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NARRATIVE 



OF THE 



EXPEDITION OF AN AMERICAN SQUADRON 



TO THE 



CHINA SEAS AND JAPAN, 

PERFORMED IN THE YEARS 1852, 1853, AND 1854, 



UNDER THE COMMAND OF 



COMMODORE M. C. PERRY, UNITED STATES NAVY, 

BY ORDER OF THE GOVERNMENT OF THE UNITED STATES. 



COMPILED FROM THE ORIGINAL NOTES AND JOURNALS OF COMMODORE 

PERRY AND HIS OFFICERS, AT HIS REQUEST AND UNDER 

HIS SUPERVISION, 

By FKANCIS L. HAWKS, D. D. LL. D. 



WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS. 




NEW YOKK : 
D. APPLETON AND COMPANY, 

346 & 348 Broadway. 

LONDON: TEUBNER & CO., 12 PATERNOSTER ROW. 

1857. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1S56, 

By D. APPLETON & CO., 

in the Okrk's OflSce of the District Court of the United States for the Southern 

District of New York. 



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PREFATORY NOTE. 



Prompted in a great degree by feelings of personal friendship 
for Commodore Perry, the compiler of the following pages yielded 
to his earnest request, enforced as it was by that of other friends, 
and consented to undertake the task of preparing this Narrative of 
the United States' Expedition to Japan. 

And here it is proper to mention, that among the expressed 
motives which induced the Commander of the Expedition to desire 
the execution of the work by other hands than his own, none 
seemed more prominent than this consideration ; that, as the facts 
here embodied were to be gathered not merely from the pages of 
his own journal, but from those also of several of his officers as 
well as from their official reports to him, he thought it better to 
confide the compilation to a disinterested third party, who might 
weave the various materials into a connected narrative of all the 
important events, uninfluenced by that partiality for his own words 
or acts, from which, owing to the infirmities of human nature 
the most honest and best of men are not always entirely exempt. 

As the sole object on the part of the Commander was to afibrd 
to his government and countrymen the most ample account he 
could of what had been done by himself, his officers, and men — as 



IV PEEFATORYNOTE. 

in tliis respect lie had nothing to conceal, as lie wished to present 
truly all of interest that had been observed either by himself or 
others, and to do justice to the deserving officers who had so effectu- 
ally sustained him in his plans for carrying out a new, delicate, and 
arduous work — he deemed it best to place in the hands of the com- 
piler, without reserve, all the materials in his possession, whether 
from his own pen, or furnished by the labor of others, and to 
request nothing more than that the preparation of the work might 
be conducted in a spirit conformable to the ends and wishes just 
expressed. 

The materials were abundant and varied. Beside the manu- 
script journal of the Commodore, in three large folios, and his 
official correspondence ; the journals of his secretary and other 
officers, the diaries of the fleet captain and flag-lieutenants, the 
official reports of gentlemen detailed for special duties, and the 
public documents connected with the Expedition, were all placed in 
the hands of the writer. Of these, the Commodore's journal and 
official correspondence form much the larger part.* 

The work to be performed was that of a compiler merely. 
With no responsibility as to the facts related, the writer believed 
his appropriate duty to be simply to weave into a connected nar- 
rative all of interest or importance that could be gathered from 
these various materials, and to present, in chronological order, the 
incidents of the Expedition. Eminently suggestive as were many 



* The Commodore, unwilling to appropriate what may belong to others, desires here to 
acknowledge the use of the journals of the Captain of the fleet, Commander Adams, of 
the flag-lieutenants, Mr. Contee and Mr. Bent, those of Purser Harris, Mr. Perry, (Commo- 
dore's secretary,) Mr. Bayard Taylor and Chaplain Jones ; the reports of Captains Abbot, 
Buchanan, and Adams, Commandants Boyle, Kelly, and Glasson, Chaplain Jones, Mr. Wil- 
liams, Chinese interpreter, and Doctors Green and Fahs ; the services of Mr. Portman, 
Dutch interpreter, and of the artists, Mr. W. Heine and Mr. E. Brown, jr. In the hydro- 
graphical department he would specially acknowledge the accurate and laborious work of 
Lieutenants W. L. Maury and S. Bent. Nor would he pass by without notice minor con- 
tributions from any under his command ; to all he would render due credit and thanks. 



PREFATORY NOTE. V 

portions of the story, the compiler felt that it was his business to 
deal with the facts only, and spare the reader the infliction of 
his reflections on them. 

The book, therefore, is but little encumbered with the writer's 
observations or conjectures on the incidents related. Where a 
momentary digression from the story does occur, the remarks it 
embodies are generally those of the Commodore himself In many 
instances, the language of the Narrative is a verbatim copy from his 
journal. Wherever it was possible thus to use his manuscript, it 
was done, as being the course most likely to avoid error. Every 
word of the work was read to the Commodore in manuscript, and 
received his correction before it went into the printer's hands ; 
every proof sheet also was read by him before it was sent back to 
the press. 

In order to expedite the preparation and publication of the work 
as much as possible, and place it at an early period in the hands of 
Congress ; as the labor was that of compilation only, the present 
writer, with the approbation of Commodore Perry, availed himself 
of the kindness of a competent literary gentleman,"* who assisted 
him in the work of comparing the various journals, documents, &c., 
arranging chronologically the incidents gathered from all sources, 
and presenting them in a connected form. Some portions of the 
story were also, in the first instance, sketched by this gentleman, 
and after undergoing the revision of the present writer, were incor- 
porated by him into the Narrative, and then submitted to the Com- 
modore for his correction and suggestions. Some of the descrip- 
tions of scenery were thus prepared, as well as portions of the Nar- 
rative relating to the two visits to Japan. By means of this val- 
uable aid, the whole story was written out in less than a twelve- 
month from the time its publication was ordered by Congress ; a 
result which would otherwise have been unattainable. The com- 
piler makes this statement, not only to acknowledge the kindness 

* Robert Tomes, Esq., M.D. 



VI PREFATORY NOTE. 

of a friend, but also to guard himself against the suspicion of being 
willing to appropriate, without recognition, the labors of another. 

As to the Narrative itself, the highest ambition of the writer 
was to tell the story, if he could, in such manner as would not only 
present a true picture, but also keep alive the interest of the 
reader ; his wish was to make a book that might furnish informa- 
tion without being wearisome. If in this he has succeeded, he has 
attained all to which he aspired. If he has not, he has only to say 
that he will feel more of regret than surprise. 

In some instances he may be thought to be needlessly minute, 
and especially in describing the pageantry of receptions, entertain- 
ments, &c. In this matter he felt obliged to consult something 
beside his own taste merely ; he was looking to the natural curiosity 
of his countrymen to know every particular of the story, and 
therefore preferred to tell too much rather than too little. Beside, 
the pageantry was often an important part of the history of the 
negotiation itself, with a people so ceremonious as the Japanese. 

Nor did the compiler hesitate to use freely the materials placed 
before him in the shape of journals, &c., even though the substance 
of some portions of them is already in the hands of the public. 
They were originally prepared for just such use as is here made of 
them ; the report was designed to teU the incidents of the whole 
story from beginning to end ; and the compiler was directed simply 
to use the materials that had been furnished him. It was not for 
him to omit facts because others had already related them. 

In but one respect did he venture to exercise any discretion. 
His duty required that he should teU all that occurred from the 
moment the Mississippi left the Capes of the Chesapeake. As, 
however, the chief interest of the Expedition was to be found in 
events that occurred in China, Lew Chew, the Bonin Islands, and 
Japan, he endeavored to make as brief as duty would permit the 
incidents of the earlier part of the outward voyage, sensible that 
but little new remained to be said in passing over a track so 
often traversed and so well known by intelligent Europeans and 



PKEFATORYNOTE. Vll 

Americans. Still lie believes lie has omitted nothing whicli his 
materials furnished, that is likely to interest the general reader. 



The Narrative here presented of the Japan Expedition has 
been prepared under my supervision and at my request, from 
materials furnished by me, and is authentic. I present it as my 
official report, and am alone responsible for the statement of facts 
it contains. 

M. C. PEEKY, Late Commander-in-chief 
of the United States Expedition to the China Seas and Japan. 



f ftor at tilt ^mtkxi of t^t 



COMMUNICATING, 



m COMPLIANCE WITH A RESOLUTION OF THE SENATE, 



REPOET OF COMMODORE M. C. PERRY, 



NAVAL EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 



January 22, 1855.— Ordered to be printed, and that 5,000 additional copies be printed ; five hundred of 

■which for the use of Commodore Perry. 

January 29, 185b.— Ordered, That 500 copies be for the use of the Navy Department 



Navy Department, August 28, 1855. 

Sir : In compliance -n-itli tlie resolution of the Senate of the United States, passed on 
the 22d January last, calling upon the Secretary of the Navy " to conamunicate to the 
Senate a copy of the report of Commodore Perry of the Naval Expedition to Japan," I have 
the honor to enclose herewith a copy of the letter of Commodore Perry to the Department 
transmitting the manuscript, &c., of said report. 

I am, sir, very respectfully. 

Your obedient servant, 

J. C. DOBBIN. 
AsBURY DiCKiNS, Esq., 

Secretary of the Senate of the United States, Washington, D. C. 



New York, A ugust 27, 1855. 

Sir : In compliance with a resolution of the United States Senate, hearing date January 
22, 1855, calling upon the Secretary of the Navy "to communicate to the Senate a copy 
of the report of Commodore Perry of the Naval Expedition to Japan, and that the same, 
with the maps, charts, and drawings, be printed," I have now the honor of transmitting the 
manuscript of said report, together with drawings, maps, charts, &c., illustrative of the same. 
With great respect I am, sir, 

Your most obedient servant, 

M. C. PERRY. 
Hon. J. C. Dobbin, 

Secretary of the Navy, Washington, D. C. 



INTRODUCTION 



IE WED in any of its aspects, the 
Empire of Japan has long pre- 
sented to the thoughtful mind an 
object of uncommon interest. 
And this interest has been greatly 
increased by the mystery with 
which, for the last two centuries, 
an exclusive policy has sought to 
surround the institutions of this 
remarkable country. The curi- 
osity of Christendom has been on 
the alert ; and the several votaries 
of various pursuits have naturally 
longed to add more to the little 
that is known of this self-isolated 
Kingdom. 

The political inquirer, for instance, has wished to study in detail the 
form of government, the administration of laws, and the domestic institu- 
tions, under which a nation systematically prohibiting intercourse with the 
rest of the world has attained to a state of civilization, refinement, and 
intelligence, the mere glimpses of which so strongly invite further investi- 
gation. 

The student of physical geography, aware how much national character- 
istics are formed or modified by peculiarities of physical structure in every 
country, would fain know more of the lands and the seas, the mountains and 
the rivers, the forests and the fields, which fall within the limits of this 
almost terra incognita. 

The naturalist asks, what is its geology, what are its flora and fauna ? 
The navigator seeks to find out its rocks and shoals, its winds and cur- 
rents, its coasts and harbors. 




4 INTRODUCTION. 

The man of commerce asks to be told of its products and its trade, 
its skill in manufactures, the commodities it needs, and the returns it can 
supply. 

The ethnologist is curious to pry into the physical appearance of its 
inhabitants ; to dig, if possible, from its language the fossil remains of long 
buried history ; and in the afl&liation of its people to supply, perchance, a 
gap in the story of man's early wanderings over the globe. 

The scholar asks to be introduced to its literature that he may contem- 
plate in historians, poets, and dramatists, (for Japan has them all,) a picture 
of the national mind. 

The Christian desires to know the varied phases of their superstition and 
idolatry ; and longs for the dawn of that day when a purer faith and more 
enlightened worship shall bring them within the circle of Christendom. 

Amid such a diversity of pursuits as we have enumerated, a common 
interest unites all in a common sympathy ; and hence, the divine and the 
philosopher, the navigator and the naturalist, the man of business and the 
man of letters, have alike joined in a desire for the thorough exploration of 
a field at once so extensive and so inviting. 

With so much to allure, it is not at all wonderful that the attempt to 
explore should have been repeatedly made. Scarce a maritime nation in the 
civilized world has been wanting in effort. The Portuguese, Spaniards, 
Dutch, English, French, and Russians, have each in turn, sought to establish 
commercial relations with Japan. The Portuguese and English have both 
so far succeeded, that, but for themselves, they might permanently have re- 
tained their positions. The first were expelled ; the latter voluntarily aban- 
doned the field. The Dutch alone, of all Christian nations, were allowed to 
remain for purposes of traffic, and they purchased the privilege at the price 
of national humiliation and personal imprisonment, for which all the profits 
of gainful barter off*er but an inadequate compensation. 

Limited, however, as have been their sources of information, it is to the 
Dutch chiefly that the world, until within a very recent period, has been in- 
debted for the knowledge it has had of the Japanese. Nor is that know- 
ledge quite as circumscribed as has sometimes been supposed. Ksempfer, 
Thunberg, Titsingh, Doeff, Fischer, Meylan, Siebold, and others, have cer- 
tainly told us something about Japan. But they could not tell us all it is 
desirable to know. All were connected with the factory at Dezima, and 
were watched, of course, with suspicious jealousy. Their only opportunities 
for seeing anything beyond the town of Nagasaki were afibrded at their 
periodical visits to the court ; and Kaempfer, the first in the list, has so fully 
related all that an European could learn from this source, that very little 
has been added to our stock of knowledge by his successors, with the single 
exception of Siebold. He has collected new facts and materials, and the 
result of his observations and researches has been given to the world in his 



INTKODUCTIOK. O 

" Nippon, Archiv sur Beschreibung von Japan,''^ (Nippon, an Archive 
toward the Description of Japan.) While, therefore, it is not quite correct 
to say that the civilized world knows nothing of Japan, it may truly be 
asserted that what is known is very much less than what is unknown. 

Notwithstanding, however, the national efforts at exploration to which 
we have alluded, it was reserved for our own, the youngest of the nations, to 
break down at last the barriers with which this singular people had sur- 
rounded themselves ; and to be the first, in modern times, to establish with 
them a treaty of friendship and trade which (already copied as far as was 
possible by other governments) is to form, as we hope, the initiatory step in 
the introduction of Japan into the circle of commercial nations. 

May we not be permitted here to add that it seems not altogether inap- 
propriate that the United States should be the instrument of breaking down 
these barriers, and of opening Japan to the rest of the world. 

When, in 1295, Marco Polo returned to Venice from his long sojourn in 
Asia, he spake to Europeans, among other marvels which shocked their 
credulity, but which have since been fully verified, of the existence of a 
large island off the coast of Cathay, (China,) which he called Zipangu. 
That island is the modern Nippon of the Japanese Kingdom. He told, also, 
the story of the indomitable courage of the people of Zipangu, and related 
how they had successively resisted the armies of the powerful Kublai Khan, 
the conquerors, at that day, of all Asia, and the terror of Europe. He laid 
before them the maps which he had made and brought home, with an inscrip- 
tion written upon the shore-line of the Yellow sea: " There is a great island 
to the easty Years rolled on; Marco Polo's written story and maps had 
found their way to Genoa, and probably had been forgotten. At length, in 
the sixteenth century, they fell into the hands of a man who did not cast 
them idly by ; that man was Christopher Columbus, whose strong mind was 
then travelling to the overruling conviction of his life that there must be, to 
the westward of Europe, great bodies of land at that time utterly unknown. 
It was Marco Polo's map, and his statements concerning Zipangu particu- 
larly, which confirmed his conjectures ; and when he sailed, it was Zipangu, 
or, as the Italian manuscript of Marco Polo had it, Cipango, on which he 
hoped and expected to find the termination of his voyage. Accordingly, 
(as we know,) when he landed on Cuba he believed that he had reached the 
goal of his long cherished hopes. He knew not that a continent barred his 
way between Europe and Zipangu ; nor that still further westward, beyond 
that continent a mighty ocean rolled its waters, which must be traversed 
before Zipangu could be reached. 

But though not destined himself to find and open Japan to Christendom, 
it has so happened, in the order of Providence, that on the continent which 
he discovered, and which barred his way to the land he sought, has grown 
up a nation which has performed a part of his contemplated work, and ful- 



b INTRODUCTION. 

filled a portion, at least, of the plan which lured him westward ; a nation 
which, if it did not discover Zipangu, has, we trust, been the instrument of 
bringing it into full and free communication with the rest of the world; a 
nation which has, as it were, taken the end of the thread which, on the 
shores of America, broke in the hands of Columbus, and fastening it again 
to the ball of destiny, has rolled it onward until, as it has unwound itself, it 
has led the native and civilized inhabitants of the land discovered by the 
great G-enoese to plant their feet on the far distant region of his search, and 
thus fulfil his wish to bring Zipangu within the influence of European civi- 
lization. 

It is the story of the American entrance in Japan that we propose to 
relate ; and it is hoped it will aid in the better understanding of the narra- 
tive, as well as show what additions, if any, have been made to our previous 
knowledge, briefly to present, in a rapid sketch, the outlines of such infor- 
mation as the world possessed before the American expedition left our shores. 
On this work we now enter. 



SECTION I. 



There can be no doubt that Japan was unknown to the G-reeks and 
Romans, and that it was first brought to the knowledge of the European 
world by the celebrated traveller, Marco Polo. His family was Venetian, 
and devoted to commercial pursuits. In the year 1275, at the age of 
eighteen, he accompanied his father and uncle into Asia on mercantile busi- 
ness ; and there, mastering the languages of Tartary, on the return of his 
relatives to Europe, he remained, and entered into the service of Kublai 
Khan, the then reigning monarch. In this situation he continued for seven- 
teen years. Possessed of a good mind, he was a close observer of what he 
saw around him, and rendered the most important services, both military 
and diplomatic, to the monarch, with whom he became not merely a favor- 
ite, but in some degree a necessity. At length, in 1295, after an absence 
of some twenty years, he returned to Venice, and was the first European 
traveller who made known the existence of Japan to the inhabitants of the 
west. He had not visited it in person, (as he is careful to state,) but he had 
traversed the greater part of China, and had there heard what he related 
concerning Japan. We may remark, in passing, that his statements of what 
he had seen and heard so far surpassed the experience and knowledge of his 
countrymen that he shared the fate of some modern travellers, and was not 



INTRODUCTION. 7 

believed. Nothing, however, is more sure than that modern research has 
impressed with the character of truth all that he related on his personal ob- 
servation, and much of that which he gathered from the statements of others. 
He, as we have already said, called Japan Zipangu ; it was the name which 
he had heard in China. The Japanese themselves call their country Dai 
Nippon^ which means " Great Nippon." As to the origin of the latter word, 
it is a compound of two others ; nitsu, " the sun," audpon or f on, " origin;" 
these, according to the Japanese rule of combination, become Nippon or 
Nifon, signifying " origin of the sun ; " in other words, the East. In the 
Chinese language, Nippon, by the usual change of pronunciation, becomes 
Jih-pun, to which Koue is added, meaning " country " or " Kingdom." The 
whole Chinese word, Jih-pun-houe, therefore, is, in English, " Kingdom of 
the origin of the sun," or "Eastern Kingdom." The reader will readily 
perceive how, on the lips of an European, the name would become Zi-pan- 
gu. We thus have the derivation, Nippon, Jih-pun, Japan. 

As to the extent of the Kingdom : it consists of a great number of 
islands, said to be 3,850, lying off the eastern coast of Asia, and spread over 
that part of the ocean which extends from the 129th to the 146th degree of 
east longitude from Greenwich, and is between the 31st and 46th degrees of 
north latitude. The chain to which they belong may be traced on the map 
from the Loo-Choo islands to the southern extremity of Kamtschatka, and 
from this latter peninsula, through the Kurile islands, to the promontory of 
Alaska, on our own continent. They are in the line of that immense circle 
of volcanic development which surrounds the shores of the Pacific from 
Tierra del Fuego around to the Moluccas. 

The Kingdom is divided into Japan proper and the dependent islands. 
The first-named division consists of the three large islands, Kiu-siu, Sitkokf, 
and Nippon, and the whole Empire contains about 160,000 square miles. 
Of many of the islands we know nothing. Their coasts are so difficult of 
access, and shallow seas and channels, with sunken rocks and dangerous 
whirlpools, added to winds as variable as they are violent, have interposed 
most serious obstacles to nautical exploration, so that we have yet much to 
learn of the navigation of the waters around the islands of Japan. 

Those of which we have as yet most information are Kiu-siu, Nippon, 
and Yesso, or Jesso. On the first of these is the town of Nagasaki, and 
this is the port to which the Dutch have been most rigorously confined, in 
all their commercial transactions, for two hundred years. Indeed, they have 
not been permitted to live within the town itself, but have been literally 
imprisoned on a very small island in the harbor, called Dezima, where they 
have been most closely watched, and many rigid restrictions have been 
imposed on their intercourse with the people. Under certain circumstances, 
they have been at times permitted to go into the town, but not to remain for 
any long period, nor have they ever been allowed to explore the island. 



8 INTKODUCTION. 

Their opportunities, therefore, except in the case of Siebold, have been very 
limited for acquiring, from personal observation, a knowledge of anything 
on the island of Kiu-siu beyond what they could see from their prison. 

As to Nippon, on which is Yeddo, the capital of the kingdom, they have 
had the opportunity of seeing more. This has resulted from the fact that 
periodical visits, with presents, have been made to the Emperor at the capi- 
tal by the chief Dutch commissioner at the factory on Dezima ; and on these 
visits he has been accompanied by his physician and a small number of his 
subordinate officers. It is, therefore, to the chief commissioners and their 
medical attendants that we Lave been indebted for all we have beeru told 
since the establishment of commercial relations with the Dutch. Titsingh, 
DoefF, Fischer, Meylan, were all chiefs of the factory, while Ksempfer, Thun- 
berg and Siebold have all been the physicians. These visits were formerly 
annual, latterly they have been less frequent, and a more jealous surveillance 
has been exercised over the European travellers. Still they have evaded 
restrictions as far as possible, have seen all they could, and told all they saw. 
But they were, of necessity, obliged to gather much of what they relate 
from the information of the Japanese ; how far it is to be considered as in 
all respects accurate neither they nor we are able to say. Yet the Dutch 
residents undoubtedly knew for themselves more about the island of Nippon 
than they did concerning Kiu-siu, in one of the harbors of which was their 
prison. 

As to Yesso, or Jesso, it is confessedly very imperfectly known. One 
of its ports is Matsmai, and here Captain Golownin, of the Russian navy, 
was kept as a prisoner for two years. In an effort which he made to escape, 
he wandered over a part of the island ; but as he was not seeking on this 
excursion materials for description, nor studying at his leisure the habits of 
the people, his statements are, as might be expected, altogether unsatisfac- 
tory, and yet we have none better from an European eye-witness. Kaempfer, 
Thunberg, and Siebold are our most valuable sources of information since 
the days of the Dutch commerce. 

At an earlier period, and before Japanese jealousy of foreign influence 
had prompted them to adopt their system of exclusion, the opportunity was 
far more favorable for the acquisition of information by the personal obser- 
vation of strangers. The Portuguese missionaries and some early English 
navigators, therefore, afford us on some points a knowledge such as no 
European during the last two hundred years could possibly have procured. 

Of the physical aspect of these principal islands former writers give 
different accounts. Thunberg represents them as composed of a succession 
of mountains, hills, and valleys, while Kaempfer says that he travelled over 
several plains of considerable exent. The country is undoubtedly very hilly, 
and in general the hills come down near to the seashore, leaving but narrow 
strips of land between the water and their bases ; it is, however, not impro- 



INTRODUCTION. ^ 

bable that level plains of some extent may be found in the interior. The 
hills, however, are not sterile; and covered, as most of them seem to be, 
with the fruits of cultivation up to their summits, bear witness alike to the 
numbers and industry of the population. Mountains, however, are to be 
found as well as hills, nor is it surprising that some of them should be 
volcanic. 

Westward of the bay of Yeddo rises to the height of some twelve 
thousand feet the Fudsi Jamma, with its summit whitened by perpetual 
snow ; it was once an active volcano. The northern part of Nippon also is 
known to be traversed by a chain of mountains, from which rise several 
isolated peaks, the craters, in some instances, of extinct volcanoes, while 
others, still burning, are to be seen on the islands scattered in the gulfs of 
Corea and Yeddo. 

In such a country the rivers cannot probably be long ; while the rapidity 
of their currents indicates that their sources must be considerably elevated. 
It is said that over some of them no bridges can be built, as none would 
resist the force of the stream fed by the waters of the mountain torrents. 
Some of the rivers, however, are navigable by small boats for several miles 
from the sea into the interior. The Japanese, from the nature and position 
of their country, ought to be a maritime people ; they can have but few 
natural facilities for inland trade. Their ingenuity and industry have, 
however, been taxed to open modes of communication with the interior; 
roads and bridges have been constructed, and in some instances canals have 
been made to unite their rivers and lakes. 

Of the climate of Japan it is not possible to speak with much certainty. 
In the southern part of the Kingdom it is said to be not unlike that of 
England. Some winters are remarkably mild, without any frost or snow, 
though generally such is not the case ; when however these occur, they last 
but for a few days. The heat in summer is said to average 98° of Fahren- 
heit at Nagasaki. This, which would otherwise be excessive, is much 
moderated by the breeze which, in the day time, blows from the south, and 
at night from the east. There is what the Japanese call satJcasi, or the 
rainy season, in June and July ; by this, however, it is only meant that the 
rains are then most abundant ; for, in point of fact, they are frequent all the 
year round, and the weather appears to be variable. No part of the ocean 
is subject to heavier gales than the sea around Japan, and the hurricanes 
are terrific ; fogs also are, as might be expected, very prevalent ; thunder 
storms are common, and earthquakes have more than once destroyed a great 
part of the most populous towns. Kempfer remarked, also, that water-spouts 
were of very frequent occurrence in the seas around Japan. Yet, notwith- 
standing all these things, the country cannot, we think, be deemed insalubrious; 
for the Japanese are in general a healthful people, and the country is very 
thickly inhabited. 



10 INTRODUCTION. 

SECTION II. 

ORIGIN OF THE JAPANESE PEOPLE. 

An opinion lias been expressed by several writers that Japan was 
colonized by the Chinese. Sucb an opinion, founded on very superficial 
observation, was advanced long before comparative philology had been 
resorted to by the learned, as one of the safest and best tests of truth in 
tracing the relationship of nations. But since the application of this test, 
no one, competent to speak instructively on the subject, has ventured to 
deduce the Japanese from a Chinese origin. The structure of the languages 
of the two people is essentially different. It is true that certain Chinese 
words, the names of objects, introduced by the Chinese, may be heard from 
the lips of a Japanese, modified however in the pronunciation ; it is also true 
that the Chinese dialect of the Mandarins forms a species of universal 
language among the learned, a sort of latin in the extreme east that is 
understood by the highly educated, not only in China, but in Corea, at 
Tonquin, and other parts, and also in Japan; but so little is the afl&nity 
between the primitive language of Japan and that of China, that the 
common people of the two countries, neighbors as they are, cannot under- 
stand each other without the aid of an interpreter. 

Probably those Europeans who too hastily adopted in former times the 
conclusion of a Chinese origin for the Japanese, may, in their ignorance of 
the languages, have been misled by observing among the Japanese the 
occasional use of the idiographic cypher of the Chinese in some of the 
Japanese writings. It was introduced into Japan A. D, 290, but the Japa- 
nese have an alphabet, or rather a syllabarium of their own, constructed on 
a principle entirely different from the Chinese idiograph. Each of these 
Chinese characters is in Japan pronounced in two distinct manners. The 
one, as among the Chinese with a slight variation in the Japanese, pronunci- 
ation. This idiom is called Koye, which means simply " a Chinese sound 
or word / " the other mode of pronouncing is Japanese, and is called Yomi, 
which signifies " interj)retation ; " the meaning of the Koye word. An ex- 
ample will illustrate. The words (according to Japanese pronunciation) tin^ 
chi, nin, all Chinese, are Koye, and mean repectively heaven, earth, man : 
the words ame, tsoutsi, fito, are the Yomi (pure Japanese) of those Koye 
words, and have, in the proper language of Japan, the same meaning as the 
three Chinese words above named. 

Hence, among the Japanese, there are three dialects ; the first is pure 
Yomi, without any admixture of the Koye. This is the primitive language 
of the country, and is at this day used in poetry and works of light litera- 



INTRODUCTION. 11 

ture. The second is pure Koye^ and is employed by the bonzes in their re- 
ligious books. 

The third is a mixture of the two, and constitutes the common language 
of the Empire. 

But the construction of sentences in the Chinese and Japanese, as to the 
collocation of words, is entirely different, as is also the pronunciation by a 
Chinaman and a native of Japan. That of the last is neat, articulate, dis- 
tinct, and rarely is there heard a syllable composed of more than two or 
three letters of our alphabet ; while the speech of the former is little better 
than a confused sing-song monotone, unpleasant to the ear, in which con- 
stantly occurs a disagreeable crowding together of consonants. If an 
analysis of the sounds of our letters be made, a Chinese pronounces our 
aspirate H very plainly, while a Japanese never sounds it, but invariably 
substitutes for it F ; while, on the other hand, our K and D, which are 
sounded by a Japanese with a distinctness equal to our own, always become 
L in the mouth of the Chinese. But without dwelling longer on this point, 
it is sufficient to say that an examination of grammatical structure con- 
clusively settles, on the testimony of language, that the original inhabitants 
of Japan were not Chinese. 

But the question still remains to be answered, " whence came the primi- 
tive occupants of Japan ? " On this subject a diversity of opinion is to be 
found. KcTempfer brings them from the plains of Shinar, at the dispersion. 
He supposes them to have passed from Mesopotamia to the shores of the 
Caspian, thence through the valleys of the Yenisi, Silinga, and parallel 
rivers to the lake of Argueen ; then following the river of that name, which 
arises from the lake, he thinks they reached the Amoor, following the valley 
of which they would find themselves in the then uninhabited peninsula of 
Corea, on the eastern shore of Asia. The passage thence to Japan, espe- 
cially in the summer season, would not be difficult. He supposes that this 
migration occupied a long time ; that they stopped when they found a 
pleasant region, and then resumed their march when they were pressed on 
their rear, or annoyed by other nomadic tribes. It was easy for them to 
make a home wherever they could find water and pasture for their flocks and 
herds. From the ^rity of the primitive language of Japan, (the intermix- 
ture of Chinese words is within the historic period and easily accounted for,) 
he supposes that the original stock could not, in its migration, have remained 
very long in any one inhabited place, or mingled much with any people then 
existing, of whose language we at this day have any knowledge; otherwise 
words from such language would have been found incorporated in the primi- 
tive Japanese tongue. 

This, if not satisfactory, is at least ingenious. Modern ethnologists, 
however, turn to language as the best evidence of origin. Dr. Pickering, of 
the United States exploring expedition, seems disposed, from an observation 



12 INTRODUCTION. 

of some Japanese whom he encountered at the Hawaiian islands, to assign to 
them a Malay origin. Others, judging from language, consider them of the 
Mongol stock. Very close affinities cannot probably be found between the 
Japanese and any other Asiatic language ; but in its grammatical structure 
the Yomi of Japan is by some thought to be most analogous to the languages 
of the Tartar family. Siebold found, as he supposed, analogies between it 
and the idioms of ihe Coreans, and the Kurilians, who occupy the islands of 
Jesso and Tarakai or Karafto. He has described the coast of Tartary 
opposite to this last island, (called improperly by Europeans Sakhalian,) and 
thinks he finds a resemblance in customs ; but Klaproth has shown that the 
language of the Tartary coast (Sandan) is a Tungusian dialect, and says 
that the language of Japan bears no decided marks of affinity either with it or 
with any other of the idioms named by Siebold. It is clearly not Tungusian. 
Klaproth's vocabularies of some of the idioms of Asia, particularly of the 
Mongolian, the Finnish, and some Indian dialects, show a very considerable 
number of simple and original words which belong also to the Japanese. In 
the present state of our information, the more commonly received opinion seems 
to be that the Japanese are of the Tartar family. But they certainly do not 
all have the Tartar complexion or physiognomy. The common people, accord- 
ing to Thunberg, are of a yellowish color all over, sometimes bordering on 
brown and sometimes on white. The laboring classes, who in summer expose 
the upper parts of their bodies, are always brown. Their eyes are not round, 
but oblong, small, and sunk deep in the head. In color they are generally 
dark brown or rather black, and the eyelids form in the great angle of the 
eye a deep furrow, which gives them the appearance of being sharp or keen 
sighted. Their heads are large and their necks short, their hair black, thick, 
and from their use of oil, glossy. Their noses, although not flat, are yet 
rather thick and short. 

The inhabitants of the coast of Kiu-siu, according to Siebold, differ in 
physical aspect, as well as in other respects, from those in the interior of the 
island. Their hair is most frequently black, in some cases crisped, the facial 
angle is strongly marked, the lips puffed, the nose small, slightly aquiline and 
depressed at the root. In the interior the people, mostly agriculturists, are 
a larger race, with broad and flattened countenances, proftiinent cheek bones, 
large space between the inner angles of the eyes, broad and very flat noses, 
with large mouths and a reddish brown skin. 

But beside these, Thunberg also tells us that the descendants of the eldest 
and noblest families, of the prirces and lords of the Empire, are somewhat 
majestic in their shape and countenance, being more like Europeans, and 
that ladies of distinction, who seldom go out into the open air without being 
covered, are perfectly white. Siebold also, speaking of the inhabitants of 
Kiu-siu, informs us that " the women who protected themselves from the in- 



INTRODUCTION. 13 

fluences of the atmosphere have generally a fine and white skin, and the 
cheeks of the young girls display a blooming carnation." 

These facts, as Dr. Latham has said, do not necessarily involve the as- 
sumption of a double source of population, while, at the same time, such a 
second source is not an ethnological improbability. The darker race, he in- 
timates, may have come from Formosa. 



SECTION III. 



GOVERNMENT. 



Japat^ presents the singular feature of having two Emperors at the same 
time, the one secular, the other ecclesiastical ; but it is a mistake to suppose 
that this duplicate sovereignty was established from the beginning, as one of 
the original elements of her civil polity ; it has resulted from historical 
events that occurred long after Japan had a system of Government. The 
Japanese, like many other people, claim for their nation an immense anti- 
quity ; but the authentic history of the Kingdom commences with Zin-mu- 
ten-woo, (whose name signifies " the divine conqueror,") about the year 660 
B. C. Klaproth thinks he was a Chinese warrior and invader ; be this how- 
ever as it may, he conquered Nippon, and built a temple palace, dedicated to 
the sun-goddess, and properly called a dairi ; his own appropriate title was 
Mikado, though the two terms are frequently confounded by European 
writers. He was the founder of the sovereignty of the MikadoSy and from 
him, even to this day, the Mikados descend. 

He was sole sovereign, both secular and spiritual, and claimed to rule by 
divine right. His successors, asserting the same right, added to it that of 
inheritance also, and their government was a despotism. By degrees these 
monarchs ceased to lead their own armies, and entrusted the military com- 
mand to sons and kinsmen, though the supreme power still was theirs. 
This power, however, appears gradually to have been weakened by a custom 
which prevailed, of abdication by the Mikados, at so early an age, that the 
sovereignty descended upon their sons while they were yet children, the ab- 
dicating monarch frequently governing for the young king. The cause of 
these abdications was the desire to escape from the grievous burden of 
monotonous ceremonies, and complete isolation from intercourse without, 
which made the occupant of the throne little better than a royal prisoner. 

At length it happened that the reigning Mikado, who had married the 
daughter of a powerful prince, abdicated in favor of his son, a child three 
years old, while the regency passed into the hands of the grandfather of the 
infant monarch. The regent placed the abdicated monarch in confinement 



14 INTRODUCTION. 

and this produced a civil war. Yoritomo, one of the most distinguished 
characters in Japanese history, espoused the cause of the imprisoned king, 
and after a war of several years was triumphant, when he released the 
captive and made him regent. But his regency conferred a nominal 
authority only ; the real power resided in the hands of Yoritomo, who was 
created Sio i dai Ziogoon, or "generalissimo fighting against the barbarians." 
Upon the death of the ex-Mikado, Yoritomo, as lieutenant of the sovereign, 
virtually ruled for twenty years ; and when he died, his title and authority 
devolved upon his son. This was the commencement of the power of the 
Ziogoons, or temporal sovereigns. 

Time contributed to strengthen it under the successive reigns of infant 
Mikados. until it became recognized as hereditary. But, though a very im- 
portant, and indeed dangerous power, was thus vested in the Ziogoons, yet 
the Mikado was looked on as possessing the royal authority, and to him it 
belonged to appoint the Ziogoon, who was, in truth, vice regent, but did 
not openly aspire to coequal rights of sovereignty. 

This condition of things remained until the latter half of the sixteenth 
century. The Emperor (Mikado) was an autocrat who had a sovereign 
deputy, [Ziogoon,) the efficient and active ruler. During this long period, 
however, the power of the Ziogoons was silently and imperceptibly increas- 
ing ; until, at last, that happened which it requires but little sagacity to 
perceive could not but be, in the end, the unavoidable result. Men invested 
with power are more apt to encourage its growth than to keep it stationary 
or diminish it ; more especially when those whose interest it is to check 
their ambition are known to be imbecile. 

It was about the middle of the sixteenth century that two brothers, de- 
scendants from Yoritomo, became rivals for the office of Ziogoon. The 
princes of the Empire took part with the one or the other, domestic strife 
raged, and the end of the contest was the death of both the rival brothers. 
The mightiest prince of that day was the prince of Owari, who, on the 
death of the brothers, immediately set up for himself as Ziogoon. One of 
the most sagacious as well as the bravest of his adherents was an obscure 
man named Hide-yosi or Fide-yosi. His station was so lowly that, even in 
his own times, his parentage was matter of doubt ; but his zeal and talents 
commended him to the notice of his master, and he became the trusted 
friend and confidential adviser of the prince of Owari, who, by his aid, 
succeeded in being appointed Ziogoon. Men's minds had been wrought to 
such excitement by the civil strife, that when the prince triumphed over his 
opponents, the reigning Mikado did not dare to breast popular opinion, and 
therefore conferred on him the office. The new Ziogoon, of course, re- 
warded his faithful ally, and conferred on Fide-yosi a high military appoint- 
ment. Presently, the Prince of Owari was murdered by one who usurped 
his office ; he, in his turn, shared a like fiite ; and now the hour had come 



INTRODUCTION. 15 

for Fide-yosi. When all was in confusion, he seized upon the office for him- 
self; and so well known were his talents and power, that the frightened 
Mikado^ at once, without hesitation, approved and confirmed him in the 
office, and he took the name of Tayko-sama, (the Lord Tayko.) With his 
title thus- legitimated, in the confidence of his abilities, he trusted to him- 
self for the rest, and has left behind him a name among the most celebrated 
in the history of Japan. 

He was a statesman and a soldier, and displayed on the throne all the 
energy and ability which had contributed to place him there. He put an 
end at once to the civil commotions, by giving to the opposing princes of the 
Empire work to do in the invasion and conquest of Corea. He was about 
marching to subdue China, when death arrested him, in the year 1598, at 
the age of sixty-three. The Japanese, to this day, consider him as one of 
the ablest men their country has produced. During his reign he made large 
progress in the work of reducing the sovereignty of the Mikado almost to a 
shadow ; and inthralling him by more and more burdensome ceremonials, 
and a most rigorous seclusion, all under the seemingly loyal pretext of pro- 
found deference and respect for his heaven-born authority, he quietly left 
him to "wield a barren sceptre." 

Tayko-sama left an only son, six years old. To secure him in the suc- 
cession, his father on his death bed, caused him to marry the granddaughter 
of one of his own most particular friends and counsellors, lyeyas, prince of 
Micava, from whom he obtained a most solemn promise that when the 
boy should have attained his fifteenth year he would have him recognized 
as Ziogoon. 

lyeyas proved unfaithful, became Ziogoon himself, and his descendants 
to this day hold the office, while a veil of mystery covers up the fate of the 
wronged son of Tayko. As to the Mikado, lyeyas pursued the policy of 
his predecessor, and depriving him even of the little power which Tayko had 
left to him in temporals, he reduced the once absolute autocrasy which he 
represented to a mere ecclesiastical supremacy, and brought him down to 
the utter helplessness and dependence which at this day mark his condition. 
And this is, in brief, the history of events by which Japan has come to pre- 
sent that singular and unique feature in government of one empire simul- 
taneously under two sovereigns. 

The residence of the Mikado is at Miako ; that of the Ziogoon is at 
Yeddo ; each is surrounded with imperial splendor ; the one is monarch de 
jure^ the other is Emperor de facto. But however absolute may have beea 
the usurped authority of the Ziogoon in the beginning, it has been subse- 
quently very much modified ; and certain it is that at this day the rule of 
the Ziogoon is by no means arbitrary. He cannot do just what he pleases. 
The laws of the Empire reach him as they do the meanest subject. These 
laws are unalterable, and are exceedingly minute in detail, controlling al- 



16 INTRODUCTION. 

most every action of life. The Emperors, both spiritual and secular, are 
just as much enthralled by them as the humblest man in the Kingdom. In 
times of usurpation or political trouble they may, in some few instances, have 
been set at naught, but these are exceptional cases. 

There are two prominent features in the Japanese system of govern- 
ment ; the one elemental, the other practical ; and the two serving as the 
bases of almost everything else in their polity. The first is feudalism, or 
something very similar to it ; and the second, exhibited in the practical ad- 
ministration of the government, is a system of checks and balances, founded 
on an all-pervading secret espionage, ramifying through all classes of society, 
from the highest to the lowest. 

To explain this we must briefly advert to the several grades of society. 
We have already spoken of the two Emperors. The Mikado is supreme in 
rank and nominally recognized as such ; but he has not a particle of political 
power ; is not allowed to have troops, and is literally, from birth to death, 
shut up at Miako, in his little principality of Kioto ; with the revenues of 
which and the rich presents sent him by the Ziogoon, he must be content. 
Even in his own principality he is governed for, as an independent prince, 
by some grandee of his court, so that never lived there sovereign with less 
of sovereign attributes allowed him. But for the tenacity with which the 
Japanese cling to their ancient usages and laws, the Mihados would, doubt- 
less, have long since ceased to form a part of the cumbrous and complicated 
machinery of government. Formerly it belonged to them to name or ap- 
point the Ziogoon; they may, indeed, still nominally have this power; but 
it is without any real value, as the office of Ziogoon has for a long time been 
hereditary. 

But politically insignificant as the Mikado is, he is venerated with a 
respect little, if at all, inferior to that rendered to the gods themselves. 
Living in mysterious, though, for the most part, indolent seclusion, he is 
venerated because he is inaccessible ; and is, in truth, a prisoner who must 
find, if he find at all, solace for his confinement in the golden chains and 
ornamental prison-house of his captivity. No wonder that the abdication of 
a Mikado is common in Japanese history. As to the Ziogoon^ he commands 
the revenues of the country, has at his disposal an army, and is anything 
but a prisoner. Once in seven years he makes a visit, surrounded with 
royal pomp, to the court of his brother sovereign, whom he takes care to 
keep, at all times, under the surveillance of unsuspected secret spies. He 
sends, too, in the intervals between his visits, embassies with rich presents 
to the shadow king of the holy court, and receives in turn what he probably 
deems a valueless bundle of blessings and prayers. 

The hereditary classes in society are said to be eight in number ; and, 
except under very peculiar circumstances, no one can leave, through life, the 
class in which he was born without a forfeiture of respectability. 



INTRODUCTION. 17 

CIo.ss I. These are the hereditary vassal princes of the Empire. 

Class II. These are hereditary nobility, below the rank of princes. 
They hold their lands as fiefs, subject to knight service or the rendition of 
military service to some one of the hereditary princes. If they belong to 
one of the imperial cities, their military service is due directly to the Ziogoon 
himself The number of armed vassals required of them is regulated by the 
extent of their respective domains. These hereditary nobles have generally 
sub-vassals on their lands, who are bound to furnish their several quotas of 
fighting men. Out of this class, governors of provinces, generals, and officers 
of State are selected. 

Class III. This includes all the priests of the Kingdom — seemingly, 
those of the ancient religion of Japan, Sintoo, as well as of Buddhism. 

Class IV. This is composed of the vassal soldiers, furnished by the no- 
bility of Class II 

These four classes are the higher orders of Japanese society, and enjoy 
certain privileges of dress. They carry two swords, and wear a species of 
loose petticoat trowsers, which none of lower rank dare to put on. 

Class V. These constitute the higher portion of the middle classes, such 
as medical men, government clerks, and other professional men and em- 
ployes. 

Class VI Merchants and shopkeepers, who rank low in Japan, no matter 
what may be their wealth. Any one of the classes above this would be 
disgraced for ever should he engage in any trade or traffic. The richest men 
in the Empire belong to this class ; and yet they are not permitted to ex- 
pend their money in a luxurious or ostentatious style of living. Sumptuary 
laws impose restraints which they dare not violate. They are not allowed to 
wear even the single sword, unless they purchase the privilege, by becoming 
the menial followers of some great lord, at the price of a considerable sum of 
money. 

Class VII This is composed of retail dealers, little shopkeepers, ped- 
lars, mechanics, and artisans of all descriptions, save one, to be mentioned 
presently. Painters and other artists belong to this class. 

Class VIII This consists of sailors, fishermen, peasants, and agricultu- 
ral and day laborers of all kinds. The peasants seem to be a species of 
serfs, attached to the soil, like the ancient villein of feudal times, and belong 
to the land-owner. Sometimes the land is hired, and worked " on shares," 
the agriculturist paying the proprietor a certain proportion of the crops. 

The exception alluded to among mechanics, in Class VII, is one which 
is supposed to have originated in one of the superstitions of the Sintoo re- 
ligion, which tabooed all who had defiled themselves by coming in contact 
with a dead body. Whether this be the origin of the exception, we know 
not; but the fact is well established, that the tanners, curriers, leather 
dressers, and, in short, every one in any way connected with the making or 
2 



18 INTEODUCTION. 

vending of leather is placed under ban or interdict. Those of this pro- 
scribed class cannot dwell in the towns or villages that are occupied by the 
other classes ; they are not even numbered in the census of the population. 
They dare not enter an inn, tea-house, or any public place of entertainment. 
If they are travelling, and want food or drink, they must wait outside of 
the wall of the house, and there be served in their own bowl or platter ; for 
no Japanese, not of their own class, would ever touch or use the vessel out 
of which they had taken food. Out of this class come the public execution- 
ers and gaolers throughout the Empire. In short, they are shunned like the 
leper of old. 

Before we proceed to speak of the singular system by which these va- 
rious classes are governed, it is proper to premise that originally the King- 
dom was sub-divided into sixty-six or sixty-eight principalities. These had 
been previously independent kingdoms, and were continued, as principalities, 
under the rule of their respective princes, subject, however, to a forfeiture 
of the rights of the governing family, in case of rebellion or treason. This 
penalty of forfeiture was incurred by many of the reigning princes, and ad- 
vantage was taken of the circumstance, as often as it occurred, to split the 
forfeited principalities into fragments ; so that, instead of the original num- 
ber, there are now no less than six hundred and four distinct administrations, 
including therein principalities, lordships, imperial provinces and imperial 
towns, of which last the Ziogoon himself is the ruling head. 

1. There is under the Emperor [Ziogoon)^ a grand council of state, 
consisting of thirteen, which governs in the Emperor's name. Of these 
thirteen, five councillors are taken from the first class we have named, the 
hereditary princes and vassals of the Empire ; the remaining eight are taken 
from the second class, the old nobility, below the rank of princes. There 
seems to be among these a head councillor of state, whose powers and 
functions are not unlike those of a grand vizier in Turkey. He is called 
" Grovernor of the Empire," and all the other councillors are subordinate to 
him. He decides upon all affairs of moment ; has the universal appointing 
power ; receives returns from all the authorities of the Empire ; may, on 
appeal, sanction or reverse every sentence of death passed ; and, in short, 
acts for the lay Emperor in all these and some other exercises of sove- 
reignty. To this grand council, too, belongs the very important power of 
dethroning the Ziogoon. Important resolutions of the council are always 
laid before the Emperor, who generally assents without delay or investi- 
gation. Should he, however, dissent, a mode of proceeding is pursued, 
which we will describe presently. It is doubtful whether all these high 
offices are not hereditary ; and, under these, are — 

2. Inferior state functionaries, in regular and interminable gradation, 
consisting of lords, guardians of the temples, commissioners of foreign affairs, 
governors, ministers of police, superintendents of agriculture, &c. No 



INTRODUCTION. 19 

relative of tlie spiritual sovereign, however, is ever put into any of these 
offices. 

3. The vassal princes still govern the principalities, or such fragments 
of them as may be left to them, with an outward show of their former 
sovereignty ; but it is show only. The princes themselves can do nothing 
without the consent of the Ziogoon and council. And here we find in full 
development that system of espionage of which we have spoken. The prince 
himself, beside being surrounded with a multitude of private spies, unknown 
to him, who watch his domestic as well as public business and doings, has 
also two official spies appointed by the chief of the grand council, and these, 
in truth, conduct the administration of the principality. These are known 
as secretaries, and both are never permitted to reside in the province at the 
same time. They alternate yearly. The families of both secretaries reside 
constantly in Yeddo. The secretary who is in the principality therefore 
leaves his family behind him in the capital as a hostage for his fidelity. 
When his year expires he may rejoin them, and his colleague then, bidding 
adieu to his household for a year, takes his place. Each secretary, there- 
fore, is a check upon the doings of the other ; it is the interest of each to 
report any misfeasance in the official conduct of the other ; in short, they 
are spies on each other. But the jealous suspicion of the government is not 
satisfied with even these precautions. The family of the prince himself is 
made to reside at Yeddo, and he must spend each alternate year there near 
the Ziogoon. 

And this feature of making officials serve in pairs, as spies upon each 
other, we may here remark, once for all, pervades the entire polity of 
Japan. Every body is watched. No man knows who are the secret spies 
around him, even though he may be, and is, acquainted with those that are 
official. The Emperors themselves are not exempt ,* vizier, grand coun- 
cillors, vassal princes, provincial secretaries, all are under the eye of an 
everlasting unknown police. The wretched system is even extended to the 
humblest of the citizens. Every city or town is divided into collections of 
five families, and every member of such a division is personally responsible 
for the conduct of the others ; everything, therefore, which occurs in one 
of these families, out of the usual course, is instantly reported to the authori- 
ties by the other four to save themselves from censure. It has well been 
said that the government of Japan is a "government of spies." 

We have said that the Emperors are not exempt. The Ziogoon has his 
minions about the Mikado^ and the grand council have theirs about the 
Ziogoon. And the cowardice engendered by such ceaseless distrust neces- 
sarily leads to cruelty in penalties. Take, as an illustration, the case of a 
measure submitted by the grand council to the Ziogoon; to which, contrary 
to his usual custom, he does not at once assent without examination. Sup- 
pose he should disapprove, the measure is referred immediately to the arbi- 



20 INTRODUCTION. 

tration of the three princes of the blood who are the nearest kinsmen of 
the ZiogooUj and their decision is final. If they do not agree in opinion 
with the monarch, he must instantly relinquish the throne to his son or to 
some other heir. He is not allowed even the poor privilege of revising or 
retracting an opinion. Should the three princes concur in the ZiogoorCs 
opinion, then the member of the council who proposed the obnoxious mea- 
sure thus rejected must die ; and those who voted with him are often re- 
quired to die also. Sometimes the whole council, with the " Grovernor of 
the Empire " at their head, have in this way been obliged to atone for a 
mere mistake in national policy by putting themselves to death. 

4. As to the government of lordships, which are only smaller principali- 
ties, the rule is the same ; a duality of governors, an alternation in the 
discharge of official duties, and a separation every other year from all do- 
mestic enjoyment. 

5. In the imperial provinces and imperial cities the Ziogoon, or rather 
the vizier and grand council for him, select two governors from the nobility, 
and surround them with the usual apparatus of secretaries and under secre- 
taries, police officers, spies, and all other officials. 

As to the spies themselves, they are of every rank in life below that of 
the hereditary princes. The highest nobility dare not shrink from the 
occupation, and even stoop to disguise themselves, the more efiectually to 
perform the degrading office. The fact is, if directed to act as spies, they 
must either do it or adopt as the alternative, death / Doubtless many of 
those who perform this dishonorable work would gladly, were it possible, 
escape from the degradation ; while there are some, ambitious of succeeding 
to those whom they denounce, to whom the occupation is congenial enough. 

A story is told by the writers of Japan which illustrates this. Com- 
plaints were sent to the grand council of the governor of the town of 
Matsmai ; the council resorted to its usual plan of employing a spy. In a 
little while the offending governor was removed. To the amazement of the 
people, they recognized in his successor a man whom they had known as a 
journeyman tobacco-cutter in the town, who, a short time before the dis- 
placement of the old governor, had suddenly disappeared from his master's 
shop. The journeyman was a disguised nobleman, who had acted the part 
of a spy by order of the court. 

A very singular custom of self-punishment, even unto death, prevails 
among all the officials of Japan. When one has offended, or even when in 
his department there has been any violation of law, although beyond his 
power of prevention, so sure is he of the punishment of death that he 
anticipates it by ripping up his own body, disembowelling himself, rather 
than to be delivered over to the executioner. In fact, he is encouraged to 
do so, inasmuch as by his self-destruction he saves his property from for- 
feiture and his family from death with him. With many of the high officials 



INTRODUCTION. 21 

it is a point of honor thus to kill themselves on any failure in their depart- 
ments ; it is construed into an acknowledgment that they deserve to be put 
to death by the Emperor, and their sons are often promoted to high posi- 
tions, as a sort of reward for the father's ingenuous acknowledgment of 
guilt. 

It is easy to see, from what has been said, why the laws and customs of 
Japan are so obstinately unalterable. Every man is afraid of proposing 
an innovation, however wise or necessary, because the penalty is so fearful 
should it not be approved. He who in the grand council offers a measure 
which is disapproved by the tribunal of final resort pays for his act with his 
life. A governor, or lord, or prince, knows that if he attempts any altera- 
tion, no matter how salutary, he will be instantly denounced by his col- 
league, or secretary, a spy upon his conduct, as a violator of the established 
usages of the Empire, and the certain consequence is death. So, too, with 
the common people ; broken up into their little sections of five families, they 
dare not depart in the slightest degree from what is prescribed, for they are 
quite sure that the authorities will be informed of it, and the penalty inevi- 
tably follows. There cannot, under such a system, be anything like judi- 
cious legislation, founded on inquiry, and adapted to the ever varying 
circumstances of life. All must proceed exactly as it has done for centuries; 
progress is rendered impossible, and hence, in some degree, the dijSiculty, 
so long experienced in all Christendom, of bringing the Japanese into com- 
munication with other nations. As a remedy for an existing evil, they saw 
fit, centuries ago, to interdict entirely all such communication ; and, though 
the fact admits of proof that many of their wisest men would gladly have 
seen the interdict removed or modified, as being no longer necessary in 
their altered circumstances, yet no man dared to propose any alteration. 

We may venture to hope that, even in the partial communication with 
strangers allowed to the Japanese by the late treaty with our country, the 
first step has been taken in breaking down their long prevalent system of 
unalterable laws and unchangeable customs. But among a people so sen- 
sitive and suspicious considerable time must elapse before much progress 
is made in a better direction. And, in the first exercise of our rights under 
the treaty, it is to be hoped the greatest care will be taken by our country- 
men to avoid everything which can alarm the sleepless Japanese jealousy 
of strangers ; if there be not, there is danger lest in their apprehensions, or 
perchance in mere caprice, they may seek to undo all that they have thus 
far done. It is obvious that a great deal depends now on the fairness, good 
sense, and good temper of our consular representatives. One rash man may 
overturn all that has been accomplished. 

The system of espionage to which we have alluded explains also what 
all the writers on Japan, and all the ofl&cers of our late expedition, represent 
as a prominent characteristic. We allude to the systematic falsehood and 



22 INTRODUCTION. 

duplicity exhibited, and often without shame, by the high Japanese officials 
and public functionaries in their negotiations and intercourse with strangers. 
We do not mean to say that these bad traits belong to the people generally. 
On the contrary, almost every writer describes them as naturally frank in 
manner, communicative and open in speech on ordinary topics, and pos- 
sessed of a very high sense of honor. They are a people of very ingenious 
and lively minds, possessed of shrewdness, of great personal bravery, as 
their history shows, and far superior (at least in our opinion) to any other 
civilized eastern nation. But the officials are placed in a false position by 
the wretched system of spies, and dare not act openly and frankly. As 
government functionaries, they lie and practice artifice to save themselves 
from condemnation by the higher powers ; it is their vocation ; as private 
gentlemen, they are frank, truthful, and hospitable. MacFarlane, who 
speaks of this official deception, says he has observed precisely the same 
thing among the Turks. Nearly every Turk, unconnected with government, 
may be described as being in his private intercourse, a frank, truth-loving, 
honorable man ; while nearly every one holding a government office may be 
considered as exactly the reverse. These facts present a seeming anomaly, 
and yet we are not sure that something very like it, and differing in degree 
only, may not be found nearer to home than Japan. 

The severity of the Japanese laws is excessive. The code is probably 
the bloodiest in the world. Death is the prescribed punishment for most 
offences. The Japanese seem to proceed on the principle that he who will 
violate one law will violate any other, and that the wilful violator is un- 
worthy to live : he cannot be trusted in society. Their laws are very short 
and intelligible, and are duly made public in more modes than one, so that 
no man can truly plead ignorance ; and the proceedings under them are as 
simple as the laws themselves. There are no professional lawyers in the 
kingdom ; every man is deemed competent to be his own pleader. If a 
party is aggrieved, he immediately appeals to the magistrate, before whom 
the other party is soon made to appear. The case is stated by the com- 
plainant in his own way, and the accused is heard in reply. The magistrate 
examines the witnesses, and it is said that this officer generally displays 
great acuteness in detecting falsehood. He passes sentence, and it is car- 
ried into execution instanter ; and so ends an ordinary lawsuit. If the 
matter in controversy be of great importance, the magistrate may refer it 
to the Emperor in council ; but if he sees fit to decide it himself there is no 
appeal. Sometimes, in trifling cases, he orders the parties to go and settle 
the matter privately with the aid of friends, and it is well understood that 
it must be thus settled, or unpleasant consequences will result. Sometimes, 
when both plaintifl" and defendant are in fault, he awards censure to both, 
as they may deserve it, and sends them about their business. We have 
said their code is bloody in principle, and very often it is sanguinary in 



INT-RODUCTION. 23 

practice. Still the relentings of humanity have forced the administrators 
of justice to some modification of the theory which prescribes indiscriminate 
severity. 

The magistrate may sentence to death, but he is not obliged to do so, 
except in cases of murder. He may^ therefore, exercise a large discretion. 
He may imprison in a raya or cage. In this case, the prisoner is allowed a 
fair proportion of wholesome food, and provision is made for cleanliness and 
ventilation. But there is another prison, commonly a dungeon in the 
governor's house, known by the significant name of gohuya, hell. Into this 
more are thrust than it will conveniently hold ; the door is never opened, 
except to admit or release a prisoner ; the food is passed within through a 
hole in the wall, and there is neither light or ventilation except through a 
small grated hole or window at the top. Books, pipes, and every species 
of recreation are prohibited ; no beds are allowed, and the prisoner is sub- 
jected to what he considers the deep degradation of being made to wear a 
rope of straw around his waist, instead of the usual silk or linen girdle. 
The diet is limited and very poor ; but, if a rich man is confined, he may 
buy better food, on condition that he will share it equally with all his fellow 
prisoners. The Japanese doctrine is, that if a man of wealth or influence 
is a criminal, he has no right to fare any better than the poorest man in the 
Kingdom who commits a crime, therefore all shall be treated alike. 

We have already alluded to the well known, yet remarkable feature of 
Japanese polity, which has for so lona; a time induced the government rigor- 
ously to interdict all communication between its subjects and foreigners, with 
the single exception of the Dutch and Chinese. This exclusive system did 
not always prevail. We shall have occasion, presently, to give the history 
of its origin, and to place before the reader a statement of the means 
whereby the Dutch succeeded in the establishment of their commercial fac- 
tory at Dezima, in the port of Nagasaki. It is only necessary now to remark 
that, prior to the visit of the United States' expedition, no other port but 
Nagasaki was open to a European ship, and, except at that spot, no Japa- 
nese was permitted to buy from or sell to a western stranger. The Chinese 
had some few privileges of trade, but these were hedged around with jealous 
restrictions that hampered their commercial relations and intercourse quite 
as much as those of the Europeans. With this general, and necessarily brief 
view of the leading features of the Japanese government and policy, we pass 
on to another topic. 



24 INTRODUCTION. 



SECTION lY. 

RELIGION. 



Such are the contradictions among the several writers on Japan upon 
the subject of the religion of the country, that it is not easy to discover 
what is the precise truth. Nor is this discrepancy much to be wondered at, 
for, since the extirpation of Christianity from the Kingdom, there is, proba- 
bly, no topic on which a Christian would find it more difficult to obtain from 
a Japanese accurate information than on the subject of religion. There are, 
however, certain particulars in which all agree, and which are doubtless cor- 
rect. 

The original national religion of Japan is called Sin-syu, (from sirij the 
gods, and syUj faith,) and its followers are called Sintoos. Such, at least, is 
the statement made by some writers ; but Siebold says the proper Japanese 
name is Kami-no-mitsi, which means " the way of the Kami,'''' or gods; this 
the Chinese have translated into Shin-tao; and the Japanese have modified 
the Chinese into Sintoo. 

It is said that the only object of worship among the Sintoos is the sun- 
goddess, Ten-sio-dai-zin, who is deemed the patron divinity of Japan. But 
there are thousands of inferior deities, called Kami, of whom the greater 
number are canonized or deified men. It is through these and the Mikado, 
as mediators, that prayers are made to the sun-goddess, who is too great 
and holy to allow of an independent approach to her in prayer. The Mika- 
do is supposed to be her lineal descendant. But with all these divinities the 
Sintoos are not idolaters. They have no idols in their temples ; there are 
images indeed of their Kami, but, as it is alleged, not for purposes of wor- 
ship. This statement, however, is very questionable. The only decorations 
of the old temples were a mirror, the emblem of purity of soul, and many 
strips of white paper formed into what is called a gohei, also an emblem of 
purity. Siebold thinks the image of the Kami, introduced into the temples, 
is a foreign innovation, and never existed before the introduction of Buddh- 
ism. The numerous Kami he considers as analogous to the saints of the 
Romanist. MacFarlane looks on the Sintoo worship at this day as thorough- 
ly permeated with Buddhism. Meylan would make the original religion of 
Japan a pure theism. It is not easy to say what it was or is. As to the 
Sintoo creed, its leading features, according to Siebold, are some vague notion 
of the immortality of the soul, of a future state of existence, of rewards and 
punishments, a paradise and a hell. Its five great duties are : 1st. Treser- 
vation of pure fire as an emblem of purity and instrument of purification. 
2d. Purity of soul, heart, and body to be cherished, the first by obeying the 



INTRODUCTION. 25 

dictates of reason and the laws, the last by abstaining from whatever defiles. 
3d. Observance of festival days, which are numerous. 4th. Pilgrimages, 
which at certain times in the year are imposing and costly; and 5th. The 
worship of the Kami, both in the temples and in private habitations. Im- 
purity may be contracted in various ways : By associating with the impure, 
by hearing obscene or wicked language, by eating certain meats, and by com- 
ing in contact with blood, or with a dead body. For all these there are the 
prescribed modes of purification. 

The festivals all begin with a visit to the temple. There the votary 
performs his ablutions at a reservoir provided for the purpose ; he then kneels 
in the verandah, opposite to a grated window, through which he gazes at the 
mirror, and then ofiers up his prayers, with his sacrifice of rice, fruit, tea, or 
the like. This done, he drops his coin in the money-box, and retires. This 
is the usual form of Kami worship at the temples. The moneys contributed 
are applied to the support of the Kaminusi, as they are called. These are 
the priests of the temple, and their name or title means, literally, the land- 
lords of the gods. These priests live in houses within the grounds of their 
respective temples, and are hospitable to strangers. Siebold says that they 
marr}^, and that their wives are priestesses, who have prescribed religious 
duties ; though we have been told by an intelligent Japanese, in reply to our 
inquiries, that the Sintoo priests do not marry. 

Prilgrimage, however, is the great religious duty of the Sintooites. There 
are two-and- twenty shrines in the Kingdom commanding such homage ; but 
the great and most sacred one is that of the sun-goddess, Ten-sio-dai-sin, at 
Isye. To make at least one pilgrimage to this shrine is incumbent upon 
everybody of the Sintoo faith. The very pious go annually. Even the 
Buddhists (with the exception of the Bonzes or priests) perform this pilgrim- 
age. The Ziogoon is permitted to perform this religious duty vicariously, 
and annually sends an embassy of pilgrims to Isye. 

The Kaminusi are the regular clergy of the Sintoo religion in Japan ; 
but the European writers on the subject mention two institutions or religious 
orders, if they may be so called, composed entirely of the blind, and consti- 
tuting a quasi clergy. The Japanese tell romantic stories about their origin. 
One of the fraternities they say was founded many centuries ago by Senmi- 
mar, a prince of the Empire, and the younger son of the then reigning Mi- 
kado. The prince was one of the handsomest men in the Kingdom, and 
loved a princess whose beauty was a match for his own. She died, and such 
was his grief, that he wept himself blind. He then founded this order. The 
other association had a dilferent, but not less remarkable origin. In the 
times of Yoritomo, of whom we have spoken in the last section, there was a 
general named Kakekigo, who commanded a part of the troops of Prince 
Feki. In battle with Yoritomo, Prince Feki was slain, and Kakekigo was 
taken prisoner. So great was the renown of the prisoner, throughout Japan, 



26 INTKODUCTION. 

that Yoritomo strove most earnestly to gain his friendship ; he loaded him 
with kindnesses and finally offered him his liberty. Kakekigo replied : " 1 
can love none but my slain master. I owe you gratitude ; but you caused 
Prince Feki's death, and never can I look upon you without wishing to kill 
you. My best way to avoid such ingratitude and to reconcile my conflicting 
duties, is never to see you more ; and thus do I insure it." With these 
words, he tore out his eyes, and presented them to Yoritomo on a salver. 
The prince, struck with admiration, released him, when Kakekigo withdrew 
into retirement and founded this second order of the blind, which is called, 
after Prince Feki, the Fekisado. 

There are two sects among the Sin-syu : the Yuits and the Rioboo-Sintoo. 
The first are the rigidly orthodox, who will allow of no innovation. They are 
few in number, and consist mostly of the Kaminusi or priests. The other 
sect, which comprises the great body of the Sintoos, is eclectic, and has 
introduced a great deal of Buddhism into the system. 

Buddhism is the most widely difi'used of all false creeds. Its followers 
amount to three hundred and twenty millions, while those of Mohammed 
fall short of this number by fifty millions. The founder of this religion was 
a man called Sakya-Sinha, (Syaka in Japan,) who, by his virtues and 
austerity, attained to divine honors, and after death was deified under the 
name of Buddha, or " the Sage." It is impossible to say when he was born. 
The earliest period named is 2,420 years before the Christian era ; the latest 
is but 543 years prior to that event. Neither can it be said with certainty 
when Buddhism was introduced into Japan. Klaproth and Siebold, both of 
whom profess to follow Japanese writers, differ as to dates. The probability 
is that it was brought in from India or Corea near the close of the sixth 
century of our era. 

The leading features of this system of religion are the metempsychosis, 
whence arises the dogma that prohibits the taking of animal life ; the worship 
of a countless host of idols ; that the grand Lama, or high-priest King, never 
dies; that their priests constitute a distinct order in the State, and that they 
are bound to celibacy. The chief commandments of Buddhism are five in 
number, and constitute a code which is called the Gokal, or five laws. They 
are these : not to kill, not to steal, to live chastely, not to lie, and to abstain 
from strong drink. The SiJca'i, or ten counsels, contain the division and 
application of these laws to particular cases. Buddhism made its way in 
Japan by degrees, although the government tolerated it from the beginning. 
Indeed, no feature is more striking among the institutions of the Empire 
than its enlarged spirit of religious toleration. It was extended to Chris- 
tianity on its first promulgation by the Portuguese ; and was not withdrawn 
until the Japanese supposed that intolerance and treason lurked under the 
new religion. Christianity was driven from Japan on political, not on 
religious grounds. Such is the liberality of the government on the subject 



INTRODUCTION. 27 

of religion that, at this moment, may be found in Japan no less than thirty- 
four sects, all quite distinct from Buddhism, (which is the faith of a majority 
of the Kingdom,) perfectly unmolested. The truth is, that the Japanese 
government exhibits now, as it always has done, a very remarkable indiffer- 
ence to mere doctrinal points, so long as they interfere not with the public 
tranquillity. When the priests of the Japanese sects joined, centuries ago, in 
a petition to the Emperor that he would banish the Jesuits and the Romish 
monks, annoyed by their importunities, he asked them how many different 
religions there were then in Japan ? They answered " thirty-jBve." " Well," 
said the Emperor, " when thirty-five religions can be tolerated we can easily 
bear with thirty-six; leave the strangers in peace." 

The Buddhism of Japan, at this day, has probably much of the old Sintoo 
mixed up with it ; but there is reason to think that no creed in the Kingdom 
has a very strong hold on the popular mind. Christianity, however, is viewed 
with suspicion by all, and at present, is not, in any degree, tolerated. 

The idolatry of the common people, who are Buddhists, is exceedingly 
gross, while among the learned the religion assumes the character of a high 
mystic creed, not wanting in some features that are pure enough. 

There is a third sect, called by some writers religious, though Ksempfer 
more properly speaks of it as a school of philosophers. It is known by the 
name of Siutoo, which means " the way of philosophers." It inculcates no 
particular faith, and can accommodate itself to any, whether true or false. 
In some of its features it borders closely on Pantheism. It is supposed, and 
we presume correctly, to be an importation from China, compounded of most 
of the moral precepts of Confucius, and some high mystic Buddhist notions. 
It has no religious rites or ceremonies of its own. There are five great 
points which characterize it. They call them Dsin, Gi, Be, Tsi, Sin. Dsin 
teaches them to live virtuously ; Gi to do right and act justly with every- 
body ; Be to be civil and polite ; Tsi sets forth rules for a good and prudent 
government ; and Sin treats of a free conscience and upright heart. Nearly all 
the early European writers say that by far the larger number of the learned 
men of Japan belong to this school, which is remarkable for its scorn of the 
Buddhist idolatry. When Christianity was driven from Japan, the Siutooists 
were suspected of a tendency toward that faith, and thenceforth every Japa- 
nese was required to have in his house an idol of some kind. 

Meylan, the Dutch official at Dezima, speaks of a fourth religion, which 
co-existed with these three prior to the introduction of Christianity. His 
story is, that about A. D. 50, a Brahminical sect was introduced into Japan, 
which taught as doctrines the redemption of the world by the son of a virgin, 
who died to expiate human sin, thus insuring to man a joyful resurrection. 
It also taught a trinity of immaterial persons constituting one eternal, 
omnipotent God, the maker of all things, who was to be adored as the 
source of all good. 



28 INTRODUCTION. 

Some liave hence intimated what certainly is not impossible, that Chris- 
tianity may have thus early reached Japan through India. But there is 
probably some mistake in this statement of the doctrines held. No writer 
but Meylan has mentioned the story, and both the Buddhist and Brahmin- 
ical systems afford materials which an over-zealous and uninformed spirit of 
Christianity might easily convert into seemingly Christian doctrines. Thus, 
the ola Spanish ecclesiastics who first cam.e to America were quite convinced 
that the gospel had been brought to our continent by St. Thomas, long before 
their arrival. 



SECTION Y. 

GENERAL YIEW OF THE PAST RELATIONS OF THE EMPIRE WITH THE 
WESTERN CIVILIZED NATIONS. 

THE PORTUGUESE. 

Fee,du^and Mendez Pinto has been immortalized by Cervantes, but 
unfortunately for his reputation it is, to use the phrase of Shakspeare, as a 
"measureless liar." Like Marco Polo, when he told strange things that 
liad befallen him in his wanderings, the men of his generation refused to 
believe him. But like Polo, he related a great deal that has since been 
found to be true ; and we are inclined to think that, when telling what he 
professed to have seen himself, he interspersed his narrative with as few 
lies as some of his more accredited successors of modern times. 

Pinto was a good representative of the Portuguese discoverer of the 
sixteenth century. In his day Portugal was a power. In less than two 
centuries she had traversed the Atlantic, conquered Madeira, the Cape de 
Verds, the coast of Guinea and Congo ; had planted herself on the shores of 
India, and obtained a foothold in China. She had founded in her wealthy 
metropolis of Goa what has been called "the Rome of India." She 
possessed Macao, and was among the first of European maritime powers in 
the east. Albuquerque had laid for her the foundations of a magnificent 
oriental empire, which it needed a man like Albuquerque to consolidate and 
retain. The man was wanting, and the empire never grew to maturity. But 
this her prosperous day produced for her many a hardy sailor, half hero, half 
adventurer ; now exhibiting a touch of chivalry and now a touch of traffic ; a 
soldier on land to-day and a corsair of the seas to-morrow ; exceedingly devout 
or surpassingly profane, according to circumstances; but always ready to 
encounter fatigue, privation or peril, to promote the gain of himself and the 



'' INTRODUCTION. 29 

grandeur of his country, wliicli on most occasions lie felicitously contrived to 
reconcile and blend into one common end. Of this class Pinto was a type. 

He visited Japan, and has told us the story of his adventures ; and the 
better authorities of this day believe that he was an eye-witness and actor 
in such scenes as he relates of personal incidents. 

There is, however, some room for discussion on the subject of dates ; for 
if we may credit the Japanese annals, it would seem that about the same 
time there must have been two visits of Europeans to Japan ; but if there 
were, both were made by natives of Portugal, so that to them unquestion- 
ably belongs the honor of having first landed on the Japanese soil, and of 
having brought that country into communication with Europe. The dis- 
covery, indeed, was accidental in both cases, if two there were,, but that does 
not alter the fact that it was made by the Portuguese. 

We incline to think, however, that there was but one visit. The annals 
of Japan record the arrival of the first Europeans, and substantially they 
agree with Pinto's story. So remarkable was the event, and so strange the 
appearance of the new comers, that the Japanese preserved portraits of them. 
The date assigned in the annals would correspond with our October, in the 
year 1543. Pinto makes the date of his arrival in 1545. Still the details 
given by Pinto, and confirmed by the annals, force us to believe that both 
are telling the story of the same event. Whether it were in the one year 
or the other of those named above, the story is, that a Portuguese ship or 
Chinese Corsair, (we know not which,) on board of which was Pinto, after 
great stress of weather, was driven to the shores of Japan, and anchored at 
last in the harbor of Bungo, on the island of Kiu-siu. The Japanese at 
that time, though vigilant, yet manifested no reluctance to admit the stran- 
gers and hold communication with them. They extended courtesy and 
kindness to them, and no obstacle was interposed to a free trade with the 
inhabitants. The names of those who first landed are said by various 
writers, from Mafifeius up to Thunberg, to have been Antonio Mota, Fran- 
cisco Zeimoto, and Antonio Peixoto. Fraissinet, however, thinks that the 
names have been disfigured or altered, and that the individuals meant were 
Fernan Mendez Pinto, Diego Zeimoto, and Christoval Borallo. The Japanese 
annals speak of two under the names of Moura Siouksia and Krista Mota, 
and Fraissinet suggests that Siouksia may be the Japanese pronunciation of 
Zeimoto, and Krista their nearest approach to Christoval. The natives and 
strangers were so well pleased with each other that, by an arrangement with 
the viceroy or prince of Bungo, (the rulers of the principalities were then 
probably more independent of the Emperor than they are now,) a Portu- 
guese ship was to be sent annually to the island of Kiu-siu laden with 
woollen cloths, furs, manufactured silks, taffetas, and other commodities 
needed by the Japanese. The ship was to be despatched probably from 
Macao, or, it may be, from Goa. The returns were to be made in gold. 



30 INTRODUCTION. 

silver, and copper, of tlie last of whicli there is undoubted abundance in 
Japan, and probably no small quantity of the first. 

But with this introduction of commercial relations, the Portuguese soon 
introduced also priests of the religion they professed. In 1549, seven years 
only after the discovery, Hansiro, a young Japanese of some rank, had found it 
necessary to fly from his country, on account of a homicide, and had gone to 
the Portuguese settlement of Goa, on the Malabar coast. Here he encoun- 
tered ecclesiastics of the church of Rome, by whom he was converted to the 
Ghristain faith and baptized. He was enterprising and shrewd, and soon 
convinced the Portuguese merchants of Goa that they might establish a 
profitable trade with Japan, and assured the Jesuits that they also might 
find a rich harvest of souls in the Empire. 

The Portuguese hastened to act on both his suggestions ; a ship was 
loaded with goods and presents and sent to establish a permanent trade with 
Japan; while, for the accomplishment of the second object, some of the 
Jesuit priests were ready enough to embark. Among them was that 
remarkable man, Francis Xavier, who possessed in an eminent degree many 
of the most important qualifications of the Christian missionary. To talents 
of a very high order he added a zeal and enthusiasm rarely equalled, and a 
courage never surpassed. The thought of the perils attending the mission, 
so far from disheartening him, served only to strengthen his resolve to 
undertake it. On board the ship returned the young Japanese convert who 
had suggested the undertaking. On arriving at the province of Bango all 
were received with open arms, and not the slightest opposition was made to 
the introduction of either trade or religion. No system of exclusion then 
existed, and such was the spirit of toleration that the government made no 
objection to the preaching of Christianity. Indeed the Portuguese were 
freely permitted to go where they pleased in the Empire, and to travel, by 
land or sea, from one end of it to the other. The people bought the goods 
of the merchants and listened to the teachings of the missionaries. The 
labors of the last were very successful, for it is but justice to Xavier and 
the first missionaries to say that they were most exemplary men — humble, 
virtuous, disinterested, and very benevolent. Possessed of some medical 
skill, they used it kindly and gratuitously among the sick, and were deserv- 
edly viewed by the people as friendly and superior men, whose lives were 
devoted to doing good. They meddled with no public aff'airs ; unmolested 
by the government, they troubled not themselves about its administration; 
and imitating the example of the devoted Xavier, they modestly and unceas- 
ingly pursued the appropriate duties of their holy calling only. In fact, 
they loved the Japanese. With one voice the early missionaries speak in 
terms of strong affection when they describe the docile and good disposition 
of the Japanese. Xavier says : " I know not when to cease in speaking of 
the Japanese. They are truly the delight of my heart." 



INTRODUCTION. 31 

This eminent man went from Japan to China in 1551, and in 1552 died 
at Shan Shan, on the Canton river, not far from Macao. He left behind 
him, however, among his beloved islanders, some very able and excellent 
men, and churches were built and converts made by thousands. 

Nor were the commercial relations of the new comers less prosperous. 
They could readily obtain the commodities they wished for the Japanese 
market from their establishments at Macao and Groa. The profits they 
made on their European merchandise were commonly one hundred per cent. ; 
so that, as Kgempfer has said, if their commercial prosperity had continued 
but twenty years longer, Macao would have been so enriched from Japan 
that it would have surpassed all that was accumulated in Jerusalem during 
the reign of Solomon. As one of the old writers expresses it, the Portuguese 
obtained " the golden marrow " of Japan. In fact they had but to proceed 
prudently and they would ere long have been the dominant race in Japan. 
Many of them had married the daughters of the wealthiest Christian Japa- 
nese, and no other nation of Europe could have driven them from their strong 
position. 

It was about the year 1566 that the Portuguese first called the atten- 
tion of the reigning prince of Omura to the superiority of the harbor of 
Nagasaki over the ports they were accustomed to frequent ; and it was at 
their suggestion that a settlement was formed there. Bungo, Firando, 
(Firato,) and Nagasaki were the principal places of commercial business. 

But all this prosperity was destined to have an end, and we are sorry to 
say it was occasioned by the ecclesiastics themselves. Had the work begun 
by Xavier and his companions been left in the hands of men like them- 
selves, we very much doubt whether the severe Japanese laws prohibiting 
Christianity in the Empire would ever have existed. But these prudent, 
inoffensive, and laborious men were soon outnumbered by swarms of Domi- 
nican, Augustinian, and Franciscan friars from Goa and Macao, who were 
attracted by the flattering accounts of the remarkable success of the Jesuits. 
They had not labored in making the harvest, they were ready enough to go 
and reap it. The Franciscans and Dominicans quarrelled with each other, 
and all the orders quarrelled with the Jesuits. In vain did the latter im- 
plore them to profit by their experience, to be discreet and suppress their 
strife, to respect the laws and usages of the country. In vain did they 
represent that their conduct would prove fatal, not merely to their own 
hopes and purposes, but even to the progress, possibly to the continuance in 
Japan of Christianity itself. All was of no avail. To the Japanese con- 
vert was presented the strange spectacle of one ecclesiastic quarrelling with 
another, of one body of priests intriguing with heathens to defeat another ; 
while even the poor native Christian labored to reconcile the feuds and 
rivalries of these consecrated bellis:erents. 



32 INTRODUCTION 

The quarrels of these Roman monastic orders may, therefore, be ac- 
counted as one cause of the expulsion of Christianity from Japan. 

But this was not all. The pride, avarice, and extortions of the Portu- 
guese laity had become excessive about the close of the sixteenth century, 
and disgusted the Japanese. Yery many of the clergy, forgetful of the 
spirit of their office, instead of rebuking these sins, rather gave their 
countenance to their wealthy countrymen, and often sustained their acts 
without inquiring into their propriety. Indeed, their own pride quite 
equalled that of the laity ; and even the native Christians are said to have 
been both shocked and disgusted when they saw that their spiritual instruc- 
tors were quite as diligent in the effort to acquire their property as in the 
endeavor to save their souls. The Japanese traditions, to this day, repre- 
sent the downfall of Christianity in the Empire as having been, in part at 
least, produced by the avarice, sensuality, and pride of the ecclesiastics. 
They treated with open contempt the institutions and customs of the 
country, and insulted the highest officials of the government by studied 
indignities. A circumstance is related as having occurred in 1596, which is 
said to have been the immediate cause of the great persecution. A Portu- 
guese bishop was met on the high road by one of the highest officers of the 
State on his way to court. Each was in his sedan. The usage of the 
country required that, in such case, the conveyance of the bishop should be 
stopped, and that he should alight and pay his respects to the nobleman. 
Instead of conforming to this established act of courtesy, the bishop took 
not the least notice of the Japanese dignitary, but, turning his head away 
from him, ordered his bearers to carry him on. The insult, evidently in- 
tended, was so gross that the grandee took mortal offence, and confounding 
the Portuguese generally with their haughty clergy, he conceived toward all 
an implacable resentment. He forthwith presented his grievance to the 
Emperor, and touched his sense of dignity and national pride by a strong 
picture of the vanity and insolence of the Portuguese. Taiko, of whom we 
have already spoken, was at that time Emperor, and he was the last man to 
permit the laws and customs of his Empire to be treated with contempt by a 
set of presumptuous foreigners, who had neither good feeling nor good sense 
enough to repay the kindness they had received with the decency of common 
civility. With the Emperor's kind sentiments thus alienated the end was 
certain ; it involved a question of time only ; and such was the infatuation 
of these inflated ecclesiastics that this stupid act of episcopal insolence was 
perpetrated at a time when the Portuguese, by their pride and avarice, had 
already lost the best part of the favor they had once possessed. 

At length a Portuguese ship, on its way from the East to Lisbon, was 
captured by the Dutch, and among other matters found on board were 
certain treasonable letters, written by Moro, a native Japanese, to the King 
of Portugal. Moro was a zealous Romanist, a warm friend of the Jesuits, 



INTRODUCTION. 33 

and one of tlie chief agents and friends of the Portuguese in Japan. From 
these letters it appeared that the Japanese Christians, in conjunction with 
the Portuguese, were plotting the overthrow of the throne ; and all they 
wanted was a supply of ships and soldiers from Portugal. It may be diffi- 
cult to ascertain, with certainty, all the details of the conspiracy ; but of 
the conspiracy itself there can be no doubt. 

The Dutch, who were the sworn foes of the Portuguese, lost no time in 
communicating the intercepted letters to the authorities of Japan, and the 
result was that in 1637 an imperial proclamation decreed that " the whole 
race of the Portuguese, with their mothers, nurses, and whatever belongs to 
them, shall be banished forever." The same proclamation forbade, under 
penalty of death to those concerned, any Japanese ship, or native of Japan, 
to depart from the country. It directed that any Japanese returning home 
from a foreign country should be put to death ; that any person presuming 
to bring a letter from abroad should die ; that no nobleman or soldier should 
purchase anything from a foreigner ; that any person propagating Christian 
doctrines, or even bearing the title of Christian, should suffer ; and a reward 
was offered for the discovery of every priest, as well as of every native 
Christian. Under these severe edicts some of the Portuguese were at once 
frightened out of the country. Others, however, lingered, cooped up in 
their factory at Dezima, hoping that the tempest would presently pass over, 
and that they might resume their traffic. But the Emperor was firmly re- 
solved to root them out forever, and forbade them ever to import even the 
goods of their own country ; and so ended the trade of the Portuguese with 
Japan, and the toleration of the Christian religion in the Empire. 

The writers of the church of Rome assert that it was owing to the 
malice and misrepresentations of the heretical Dutch that the missionaries 
and early Japanese converts were exposed to the persecutions, which after- 
wards resulted in the expulsion of Christianity. An examination of dates, 
however, will show that this statement is entirely erroneous. The Portu- 
guese, clerical and lay, must blame themselves only for their final expulsion. 
Doubtless, the Dutch, as we shall see presently, were ready enough to give 
increased impetus, whenever they could, to the tide of calamity which ulti- 
mately overwhelmed their rivals, but that tide had commenced its flow, in 
the form of persecution of Christianity, fully three years before a Dutchman 
set foot in Japan. It began, as we have said, in the quarrels of the monas- 
tic orders themselves. 

It would be wrong to leave this brief sketch of the Portuguese relations 
with Japan without bearing witness to the noble constancy of the thousands 
of native Christians who were put to death for their religion. The history 
of Christianity's persecutions contains no more touching chapter than that 
which records the cruel torments and heroic Christian courage of men, 
3 



34 INTKODUCTION. 

women, and even children, as they bore testimony to tlie sincerity of their 
Christian convictions. 



THE DUTCH. 

It is to an Englishman that the Hollanders are indebted for an introduc- 
tion to Japan, and for the establishment of their earliest commercial relations. 
After the grant by the Pope of all the western and about half the eastern 
hemisphere to the Spaniards and Portuguese, these people, who were then 
not without naval strength, were unwilling to allow any share of trade to 
the other powers of Europe ; and, whenever they could, they seized their 
unarmed vessels as contraband, if they found them within the imaginary 
limits of their Papal grant, confiscated their cargoes, and treated their crews 
as sea-thieves and smugglers. 

The Dutch and English, who had no respect for the Pope's geography, 
and as little faith in his religion, denied his title to the ownership of the 
whole earth, and profanely likened him to Satan when he offered to our Lord 
whole kingdoms, in which he had not title in fee to a single square foot. 
But as Spain and Portugal were, in the assertion of their title, as much in 
the habit of relying on powder and ball as on men's conscientious submission 
to the decrees of the holy father, the Dutch and English rarely sent out 
their ships, and especially to the " south seas," without taking care to arm 
them ; and commonly they dispatched them in squadrons. Thus, cruising in 
company, they went wherever they thought they could find a profitable trade ; 
and deemed it a religious duty (which they scrupulously performed) to seize 
and plunder, whenever they could, any Spanish or Portuguese ship, and to 
make a descent on their coasts, and burn their colonial towns and villages. 
Whoever would read the story of their wild, exciting, and often romantic 
adventures, may find them in Esquemeling's or Burnet's histories of the 
buccaneers. The hatred between Spain and Portugal on the one side, and 
the Dutch and English on the other, was intense. Differing in religion, the 
first named had no gentler epithets to apply to their enemies than " vile Lu- 
therans," "schismatics," "accursed heretics;" while the latter repaid them, 
by applying the equally mild terms of " lying Papists," " foul idolaters," 
" worshippers of wood and rotten bones." This state of embittered feeling 
prevailed all through the reigns of Elizabeth, James I., and Charles I. of 
England, and ceased only in the time of William III., when the peace of 
Ryswick allowed, on the part of Spain and Portugal, a little freedom of com- 
merce to other nations, who, by the way, were becoming more powerful than 
the Spaniards and Portuguese on the Pacific and the eastern waters. * 

It was during this period of national animosity, in the latter part of the 
reign of Elizabeth, that the Dutch made their way to Japan. A fleet of 
five sail of Dutch ships, under the command of Jaques Mahu, left the Texel 



INTRODUCTION. 35 

on the 24th of June, 1598. It was sent out by the Indian Company of 
Holland ; and on board of the admiral's ship was William Adams, as pilot. 
Adams has told his own story with captivating simplicity ; and it has been 
preserved in the pages of that worthy compiler ; honest old Purchas. He 
tells us as follosw : " Your worships will understand that I am a Kentish 
man, born in a town called Gillingham, two English miles from Rochester, 
and one mile from Chatham, where the queen's ships do lie." After stating 
that he was regularly apprenticed and bred a seaman, he thus proceeds : " I 
have served in the place of master and pilot in her Majesty's ships, and 
about eleven or twelve years served the worshipful company of the Barbary 
merchants, until the Indian traffic from Holland began ; in which Indian 
traffic I was desirous to make a little experience of the small knowledge 
which Grod has given me. So, in the year of our Lord Grod 1598, I hired 
myself for chief pilot of a fleet of five sail of Hollanders," &c. 

But the " little experience " of our English pilot proved both long and ' 
sad. Sickness broke out in the ships, the admiral and a great many of the 
men died ; after divers calamities they reached the Straits of Magellan in 
April, 1599 ; they were forced, not by any fault of Adams but by the folly 
of the commander, to winter in the Straits, remaining in them nearly six 
months, until provisions were exhausted and some of the men actually died 
of hunger. At length, after getting into the Pacific, storms dispersed the 
fleet ; some were lost, some captured ; the savages on the islands where 
they landed in search of food and water, in more than one instance, lay in 
ambush and murdered the men ; and finally, after great sufiering, it was 
resolved, on Adams' advice, to make for Japan. Of the five ships that had 
left Holland together there remained but the one of which Adams was pilot. 
But he kept a stout heart, and at last, on the 11th of April, 1600, he saw 
the high lands of Japan in the province of Bungo, and on the 12th came to 
anchor, when there were actually but five men of the whole ship's company 
able to go about and do duty. They were hospitably received, soldiers were 
placed on board to prevent a robbery of their goods, a house was provided 
for the sick, and their bodily wants were all supplied by the prince of Bungo, 
who sent word to the Emperor of their arrival. 

The Portuguese, it will be remembered, were already established in Japan, 
and one of their commercial depots was at Nagasaki. Five or six days after 
the arrival of the Dutch, there came from that place a Portuguese Jesuit, 
with some of his countrymen and some Japanese Christians. The former of 
these immediately denounced the Hollanders as pirates, denying that they 
had come for any purposes of trade, as they alleged, though their ship had 
a full cargo of merchandize on board. This created a prejudice against them 
in the minds of the Japanese, and the poor Hollanders lived in daily expec- 
tation of being put to death. This was precisely what the Portuguese would 
have been glad to see, influenced by the double motive of hatred of heretics 



36 INTRODUCTION. 

and the wisli to monopolize trade. But tlie case having been submitted to 
the Emperor, who was then at Osaca, he ordered that Adams and one of the 
Dutch sailors should be sent to him. He was sent accordingly, and fur- 
nishes a long and interesting account of his interview with the monarch, 
(conducted through the medium of a Portuguese interpreter,) in the course 
of which Adams had an opportunity of showing the Emperor samples of the 
merchandize he had brought with him, and of begging that he and his com- 
panions might have liberty to trade, as the Portuguese had. An answer was 
returned in Japanese, but Adams did not understand it, and he was carried 
to prison, but his comforts seem to have been duly regarded. He remained 
in prison forty-one days, during all which time, as he subsequently discovered, 
the Jesuits and Portuguese residents spared no efforts to induce the Emperor 
to put all the Dutch ship's company to death as pirates. At last the Empe- 
ror answered their application with equal justice and good sense, by telling 
them that, as yet, the Dutch had done no hurt to him or any of his people, 
and that therefore he had no just cause to take their lives ; nor could he find 
any suflSicient reason for such severity as they desired in the fact that wars 
existed between Portugal and Holland, with which he had nothing to do. 

At length he summoned Adams before him again, and asked of him a 
great many questions. Finally, he enquired of him whether he would like to 
go to his ship again to see his companions ? Upon his answering affirmatively 
he bade him go, and this was the first intimation Adams had that the ship 
had been brought by the Emperor's order to Osaca, and that his companions 
were alive. Everything was now taken out of the vessel, which was ordered 
to a spot nearer to Jeddo, whither the Emperor had gone. The whole ship's 
company were liberally provided for at the expense of the government. 
Presently they petitioned that they might be permitted to take their vessel 
and depart, but the Emperor would not consent. Finally, at the expiration 
of two years, during which time they had been at liberty and mingled freely 
with the Japanese, they were informed that they could not have their ship 
any more, and that they must make up their minds to live, for the rest of 
their days, happily and peacefully in Japan. Hereupon the Dutchmen dis- 
persed themselves, going where they pleased, and living comfortably enough 
upon the daily allowance made them by the Emperor. Adams, however, 
remained about the court, and by his ingenuity and good qualities, soon made 
friends, and gradually rose in the esteem of the Emperor until he attained 
to a high position of honor in the country. He taught his majesty some of 
the principles of mathematics, and built for him two vessels. These things 
gave to him such commanding influence, that even the Jesuits and Portu- 
guese, who, for the reasons already mentioned, were gradually losing favor, 
were glad to secure his friendly interposition with the Emperor for their 
benefit. 

At length, in 1609, two armed Dutch ships came to Japan. Their object 



INTRODUCTION. 37 

was to intercept and make prize of tlie large Portuguese carrack which made 
the yearly voyage from Macao to Japan with merchandize for the established 
trade. They were, however, a few days too late for her capture, and so they 
put in at Firando, and the commanders went thence to the court of the 
Emperor. Here William Adams, being the chief negotiator for ihem, they 
were kindly received, and obtained the Emperor's free pass, and permission 
for their nation to send annually a ship or two for purposes of trade ; and 
this was the beginning of the Dutch commerce with Japan. 

Adams, as we have said, rose to high distinction. He thus describes his 
situation : " Now for my service which I have done and daily do, being em- 
ployed in the Emperor's service, he hath given me a living like unto a lord- 
ship in England, with eighty or ninety husbandmen, who are as my ser- 
vants and slaves. The precedent was never done before. Thus, God hath 
provided for me after my great misery ; to his name be the praise forever. 
Amen." 

But with all this external prosperity, poor Adams had a heartsore that 
could not be healed in Japan. He had left a young wife and two children 
in England, whom he tenderly loved. Some of the most affecting passages 
he has written are those in which he alludes to his family, and expresses the 
dreadful apprehension that he should never see them again. There are such 
honest, natural outpourings of a true and faithful heart in these passages, that 
it is impossible to read them without the deepest sympathy. The Emperor 
was not willing he should go at all. Had he been willing, Adams could not 
have gone in the Portuguese ships, which were, at first, the only vessels that 
came annually for trade ; but when he had successfully negotiated for the 
Dutch, his hopes of once more seeing his family began to revive. He thought 
that in some of their vessels God might at last provide a way for his return 
to Eigland. But, though thus saddened at heart, he never lost his self-pos- 
session and prudence. He thought that, should he never be able to go him- 
self, he might at least let his beloved family know where he was, and assure 
them of his unabated affection. From the Dutch ship which came in 1611, 
he for the first time learned that his countrymen, the English, were carrying 
on considerable trade in the East Indies, and had made a humble beginning, 
in the way of factories, on the Malabar coast. He, of course, knew not who 
of his countrymen might be there, or elsewhere in the east, but whoever or 
wherever they might be, they were English, and through them he might tell 
the sad story of his thirteen long years of separation from home and wife and 
children. He accordingly wrote two long letters, the one addressed to his 
wife, the other endorsed as follows : " To my unknown friends and country- 
men, desiring this letter, by your good means or the news or copy of this 
letter, may come to one or many of my acquaintance in Limehouse or else- 
where, or in Kent, in Gillingham by Rochester." The last sentence in this 
is in these words : 



38 INTKODUCTION. 

" Thus, ia short, I am constrained to write, hoping that by one means or 
other, in process of time, I shall hear of my wife and children ; and so with 
patience I wait the good will and pleasure of Grod Almighty, desiring all 
those to whom this my letter shall come to use the means to acquaint my 
good friends with it, that so my wife and children may hear of me ; by which 
means, there may be hope that I may hear of my wife and children before 
my death ; the which the Lord grant to his glory and my comfort. Amen. 

" Done in Japan, the two and twentieth of October, 1611, by your un- 
worthy friend and servant to command in what I can, 

"WILLIAM ADAMS." 

In both these letters Adams related the principal occurrences that had 
befallen him since he left the Texel, and from these we have drawn the facts 
previously related. The letters did reach England, but whether they found 
his wife and children living, or whether he ever heard from them we cannot 
tell. As to himself, he might have sadly appropriated the words of the 
poet: 

"Nor wife nor children more shall he behold, 
Nor friends nor sacred home." 

He died at Firando, in Japan, in 1619 or 1620, after having resided 
there from the year 1600 ; and we have dwelt the longer on his personal 
history, not merely on account of its melancholy interest, but because when 
we come to speak of the doings of his own countrymen in Japan, these 
letters will be necessary to elucidate our narrative. 

Leaving now these letters, we proceed Avith the history of the Dutch 
commerce. The first factory of the Hollanders was at Firando, and was on 
an humble scale. That of the Portuguese was at Nagasaki, on the island 
Dezima, which is now occupied by the Dutch. The rivalry between the two 
establishments was, of course, very great, and each sought to injure the other 
as much as possible with the Japanese authorities. At length, before the 
close of 1639, the Portuguese were totally expelled the country; and then 
occurred an act on the part of the Dutch in Japan, too clearly proved to 
admit of denial, and too wicked and infamous to allow of palliation. It was 
no better than cold blooded murder, prompted by no higher motive than the 
base love of commercial gain. The facts were these : Though no Portuguese 
Christian remained in Japan, yet the native Christians were not all extir- 
pated. These poor creatures, deprived of their European teachers, persevered 
in their faith, though threatened with imprisonment, torture and death. 
Oppression presently drove them" into open rebellion, and they took refuge 
and made a stand against the imperial forces in Simabara. The Japanese 
authorities called on the Dutch to assist them in making war against these 
Christians, and the Dutch did it. Kockebecker was then director of the 



INTKODUCTION. 39 

Dutch trade and nation in Japan. Tlie native Christians had endeavored 
to fortify themselves in an old town, which the troops of the Emperor could 
not take. A Dutch ship was lying at Firando, and on board of this Kocke- 
becker repaired to Simabara, and battered the old town with the ship's guns 
as well as from a battery he had erected on shore. After a fortnight of this 
work the Japanese were satisfied to discharge the Dutch director ; for though 
the Christians had not surrendered, yet they had lost so many of their 
number, and the place was so weakened that it was obvious it could not 
hold out much longer. Requiring, therefore, of the Dutch director that he 
should land six more guns for the use of the Emperor, they dismissed him. 
The place was finally taken, after a very large number of the besieged had 
perished by famine, and a total massacre of men, women and children fol- 
lowed ; not one was spared. 

We have spoken of this act as perpetrated by the Dutch in Japan, for 
we cannot deem it fair to involve every Hollander in an indiscriminate 
censure. There were other Dutch ships at Firando beside that which 
was employed in the bombardment ; but the commanders of these, either 
suspecting, or having intimation that the Japanese would demand aid at 
their hands, quietly left their anchorage, and went to sea before the demand 
was made, and thus escaped participation in this atrocious wickedness. To 
us it seems that the infamy must rest chiefly on the Dutch director, and 
that M. Kockebecker deliberately preferred this most foul murder of the 
innocent to the loss or interruption of the Dutch trade. Be this as it may, 
the fact is distinctly admitted by all the Dutch writers on Japan, from the 
middle of the seventeenth century up to Fischer's work, published in 1833. 
It is true, one says, that the Dutch were compelled to do it ; another states, 
that the Dutch only supplied cannon, powder, and ball, taught the Japanese 
artillery practice, and sent ammunition, arms, and troops in theu' ships to 
the scene of action ; but old Ksempfer, who, though in the Dutch service as 
a physician, was by birth a Grerman, affirms positively that the Dutch were 
active as belligerents. Fraissinet (a recent French writer) endeavors to give 
a different coloring to the fact, but, as we think, in vain. He represents the 
case as one of political rebellion, in which the native Christians took sides 
with the rebels ; and is pleased to consider the Dutch as allies merely of the 
Emperor, carrying on a lawful war as allies ; and he says that the archives 
of the Dutch factory at Dezima, as well as the relations of natives of respec- 
tability, acquit the Hollanders of all blame. What the archives of the 
Dezima factory may now state, we have not the means of knowing, and we 
are not furnished by the French apologist with their language ; but it is 
certainly very remarkable, if they do not contain exculpatory evidence, that 
the Dutch writers, all of whom were officials at Dezima, and many of whom 
lived much nearer to the time of the transaction than an author of this day, 
should have overlooked this evidence ; particularly when some of them seek 



40 INTKODUCTION. 

to palliate the act itself. Surely tlie Dezima records were open to Fischer, the 
last Dutch writer on the subject, (1833;) why, then, instead of producing 
them, does he admit the fact, and urge in extenuation compulsion of the 
Dutch by the Japanese ? As to the relations of respectable natives, we can 
only say we have never seen, in any work on Japan, such relations as M. 
Fraissinet has named. But there is one fact which, as it seems to us, con- 
clusively negatives the supposition that it was a mere political insurrection 
which the Dutch assisted in suppressing. Over the vast common grave in 
which these unhappy Christians were buried at Simabara was set up, by 
imperial order, the following impious inscription : " So long as the sun 
shall warm the earth, let no Christian be so bold as to come to Japan ; and 
let all know that the King of Spain himself, or the Christian's God, or 
the great God of all, if he violate this command, shall pay for it with his 
head." 

And now, as to what respectable natives really did say about this sad 
transaction, let us hear one who was on the spot, honest old Kacmpfer. He 
was the physician in the Datch service, and thus writes : " By this submis- 
sive readiness to assist the Emperor in the execution of his designs, with 
regard to the final destruction of Christianity in his dominions, it is true, 
indeed, that we stood our ground so far as to maintain ourselves in the 
countr}^, and to be permitted to carry on our trade, although the court had 
then some thoughts of the total exclusion of all foreigners whatsoever. But 
many generous and noble persons at court, and in the country, judged 
unfavorably of our conduct. It seemed to them inconsistent with reason 
that the Dutch should ever be expected to be faithful to a foreign monarch, 
and one, too, whom they looked upon as a heathen, while they showed so 
much forwardness to assist him in the destruction of a people with whom 
they agreed in the most essential parts of their faith, (as the Japanese had 
been well informed by the Portuguese monks,) and to sacrifice to their own 
worldly interest those who followed Christ in the very same way, and hoped 
to enter the Kingdom of Heaven through the same gate. These are expres- 
sions luhich I often heard from, the natives when the conversation happened 
to turn upon this mournful subject. In short, by our humble complaisance 
and connivance, we were so far from bringing this proud and jealous nation 
to any greater confidence, or more intimate friendship, that on the contrary, 
their jealousy and mistrust seemed to increase from that time. They both 
hated and despised us for what we had done." This, then, is the testimony 
as to the opinion of the natives who knew something of the occurrences ; and 
it is a sad reflection, that, i i the work of excluding Christianity from Japan, 
Romanists and Protestants alike bore their part. Neither can, with justice, 
reproach the other. If the worldliness and pride of the Portuguese Chris- 
tian prompted him to conspiracy, and drove him and his companions from 
the Empire, the avarice and cruelty of the Dutch professed believer finished 



INTRODUCTION. 41 

the work, and extirpated the last remnant of the faith in the destruction of 
the native followers of Christ. True Christianity indignantly disowns both. 
In 1641, the Dutch were ordered to remove their factory from Firando, 
where they were comfortable and unrestrained, and to confine themselves to 
the now forsaken station of the Portuguese at Dezima, a miserable little 
island in the port of Nagasaki, " more like a prison than a factory," says 
Ksempfer. Here they were placed under a surveillance the most rigid, and 
subjected to many a humiliating degradation. " So great " (says our honest 
old G-erman) " was the covetousness of the Dutch, and so strong the alluring 
power of the Japanese gold, that rather than quit the prospect of a trade, 
(indeed, most advantageous,) they willingly underwent an almost perpetual 
imprisonment, for such, in fact, is our residence at Dezima, and chose to 
suffer many hardships in a foreign and heathen country ; to be remiss in 
performing divine service on Sundays and solemn festivals; to leave off 
praying and singing of psalms; entirely to avoid the sign of the cross, 
the calling upon the name of Christ in the presence of the natives, and all 
the outer signs of Christianity ; and, lastly, patiently and submissively to 
bear the abusive and injurious behavior of these proud infidels towards us, 
than which nothing can be offered more shocking to a noble and generous 
mind." And to such humiliation have they submitted even to this day. 
Dezima is shaped like a fan ; and the island is, for the most part, of artificial 
construction. Its greatest length is about 600 feet, and its greatest breadth 
about 240. A small stone bridge connects it with the town of Nagasaki ; 
at the end of this bridge there is always stationed a strong Japanese guard, 
and no one passes either to or from the island without license. The whole 
island is surrounded with a high fence, on the top of which are placed iron 
spikes. Two water gates, on the north side of the island, are opened to let 
in the Dutch ships when they arrive, and are at all times kept shut save at 
the ingress and egress of these vessels. The Dutch are not permitted to 
build a house of stone on the island, and their miserable habitations are of 
fir wood and bamboo. The island has on it, at all times, Japanese spies, in 
the situations of interpreters, clerks, servants, &c., whom the Dutch are 
obliged to pay; and is beside subject at any moment to the intrusion of the 
police of Nagasaki. In short, a more annoying and thorough system of 
imprisonment and espionage was never devised. 

When a ship arrives, the first act is to take out of her all her guns and 
ammunition. She is then searched in every part, and an exact list is made 
of the goods and everything else she has on board. The crew are then per- 
mitted to land on Dezima, where they are kept, as long as the ship remains, 
under the inspection of guards. Every Japanese ofiicial, whose business is 
with the Dutch at the factory, is bound twice or thrice in a year to take a 
solemn oath of renunciation and hatred of the Christian religion, and is 
made to trample under his feet crosses and crucifixes. It is not true, how- 



42 INTRODUCTION. 

ever, as has been stated, that the Dutch also are required to perforin this 
act ; hut they dare not say openly that they are Christians. A story is told 
of one who, in the time of the great persecution at Nagasaki, being asked 
by the Japanese police "if he were a Christian," replied : "No! I am a 
Dutchman." With such an exhibition of Christianity, who wonders that 
the Japanese despise it. 

Formerly the chief of the factory, with the physician and some other offi- 
cials at Dezima, visited the Emperor at Jeddo annually, and made to him 
costly presents. The visit is now quadrennial. On these occasions the 
Europeans had an opportunity of seeing and knowing something of Japan ; 
and almost all they have published to the world has been gathered in these 
periodical journeys to the capital. The story, however, is so uniform, that 
we are constrained to believe there is a well defined class of objects and sub- 
jects with which alone the strangers are permitted to come into communica- 
tion. 

Kaempfer says that in his time (1690-92) the Dutch were allowed, while 
the ships were away, once or twice in the year, to walk into the country in 
the neighborhood of Nagasaki; but they were always objects of suspicion 
and surrounded by spies. At present, (as we learn from Siebold,) if a mem- 
ber of the factory wishes such recreation, he must petition the governor of 
Nagasaki twenty-four hours beforehand ; leave is granted, but the Dutchman 
is accompanied by a swarm of interpreters, policemen, (banyoos, as they are 
called,) and other official spies to the number of some twenty-five or thirty 
persons. Each of these, too, may invite as many of his acquaintance as he 
pleases, and the unfortunate Dutchman must entertain them all. This heavy 
expense is doubtless designed by the Japanese to prevent the members of 
the factory from leaving Dezima. Nothing is more obvious than that the 
Japanese, as a people, have but little respect for the Dutch. Thus, when 
one of the factory goes out on leave, the boys follow him in a crowd, hooting 
and shouting, Holanda I Holanda ! or, as they pronounce it, Horanda ! 
Horanda! The gentleman, in pursuit of pleasure and the picturesque, is 
not allowed to enter any private residence during his ramble, and he must 
be back at Dezima by sunset. If a Dutchman, at any time, wishes to visit 
a private acquaintance, or is invited by an inhabitant of Nagasaki to partake 
of his hospitality, he must present a petition to the governor, and obtain 
special permission to go ; while on the visit, he is surrounded by spies as usual. 
And to all this humiliation, the Dutch have submitted, for more than two 
hundred years, for the purpose of securing the monopoly of the Japanese 
trade ! 

THE ENGLISH. 

We must now remind the reader of the letters written by William 
Adams, one of which was addressed to any of his countrymen in the east 



INTRODUCTION. 43 

into whose hands Providence might cause it to fall. Adams was, in truth, 
the founder of the English as he had been of the Dutch trade. The letters 
he wrote reached Batavia, and were thence sent to London, where they were 
submitted to a corporation then known as the " "Worshipful Fellowship of 
the Merchants of London, trading into the East Indies," but in later times 
by the far more celebrated name of the " Honorable East India Company." 
No time was lost by the corporation in dispatching a ship for Japan, and 
Purchas has preserved for us the history of the voyage. The vessel was 
called the Clove, and was commanded by Captain John Saris, who had al- 
ready made several voyages to the east. Taking on board such a cargo as 
was deemed suitable, and furnished with a letter from King James I. to the 
Prince of Firando, and one also, with presents, to the Emperor, Saris left 
England on the 18th of April, 1611, and stopping and trading at various 
places on the way, reached Firando on the 11th of June, 1613, when the 
English met with a most friendly reception from the natives. 

Saris found on his arrival that Adams was at Jeddo, nearly 900 miles 
distant, and immediately put himself in communication with him, desiring 
him to repair at once to Firando. Until he came he carried on his confer- 
ences with the Japanese, by means of a native of the country whom he had 
picked up at Bantam, and who spoke the Malay language, which Saris un- 
derstood. Saris delivered the King's letter to the Prince of Firando, Foyne 
Sama, who received it with pride, but would not open it until Adams (whom 
they called Ange) should arrive to interpret it. The Prince also sent intel- 
ligence to the Emperor of the arrival of the Clove. 

On the 29th of July, Adams arrived, and Saris conferred with him on the 
subject of trade ; and let us hope he had also something to tell him of his 
wife and children. Early in August, Saris left Firando for Jeddo, having in 
his company Adams and ten other Englishmen. The purpose of the visit 
was to offer to the Emperor the presents of the English King, and to nego- 
tiate a treaty. The Prince of Firando furnished the party with one of his 
own galleys of fifty oars. Saris gives us the particulars of his journey, 
which are not without interest, especially as it respects the manners and 
customs of the people, which (as there were no restrictions on the inter- 
course with foreigners, and as he had Adams for a companion) he had ample 
opportunity of seeing under the most favorable circumstances. At length he 
had an interview with the Emperor, by whom he was graciously received, 
and from whom, after some little negotiation between Saris and the 
Emperor's secretary, he obtained privileges of trade, as follows : 

" 1. We give free license to the subjects of the King of Great Britain, 
viz : Sir Thomas Smith, governor, and the company of the East Indian 
merchants and adventurers, forever safely to come into any of our ports of 
our Empire of Japan, with their ships and merchandise, without any hin- 
drance to them or their goods; and to abide, buy, sell, and barter, according 



44 IXTEODUCTION. 

to their own manner with all nations ; to tarry here as long as they think 
good, and to depart at their pleasure. 

' 2. We grant unto them freedom of custom for all such merchandises as 
either now they have brought, or hereafter shall bring into our Kingdoms, 
or shall from hence transport to any foreign part ; and do authorize those 
ships that hereafter shall arrive and come from England to proceed to pre- 
sent sale of their commodities, without further coming or sending up to our 
30urt. 

" 3. If any of their ships shall happen to be in danger of shipwreck, we 
will our subjects not only to assist them, but that such part of ship and 
goods as shall be saved be returned to their captain or cape merchant, or 
their assigns. And that they shall or may build one house or more for 
themselves in any part of our Empire where they shall think fittest, and at 
their departure to make sale thereof at their pleasure, 

" 4. If any of the English merchants or others shall depart this life 
within our dominions, the goods of the deceased shall remain at the dispose 
of the cape merchant ; and that all offences committed by them shall be 
punished by the said cape merchant, according to his discretion ; and our 
laws to take no hold of their persons or goods. 

" 5. We will that ye our subjects trading with them for any of their 
commodities pay them for the same, according to agreement, without delay, 
or return of their wares again unto them. 

" 6. For such commodities as they have now brought, or shall hereafter 
bring, fitting for our service and proper use, we will that no arrest be made 
thereof; but that the price be made with the cape merchant, according as 
they may sell to others, and present payment upon the delivery of the goods. 
" 7. If in discovery of other countries for trade, and return of their 
ships they shall need men or victuals, we will that ye our subjects furnish 
them for their money as their need shall require. 

" 8. And that, without other passport, they shall and may set out upon 
the discovery of Jesso or any other part in or about our Empire." 

These certainly were privileges of the most liberal kind, and conclusively 
show that the original policy of Japan was not at all one of exclusion ; and 
that Europeans may thank themselves for the introduction of that rigorous 
system which has so long shut her ports against the commerce of nearly all 
the civilized world. The Japanese, when they discovered that foreigners 
were conspiring to take their country from them, did not choose to permit 
it ; and, as the shortest mode of preventing it, sent out such foreigners as 
were in the country, and forbade any more to come in. Now, whatever 
doubts may be entertained as to the wisdom or expediency of such a remedy, 
no sane man will question the right, or find fault with the desire, of the 
Japanese to keep Japan for themselves. If, unfortunately, some of the con- 
spirators were European ecclesiastics, they justly paid the penalty of expul- 



INTRODUCTION. 45 

sion from the kingdom for making their religion a part of their politics. 
The blunder was their own, not that of the Japanese. 

The Emperor also sent by Captain Saris the following letter to the King 
of England : 

" To the King' of Great Britain : 

" Your Majesty's kind letter sent me by your servant, Captain John 
Saris, (who is the first that I have known to arrive in any part of my domin- 
ions,) I heartly embrace, being not a little glad to understand of your great 
wisdom and power, as having three plentiful and mighty kingdoms under your 
powerful command. I acknowledge your Majesty's great bounty in sending 
me so undeserved a present of many rare things, such as my land affordeth 
not, neither have I ever before seen, which I receive not as from a stranger, 
but as from your Majesty, whom I esteem as myself. Desiring the contin- 
uance of friendship with your highness — and that it may stand with your 
good liking to send your subjects to any part or port of my dominions, where 
they shall be most heartily welcome, applauding much their worthiness in 
the admirable knowledge of navigation, having with much facility discovered 
a country so remote, being no whit amazed with the distance of so mighty a 
gulf, nor greatness of such infinite clouds and storms, from prosecuting honor- 
able enterprises of discoveries and merchandising — wherein they shall find 
me to further them according to their desires. I return unto your Majesty 
a small token of my love, (by your said subject,) desiring you to accept 
thereof, as from him that much rejoiceth in your friendship. And whereas 
your Majesty's subjects have desired certain privileges for trade, and settling 
of a factory in my dominions, I have not only granted what they demanded, 
but have confirmed the same unto them under my broad seal for better 
establishing thereof. 

" From my castle in Surunga, this fourth day of the ninth month, in the 
eighteenth year of our Dairi, according to our computation. Resting 
your Majesty's friend. The highest commander in this Kingdom of 
Japan. 

" MINNA, MONTTONO. Yei, ye, yeas.'' 

[lyeyas.] 

Three years after this, in 1616, a slight modification was made in the 
grant of privileges, without, however, injuriously afi'ecting the commercial 
interest of England. The ships were directed, upon arriving on the coast, 
to repair to Firando, and carry on all their trade at their factory there. 
They might, however, in case of opposing winds or bad weather, enter and 
stay in any harbor of the Kingdom without paying anchorage duties, and 
though they could not sell, they might freely buy any necessaries their ships 
required. When Saris returned to England, he left in charge of the factory 
he had established at Firando Mr. Eichard Cockes, Avho had under his direc- 



46 INTRODUCTION. 

tion eight Englislimeii, tliree Japanese interpreters, and two native servants. 
Among tlie Englishmen was Adams, whom the company were very glad to 
employ at a liberal salary. The Protestant factories — Dutch and English — 
were thus neighbors at Firando, while the Portuguese were at Dazima, in the 
harbor of Nagasaki, and bore them no good will. 

The English, however, soon gained the friendship and confidence of the 
natives, and Cockes paid more than one visit to the Emperor at Jeddo. He 
remained in the country many years, and, as it would appear from his letters, 
(printed in Purchas,) had ultimately trouble with his Dutch neighbors, who 
seem to us, at least, to have systematically acted, from the first hour of ob- 
taining foothold in Japan, upon the policy of driving away all European 
traders but themselves. It is a policy from which (notwithstanding their 
professions) we think they have never swerved. 

The English company, it is probable, made an injudicious selection of 
merchandise for shipment to Japan ; at any rate, from this or some other 
cause, certain it is that the business did not prove remunerative ; and, dis- 
couraged by this and some other circumstances, the company, in 1623, after 
an expenditure of £40,000, voluntarily closed their factory at Firando, and 
withdrew from the country. But they left with an unstained reputation, and 
departed with the esteem of the higher classes and the regrets of the more 
humble. It is useless to indulge in conjecture as to what might have been 
the present condition of Japan had they remained. Possibly, long ere this, 
she mio-ht have had commercial relations established with the rest of the 
world. The departure of the English took place before th«j bloody persecu- 
tion of the Christians reached its height. They left native Christians in 
Japan ; we are not prepared to believe they would ever have deliberately 
assisted in their extermination. It was, perhaps, fortunate for them that 
they were out of the Kingdom before the bombardment of Simabara. 

Thirteen years after the abandonment of their factory, the English were 
disposed to make a new attempt. Accordingly, four vessels were dispatched, 
but they were ungraciously received at Nagasaki, the only port then open 
to foreigners, and occupied by the Dutch, and they returned without accom- 
plishing their object. The Dutch were now becoming all-powerful in the 
east ; established on the ruins of the Portuguese dominion at Amboyna and 
Timor, fortified in Batavia, masters of the Moluccas, Ceylon, the coasts of 
Malabar and Coromandel, they were not likely to admit a rival among them, 
and to them the English, without doubt justly, attributed the failure of this 
attempt to re-establish themselves in Japan. 

But they deemed it best, for a time, to keep still ; dark days were coming 
upon England; the country had to pass through the civil wars that marked 
the reio;n of the first Charles. It was no time to undertake bold commercial 
enterprises. The East India Company consequently did but little more 
for many years than keep up an intercourse with Bantam. They wanted a 



INTRODUCTION. 47 

time of peace and a firmly settled government before tliey made further 
efforts. 

At length, in 1673, the company renewed its efforts to re-enter Japan. 
It had received a fresh and much enlarged grant of powers from the King, 
and was in fact made little less than a sovereign power in the east. The 
ship that was now sent was called the " Return." A journal, as yet unpub- 
lished, was kept of the voyage ; and Fraissinet says it is now in the posses- 
sion of the Southwell family at London. He has had access to it, and 
furnishes us with many interesting extracts ; observing very justly that it 
strikingly illustrates three particulars — the remarkable circumspection of 
the Japanese, their extreme opposition to the introduction of any strangers 
among them, and, above all, their unappeasable hatred of the Portuguese. 

Charles II., it will be remembered, had married a princess of Braganza, 
and was therefore allied to the royal family of Portugal ; and the Dutch 
were by no means backward in communicating this fact to the Japanese. 
Accordingly, on the appearance of the English ship in the Japanese waters, 
she was, from this cause alone, viewed with unusual suspicion. We give 
from the journal alluded to above, or rather from the French version of it, 
some of the conversations between the English and the Japanese ofl&cials. 

" Are you English ? " 

" Yes. We have come here with the permission of our sovereign, the 
King of England, to carry on trade for the East India Company, and 
re-establish the commerce which our countrymen commenced with you and 
left fifty years ago. We have letters from our King, and from the company, 
to his Majesty the Emperor of Japan; " and with this was handed to the 
Japanese commissioner a copy of the privileges of trade already set before 
the reader. This was written in the Japanese character. 

The governor next charged the interpreter to ask " if England was at 
peace with Portugal and Spain; if our King had been long married to the 
daughter of the King of Portugal ; whether there were any children of the 
marriage ; what was our religion, and what sort of merchandise we had ?" 

We answered that just now we are at peace with all the world ; that 
our King had been married eleven years; that the Qaeen had no children; 
that we were Christians as the Dutch were, but not papists. As to our 
merchandise, the cargo of the ship was a general one. 

At the next interview, the governor said, "it is fifty years since the 
English were here ; we should like to know the reason of your long absence." 
The civil wars of England, two wars with Holland, and the expense and 
danger of so long a voyage were assigned as reasons and seemed to be satis' 
factory. The questioning then proceeded : 

" Have you none among you who have been in this country before ? " 

" Not one." 

" How, then, were you able to find your way here ? " 



48 INTRODUCTION. 

" By means of marine charts wliicli guided us." 

" What is the religion of the Portuguse ? Is it not called Roman Cath- 
olic ? have they not the image of a woman whom they call Santa Maria, 
and of a man named Santo Ghristo ^ do not they worship these images ? 
and how many other saints have they ? " 

" We cannot answer the last question, not knowing enough of the Ro- 
man religion to do so." 

" What is your own worship ? Have you also images like the Portu- 
guese ? " 

" No. We are of the reformed religion, which is like that of the Dutch. 
We offer our prayers to none but to Almighty God, the creator of heaven 
and earth, who fills all things with his presence. We never make any image 
or figure to represent him." 

" Can you tell me who is that Santo Christo, and who is that Santa 
Maria r' 

" We call the first the son of Grod, and the last the Virgin Mary ; but 
we never offer prayers to the Virgin." 

" How do the Dutch worship Grod ? " 

" I have told you, as we do." 

" What do they call him ? " 

« They call him aoD." 

" And the Christ ? " 

" They call him Christ." 

" What name do you Dutch and English give to the religion of the Por- 
tuguese ? " 

" We give the name of the ' Roman Catholic religion." 

" And what to those who profess it ? " 

" We call them papists, Romans, Roman Catholics." 

'' What do the Portuguese call you ? " 

^^ Her eyes in their language, in ours heretics.'^'' 

Just at this moment the British flag was hoisted, when instantly the 
question was put : 

" Why do you hoist your flag to-day, and why have you not done it every 
day since you came in ? " 

" To-day is our Sabbath, and it is our custom always to hoist our flag 
on the return of the seventh day." 

" At what times in the day do you pray ? " 

" Every morning and evening." 

" And the Dutch, do they the same ? " 

" Certainly." 

But the St. G-eorge's cross in the flag troubled the Japanese, and they 
made it the suject of many inquiries, desiring to know why it was there. 

" We do not carry the cross in our colors from superstition, nor does i 



INTKODUCTION. 49 

liave any religious meaning there. It is nothing more than our distinctive 
sign. Beside, our flag and cross and those of the Portuguese are very dif- 
ferent." 

" Have you ever been under the dominion of Portugal or Spain ? " 
" Never. Our sovereign is king of three great States. He is a prince 
much more powerful than the King of Portugal." 

" Is it not then from either of these nations that you have received your 



cross 



9 " 



" We have had it from time immemorial; for six centuries at least." 
Notwithstanding all these explanations, however, the Japanese officers, 
not by command, but privately and as friends, advised the English not to 
hoist the flag with the cross, as a great many of the people mistook it for the 
Portuguese standard. At length the answer came from the Emperor, to 
whom had been referred the English application for a renewal of trade. 

" We have received letters from the Emperor. Your request, as well as 
the reasons by which you enforced it, have been duly considered. But you 
cannot be allowed to trade here, because your King has married the daughter 
of the King of Portugal. That is the only reason why your request is re- 
fused. The Emperor orders that you depart and come back no more. Such 
is his will, and we cannot change it in any particular. You will therefore 
make sail with the first favorable wind, and at the latest within twenty days." 
" It is impossible for us to leave before the trade winds change." 
" In that case how much time do you wish us to grant you ? " 
" Forty-five days ; for in that time I suppose we shall have a change." 
The English asked permission at least to sell their cargo before going. 
" The Emperor forbids it ; we dare not disobey. It is your unfortunate 
alliance with Portugal which stands in your way." 

And thus ended this attempt to revive the English trade. It may be 
that other causes beside the Portuguese marriage operated ; and of these the 
Dutch, it cannot be doubted, would gladly avail themselves ; but if there 
were no other, then it is quite certain that the Hollanders, by communicating 
this unpropitious fact to the Japanese, were the sole cause of the exclusion 
of the English. And such was the opinion of all on board the "Return." 

More than a century elapsed, after this unsuccessful experiment, before 
the English made another attempt; but in 1791, the " Argonaut," which was 
employed in the fur trade, on the northwestern coast of America, made an 
effort to barter with the Japanese. On the arrival of the vessel, however, 
she was immediately surrounded, according to the usual custom, by lines of 
boats, and no communication was allowed between the ship and the shore. 
All that was obtained was wood and water, and with these the " Argonaut " 
took her departure. 

In 1803 the " Frederick," an English merchantman, was sent from Cal- 
cutta with a cargo to Japan, but was refused admittance to the harbor, and 
4 



50 INTRODUCTION. 

was ordered to depart witliin twenty-four hours. This unceremonious treat- 
ment of the English was, undoubtedly, owing to the Dutch. England had 
made great conquests in India, and securely established her power in the 
east ; some of these conquests, too, were made at the expense of the Dutch. 
Under Clive and Warren Hastings all the fond anticipations the Hollanders 
had formed of a foothold in India had been dissipated. They could not ac- 
complish their wishes, but they could use the very triumphs of their rivals 
as an instrument in defeating the English efforts to increase their trade. 
This was to be effected by awakening the jealousy and alarming the appre- 
hensions of the Japanese. These last were uncommonly well informed of 
the progress of events in India, from the time of Clive downward. Where 
could they have learned them but from the Dutch ? The Hollanders told 
the story with such coloring as suited them ; whitewashing their own disgraces 
and defeats, and covering with blackness the acts of their successful rivals. 
They thus taught the Japanese to form an idea of the English character and 
ambition perfectly fatal to the establishment of friendly relations. And, un- 
fortunately, in many instances, (one of which, in Japan, we shall detail di- 
rectly,) the English were furnishing them, from time to time, with abundant 
material. We do not mean to apologise for England's misdoings in the east ; 
but we do mean to impute to the Dutch the seeming pursuit, from the very be- 
ginning, of a uniform system of policy which, whether it be so or not, appears, 
at least, to have sought the exclusion of Portuguese, English, Americans, and 
every other commercial nation in Christendom, from any participation in the 
trade with Japan, of which, at the price of a servility utterly unworthy of the 
noble deeds of Holland's past history, she had procured the monopoly. 

The next English visit we have to record is that of an armed ship-of-war, 
in 1808. In October of that year an European vessel, with Dutch colors, 
appeared off Nagasaki. It was the time when the usual Dutch trader was 
expected, and M. Doeff was then director of the factory at Dezima. Suppo- 
sing it to be the expected annual trader from Batavia, two of the employes 
of the factory, one of whom was a book-keeper, named Gozeman, put off to 
the ship ; according to Doeff's account, the native interpreters, who never 
went on board, reported on their return that the ship's boat put off on the 
approach of the boat containing the two Dutch clerks, as if to meet them 
and that the crew of the ship's boat had weapons concealed on their persons, 
The Japanese boat, with the interpreters, was astern of that from the factory, 
As the boats approached, that of the Dutchmen was boarded from the other 
and the two employes were forcibly carried, as prisoners, on board the ship, 
Be this as it may, certain it is that Gozeman and his companion did not re 
turn, and that they were detained on board of the strange vessel. The Japa- 
nese could not conceal their astonishment, nor understand how Hollanders, in 
that part of the Kingdom where they -were permitted to be, and lawfully 
employed, too, could be thus treated by men sailing under the Dutch flag. 



INTRODUCTION. 51 

Doeff, however, instantly, suspected that the vessel was English, and he knew 
that war then existed between his own country and England. 

The governor of Nagasaki, enraged beyond measure, had driven the Jap- 
anese interpreters from his presence, and bade them not dare appear before 
him again without Grozeman and his companion ; and instantly set about 
making preparations for repelling a warlike attack. But, to his horror, he 
discovered that, at a strong point on the harbor, where there should have 
been a garrison of a thousand men, nearly all were absent without leave ; the 
commander was away, and not more than sixty or seventy soldiers could be 
mustered. Though it was not the governor's duty to command this point in 
person, yet to him belonged its oversight ; and from the moment he discov- 
ered its condition he considered himself as a dead man. 

At eleven o'clock that night, Doeff received a note in the hand- writing 
of one of the detained Dutchmen, in these words : " The ship has come from 
Bengal. The captain's name is Pellew ; he wants water and provisions." 
The vessel was H. M. S. Phgeton, belonging to the squadron of Admiral 
Drury, cruising in the eastern seas. As we have said, England was at war 
with Holland, which at that time was a mere dependency of France. The 
Admiral had ordered Captain Fleetwood Pellew to cruise off the Japanese 
islands, for the purpose of intercepting the Dutch traders of Nagasaki. Cap- 
tain Pellew, after cruising for a month, supposed that the Dutch vessels 
might have reached the harbor of Nagasaki, and put in to that port in the 
hope of finding them there. 

Doeff did not dare to send off water and provisions without the concurrence 
of the Japanese governor ; and when the latter asked his advice about acce- 
ding to the request, he declined giving it, and said he could give no support 
to any request made by one whom he now knew to be the enemy of his 
country. 

In the midst of the embarrassment and confusion of the poor governor, 
his first secretary made his appearance to submit a proposition, strikingly 
characteristic of some of the traits of Japanese character : " This," said he, 
" is my plan. The foreign ship has entrapped the Dutchmen by treachery ; 
therefore, all means are lawful to punish the treachery. I will contrive, then, 
to go on board alone under the guise of friendly professions. I will demand 
of the captain the two Dutchmen ; if he will not surrender them, I will strike 
him dead, and then immediately kill myself with a dagger which I will con- 
ceal in my bosom. I know that assassination is repugnant to our national 
character ; but the English commander, who has thus dishonorably invaded 
our country to attack those whose flag he has usurped for his protection, is 
worthy of no better fate. In short, to punish him, I am quite willing to 
sacrifice my life." 

M. Doeff, however, represented to him that the consequence of this plan 
would certainly be his own death, and probably that of the two Dutchmen 



52 INTRODUCTION. 

on board the ship ; and tlie governor concurring in this view, the secretary 
abandoned his desperate scheme. 

The plan next considered, was to detain the ship on one pretext or 
another, until the forces of the neighboring princes could be collected for an 
attack. In the course of the day, however, Gozeman was sent on shore with 
a note, as follows • " I have ordered my own boat to set Grozeman on shore to 
procure me water and provisions. If he does not return before evening, I 
will enter the harbor early to-morrow morning, and burn the Japanese and 
Chinese vessels that may be there." 

Gozeman^s story was, that when he was taken on board, he demanded to 
see the commander, whereupon he was carried before a youth, seemingly 
some eighteen or nineteen years old, who, taking him into the cabin, asked 
him whether there were any Dutch ships in Japan, threatening him with 
the severest punishment if he should deceive him. Gozeman told him 
truly, that the Dutch ships had not arrived that year. The commander, 
however, pretended to know better ; accused the Dutchman of having 
spoken untruly, and said he would enter the harbor and see for himself, and, 
in case he found any, Gozeman might consider himself a dead man. Accor- 
dingly, he did enter in his boat, and made examination, and on his return, 
told Gozeman it was fortunate for him that his statement had been found 
true. He then sent him on shore with the note given above, instructing him 
to return, whether he obtained the supplies or not, and informing him that if 
he did not come back, his companion, who was kept on board, should be 
hanged. 

The governor was transported with rage when he heard this story, but 
was finally induced by what Doefi" said to him, to send off water and provi- 
sions by Gozeman. Soon after the two Dutchmen were sent on shore in 
safety. And now the Japanese governor employed himself in taking 
measures to detain the ship (as was his duty) until the pleasure of the 
government could be known. But how to do this was a question not very 
easy of solution. Doeff was again consulted, when he did not conceal the 
difficulty, not to say the impossibility, of the capture by the Japanese of a 
British frigate, in a perfect state of warlike equipment. One plan was 
suggested by the prince of Omura, who promised to take the lead in its 
execution, and the Japanese by no means lacked the courage necessary to 
attempt it. They are a brave race. The plan was to man three hundred 
boats loaded with reeds and straw and other combustibles, to surround the 
frigate and burn her. The calculation was that if the English destroyed 
two hundred of the boats, enough would still be left to effect the object. 
The rowers were to save themselves by swimming. 

But Doeff advised another course. He recommended to the governor to 
amuse the commander of the ship by promises of water the next day, so as 
to detain him as long as possible, and to improve the time by causing a 



INTRODUCTION. 53 

number of native boats to go with stones and throw them into the narrow 
channel by which alone the ship could pass out to the open sea. This he 
hoped could be done, without discovery by the English, in the course of the 
next day and night ; and the work was ordered ; but before anything was 
accomplished, a favorable wind sprung up, and the Phaeton stood out to sea. 

MacFarlane thinks that, anywhere but in Japan, the whole affair, having 
terminated bloodlessly, would have been laughed at as a clever ruse de 
guerre ; but it was no matter for mirth to the unfortunate Japanese officials. 
The law of the Kingdom had been broken, and the consequence was inevit- 
able. In half an hour after the ship made sail, the governor of Nagasaki 
was dead by his own hand ; he had followed the custom of the country and 
disembowelled himself The officers of the neglected garrison did the same 
thing ; the interpreters were ordered to Jeddo, and never were seen again 
in Nagasaki ; nor could the Dutch ever learn their fate ; and this " laughahW'' 
ruse cost no less than thirteen Japanese lives. The governor of the province 
(Fizen) was the officer who had supreme command of the troops that belonged 
to the garrison; and was, at the time of the Phaeton's arrival, residing, com- 
pulsorily, in the distant capital, (Jeddo,) yet was he punished by an 
imprisonment of one hundred days for the delinquency of his subordinate 
officers. The visit of the British frigate therefore brought in its train very 
sad consequences, creating very strong prejudices ag linst the English, and 
to this hour it is remembered in Japan with embittered feelings. 

Five years had elapsed after the visit of the English frigate before 
another attempt was made. During that period the wars of Europe had 
cut off the Dutch at Dezima, not only from communication with Holland 
and her colonies, but with all the rest of the world. They were in profound 
ignorance of all that had passed in this interval outside of Japan. 

In July, 1813, they heard with joy that two European ships under the 
Dutch flag were off the port. They showed also the private Dutch signal, so 
that M. Doeff had no doubt they were the long expected vessels that had 
come from Batavia for the annual trade. Letters also were sent on shore 
to the factory, from which he learned that M. Waardenar, formerly president 
of the factory, and under whose patronage and friendship M. Doeff had com- 
menced his career as an employe at Dezima, was on board one of the ships in 
the capacity of commissary of the government, with his secretary and phy- 
sician; and that on board the other was M. Cassa, accompanied by three as- 
sistants, and charged to replace M. Doeff. 

Immediately the storekeeper, Blomhoff, with another of the Dezima 
officials, (they had but three left in the whole factory,) put off to meet the 
ships; and, on their return, Blomhoff told Doeff that M. Waardenar was 
indeed on board, and that the Dutch captain, Voorman, who had often been 
to Dezima before commanded ; " but," added he, " everything aboard wore 
a strange aspect ; and the commissary, instead of confiding to me, as usual, 



54 INTKODUCTION. 

the papers from the government, said he would deliver them to you in 
person." Presently the vessels came into the harbor; and as all the crew 
spoke English, the Japanese, who had been accustomed to hear that language 
since 1795, concluded that the vessels were American, and that they had 
been hired at Batavia by the Dutch, who they knew had sometimes sought 
to carry on their commerce, without risk of capture, under the flag of the 
United States. To ascertain the truth, M. Doeff himself went on board, 
when M. Waardenar met him with evident embarrassment, and handed him 
a letter. The Dutch director saw that there was something not yet intelli- 
gible to him, and prudently declined opening the letter until he should reach 
the factory, whither he soon returned accompanied by Waardenar and his 
secretary. 

When they reached Dezima, Doeff opened the letter in the presence of 
Blomhoff and of Waardenar, and his secretary. It was signed " Raffles, 
Lieutenant-Grovernor of Java and its Dependencies," and announced that M. 
Waardenar was appointed commissary in Japan, with supreme power over 
the factory. The poor director was utterly bewildered. In his long isola- 
tion great events, and among them the utter absorption of his own nation 
into that of France, and the subjugation of all the Dutch colonies, had 
occurred ; and he asked in amazement, " Who is Raffles ? " Then was 
opened to him the last five years of European history, and he learned that 
Holland no longer had an independent national existence, and that Java 
belonged to England ; that Sir Stamford Raffles, who ruled there, had 
oppointed Waardenar and Dr. Ainslie, an Englishman, as commissioners in 
Japan, and required of him a surrender of everything into their hands. It 
was an ingenious but most hazardous attempt on the part of Raffles to 
transfer the trade which the Dutch had so long monopolized to the hands of 
the English. 

Doeff instantly refused compliance, on the ground that Japan was no 
dependency of Java, and could not be affected by any capitulation the Dutch 
might have made on the surrender of that island ; and further, that if Java 
was now an English island, then the order to him came from an authority to 
which he, as a Dutchman, acknowledging no allegiance to England, certainly 
owed no obedience. Doeff, who was exceedingly shrewd, saw also in an 
instant that the ships and crew were completely at his mercy. He had but 
to tell the Japanese the facts he had just learned, and, exasperated as they 
were by the affair of the Phaston, the destruction of the ships and their crews 
would inevitably follow. He saw his advantage, and shaped his course ac- 
cordingly. Fraissinet (who in his work on Japan is very much of an apolo- 
gist for the Dutch in all cases) represents this conduct on the part of M. 
Doeff as an example of exalted humanity and patriotism ; while MacFar- 
lane intimates that, such was the hatred of Doeff to the English, he would 
probably have denounced the ships to the Japanese but for the fact that M. 



INTKODUCTION. 5 b 

Waardenar was his countryman, his friend, and early benefactor. We can- 
not undertake to arbitrate between these conflicting views, our business is to 
record the fact that, in the exercise either of loyalty, or friendship, or human- 
ity, as the case may be, he contrived to preserve, in all its purity, the high repu ■ 
tation of the Dutch for taking care of their commercial interests in Japan, at 
any expense, particularly when such expense could be made to fall upon 
others. 

The Dutch factory had for five years been without its annual supplies 
from Batavia, and had consequently been obliged to contract a large debt to 
the Japanese for their support during this long period. M. Doeff, after 
working upon the fears of Waardenar and Ainslie by a threat of exposure 
to the Japanese, induced them to enter into an arrangement with him, and 
to bind themselves in writing to the fulfilment of the contract, which was in 
substance this : In the first place, the ships were to be passed off as being Amer- 
ican, employed by the Dutch, for the sake of obtaining the protection of the 
neutral flag of the United States. Secondly, the presence of M. Waardenar, 
well known to the Japanese as a Dutchman, and formerly president of De- 
zima, was to give countenance to this view. Thirdly, M. Doeff demanded 
as a price of holding his tongue, that is, as the price of saving the lives of 
Waardenar and the English, that the cargoes of the two ships should be 
delivered to him, as Dutch factor, in the usual manner ; that he should dis- 
pose of them, and out of the proceeds pay first all that Holland owed the 
Japanese for the supplies of the last five years. The surplus was to be applied 
to the purchase of copper, to load the ships as far as possible, though the 
copper was to be estimated at more than the usual price to the English pur- 
chasers. Finally, it was provided that when the ships reached Batavia and 
sold the copper, twenty-five thousand rix dollars were to be placed to the per- 
sonal credit of M. Doeff. On these terms the Dutch director connived at 
the imposition of a deception upon the Japanese, and successfully managed 
to secure the silence of such of the interpreters as he could not help trusting 
with the secret. The ships were loaded and dispatched as soon as possible, 
and they certainly encountered no small risk while they remained at Dezima ; 
for the son of that governor of Nagasaki who killed himself about the affair 
of the Phaeton was now a man of office and influence at Jeddo, and would 
undoubtedly have availed himself of the opportunity, had he known it ex- 
isted, to avenge his father's death. 

Sir Stamford Raffles is generally supposed by his best friends to have 
made a mistake in sending these ships. If Doeff had surrendered the factory, 
the probability is that as soon as the Japanese discovered it to be transferred, 
and that, too, without consulting them, they would have destroyed Dezima, 
and put all the Enghsh there to death. 

In 1S14, however. Raffles sent Cassa back in one of the ships, (Waarde- 
nar was probably too wise to put his neck into the halter again,) when the 



56 INTRODUCTION. 

same stratagem was resorted to, tlie same commercial profit was secured hy 
the wily Dutchman, and Cassa failed entirely in superseding M. Doeff as direc- 
tor of Dezima. The latter was more than a match for him in the game of 
cunning and trickery by which each sought to countermine the stratagems of 
the other. Doeff kept Dezima : and for a time the flag of Holland floated 
nowhere else in the world but on that distant spot, where it was unfurled by 
sufferance only. At last, after the restoration of the house of Orange, and 
the return of Java to the Dutch, the old trade was resumed, and Doeff was 
succeeded by a new director. 

In 1818, another attempt was made in a little vessel of sixty-five tons, 
that was commanded by Captain Grordon, of the British navy. She en- 
tered the bay of Jeddo, and was immediately surrounded with the usual line 
of boats. Her rudder was unshipped, and all her arms and ammunition were 
taken ashore. The interpreters, one of whom spoke Dutch, and one Russian, 
and both some English, inquired if the Dutch and English were now friends, 
and if the vessel belonged to the -East India Company ? They were quite 
civil, but utterly refused all presents and trade. The last English visit, 
prior to the time of the United States expedition under Commodore Perry, 
was in May, 1849. This was made by H. M. S. " Mariner," under Comman- 
der Matheson. She went to Oragawa, about twenty-five miles from Jeddo, 
but nothing of importance resulted from the visit. 



THE RUSSIANS. 

The efforts of Russia to obtain foothold in Japan commenced in the lat- 
ter part of the last century. Her possessions in Asia, her seizure and occu- 
pation of some of the Kurile islands which belonged to Japan, and her small 
portion of territory in America, in the colony at Sitka, have placed her on 
every side of the Japanese Empire but the south. She has pursued her pol- 
icy noiselessly ; possibly meaning at the proper time to make her communica- 
tions as complete as circumstances will allow between her Asiatic and Amer- 
ican possessions. With Corea, Japan, and the Aleutian islands, stretching 
over to the promontory of Alaska on our northwest coast, and with a strong 
point at Sitka, she might be in a situation to show the world that her plans 
of extension were by no means confined to the limits of the Eastern hemis- 
phere. With harbors on the coast of Eastern Asia and Western xVmerica, 
opening on a sea which must be the seat of an immense and lucrative com- 
merce, she might aim to be a great maritime power, and to rule mistress of 
the Pacific. If she possessed Japan, she would have an abundance of harbors, 
unrivalled in the world for excellency, and with her resources would control the 
commerce of the Pacific. It is not, therefore, the interest of any part of the 
commercial world that Russia should ever own Japan ; but Russia has, doubt- 



INTEODUCTION. 57. 

less, seen the importance to her of its acquisition. If she aims at being a 
commercial nation, the possession of Japan would make her eminently so. 

Some seventy or eighty years ago, a Japanese vessel was wrecked on one 
of the Aleutian islands belonging to Russia. The crew was rescued, and 
was carried to the Russian port of Okotsk, or Irkutzk. But, instead of 
beino- sent home at once, they were detained in Russia ten years. The ob- 
ject undoutedly was, that the Japanese and Russians might learn each others' 
languages. It seemed to be a small matter, but it had a specific end. At 
last, the discovery was made that it would be humane to attempt, at least, 
the return of these poor shipwrecked Japanese to their country. Russia, 
probably, was ignorant that they would be refused admission. Had they 
been sent ten years before, the consequences would ha\e been the same ; but 
Russia did not know this ; and beside, her later effort deprives her of any 
apology for her tardy humanity. 

The Empress Catharine, however, directed the governor of Siberia to 
send them back, and to endeavor through their instrumentality, to establish 
such mutual relations as might tend to the benefit of both nations. He was 
ordered to dispatch an envoy, in his own name, with credentials and suitable 
presents ; and was expressly forbidden to permit any Englishman or Dutch- 
man to be employed in the work. A Russian lieutenant, named Laxman, 
was the agent employed, and in the autumn of 1792, he sailed from Okotsk, 
in a transport ship called the " Catharine." He soon made a harbor on the 
northern coast of the island of Jesso, and there wintered ; in the succeeding 
summer he went round to the southern coast of the same island, and entered 
the harbor of Hakodadi. The Japanese were polite, but refused to take 
back their countrymen, informing Laxman that it was against their laws. 
They also told him that he had subjected himself and his crew, as being 
foreigners, to perpetual imprisonment for landing anywhere in the Kingdom 
except at the appointed port of Nagasaki ; yet, in consideration of the 
Russian ignorance of this law, and of their kindness to the shipwrecked 
Japanese, they would not enforce the law, provided Lieutenant Laxman 
would promise for himself and his countrymen to return immediately to his 
own country, and never again come to any part of Japan but Nagasaki. 

Laxman left wii.hout landing the Japanese, and the Empress Catharine 
made no further attempt during her reig-n. In 1804, her grandson, the 
Emperor Alexander, renewed the effort. A government ship, commanded 
by Krusenstern, was sent to Nagasaki, having on board Resanoff, sent as 
special ambassador to Japan. He had hardly arrived, however, before he 
furnished abundant evidence of his unfitness for the delicate mission with 
which he was intrusted. He commenced his intercourse with the Japanese 
officials by a dispute on a ridiculous point of etiquette, viz : whether he 
should make a bow to the Emperor's representatives. Next he positively 
refused to surrender the arms of the ship, according to the usual custom. 



58 INTRODUCTION. 

though it was perfectly useless to retain them, as he had given up all the 
ammunition to the Japanese. He then very foolishly contrived to convince 
the inmates of the Dutch factory at Dezima, to whom he brought letters, 
that he suspected them of secretly intriguing to defeat his purposes with the 
Japanese ; while, in point of fact, the sagacious Dutchman, Doeff, who had 
charge of Dezima, was exercising all his ingenuity to pursue such a nicely 
balanced system of non-committal, that, let the mission terminate as it would, 
he might be able to exclaim, " thou canst not say, / did it," and to turn 
events to the advantage of himself and his countrymen. But, at last, the 
ship was brought into safe anchorage, within the harbor ; and after a great 
deal of negotiation and delay, consent was given that the Russian ambassador 
might live on land until an answer to his message was received from the 
Emperor at Jeddo. An old fish warehouse was cleaned out and prepared 
for his reception, and surrounded with a high fence of bamboos. At last, 
when he was summoned to go to Nagasaki to hear the Emperor's answer to 
his application, curtains were hung before the houses on each side of the 
street through which he passed, and the inhabitants were all ordered to keep 
out of sight, so that he saw nothing of the place. Indeed, as we read the 
account of Resanoff's mission, it is hard to resist the belief, that the Japa- 
nese took pleasure in mortifying the ambassador, and in overwhelming him, 
at the same time, with an affectation of great personal politeness. They 
kept him waiting, too, until 1805 for his answer; when it came, it was 
peremptory enough. " Order from the Emperor of Japan to the Russian 
ambassador." " Formerly our Empire had communication with several 
nations ; but experience caused us to adopt, as safe, the opposite principle. 
It is not permitted to the Japanese to trade abroad ; nor to foreigners to 
enter our country." * * * " As to Russia, we have never had 
any relations with her. Ten years ago you sent certain shipwrecked Japa- 
nese to Matsmai, and you then made us propositions of alliance and com- 
merce. At this time you have come back to Nagasaki, to renew these pro- 
positions. This proves that Russia has a strong inclination for Japan. It is 
long since we discontinued all relations with foreigners generally. Although 
we desire to live in peace with all neighboring States, the difference between 
them and us, in manners and character, forbids entirely treaties of alliance. 
Your voyages and your labors are, therefore, useless." * * » 
" All communications between you and us are impossible, and it is my 
imperial pleasure that, henceforth, you no more bring your ships into oui* 
waters." 

Resanoff departed, the Japanese paying all the expenses of the embassy 
while it was in Japan. It is easy to understand how the indignant Russian 
envoy immediately resolved to be revenged for the treatment he had re- 
ceived. He gave way to his angry feelings, and proceeding to Kamtschatka^ 
directed two Russian naval officers, Chwostoff and Davidoff, who happened 



INTRODUCTION. 59 

to be there in the temporary command of two armed merchantmen that 
traded between Asia and the northwest coast of America, to make a hostile 
landing upon the most northern Japanese islands, or their dependencies. 
He, himself, started for St. Petersburg, and died on the way. 

The Russian officers did make a descent upon one of the southern Kurile 
islands that belonged to Japan. That Empire had once owned the whole 
Kurile archipelago ; but Russia had contrived, by some means, to possess 
herself of the northern islands ; and it was doubtful to the Dutch whether 
this appropriation of territory was even known at Jeddo. It is said not to 
be unlikely that the prince of these islands, (thus taken by Russia,) and his 
spy secretaries, deemed it expedient to conceal from the Emperor this loss 
of a territory, of but little value, rather than make known an event which 
would be deemed disgraceful to Japan, and subject them to punishment. If 
this be so, they had, of course, to buy up the spies of government. The 
islands were of but little value except from position. It was precisely on 
account of their position that Russia desired them. On the southern Kuriles, 
however, their officers landed, and wreaked their vengeance on the unoffend- 
ing inhabitants, by plundering their villages, killing some of the people, and 
carrying off others in their vessels. This was in 1807. 

The news of these events filled the Japanese coui't with surprise and in- 
dignation ; and they sought, through the medium of the Dutch, to find out 
whether they had been authorized by the Emperor of Russia. Some time 
after, in May, 1811, Captain Golownin, of the Russian navy, was sent in the 
sloop-of-war " Diana," ostensibly to make a survey of the Kurile group, 
though it was suspected (not proved) that he had ulterior objects, and was 
instructed once more to attempt the establishment of commercial relations. 
When he came to the island of Eeterpoo (which Siebold calls letorop) 
he landed, supposing he would find Kui-iles only ; but he was met by a 
Japanese officer and soldiers, who asked him if the Russians meant to treat 
them as Chwostoff and Davidoff had treated another island some few years 
before ? Golownin, on this, thought it best to get away as soon as he could. 
He then went to an island called Kunaschier, and here the Diana was fired 
upon. Golownin, however, strove to show them that his purposes were 
friendly, and was finally, by the cunning of the Japanese, tempted to land 
with only a midshipman, pilot, four Russian seamen, and a Kurile interpreter- 
All were made prisoners, and passed through various adventures, which 
Golownin has recorded. They were kept prisoners for a long time, avowedly 
in retaliation for the injuries that had been committed to gratify the angry 
feelings of Resanoff ; nor would the Japanese release them until they were 
satisfied that these injuries had not been ordered by the Russian Emperor. 
TThen Golownin left he was furnished with a document warning the Russians 
no more to attempt the impossibility of establishing trade with Japan. It 
is but just to the Japanese to add that Golownin, notwithstanding all his 



GO INTRODUCTION. 

sufferings, unavoidable in a state of imprisonment, gives to the people of 
Japan a high character for generosity and benevolence. 

Thus ended the efforts of Eussia, until within a very recent period, of 
which we shall speak presently. 

THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 

The attempts of our own country are all recent, and need not detain us 
long. In the year 1831 a Japanese junk was blown off the coast, and, after 
drifting about for some time in the Pacific, at length went ashore on the 
western coast of America, near the mouth of the Columbia river. Kindness 
was shown to the shipwrecked Japanese, and finally they were carried to 
Macao, where they received the protection and care of the American and 
English residents. It was determined, after a time, to return the poor 
creatures to their home. Either their benevolent friends were ignorant of 
the Japanese law which prohibited the return of natives to Japan, or, if 
they knew it, they supposed that, at any rate, those who went to Japan on 
such an errand of mercy would not be molested for entering one of the 
harbors of the Empire. Accordingly the " Morrison," an American mer- 
chantman, was fitted out by the American house of King for the voyage to 
Japan ; and the more effectually to manifest her purely pacific purposes, all 
her guns and armament were taken out. In 1837 she made the voyage, notes 
of which have been published by Mr. C. W. King, an American merchant of 
great respectability, who sailed in the " Morrison." The ship reached the bay 
of Jeddo, and the Japanese very soon found out that she was entirely unarmed 
and defenceless. The ofiicial visitors soon showed their contempt after making 
this discovery, and early the next day the vessel was fired at with shotted 
guns. She immediately weighed anchor and ran to Kagosima, the principal 
town of the island of Kiu-siu, where she again came to anchor. After a 
while preparations were made here, also, to fire upon the vessel, and before 
she could remove, a battery opened upon her. The ship then returned to 
Macao with the Japanese on board. 

In 1846 an expedition was sent from the government of the United States 
to Japan ; its business was, if possible, to open negotiations with the Empu'e. 
The ships consisted of the " Columbus," of ninety guns, and the corvette 
" Yincennes." Commodore Biddle commanded the expedition. In July the 
vessels reached the bay of Jeddo, and were, as usual, immediately surrounded 
by the lines of guard boats. On this occasion they numbered about four 
hundred. Some of the Japanese went on board the "Yincennes," and one of 
them placed a stick with some sort of a symbol carved on it at the head of the 
vessel, and another of similar kind at the stern. The act was not perfectly 
understood by the Americans, but they construed it to mean taking posses- 
sion of the ship, and ordered the sticks to be taken away. The Japanese 



INTRODUCTION. 61 

complied immediately without making any objection. The ships remained 
ten days, but no one belonging to them landed, nor was anything accom- 
plished. The answer of the Emperor to the application for license to trade 
was very short : " No trade can be allowed with any foreign nation except 
Holland." 

In February of the year 1849 the United States ship Preble, under 
Commander Grlynn, formed part of the American squadron in the China seas, 
when information was received, by way of Batavia, of the detention and im- 
prisonment in Japan of sixteen American seamen, who had been shipwrecked 
on the coast of some of the Japanese islands. The Preble was immediately 
dispatched to demand their release. As the ship neared the coast of Japan, 
signal guns were fired from the prominent headlands to give warning of the 
approach of a strange vessel ; and when she entered the harbor of Nagasaki^ 
she was met by a number of large boats which ordered her ofi", and indeed 
attempted to oppose further ingress. But the ship steadily standing on with 
a firm breeze, soon broke their ranks, and came to anchor in a desirable 
position. 

Fleets of boats, crowded with soldiers, shortly afterward began to arrive, 
and from that time until the Preble's departure, they poured in, in one con- 
stant stream, day and night. The troops they brought were encamped on 
the elevated shores surrounding the anchorage of the Preble. From these 
heights also were unmasked, at intervals, batteries of heavy artillery, num- 
bering in all sixty guns, which were trained upon the Preble's decks. 

Commander Grlynn forthwith commenced negotiations for the release of 
the American seamen, who had been imprisoned for nearly seventeen months, 
and been treated with great cruelty and inhumanity. "When they were 
first confined, they were made to trample on the crucifix, and were told it 
was the " devil of Japan," and that if they refused to trample on it their 
lives should be taken. When Commander Grlynn first demanded the release 
of the prisoners, the Japanese officials treated the demand with well afi'ected, 
haughty indifi'ereace ; finding, however, that this would not answer, they re- 
sorted to evasive diplomacy ; when the captain of the Preble, with the rough 
bluntness of a sailor, peremptorily told them, in most unmistakable language, 
that they must immedialely give up the men, or means would be found to 
compel them to do so, as the government to which they belonged had both 
the power and the will to protect its citizens. This very soon changed their 
tone, and deprecating any angry feeling, a promise was immediately made 
that the men should be sent on board in two days from that time. This 
promise having been fulfilled to the letter, the Preble returned to join the 
s j[uadron on the coast of China. The next efi"ort made by the government 
of the United States was that of which the story was told in the subsequent 
pages of this work. 

We have thus laid before the reader the chief features of the principal 



62 



INTRODUCTION 



attempts made by civilized nations to open commerce with Japan ; and, in 
the following tabular view, these may be seen at a glance, and thus, by 
showing what efforts were simultaneous, we may facilitate, perhaps, the 
understanding of the subject as a whole. 



TEAR. 


POKTUGUESE. 


DUTCH. 


ENGLISH. 


RUSSIAN. 


UNITED STATES. 


1543-45.. 


First landino"... 










1550 


Chxistiamty in- 
troduced 










1597 


Persecution of 
Christianity 
begins 










1600 




First arrival 








1609 




License to trade 








1613 




Saris reaches 
Firando 


















License to trade 
Factory at Fi- 
rando 
























1623 








1636 






Futile attempt 
to renew trade 








Expelled from 
Japan 






1639 










Assist in perse- 
cuting native 
Christians 














1641 


Sent to Dezima 








1673 




Attempt again 
to renew 
trade 














1791 


^^ArgonautV fu- 














1792 




Laxman's visit.. 




1803 






'' Frederick's" at- 
tempt 












1804 




Resanoff's mis- 
sion 














1807 


Descent on Ku- 
riles 










"PAcBioTO's" visit 
under Pellew 




1808 














1811 


Capti\dty of 
Captain Gol- 
ownin 








Defeat Raffles' 
attempt 

Defeat Raffles' 
attempt 


Sir. S. Raffles' 
attempt 




1813 












1814 


Attempt repeat- 
ed 












1818 


Gordon's at- 














1837 






" Morrison's" 


1846 










^-isit 

Com Biddle's 


1849 






"Minner's" visit 




visit 

Glynn, in the 

Preble 

Com. Perry's 


1852 































INTRODUCTION. 68 



SECTION VI. 

PROGRESS IN INDUSTRIAL ARTS, AND EXTENT OF CIVILIZATION IN 

JAPAN. 

The Japanese are an exceedingly industrious and ingenious people, and 
in certain manufactures are surpassed by no nation. 

Metals. — They work well in iron, copper, gold, and silver, and, indeed, 
in all the metals they have. Of iron, it is supposed the supply afforded by 
their country is not large; still they have extracted the metal from such 
ores as they possess, and wrought it into shape. Copper is very abundant, 
and they understand perfectly well the mode of treating the ore, and pre- 
paring the metal for market or for manufactures. Gold also exists, and 
probably to an extent as yet undeveloped ; the deposits are likely, we think, 
to prove large on further and scientific exploration. At any rate, there does 
not seem now to be any scarcity of it for the purposes to which they apply 
it. They have silver mines which they work. They know, too, how to 
make some combinations of metals which produce a beautiful effect. Thun- 
berg tells us that they work with great skill in what they call sowas. This 
is a mixture of gold and copper, which they color with tousche, or ink, 
making it a fine blue or black, by an art unknown among Europeans. They 
make steel, and temper their sword-blades admirably. Clocks and watches 
are also made by them, but in these they are not entitled to the merit of 
invention; they have copied from European models. The same may be 
said of their astronomical instruments ; they make very well the metallic 
portions of telescopes, &c., and buy mirror glasses from the Dutch, which 
they grind into suitable lenses. They also manufacture excellent metallic 
mirrors ; and Golownin says, he saw carpenters' and cabinet-makers' tools, 
particularly saws, made in Japan, quite equal to any English tools of a 
similar kind. They are exceedingly quick in observing any improvement 
brought in among them by foreigners, soon make themselves masters of it, 
and copy it with great skill and exactness. They are very expert in carving 
metal, and can cast metal statues. Their copper coinage is well stamped, 
for they are good die-sinkers ; and several of their operations in metal are 
carried on in very large and well-ordered manufactories. 

Wood. — No people work better than they can in wood and bamboo, and 
they possess one art in which they excel the world. This is in lacquering 
wood work. Other nations have attempted for years, but without success, 
to equal them in this department. In this operation they select the finest 
wood of fir or cedar to be covered with varnish. They get the gum from 
which they prepare the varnish from the rhus vernix — a tree that is abun- 



C4 INTRODUCTION. 

dant in many parts of their country. On puncturing the tree the gum 
oozes out, of a light color, and of the consistence of cream, but on exposure 
to the air grows thicker and blacker. It is so transparent, that when laid 
unmixed on wood, the grain and every mark on the wood may be seen 
through it. They obviate this, however, where it is desirable, by placing 
beneath the varnish a dark ground, one element in the composition of which 
is the fine sludge caught in the trough under a grindstone. They also use 
for the purpose minutely pulverized charcoal, and sometimes leaf gold ground 
very fine. They then ornament the varnish with figures and flowers of gold 
and silver. They make, and thus varnish, screens, desks, caskets, cabinets, 
and other articles, exceedingly beautiful, and of which specimens may from 
time to time be seen in Europe and this country. It is said, however, that 
the best samples never are sent out of the Kingdom. 

Glass. — They know how to make this article, and can manufacture it now 
for any purpose, both colored and uncolored. Formerly they did not know 
how to make the flat pane for window glass ; and probably what they make is 
an inferior article, as they still purchase thick mirror glass from the Dutch 
to grind into lenses. 

Porcelain, — This they make, and some say in greater perfection than the 
Chinese can. At any rate, specimens we have seen of Japanese porcelain 
are very delicate and beautiful ; though some writers tell us, that, owing to 
the exhaustion of the best clay, they cannot now manufacture such as they 
once could. 

Paper. — Of this they make an abundance, as well for writing and print- 
ing, as for tapestry, handkerchiefs, packing cloths for goods, &c. It is of 
different qualities, and some of it is as soft and flexible as our cotton cloth. 
Indeed, that used for handkerchiefs might be mistaken for cloth, so far as 
toughness and flexibility are concerned. The material of which it is made 
is the bark of the mulberry, [morus papyrifera) and the process is described 
as follows : In December, after the tree has shed its leaves ; they cut off the 
branches about three feet in length, and tie them up in bundles. They are 
then boiled in a ley of ashes in a covered kettle, till the bark is so shrunk 
that half an inch of the wood may be seen projecting at either end of the 
branch. When they have become cool, the bark is stripped off and soaked 
in water three or four hours until it becomes soft, when the fine black skin 
is scraped off with a knife. The coarse bark is then separated from the 
fine; the new branches make the finest paper. The bark is then boiled 
again in fresh ley, continually stirred with a stick, and fresh water from time 
to time is added. It is then put in a sieve and taken to a brook, and here 
the bark is incessantly stirred until it becomes a fine pulp. It is then thrown 
into water and separates in the form of meal. This is put into a small ves- 
sel with a decoction of rice and a species of Hibiscus^ and stirred until it 
has attained a tolerable consistence. It is then poured into a larger vessel, 



INTKODUCTION. 65 

■from whence it is taken out and put in the form of sheets on mats or layers 

of grass straw ; these sheets are laid one upon another with straw between, 

and pressed to force the water out. After this they are spread upon boards 

in the sun, dried, cut, and gathered into bundles for sale. This paper will ^ 

better endure folding, and last longer than ours. 

Woven fabrics, — They make silk, the best of which is superior to that 
of China. The best silks are woven by criminals of high rank, who are 
confined upon a small, rocky, unproductive island, deprived of their proper- 
ty, and made to support themselves by their labor. The exportation of 
these silks, it is said, is prohibited. 

They have but small skill in producing cotton fabrics, though such are 
made. For many purposes to which we apply cloth of cotton, they use the 
coarse spongy paper to which we have alluded. They require woollen cloths, 
for the winters are cold ; but, we believe, they make none. Indeed, they 
have no sheep or goats, and therefore lack materials from which to make 
woollen cloths. 

Leather. — They convert the skins of certain animals into this article ; but, 
as we have stated on a previous page, all those who have anything to do with 
the making or vending of leather are outcasts from all the rest of the pop- 
ulation and universally proscribed. They never apply the article as we do, 
to making shoes, or other coverings for the feet. They hardly ever wear 
shoes or slippers that are not made of plaited straw. Thunberg says the 
shoes are always the shabbiest part of the dress of the Japanese. As they 
are of straw, they consequently last but a little time. But they are made in 
immense numbers, cost but a trifle, and may be bought in every town and 
village in the Empire. The pedestrian, therefore, throws away the old pair 
by the road side, and buys new ones as he goes along ; while the more provi- 
dent man takes two or three pairs with him on starting. Immense numbers 
of these discarded shoes may be found on the sides of all the roads. In 
wet weather they wear under the shoe a wooden clog, which is attached to 
the foot by ties of plaited straw. Dignitaries sometimes wear slippers made 
of fine rattan slips neatly plaited. 

Agriculture. — Japan is very mountainous, as we have already stated; 
but with the exception of that portion of the ground covered by the roads, 
and by the woods left to supply timber and charcoal, nearly every foot of 
ground, to the very tops of the mountains, is cultivated. Of animals to assist 
in culture they have the horse, ox, and a large species of bufi"alo, which they 
train to draw carts and carry heavy goods on the back. They plough with 
both the ox and cow. Of milk and butter they make no use. When they 
cannot use cattle to plough, as on the steep sides of hills, men are substitu- 
ted ; and sometimes the plough is laid aside, and all the labor in preparing 
the earth is done by hand. Generally, their soil is rather poor; but by 
means of the immense labor they bestow upon it, by irrigation, and espe- 
5 



66 INTRODUCTION. 

cially, by the use of manures, which they understand well, they make very 
large crops. 

Their chief grain is rice, of which they are said to produce the best in 
all Asia. They also make barley and wheat. The first is used for feeding 
the cattle ; the other is not much valued, and is chiefly used for cakes and 
soy. This last is made by fermenting, under ground, wheat with a peculiar 
kind of bean and salt. 

Next to rice, in importance, is the tea plant. This was not cultivated in 
Japan before the beginning of the ninth century, when it was introduced into 
China. Immense quantities of it are now produced, for its use is universal. 
Besides the plantations devoted to it, the hedges on the farms are all of the 
tea plant. Siebold says the finer kinds require great care and skill in the 
cultivation. The plantations are situated, as far as they conveniently can 
be, from all other crops and from human habitations, lest the delicacy of the 
tea should be impaired by smoke or any other impurity. They manure the 
plants with dried anchovies, and with the juice pressed out of mustard seed. 
The harvesting is a process of great nicety. Dr. Siebold thinks that the 
green and black tea are from the same plant, and differ only in the mode of 
preparation ; though others have said the plants themselves differ. Neither, 
however, is ever dried on copper, but both are dried in an iron pan. 

Beans of various kinds are produced, and some other vegetables. Sev- 
eral edible roots are carefully cultivated. They grow the mulberry tree in 
large quantities for the sake of the silk worm, and also for making paper. 
In Loo-Choo they make a coarse sugar from the cane ; in Nippon they man- 
ufacture it from the sap of a tree. Our farmers deem it a part of their 
business to rear such animals as we use for food ; but the Japanese farmer 
is most frequently a Buddhist and cares nothing for animal food. The 
Dutch, a great while ago, introduced some sheep and goats, and some few 
may, possibly, still be found in the Kingdom. If attended to they would 
thrive very well ; but the religion of the natives forbids them to eat the 
flesh, and they do not know how to manufacture the wool and hair ; hence 
the animals are little valued. They have, also, a few hogs, which were origi- 
nally brought from China. Some of the country people near the coast keep 
them, but not to eat. They sell them to the Chinese junks which are allowed 
to come over to trade. The Chinese sailor has a passion for pork. The hog 
thrives well and becomes very fat in Japan. 

Horticulture. — In this department the Japanese are very skilful. They 
possess the art, in a wonderful degree, either of dwarfing, or of unnaturally 
enlarging all natural productions. As an evidence of the first, may be seen, 
in the miniature gardens of the towns, perfectly mature trees, of various 
kinds, not more than three feet high, and with heads about three feet in 
diameter. These dwarfed trees are often placed in flower pots. Fischer 
says that he saw in a box four inches long, one and a half wide, and six in 



INTRODUCTION. 67 

height, a bamboo, a fir, and a plum tree, all tbriving, and the latter in full 
blossom. As proofs of the last, Meylan tells us that he saw plum trees cov- 
ered with blossoms, each of which was four times the size of the cabbage 
rose ; it produced no fruit, however. He also saw radishes weighing from 
fifty to sixty pounds ; and those of fifteen pounds were not at all uncommon. 
The fir trees are represented as being forced to an enormous size ; we are 
told that the branches, at the height of seven or eight feet from the ground, 
are led out, sometimes over ponds, and supported upon props, so that they 
give a shade around the tree three hundred feet in diameter. The cedar, 
also, is a tree which reaches a great size. 

Navigation. — Formerly the Japanese made voyages, in vessels of their 
own construction, to Corea, China, Java, Formosa, and other places at some 
distance from their own islands ; but when the Portuguese were expelled a 
decree was made that the natives should not leave the country ; hence navi- 
gation declined. Still, short coasting voyages are made within the bounda- 
ries of the Kingdom ; and fishing-smacks go to sea, but not very far from 
the coast. This coasting trade, however, is large; and the Japanese use 
fish for food so extensively, that the number is immeaise of these trading 
boats and fishing-smacks. The Japanese have the compass ; not divided, 
however, into as many points as ours. The construction of their vessels, as 
to model, is very clumsy ; and, as they have seen and examined many Euro- 
pean ships, it may seem strange that a people so skilful and ingenious should 
not, ere this, have improved in naval architecture. The fault is not theu's ; 
the fact is that they have, in more than one instance, built very good vessels 
after European models ; but the law has interposed, for a special reason, and 
retarded improvement among a people whose insular position would have 
made them sailors, and whose quick perceptions would have made them good 
ones if left to themselves. Their craft are, by law, made with the stern 
open, so that they cannot weather an open and heavy sea. The smaller ones 
never, if they can help it, go out of sight of land, and upon any threatening 
appearance of rough weather they instantly run in to make a harbor. The 
object of thio law of construction is to keep the natives at home. 

Internol irade hy land and water. — This is large, resulting from the 
variety of produce aff'orded by the variety of climate, and from the immense 
population. In many places, town joins on to town, and village to village, 
for miles, so that the road looks like a continued street. Kaempfer thus 
speaks of the population : " The country is indeed populous beyond expres- 
sion, and one would scarcely think it possible that, being no greater than it 
is, it should, nevertheless, maintain and support such a vast number of inhab- 
itants. The highways are almost one continued line of villages and boroughs. 
You scarce come out of one, but you enter another; and you may travel 
many miles, as it were, in one street, without knowing it to be composed of 
many villages, save by the difi'eriDg names that were formerly given them, 



68 INTKODUCTION. 

and wLicli they after retained, thougli joined to one another. It hath many 
towns, the chief whereof may, of a certainty, vie with the most considerable 
in the world for largeness, magnificence, and number of inhabitants." 
Kaempfer says of Jeddo, that he was one whole day, riding at a moderate 
pace, " from Sinagawa, where the suburb begins, along the main street, which 
goes across, a little irregularly indeed, to the end of the city." 

As to the variety of climate and produce, the southern part of the 
Kingdom, reaching down as low as the twenty-fourth degree of north lati- 
tude, produces the sugar cane and the tropical fruits ; while the northern, 
extending as high up as fifty degrees, yields the products of the temperate 
zones. The mineral wealth of the country is very great, the manufactures 
numerous, and, under such circumstances, the internal trade among so many 
people is necessarily active. Of the facilities for carrying it on, we remark 
that goods are conveyed by land on pack-horses and pack-oxen, and that the 
roads are excellent, and kept in admirable order. In the rugged and moun- 
tainous parts of the country where the road must pass, they make it zigzag 
on the side of the mountain, and, where necessary, cut steps in the rocks. 
Indeed, the roads must be kept in order, otherwise they could not accomplish 
what they do by their postal arrangements. As among the ancient Mexicans 
and Peruvians, the post is pedestrian, and very expeditious. Every carrier 
is accompanied by a partner to take his place in case of accident. The men 
run at their utmost speed, and as they approach the end of their stage, find 
the relay waiting, to whom, as soon as they are near enough, they toss the 
package of letters, when the new runners set off before the coming ones have 
stopped. Nothing must be interposed to delay them a moment on the road. 
The highest prince of the Empire, with all his train, must make way for 
the postmen, if he meet them on the road. Where necessary and practi- 
cable on their roads, the Japanese make good bridges, often of stone ; but 
they do not seem to have arrived at the art of tunnel-making. Some princi- 
ples of civil engineering they understand and apply, but of military engi- 
neering they know nothing. But beside their roads, they use their rivers 
and inland lakes for internal trade wherever it is possible ; and in those parts 
of the Kingdom nearest the sea, probably the greater part of the inland 
trade is carried on by the rivers, which, though short, are navigable for some 
miles into the interior. On the roads, in all parts of the Empire, stables, 
inns, tea-shops, and other resting places, occur at intervals, and the distances 
are regularly marked. 

Scientific knowledge and its applications. — We have just said that the 
Japanese possess some knowledge of the principles of civil engineering. 
They know something of mathematics, mechanics, and trigonometry. Thus, 
they have constructed very good maps of their country ; they have measured 
the height of some of their mountains by the barometer ; they have made 
some very good canals ; they have consti'ucted water-mills, and lathes moved 



INTRODUCTION. 69 

by water power. They make clocks, and herein, Iby the way, they have 
shown remarkable ingenuity and skill. Meylan gives the following account 
of a clock which they madoj and exhibited to the Dutch, while he was an 
inmate of Dezima. '' The clock," says he, " is contained in a frame three 
feet high by five feet long, and presents a fair landscape at noon- tide. Plum 
and cherry trees in full blossom, with other plants, adorn the foreground. 
The back-ground consists of a hill, from which falls a cascade, skilfully imi- 
tated in glass, that forms a softly flowing river, first winding round rocks 
placed here and there, then ru^ .ning across the middle of the landscape till 
lost in a wood of fir trees. A golden sun hangs aloft in the sky, and, turning 
upon a pivot, indicates the striking of the hours. On the frame below, the 
twelve hours of day and night are marked, where a slowly creeping tortoise 
serves as a hand. A bird, perched upon the branch of a plum tree, by its 
song and the clapping of its wings, announces the moment when the hour 
expires ; and as the song ceases, a bell is heard to strike the hour — during 
which operation, a mouse comes out of a grotto and runs over the hill. 
* * # * Every separate part was nicely executed ; but the bird was 
too large for the tree, and the sun for the sky, while the mouse scaled 
the mountain in a moment of time." Whatever may have been the defects 
of taste, the ingenuity and skill in this piece of mechanism are very appa- 
rent. 

Fischer also tell us a story of the ingenuity of a Japanese fisherman, 
of which, perhaps, the specimen may now be found among ourselves. The 
Japanese, like many other people of lively temperaments, have a passion 
for things that are strange and odd, and rather prefer sometimes to be gulled. 
This fisherman, availing himself of this passion, contrived to unite the upper 
half of a monkey to the lower half of a fish, so neatly as to defy ordinary 
inspection. He then announced that he had caught a strange animal alive 
in his net, but that the creature had soon died when taken out of the water, 
and invited his countrymen to come, and, for a consideration, to see the 
curiosity. After he had put money in his purse to some considerable extent 
by this bold reliance on human credulity, he improved on the original story, 
and said that during the few moments of its life the strange creature had 
spoken to him, (whether in the language of Japan or in that of the Fee-jee 
islands, he did not say,) and had predicted a certain number of years of 
great fertility, to be followed or accompanied by a most fatal epidemic ; and 
that against this last the only remedy would be the possession of a likeness 
of the marine nondescript, half human, half fish. Pictures of the mermaid 
were forthwith in demand, and the sale was immense. Presently, as the 
afi"air had well nigh had its run in Japan, this mermaid, or one made like it, 
was sold to the Butch factory at Dezima, and was sent off in the next ship 
to Batavia. Here one of our speculating brethren of the " universal Yan- 
kee nation " contrived to get it, and forthwith repaired to Europe, where he 



70 INTRODUCTION. 

very successfully played the part of proprietor and showman of a veritable 
mermaid, during the years 1822-'23, thus settling a disputed question in 
natural history and filling his pockets at the same time. We are inclined to 
think that this is the identical mermaid which graces the collection at the 
New York Museum ; if it he not, then our Japan fisherman furnished the 
parent, (so ingeniously made as to elude detection,) from which was born 
the Fee-jee prodigy. 

But another more remakable and far more creditable instance of the 
ingenuity and talent of a Japanese fisherma. is related in the Dutch annals 
of Dezima. It occurred during the presidency of M. Doeff. The Dutch at 
Batavia, during the war, feared the English cruisers too much to send one of 
their own ships on the annual voyage to Japan. They therefore more than 
once hired American vessels. One of these having taken in at Dezima the 
usual cargo of copper and camphor, as she set sail in the night, struck upon 
a rock in the harbor, filled and sunk. The crew reached the shore in boats, 
and the authorities of Nagasaki, the Dutch factory, and the American cap- 
tain, were all alike concerned to devise means of raising the vessel. Japan- 
ese divers were sent down to fetch up -the copper, but the camphor had 
dissolved, and the effluvia thus disengaged cost two of the divers their lives. 
The idea of unloading her was then abandoned. Efforts were then made to 
raise her as she was, but without success. A simple fisherman named Kiye- 
mon, who now perhaps for the first time in his life saw an European-built 
ship, for he did not live in Nagasaki, promised to raise the ship, provided 
his mere expenses in doing it were paid ; if he did not succeed he asked 
nothing. He was laughed at by the people for his presumption, but, as the 
case was hopeless, those interested permitted him to make the attempt. At 
low tide he fastened on either side of the vessel fifteen or seventeen boats, 
such as those by which the Dutch ships are towed in, and connected them all 
together firmly by props and stays. He then waited for a spring tide, when 
he came in a Japanese coasting vessel, which he attached firmly to the stern 
of the sunken ship, and at the moment when the tide was highest, he set 
every sail of every boat. The sunken vessel was lifted, disengaged herself 
from the rock, and ways towed by the fisherman to the strand, where she 
could be unloaded and repaired. Fraissinet says he was handsomely rewarded 
for this. The reader will be amused to learn that his reward consisted in 
being allowed to wear two sabres, (which is the badge of elevated rank,) and 
to bear as his coat of arms a Dutch hat and two Dutch tobacco pipes. We 
have never read in any narrative of the circumstance that he received any 
money with which to support his rank. The Dutchmen and the American 
captain should have furnished that. If the circumstances had been changed, 
and either Hollander or Yankee had raised the vessel for the Japanese, it 
would have been very soon intimated to the natives that two swords with a 
picture of a Dutch hat and two tobacco pipes afforded very inadequate com- 



INTRODUCTION. 71 

pensation for such a valuable service. We think it would scarcely have 
satisfied the Japanese mermaid maker, had he been the fortunate fisherman 
instead of the modest Kiyemon. 

Medicine. — All the writers on Japan agree in the statement that on the 
visit of the Dutch president to Jeddo, his European physician, who accom- 
panies him, is always visited by the native physicians, and closely questioned 
on points purely professional. Their object is to gain information. But 
they already know something. They have not, however, availed themselves 
at all of post mortem examinations, either to investigate disease or to study 
anatomy. We cannot suppose they are without opportunities of thus acquir- 
ing knowledge, for we read that after a criminal is executed it is not uncom- 
mon for his body to be hacked in pieces by the young nobility, that they 
may try the temper and edge of their sword blades. But superstition is in 
the way. To come into contact with death is deemed pollution. Without 
such examinations, it is obvious that the knowledge of the physician and 
surgeon must be but .imperfect at best. 

There are, however, in Japan, original medical works constantly appear- 
ing, and translations are also made of all such as they can obtain in the 
Dutch language, which they best understand. The European medical gentle- 
men, who have come in contact with their professional brethren of Japan, 
report favorably of them ; and Dr. Siebold speaks with high praise of the 
zeal with which the native physicians thronged around him, from all parts 
of the Empire, seeking to enlarge the stores of their knowledge. He bears 
testimony also to their intelligence, as evinced by the questions they asked. 
Acupuncture and moxa burning are both used in Japan and are native inven- 
tions. They have an original treatise on the first, and the proper cases for 
its use. Their drugs are mostly animal and vegetable ; they are too little 
acquainted with chemistry to venture upon mineral remedies. They study 
medical botany, however, with great attention, and their remedies are said 
to be generally efficacious. Some of their medicinal preparations are very 
remark:\ble, producing most singular effects. Of these there is one spoken 
of by Titsingh, who saw its application and its consequences ; and from some 
of the officers of our own expedition we have heard of this preparation, of 
which, we believe, they have brought home specimens. Titsingh thus writes : 
" Instead of enclosing the bodies of the dead in coffins of a length and 
breadth proportionate to the stature and bulk of the deceased, they place 
the body in a tub, three feet high, two feet and a half in diameter at the top, 
and two feet at bottom. It is difficult to conceive how the body of a grown 
person can be compressed into so small a space, when the limbs, rendered 
rigid by death, cannot be bent in any way. The Japanese to whom I made 
this observation, told me that they produced the result by means of a par- 
ticular powder called Dosia^ which they introduce into the ears, nostrils, and 
mouth of the deceased, after which, the limbs, all at once, acquire astonish- 



72 INTRODUCTION. 

ing flexibility. As they promised to perform the experiment in my presence, 
I could not do otherwise than suspend my judgment, lest I should condemn, 
as an absurd fiction, a fact which, indeed, surpasses our conceptions, but may 
yet be susceptible of a plausible explanation, especially by galvanism, the 
recently discovered effects of which also appeared at first to exceed the 
bounds of credulity. The experiment accordingly took place in the month 
of October, 1783, when the cold was pretty severe. A young Dutchman 
having died in our factory at Dezima, I directed the physician to cause the 
body to be washed and left all night exposed to the air, on a table placed 
near an open window, in order that it might become completely stiff. Next 
morning, several Japanese, some of the officers of our factory, and myself, 
went to examine the corpse, which was as hard as a piece of wood. One of 
the interpreters, named Zenby, drew from his bosom a santocJc, or pocket- 
book, and took out of it an oblong paper, filled with a coarse powder resem- 
bling sand. This was the famous Dosia powder. He put a pinch into the 
ears, another pinch into the nostrils, and a third into the mouth ; and pres- 
ently, whether from the effect of this drug, or of some trick which I could 
not detect, the arms, which had before been crossed over the breast, dropped 
of themselves, and in less than twenty minutes by the watch, the body recov- 
ered all its flexibility. 

" I attributed this phenomenon to the action of some subtle poison, but 
was assured that the Dosia powder, so far from being poisonous, was a most 
excellent medicine in child-bearing, for diseases of the eyes, and for other 
maladies. An infusion of this powder, taken even in pefect health, is said 
to have virtues which cause it to be in great request among the Japanese of 
all classes. It cheers the spirits and refreshes the body. It is carefully 
tied up in a white cloth and dried, after being used, as it will serve a 
great number of times before losing its virtues. 

" The same infusion is given to people of quality when, at the point of 
death ; if it does not prolong life, it prevents rigidity of the limbs ; and the 
body is not exposed to the rude handling of professional persons, a circum- 
stance of some consequence in a country where respect for the dead is carried 
to excess. I had the curiosity to procure some of this powder, for which I 
was obliged to send to Kidjo, or the nine provinces, to the temples of the 
Sintoos, which enjoy the exclusive sale of it, because they practice the doc- 
trine of Kobou-Daysi, its inventor. The quantity obtained in consequence 
of my first application was very small, and even this was a special favor of 
the priests, who otherwise never part with more than a single pinch at a. 
time." 

Titsingh, however, obtained a considerable quantity afterward, which he 
carried home with him 'in 1784. It has the a2:)pcarance of sand, and when 
it is fully perfected for use is as white as snow. It is obtained on the moun- 
tain of Kongosen or Kinbensen in the province of Yamatto, where there are 



INTRODUCTION. 73 

many mines of gold and silver. The process by whicli it is prepared is tBe 
S'3cret of the priests. Their knowledge is doubtless the result of accidental 
experience ; for their acquaintance with chemistry is so slight that we may 
safely conclude they do not understand the rationale of its preparation. 

Astronomy. — In this science they have made very considerable pro- 
ficiency. They understand the use of European instruments, and have 
caused many of them to be very successfully imitated by native workmen. 
Meylan says he saw good telescopes, chronometers, thermometers, and 
barometers, made by Japanese mechanics. They calculate eclipses accu- 
rately, and yearly almanacs are prepared in the Jeddo and Dairi colleges. 
Lalande's treatises and other astronomical works have been translated from 
Dutch into Japanese, and are studied with great ardor. They have in their 
division of time a cycle of sixty years, calculated out of their zodiac, which, 
like ours, has twelve signs, differing from ours in their names only. But 
this is not the place to consider minutely their astronomical system. We 
cannot leave it, however, without the remark that, on a comparison of it with 
that of the Muiscas, an ancient, semi-civilized, and now extinct race, that 
once inhabited the plains of Bogota, in New Grranada, the resemblances were 
so striking that they produced on our mind a conviction that the astronomi- 
cal systems of the two people were substantially the same. 



SECTION VII. 

LITERATUEE AND THE FINE ARTS. 

PapePu was made by the Japanese as early as the beginning of the seventh 
century, and printing from blocks, after the Chinese fashion, was introduced 
in the year 1206 of our era. The city of the Mikado appears to be the 
great metropolis of literature in Japan. A great many books are there made, 
and a great many reside there whose occupation is that of letters. Semina- 
ries of learning of different grades have existed in the country ever since 
Europeans knew anything about it. Xavier says that in his day there were 
four " academies " in or near Miako, each having between three and four 
thousand pupils ; and he adds that much larger numbers were taught at an 
institution near the city of Bandone, and that such seminaries were universal 
throughout the Empire. Beside the colleges or higher institutions at the 
city of Miako, we know of similar ones at Jeddo, and of one at Nagasaki. 
How many there may be in the Kingdom we cannot say ; but education, 
such as it is, is by no means neglected in Japan. There would seem to be 
something like a common school system, for Meylan states that children of 



74 INTRODUCTION. 

both sexes and of all ranks are invariably sent to rudimentary schools ; 
whether supported by the State or not he does not say. Here the pupils are 
all taught to read and write, and are initiated into some knowledge of the 
history of their own country. Thus much the meanest peasant child is 
expected to learn. There are immense numbers of cheap, easy books contin- 
ually issuing from the Japan press, which are designed for the instruction 
of children or poor people ; so it will be seen they have their " cheap litera- 
ture." Books innumerable of a higher order are provided for the rich, and 
all, of both kinds, are profusely illustrated with wood-cuts, engraved on the 
same block with the type. Some of these books, which we have examined, 
show also that an art but recently introduced in Europe and America is very 
old in Japan, viz : that of printing in colors. So that in our modern inven- 
tions of stereotyping and printing in colors, and in our manufacture of cheap 
literature for the people generally, Japan has anticipated us by centuries. 
Their books consist of works of science, history, biography, geography, 
travels, moral philosophy, natural history, poetry, the drama, and encyclo- 
paedias. Reading is a favorite occupation with both sexes ; and it is said to 
be common in Japan to see, when the weather permits, a group of ladies and 
gentlemen seated by a cool running stream, or in a shady grove, each with 
a book. 

Of the merits of the Japanese books it is impossible for us to speak with 
much confidence. Very few Europeans or Americans know anything of the 
language ; it is not the easiest of acquisition ; and yet, all we have of the 
Japanese books is in translation. We doubt if any western scholar has ever 
yet mastered it thoroughly, for opportunity has been wanting ; and very sure 
we are that Klaproth accuses Titsingh of ignorance, and Siebold and Hoff- 
man similarly accuse Klaproth, while a Japanese at our side informs us 
that all are mistaken. Now, without a thorough understanding of the lan- 
guage, no translation can convey a correct idea of the sentiments expressed, 
much less of the spirit embodied in the original. An ex cathedra critical 
opinion on the Japanese literature is, therefore, premaiiure. Let us hope 
that, ere long, both Europeans and Americans will master the language com- 
pletely ; and then let them speak. 

Music. — The Japanese music, of which, by the way, the natives are pas- 
sionately fond, has nothing in it to recommend it to the ears of Europeans 
or Americans. The principal instrument is the samsic or guitar, and every 
young female of the upper classes is taught to play upon it. It is the in- 
variable accompaniment of ladies when they go to parties ; and on these 
occasions the female guests sing and play by turns. They have, besides, 
various other instruments, but little can be said in commendation of their 
music. 

Arts of design, paintings, prints, &c. — In this department they have 
made some progress, and in certain branches have attained to no small skill. 



INTRODUCTION. 75 

Of anatomy, as we have already said, they know nothing, and consequently 
are no sculptors ; neither are they portrait painters. They are ignorant of 
perspective, and, therefore, cannot paint a landscape ; but in the representation 
of a single object, their accuracy of detail and truthful adherence to nature 
cannot be surpassed. Their deficiency is in composition. Nothing is more 
beautiful than their delineations of a flower, or a fruit, and especially of 
birds. The drawing is accurate and the coloring perfect. They make, too, 
colors which European artists pronounce to be unrivalled ; and some of which 
excel any we can produce. The Japanese are very fond of painting, and are 
eager collectors of pictures. They sketch boldly with charcoal or ink ; and 
of an isolated object the drawing, as we have said, is apt to be good. They 
do not paint in oil, at all ; all their specimens are in water colors, the man- 
agement of which they certainly understand very well. 

They have prints in great abundance ; all, however, are made from wood 
cuts, and very often are printed in colors. Engraving on copper has but re- 
cently been introduced among them, and as it has been adopted with great 
eagerness, it will probably be prosecuted with success. 

"We have already said that they make castings in metal of vases and 
images, and the sides of their bells are adorned with bas-relief. 

They cannot be said to understand architecture as an art, though they 
cut stone and lay it skilfully enough ; nor have they any skill in the work of 
the lapidary. The country produces precious stones, but they do not know 
how to cut or polish them. Hence there is very little jewelry worn by 
either sex. But they have a substitute for jewels, such as we cannot make. 
This is called syakfdo, in which various metals are so blended and combined 
that they produce an effect resembling, very much, fine enamel. This is used, 
instead of precious stones, for girdle clasps, sword hilts, boxes, and other 
ornamental work. 



SECTION YIII. 

NATURAL PRODUCTIONS. 

Mineral wealth. — Kaempfer, whom we believe to be as accurate as any 
writer on Japan, remarks that, " the greatest riches of the Japanese soil, and 
those in which this Empire exceeds most known countries, consist in all 
sorts of minerals and metals, particularly in gold, silver, and copper." The 
gold is found in many parts of the Empire. Sometimes it is obtained from 
its own ore, sometimes from the washings of the earth or sand, and some- 
times it is mixed with the copper. The quantity in the country is undoubted- 
ly great. An old Spanish writer of the seventeenth century tells us that, in 



76 



INTKODUCTION 



his day, the palace of the Emperor at Yedo, as well as many houses of the 
nobility, were literally covered with plates of gold. In the beginning of the 
Dutch trade, the annual export was £840,000 sterling ; and in the course of 
sixty years the amount sent out of the Kingdom, through the Dutch alone, 
was from twenty-five to fifty millions sterling. 

Silver mines are quite as numerous as those of gold. In one year, the 
Portuguese, while they had the trade, exported in silver, £587,500 sterling. 

Copper abounds through the whole Japanese group, and some of it is 
said to be not surpassed by any in the world. The natives refine it and cast 
it into cylinders about a foot long and an inch thick. The coarser kinds they 
cast into round lumps or cakes. 

Quicksilver is said to be abundant, but this, so far as we know, has never 
been an article of export. 

Lead^ also, is found to be plentiful, but, like quicksilver, it has not been 
sent out of the Kingdom. 

Tin has also been discovered in small quantities, and of a quality so fine 
and white that it almost equals silver ; but of the extent of this mineral 
little is known, as the Japanese do not attach much value to it, and therefore 
have not sought for it. 

Iron is found in three of the provinces, and probably exists in others. 
The Japanese know how to reduce the ore, and the metal they obtain is of 
superior quality, of which they make steel unsurpassed in excellency. 

Coal. — " They have no want of coals in Japan," says Ksempfer, " they 
being dug up in great quantities in the province of Sikusen and in most of 
the northern provinces. " Dr. Siebold also speaks of coal as being in com- 
mon use throughout the country ; and on visiting one of the mines he saw 
enough to convince him that it was skilfully worked. For domestic purposes 
they convert the coal into coke. Viewed in the light of commercial inter- 
course between the two hemispheres, this coal is worth more than all the 
metallic deposits we have enumerated. 

Native sulphur. — In a region so volcanic, this is, as might be expected, 
an abundant mineral. In some places it lies in broad deep beds, and may be 
dug up and removed with as much ease as sand. A considerable revenue is 
derived by the government from sulphur. 

Precious stones. — No diamonds have been found, but agates, caruelians, 
and jaspers are met with, somt* of them of great beauty. But the wealth 
of the Kingdom in precious stones is imperfectly known, as the Japanese are 
not lapidaries. 

Pearls. — These are fished up on nearly all parts of the coast, and are fre- 
quently large and beautiful. The Chinese taught the natives their value by 
offering them very high prices for the finest qualites. 

Mother of pearl, corals, ambergris and naphtha are also to be enumerated 
among the articles of export. 



INTEODUCTION. 77 

Forest and fruit trees. — The most common forest trees are tlie fir and 
the cypress ; and so sensible are the Japanese of the necessity of preserving 
their timber trees, that neither of those above named can be cut but by permis- 
sion of the local magistrate ; and the law requires that for every full grown 
tree that is felled a young one must be planted. The cedar grows to an im- 
mense size ; sometimes more than eighteen feet in circumference. An Eng- 
lish ship at Nagasaki, within a recent period, wanted some small spars ; they 
were furnished ; all were cedar, about ninety-six feet long. This tree would, 
no doubt, prove a very valuable article of export. 

There are two varieties of oak, both good and both different from the 
oaks of Europe. The acorns of one kind are boiled and eaten for food, and 
are said to be both palatable and nutritious. 

The mulberry grows wild in great abundance ; but it is so useful that the 
people transplant and cultivate it. Of the varnish tree we have already 
spoken. 

The camphor tree is valuable and lives to a great age. Siebold visited 
one which Charlevoix had described as having been seen by him. one hundred 
and thirty-five years before. It was healthy and covered with foliage, with 
a circumference of fifty feet. The country people make the camphor by a 
decoction of the root and stems cut into small pieces. 

The chestnut and walnut are both found, and the former yields excellent 
fruit. There is also the pepper tree, or a tree which bears a species of 
pepper. 

Of fruit trees there, are the orange, the lemon, the fig, the plum, the cherry, 
and the apricot. The plum and cherry, however, are not cultivated as much 
for their fruit as for their flowers. The vine is very little cultivated ; and of 
the tea plant we have already spoken. 

Having thus endeavored to furnish the reader with a condensed view of 
the leading features that characterize the past progress and present condition 
of Japan, we would at once proceed to the narrative of the expedition ; but 
there is a duty which we owe to our country, and which we will now endeavor 
to perform. 

Of certain events which have transpired since the successful expedition 
under Commodore Perry, or occurred during its progress, it is due to the 
claims of truth that something should be said. It had been more gratifying 
to us to be silent on the topics to which we are about to allude ; but official 
publications by other nations, as well as statements by some individuals, have 
been put forth, the obvious purpose of which is to deprive our country and her 
officers of whatever merit may attach to the fact that the United States were 
the first, by peaceful negotiations, to cause an alteration in the policy of 
excluding foreigners hitherto pursued by Japan. 

On the 24th of November, 1852, Commodore Perry left our shores on 
his mission to Japan. That such a mission had been resolved on by our gov- 



78 INTRODUCTION. 

eminent was announced to the world some twelve months before the time of 
its leaving, and had formed the subject of comment in more than one country 
of Europe. The general opinion abroad was that the mission would, like the 
many others that had been attempted by various powers, prove fruitless. 
Dr. Yon Siebold, in particular, whose long residence in Japan was supposed 
to give great importance to his opinions, thus wrote to a friend concerning 
it : " My mind accompanies the expedition. That it will be successful by 
peaceful means I doubt very much. If / could only inspire Commodore 
Perry, he would triumph," &c. The progress of the expedition was, of 
course, watched by foreign powers with great interest. 

Commodore Perry cast anchor in the bay of Yedo, the commercial cap- 
ital of Japan, on the 8th of July, 1853. On the 22d of August, 1853, a 
Ptussian squadron, under the command of Admiral Pontiatine, anchored in the 
bay of Nagasaki. We know not precisely of what vessels this expedition 
was composed; but we believe that, beside the frigate Pallas and the 
steamer Vostock, the Aurora, of 48 guns, and the corvette Navarino, of 22, 
were sent, the one to the Pacific, and the other ostensibly to Kamtschatka, 
while it is quite certain that not long after a Russian squadron of several 
vessels-of-war was at Copenhagen, the officers of which said that they were 
( destined to remain five years in the waters of the Japanese archipelago. An 
unusually large Russian naval force was therefore collected in the Pacific, 
and in the vicinity of Japan, to be there on the expected visit of Commo- 
dore Perry. There were not wanting those who suspected that Russia was 
silently pursuing her own system of policy. If Commodore Perry unfortu- 
nately should fail in his peaceful attempts, and be brought into hostile col- 
lision with the Japanese, Russia was on the spot, not to mediate, but to 
tender to Japan her aid as an ally in the conflict, and if successful, to avail 
herself of the moment of confidence quietly to get a foothold in some part of 
the Kingdom, with the intention, at the proper time, of absorbing all. There 
is no power in the other hemisphere to which the possession of Japan, or the 
control of its affairs, is as important as it is to Russia. She is on one side of 
the islands, the United States on the other. The Pacific ocean is destined to 
be the theatre of immense commercial undertakings. Russia is, in a great 
degree, shut out by her local position from easy access to the Atlantic ; but 
with such harbors on the Pacific as Japan would give her, she might hope to 
become the controlling maritime power of the world. Our friendly relations 
and influence with the Japanese, therefore, might interfere materially with 
the ulterior plans of Russia. Hence she was first in the field to watch all 
our movements. Thus, we say, some interpreted her conduct. We do not 
mean to assert that they interpreted it correctly, or that such was the policy 
Russia had resolved on. But the fact is, as we have stated, that simultane- 
ously with our expedition she did largely increase her naval armament in the 
waters of Japan. Commodore Perry was at some loss to understand pre- 



INTRODUCTION. 79 

cisely tlie policy of Kussia. In a letter of November 12th, 1853, tlie Rus- 
sian admiral made a distinct proposition of joining his forces to, and entering 
into full co-operation with, the American squadron. This may have been 
prompted by an expectation of our success and a doubt of his own. At any 
rate, the Commodore civilly, but decidedly, declined the proposal, and, in a 
letter to the Secretary of the Navy, assigned most satisfactory reasons for so 
doing. He stated that it was " inconsistent with our policy of abstaining 
from all alliances with foreign powers ; and for the reason, also, that his co- 
operation cannot advance the interest of the United States, however it might 
benefit the objects of the Russian Emperor, of the nature of whose designs I 
(says the Commodore) am utterly ignorant." But whatever were her secret 
purposes to promote her own, or throw obstacles in the way of our success, 
if she had any, one thing is certain, for thai success we are not indebted in 
the slightest degree to Russia, by any direct act of hers to that end. Indi- 
rectly, however, she may have furthered the object. We are in possession 
of very recent information from Japan, tending to show that the imperial 
government seems to be distrustful of the purposes of Russia. The move- 
ments of that nation on the Amoor river have been viewed with so much ap- 
prehension, that the Emperor some time ago dispatched a special agent to 
discover, if possible, their ulterior purposes. The Japanese have resolved 
that they will raise an efficient army, and equip a navy, not composed of 
junks, but of vessels built after the European model. The restrictions on 
ship-building have been removed, and already, since our treaty was signed, 
one vessel for commercial purposes has been built and rigged like ours. The 
Japanese have heard, too, of the war in which Russia is at present engaged. 
The information produced intense excitement, and it was resolved by the im- 
perial council that treaties similar to that made with the United States should 
be made with all nations seeking them. This opens Japan to the trade of 
the world. They knew, too, that the British Admiral Stirling was seeking 
the Russian vessels in the neighborhood of Japan, and they were hence the 
more willing to make treaties with all, as the means of securing Japan from 
aggression by any, and of enabling her to preserve, as she wishes, a strict neu- 
trality. 

The visit of Russia, however, led to no treaty. The squadron left Naga- 
saki on the 23d of November, 1853, and returned to it early in 1854. It 
left again, after several fruitless interviews with the Japanese authorities, 
on the 5th of February, and was absent until the 20th of April, when it 
reappeared at Nagasaki, but it remained until the 26th only, when it took 
its final departure. 

But other foreign powers have contributed as little to the success of our 
negotiations as Russia has. On the 7th of September, 1854, Admiral Stir- 
ling, in command of the English squadron, arrived at Nagasaki, one purpose 
of his visit being to make a treaty, in which he succeeded. But the English 



CU INTEODUCTION, 

never pretended that they facilitated our negotiations ; they may possibly 
haA^e indirectly derived some benefit from our success; but we will not 
undertake to assert that they did. We think that they are more indebted 
to the Japanese apprehension of Russia's designs, and to the fact of the war 
in which she is now engaged, than to anything else. "We may, indeed, by 
having induced the first departure from the long established rule to exclude 
all foreigners but the Dutch and Chinese, have made it more easy to com- 
mence negotiation, but our aid goes not beyond this accidental assistance. 
Of the precise terms of the English treaty it is not here necessary to speak. 
One of the officers of Admiral Stirling thus speaks of it in a public commu- 
nication through the English newspapers : " The treaty now made with 
Japan contains nothing about commerce, yet it opens the way and prepares 
for future negotiation on this important point." " It is highly probable that 
what has been done by Sir James Stirling at Nagasaki may exceed in dura- 
bility and value the work done at Yedo by the Americans, although that 
cost a special mission, and was heralded to the world with a very loud flour- 
ish of trumpets indeed." 

To this pert outbreak of transparent envy, we have only to say we ear- 
nestly hope that when a treaty is made which does sb.j something " about 
commerce^^ it may prove both durable and valuable to England ; and to 
add, that we should be sorry to think such flippant impertinence as is here 
exhibited is a common characteristic of British naval officers. From the 
brave we look for " high thoughts seated in a heart of couriesy?'^ 

But the Dutch have claimed, and that by an official document, that 
they, in eff'ect, did most of our work for us. It is strange that a nation of 
which all Christendom has, for more than two hundred years, supposed that 
it has sought uniformly to secure to itself a monopoly in the trade of 
Japan, should venture, when their monopoly is destroyed, to stand forth and 
say, in substance, that they always lamented its existence and labored for 
its demolition. Has Christendom been so long deceived? We fear the 
world will ask embarrassing questions. It will say : " Did not the Dutch 
do what they could to drive out the Portuguese ? Did they not assist 
in the bombardment at Simabara, and contribute to the extirpation of the 
native Christians, who were supposed to sympathize with the Portuguese ? 
Did they not manifest hostility toward their Protestant neighbors of the 
English factory at Firando, established by Saris and conducted by Cockes, 
until the English left ? When, in the reign of Charles II., the English 
sought to renew the trade with Japan, was it not the Dutch who hastened 
to inform the imperial government that the wife of Charles was the daughter 
of the King of Portugal, thus arraying the deep-seated and ancient Japanese 
hatred of the Portuguese against the English ? When the ' Phaeton,' under 
Pellew, visited Nagasaki, in 1808, was it not M. Doefi", the Dutch chief at 
Dezima, who devised and counselled the plan whereby the English were to 



INTKODUCTION. 81 

have been murdered to a man ? When Java was in possession of the Eng- 
lish, and Holland, for a time, had been blotted from the list of nations, was 
it not the same M. Doeff, who, to the craft of the trader, added the cunning 
of the diplomatist, and, by treachery to the Japanese in the bribery of their 
officials, contrived, at one and the same time, to pay the debts of Dezima 
and enrich himself personally, out of the two expeditions sent by Sir Stam- 
ford Raffles ? " 

And now, when the United States have, without seeing a Dutchman, or 
using a Dutch document, successfully negotiated a treaty, Holland stands 
forth, and by a formal official report from her minister of colonies, declares 
that she will now " perform the agreeable task of showing the persevering 
and disinterested efforts which the Dutch government has made " to cause 
Japan to open her ports to the commerce of the United States. A brief 
notice of this extraordinary document is called for by a regard to the truth 
of history. 

The statement of the Dutch " minister of colonies," when condensed, is 
substantially this : That in the year 1844, about the time of Commodore 
Biddle's visit to Japan, the then King of Holland, William II, wrote a let- 
ter to the Emperor of Japan, in which attention was called to the introduc- 
tion of steam in navigation, the consequent increased development of com- 
merce in the Japanese seas, and the danger likely to result to Japan from 
her rigid system of excluding foreigners from the Kingdom. It recom- 
mended friendly and commercial relations as the surest means of avoiding 
collisions ; and finally, from a grateful sense of the long-continued favor 
shown to the Dutch by the Japanese, it tendered to the latter the " disinter- 
ested counsel to relax the laws against foreigners," and offered to send an 
envoy to give fuller explanations to Japan of what she should do, provided 
the Emperor desired it. This letter, the Dutch document states, contains 
the principles which have formed the basis of all Holland's subsequent 
action, so far as other powers are concerned. 

In 1845, the Emperor caused an answer to be sent to the letter, in which 
it was politely, but very decidedly, announced, that Japan had no wish to 
alter her ancient laws with respect to foreigners. 

With this the Dutch remained content ; and, so far from pressing the 
subject in any way, in 1846 they became the medium of announcing to the 
civilized world an edict of Japan, forbidding foreigners to make charts and 
drawings of the Japanese waters and coasts, and forbidding shipwrecked 
Japanese sailors to return to their country in any ships hut those of the 
Netherlands and China. 

Presently, when, in 1852, it became certain that an expedition was to be 
sent from the United States, under Commodore Perry, the Dutch forthwith 
sent out orders to their governor general in the Indies to address the gov- 
ernor of Nagasaki, requesting that he would appoint a confidential agent to 
6 



82 INTEODUCTION. 

enter into negotiations with the Dutch chief at Dezima, " about the means 
that the latter should indicate in order to preserve Japan against the dan- 
gers that threatened her^ And at the end of the governor general's letter 
was an intimation to the Nagasaki authorities that the Dutch might he forced 
to abandon Japan entirely, if hostile collisions with other nations should be 
the result of perseverance in her system of exclusion. This, it is claimed, 
was a renewal of the effort to open Japan on the principles set forth in the 
letter of William II, in 1844. From 1844 to 1852 the Dutch made no effort 
at all, on the ground, as the document alleges, that it was expedient to wait 
a more favorable opportunity. 

In 1852, the Dezima chief was furnished, by the governor general, with 
instructions to urge upon the Japanese government a change in its policy of 
exclusion, not particularly with reference to the Americans^ but in favor of 
all nations who hitherto had lived in peace with Japan. At the same time 
powers to negotiate with Japan were sent to the Dezima chief, and the draft 
of a treaty was furnished him by his government. He was also ordered to 
conform to the instructions of the governor general and the draft of the 
treaty, if he should be consulted " in the Japanese American affairs." The 
draft of the treaty was substantially this : 

Article I. The relations now existing between Japan and the Nether- 
lands to be confirmed. 

Article II. The port of Nagasaki to be opened to other nations beside 
the Dutch for the following purposes, viz : to procure provisions and navy 
Btores ; to repair vessels ; and to take care of sick seamen. 

Article III. Other nations beside the Dutch " may even be admitted to 
trade : " provided they conclude a treaty with Japan on the bases expressed 
in the next article. 

Article IV. (a) Trade to be limited to the port of Nagasaki. 

[h) Every nation admitted to trade to have its own consul. 

(c) Japanese government to indicate to foreign merchants a quarter in 
Nagasaki for their residence. 

[d) Trade to be carried on with the privileged Japanese merchants of 
the five imperial cities, Yedo, Miako, Ohosaka, Sahai, and Nagasaki, and 
placed under the care of the governor of Nagasaki. 

{e) Agents of the Japanese princes allowed to buy foreign wares, and 
to pay for them with the products of their principalities. 

{f ) Japanese government to make regulations as to the manner of car- 
rying on traffic; such regulations to be enforced by the police of Nagasaki. 

(g) Japanese government to issue notes, payable at the imperial treasury, 
to facilitate trade with foreigners. 

(h) Foreign traders allowed to pay out and receive the Japanese copper 
coin, in the matter of daily household expenses. 



INTRODUCTION. 83 

(i) Right reserved to the Japanese government of imposing a moderate 
tariff of duties on foreign importations. 

(y) All differences arising in trade to be settled by the consul of the 
foreign trader and the governor of Nagasaki, or his proxy. 

(k) Crimes committed by a foreigner to be tried and punished by the 
nation to which the criminal belongs. 

[I) The Japanese government to indicate two places where the foreign 
nations, admitted to trade, may establish depots for coal. One shall be in 
the bay of " Grood Hope," in Jesso, in the northern part of the Empire ; 
and the other in the southern part, on one of the islands of the Linschop 
archipelago. 

Article V. The stipulations ahove mentioned shall he submitted to every 
foreign power that desires to make a treaty with Japan^ and shall form 
the bases of such treaty. 

Article VI. In case treaties are made with foreign powers on the fore- 
going bases, the Dutch shall have all the privileges granted to the most 
favored nation. 

This draft was accompanied by a document from his Majesty the King 
of the Netherlands, entitled " Explanatory note to the draft of the treaty 
to be concluded between his Majesty the King of the Netherlands and his 
Majesty the Emperor of Japan." 

This commences with the declaration that "his Majesty appreciates 
the difficulties which exist in the Japanese institutions, in satisfying the de- 
mands of foreign powers for entering into commercial negotiations with that 
Empire, and foresees the dangers to which Japan is inevitably exposed, if the 
government of that Empire does not listen to reasonable demands of that 
kind." It then proceeds to state that " his Majesty, by the communications of 
his subjects, who have long navigated to Japan, and are well acquainted with 
the affairs of that Empire, esteems himself, indeed, better able than any 
other prince to make propositions to the sovereign of that Empire, in order 
to mitigate the severe laws against foreigners." " Therefore, the King has 
taken the resolution to cause to be drawn up and presented a treaty between 
their Majesties the King of the Netherlands and the Emperor of Japan, in 
which, in respecting the laws and the ancient customs of the Empire of 
Japan, is indicated the way, by means of which, for the future, may be 
maintained, not only friendly commercial relations with the subjects of his 
Majesty the King of the Netherlands, but also with those maritime nations 
who desire commerce with Japan, or who, having peaceful purposes, are 
thrown by accident on the coasts of the Empire." " For the elucidation of a 
treaty drawn up in that spirit, his Majesty causes the following lines to be 
written." Then follows a separate comment on each of the articles of the 
treaty, and particularly on each of the bases enumerated under Art. IV, 
recommending and enforcing them all. 



84 INTRODUCTION. 

These documents were all prepared and placed in the hands of the Dutch 
officials as soon as possible after the government of the Netherlands became 
certain that an expedition would sail from the United States, and some 
months hefore Commodore Perry left our shores. 

In anticipation of the contemplated enterprise, the government of the 
United States, in July, 1852, (at which time the Dutch draft of a treaty had 
been sent out on its way to Dezima,) applied respectfully to the government 
of the Netherlands, announcing officially that the American squadron would 
be sent, that its visit was meant to be friendly, and that its object was, if 
possible, to obtain from Japan some mitigation of her system of exclusion ; 
it asked, also, that instructions might be given to the Dezima chief to afford, 
if it should be desired by us, his official co-operation in furthering the accom- 
plishment of our object. This request was answered by a promise that such 
instructions should be given ; and, by request, copies were furnished to the 
United States of the letter of William II, of 1844, and of the Emperor's 
answer to it of 1845 ; but of the draft of a Dutch treaty then on its way to 
Japan, or of any accompanying instructions to the Dutch officials in the east, 
the United States, of course, heard and knew nothing. 

Thus affairs stood when our squadron sailed on the 24th of November, 
1852. Long before it arrived in the Japanese waters, the Dutch chief at 
Dezima had been endeavoring to carry out his instructions, and negoiicde 
with the Japanese the treaty of which the draft had been sent to him. 
But the authorities of Japan persisted in their refusal to appoint a person of 
consideration as their confidential agent to negotiate any treaty at all. In 
this state of affairs, the Dezima chief, " rightly resolving not to sacrifice the 
business to a mere matter of form," as the Dutch document expresses it, at 
once addressed the governor of Nagasaki, and attempted to open a negotia- 
tion with him. He laid before him the several items in the draft of the 
treaty with which he had been furnished, accompanying them with expla- 
nations, and set forth what he deemed the principles which were for the 
Japanese interest, and which should predominate in the negotiations which 
he thought might result from the anticipated propositions of the United 
States ; for both he and the Japanese knew that our squadron was on its 
way. He concluded his letter as follows: "His Majesty, the King of the 
Netherlands, expects that the peace of the Japanese Empire can be pre- 
served, if the government of Japan will answer the propositions of the 
United States in the manner indicated; " that is, on the bases set forth 
in the Dutch draft of a treaty. But the Japanese treated this attempt 
as they had all the previous ones from the Dezima chief; and its only 
effect was to quicken their native shrewdness, and prompt to more nu- 
merous demands for explanations, and more thorough investigations into the 
subject. 

At length, in June, 1853, the American squadron, purposely avoiding 



INTRODUCTION. 85 

Nagasaki, made its appearance in the bay of Yedo, and thus was in Japan 
before the Dutch were able to anticipate the American commissioner in 
making a treaty. The ximerican squadron never was at Nagasaki, and our 
representative never had the least communication with the Dutch chief at 
Dezima. 

The Eussian squadron soon after entered the port of Nagasaki, and the 
result of that visit has already been stated. Russia made no treaty with 
Japan. 

Commodore Perry signed the treaty with Japan on the last day of March, 
1854; and the Dutch government dispatched their war steamer Soemhing 
from Batavia for Japan on the 25th of July, 1854. This was deemed a 
measure of expediency, as the sight of the American and Russian steamers 
had excited the liveliest interest in the Japanese. The Soemhing^ during 
her stay, was visited by men of the highest rank, and, in fact, was made a 
school of instruction for a large number of Japanese. Finally, the English 
squadron, under Admiral Stirling, came in on the 7th of September, 1854, 
and deepened the impression which had been made in Japan by the spectacle 
of so many armed ships of different nations. 

The document before us concludes by claiming great merit for the Dutch, 
in having opened Japan to the world. It thus speaks : " The Netherlands 
have understood their mission, when, in consequence of the course of events, 
they placed themselves at the head to operate, in the interest of all, a miti- 
gation in the system of exclusion that existed relative to foreign nations in 
Japan. The letter of his Majesty, the late William II, is thereof an irre- 
fragable proof." " The United States of North America have obtained, by 
treaty, the opening to their flag of two ports in the Japanese Empire ; and 
one other power seems to have succeeded in a similar manner. In the face 
of such results, we cannot deny or undervalue the impression and effect pro- 
duced by the presence of powerful fleets, or the influence exerted by the 
simultaneous and serious attempts of different nations. But we wish to see 
acknowledged the part that the Netherlands had in it by their advice and 
persuasion. Indeed, these fleets realized the predictions of your Majesty's 
royal father, and served to procure a more ready acceptance of his disinter- 
ested advice. The draft of a treaty of 1852 — the letter of the chief at 
Dezima of the 2d of November, 1852 — the communication of the Governor 
of Nagasaki of the 9th of November, 1853 — finally, the comparing of the 
said draft of a treaty with the convention concluded by the United States — 
all this presents the undeniable fact, that the measures taken, in consequence 
of your Majesty's orders, have powerfully contributed to the results obtained 
by other nations. 

" In fact, the Netherlands have always desired an opening of Japanese 
ports, in the general interest, and in favor of commerce. Attached disin- 
terestedly to that policy, the Netherlands have sought no privileges for them- 



86 INTRODUCTION. 

selves in Japan ; but tliey have, in equity, desired and obtained treatment 
similar to tbat of others, when to these favors were granted." 

These are the facts as set forth by the Dutch, and this the extent of their 
claims ; nor would we in the slightest degree detract from what may be justly 
their due. "We confess, however, that, to us the importance as well as effects 
of Dutch co-operation in our treaty seem to be somewhat exaggerated. It 
sometimes happens that men and nations cannot work to the production of 
their own particular ends without thereby contributing, whether they wish it 
or not, to the accomplishment of similar ends sought by others. The suc- 
cess, however, of others, which they never sought, and which is but an acci- 
dent resulting from their efforts to another end, can scarcely be claimed as a 
ground of merit, or demand very loud acknowledgments from those who may 
have been thus casually benefited. The basis of a claim, quantum meruit, 
is some benefit purposely done by one to another, or some loss purposely 
sustained for his advantage. We readily concede that the Dezima chief, 
with the draft of the Dutch treaty in his possession, strove faithfully and 
judiciously, as became him, to induce the Japanese authorities to accede to 
the terms of that treaty and sign it, before our ambassador could reach 
Japan. Of this we have no right to complain. We concede also that his 
proceedings brought to the knowledge of the Japanese what the nature of a 
commercial treaty was, and furnished them also with some valuable hints as 
to some of its provisions, which afforded them topics of reflection and inves- 
tigation, and prepared them for the consideration of our treaty when it should 
be proposed ; but it will scarcely be pretended that the Dutch action was 
prompted by the direct design of aiding the United States ; and still less, 
that it induced the Japanese government to depart from its long established 
policy of exclusion. The Dutch were themselves endeavoring to negotiate 
a treaty ; and such a departure must be pre-supposed before it was expedient 
to present the terms of a treaty at all. 

But further, as to this point of departing from their settled policy, it is 
on the record, that the letter of the King of Holland himself on this very 
subject, written in 1844, was answered by the Japanese government in 1845, 
with a most explicit declaration that they would not abandon their ancient 
policy and usage. At this time then (1845) the Dutch seem to have accom- 
plished nothing ; and it is not on the record that they ever renewed their 
effort from this time forward until 1852, ivhen they knew the American ex- 
pedition would certainly be sent ; and the mode of renewal was to offer to 
Japan a treaty which they had prepared to suit themselves, and which was 
for their own benefit. For it will be remembered that by that treaty no 
foreign nation was to be allowed by treaty to trade with Japan, but on cer- 
tain bases, laid down in the 4th article of the Dutch draft. Now suppose 
Japan had signed the treaty proposed to her by Holland, what would have 
necessarily resulted ? The following consequences, viz : 



INTRODUCTION. 87 

1. That the Dutch should alone dictate what kind of treaties all other 
foreign nations might make with Japan. 

2. That Japan, an independent power, should preclude herself from the 
right of making any treaty but such as Holland should approve. 

3. That as Holland was to be placed on the footing of the most favored 
nations in any treaty Japan might make, the Dutch, in addition to the privi- 
leges they already possessed in Japan, and in addition to any others they 
might obtain by future negotiation, should have also every privilege of every 
kind that any nation might chance to get by treaty. 

Had the Dezima chief succeeded in negotiating his treaty before Com- 
modore Perry's arrival, would it have benefited the United States ? 

But this is not all. We are constrained, from public documents of the 
Dutch themselves, to believe that they never cordially furthered our efforts 
to efi'ect a treaty which should open Japan. In a letter from the Dutch 
governor general of the Indies, written from Java on the 2 2d September, 
1852, addressed to Commodore Perry, (then on his way to Japan,) the com- 
modore is informed that a dispatch for the Dezima chief is enclosed, which 
the commodore may transmit to him, in case he wishes his co-operation. 
Now, at this very time, the governor general well knew that the Dezima 
chief had the draft of a treaty, and instructions to have it ratified if possible ; 
and every efi"ort was being made to have it thus ratified hefore Commodore 
Terry could arrive. Had it been thus ratified, we have seen above what 
sort of co-operation the Dezima chief would have rendered ; it would have 
been to allow Japan to negotiate just such a treaty as Holland had seen fit 
to make for her and for us. But further still — the last clause of the 
governor general's letter to Commodore Perry is suggestive of a fact preg- 
nant with evidence as to the cordiality with which Holland seconded our 
efforts. " I beg to remark, in view of the object at present contemplated by 
both our governments, that in case the Netherlands chief of the factory at 
Dezima should have succeeded in opening negotiations with the government 
of Japan, it is not unlikely that any proof of co-operation between America 
and Holland would prejudice these negotiations, as you are aware thai the 
American expedition to Japan has not always been represented to he of a 
wholly friendly and peaceful character.'''' Of course, these latter words, to 
have any meaning, must imply that the Japanese had doubts of the friendly 
nature of our visit. Noiv, who told the Japanese that it was unfriendly 9 
The Dutch were the only Europeans with whom they had any intercourse, 
or from whom they could hear anytl^ing about it. And from the Dutch 
they did hear it ; for, in anticipation of the American movements, instruc- 
tions were sent by the Netherlands to their governor general in Batavia to 
write to Japan and invite negotiation about the means that should be adopted 
" to preserve Japan from the dangers that threatened her." The Dutch, 
therefore, told the Japanese to look for danger from our visit. 



88 INTRODUCTION. 

Commodore Perry never invoked the aid of the Dutch, from the begin- 
ning to the end of his mission, but purposely avoided them ; and the treaty 
which he made is essentially different from that which the Dutch had pro- 
vided. The draft from the Hague made Nagasaki the only port open to 
foreign ships for obtaining supplies, repairing vessels, and recruiting the 
sick; and provided that foreigners might "even be admitted to trade," after 
they had made a treaty on the Dutch basis. 

The two ports of Simoda and Hakodadi, with a considerable space around 
each, are, by the American treaty, thrown open for trade ; and in case of 
distress, or when driven by stress of weather, all the ports in Japan are 
open to ships of the United States ; and as, when Holland shall succeed in 
making a commercial treaty with Japan, we cannot but hope and believe 
she will be admitted to like favors with ourselves, we have been inclined to 
think that the Dutch are far more indebted to us for releasing them from 
their imprisonment of two centuries and a half at Dezima, than we are for 
any aid they have rendered us, directly or indirectly, in negotiating our 
treaty with Japan. That Holland should seek to advance her own interest 
is both natural and proper ; when other nations succeed in promoting theirs, 
it is scarcely graceful or dignified to deny to them the modicum of merit 
which may attach to their success. 

It only remains to say a word about the singular statements of Dr. Yon 
Siebold. This individual was the physician employed by the Dutch at 
Dezima, and has published, more largely than all his predecessors combined, 
the result of his observations during his residence. Of the value of his pub- 
lications we have already spoken During his continuance in the Empire, 
however, a circumstance is said to have occurred involving a very melancholy 
catastrophe, in which Von Siebold was an unwilling actor. The story is thus 
related by a modern writer on Japan. Siebold had been with Colonel Yan 
Strurler, the Dezima chief, to Yedo; the Japanese astronomer, Takahasi 
Lakusaimon, had, in violation of the law, furnished him with a copy of a 
recently made >map of Japan. The draughtsman who made the copy having 
become, from some cause, offended with the astronomer, denounced him to 
the authorities An investigation followed, Siebold's correspondence with 
Takahasi was demanded, and the topographical and geographical information 
contained therein, added to the fact that Siebold was not by birth a Hol- 
lander, led to the suspicion that the physician of Dezima was a Russian 
spy. This caused the investigation to become more rigorous still, and 
severe measures were threatened. All who were known to be friends and 
correspondents of Siebold, with a single exception, were thrown into prison. 
The excepted individual was made a witness for the government. He broke 
his oath in the cause of friendship, and privately informed Siebold of what 
was designed against him. This warning enabled him to place his most 
valuable documents in security, and to prepare copies for the use of the 



INTRODUCTION. 89 

government commissioners, before his papers were seized and his person 
arrested at Dezima. Siebold was repeatedly examined by the governor of 
Nagasaki, and steadily refused to name any of his Japanese accomplices; 
and requested to be permitted to pass the residue of his life in a Japanese 
prison, as a hostage for the innocence of his friends, and as a penalty for the 
consequences of his transgressions. The investigation lasted nearly a year. 
Siebold ivas banished from Japan; and Takahasi and the draughtsman who 
accused him both committed suicide. Whether this story be true or not, 
in every particular, it was, at least, circulated on the continent of Europe, 
and in this form it had reached the United States before our expedition 
sailed. 

After Commodore Perry had been designated as commander, Siebold 
applied for employment as a member of the expedition, and so anxious was 
he to go, that he caused great and unusual influence to be exerted for the 
accomplishment of his wishes. Commodore Perry, for several reasons, and 
particularly from a desire not to compromit himself, or hazard the success of 
his mission by taking back to Japan a man generally believed to have been 
banished, resisted all influences, even the highest, and persisted in his positive 
refusal to have Siebold in any vessel of the squadron. 

At length our treaty was made, and the fact announced to the world. 
Within a few months, and since such announcement, has appeared a pam- 
phlet, by Siebold, published at Bonn, and bearing the following title : 
" Authentic account of the efforts of the Netherlands and of Russia toward 
the opening of Japan to the navigation and commerce of all nations." We 
regret its publication for the author's sake. It subserves no scientifi.c end, 
nor does it add a single fact concerning Japan to what the author has already 
communicated in his previous valuable writings. It is evidently the product 
of mortified and irritated vanity, and has two objects in view which are 
perfectly obvious. The one is to glorify the author, the other to disparage 
the United States and its Japan expedition. Appreciating, as we sincerely 
do, the voluminous writings of Dr. Von Siebold concerning Japan, we regret 
exceedingly the egotism, vanity, and self-importance exhibited in the pursuit 
of the one object ; while we are not disposed to overlook, without rebuke, 
the misrepresentations and impertinence displayed in the accomplishment of 
the other. The tenor and spirit of the whole work may be found at the com- 
mencement, on the third page of the book, in the following statement : " We 
have now to thanh the Russians^ and not the Americans^ for the opening 
of Japan?'' When we remember that, up to a veiy late period, the Rus- 
sians had effected no treaty at all with Japan^ the reader may possibly 
incline to the belief, that the shrewd Japanese were not far from the truth, 
when they suspected Von Siebold to be a Russian spy, and banished him. 

Of his intimate connexion with Russia there can be no doubt; the 
pamphlet itself shows it ; and though in the revelations it makes, its purpose 



90 INTEODUCTION. 

is to glorify tlie author and show his great political importance, yet his boasts 
of services rendered to Russia, his published extracts from the flattering let- 
ter of a Russian official of high rank, his acknowledgment of a summons 
and visit to St. Petersburgh, and his declaration that Japan knows Russia 
to be the most powerful nation in the world, are a\\ facts indicative of the 
author's close and interested relation to the great northern power. Indeed, 
it has been said by some, that by his advice the Russian squadron was sent 
to checkmate us in our attempt to open Japan. If this be so, then his 
extreme desire to go in our squadron may have been produced by his entire 
conviction, nay, assured knowledge, that his presence alone would have 
proved fatal to the success of our mission. 

Of the inordinate conceit and self-importance of Yon Siebold there is, 
unfortunately, abundant evidence. Thus, he informs us, that he it was who 
induced King William II, in 1844, to write to the Emperor of Japan; and 
states that the original of the King's letter was deposited with him and is 
still in his possession. He dwells, at length, upon the vast amount of valua- 
ble information he had acquired in Japan, upon the admirable opportunities 
he enjoyed for that purpose, and more than insinuating that all the rest of 
the world, compared with him, is in almost entire ignorance, he contrives to 
make the pamphlet an advertisement of his really valuable works, of which 
he retains, we believe, the sale in his own hands ; at least we know that it 
was not to be obtained in the book-stores of Europe, and that the copy pro- 
cured for the Astor library was purchased by the accomplished superin- 
tendent from Yon Siebold himself 

So, too, the services he has rendered to Russia lose nothing of their val- 
ue and importance in his representations ; and we are furnished with an 
extract of a letter from a distinguished Russian statesman, addressed to our 
author, the publication of which by Yon Siebold proves that the noble cor- 
respondent of whom he boasts could not have enumerated modesty among the 
personal qualities for which he commends the learned physician. 

We are also told of his intimacy with some of the Japanese nobility, 
though he dared not show his face in Japan, nor was he at liberty even to 
address to them a letter. 

A letter from M. Yon Siebold, addressed to one of the gentlemen of the 
expedition, whom he ostentatiously calls in his pamphlet, " my correspondent 
on board of the Mississippi," is now lying before us. A single extract will 
illustrate the weakness of which we have spoken : 

" I see with much pleasure that Commodore Perry knows how to appre- 
ciate my profound knowledge and long experience of Japanese affairs. I 
was very sorry not to have been called upon to trace a programme for the 
American expedition to Japan. I would have produced a plan to open the 
Japanese Empire to the world, under the watchwords ' humanity and patience.' 
I do not transgress the bounds of modesty when I say that I, only^ am able 



INTEODUCTION. 91 

to trace such a plan. Tlie Netherland government knows my views, and has 
undertaken to support tlie peaceful intentions of the President of the United 
States towards the Japanese government." 

" Probably all overtures will be declined, or they will try to delay, as 
long as possible, giving a final answer. The Japanese government under- 
stands perfectly the art of protracting diplomatic negotiations, to exhaust 
patience; of spinning out endlessly the thread of objections against overtures 
for a commercial treaty. They will recall constantly the unalterable nature 
of their laws ; will urge the danger of breaches of etiquette or courtesy, the 
want of articles for exportation, the great influx of foreigners. It will also 
be pretended that the Siogun is not allowed to enter into negotiations with 
foreign nations (other than the Hollanders) without the co-operation of the 
Mikado ; and it is easy to understand that the Mikado will decide for or 
against a treaty according to the will of the Council of State. All these 
are only pretexts, and the sole reason why the Japanese object to more inti- 
mate relations with foreigners is the fear that Christianity may bo introduced 
into the country, and so the Siogun dynasty, which consolidated itself by the 
extermination of Christianity, may be put in jeopardy. The fanatic Gutzlaff 
and Father Forcade (now in heaven, I hope), the narrow-minded missiona- 
ries, have, by their conduct of late, contributed to excite afresh the fears of 
the Japanese government, who saw in these two missionaries the whole of 
Chi'istendom marching against Japan. 

" It shows a want of caution, in that the letter of the honorable President 
states that the messengers whom he has sent to the Emperor of Japan are 
not missionaries. Why insert this assurance, calculated to excite distrust ? 
It is a matter of course that an ambassador is not a missionary; and what 
guarantee can be given to the Japanese government that there prevails no 
intention to propagate Christianity in Japan ? No maritime power but Hol- 
land enjoys her confidence. Holland only can make a movement to open 
Japan to the commerce of the world. Holland has not listened to my advice, 
and will repent it." 

" Please to pray Commodore Perry not to allow his patience to be 
exhausted, to receive quietly the objections of the Japanese government; 
but then he must declare decidedly, that America will not trouble herself 
about the present religion and politics of Japan. America leaves these 
untouched, but insists on a commercial treaty to be efi'ected by peaceful nego- 
tiation. Probably the proposals will not be listened to ; but beg Commodore 
Perry not to make hostile demonstrations against the good, faithful, innocent 
people of Japan, but to intimate to the Japanese government that it is in his 
power to destroy their cities, ships, and men, but that to do so would give him 
pain ; that he will, therefore, give them a year to consider his proposals, 
because he would not by force of arms seek to obtain conditions which might 
as well be secured by friendly measures." 



92 INTKODUCTION. 

" Then, if notice is given to me in proper time, I would still be willirg 
to submit a plan by which the United States government may attain its 
purposes." 

With reference to this letter, in the pamphlet before us M. Von Siebold 
states that by means of his " correspondent on board the Mississippi " he 
did not fail " to advise Commodore Perry to follow a peaceful plan, which 
counsel seems to have borne good fruit." 

It is very remarkable how strikingly facts in the history of our negotia- 
tion have contradicted the confident predictions of this gentleman, who pro- 
fessed such " profound knowledge and long experience of Japanese affairs." 

The Dutch, he states, were the only people who could establish a commer- 
cial treaty with Japan, and they had undertaken to sustain our effort. The 
facts are, that they were not able to make a treaty for themselves until 
long after ours was consummated ; that their support of our efforts consist- 
ed, as we have shown, in the attempt to make a treaty for themselves before 
our arrival, committing the Japanese to agree to no treaty with any foreign 
power but such as they prescribed ; and that from the arrival to the depart- 
ure of our ships, in no mode, either directly or indirectly, did they have any 
communication with the Dutch, nor was the aid of the latter either invoked 
or employed in the slightest degree in the negotiation of our treaty. 

M. Yon Siebold predicted that our overtures would be declined, or that 
a final answer would be delayed as long as possible. The facts are, that our 
overtures were not declined, and that, under the circumstances of the death 
of the Emperor and other events, the delay was not unreasonably long. 
The squadron returned to Yedo bay on the 13th of February, and all the 
terms of the treaty were substantially agreed on by the 23d of March, and it 
was formally signed on the 31st of that month. So that about six weeks 
elapsed from the commencement of the negotiation to its close in a treaty. 

M. Yon Siebold predicted that various pretexts would be resorted to by 
the Japanese to protract the negotiation. Singularly enough, the fact is, 
that of the six anticipated objections specified by Yon Siebold, not one was 
urged in the negotiation as insurmountable, and five were not mentioned at 
all. The only one named was the unalterable nature of the Japanese laws. 

And as to the complacency with which M. Yon Siebold congratulates 
himself on the " good fruit " resulting from his counsel, we have only to re- 
mark that we are very sorry his good advice did not arrive in time to afford 
the Commodore any aid, inasmuch as his course had been fully decided on, 
and in part followed without the slightest reference to it. In fact ^ Commo- 
dore Ferry never saw M. Von SicholcPs letter at all. 

Of the disposition to disparage the United States and its expedition to 
Japan, the proofs are quite as unequivocal as those we have given above 
of self-conceit and arrogance. Our country is more than once brought into 
disadvantageous comparison with Russia ; is accused of being influenced by 



INTRODUCTION. 93 

tlie most selfish motives ; of seeking her own advantage without the slightest 
regard to that of Japan or of the rest of the civilized world ; and in this 
respect her conduct is contrasted with that of Holland, which is affirmed to 
have been always prompted by a most liberal desire to open Japan to the 
commerce of the world. Russia, also, is said to be benevolently pursuing 
the same end, and also to be seeking the free exercise of Christian worship 
for all Russian subjects in Japan. With Russia's zeal for the protection of 
Christians in Japan we have nothing to do ; we may remark, however, it is a 
little curious that Russia should not be warned to avoid the subject of Chris- 
tianity in Japan, while Commodore Perry is so decidedly advised by M. Yon 
Siebold, carefully to proclaim that he is no Christian missionary ; and is in- 
formed that the dread of the introduction of Christianity is the only real ob- 
stacle to his success. 

The chief magistrate of our country is also rebuked for a want of the usual 
diplomatic form, and of the dignified tone, so necessary to be used toward 
the sovereign of a country so much accustomed to etiquette. 

Piqued at Commodore Perry's success in the bay of Yedo, when M. 
Von Siebold had predicted that he would be obliged to go to Nagasaki, and 
that his proposals would not be listened to anywhere else, if, indeed, they 
would be listened to at all, he sneeringly attributes his success to what he 
imputes as a faulty viz : that Commodore Perry informed the Japanese that 
the mere request to go to Nagasaki would, if repeated, be construed into an 
insult to the United States. And, finally, though we have succeeded, it is to 
be of but little value to us, inasmuch as Russia and the Netherlands can bet- 
ter supply Japan's wants than we can, and their political and commercial 
regulations are such as the Siogoon can sympathize with, while ours are 
not. 

Of the selfishness of our motives we readily admit that we sought com- 
mercial intercourse with Japan, because we supposed it would be advanta- 
geous. Such, we believe, is the motive of all intelligent nations in estab- 
lishing friendly relations with others. We can only smile at the simplicity 
of those who expect to deceive the world by professions of pure, disinterested 
friendship from one nation toward another, irrespective of all considerations 
of national benefit. We think that every nation which has sought intercourse 
with Japan has supposed that such intercourse would prove advantageous 
to the seeker ; nor are we aware that there is anything very criminal or sel- 
fish in the desire that advantage may result from the communication. But 
it is quite possible to believe that benefit to hoth nations may result from 
the intercourse we would establish, and such benefit may be honestly desired, 
even while we seek our own interest. This is not selfishness. But further, 
we beg distinctly to state the fact that Commodore Perry did express to the 
Japanese commissioners the desire that other nations might have the benefits 
of our treaty, or of one similar to it, and received for reply that there were 



94 INTEODUCTIOJT. 

many commercial nations on the globe ; and tliat if they wished to have a 
treaty they should do as we had done, visit Japan and seek to make one. 

That our late President (Mr. Fillmore) should have been wanting in the 
courtly proprieties of diplomatic etiquette, and prove himself ignorant of the 
dignified language in which it became him to address a sovereign, is certainly 
very lamentable. But we are comforted by the reflection that his Japanese 
majesty was not offended by the manly, yet respectful, frankness of our re- 
publican chief; that the Emperor seems perfectly to have understood what 
he said, (which is something unusual in diplomacy ;) and that, through his 
commissioners, he responded in a very friendly and cordial manner to the 
propositions made by our President. At all events, we made a treaty with 
Japan satisfactory to both governments. Our rude ignorance of propriety 
was thus kindly overlooked; and we, therefore, hope that M. Yon Siebold, 
the self- constituted court chamberlain of Japan, will henceforth generously 
forbear to speak of the shortcomings of such a semi-civilized people and gov- 
ernment as ours. It may indicate our barbarism, but we would rather be 
clowns than calumniators. 

We plead guilty, too, to the charge that Commodore Perry went to the 
bay of Yedo and refused to go to Nagasaki ; and that he added to this enor- 
mity the very plain declaration that "the Americans will never submit to 
the restrictions which have been imposed upon the Dutch and Chinese, and 
any further allusion to such restraints will be considered offensive ; " to 
which we will add that the Japanese commissioners put in writing, as one 
of the points agreed upon between them and Commodore Perry, that " the 
citizens of the United States will not submit to degradations like those im- 
posed upon the Dutch and Chinese." And Commodore Perry's countrymen 
expected him to say precisely what he did say, and are quite satisfied with 
the result. 

It only remains to be added that, until since the return of our expedition, 
neither the Dutch nor Russians were able to effect a treaty. England and 
the United States alone succeeded ; and England readily admits that, in point 
of time, ours was the first. This is all we have ever said ; and we conclude 
with the wish that all the powers of Europe, seeking commercial treaties with 
Japan, may succeed as well as England and ourselves, and that most inter- 
esting Empire thus be opened to, and enriched by, free communication with 
the civilized world. 



v\ 



\)b EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

familiar tliouglit ; the agency of steam was, of course, involved, and fuel for 
its production was indispensable. Hence arose inquiries for that great min- 
eral agent of civilization, coal. Where was it to be obtained on the long 
route from California to Asia? Another inquiry presented itself: With 
what far distant eastern nations should we trade? China was in some 
measure opened to us ; but there was, beside, a terra incognita in Japan, 
which, while it stimulated curiosity, held out also temptations which invited 
commercial enterprise. True, we knew not much about its internal regu- 
lations ; we knew that- it had, for centuries, isolated itself, as it were, from 
the world, and persisted in a system of excluding foreigners from inter- 
course ; that but one European nation was allowed to approach for purposes 
of trade, and that repeated efforts made by others for a similar privilege 
had uniformly failed of success. But we knew, too, that it possessed 
valuable productions, and ought to be brought into communication with 
the rest of the world. By some, indeed, the proposition was boldly avowed f 
that Japan had no right thus to cut herself off from the community of , 
nations; and that what she would not yield to national comity should be 
wrested from her by force. 

It was, perhaps, but natural that the minds of our naval officers should 
be drawn strongly to a consideration of the subject of intercourse with 
Japan. Not simply to the desirableness or probable advantages of such 
intercourse, for on those points all men's minds readily reached the same 
conclusion ; but on the means by which the wished for end might be best 
attained. And this part of the subject required some study and calm reflec- 
tion, aided by such experience and knowledge of men of all latitudes as a naval 
officer would be apt to acquire in many years of active service on shipboard- 
Commodore Perry, in common with other members of his profession and 
with the rest of his countrymen, had his thoughts directed to the subject, 
with especial reference to the probabilities of accomplishing the end in view. 
He knew that there must be causes for a state of things so singular as was 
presented in the complete voluntary isolation of a whole people ; and his 
first object was, therefore, to obtain a correct history of the past career of 
Japan. For this purpose he mastered all that he could derive from books, 
and found that the exclusive system of Japan was not the result of any 
national idiosyncrasy, but was caused by peculiar circumstances, long since 
passed, and was, in fact, in direct opposition to what history proved to be 
the natural temperament and disposition of the Japanese people. He also 
found, in a careful examination of the repeated efforts of other nations to 
break down the barrier that shut them out, what he supposed to be the 
secret of their failures. Peculiar circumstances in the then political condi- 
tion of the power seeking admission ; the rivalry of different nations striving 
to thwart each other; the indiscretion, not to say arrogance, of some of 
those entrusted with the mission, who sought to bully a brave people into 



M I S S I N T O J A P A N . 1»7 

acquiescence with their wishes ; a misconception of the true character of the 
Japanese, who readily distinguish between obsecpious servility and a manly 
spirit of conciliation, founded on the principle of doing what is kind and 
just, but submitting, not for an instant, to what is insulting or wrong ; all 
these s6emed to him to be elements of failure clearly to be traced, in a 
greater or less degree, in tlie efforts that had been made. Beside, a disad- 
vantage under which the European nations labored, was, that Japan had 
known something concerning all of them for many years, and, indeed, had 
been more or less brought into contact with them. Thus Portugal had 
given early and unpardonable offence in encouraging domestic treason; 
England (who once had foothold) had abandoned it ; one of her kings had 
married a Portuguese princess ; one of her officers (Pellew) had committed 
what the Japanese deemed an insolent outrage in their waters ; Russia had 
taken possession of some of her islands, had excited suspicions of ulterior 
designs by fortifying on another " annexed " territory, at the mouth of the 
Amoor, and, as the Japanese Emperor said, "had an inclination for Japan;" 
while Holland had so quietly submitted to degradation, imprisonment and 
insult for two hundred years, that the Japanese unquestionably formed their 
opinion of European foreigners, in some measure, from the Dutch. 

The United States occupied a different position from all the above named 
powers, for they had not been brought into such contact with Japan as 
awakened unpleasant associations. The only effort we had made toward 
opening friendly relations, (and it scarcely deserves the name,) was in send- 
ing two ships under Commodore Biddle, which remained at anchor some 
eight or ten days, accomplished nothing, and quietly left when the Japanese 
desired it. 

Commodore Perry, after careful examination, believed that, under all the 
circumstances, there was a favorable opportunity for our country to establish 
commercial relations with Japan, and avowed his belief to several of his 
brother officers, as well as to some of the dignitaries of the government, and 
eminent citizens, long before the subject was publicly discussed, and the ex- 
pedition resolved on. There were doubtless others (and among them pro- 
bably some of high station in the government) whose minds had been led to 
a similar conclusion, and who, like Commodore Perry, anticipated popular 
opinion on the subject of an expedition. Indeed, instructions had been sent 
out to Commodore Aulick, then on the East India station, directing him to 
proceed to Japan ; andthe State Department, then under the charge of Mr. 
Webster, had sought information concerning Japan from the officer who com- 
manded the Preble on her visit. Commander Glynn, who very strongly felt and 
urged the importance of establishing, if possible, a friendly communication 
between that Kingdom and our own country. We believe, however, we do 
no wrong to any one, when we say that the thought of making an immediate 
effort was urged by Commodore Perry ; and at all events, on the recall of 
7 



98 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

Commodore Aulick, lie formally proposed to tlie government of the United 
States the expedition, which was finally sent. The proposition was favorably 
received, and it was determined that a squadron should be dispatched, under 
his command, on the peaceful mission of endeavoring to open a friendly com- 
mercial intercourse with the Japanese.* 

The expedition having been resolved on, the following vessels were 
selected to compose the squadron, viz : The Mississippi steamer, which had 
been the flag ship of Commodore Perry in the Gulf during the Mexican 
war, and was deservedly his favorite vessel ; the Princeton and Alleghany 
steamers; the Vermont, 74; and the sloops-of-war Yandalia and Macedonian. 
The steamship Susquehanna, and sloops-of-war Saratoga and Plymouth were 
already on the East India station, and were to form part of the squadron. 
The armed storeships Supply, Lexington, and Southampton, were also at- 
tached to the expedition. The liveliest interest in the undertaking was 
manifested by the President, (Mr. Fillmore,) by Mr. Webster, and his suc- 
cessors in the State Department, (Messrs. Conrad and Everett,) by the 
Secretary of the Navy, (Mr. Kennedy,) and indeed by all the members of the 
Cabinet. The most liberal equipment was authorized, and the commander 
of the expedition was invested with extraordinary powers, diplomatic as well 
as naval, because much was necessarily confided to his prudence and discre- 
tion. The instructions from the department designated the East India and 
China seas and Japan as the field of service; but the great objects of the 
expedition were to procure friendly admission to Japan for purposes of trade, 
and to establish, at proper points, permanent depots of coal for our steamers 
crossing the Pacific. 

Orders were given to fit the squadron for sea with as little delay as 
possible ; yet such was the mismanagement in the equipment of the vessels, 
that more than once the public were led to suppose that the enterprise had 
been abandoned, simply from the delay in its departure. More than nine 
months had passed beyond the time when the chief of the Bureau of Con- 
struction and Equipment had promised that the Princeton should be ready, 
before that vessel was reported as completed ; and when thus reported, she 
was found, on trial, to be utterly inefficient for the intended service, owing 
to the imperfection of her boilers. Some new, and in this country untried, 
plan had been adopted in their construction or arrangement, and the experi- 
ment cost the expedition the loss of a year. The Princeton never formed 
part of the squadron, as the Powhatan was substituted for her. 

Amid these vexatious delays, however, the Commodore was not idle. 

* The subject of establishing commercial relations with the East occupied the minds of so 
many of our countrymen, that it is, of course, impossible to say, with certainty, with whom 
its discussion originated. It is, however, due to one gentleman, (Aaron H. Palmer, esq., of 
New York,) to say that he was, at least, among the earliest to call attention to its impor- 
tance. 



APPLICATIONS OF SCIENTIFIC MEN. 99 

While he was waiting for the completion of the Princeton, the misunder- 
standing arose concerning the fisheries in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and it 
became necessary to dispatch an armed vessel to that region. The Missis- 
sippi was ready for sea, and Commodore Perry was ordered to repair in her 
to the fishing grounds, and assist in amicably adjusting the respective rights 
of the English and American fishermen. Having performed this duty satis- 
factorily to the government, he returned to New York, earnestly hoping that 
he should find removed all obstacles to his speedy departure on his mission 
to the East. 

As soon as it was publicly announced that the United States had resolved 
on sending an expedition to Japan, applications came from all quarters of 
the civilized world for permission to take part in the service. Literary and 
scientific men, European as well as native, and travellers by profession, 
eagerly sought to accompany the expedition ; and extraordinary influences, 
in some instances, were brought to bear upon our government inducing it to 
second some of the applications thus made ; but Commodore Perry resolutely 
persisted in an unqualified refusal to all such requests. 

And here it may be well to explain the grounds of such refusal. The 
duties confided to the commander were of a peculiar nature, and required 
the most prudent and delicate management on his part. He had his own 
views of what he had to accomplish, and of the best mode of doing it ; and 
an essential element of success was the possession of absolute authority for 
the time being. It was indispensable that the most exact order and discipline 
should be maintained. To effect this, strict military control would be neces- 
sary ; but civilians could not be expected to submit patiently to the restraints 
of naval discipline, to the confinement on shipboard, and to the sanitary regu- 
lations necessary to preserve health in crowded ships. 

But, further, after the accommodation of the proper officers of the vessels 
there would be but little room left for that of scientific men, who were ac- 
customed to the comforts and conveniences of life on shore, with abundant 
space for their books and instruments ; and beside, they would severely feel 
the disappointment of not being able to go and come at their pleasure, when 
curiosity and their scientific researches might make it desirable, to say 
nothing of the embarrassments they might cause to the commander when 
they did land, by collisions with the people, arising from inadvertence or 
inexperience. 

But paramount as a ground of refusal was the fact that the object of the 
expedition was not scientific, but naval and diplomatic ; to attempt both 
would probably be to succeed in neither. If one, the last named, were 
prosecuted to a favorable result, the door would then be opened for success 
in the other. At any rate the commander thought it would be best to do 
one thing at a time, and that ihe one thing confided to him for performance, 
must take precedence of every thing else. 



100 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

Anotlier matter, of no little delicacy in its adjustment, was likely to 
arise from the presence of scientific gentlemen not subject to the strict 
discipline of the navy. The Commodore's instructions required of him to 
prohibit those under his command from making any communications to the 
newspapers and other public prints touching the movements of the squadron 
or the discipline and internal regulations of the vessels composing it ; and 
even private letters to friends were to avoid these topics. All journals and 
private notes kept by members of the expedition were to be considered as 
belonging to the government until permission should be given from the 
Navy Department to publish them. The object of these regulations was to 
withhold information from other powers which, if communicated, might 
jeopard the success of our mission. It was known that other nations, par- 
ticularly Russia, had ordered ships to Japan as soon as it was known that 
the United States had sent there a squadron. Now, the correspondence of 
scientific gentlemen with their friends and families was a delicate subject 
to be discussed between them and the commander. The latter would 
neither demand to see their letters nor prescribe the topics on which they 
might write. It was, therefore, best to avoid embarrassment by preventing 
the possibility of its occurrence. 

Some professional feeling also influenced the determination of the Com- 
modore. He supposed that it was desirable to cherish a taste for scientific 
observation and study among the officers of the navy, many of whom are 
already not without reputation in science. If an opportunity were afi'orded 
them, and facilities furnished for observation, it would make them students 
of science : and though they might not always, in their early efforts, be able 
to account philosophically for what they saw, yet they could record facts 
which others might explain ; and, as they would never forget the facts or the 
explanations, they would thus be adding to their stores of scientific know- 
ledge. Many of the officers of our army are scientific men; there is no 
reason why our naval officers should not be so also. 

These were the general causes which led the Commodore to the determi- 
nation we have mentioned, without reference to persons. It is proper, how- 
ever, to add, that, with respect to one individual, who manifested extraordi- 
nary desire to be of the expedition, and who has published untruths 
concerning it since its return, (Dr. Von Siebold,) Commodore Perry refused 
on personal grounds. From information received from abroad, he suspected 
him of being a Russian spy, and he knew that he had been banished from 
Japan, where, by a violation of law, he had forfeited his life. 

On the Commodore's return from the Gulf of St. Lawrence, he found 
that the vessels under his command were by no means ready for sea ; and, 
leaving New York, he proceeded in the Mississippi to Annapolis. He was 
not long in making the discovery that, unless he sailed alone and trusted to 
the chances of being joined at uncertain periods by the vessels assigned to 



DEPARTURE FROM TH:%. UNITED STATES. 101 



*' f 



liis command, and then under equipment, he might be detained in the United 
States several months longer. He therefore, with the approbation of the 
Navy Department, determined to proceed on his voyage in the Mississippi 
without further delay ; with the understanding that he should be followed, 
as soon as possible, by the other vessels of the squadron. 

Before leaving Annapolis, President Fillmore, with the Secretary of the 
Navy and many other persons of distinction, both ladies and gentlemen, vis- 
ited the ship and bade farewell to the Commodore and his officers. As the 
Mississippi and Princeton steamed down the Chesapeake bay, the discovery 
was made of the entire unfitness of the last-named vessel to make the con- 
templated voyage. Her machinery failed, and it was on the arrival at 
Norfolk that the Powhatan (which had then just arrived from the West 
Indies) was substituted for the Princeton. 

The Commodore, tired of delays, was not disposed to wait any longer 
for a consort, and, accordingly, on the 2'lth of November, 1852, the ^issis- 
si^^i xdone took her departure from Norfolk, on the mission to Japan, with 
the intention of touching on the outward passage, for supplies of coal and 
refreshments, at Madeira, the Cape of Good Hope, Mauritius, and Singa- 
pore. 



CHAPTER II 



Voyage from the Capes of the Chesapeake to Madeira. — Yiew of the Island. — Funchal. — Hospitality of the 
Inhabitants. — Salubrity of the Climate. — Exports of the Island. — Novel Mode of Conveyance.— Depar- 
ture from Madeira and Arrival at the Canaries.— Early Failure of Northeast Trades. — Extraordinary 
Swell from the Northwest — General Order as to Private Journals and Communications to Public 
Prints. — General Order as to Scientific Investigations by Officers. — The "Harmattan," Conbideration of 
Hypotheses as to its Origin. — Southeast Trades. — Ship steered for St Helena. — Observations on the 
Currents. — Chaplain's Observations on the Zodiacal Lights. — Arrival at St Helena. — Description of the 
Island. — Jamestown. — Longwood. — Tomb of Napoleon. — The Calculating Hospitality of the Inhabitants 

of the Island. — Adventure of Lieutenant . — Fortifications of the Island. — Their Sufficiency 

against Sailing Vessels. — Probable Insufficiency against an Approach from the West by Steam. — De- 
parture from St. Helena. 



N leaving the capes of the Chesa- 
peake, the wind for ten days was 
strong from the southward; it 
then changed to N. N. E., making 
a heavy "wallowing" sea; and 
then, hauling to the westward, blew 
with such violence as to render the 
ship uncomfortable. She, however, 
sustained the high opinion the 
Commodore entertained of her good 
qualities, behaving (as she always 
had done) most admirably, and av- 
eraging more than seven knots dur- 
ing the whole passage. Though 
unusually deep in the water, but eight of her twelve furnaces were put 
in requisition, and her daily consumption of Cumberland coal was about 
twenty- six tons. 

After crossing the Gulf stream a southwestern current of about a knot 
per hour was experienced ; and this continued until the ship was within a 
thousand miles of Madeira, when it ceased entirely. No other current was 
observed during the remainder of the passage to the island. 




,,,lli,'l, 



life '* 



if i) 



i 



i!i:i 



iW'lii I 'I'': .■ 



iii 




FUNCHAL. 103 

The land was made on the evening of December 11th, seventeen days 
after leaving Norfolk. On making the northern extremity of the island, 
" Point Atristow," the wind was blowing a gale from the W. S. W. ; which 
occasioned a heavy " rolling " sea. The ship was, therefore, run along the 
northern end of the island with the view of finding smoother water, the 
more conveniently to bend the cables. 

In coasting the island, several very pretty villages were observed occupying 
sheltered nooks, usually at the bottom of some ravine, and near an indenta- 
tion of the coast, which offered indifferent anchorage to the small vessels 
employed in transporting the produce of the island to the shipping port, 
" Funchal." 

What added to the beauty of the scenery and roused the admiration and 
enthusiasm of the artists of the expedition was, that, as the rainy season had 
just passed, the torrents could be seen from the ship rushing down the sides 
of the mountains and forming in their descent many beautiful cascades. 

Knowing that the wind, for the last few days, must have thrown into the 
bay of Funchal a heavy swell, rendering anchorage there unsafe, it was 
determined to run under the lee of the " Deserters," and there wait a favor- 
able moment for anchoring in the roads. But on rounding the southeastern 
point of the island it was found that the wind had considerably abated, and 
had hauled to the northward of west, making it safe to proceed immediately 
to the anchorage ; and accordingly, just at dark, on the 12th, the ship came 
to anchor in thirty-three fathoms, the castle back of the town just open with 
the Loo rock. 

The vice consul of the United States, Mr. Rayman, with several coal 
agents, was soon alongside, and arrangements were promptly made to send 
on board all the coal and water that might be required, so that the vessel 
would be ready to sail on the next Wednesday night. Accordingly, at day- 
light the next morning, (Monday, the 13th,) lighters containing coal and 
water were seen coming off, and by Wednesday, at four o'clock, p. m. , 
between four and five hundred tons of coal, and ten thousand gallons of 
water, with many other articles, had been received on board. It may here 
be remarked, that the coal agents were very desirous that the vessel should 
be anchored much nearer the town, in about ten fathoms, and in a position 
where she would be sheltered from the westerly winds by the Loo rock; 
but upon an observation of the locality, the Commodore was satisfied that 
in blowing weather it would be difficult even for a steamer to get safely out 
from such an anchorage, and he therefore positively forbade the removal of 
the vessel to the spot indicated. The anchorage anywhere in Funchal bay 
is unsafe in the winter season, and vessels lying in the road, when expecting 
a gale from S.E. around to W.S.W. generally put to sea, and remain out 
until the return of fine weather. In fact, Funchal, which lies on the 
south side of the island, has only an open roadstead, with a very rocky and 



J 04 



EXPEDITION TO JAPAN 



uneven anchorage. The whole island is a mass of basalt. From November 
to February gales prevail from the southeast and southwest, rendering the 
roadstead very dangerous. 

Funchal still retains its character for hospitality, and by no one was this 
virtue more gracefully exercised towards the members of the expedition 
than by Mr. J. H. March, who for more than thirty years has filled the 
office of consul of the United States, and in the enjoyment of his large for- 
tune takes delight in making welcome to his houses, both in town and coun- 
try, such of his countrymen as are deserving of his attentions. 

The town consists of a wide street along the sea shore, containing seve- 
ral good buildings. From this, numerous small streets extend back at right 
angles, for a considerable distance up the slope of the hill. The population 
amounts to some twenty thousand. The commerce of the island is consid- 
erable, and most of it is with England. Its exports have been said to 
amount to the value of £500,000 per annum. Wine is the principal com- 
modity. When the island was first settled by the Portuguese, sugar was 
cultivated to a considerable extent, but this was discontinued after the West 
Indies were brought under culture, and wine became the staple. 

The salubrity of the climate has made Funchal a resort for invalids, and 
hence it is not difficult to find in it agreeable and refined society. The 
greater number of those who visit the island are English, and the known 
love of Englishmen for exercise in the open air has led to the introduction 
of some novel modes of afi"ording to invalids the benefit of locomotion. 




Carriage on Sled. 

As the streets of the city are paved in such manner as to forbid the use 
of wheel carriages, sedan chairs and hammocks were, until very recently, used 
not only for invalids, but by all persons making visits. The inconvenience 
of these vehicles has led to a substitute, which consists of nothing more than 




rUXCHAL CATHEDRAL. 



commodore's view of his mission. 1C5 

tlie ordinary sledge used for transporting casks of wine and other heavy arti- 
cles through the streets, surmounted by a gaily decorated carriage body, and 
drawn by a yoke of oxen. This is now the fashionable conveyance, and in 
such an one did the Commodore, with his flag captain and aid, make all his 
official visits. There are stands in the streets, as for our cabs and carriages, 
where these vehicles may be found with the oxen yoked, and all things pre- 
pared for immediate transportation. 

It must not, however, be supposed that there are no other modes of con- 
veyance ; horseback riding may be seen, and the fair equestrian makes her 
appearance without an attendant cavalier or groom, but with a footman, 
who keeps pace with the easy gait of the horse, and protects him from the 
annoyance of flies and other insects. Asses are common, and are probably 
the best beasts of burden on such roads as the island possesses. 

While the ship was at Madeira, the Commodore, who had reflected much 
and anxiously on the important mission with which he had been entrusted, 
thought it best to bring distinctly before the department the views he enter- 
tained of the steps he ought to undertake, more particularly as so much was 
necessarily confided to his discretion. He accordingly addressed to the 
Secretary of the Navy an official communication, which is here presented, 
not only as affording a record of his matured opinions on the important work 
before him, but also as furuishing the reader with the means of ascertaining, 
as he proceeds in the narrative, how far the Commodore's anticipations were 
fulfilled, and how nearly he was enabled to follow out his original intentions. 

Commodore Perry to the Secretary qfilie Navy. 

United States Steam Frigate Mississippi, 

Madeira, December 14, 1852. 

Sir : Since leaving the United States I have had leisure to reflect moVe 
fully upon the probable result of my visit to Japan, and though there is still 
some doubt in my mind as to the chances of immediate success in bringing 
that strange government to any practicable negotiation, yet I feel confident 
that in the end the great object in view will be effected. 

As a preliminary step, and one of easy accomplishment, one or more 
ports of refuge and supply to our whaling and other ships must at once be 
secured ; and should the Japanese government object to the granting of such 
ports upon the main land, and if they cannot be occupied without resort to 
force and bloodshed, then it will be desirable in the beginning, and indeed, 
necessary, that the squadron should establish places of rendezvous at one 
or two of the islands south of Japan, having a good harbor, and possessing 
facilities for obtaining water and supplies, and seek by kindness and gentle 
treatment to conciliate the inhabitants so as to bring about their friendly 
intercourse. 

The islands called the Lew Chew group are said to be dependencies of 



106 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

Japan, as conquered by that power centuries ago, but their actual sovereignty 
is disputed by the government of China. 

These islands come within the jurisdiction of the prince of Satsuma, 
the most powerful of the princes of the Empire, and the same who caused 
the unarmed American ship Morrison, on a visit of mercy, to be decoyed 
into one of his ports and then fired upon from the batteries hastily erected. 
He exercises his rights more from the influence of the fear of the simple 
islanders than from any power to coerce their obedience ; disarmed, as they 
long have been, from motives of policy, they have no means, even if they 
had the inclination, to rebel against the grinding oppression of their 
rulers. 

Now, it strikes me, that the occupation of the principal ports of those 
islands for the accommodation of our ships of war, and for the safe resort 
of merchant vessels of whatever nation, would be a measure not only justified 
by the strictest rules of moral law, but which is also to be considered, by 
the laws of stern necessity ; and the argument may be further strengthened 
by the certain consequences of the amelioration of the condition of the 
natives, although the vices attendant upon civilization may be entailed upon 
them. 

In my former commands upon the coast of Africa, and in the Grulf of 
Mexico, where it fell to my lot to subjugate many towns and communities, I 
found no difficulty in conciliating the good will and confidence of the con- 
quered people, by administering the unrestricted power I held rather to their 
comfort and protection than to their annoyance ; and when the naval forces 
left, they carried with them the gratitude and good wishes of their former 
enemies ; and so I believe that the people of the islands spoken of, if 
treated with strict justice and gentle kindness, will render confidence for 
confidence, and after a while the Japanese will learn to consider us their 
friends. 

In establishing those ports of refuge it will be desirable to provide the 
means of supply to the vessels that may resort to them, and hence the necessity 
of encouraging the natives in the cultivation of fruits, vegetables, &c. ; and 
to carry out, in part, this object, garden seeds have been provided ; but 
to pursue the purpose still further, I have thought that if a few of the more 
simple agricultural implements of our own country were sent to me for use, 
and for presents, they would contribute most essentially to the end in view ; 
such, for instance, as the common cultivator, the plough and harrow, spades, 
hoes of various kinds, the threshing and winnowing machines, and especially 
those inventions for separating the cotton from its seed, and rice from its 
husks. 

And with reference, also, to the subject of my letter to Mr. Folsom, 
charge at the Hague, a copy of which has been enclosed to the Department 
of State, it would be good policy to counteract the discreditable machina- 



commodore's view of his mission. 107 

tions of the Dutch, by circulating printed publications representing the true 
condition of the various governments of the world, and especially to set 
forth the extraordinary prosperity of the United States under their genial laws. 

To effect this object, I am already provided with works for presentation, 
descriptive of the civil and political condition of the United States, such as 
the census tables, post-office and railroad reports, reports of the Indian and 
Land offices, military and naval registers, also with the magnificent publica- 
tions of the State of New York, &c. 

And I have thought that a small printing press, with type and materials, 
would go far to facilitate our plans, by giving us the means of putting forth 
information calculated to disabuse the Japanese of the misrepresentations 
of the Dutch. 

The government of Japan keeps in employment linguists in all modern 
languages ; and such is their curiosity, that these publications, if admitted 
at all, will soon be translated. 

Having thus, at least in anticipation, established harbors of resort, and 
organized certain rules of equity to govern our intercourse with the natives 
in the payment for labor, supplies, &c., and having depots of provisions and 
coal near at hand, we shall be able to act with more effect in bringing about 
some friendly understanding with the imperial government. At all events, 
steamers, or whatever vessels that may be passing to and from California and 
China, will find safe harbors in their way, and it may reasonably be expected 
that in the course of time the intercourse thus brought about will lead to a 
better understanding of our pacific intentions. 

It may be said that my anticipations are too sanguine. Perhaps they 
are, but I feel a strong confidence of success. Indeed, success may be com- 
manded by our government, and it should be, under whatever circumstances, 
accomplished. The honor of the nation calls for it, and the interest of com- 
merce demands it. When we look at the possessions in the east of our 
great maritime rival, England, and of the constant and rapid increase of 
their fortified ports, we should be admonished of the necessity of prompt 
measures on our part. 

By reference to the map of the world, it will be seen that Great Britain 
is already in possession of the most important points in the East India and 
China seas, and especially with reference to the China seas. 

With Singapore commanding the southwestern, while Hong Kong covers 
the northeastern entrance, and with the island of Labuan on the eastern 
coast of Borneo, an intermediate point, she will have the power of shutting 
up at will and controlling the enormous trade of those seas, amounting, it is 
said, in value to 300,000 tons of shipping, carrying cargoes certainly not 
under £15,000,000 sterling.* 

* See Governor Crawford's opinion, in " The Expedition to Borneo by Her Majesty's 
Ship Dido," chapter 24, pubhshed by Harper Brothers, New York, 1846. 



108 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

Fortunately the Japanese and many other islands of the Pacific are still 
left untouched by this " annexing " government ; and, as some of them lay 
in the route of a commerce which is destined to become of great importance 
to the United States, no time should be lost in adopting active measures to 
secure a sufficient number of ports of refuge. And hence I shall look with 
much anxiety for the arrival of the Powhatan and the other vessels to be 
sent to me. 

I have thus exhibited, in this crude and informal communication, my 
views upon a subject which is exciting extraordinary attention throughout 
the world, and I trust the department will approve the course I propose to 
pursue. 

With great respect, I am, sir, your most obedient servant, 

M. 0. PERRY, 

Commanding East India Squadron. 
Hon. John P. Kennedy, 

Secretary of the Navy, Washington, 

The answer to this communication did not, of course, reach the Commo- 
dore for many months ; but as it preserves the continuity of the transaction 
as well as shows the spirit of the government, and its confidence in the Com- 
modore, it is inserted in the note below.* 

On the evening of Wednesday, December 15, the Mississippi weighed an- 

* J/r. Everett to Commodore Perry. 
-Department of State, Washington, Fehruary 15, 1853. 

Sir : YoTir despatch of the 14th of December has been referred by the Secretary of the 
Navy to this department, and by me submitted to the President. 

The President concurs with you in the opinion that it is highly desirable, probably ne- 
cessary for the safety of the expedition under your command, that you should secure one or 
more ports of refuge of easy access. If you find that these camiot be obtained in the Japa- 
nese islands without resort to force, it will be necessary that you should seek them elsewhere. 
The President agrees with you in thinking that you are most likely to succeed in this object 
in the Lew Chew islands. They are, from their position, well adapted to the purpose ; and 
the friendly and peaceful character of the natives encourages the hope that your visit will 
be welcomed by them. 

In establishing yourself at one or two convenient points in those islands, with the con- 
sent of the natives, you will yourself pursue the most friendly and conciliatory course, and 
enjoin the same conduct on all under your command. Take no supplies from them except by 
fair purchase, for a satisfactory consideration. Forbid, and at all hazards prevent plunder 
and acts cf violence on the part of your men toward these simple and unwarlike people, for 
I such they are described to be. Let them from the first see that your coming among them 
is a benefit, and not an evil to them. Make no use of force, except in the last resort for 
defence, if attacked, and self-preservation. 

The President approves the idea suggested by you of encouraging the natives to turn 
their attention to agriculture, and has given orders to have the implements of husbandry 
mentioned by you sent out by the Vermont. He has also directed a small printing press, 
with type and materials for printing of all kinds, to be sent out by the Vermont. 

The President is gratified to perceive that you are impressed with the importance of the 



AKRIVAL AT THE CANARIES. 109 

chor and proceeded to sea, under steam, shaping her course to pass to the 
westward of Palma, one of the Canaries. This island was made at da3dight 
on the morning of the 17th, and after reaching the lee of Hierro or Ferro, 
the southwesternmost of the group, the immersed floats or paddle boards on 
each side of the vessel were removed, the fires were extinguished, and the ship 
left entirely dependent upon her sails. 

This change was made from an expectation that the ship would soon be 
■ander the impulse of the northeast trade winds. At the time the floats were 
removed there was a moderate breeze from E, S. E., which it was supposed 
would gradually settle into the northeast trades ; but, much to the surprise 
of the officers of the ship, it hauled more to the southward, and eventually 
came from tlie S. S. W. Such was the obscurity of the weather at the Ca- 
naries that Teneriffe was not seen at all, and but an indistinct view was ob- 
tained of Gomera. This was the more remarkable, because, as Baron Hum- 
boldt has remarked, although the peak of Teneriffe is seldom seen at a great 
distance in the warm, dry months of July and August, yet in January and 
February, when the sky is slightly clouded, and immediately before or after 
a heavy rain, it is seen at very extraordinary distances. This arises from the 
fact that when a certain quantity of water is uniformly diffused through the 
atmosphere the transparency of the latter is thereby greatly increased. 

There was a circumstance which the Commodore had observed ever since 
the ship left Norfolk, a month before, and which surprised him not a little. 
He found an extraordinary swell coming from the northwest, and which never 
intermitted for a moment until the ship was fairly within the trades ; and 
even then its influence could be felt in the disturbance of the usually regular 
sea produced by the periodical winds, and by the production of a disagreeable 
cross movement of the waves. It was difficult to account for this swell so 
long continued ; it was quite certain the ship had experienced no violence 
of wind sufficient to produce it in the region which she had traversed, and 
since the 18th the winds had been quite moderate. The conjecture of the 
Commodore was that there must have been in the higher latitudes a succession 
of northwesterly gales, which had prevailed long enough to set in motion an 
ocean wave which was never subdued until it came in contact with the steady, 
though more quiet, tropical swell. 

This swell, too, possibly had an effect in throwing further south than 
usual the northern boundary of the trades. From the time of removing the 

enterprise confided to your direction, the success of which will mainly depend upon your 
prudence and address. It will attract a large share of the attention of the civilized world ; 
and the President feels great confidence that the measures adopted by you will reflect credit 
on your own wisdom and discretion, and do honor to your country. 
I am, sir, respectfully, your obedient servant, 

EDWARD EVERETT. 
Commodore M. C, Perry, 

Commandinrj the United States naval forces in the China seas. 



110 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

floats up to the 20th the wind continued from the southward and westward ; 
it then hauled to the northward and westward, and finally into the northeast ; 
and it was not until about this period, about 8 p. m. of the 20th, in latitude 
25° 44^ north, longitude 20° 23^ west, that the ship could be considered 
fairly to have entered the trades. This is a point unusually far south for 
the northern boundary of these winds at this season, for it is not to be for- 
gotten that the northern and southern boundaries of the zone of the trade 
winds are variable. The southeast has its northern boundary furthest to 
the north during our summer ; the northeast is then weakest. In our winter 
this state of things is exactly reversed. In our autumn the zone of the trades 
reaches its greatest northern declination ; and in our spring it is at its utmost 
southern limit. 

On the 22d of December, the Commodore issued a general order promul- 
gating the directions of the Secretary of the Navy forbidding communications 
to the public prints at home touching the movements of the squadron, and 
prohibiting also such information through the medium of private letters to 
friends. The Secretary also required that private notes and journals kept 
by any members of the expedition should be considered as belonging to the 
government until their publication should be expressly permitted by the Navy 
Department. 

A second general order, issued the next day, was as follows : 

" Entertaining the opinion that the talents and acquirements of the offi- 
cers of the squadron, if properly directed and brought into action, will be 
found equal to a plain and practical examination and elucidation of the vari- 
ous objects pertaining to the arts and sciences that may come under their 
observation during the present cruise, and being aware of the limited accom- 
modations of the vessels under my command, I have invariably objected to 
the employment of persons drawn from civil life to conduct those departments 
more immediately connected with science. 

" Therefore I have to re|is3t and direct, that each officer of the respec- 
tive ships will employ such portions of his time as can be spared from his 
regular duties and proper hours of relaxation, in contributing to the general 
mass of information which it is desirable to collect ; and in order to simplify 
and methodise these researches, a paper is subjoined particularising the vari- 
ous departments in reference to which information is more especially wanted; 
so that each officer may select one or more of those departments most conge- 
nial to his tastes and inclinations. 

" All captains and commanders are required to render every facility 
consistent with the proper duties of their respective vessels to those officers 
who may manifest a zealous co-operation in the pursuits herein specified ; 
and it is to be plainly understood that I do not officially require the officers 
to perform any involuntary duty. I shall exact that only which may come 
within the legitimate sphere of my authority, leaving to the officers them- 



THE "hARMATTAN." Ill 



selves to engage, as far as they may see fit only, in those investigations which, 
in an official point of view, may be considered as on their parts gratuitous. 

" It will always give me the greatest pleasure to bring to notice the 
labors of each and every individual who may contribute to the general 
work." * 

During the 21st, 22d and 23d of December, the wind continued from the 
northward and eastward ; about noon of the 23d it inclined to the south- 
ward of east, hauling around at night, however, more to the north ; and on 
the 24th, when the ship was abreast of Brava and Fogo, it stood at E.N.E. 

The haze, however, was such that nothing more than a glimpse could be 
obtained of Fogo; and the winds are thus particularly referred to above 
because of their possible connexion, at this time, with the haze. They are 
physical facts, and therefore ought to be recorded. This haze is common to 
these latitudes, and is by many supposed to be caused by what is called the 
" Harmattau." This is the name given to a wind which, passing over Africa, 
takes up in its sweep, as is supposed, an impalpable dust, and carries it far 
away to the westward. The Commodore himself had remarked the haze or 
dust, on former cruises, more than five hundred miles west of the Cape de 
Yard islands. When commanding a squadron, in 1844, on the western coast 
of Africa, he had carefully noted several facts connected with this wind, 
certainly the most remarkable on that coast. A thousand incredible stories 
are told of its singular effects. It is said, for instance, that its dry and 
subtle properties will check or cure various diseases, heal up the most invet- 
erate ulcers, destroy cabinet work, break window glass, and stop the motion 
of timepieces. But apart from these strange stories, it must still be said 
that the effects of this wind are extraordinary. In some respects it resem- 
bles the Sirocco, and also the Levanter of the Grecian archipelago. 

It commences about the middle of December, and continues until the 
latter end of March. Like the Sirocco, it has been supposed to take its rise 
in the deserts of Africa ; but, unlike the Sirocco, instead of producing a 
burning and oppressive temperature, it is a chilling wind. Its direction is 
always from the land, and it sometimes increases to a strong breeze ; it does 
not, however, blow steadily during its season, but frequently intermits, 
when land or sea breezes take its place. 

At the Cape de Verds and the Gambia, the " Harmattan " appears to 



* The subjects suggested by the Conmodore, in Ms order, embraced hydrography, 
meteorology, naval architecture in its adaptation to war and commerce, military afifairs, 
geology, geography, terrestrial magnetism, philology and ethnology, artistic matters, cos- 
tumes, &c,, religions, diseases and sauitarj-- laws, agriculture, statistics of supplies, botany, 
entomology, ornithology, zoology, conchology, ichthiology, and the magnetic telegraph : 
and we trust the appendices to this narrative will show that the commander did not mis- 
judge either as to the attainments or zeal of his officers. 



112 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

form a junction with the northeast trades prevailing there at a certain sea- 
son, and to blow with little interruption from January until April. 

The hypothesis of some is, that in passing over the deserts and lands of 
Africa the " Harmattan " takes up an immense quantity of sand and dust, 
sufficient to form a floating mass, producing an atmosphere so hazy as fre- 
quently to obscure the sun, and prevent a sight of the land at the distance 
of five miles only. There is no doubt of the wind, the dust, and the hazy 
atmosphere, and possibly the latter may be occasioned entirely by the dust. 
At the season of the " Harmattan " this peculiar atmosphere may always be 
seen at the Cape de Verd islands, four hundred miles from the continent, and 
is constantly falling in quantities sufficient to cover the sails, rigging, and deck 
of a ship. It is also said to have been met with seven hundred miles further 
westward. 

Kecent investigations, however, would seem to create some doubt as to 
the source whence the dust is derived. It was natural enough, as it was 
found on the coast of Africa, to refer its origin to the nearest known desert 
land ; but the microscope, in the hands of Ehrenberg, would seem to intimate 
the possibility of a more distant origin. This dust, from the Cape de Verds, 
is found, upon examination, to consist of infusoria and organisms, the hab- 
itat of which is not Africa, but South America^ and in the southeast trade 
wind region of that country. It is, therefore, possible that the southeast 
trades may have brought the dust, great as is the distance, from South 
America. But if such be the fact, it must be confessed that there are 
agencies in the philosophy of the winds, producing atmospheric phenomena, 
which are not yet sufficiently understood by us to justify positive assertion. 
A greater accumulation of facts is wanted. That stated by Ehrenberg is 
very important, and quite sufficient to create doubt of the correctness of the 
ordinary hypothesis. 

Until the 30th of December the northeast trades continued, the ship 
having then reached 6° 8^ north latitude, and 16° 34/ west longitude, when, 
in a squall from the eastward the wind changed to the southward, and so con- 
tinued, though somewhat variable, until January 2, 1853, in latitude 1° 44^ 
north, and longitude 11° 37'' west, when the southeast trade was met, bringing 
with it a swell, which retarded the ship's progress considerably. Before this, 
however, on the 29th of December, as the northeast trades had become light 
and unsteady, with occasional calms, the floats were replaced on the wheels, 
and the ship was put under steam, using the two after boilers only. With 
light winds and a smooth sea, these proved sufficient to make a progress of 
seven knots an hour ; but when the southeast trades fairly set in, accompanied 
as they were by a head sea, the speed was diminished to four and a half or 
five knots. The use of two additional boilers, however, soon brought the 
ship up to seven, at a daily consumption of twenty-six tons of coal. 

It had been the purpose of the Commodore, on leaving Madeira, to 



SURFACE AND SUBMARINE. 113 

make tte entire run to the Cape of Good Hope without stopping ; as it was 
supposed that with a proper use of the sails, and the supply of coal on board, 
this might readily be done; but the northeast trades having ceased at a 
point much further north than usual at this season, and the southeast winds 
having also set in at a correspondingly early period, he ordered the ship so 
to be steered that she might touch at St. Helena, should it be deemed 
desirable so to do, as a measure of prudence, to procure an additional sup- 
ply of coal. 

In the observations made upon the currents since leaving Norfolk, the 
Commodore was of opinion that such as he encountered were caused merely 
by the winds acting on the surface of the ocean; and as a general rule, 
though not perhaps universally true, it may be remarked that the current 
will be found setting from the land in the direction of the prevailing winds ; 
at least such has been the opinion formed from the long observation and 
experience at sea of the Commodore. There may be, however, and proba- 
bly are, currents other than those partial ones created on the surface by the 
winds. These are caused by a difference in the specific gravity of the sea 
water at different places and depths. This difference disturbs the equili- 
brium, and the effort of the water to regain it must cause a current. 

There is consequently, on and under the surface a system of currents 
and counter currents constantly operating in a greater or less degree. They 
are far from being yet perfectly known and understood, but the principle on 
which they must exist is the law of hydrostatics, that when two fluids on 
the same level differ in specific gravity, the one will not balance the other, 
both must move ; that motion is a current. 

Various interesting experiments have been made on the subject of sub- 
marine currents, counter to those on the surface, and their existence would 
seem to be conclusively proved ; their direction, however, cannot always be 
ascertained. Practical seamen have also endeavored to find out the depth 
of surface currents ; this depth is not always the same, but there is, if not 
impossibility, yet great difficulty, at times, in ascertaining the depth with 
accuracy. 

On Monday, January 3, 1853, the ship crossed the equator in longi- 
tude 11° 01' west, and from that time up to the 7th had a moderately fresh 
breeze directly ahead. The effect of this wind, instead of affording refresh- 
ment by the motion of the vessel meeting it, (her course was due south,) was 
to render the officers' apartments, especially the cabin, and, indeed, all the 
after part of the ship, particularly uncomfortable, as the wind brought much 
of the heat and smoke directly aft. The wind^ however, did not retard the 
progress of the vessel, though it was directly ahead ; for it must be remem- 
bered that, in a steamer, motion is not so much retarded by adverse winds as 
by the head sea which the wind produces. Indeed, a steamer will some- 
times go faster against a moderately fresh breeze, provided she be on a 
8 



114 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

smooth sea, for tlie wind drawing from forward increases the draught of the 
furnaces. 

After crossing the equator a current of about one and a half mile per 
hour was observed, setting in the direction of the wind, north 30° west. 

The chaplain, the Rev. Mr. Jones, employed himself with great care 
and assiduity, while passing through the equatorial latitudes, in observing 
and noting the zodiacal lights. They were very brilliant, and so remarkable 
that they proved an object of great interest to all on board. He preserved 
with great care the result of all his observations, in the hope of their future 
usefulness to the cause of science. 

On the 10th of January, at noon, the ship arrived at Jamestown, island 
of St. Helena. 

Here, as a measure rather of prudence than necessity, she took on board 
an additional supply of coal. Water and fresh provisions for the crew were 
also procured. 

St. Helena was discovered in 1502 by the Portuguese. It was afterward 
taken possession of by the Dutch, who, in 1651, abandoned it for the Cape of 
Good Hope. The English East India Company then took possession of it, 
and it became a stopping place for their ships between England and India. 
The Dutch took it from the company in 1772, but it again fell into their 
hands in the following year. From that time up to 1833 it remained in 
the company's possession, when it was transferred to the crown. The base 
of the island is basalt, and lava and scoria are scattered about its surface. 
It is evidently volcanic, and seen from a distance it appears like a pile of 
barren rocks rising from the ocean in the form of a pyramid. 

On a nearer approach the island is seen to be encompassed by rugged 
'and almost perpendicular cliffs from six to twelve hundred feet high. These 
are broken in several places by chasms which open to the sea shore, and form 
narrow valleys winding up to the table land above. In the centre of the 
island is an elevation known as Diana's peak, 2,693 feet above the sea level. 
A calcareous ridge runs across the island from east to west, and divides it 
into two unequal parts, the larger and better of which is on the north side, 
containing, among other spots of interest, Jamestown, Longwood, the Briars 
and Plantation house, the governor's summer-residence. The whole cir- 
cumference of the island is about twenty-eight miles. At the termination 
of James' valley on the sea stands Jamestown, the only town and port of 
the island, with a population of about twenty-five hundred. It is built on 
both sides of a well-paved street which runs ne^.rly a mile up the valley. A 
strong water battery commands the bay. Ascending James' valley, the 
traveller arrives on the plain or table land of Longwood, which consists of 
fifteen hundred acres of good land, elevated about 2,000 feet above the sea, 
and slopes gently toward the southeast. Though the island looks so barren 
from the sea, yet the interior is covered with a rich verdure, and is watered 



ST. HELENA. 115 

by numerous springs which irrigate a very fertile soil. The fruits and 
flowers of Europe and Asia are successfully cultivated, while horned cattle, 
sheep, and goats thrive on the rich pastures. Barley, oats, Indian corn, 
potatoes, and most of the common vegetables are easily produced. Fresh 
beef, mutton and poultry may at all times be procured, and fish are abun- 
dant. 

The climate is one of the most salubrious under the tropics. At Plan- 
tation house the thermometer ranges from 61° to 73° within doors, and 
sometimes, between June and September, (the winter season,) falls to 52° in 
the open air. At Longwood the thermometer is generally a little lower, 
and at Jamestown a little higher, than it is at Plantation house. The sum- 
mer rains fall in January or February, and the winter rains in July or 
August. 

The East India Company, while in possession of the island, constructed 
excellent roads, which are kept in admirable order by the present govern- 
ment; they are inclined planes, adapted as well for wheel carriages and 
artillery as for horses and foot passengers ; and as one rides through the coun- 
try the appearance of the cultivated fields, kept constantly green by the 
rains which fall in light showers from the clouds, driven over the island by 
the southeast trades, forms a striking and agreeable contrast to the barren 
cliff's which shelter the valleys. During the winter months, indeed, the rains 
are commonly very copious, and sometimes fall in such torrents as seriously 
to injure the cultivated grounds, and make for a time the roads impassable. 

It will thus be seen that, so far as physical comfort is involved, St. 
Helena is not the worst of prisons ; and if it provoked indignant remon- 
strance from the illustrious captive who laid his bones there, his complaints 
were prompted not so much by the aspects of nature around, which never 
insulted him, as by the petty indignities offered him by little minds, and the 
irksomeness of restraint to a chafed spirit, which, in its isolation, felt deeply the 
contrast between its now enforced solitude and its former mingling and 
ruling in the crowd of men, wielding as if by magic the destinies of Europe. 
To him a hemisphere for his theatre and nations for his playthings had 
become in some sort a necessity. His own spirit forged his heaviest chains 
on St. Helena. 

But it was the memory of that captive which gave to the officers of the 
ship the chief interest of the island, and every one accordingly made it his 
first object to visit Longwood and the spot where the ashes of Napoleon had 
once rested. 

In viewing the miserable building where, for more than five years, this 
extraordinary man resided, and where he breathed his last, it is difficult to 
suppress a deep feeling of the instability of earthly glory. The palaces of 
France and the farm house of Longwood, Napoleon in his splendor and 
Napoleon on his death bed, are suggestive of reflections which will tempt the 



116 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

thoughtful silently to moralize. But, humble as was this residence of the 
dethroned Emperor, it had been the abode of fallen greatness, and that 
should have protected it from desecration. Longwood has been permitted to 
fall into decay, and the apartments which the Emperor once occupied are 
now but a common stable. The property has been rented by the crown to a 
farmer of the island, and he seems to have been permitted to make what use 
he pleased of the tenements upon it. 

Without here questioning the necessity, as a measure of state policy, of 
confining the great and ambitious disturber of the peace of Europe in a 
place whence escape was impossible, admitting the force of all the arguments 
by which the act at the time was justified to the world, yet one cannot look 
on Longwood without feeling that there was more of annoyance and insult 
in executing the purposes of the English government than was necessary, or 
than the government probably intended. At this day there are many Eng- 
lishmen who think that England was singularly unfortunate in the choice 
of her jailors. 

A view of the grounds forcibly suggests this thought. Surrounded as 
the prescribed limits were by successive lines of sentinels, with a regiment 
encamped within musket shot of the dwelling, with every avenue to it close- 
ly guarded by pickets of soldiers, and with the ^^liffs which bound the ground 
toward the sea perfectly inaccessible, it is impossible not to see at a glance, 
that there was not the remotest chance of escape. Might there not then 
have been some relaxation of minute and indelicate personal supervision, at 
least in the day time, when the island was surrounded by British cruisers, 
and the numerous forts fully garrisoned ? Was it necessary for security to 
make the captive fed incessantly that he was watched ? 

The British ministry had enjoined the safe custody of the prisoner ; un- 
fortunately they left it to the jailors to settle all the details of the mode of 
keeping him. 

The tomb in which Napoleon was placed, has lost some of its interest 
from the removal of his body to France. He died on the 1st of May, 1821. 
On the 4th of October, 1840, his remains were embarked on the French 
frigate Belle Poule, which had been sent under the command of the Prince 
de Joinville, for the purpose of transporting them to France. 

The inhabitants of St. Helena seem to be industrious, but the general 
opinito of the officers of the ship, founded on their experience, was, that in 
their rambles over the world, they had never met with more polite and un- 
scrupulous extortioners. It is said to be the practice of householders to 
entertain unsuspecting strangers with great seeming kindness, and then to 
mulct them most unmercifully for the supposed hospitality. This may be 
slander, but an incident occurred while the ship was at Jamestown, which 
leaves no doubt that profiered favors are sometimes done with the expecta- 
tion of receiving for them — a " consideration." One of the lieutenants of 



JAMESTOWN, ST. HELENA. 117 

the ship was the victim of excessive civility. Contemplating a visit to 
Longwood, he had engaged a horse at the livery stable, which, on landing, 
he found saddled and waiting for him according to appointment. He was 
about mounting, when a citizen of Jamestown, whom he had casually met 
the day before, stepped up and told him that he had a horse, much superior 
to that he was about to mount, which was altogether at his service, and that 
he would send for it. Consequently the hired horse was dismissed, with a 
compensation to the disappointed attendant, and that of the polite friend 
was accepted, unfortunately, however, proving to be inferior to the one dis- 
missed. However, he was used for a few hours, and returned with a douceur 
to the servant who received him. 

The same evening the owner of the horse visited the ship, when the 
lieutenant was profuse of civility and thanks, and after entertaining him, 
pressed upon him the acceptance of some little presents, quite equal in value 
to the hire of the horse. These gifts were received in such manner as in- 
duced the officer to think there was still something more wanting, when he 
said, " Will you allow me to pay for the use of your horse ? " and was 
answered : " Well, I am glad you were pleased with the animal, and you 
need only pay me the usual charge of three dollars." It was immediately 
handed to him, when he coolly offered his services at any future time, and 
said, with a peculiarly knowing look : " If, when you again visit the island, 
you will place yourself under my guidance, I will put you through all 
charges at half price." Then politely wishing a good voyage to all on 
board, he passed into the boat, with the neck of a wine bottle protruding 
from one pocket, and a liberal supply of Havanas filling the other, the offer- 
ings of his grateful friend, the lieutenant. 

At the time of Bonaparte's residence, the island was strongly fortified 
and fully garrisoned, and indeed was deemed impregnable. But this was 
before the introduction of armed steamers into the navies of the world. 
The island is strongly fortified on the north side, while the south, exposed to 
the whole strength of the trade winds, is on that account almost inaccessible. 
But the batteries were construi-tod to prevent the approach of sailing vessels, 
and this they might probably accomplish, as they are on the high cliffs com- 
manding the only ways by which sailing vessels can approach. 

Sailing vessels approaching the Jamestown anchorage are obliged, by 
reason of the lee currents, to pass to the eastward of the island, and haul 
close around Sugar-loaf Point ; and as soon as they luff under the lee of this 
they become partially becalmed, and are at once exposed to the guns of a 
very heavy battery, called " Prince Rupert's Line ; " and from thence all 
the way to the anchorage is a succession of forts, well provided with heavy 
artillery. On the westward^ the fortifications are less strong, because, as 
the current is constantly setting in that direction, it is exceedingly difficult, 
and at times impossible, for a sailing vessel to beat up to the town ; henc« 



118 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

there are but two small batteries on that side, which it would not be difficult 
to silence. But it is easy to see how, with the aid of steam, a moderate 
land and naval force might now attack the island with strong probabilities 
of success. But the approach should be from the west. Just under the 
lee of " West Point," the western extremity jf the island, the water is 
always smooth, and by the aid of steam, the forces might all be concen- 
trated there. 

A close line of battle ahead might be formed, securing the armed sailing 
vessels as closely as possible to the steamers, the armed ships in tow, and the 
troop ships lashed to the port quarters of the steamers. The land troops 
might be formed into two divisions, and supplied with light artillery, for 
forcing the gates of the town, and for covering the advance of the attacking 
columns up the steep roads which lead into the country and to the rear of the 
batteries on the cliffs. The boats should be lowered and secured to the port 
sides of the troop ships, ready for receiving and landing the soldiers, the two 
divisions of which are destined for different points. 

These arrangements having been made, and the ships cleared for action, 
with springs from both quarters, so as to spring to starboard or port, as 
might be necessary, the whole flotilla might be moved close to "West Point, 
and thence trace the shore along at the distance of about a quarter of a mile, 
avoiding the shoal called " Long Ledge" on the charts, and keeping as close 
as possible under " Ladder Hill," on which there is a heavy battery, until it 
opened the town and anchored with springs in line of battle, and extending 
along the whole front of the road. On giving the starboard broadside, the 
ships might spring to port or starboard, as winds or currents made necessary, 
remembering, however, that vessels do not always swing to the wind in this 
road. 

Meantime one division of the troops might keep to the eastward, and 
land at the quay, and thence marching along the causeway, force the gates 
with their artillery ; while the other, avoiding the line of fire of the ships, 
might pass to the westward of it, and tracing the shore under " Ladder 
Hill," land at the west flank of the water battery which covers the tovni 
front. The town once gained, the troops might at once secure the summits 
of the roads leading into the country, as guns temporarily mounted on the 
adjoining hills would effectually command the town and harbor. 

The only real obstacle to a force thus approaching from the west^ by 
steam, would be the strong water battery commanding the whole extent of 
the little bay which forms the harbor. This, of course, would have to be 
silenced before there would be any chance of capturing the place; but, 
then, it must be remembered that the whole attacking force could be 
concentrated on this spot, if it approached from the west by steam. In 
such an approach, it could keep close to the shore, which is bold; and 
such is the elevated position of the principal forts, that their guns could 



DEPARTURE FROM JAMESTOWN 



119 



not be sufficiently depressed to bear upon steamers coming from the west- 
ward. 

These remarks were made by the Commodore, as illustrating the great 
changes wrought by the introduction of steam into naval warfare. When 
the island was fortified, engineering skill accomplished all that was required 
in the existing condition of things. To a force approaching by sailing 
vessels, it probably would now prove impregnable, for wind and tide were 
valuable auxiliaries, which were taken into account in planning the works ; 
but a new motive power makes its appearance, which is quite regardless of 
these natural auxiliaries, and new systems of defence are at once made 
necessary. This is but one of the changes wrought by this mighty agent, 
which seems destined to do so much in revolutionizing the condition of the 
world. 

On Tuesday, January 11th, at 6 p. m. , the Mississippi weighed anchor 
and took her departure from Jamestown. 




The Briers of St Helena, 



CHAPTER III. 



Passage to the Cape.— Fuel for steamers. — Table Kock and Cape Town. — Description of Cape Town.— 
Climate.— Annoyance from dust— Violence of winds and difiaculty of holding to anchorage. — Supplies 
at the Cape. — Caflfre war and its eflfects.- Mode of transporting produce on land.— Vineyards of Con- 
stantia.— Effects of emancipation of slaves on agricultural labor. — Mode of cultivating the vine.— 
Population of Cape Colony.— Bushmen.— The Caffres.— Physical characteristics.— Fingoes.— Military 
organization of Caffres.— Condition of the emancipated slaves. — Departure from Table Bay.— Passage 
to, and arrival at, Mauritius.— Harbor of Port Louis.— Dangers of the harbor.- Skill of port officers in 
mooring vessels. 



ETER leaving St. Helena the 
ship was put on her course for 
the Cape of Good Hope. Pru- 
dential considerations alone in- 
duced the Commodore to touch 
at St. Helena. His opinion was 
that the best and most expeditious 
route for a steamer, going from 
Madeira to the Cape, (provided 
she can carry a sufficiency of coal,) 
is to be found by steering from 
the Cape de Verd islands direct 
toward Cape Palmas on the coast 
of Africa, and thence tracing the 
shore down to Table Bay. 
On leaving Jamestown the ship encountered the trade, deviating very 
little from the southeast, and blowing alternately moderate and fresh. It 
was observable, however, that it was always stronger at night than in the 
day time, and brought with it a short head sea, which greatly retarded the 
progress of the vessel. It would have been easy to increase the steam 
power : but experience had shown that about twenty-six tons of coal per 
diem enabled the ship to accomplish the greatest distance with the most 
economical expenditure ; and considering the extreme difficulty of procuring 
fuel in that region, its enormous cost, and the labor and delay incident to its 




FROM ST. HELENA TO THE CAPE. 121 

shipment, tlie Commodore deemed it most expedient rather to protract the 
passage than allow extravagance in the use of an article so essential to the 
movements of the vessel. A current of one and a quarter knots was found 
setting in the direction of the wind, and this, as a retarding cause, was to be 
added to the force of the trade. 

As to the possibility of obtaining a supply of fuel in this part of the 
world, it may be remarked that at St. Paul de Loango the English maintain 
a depot of coal for the accommodation of the African steam cruisers, and this 
would be a convenient point to which to send a coal vessel from the United 
States. Within a few years a depot of coal has been established by an 
English company at Port Grand, Island of St. Vincent, of the Cape de 
Verde group, and it is said that a reasonable supply can always be obtained 
there by transient steamers. 

Steamers from the United States might proceed direct to St. Vincent's, 
provided there be certainty of obtaining coal at that place, and thence pro- 
ceed to the Cape by Cape Palmas, via Loango ; but it is much better that 
cargoes of coal should be sent ahead of steamers leaving the United States, 
as the only security for a certain supply. 

As to the route from England, that which is prescribed for her mail 
steamers bound round the Cape of Good Hope, is to touch at St. Vincent, 
and thence proceed to the Cape, via Ascension Island, replenishing their 
coal at all their stopping places. In pursuing this route, (which they are 
compelled to do to leave a mail at Ascension for the African squadron,) they 
are obliged to contend with the entire range of the southeast trades, which 
are directly ahead, blowing most of the time quite strongly, and always 
producing a lee current of from one to one and a quarter knots. By taking 
the route along the African coast a steamer has the advantage of the sea and 
land breezes, and the favorable current usually setting to the south. 

On the 24th of January, at nine in the morning, the ship made the land 
in the vicinity of Saldanha Bay, and at two p. m. Table Mountain was in 
sight. After passing outside of Dassen Island, and through the channel 
between the main land and Robben's Island, at half past 8 p. m. the ship 
came to anchor in Table Bay in seven fathoms, and the following day moved 
further in toward the town. 

This port is easy of access either by night or day, if the two lights can 
be distinctly seen, so that the distance from Green Point can be accurately 
estimated. This is important, as by bordering upon that point too closely 
there is danger of a ledge of rocks near the Cape shore, and by keeping too 
far to the northward, the Whale Rock, at the southern end of Robben's 
Island, may bring a vessel up. 

The Cape of Good Hope was first discovered by Bartholomew Diaz, a 
Portuguese, in 1493. During an exploration of the Atlantic coast of Africa, 
this navigator was driven out to sea by a storm, and the first land he made, 



122 EXPEDITION TO JAPAR. 

after the subsidence of the gale, was Algoa Bay; lie having thus doubled 
the Cape without his knowledge. Diaz gave the name of Cabo Tormentoso 
(the Cape of Storms) to the Cape, which was afterwards changed to that of 
Good Hope by the King of Portugal, as he rightly thought the discovery 
auspicious of a favorable result to the great prospect entertained by the 
Portuguese navigators of reaching India. In 1497, Yasco de Gama, another 
Portuguese navigator, doubled the Cape on his voyage to the Indian 
seas. 

The Cape of Good Hope forms the southern extremity of a narrow 
peninsula about thirty miles in length, with the Atlantic ocean on the west. 
False Bay on the east, and Table Bay on the north. Cape Town is situated 
on Table Bay, and was originally founded by the Dutch in 1650, but fell 
into the hands of the English in 1795 ; and, it having been restored to its 
original possessors after the peace of Amiens, was finally retaken by the 
British in 1806, in whose possession it now remains. 

The town is well built with substantial houses of stone and brick, and 
wide, regular streets. The general aspect of the place, with its well con- 
structed public buildings and private residences, and its park in the neigh- 
borhood of the government house, shaded by oaks of magnificent growth, is 
exceedingly agreeable. 

The heat, however, in consequence of the position of the town, which is 
faced by the noonday sun and walled in behind by naked mountains, is ex- 
cessive. This, added to the dust, caused those who went on shore to keep 
much within doors, so that Cape Town was found by the officers of the ex- 
pedition but a dull and stupid place. The streets are unpaved, and conse- 
quently, when the southeast gales, which prevail in midsummer, blow, the 
dust is raised in clouds and deposited in drifts of sand along the sidewalks 
several inches in depth, which keeps the street sweepers in constant occupa- 
tion, who may be seen continually at work collecting the dirt in heaps, to be 
carried away by the dirt carts. So general is the experience of this nuisance 
from the dust, that the male, as well as the female inhabitants, of all classes, 
are in the practice of wearing veils attached to their hats. The northeastern 
winds, which prove in raising the dust of such discomfort to the residents of 
Cape Town, prevail during midsummer, and their approach is. always indi- 
cated by the appearance of a dense white cloud, which settles upon the 
summit of Table Mountain, therefore called the Table Cloth, and remains 
there until the gale subsides. These winds blow with great violence, sweep- 
ing along the land east of Table Mountain. If it were not for the perfect 
smoothness of the water in Table Bay, vessels would not be able to hold to 
their anchors during these southeasterly gales, of which two were experienced 
in the course of seven days, while the Mississippi was lying at Cape Town. 
Such is the severity of these winds that all business in the harbor is sus- 
pended during their height. 



CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 123 

The town seemed to be in a highly prosperous condition, business of 
every kind was flourishing, and there was a general appearance of affluence 
among the government officials, and the high rents, among other indications, 
show the prosperous condition of trade. Handsome equipages are constantly 
seen in the streets, and the prosperity is so universal, that even the lowest 
classes are hardly known to suffer from want. The Cape of Good Hope is of 
great commercial im-portance to Great Britain as a convenient rendezvous for 
her cruisers stationed in the neighborhood, and as a stopping place for vessels 
bound to and from the Indian Ocean. Excellent water, fresh provisions, 
fruit and other necessaries can be obtained in any quantity and at reasonable 
prices. "Wood is scarce, but almost every description of article usually 
needed by vessels may be procured from the numerous well-stocked stores 
and warehouses at Cape Town. Live stock can be readily obtained, bullocks 
at £6 per head, and sheep at 15 shillings. The Mississippi was supplied 
with twelve of the former and eighteen of the latter at these prices. 

Since the abolition of slavery in the British colonies the agricultural 
interests of the Cape have suffered, and although the commerce of some few 
of the colonial ports continues thriving, as, for example, that of Cape Town, 
the interior of the country has declined in prosperity, there being at present 
but few examples of prosperous farming, in consequence of a want of laborers. 
The agricultural condition of the country has also suffered from the effects 
of the war carried on between the British colonists and the Caffres, which, 
although it has enriched the merchants and tradesmen by the large expendi- 
ture of public money, has impoverished the farmers, by depriving them of 
the necessary laborers, and by unsettling the tranquillity of the country. 
The consequence has been that many of the farms have been allowed to run 
to waste, and though the soil is capable of producing Indian corn, wheat, 
barley, oats, and several other descriptions of grain, such has been the un- 
favorable influence of the cause alluded to, that the home consumption of 
these products is not fully provided for. There are, however, some articles 
produced for exportation, among which may be enumerated wine, hides, 
tallow and wool. The farming is chiefly of a grazing character, and vast 
herds of cattle, sheep, horses and mules are raised. At Cape Town horses 
can be obtained at a price varying from thirty to one hundred and fifty dol- 
lars, and mules from thirty to seventy-five dollars. The cattle, which are 
indigenous to the country, somewhat resemble the buffalo in appearance, and 
the sheep are of the broad-tailed species, which are highly esteemed for the 
excellence of their meat. The Jarge teams of oxen passing to and from the 
city are characteristic objects at Cape Town. These teams are composed 
often of seven, eight, or even nine yoke, and are guided by two teamsters, 
one seated in front of a wagon, not unlike the wagons generally in use in 
Pennsylvania, where he urges the animals along by his voice and a long lash, 
while the other precedes the team, holding a halter fastened to the horns of 



124 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

the two leaders, with which he guides them. The arrangement of the team 
for an excursion of greater length is somewhat different, as then horsemen 
accompany it. The wagon, however, is the same. The ox of the Cape is a 
serviceable animal, which has a good deal of the general aspect of the buffalo, 
with long horns, a compact body and tapering rump. 

The Commodore, accompanied by some of his officers, took occasion to 
visit one of the celebrated vineyards of Constantia, having provided himself 
with a barouche drawn by four beautiful stallions, driven four-in-hand by a 
negro boy, who evinced much skill in handling the reins. The drive was 
through a picturesque country, with pretty villas scattered about, and 
approached by beautiful avenues formed of the oak and the fir, which trees 
are raised from the seed, and generally cultivated in the colony, not only 
for ornamental purposes, but for fuel. Substantial hedges were also 
observed, formed of the young oak, of only three years' growth from the 
acorn. The vineyard visited was of limited extent, and the culture of a 
character that somewhat disappointed the expectations of the visitors. 

The proprietor accounted for the inferior condition of his Vineyard on 
the score of being unable to provide himself with the necessary supply of 
laborers, and remarked that he should be obliged to abandon the cultivation 
of the grape altogether had he not supplied himself with an American culti- 
vator, which he had recently imported from the United States, and which 
simple plough, as he stated, drawn by a single horse, actually accomplished 
the labor of fifty men, according to the usual mode of working and culti- 
vating the vine with a hoe. The grape is cultivated at Constantia, as in 
Sicily, by trimming the vine close to the ground, and not permitting it to 
grow higher than a gooseberry bush. The richness of the wine is depend- 
ent upon the condition of the grape when it goes to the press. Although the 
grape begins to ripen in the early part of February, it is not gathered until 
the middle of March, when the fruit has assumed almost the appearance of 
the dried raisin, in which condition it is pressed. The prices of these Con- 
stantia wines vary from two to six dollars a gallon, according to their 
quality. 

The census of 1848 gives 200,546 as the population of Cape Colony. 
Of these 76,827 whites, and 101,176 colored inhabitants, make up the 
whole number of inhabitants of the various parts of the colony, with the 
exception of Cape Town, which contains a population of 22,543. There 
are but few of the aboriginal Hottentots of pure race to be found, as their 
blood has been intermingled with that of the Dutch, the Negro, or the 
Malay. The first European discoverer of the southern promontory of 
Africa found it tolerably well peopled, and the natives, in some respects, in 
better condition than many of the more northern tribes. They were in pos- 
session of herds of cattle and sheep, and led a pastoral life. They were a 
comparatively happy people, divided into tribes under a patriarchal gov 




JliliRiliin, 



^mi 








^i O 



'^^%l^-/4/^^Vil>#^^ 



HOTTENTOTS — CAFFRES — FINGOES. 125 

ernment, and wandered about with their flocks and herds, taking with them 
their moveable huts, constructed of boughs and poles, which were conveyed 
from pasture to pasture on the backs of oxen. Their tribes, however, have 
been mostly exterminated by the cruelty of the Europeans, although a 
wretched remnant have survived, and live as miserable outcasts in the fast- 
nesses of the desert and the forest, and are known as Bushmen. They are 
still savage in character, and disgusting in their persons and habits, having 
received but little benefit from the civilization of their white conquerors, 
who have always pursued them with a cruel wantonness, " though we, as Amer- 
icans," remarks Commodore Perry, " have no right to rail at other nations 
for the wrong they have inflicted upon the aborigines of countries seized 
upon by them, for, though hardly equal to the English in the disgusting 
hypocrisy with which they excuse their acts, we are not far behind them in 
the frauds and cruelties committed upon our native tribes." 

The warlike Caff"res still retain their characteristic wildness, and pursue 
their predatory life. They are in many respects inferior to the ordinary 
African, and have some of the peculiarities of the Egyptian races. They 
are of greater height and strength than the inferior negro ; their color is 
browner, and though their hair is black and woolly, they have fuller beards. 
Their noses are more prominent, but they have the thick negro lip, and with 
the prominent cheek bone of the Hottentots they possess the high European 
forehead. The Fingoes, though traced in origin to some scattered tribes of 
the Caffres, difi'er from them in some degree, and although spirited and 
brave in battle, are of a less savage nature, and have the character of being 
a comparatively good-natured people. The Fingoes are pastoral, like the 
Caff'res, but more given to the culture of the land, in which the men engage 
as well as the women, although this kind of labor is confined among the 
Caff'res to the females alone. On the return of the Commodore from Con- 
stantia, he stopped to pay a visit to a captive chief and his wife, whom the 
fortune of war had thrown into the hands of the Europeans. The chief 
was confined in a sort of country jail, at no great distance from the town. 
The keeper of the prison very civilly allowed free conmiunication with the 
prince, a remarkably fine-looking negro, about twenty-five years of age, who 
had been accompanied to imprisonment by his favorite wife and confidential 
lieutenant, who also had a similar companion to cheer his captivity. These 
women were counterparts of the men in good looks. Subsequently, Mr. 
Brown, one of the artists of the expedition, visited the prison, and secured 
excellent likenesses of the prince and his wife. 

The war carried on by the English with the Hottentots and Caffres, which 
has continued so long costing an immense amount of blood and treasure, is 
still prolonged by the obstinacy of the blacks. The whole frontier has been 
already devastated, and although there is some hope of bringing about a 
peace, no one believes that any treaty that may be made will be respected 



126 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

longer by the negroes than may suit their convenience. In the last battle, 
at the date of the visit of the Mississippi, in which the English force, headed 
by Greneral Cathcart himself, was victorious, it is said that the Caffre chief 
brought into action six thousand foot and two thousand horse. These num- 
bers are probably exaggerated, but it is well known that the blacks have ac- 
quired a tolerable organization, and that they are well supplied with arms 
and ammunition. They have hitherto had an abundance of provision, ob- 
tained from their own herds or from those stolen from the whites, but report 
says that, owing to the carelessness and waste always attendant upon the 
military movements of savages, the supply of food is running short with them. 
The English declare that the Caffres have been instructed in the art of war 
by numerous deserters from the British Army and by a French Missionary 
settled among them, who passed his early life in the army. Allusion has 
already been made to the disastrous effects of the war upon the agricultural 
and other resources of the country. 

The principal white inhabitants of Cape Town are the government offi- 
cials, army officers, and merchants and tradesmen. The laboring class is com- 
posed of the mixed races, the Malays, Coolies, and the negroes. The eman- 
cipated negroes and their descendants are very much, in character and condi- 
tion, like the free blacks in the United States, though by no means as intel- 
ligent and good looking. They are perfectly independent of all restraint, so 
long as they do not violate the laws. They work when it suits them, and at 
their own prices, and break off from their labor if spoken to in a manner 
which they deem offensive. Their ordinary charge for labor is $1 25 for a 
day of ten hours. 

The Mississippi having taken on board from the ship Faneuil Hall a sup- 
ply of coal, and a good supply of bullocks and sheep, and having filled the 
water tanks, left Table Bay at eleven o'clock, a. m., on the 3d February. On 
getting fairly out of the harbor, the wind was found to be blowing strong 
from the westward, with a heavy swell setting in from that quarter. In 
seven hours after leaving Table Bay the steamer was off the pitch of the 
Cape, whence, leaving Cape Hanglip full in sight, her course was directed 
southeast in order to reach the parallel of thirty-seven degrees of latitude, to 
avoid the southeast gales which prevail near the Cape, and cause a strong cur- 
rent to the northward and westward, and to meet the variables which are 
found south of the border of the southeast trades. 

For the first three days after leaving the Cape, the wind blew from the 
northwest to the southwest until the steamer reached the latitude of 36° 16^ 
S., and the longitude of 23° 40^ E., when it changed to the northward 
and eastward, rather north, and so remained to the latitude of 35° 06^, 
and longitude 44° 03^. At this latter point the wind gradually hauled to 
the southward, allowing the course of the ship to be inclined more to the 
northward, until the southeast trades were met. The Commodore, however, 



,>#\i\'\V\ 




' ' '' I'l' ,',;'^,;l"''.W,i\t.uVM^^^^ 




ROUTE FROM THE CAPE TO MAURITIUS. 127 

fearing that the wind might hack again to the eastward, was careful not to 
make too much northing, lest he might fall to the leeward of Mauritius, thus 
losing the benefit of a fair wind, which not only increases the rate of going 
of a steamer, as of a sailing vessel, but also saves the fuel of the former. 
From the 11th to the 14th of February, inclusive, the wind continued from 
the southward and eastward, and at the latter date the ship reached latitude 
29° 34^, and longitude 55'^^ 22', from which period to her arrival at port Louis 
on the 18th the wind hung to the northward and eastward, the trades having 
entirely failed. The weather throughout the passage was fine, the barometer 
varying from 29° 80' to 29° 95^, the thermometer from 74° to 84°, the cur- 
rents setting with the wind, and running at about three quarters of a knot 
per hour. 

There is no reason to doubt the correctness of the opinion of Horsburgh, 
to the effect that the best route for a sailing ship bound from the Cape of 
Good Hope to Mauritius, is that in which nearly the whole, if not all, the 
easting is made between the parallels of 35° and 38° of longitude, and the 
southeast trades are struck between the latitude of 27° and the longitude of 
55° or 57°. This course brings vessels well to the windward, and enables 
them to fetch the island of Mauritius without dif&culty, provided the trade 
winds do not haul north of E. by N. In the passage of the Mississippi the 
wind actually hauled as far as N.N.E., an occurrence not usual at the season, 
when northerly and northwesterly winds frequently prevail from Madagascar 
toward and beyond the island of Bourbon, (or, as it is now termed, Reunion,) 
and Mauritius. 

The question has been agitated as to whether it is advisable for steamers 
to make this curve in their route to Mauritius, or to steam directly from the 
Cape to the island, passing close round Cape Aghilus. The Commodore is 
decidedly of the opinion that, unless the steamer be one of first-rate speed, 
it would be unwise to take the direct route, in which she would have to con- 
tend against a strong trade wind and its consequent current. The difference 
between the two routes is about 240 miles, which would hardly seem to com- 
pensate for the loss occasioned by head winds and currents, leaving out of 
consideration the advantage of the cooler and more agreeable weather of the 
southern passage. The mail, and indeed all the European steamers, have 
usually taken the latter route ; and the Susquehanna, which attempted the 
direct course, although a faster steamer than the Mississippi, had a passage 
of seventeen days, while the Mississippi made the run by the other course 
in fifteen days. 

The Mississippi, in doubling the Cape of Good Hope in midsummer, es- 
caped any very heavy blow, although hardly a week passes without a gale 
from some quarter. Horsburgh remarks, in regard to the weather, that 
" in the storms off the Cape Bank and to the eastward, the sea is turbulent, 
and then goiierally accompanied with a black overcast sky ; when they are 



128 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

about to commence and during their continuance, numbers of albatross, pe- 
trels, and other oceanic birds, are seen flying about, although in moderate 
weather few are perceived, for at this time they rest on the surface of the sea 
to fish, which they cannot do in a storm." 

Nothing was observed of a remarkable character in a meteorological point 
of view. The temperature of the air and water gave similar indications to 
those in corresponding northern latitudes. The barometer gave due notice 
of all the various changes of weather, and proved of great utility. There is 
a peculiarity in the action of this instrument in the neighborhood of the Cape, 
and in that part of the route across the Indian Ocean as far as the Equator, 
of which Horsburgh thus remarks : " In the vicinity of the Cape Bank, and 
in most parts of the southern hemisphere, the mercury rises with northerly 
and falls with southerly winds ; these latter proceeding from a warmer atmos- 
phere, are much rarefied, consequently the mercury falls in the barometer, 
whereas northerly winds coming from the frozen regions near the pole are 
more dense, and cause the mercury to rise. This ought to be kept in remem- 
brance, for, when the wind is from southeast," continues Horsburgh, " I have 
several times observed the mercury to fall considerably before it changed to 
the north, and expected a gale, but the fall resulted only from the warmer 
air coming in contact with and repelling the former." 

In the course of the passage, the Mississippi spoke her Britannic Majes- 
ty's steamer Styx, thirteen days from Simon's Bay, bound to Mauritius. 
She was under sail, her engine having been disconnected, and the wheels, 
with all their buckets, allowed to revolve by the movement of the vessel 
through the water. She made tolerable way, but drifted much to leeward. 
The English war steamers frequently, by a simple arrangement, disconnect 
their engines for the purpose of saving fuel. This process of connecting and 
disconnecting is accomplished in a few minutes. In American naval steam- 
ers it is almost impossible to disconnect the engines, and the only practicable 
mode of using the sails exclusively is by the removal of the immersed floats. 
This requires moderate weather for its accomplishment, and the time neces- 
sary for doing it is about two hours, and double that time is required for the 
readjustment of the floats or buckets. 

It must be acknowledged with mortification, that our navy is in many 
respects very backward in availing itself of some of those improvements in 
steam vessels, which have been already adopted by other nations, and even 
by private enterprise. Since the construction of the Mississippi and the 
Missouri, the two first ocean war steamers introduced into our naval service, 
and for a time esteemed the finest in the world, there has been less progress 
in the building of such vessels than our position as a nation would seem to 
demand. Most of the maritime powers of Europe, and many companies, and 
even private individuals, have put afloat such vessels, as it must be acknow- 
ledged but few of our steamers could fairly compete with in excellence of 



ARBIVAL AT MAURITIUS. 129 

construction and equipment. The San Jacinto, Saranac, Fulton, and the 
Princeton, may be pointed to in illustration of these remarks. 

At half-past nine o'clock, on the morning of the 18th of February, the 
Mauritius was first seen from the deck, bearing N.N.E., and at noon, the 
Mississippi was nearly abreast of Cape Bravant, having passed in sight of 
Grand Port, the scene of the memorable action in August, 1810, between 
an English squadron, under the command of Captains Pyne and Willoughby, 
and a French force, under Commodore Duperie. In this engagement, the 
English were worsted, having lost nearly all their vessels. The battle was 
fought within the coral shoals which form the harbor of Grand Port, the 
batteries on the shore taking part in the action, which was prolonged several 



Early in the evening, the pilot having boarded the Mississippi near the 
mouth of the harbor, anchored and secured the steamer for the night at the 
outer, which are termed the Admiral's moorings. Next morning, the pilot 
returned to the ship, bringing with him several launches, manned by natives 
of Malabar, who, with the assistance of the crew of the Mississippi, completed 
her moorings, which was a process requiring much time and labor. All ves- 
sels entering the harbor of Port Louis are secured by frigates' chains, 
attached to mooring anchors, and brought on board, one at each bow and 
one at each quarter. This operation is entirely under the direction of the 
pilots, who, with their launches, warps, and numerous hands, are constantly 
occupied in mooring and unmooring the various vessels as they enter or leave 
the harbor. Vessels are moored head and stern, with their bows to the 
southeast, the direction from which the hurricanes usually come. As these 
generally blow directly out of the harbor, they are accompanied with very 
little sea ; but such is often the violence of the wind, that the strong moor- 
ings give way, and the most destructive results ensue, the vessels being 
dashed against each other, and the shores strewn with wrecks. It is rarely 
that these gales blow into the harbor, but when they do, a tremendous sea is 
thrown into the little port, and the strongest moored and best found vessels 
can hardly escape disaster. 

Every possible precaution has been taken by the government to provide 
against the destructive effects of these furious storms, and the authorities 
are vigorously seconded in their efforts by the intelligence and indefatigable 
attention of Lieutenant Edward Kelly, of the royal navy, the harbor master, 
who is ever on the alert tc meet the wants of vessels, giving warning of the 
appearance of an approaching gale, and suggesting such measures as may the 
better guard them against accident. Such was the favorable impression 
made upon the Commodore by the perfect state of the port regulations, that 
he was induced to address a note to Lieutenant Kelly, expressing his satis- 
faction, and thanking him for the facilities which had been rendered to the 
Mississippi. 

9 



130 



EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 



Our Light-house Board might gather from the example of these excellent 
regulations some useful hints ; but it is feared that that branch of adminis- 
tration, like too many others, is so much exposed to ignorant legislation, that 
any disposition it may have toward reform and progress would be hindered 
by unwise interference. 




CHAPTER IV. 

Mauritius, its Discovery.— Geojrgical Formation and Pliysical Aspect— Production of Sugar.— Effect on 
Agriculture of tlie Abolition of Slavery .—Coolies.— Population of the Island.— State of Feeling Be- 
tween English and French Residents. — Hospitable Treatment of the Expedition. — Description of Port 
Louis. — Grand Port. — Paul and Virginia. — Facts on which St. Pierre Founded his Story. — Tombs of 
Paul and Virginia. — Built by an Eccentric Frenchman. — Cyclones. —Their Probable Causes. — Interest 
felt in them at Mauritius. — Departure of the Mississippi from Port Louis. — Her Course thence to 
Point de Galle, Island of Ceylon. — Reasons for taking it. — Point de Galle, Description of. — Great 
Rendezvous of Steamers. — Difficulty of Procuring Fuel there. — American Consul. — Thoughts on 
Consular System. — Early Knowledge of Ceylon. — Its Several European Possessors. — Climate. — 
Salubrity.— Causes of its Diminished Prosperity.— Productions. — Value of Cocoanut Palm. — Pearl 
Fishery.— Immense Numbers of Elephants.— Great Slaughter of them.— Boa Constrictor.— Population 
of Ceylon.— Physique of Cingalese, Malabars, and Mahommedans in the Island.— Religious Condition.— 
Buddhism. — Pilgrimage to the Temples. — Intercourse with a Siamese Naval Officer at Ceylon. — Com- 
modore's Letter to the Second King of Siam. — Departure from Ceylon. — Passage through the Straits 
of Malacca. — Arrival at Singapore. 







ASCARENHAS, a PortuguGse commander, dis- 
covered Mauritius, with its neighboring 
island of Bourbon, in 1505, and the whole 
group was then named the Mascarenhas islands. The Portuguese took for- 
mal possession of Mauritius in 1545, but appear to have formed no settle- 
ment. In 1598, the Dutch surveyed it and gave to it its present name, in 
lienor of Maurice, the Stadtholder of the Netherlands. They, however, did 
not settle the island until after they had formed an establishment at the Cape 



132 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

in 1640; and then thej fixed themselves on the shore at Port Grand. In 
1708, from causes not now known, they abandoned the island, and from this 
time up to 1715, its only inhabitants were a few negroes, who had been 
brought there by the Dutch as slaves, and who, having escaped from their 
masters, concealed themselves in the mountain forests. In the year last 
named (1715) the French took possession, and formed a settlement at Port 
St. Louis, giving to the island the new name of the " Isle of France." They 
kept undisturbed possession until 1810, when it was taken from them by the 
British; and since the peace of 1814, these last have retained it. 

The island is, without doubt, volcanic in its structure, and is surrounded 
by a coral reef, which generally runs parallel to the shores, at a short dis- 
tance from them, and is mostly left dry at low water. There are, however, 
in this reef, eleven breaks or openings, through most of which vessels of con- 
siderable burden may pass. The interior of the island consists of a great 
number of lofty hills mostly isolated, though in one or two instances they 
form small chains. The Brabant mountains and the Bamboo ridge are the 
greatest elevations, and these are about three thousand feet above the sea 
level. 

The soil is generally shallow and not very productive. This ;*s owing 
to its dryness. The mean annual heat is about 76° of Fahrenheit. It is 
true they have rains, and in June, July, and August, showers are frequent, 
but of very short duration. The average fall of rain throughout the year 
would appear, from observation, to be about thirty-eight inches. The rainy 
season lasts from November to March or April, and then the water descends 
in torrents, accompanied with heavy gusts of wind, and not unfrequently with 
thunder and lightning. This region is subject also to hurricanes, quite as 
violent as any encountered in the West Indies; there is, however, no regu- 
larity in these, though five years rarely elapse without their appearance. 
The island is traversed by numerous water-courses, which diverge in all 
directions from the centre ; these, however, are filled with water in the rainy 
season only, and then they form numerous cascades and cataracts. In the 
dry season the water rapidly evaporates. 

The island was once well wooded, and a considerable part of the native 
forest still remains. The cocoa-nut palm, and sago, are common, as are also 
tamarind trees, mangroves, and bamboos. Yams, cassava, Indian corn, 
plantains, bananas, and melons are all cultivated as articles of food, as well 
as some of our vegetables, as spinach, asparagus, artichokes, cabbage, and 
peas. Wheat and rice are also produced, but in small quantities. Of fruits 
there are mangoes, shaddocks, and pine apples ; but oranges, grapes, peaches, 
and apples are inferior. The French introduced the spice trees of the In- 
dian islands; none, however, succeeded but the clove. The chief article of 
cultivation, since the British obtained possession, is sugar ; not more, how- 
ever, than three-eighths of the island is cultivated at all. The sugar cane 



AGRICULTURE OF MAURITIUS. 133 

is planted in the usual manner, tliough the fields present one peculiarity. 
The surface of the ground, in its original state, was covered with loose rocks 
and stones. These have been formed into parallel ridges about three or four 
feet apart, and between these the cane is planted. The cultivators are of 
opinion that these ridges, instead of being injurious to the cane, are rather 
advantageous; they retard the growth of weeds, shade and protect the 
young cane from violent winds, and retain moisture which reaches the roots 
of the cane. 

Before the introduction of guano as a fertilizer, the product was from 
2,000 to 2,500 French pounds of sugar to the arpent or French acre ; but 
the increase since the application of the guano has been so extraordinary as 
to be scarcely credible. In ordinary seasons the product has been from six 
to seven thousand pounds, and, under peculiarly favorable circumstances, it 
has even reached eight thousand pounds to the acre. Official returns show 
a gradual increase in the amount of sugar exported from the year 1812 up 
to the present time. Thus, in that year, it was but 969,260 French pounds ; 
in 1851 it amounted to 137,373,519 pounds, and the estimated crop of this 
year (1852) is 140,000,000 pounds. The land would produce cotton and 
tobacco, but the entire thoughts of the agriculturists of the island are 
directed to sugar. The proportion of guano used is about one-fourth of a 
pound to a cane, and the French arpent or acre is estimated to contain about 
two thousand plants. 

The general abolition of slavery by the English government caused here, 
as it did in the other English slaveholding colonies, much agricultural dis- 
tress; but after a time the introduction of laborers, chiefly from the Malabar 
coast, under certain prescribed regulations, enabled the planters not only to 
dispense with the services of the freed negroes, but to obtain labor on cheaper 
terms than before. The free blacks here, as elsewhere, seemed to think 
emancipation meant an exemption from all labor ; they were consequently 
indisposed generally to work at all, even for fair wages, and capriciously left 
their labor just when they pleased. The imported laborers, known under 
the name of coolies, perform nearly all the agricultural work of the island, 
as well as load and unload all the ships. On the sugar estates large com- 
munities of them are to be found. Comfortable houses are provided for 
them and their families, and exclusive of house rent and provisions, which 
are furnished to them, they receive from two to three dollars a month as 
wages. This is cheaper to the planter than slave labor was. The municipal 
laws for the protection and government of the coolies are judicious and 
sufficiently minute, yet these people pay but little regard to any bargain they 
may make with their employers ; they go and come very much as they please, 
and are tolerated in the exercise of a much larger liberty than is accorded 
to laboring men in either England or the United States. Notwithstanding all 
these disadvantages, however, the planter makes large profits from their labor. 



134 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

The population of tlie whole island is about 180,000. Of these nearly 
100,000 are negroes from Madagascar and the eastern coast of Africa, who 
were once slaves. Beside these, are Malays, fishermen from Malabar, Las- 
cars, and Chinese. Some of these latter have been imported for agricultural 
labor. The white population is nine or ten thousand. Of these the larger 
part are Creoles of French origin, and speak the French language. They 
also form the wealthier portion of the white population. The English in 
Mauritius having, for the most part, a connexion, direct or indirect, with 
the colonial government, are somewhat exclusive in their social relations. 
The French are not less tenacious, and hence, though there are no open 
dissensions between them, yet to the impartial stranger, who mingles freely 
with both, it is quite apparent that there is little real harmony, and a feeling 
of nationality exists which would probably induce the majority to hail with 
pleasure a return to the dominion of France. As in most countries which, 
like Mauritius, have involuntarily changed their nationality, the females in- 
dulge, in a greater degree than the other sex, the prejudices of country; 
perhaps because they mix less with the new comers. 

Both classes of the population, however, English and French, were 
exceedingly kind and hospitable to the members of the expedition. On 
arriving in an armed United States vessel at any of the English colonial 
settlements, great hospitality is usually extended to our officers, and visits 
of ceremony, with a constant interchange of dinner parties and other cour- 
tesies, commonly leave to the commander but little opportunity for quiet 
observation of that which may characterize the people generally. In fact 
he is for a time unavoidably subjected to the bondage of official restraint, 
and is sometimes made a prisoner even by the friendly tyranny of kindness 
and hospitality. 

During the brief stay of the ship at Mauritius, the English officials and 
merchants exhibited the most profuse hospitality toward the Commodore 
and his officers, while the French population were no whit behind them in 
the unostentatious display of their kindness. These last evinced most 
friendly feelings and no small share of intelligence, and while both classes 
were equally hospitable, the only difference was that the Englishman was, 
perhaps, a little the more stately, and the Frenchman a little the less ceremo- 
nious. Nothing could be kinder than the treatment of both. 

Port Louis, the capital of the island, is situated near its northwestern 
extremity, on a small bay, which is but a narrow inlet of the sea, somewhat 
more than a mile long, and about five hundred yards broad. At the 
extreme southwestern corner the town is built. The streets are straight, 
but not paved. The principal street runs parallel to the shore of the bay. 
The houses are chiefly of wood, and of but a single story. The population 
is, perhaps, from twenty-five to thirty thousand, of which from four to five 
thousand are white. The residue are for the most part blacks. Grand 




lj|Hl||;!|i|!^.i!t-' 



PAUL AND VIRGINIA. 135 

Port, on the southeastern side of the island, is sufficiently capacious, and is 
more convenient for shipping the sugar, of which large quantities are grown 
in the neighborhood ; but apart from the intricacies of its entrance, it is 
open to the southeast, from which quarter the hurricanes blow most 
furiously. 

It is not to be supposed that, among those who read at all, there are 
many who are unacquainted with the beautiful story of Paul and Virginia, 
by Bernardin St. Pierre. The accomplished author was an officer of the 
garrison of Mauritius in 1744, and at that time a melancholy catastrophe, 
which happened on one of the coral reefs surrounding the island, furnished a 
basis of facts on which he reared his interesting fiction. 

One is rather reluctant to destroy the illusion produced by the romantic 
narrative of St. Pierre ; but, in sober truth, he was indebted to his imagina- 
tion for the picture of the storm, and the brave and generous Paul is but a 
myth. The facts are these : On the night of the 18th of August, 1744, 
the French ship St. Gevan was wrecked on one of the reefs on the north- 
eastern coast of the island. On board the ship were two young ladies, by 
name Mallet and Caillon, (who were returning as passengers from France, 
whither they had been sent for education,) both of whom were lost. The 
depositions taken at the time by the French officials, and from which these 
facts are gathered, state that Mademoiselle Caillon was last seen upon the 
top-gallant forecastle of the wrecked vessel, with a gentleman, Monsieur 
Longchamps de Montendre, who was at the time endeavoring to persuade 
her to trust herself to his efforts to save her. To enable him, however, to 
accomplish the object, it was necessary for her to disencumber herself of 
some portion of her clothing, and this, from a sense of modesty, she declined 
doing, and so perished with Monsieur Montendre and the larger part of the 
crew of the ill-fated vessel. It was conjectured that Monsieur Montendre 
was the lover of Mademoiselle Caillon, as, after lowering himself down the 
ship's side to throw himself into the sea, he returned and earnestly endeav- 
ored to prevail on the young lady to leave the vessel with him, and on her 
refusal would not again leave her. 

Mademoiselle Mallet was on the quarter deck with Monsieur de Peramont, 
who never left her for a moment. On these facts as a basis St. Pierre framed 
his story. The celebrity given to it has always awakened the interest of 
strangers visiting the island, who have naturally desired to look upon scenes 
consecrated by the pen of genius, and associated in their minds with inci- 
dents which, if not literally true, have at least deeply touched their sen- 
sibilities. The officers of the ship were, therefore, glad to land, and among 
other objects visited, strange to say, they were conducted to what the 
islanders are pleased to call the graves of Paul and Virginia. The history of 
these resting places of the imaginary dead is this : An eccentric French 
gentleman having a country residence about eight miles from St. Louis, and 



136 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

possibly near the supposed graves of some of the lost, erected in liis garden 
two monuments to the memory of the unfortunate fictitious Paul and Vir- 
ginia, (Mademoiselle Caillon and Monsieur Montendre.) The object was 
simply to add the stimulus of curiosity to the other attractions of his resi- 
dence, and thus draw around him a more numerous circle, to whom he might 
extend that hospitality for which he, in common with the French of his day, 
was famous, and thus enjoy the pleasures of society. This benevolent and 
eccentric being has been long dead, but the tombs are still standing, though 
in a state of dilapidation, and still attract strangers. Alas ! no hospitable 
greeting now awaits the visitor. His money is demanded at the garden gate, 
all sentiment evaporates, and he walks in to see the show. This custom of 
demanding payment from visitors to places of public interest is almost pecu- 
liar to the English, and its existence is to many of the people of England 
themselves a source of mortification and annoyance. There are certain places 
in which payment is perfectly proper, but there are others in which, though 
regularly exacted, it should not be asked. The sight of Longwood and a 
glance at Napoleon's tomb were both paid for by the gentlemen of the 
expedition at St. Helena ; but the custom alluded to is one which may be 
found throughout the extent of her Majesty's dominions. 

So much was said at Mauritius of the hurricanes, or cyclones, common 
to this part of the Indian ocean, that the Commodore scarcely entertained a 
hope of escaping from this region without encountering one. These hurri- 
canes, at the season of their occurrence, (from December to April,) form the 
great topic of interest and discussion to the Mauritians. In fact, they 
talk of little else at that period. Meteorological instruments of every kind 
are kept in use, and under the most watchful observation. Nor is this 
great solicitude without reason, for these cyclones, when they do come, are 
but too apt to bring ruin and desolation to the merchant and planter. 

The immediate cause of these atmospherical phenomena has been sup- 
posed to be a disturbance of the equilibrium in the air that takes place at 
the change of the monsoons. This period of strife lasts about a month, 
and then the hurricanes rage with terrific violence. Redfield, Reed, and 
others, have explained the laws by which they suppose them to be governed ; 
and their hypothesis is perfectly well known and understood by the Mauri- 
tians. The islands of Mauritius, Bourbon, and Roderique, lie directly in 
their ordinary track, and if either of them happens to fall within the vortex 
of one of these hurricanes, the consequences to life and property are terrible 
indeed. . 

The natural interest felt in the subject, as well as its great practical 
importance, have given rise to many discussions as to the best means to be 
adopted, should a vessel unfortunately find herself within their sweeping 
influence or in their proximity; and though these discussions may, and 
doubtless will, result in a better understanding of the laws which govern 



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THE CYCLONES. 137 

these winds, yet it must be confessed that some of them have rather a ten- 
dency to confuse the simple-minded and practical seaman, who, if caught in 
one of these storms, should undertake ihen to find rules for his guidance. 
He can spare no time from the handling of his vessel, and however plain, 
abstract principles may be to him who is at leisure quietly to master them 
on shore, the cabin of a ship in a storm is a poor school of philosophy. 
This, however, only shows the necessity there is that the seaman who would 
understand his profession^ should study and master all that science has 
brought to light, when he can do so on shore, and before he is caught in a 
storm which demands its immediate application. However, the instructions 
given by the earlier writers on these hurricanes are now more generally 
understood than they were, by the well informed seaman, particularly since 
they have been further explained and simplified by the more recent publica- 
tion of Piddington. 

Of those residing at Mauritius who have earnestly studied and discussed 
the laws which govern these storms, may be mentioned Dr. Thom, whose 
writings are well known. Lieutenant Fryers, of the royal engineers, and Mr. 
Sedgewick, who has published a little work, which he calls " The True 
Principle," and which has been reviewed by Dr. Thom ; and, lastly, a Creole 
gentleman attached to the observatory at Mauritius, Mr. Bosquett. 

This last named gentleman, who has translated into French Piddington's 
Horn book, with annotations of his own, claims to be able, by careful and 
constant meteorological observations, to foretell the existence of hurricanes 
in the Indian ocean, and to describe the course they will take. The day 
before the Mississippi left Mauritius, he informed the Commodore that a 
cyclone was then blowing in a direction E. by N. from the island, and that 
it would pass to the southward and eastward. 

By reference to the chart in Piddington's Horn book it will be seen that 
these cyclones never extend to the northward of 10° or 12° south latitude, 
in the meridian of Mauritius. Therefore, vessels leaving the island in the 
hurricane season, for any part of India, should steer to the northward, pass- 
ing well to the westward of the Cargados, a most dangerous group, thus 
keeping a clear sea open to the westward, that there may be nothing in the 
way should it be desirable to run to the northward and westward, which 
would be the true course to take in case of encountering the southwestern 
or northwestern quadrants of a cyclone, (which, in the hurricane season, a 
vessel from Mauritius is in danger of,) and this course she should keep until 
she is sufficiently far north to be beyond its influence. Steamers, of course, 
have superior means of avoiding these storms, as they have the power of 
steering the most judicious course to escape from their greatest fury. 

Following the advice of several experienced seamen, when the Mississip- 
pi left, she took the circuitous route (the distance from Mauritius to Ceylon 
being thereby made 150 miles greater) and passed to the westward of the 



138 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

Cargados and between tlie island Galega and Laya de Mahla Bank ; thence, 
doubling the northern extremity of that bank the ship was steered to the 
eastward for Pona Moluqiie, the southernmost of the Maldives ; after pass- 
ing this the course was direct for Point de Galle in Ceylon. 

Before leaving the United States, Messrs. Howland & Aspinwall, of 
New York, at the suggestion of the Commodore, had despatched two ships 
laden with coal, one to the Cape of Good Hope, and the other to Mauritius. 
The prudence of this precaution was proved by the result ; but for these 
two cargoes the Mississippi, as well as the other steamers of the squadron 
which were to follow her — the Powhatan and Alleghany — would have had 
the greatest difficulty in procuring fuel. In the case of both cargoes, they 
arrived at their respective places of destination a few days before the Mis- 
sissippi, so that both at the Cape and Mauritius the ship was enabled at 
once to take in fresh fuel, and leave a supply for the steamers that were to 
come after.* 

Having taken on board about five hundred tons of this coal, with such 
other supplies as were needed, the Mississippi left St. Louis on the morning 
of the 28th of February, intending to touch for a further supply of fuel either 
at Point de Galle or Singapore, if it should appear possible to reach the latter 
named place with the coal taken on board at Mauritius. The course was 
that already indicated above, and on the evening of the 10th of March the 
light was made on Point de Galle, island of Ceylon, after a passage of thir- 
teen days. 

The port of Point de Galle is the general rendezvous of the English 
India mail steamers, not only of those which ply to and from the Bed sea, 
but of those which double the Cape of Good Hope, bound to India or the 
China seas. Large quantities of coal and patent fael are brought from 
England and deposited there ; and though the quantity would seem to be 
enormous, yet so great is the consumption of the numerous steamers, of 
which there are about ten each month touching at the port, that there is 
sometimes an apprehension felt of the supply of fuel falling short. The Ori- 
ental Steam Navigation Company have given positive orders not to supply a 
single ton to any foreign vessel-of-war, and consequently the Mississippi 
could obtain only a limited supply from the Bengal government. 

* " To the zealous and energetic services of Messrs. Howland & Aspinwall, in the 
faithful fulfilment of their engagements with the Navy Department, I am gi-eatly indebted ; 
had it not been for their prompt and effectual agency, I should have found myself seriously 
embarrassed in controlling the movements of the steamers of my command. Ihe ample 
provision thus placed at my disposal not only relieved me from care upon the score of fuel, 
without which side-wheel steamers are worse than useless, but enabled me to exercise a 
most gratifying courtesy in furnishing to several foreign war steamers supplies of this 
essential article, which could not be obtained at the time from any other sovirce." — Extract 
from the Commodore^s Journal. 



POINT DE GALLE. 1:39 

The town of G-alle is situated upon a peninsula, the inner curve of which 
forms the harbor. Thick walls of considerable height enclose the town 
within a space of about fifteen acres. The inhabitants are thus shut up 
within a close fortress, from which the sea breezes are almost entirely 
excluded, and must suffer very much from the heat, which cannot be other- 
wise than excessive, in a latitude almost under the equator. The heat, how- 
ever, is not so intense as on the neigliboring coast of India. During the 
stay of the Mississippi the highest range of the thermometer (Fahrenheit) 
was 85°, and the lowest was 82°. The ordinary range at Point de Galle, 
however, is set down at from 70° to 87°. 

Fresh supplies of food of almost every description can be readily obtained 
at this port ; bullocks, pigs, fruit, and vegetables, abound. The fish are 
abundant and good. Wood is plentiful and tolerably good. Water can be 
obtained in reasonable quantities, but it is bad. 

The population of the town is composed of English ofiicials and mer- 
chants, and a motley collection of tradesmen and laborers of all varieties of 
color, from negro black to dingy brown. 

The Commodore and his officers were not a little mortified, as well as 
somewhat embarrassed, by finding, on their arrival at Point de Galle, the 
United States commercial agent, a native of Scotland, confined to his prem- 
ises under an execution for debt. Various accounts of the circumstances 
connected with this unfortunate position of affairs were communicated to the 
Commodore, but he studiously avoided any interference with the matter. It 
was no part of his business or duty to interpose ; and humiliating as was this 
state of things, he could not but feel that the fault was in the former consu- 
lar system of the United States. Our country had no right to expect our 
consuls and commercial agents, many of whom were unfitted in every respect 
for their stations, either to represent or sustain the commercial interests of 
the nation so long as the system then existing was followed. The fees at 
many of the places where our consular agents were accredited, it was noto- 
rious would scarce suffice to clothe them, and, accordingly, to eke out a 
scanty living, they were frequently obliged to resort to some sort of 
business, often not of the most dignified character. Of course, there were 
always honorable exceptions to this unfavorable state of things. Many of 
our consuls have been and are men of high position, who have not failed to 
exercise a strong infiuence upon the local governments within which they 
may have resided. But for this they have been less indebted to the consular 
office than to their deservedly high commercial standing ; at the same time 
it may be true, that possessing such high personal characters as they do, in 
their cases, the consular office, worthily bestowed, may add somewhat to 
their influence. The recent action of Congress has shown the sense enter- 
tained by that body of the correctness of these views and of the need of 
reform ; and it is hoped the measures adopted will guarantee for the future 



140 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

a dignified representative of our commercial interests wherever we have a 
consul. 

Ceylon has been long known to Europe. The first accounts were received 
from two of the commanders of the fleet dispatched by Alexander the Great 
from the Indus to the Persian Gulf. A description of the island may be 
found recorded by ancient authors ; both Pliny and Ptolomeus have left 
accounts of its character and condition. It is supposed that the Persians 
had formed a Christian establishment on the coast before the sixth century ; 
and in the thirteenth, the celebrated traveller, Marco Polo, visited Ceylon, 
of which he has left a glowing description, having been so much struck with 
its beauty and richness, that in his enthusiasm he has termed it the finest 
island in the world. Sir John Mandeville, the English traveller, also visited 
it some fifty years later. 

The Portuguese, however, were the first among the Europeans to estab- 
lish intimate relations with Ceylon. When they found their way to India, 
by the Cape of Good Hope, they were welcomed by the king, whose domin- 
ions at the time were a prey to intestine war. The Europeans, taking 
advantage of the civil dissensions which prevailed, and offering themselves 
as mediators, succeeded in establishing a foothold in the country, which they 
took care to maintain. In 1520, the Portuguese strongly fortified them- 
selves at Colombo, and held a controlling influence over the natives, until 
they were dispossessed by the latter, aided by the Dutch, who, in their turn, 
changed their relation of friends to that of masters of the people. The war 
with the Portuguese lasted more than twenty years, and they were not finally 
expelled the island until 1656. The various fortified positions at Batticolo, 
Point de Galle, Negombo, and Colombo, fell into the hands of the Dutch, 
who thus controlled the maritime provinces. 

During the European wars at the end of the eighteenth century, the 
French got possession of Trincomalee, but they were ejected by the British, 
who, in their turn, were forced to yield it up to the former possessors, and it 
finally was restored to the Dutch, who continued to hold it, together with 
the sea coast, until they were wrested from them, in 1796, by the British, 
who were formally acknowledged as the possessors by the treaty of Amiens. 
English history records that the whole island, by the invitation of the na- 
tives, was taken possession of, in 1815, by the British crown, under the 
sovereignty of which Ceylon still remains. It is difficult to say who, of the 
successive masters of the poor Cingalese, have been the most cruel and 
oppressive, and, in fact, it is feared that but little can be said in palliatiou 
of the fraud and perfidy of eithe*' of them. 

In olden time, before its occupation by the Europeans, Ceylon was one 
of the richest and most productive of the kingdoms of the east. The natives, 
at a very early period, showed great skill in the development of the resources 
of the island, and increased the fertility of the soil by ingenious modes of 



ISLAND OF CEYLON. 141 

artificial irrigation ; and numerous vestiges of imposing works, constructed 
for this purpose, remain to this day. 

The climate of Ceylon is very much influenced by the monsoons. The 
northeast prevails from November to February, and the southwest from April 
to September ; but there are certain local causes which influence these winds 
and modify their temperature. There is a great diff"erence between the cli- 
mate of the northern and southern portions of the island, and a curious effect 
hence results ; for not seldom on one side of a mountain the rain is fall- 
ing abundantly, while on the other it is so dry that the herbage is parched 
and withered ; and thus, while the inhabitants of the former are doing their 
utmost to protect their lands from the flood, those of the latter are striving 
to obviate the consequences of the drought, by availing themselves of the 
scant reservoirs of water which may have been left from previous rains. 

The island is comparatively healthy, as is indicated by the rate of mor- 
tality, which, being less than three per cent., shows a remarkable salubrity 
for an eastern country. As the clearing of the jungles and the draining of 
the marshes proceed, a still higher degree of health may be reasonably ex- 
pected. 

Ceylon did not appear as flourishing a colony as the Mauritius, though it 
possesses superior geographical advantages. Lying, as it does, as a sort of 
outpost to the principal possessions of the English in the east, and offering, 
in its port of Gralle, a point for the distribution of intelligence throughout 
India and China, it is much resorted to. 

With all its natural advantages, however, the island at present is far less 
flourishing than might have been expected. The exports are limited in com- 
parison with the acknowledged fertility of the island, to the productive power 
of which there would hardly seem to be any limit. Labor may be obtained, 
too, for twelve cents a day, and yet the agricultural interests are not as 
promising, as, under such favorable circumstances, they should' be. The 
natives, too, are said not to be wanting in industry, but their needs are so 
few, living, as they do, upon fish, rice, and cocoa-nuts, that they are never 
forced by necessity to labor hard for their subsistence. 

Of the productions of the island, the cocoa-nut is probably the most 
valuable to the natives. Everywhere in Ceylon, as far as the eye can reach, 
extensive plantations of this tree are to be seen, and the numerous roads 
throughout the island are bordered with it. The weary and heated traveller 
finds not only protection from the sun in its shade, but refreshment from the 
milk of the fruit, which is both agreeable to the taste and wholesome. The 
cocoa-nut palm has a great variety of uses. The green fruit, with its deli- 
cate albuminous meat and its refreshing milk, is a favorite article of food. 
When ripe, the kernel of the nut is dried, forming what the natives term 
copperal, and an oil of great value is expressed from it, while the residuum 
forms an excellent oil-cake for the fattening of animals. Even the husk of 



142 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

the nut is useful ; its fibres are wrought into the coir rope, of which large 
quantities are annually exported, and the shells are manufactured into va- 
rious domestic utensils. From the sap of the tree a drink is obtained 
which is called " toddy," and made into arrack by distillation. The leaves 
afford a good material for the thatching of the native huts, and are, more- 
over, given as food to elephants. The Palmyra palm, which also abounds 
in the island, shares with the cocoa-nut tree in many of its advantages. 

The other staples of Ceylon are cinnamon, coffee, sugar, rice, arica nut, 
precious stones, plumbago, (probably the best in the world,) and other vege- 
table and mineral productions. The pearl fisheries, for which the island 
was once famous, have very much diminished in their yield. The natives 
account for the diminution by declaring that the pearl-oyster has the power 
of locomotion, and has shifted its former quarters to some new ground not 
yet discovered. The scarcity is probably owing to the fact that the pearls 
have been disturbed before they have reached their full development, which 
is said to require a period of seven years. At one time the fishery was a 
source of handsome revenue to the government ; in 1797 the sum of £140,000 
was derived from it. Since that period the proceeds have gradually fallen 
off, until at present they amount to almost nothing. Diving for the pearl- 
oyster is a favorite occupation among the natives of Ceylon, as a skilful diver 
can earn ten times the wages of a farm laborer, and the employment is not, 
as has been stated, unfavorable to health, but, on the contrary, conducive to 
strength and vigor of body. 

Ceylon abounds in a rich vegetation, and many trees of a vigorous 
growth, among which, in addition to the cocoa-nut and Palmyra palm, there 
is the kettal tree, from the sap of which is produced a coarse sugar, and 
from its fruit, when dried and reduced to powder, a substitute for rice flour. 
The talipot, with its immense foliage, is one of the wonders of the island ; a 
single leaf of this tree is sufficient to cover beneath its shade several persons, 
and it supplies, when softened by boiling, a substitute for paper, upon which 
the natives are in the habit of writing, and find in it a most durable mate- 
rial. The cinnamon with its beautiful white blossom and its red tipped 
leaves, and other odoriferous trees, are among the native products of Cey- 
lon ; but the stories of the fragrance of the aroma exhaled from these trees 
and the plants, and which voyagers have described as sensible at a distance 
from the land, are gross exaggerations. No fragrance was observed equal 
to that of the magnolia or of the delightful perfume of the newly-mown 
grass of our own country, or in any degree approaching the delicious odor 
of the heliotrope and geranium hedges of Madeira. The cultivated flowers 
that were seen at Ceylon and at Mauritius were, in fact, remarkable for 
their want of fragrance. Rich woods of various kinds, as the rose, the 
ebony, the satin, and lime, grow in abundance on the island, and are used 
for many purposes of utility and ornament. 



ELEPHANT HUNTING IN CEYLON. 143 

WitHn the forests and in the jungles of Ceylon are found a great va- 
riety of wild animals — the elephant, the hyena, tiger-cat, the bear, the deer, 
and the monkey, are among the most abundant. The number of elephants 
is incredibly great, and, issuing in troops from their lairs, they come crush- 
ing down the cultivated fields and plantations and devouring the crops, with 
great loss to the proprietors. They are found in all the uncultivated parts 
of the island, but their favorite haunts are near to the farms, to which they 
prove so destructive that the colonial government pays a reward of 7s. 6d. 
(about $1 85) for every tail of the animal which is brought to the authori- 
ties. Mr. Talbot, the Government agent at Galle, stated, surprising as it 
may seem, that he had paid during the preceding year two hundred pounds 
sterling for tails, which would give six hundred as the number of elephants 
destroyed. 

An army officer, as was stated to the Commodore, actually killed, during 
his residence on the island, no less than six hundred of these gigantic ani- 
mals. Within a few months of the arrival of the Mississippi, two officers of 
the garrison, one of whom (Lieutenant Lennox) became personally known to 
the Commodore, destroyed no less than forty elephants in the course of a 
sporting visit of six weeks to the jungle. They are ordinarily shot with a 
rifle ; the sportsman approaches his game in front, or perhaps, as the sailors 
would say, on the quarter, that he may aim at either of the only two vital 
parts upon which a rifle ball will have any eff"ect, one being directly in the 
forehead, through which the brain is penetrated, and the other behind the 
ear. If the hunter chance to come up to his elephant in the rear, he raises a 
shout or makes a noise, by which the animal is attracted, and, turning its 
head, or throwing forward its ears, exposes the vital spot, at which his ruth- 
less enemy aims the deadly ball, and brings down his huge victim. The ele- 
phants of Ceylon are not so large as those of other parts of India, and but 
a small proportion of them have tusks. 

Of serpents, there are but twenty species, four only of which are venom- 
ous, the cobra and tic prolango being the most deadly. The latter is said 
to be endowed with great cunning, and to lie in wait for the purpose of 
attacking the passing traveller. The stories which are told of the anaconda, 
boa constrictor or python, seizing upon cattle and horses, and even horsemen, 
must be received as fabulous. There is, however, a species of boa peculiar 
to the island, which is capable of swallowing a deer whole, and after they 
have indulged in venison to that degree, and become surfeited with so sub- 
stantial a meal, they fall readily a prey to the captor. This is believed to 
be the extent of the powers of deglutition of the Ceylon boas ; those 
enormous serpents, which are said to swallow an entire ox, horns and all, 
being unknown in that region. It may not be amiss to refer here to a rem- 
edy for venomous bites, for which popular opinion in the east claims consid- 
erable efficacy, this is a paste made by moistening the powder of ipecachu- 



144 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

ana with water, and applying it to tlie external injury. Some wonderful 
effects have been reported from the use of this simple means in various 
cases, of not only bites from venomous serpents, but of stings by the scor- 
pion and various poisonous fish. 

The population of Ceylon is estimated at about 1,442,062, of whom 
8,275 are whites, 1,413,486 colored persons, and 20,431 aliens and resident 
strangers. The inhabitants are composed of the natives, termed Cingalese, 
of a small proportion of Europeans, principally government officials, mili- 
tary officers and merchants with their families, and of negroes, Malays, and 
Chinese. The Cingalese were less ugly in appearance than was expected, 
many of the men, in fact, (as for the women few were seen, and none of the 
better class,) have expressive and even handsome faces, and their forms are 
not without symmetry. They seem to be amiable in disposition, and are 
remarkable for their effeminate habits. So similar is the costume of the 
two sexes, that it is difficult often for the casual observer to distinguish the 
man from the woman. The males allow their hair to grow to a great length, 
which they foster with much care, and fasten to the tops of their heads with 
large tortoise shell combs, such as our ladies at home might not be ashamed 
to wear. 

The common dress of the better class of the Cingalese is a jacket, worn 
next to the skin, and from the waist downward a colored petticoat, wrapped 
in graceful folds round the limbs and falling to the feet. The head, well 
protected as it is with the superabundant hair, is generally bare of any artifi- 
cial covering. Some of the common people, however, wrap a cloth turban- 
wise around their brows, which they shift to their body when mingling with 
the crowds, and thus eke out their scanty drapery, which ordinarily consists 
only of a petticoat. Some of the aborigines, who live in a rude condition 
within the fastnesses of the great forests, confine themselves in dress to the 
simple wardrobe of nature. 

In addition to the Cingalese, who are doubtless descendants of the abo- 
rigines of the island, there are the Malabars, whom tradition traces to the 
neighboring shores of India, and whose religion and social characteristics 
would seem to connect them with that country. They are Hindoos, and pre- 
serve their religion and system of caste, together with the costumes of their 
original country, as well as their language, somewhat modified, however, by 
their relation with the Cingalese. The neighboring islands and continents 
supply a population of Mahommedans or Moors to Ceylon, and they abound 
in several parts of the country, where in the various orders into which their 
law of caste divides them, they carry on a prosperous business as weavers, 
fisliermen, merchants, and bakers. They are among tlie most enterprising 
and thriving of the population, and their well known skill and industry have 
secured them much of the commercial wealth and influence of the island. 

The native language of the aborigines is peculiar to themselves, but their 




i -: 



RELIGION OF CEYLON. 145 

writings are in Sanscrit or Pali. A provincial dialect of Portuguese is, 
however, generally spoken by those natives who have passed their lives in 
the European portions of the island. 

The Christian religion was introduced at a very early period into Cey- 
lon. It has been supposed that the apostle Saint Thomas preached there ; 
however this may be, there is but little doubt that the Nestorians accompa- 
nied the Persian merchants, many years ago, to the island, and made converts 
there and established Christianity. On the arrival, however, of the Portu- 
guese navigators, there were no remnants of those churches which are said to 
have existed in Ceylon in the sixth century. The zealous Francis Xavier, 
the Roman Catholic missionary, however, was the first, by his earnest preach- 
ing and proselyting energies, to establish the Christian religion permanently 
on the island, and most of that faith are, accordingly, Romanists. The 
Church of England is, of course, sustained in accordance with the religious 
opinions of the British authorities ; and the various other Protestant 
churches have their members among the European residents. There are 
missionaries of various sects engaged in efforts to evangelize the native 
heathen, but with what success did not appear. Among these there are no 
less than eleven Americans ; and the different churches are represented in the 
proportion of thirty-four Romanist missionaries, twenty Wesley ans, fourteen 
of the English church, and thirteen Baptists. The predominant religion 
among the Cingalese is the Buddhist, which was at one time maintained by 
the British government, a heathen inheritance derived from the succession 
to the native kings. The tooth of Buddha, the relic so highly revered by 
his followers, was taken under the especial protection of English orthodoxy, 
and the ecclesiastical patronage of the Bnddhist establishment was exercised 
by England, in accordance with the not very scrupulous views of political 
expediency. The guardianship of the tooth of Buddha, and the dispensa- 
tion of Buddhist church patronage, have been, of late years, properly dele- 
gated by a Christian nation to a heathen priesthood. 

There are numerous Buddhist temples in Ceylon, some of which pre- 
sent an impressive aspect ; and there is one of great antiquity, and so much 
venerated as to attract votaries from various parts of India. On the arrival 
of the Mississippi there was a Siamese sloop-of-war in the harbor, which had 
brought a number of Buddhist priests on a pilgrimage to this temple. 

An interesting incident occurred in connexion with the presence of the 
Siamese man-of-war. For many reasons the Commodore was desirous of 
showing some marked attention to the commander of this vessel, who, on 
acquaintance, was found to be a young man of much intelligence, and pos- 
sessing some knowledge of the English language. The Commodore, there- 
fore, dispatched his aid, Lieutenant Contee, to offer to him his services and to 
invite him on board the Mississippi. The Siamese commander seemed 
pleased with the compliment, and came on board the Mississippi the follow- 
10 



146 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN/ 

ing day, where he was received with due honors. He was aceompanied by 
two of the Buddhist priests who had come from Siam in his vessel on a pil- 
grimage to the famous temple. It was learned, on inquiry that Prince 
Phar-Pen-Clow-Chow-Yon-Hon, who was so civil to Mr. Roberts and the 
officers of the Peacock on the occasion of their visit to Siam, in 1836, was 
the second in rank in his kingdom, or second king, as it is termed. The 
Commodore, therefore, being desirous of renewing the good understanding 
which formerly subsisted between him and our officers, which, however, had 
been somewhat disturbed by the visit of Mr. Ballastier, sent him a beautiful 
pistol, of Colt's patent, and addressed to him the following letter : 

United States Ship Mississippi, 

Point de Galle, Island of Ceylon^ March 14, 1853. 

Most Exalted Prince : — I have been most happy to meet at this port 
a vessel-of-war belonging to the kingdom of Siam, one of beautiful form 
and construction, and commanded by an officer of skill and merit. 

In remembrance of the kindness you extended to the late Mr. Roberts 
and the officers of the United States ship Peacock, in 1836, I beg your 
acceptance of a curious pistol which has been entrusted to my charge, to be 
presented to some high functionary who has sufficient acquaintance with the 
arts to understand its mechanism and use. 

The renown which your Highness has acquired in America, for your 
attainments in every branch of science, induces me to place at your disposal 
this trifling gift of Mr. Colt. 

I hope that you will send one of your ships of Siam to America, where 
I can promise the officers a friendly and honorable welcome. 

It will, at all times, give me the greatest pleasure to render to all vessels 
under the Siamese flag whatever aid or assistance it may be in my power to 
command. 

With profound respect I have the honor to be your most obedient 
servant, 

M. C. PERRY, Commander-in-chief 
of all the U. S. naval forces in the East India, China, and Jajxm seas. 

To his R03 al Highness Phar-Pen-Clow-Chow-Yon-Hon. 

The Commodore was induced thus to take the initiative in endeavoring 
to open communications with Siam, in the hope that he might possibly be 
able to revive the treaty between tliat kingdom and the United States, made 
on our part by Mr. Roberts. This had virtually become a dead letter and 
altogether inoperative, as had, indeed, also that made by England with the 
same people. Sir John Davis and Sir James Brooke, on behalf of England, 
and Mr. Ballastier, on the part of the United States, had made subsequent 
efl'orts and been politely repulsed ; but the Commodore hoped that possibly 



STRAITS OF MALACCA. 147 

another attempt might result more successfully ; and as he had been entrusted 
by the government with several blank letters of credence, he was prepared 
to act on the authority of one of them should he find a favorable opening. 
Both the kings of Siam, and many of their officers, understand the English 
language, and one object of the Commodore was to induce the monarch to 
send one of his ships to the United States (they are all, vessels, at once, 
both of war and commerce) to examine into our institutions, resources, &c., 
and thus lead to friendly commercial relations. 

The Commodore subsequently received a courteous answer to his letter, 
and from that and private information which he had taken pains to get of 
his probable reception, he would have gone to Siam had not uncontrollable 
circumstances prevented. 

The Commodore also presented to Mun-Clow-Sar-Coun, captain of the 
Siamese sloop-of-war, a service sword and a copy of " Bowditch's Navi- 
gator." 

The Mississippi left Glalle on the morning of the 15th of March, and 
after getting clear of the harbor, shaped her course for Great Nicobar Island, 
the southernmost of the group of that name, with the intention of passing 
between it and Paloway, a small island or rock lying off the northern 
extremity of Sumatra. On the 20th, G-reat Nicobar was made, and the 
proposed course having been taken, the steamer entered the Straits of 
Malacca, steering for the Malay shore, on which side the weather is repre- 
sented as being more settled and the sky less obscured. 

Fortunately, the weather was favorable during the passage through the 
straits, and it was found necessary to anchor once only during the night, at 
the entrance between the North and South Sands, within sight of the Aroa 
islands. The navigation of the straits did not appear to the Commodore as 
dangerous as an examination of the chart had led him to expect ; yet it is 
somewhat intricate, and certainly not free from danger. 

A vessel has, however, the advantage of being always able to anchor, 
though, in some parts of the channel, necessarily in rather deep water. The 
two most dangerous passages are that termed the East and West Channel ; 
and the narrow one between Formosa bank and the Pyramids lying opposite, 
and the northern end of the middle bank. A light vessel recently anchored 
on, " Two-and-a-half fathom bank " renders the former passage more safe ; 
while the latter is made more secure by the high land of Cape Formosa, the 
bearings of and distance from which will, in clear weather, indicate the 
mid-channel. 

Pilots may be procured for vessels, when bound toward the China seas, 
at Penang ; and at Singapore when their course is in an opposite direction. 
The Mississippi took no pilot, as time could not be spared for communicating 
with Penang ; and, in fact, with good charts and a careful look-out, together 
with proper precautions in anchoring when necessary, a pilot is of little 



148 





EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 



further service than to identify the names of headlands and islands, and to 
explain the tides and currents. Indeed, by trusting too much to the pilots, 
who are mostly irresponsible natives, ships may fall into dangers which the 
experience and prudence of their captains, if left to their own judgments, 
would avoid. In passing through the straits, the Mississippi met H. B. M. 
ship Cleopatra, towed by a small war steamer, bound in an opposite direc- 
tion. The senior English ship, on coming near, honored the broad pendant 
of the Commodore with a salute ; which compliment was promptly responded 
to by an equal number of guns. 

It is a fact worthy of remark, that the usual vertical rise and fail of the 
tides in the Straits of Malacca is from twelve to fourteen feet, while in other 
parts of the world, in the same latitude, there is scarcely any variation. The 
tides at Singapore correspond, in this respect, with those in the Straits. 

On entering from the Straits of Malacca into what is called the Straits 
of Singapore, the islands became numerous and the passages consequently 
various and intricate ; but the directions given by Horsburgh are so full and 
explicit, that by a strict observance of them, together with proper vigilance 
and judgment, the lead being kept in constant use and the anchor always 
in readiness, there is no very great danger of touching. 

With a judicious regard to these precautions, the Mississippi made her 
way securely through all the intricacies of the course, and finally, on the 
25th of March, came to anchor in the port of Singapore 




CHAPTER V. 



Singapore. — Its Great Commerce. — Population. — Eapid Increase. — Hospitality of a Wealthy Chinese Mer- 
chant. — Importance of Singapore to England. — Coal Depot at Singapore. — Physical Aspect of the Coun- 
try. — Agricultural Products.— Animals.— Ferocity of the Tiger.— Water Buffalo.— Passage from Singa- 
pore to Hong Kong.— Currents, Eocks, Tides. — Chinese fishing boats. — Arrival at Hong Kong. — 
Finding there sloops-of-war Saragota and Plymouth and store-ship Supply.— Susquehanna gone to 
Shanghae. — Disappointment of the Commodore. — Condition and prosperity of Hong Kong. — Eun to 
Macao, thence to Whampoa on Canton Eiver. — Navigation of the Eiver. — First impressions made by 
the City. — Disappointed Expectations. — Hospitality of American Consul at Canton. — The Hongs or 
Factories. — Streets in Canton. — Proper name of the City. — Bocca Tigris. — Chinese Forts. — Pirates on 
the Eiver. — Attempt to rob one of the Officers. — Canton Market Place. — Trade of Canton with Europe 
and America. 

HE port of Singapore is a great 
resort for ships of all nations. 
Vessels from China, Siam, Ma- 
laya, Sumatra, and the various 
commercial countries of Europe 
and America, are to he seen an- 
chored together at the same time. 
The products of these different 
parts of the world are all to be 
found in Singapore, brought 
thither for reciprocal exchange. 
The policy which has made Sin- 
gapore a free port has been fully justified by the prosperous result. Its com- 
merce, being entirely unshackled, flourishes even beyond the most sanguine 
anticipations of those enlightened and enterprising men who but a few years 
ago established Singapore as a free port. 

Nothwithstanding the restricted productions of the place, which could do 
no more than supply business for the scant trade of a few vessels, Singapore 
has been, by the liberal policy pursued, elevated to the imposing position of 
a great commercial mart. Its trade embraces China, India, and the archipel- 
agos of the oriental seas, Australia, Europe and America. Nearly the whole 
world of commerce seeks, in a greater or less degree, its ever crowded har- 
bor. 

The commerce with China is very considerable, and is carried on by means 




150 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

of Chinese vessels. The junks come down from the China seas with the north- 
east moonsoon, and remain in port, retailing their cargoes of teas, silks, and 
other products, until the southwest moonsoon is fairly set in, when they re- 
turn to prepare for another voyage, and thus keep up a succession of periodical 
trading visits. They bring large numbers of enterprising Chinese emigrants, 
together with abundant supplies of dollars, teas, silks, chinaware, tobacco, 
cassia, nankeens, gold thread, and the thousand " nicknackeries " of cunning 
invention for which Chinese ingenuity is famous. They take back the perni- 
cious opium, edible birds' nests, and various articles of European manufac- 
ture. 

The town of Singapore is built upon an island, separated from the Malay 
peninsula by a narrow and scarcely navigable strait. The ancient capital of 
the Malayan Kingdom, or, as it was sometimes called, the Kingdom of Ma- 
lacca, formerly stood upon the site of the present town. This old city was 
built in the twelfth century, and conquered by a chief from Java, who trans- 
ferred the royal residence to Malacca. From that period its population and 
wealth gradually declined, so that in 1819, when the English took possession, 
there were but few vestiges of the former city, which indeed had become but 
a haunt for pirates, where, as well as in the neighboring islands and passages, 
they found a secure retreat from the vessels of the English and the Dutch 
sent in pursuit of them. The natives still offer for sale models of the various 
descriptions of the Malay war, pirate, and sailing proas ; and most of them 
present exceedingly beautiful specimens of graceful form. So much was the 
Commodore struck with the beauty of the model of the sailing proa that he 
purposed sending one home to the New York yacht club. 

The town bears all the appearance of being in a most prosperous condi- 
tion ; its port, as we have said, is always crowded with shipping, and its tra- 
ders are thriving and wealthy. Marine storehouses are seen throughout the 
place, but chiefly along the front of the harbor and upon the quay. The 
principal merchants occupy commodious and tasteful residences, built front- 
ing the bay. There is a striking contrast in the dwellings of those who have 
settled in this thriving place, between the elegant and convenient town and 
country houses of the colonial ofl&cials and merchants, and the ill ventilated 
and filthy domiciles of the Chinese, or the frail tenements of the IMalays. 
The latter ordinarily select some marshy ground in the suburbs, near a road 
or pathway, and rear upon piles their wooden houses, the only entrance to 
which is by means of temporary bridges, often constructed of a single plank. 

The prosperity of Singapore, so apparent even to the casual observer, is 
mainly to be attributed to the sagacious and energetic Sir Stamford Eaffles, 
who pursued with untiring zeal, in spite of the opposition of many in high- 
er authority, his determined purpose of carrying out his favorite projects 
of policy in the administration of the colony. 

The population at the period of the Mississippi's visit was estimated at 



POPULATION OF SINGAPORE. 151 

eighty thousand, a number which shows a very rapid increase since it fell 
into the possession of the British, at which time there were scarce two 
hundred on the whole island of Singapore. The inhabitants are made up 
of Jews, Chinese, Arabs, Malays, and natives of the neighboring countries. 
The Europeans count the least, and the Chinese the largest number ; of 
these last it was stated that there are no less than sixty thousand, who 
are the artisans, fishermen, laborers, and small dealers of the place; an 
industrious class, to which the colony is indebted for much of its trading 
activity. 

These various people who inhabit Singapore retain their national habits 
and customs, and their peculiar modes of worship. The Chinese lets 
grow his tail, smokes his opium, and offers incense to Joss ; the Arab sports 
his turban, invokes the name of the prophet, and prostrates himself within 
the mosque, while the European shaves his beard, drinks London porter, and 
takes his seat in the church pew. Most of the different nations have their 
places of worship ; there are Chinese temples and Mahommedan mosques, 
as well as Christian Churches. A curious confusion of religions seems to 
have resulted from the intermingling of sects, as may be inferred from what 
was seen by the Commodore on a visit to a Chinese temple. In one of the 
recesses of the place the devil was represented in human form, but of 
exceedingly hideous physiognomy, while in front of him was placed an 
image of the virgin and child. This was certainly a very strange assort- 
ment of company, and naturally set the Commodore to conjecturing as to 
what could possibly have brought together such very opposite characters ; 
whether the intention was to represent the mother and child as at the mercy 
of the devil, or the reverse, was not very clear, although, from the decided- 
ly uncomfortable expression of his satanic majesty's face, it might be 
inferred that he was less at his ease than any of the company, and quite out 
of his element. It was, however, concluded that the bringing of Christian 
personages into a Chinese temple was in some way connected with the early 
introduction of the Romish religion by the Portuguese missionaries. 

The stay of the Mississippi at Singapore was so short that there was but 
little opportunity to see much of the European society. Visits and salutes 
were exchanged with the acting governor and with the commander of the 
military forces ; these, together with some official business transacted with the 
United States consul, constituted the extent of the Commodore's intercourse 
with the European residents. With, however, a Chinese merchant, who 
seemed to be imbued with the true spirit of hospitality, many of the officers 
of the ship formed an agreeable acquaintance, and were hospitably enter- 
tained at his house. This gentleman's name is Whampoa, a man of cour- 
teous bearing and great intelligence, and who had made considerable pro- 
gress in the English language, which he spoke with some fluency. His 
country residence was the most beautiful on the island. The house was 



152 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

large, commodious, and tastefully furnished, and its rooms were filled with 
objects of curiosity and vertu. Surrounding the dwelling were extensive 
pleasure grounds and plantations, on which the various productions of the 
island, the useful as well as ornamental, were cultivated to great perfection. 
There were collections of animals and rare birds, among which were the 
cassowary and crowned pigeon from New Guinea, and a singular breed of 
perfectly white pea-fowl. The residence of the hospitable Whampoa, Tvhere 
the Commodore dined and spent the night, was surrounded by all that could 
delight the eye, or add to the enjoyment of life. Among other luxurious 
appanages of the establishment, there was a beautiful white Arabian horse, 
kept by Whampoa for his own especial use under the saddle, and the Com- 
modore was very much struck by its symmetry of form, purity of color, and 
excellence of temper, for it was as docile as a lamb. 

In a military and geographical point of view, Singapore is of great 
importance to England. By means of it, and with an effective naval force, 
this entrance to the China seas may be commanded. Its position is vastly 
advantageous in a commercial point of view, from which it has become an 
entrepot for the neighboring kingdoms of Sumatra, Borneo, Siam, Cambo- 
dia, and Cochin China. 

To Sir Stamford Baffles, who proved himself a master spirit in every 
enterprise he undertook, the British government and the East India Compa- 
ny are indebted for this valuable acquisition, and there was, it must be con- 
fessed, some show of equity in his mode of proceeding. Baffles actually 
purchased from the Bajah of Jahore and Singapore the right of sovereignty 
over the island and its dependencies for a stipulated sum and an annual pen- 
sion, and it is believed that the payments have been regularly made. This 
is an example which has been very rare among the European governments, 
who have generally seized violently upon the finest countries without scru- 
ple, and subjected the inhabitants to political, if not to social, servitude. 
The Bajah had reason to pride himself upon his bargain with Baffles, when 
he reflected how much better he had been treated than his royal ancestors, 
who had been driven from their homes and despoiled of their possessions by 
the former European invaders. 

The present Bajah, with his numerous wives and children occupy a 
native village about a mile from the English town. The Commodore did not 
see him, but his son, a fine intelligent youth, came on board the ship to pay 
his respects. His father probably thought his dignity called for the first 
visit from the Commodore, which, however, was prevented by reason of 
engagements. 

As a stopping place and depot for coal, Singapore is of great importance 
to the English mail-steamers. The wealthy and enterprising Oriental Steam 
Navigation Company have erected at New Harbor, about two and a half 
miles from the town, a magnificent depot, comprising wharves, coal-sheds^ 



SINGAPOKE. 153 

storehouses, workshops, and other buildings, such as would do credit to an;y 
English colonial establishment ; and this is no slight praise. Singapore is in 
the course of the regular mail route between India, China, Australia, and 
Europe. There is a constant postal communication, by means of the English 
and one or more Dutch steamers, with Hong Kong, Penang, Batavia, 
Shanghai, Calcutta, Madras, Bengal, Bombay, Ceylon, the Mauritius, Cape 
of Good Hope, and, by the Bed Sea, with Europe and America. 

Supplies of most kinds required by vessels can be obtained at fair prices 
in the port of Singapore. The water is good, and is supplied from tanks, 
under the supervision of an official of the place, the master attendant. 
There was not a pound of coal, however, to be purchased at Singapore, and 
there was reason to fear that the Mississippi would be deprived of her 
necessary supplies. It was not practicable to make any arrangement with 
the Labuan Company, for the whole produce of the mines under their con- 
trol was exhausted by the Oriental and Pacific Company, with which a con- 
tract existed for a supply of one thousand tons per month. Fortunately for 
the Mississippi, however, the stock of the last-named company at Hong 
Kong was falling short, and, as it was difficult to procure vessels to transport 
an additional supply, the agent of the company at Singapore agreed to lend 
the Commodore two hundred and thirty tons, provided it would be returned 
at Hong Kong By this arrangement both parties were accommodated, the 
Mississippi obtaining her necessary supply at Singapore, and the company 
securing what they wanted at their principal Chinese depot, without the ex- 
pense of its conveyance. 

The chief articles of export from Singapore are tin, nutmegs, sugar, drugs, 
tortoise shell, and some minor commodities, the product of the neighboring 
countries. The British settlement of Singapore embraces not only the 
island of that name, but a number of smaller ones scattered about in the 
neighboring seas. The main island, Singapore, is about twenty-five miles 
long, and fifteen in breadth, containing an estimated area of two hundred 
and seventy-five square miles. Inland, the surface of the country is diver- 
sified with not very lofty hills and shallow valleys, while the sea shore is low 
and overgrown with mangroves, and occasionally broken by the entrances of 
salt creeks, which, penetrating sometimes to the extent of six or seven miles, 
overflow their banks, and convert the neighboring soil into marsh. 

"When the English first obtained possession of Singapore, the island was 
covered with a forest, and entirely without cultivation. Now in the neigh- 
borhood of the town, and extending more or less into the interior, there are 
considerable plantations, which have been chiefly cultivated by the indus- 
trious immigrants from China. Eice, coff'ee, sugar, and other agricultural 
productions of the warmer latitudes are obtained, but the supply is not suffi- 
cient for the consumption of the island. The tropical fruits grow readily, 
among which the mangusteen reaches great perfection, although its taste did 



154 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

not equal the anticipations formed from the boasted deliciousness of its 
flavor. The fruit, however, was not in full season during the ship's stay, 
and it may possibly not have reached the height of its excellence. The 
nutmeg is cultivated with considerable success, as well as the cocoa-nut, 
orange, and other tropical fruits. 

Various European animals have been introduced into the island. The 
horse in use is a stumpy, fiery little creature, wonderfully strong for its size. 
It is generally harnessed to a light carriage which is in common use on the 
island, and may be hired in the streets of the town at a moderate price for 
the day. The driver seldom takes his seat upon the box, but runs at the 
head of his horse, and keeps up a speed in company with the animal of six, 
and sometimes even seven or eight miles an hour. This plan suggests a good 
hint for the prevention of cruelty to animals, as it has the effect of securing 
a humane consideration for the beast, which is not likely to be over driven, 
when for every step it takes its driver takes two, and is thus forcibly 
reminded of a fellow feeling which cannot fail to make him " wondrous 
kind." 

The native animals are generally the same as those of the adjacent 
peninsula, from which many of them migrate. The tigers especially en- 
tertain a great partiality for Singapore, and resort there in great cumbers 
by swimming across the strait which separates the main land from the island. 
These are the genuine animals, which have no hesitation in pouncing upon a 
passing traveller, or snatching up and making a meal of any unfortunate 
Chinaman or native who may happen to be in the jungle, busy in cutting 
wood, clearing land for the rice plantations, or otherwise occupied. It was 
stated on the best authority that not a day passes without the destruction 
of one human being at least by these ferocious beasts. The Commodore was 
at first somewhat disposed to be incredulous of this statement, but as the 
acting governor and commander of the forces both confirmed it, he could no 
longer hesitate to accept it as truth. He was told by them that so much of 
an every day occurrence was this fatality, that many of the cases were not 
reported, in order to avoid the trouble and expense of a coroner's inquest, 
which the laws require. " Death by tiger," however, is a verdict that might 
be rendered daily were the legal formalities complied with. 

It is said, and probably with truth, that the tiger, after he has once 
tasted of human flesh, becomes so fond of it that he prefers its flavor to that 
of his ordinary venison or wild boar, and will make every effort to obtain a 
supply of his favorite food. It is this intense longing for human flesh which 
makes the tiger so very dangerous to the inhabitants of Singapore, especially 
to the poor Malay or Chinese who may be obliged to expose himself in the 
jungle and the forest. It was said, too, that the animal showed decided 
preference for a Chinaman. 

Nor do these stories of the tiger seem very wonderful, when the fact is 



SINGAPORE. 1 5.5 

well established, that those savages who are addicted to cannibalism become 
passionately fond of their horribly unnatural food. There is a tribe of 
Malays, called Battas, who, like their fellow Malay tigers, are said by Sir 
Stamford Raffles to eat one another, and to prefer such food to any other. 
Nor are they to be classed entirely among barbarians, for these Battas can 
read and write, and have codes of laws of great antiquity ; and yet, accord- 
ing to the authority just named, not less than from sixty to a hundred 
Battas are eaten annually, even during a time of peace. 

In addition to the tigers there are deer and wild boars found upon the 
island, and several varieties of smaller animals, the monkey, the wild hog 
or peccary, the porcupine and the sloth. Birds abound, and among them are 
some of great beauty. Serpents are not very numerous, but among them is 
the venomous cobra. A singular animal, called the water buffalo, was more 
particularly observed at Singapore. It approaches in size to the ox of our 
country, and like it is used as an animal for draught, being harnessed to the 
shafts of a cart and guided by a driver, who holds a rope which is fastened 
to a ring or thong passed through the cartilage which divides the nostrils of 
the animal. The skin of this beast is rough, and not unlike that of the 
rhinoceros, and though the water buffalo has somewhat the general appear- 
ance of the ox, its head is altogether different. Notwithstanding the seeming 
thickness and toughness of its hide, it suffers greatly from the flies, and to 
avoid them keeps, except during feeding time, in the water ; hence, probably, 
its name. 

Inquiries were made about two remarkable inhabitants of the waters 
about Malacca and Sumatra, described by Raffles : the sailing fish, called 
by the natives ikan layer ^ and the duyong, mentioned by Valentin^ and so 
long talked of as the mermaid ; but the Commodore was told by the inhabi- 
tants of Singapore that these fish had become very scarce, if not entirely 
extinct. Shells collected upon the adjacent coasts and along the Straits of 
Malacca are brought in large quantities to Singapore for sale, and some ex- 
cellent specimens were obtained. 

The various people who inhabit Sumatra, the Malayan peninsula, and 
the numerous islands in the adjacent seas, are all of the Malay family. 
This race is widely distributed, not only over the Indian archipelago, but 
throughout the South Sea islands, as it is generally conceded that the natives 
of the latter are of the same origin as the former. Analogous physical 
characteristics, customs and languages, would seem to prove this relation- 
ship. 

The Mississippi having taken on board the necessary supplies of fuel, 
left Singapore on the 29th of March. The ship proceeded through the 
middle channel, passing near a light-house erected on the rock called " Pedra 
Branca," This course was taken with the view of running up on the Cochin 
China and Hainan shores. It is not necessary to say much in regard to the 



156 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

navigation of the Cliina sea, since so much has already been published on 
the subject. It may, however, be stated in general terms, that nearly the 
whole expanse of sea from Borneo and Palawan across to Cochin China is 
rendered dangerous by numerous coral reefs, banks and islands. Many of 
these banks and reefs are below the surface of the sea, and although the hydro- 
grapical surveys may have truthfully stated their depths when they were 
taken, and reported a sufficiency of water for vessels to pass, it must not be 
forgotten that such, is the rapdity with which those little architects, the 
coral zoophites, build up these foundations of future islands, that the work 
of a few years may materially change the character and depth of the sound- 
ings. With such obstructions the China sea cannot be navigated without 
danger, and especially in stormy weatlier. Notwithstanding, thousands of 
vessels go annually through its various passages in safety, while a disaster 
occurs now and then only. 

The surface currents are influenced by the prevailing winds, but the tides, 
as in other parts of the world, are governed by some mysterious laws which 
the wisdom of man has not yet entirely :fethomed. The vertical rise and 
fall of the tide upon the coast of Cochin China varies from six to fourteen 
feet, and the periods and duration of the ebb and flood are by no means 
regular. In latitude 12°, on the same shore, there is but one tide in the 
course of twenty-four hours. It has been said that the tides in the tropics 
rise and fall very little. Although it is granted that in high latitudes the 
perpendicular flow and ebb is generally greater than in low, still there are 
many examples of considerable tides in the latter. At the head of the Gulf 
of Cambay, in latitude 22°, Horsburg states that the perpendicular depth of 
the rise and fall of the tides is from thirty to thirty-six feet at the full and 
change of the moon. So also, according to the same authority, in Surat 
road, it is from twenty to twenty-one feet, and from fifteen to seventeen in 
Bombay harbor. Again, in the Grulf of Martaban, which is far within the 
tropics, the rise and fall of the tide, at the full and change of the moon, is 
twenty-three and twenty-four feet, and off Rangoon bar about twenty or 
twenty-one feet. In Gasper straits, within 2^° of the equator, there is 
occasionally, from local causes, a rise and fall of sixteen or seventeen feet 
on the spring tide, but this is rare in places so near the equator. These 
instances, all from Horsburg, show that very considerable tides occur within 
the tropics. 

The observation of the Commodore in regard to the single tide in 
twenty-four hours, on the shore of Cochin China, is paralleled by analogous 
instances, also reported by Horsburg, who remarks : " Although in most 
places the tide ebbs and flows twice in every twenty-four hours, this is not 
universally the case within the tropics ; for among several of the eastern islands 
the tide flows only once in twenty-four hours." In many places, far beyond 
the tropics, the tide likewise flows only once in twenty-four hours, particularly 



AEEIVAL AT HONG KONG. 157 

on the southern coast of Van Dieman's land ; but at Port Dalrymple, on the 
north coast, the tide flows twice in twenty-four hours. The zodiacal lights 
glowed in brilliant radiations almost every morning and evening during the 
time the Mississippi was in the equatorial latitudes; and the chaplain, (Mr. 
Jones,) who made this matter a subject of especial notice and study, had a 
good opportunity of continuing his observations upon the phenomena of this 
remarkable appearance. 

On the morning of the 6th of April, as the ship was proceeding on her 
course, vast numbers of fishing boats were descried as far as the eye could 
reach. No less than two hundred and sixty-nine of these little craft were 
counted, at one time, from the poop. They were sailing in couples, about 
nin|(ty fathoms apart, before the wind, with a net extended between each 
two. They were curiously rigged, having square sails set upon two or three 
masts, which had, at a distance, somewhat the appearance of courses and 
topsails, which they hoisted and lowered as they desired to graduate the rate 
of sailing, in order to keep way with their consorts. These vessels were 
engaged in taking a small fish similar to the sardine of the Mediterranean, 
and the same mode of netting them is pursued in both localities. 

The appearance of these craft was a sure indication of the proximity of 
laud, and accordingly, at half past ten in the morning, it was sighted. The 
ship continuing her course toward the roadstead of Macao, was anchored 
at dark under the Ladrones. On the following morning she proceeded to 
Macao roads, and after a communication with the shore, the course was con- 
tinued on to Hong Kong, where she finally came to anchor about sunset of 
the same day. 

Here were found the sloops-of-war Plymouth and Saratoga, and the 
store-ship Supply ; the two former of which, as the Mississippi let go her 
anchor, fired the usual salute, which was duly returned from the guns of the 
Mississippi; the Susquehanna, however, was nowhere to be seen. This 
vessel had been designated by the government as the flag-ship of the Com- 
modore, who, much to his surprise and disappointment, found that she had 
sailed a fortnight previously for Shanghai, having on board the United States 
commissioner to China, the Honorable Mr. Marshall, as well as Dr. Parker, 
the secretary of legation, and Mr. Forbes, the United States consul at Can- 
ton, all of whom the Commodore desired particularly to see, before sailing 
for Japan. No other course was left to him therefore, but to despatch the 
Plymouth to the same port, with instructions to Commander Buchanan of 
the Susquehanna to await there the Commodore's arrival in the Mississippi, 
which he meant should follow the Susquehanna as soon as she could be pre- 
pared for the northern cruise ; and fortunately Shanghai was at no great 
distance out of the route to Japan. 

On the following day the customary interchange of salutes was made 
with the forts and the foreign vessels of war in port, and this was succeeded 



158 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

by an exchange of personal courtesies among the officers of the various 
nations represented. With Commodore Roquemausel, of the French navy, 
particularly, who had his pennant on hoard the frigate Capricieuse, the 
Commodore enjoyed a very agreeable intercourse, both official and personal. 
The English admiral. Sir F. Pellew, was absent. It is unnecessary to note, 
on every occasion, the courtesies that American officers invariably receive from 
the British authorities abroad, civil, naval, and military. " In no instance, " 
remarks the Commodore, " during a long service in foreign countries, have 
I experienced any want of hospitable attention ; and, in fact, the govern- 
ments of all nations, with the exception of that of the United States, 
furnish the means for public entertainments by ample allowance of * table 
money, ' and it thus becomes a duty, as it is doubtless the pleasure, of t^ese 
officials to expend it hospitably." 

The stay of the Mississippi was but short at Hong Kong ; long enough, 
however, to make apparent every sign of commercial prosperity, although 
the place is not very attractive to visitors. There is no picturesque beauty 
in the appearance of the town, albeit some travellers have described it in 
glowing colors. It is a picture of busy activity ; the shore is lined with 
Chinese boats, the harbor is crowded with the shipping of all nations, and 
the toiling Chinese are kept at work in the roads, or in other labors required 
by this progressive place. When the English took possession of the island 
of Hong Kong, in 1841, there was but a bleak and barren hill-side where 
there now stands the city of Victoria. The population of the place now 
amounts to no less than 14,671, and while its commercial warehouses, its 
docks and piers, and its fleet of traders, give evidence of its material pros- 
perity, its social, intellectual, and religious progress are proved by its club- 
houses, reading-rooms, schools, and churches. Heathenism has also its visible 
signs. The Chinese have three temples, and the Mahommedans a mosque at 
Hong Kong. 

The island rises at the north in a range of mountains, the base of which 
terminates near the sea, leaving a narrrow edge, along which the town of 
Victoria extends for two or three miles. There is a large trade in opium 
between India and Hong Kong, it being imported into the latter place, and 
thence smuggled into China along the coast. 

There is no very extensive agricultural culture at Hong Kong, as the 
land for the most part is rocky, and of little fertility. On the southern part 
of the island, however, the soil is somewhat more favorable than that on the 
northern, and it contains a single valley which is tolerably productive. 
There is an abundance of excellent water. The climate is hot, and as the 
alternations of rain and heat keep up an active decomposition in the marshy 
districts of the island, they render it quite unwholesome. The southern side 
of Hong Kong is the more healthful, as it is refreshed and purified by the 




BARBEE BOY, HONG KONG. 



CANTON. 159 

southwestern monsoon, but being destitute of good harbors, tlie English were 
obliged to fix their settlement on the north. 

The laboring class and the small traders are chiefly Chinese, who are 
ever on the alert for gain. Their bazaars invite the passing stranger on 
every street, and the itinerant artisans go busily tramping in their daily 
routine. There are many striking figures among them, with their peculiar 
costumes and novel implements of labor. Our artist caught a vivid impres- 
sion of the Hong Kong barber boy. 

On leaving Hong Kong, the Mississippi went to Macao, and thence to 
Whampoa, on the Canton river, where she anchored. In this river there 
are certain bars, and it is necessary not only to take a pilot, but to employ 
small Chinese boats, which are stationed at the sides of the crooked channel, 
and on the bars alluded to, as guides. As the boats receive a dollar each 
for this service, they are called *' dollar boats." Whampoa, which is the 
anchorage for all large vessels whose business is with Canton, is on the river, 
about twelve miles from that city. The pagoda here is a marked object, and 
however it may be venerated by the Chinese, on religious grounds, is no less 
regarded for its usefulness as a land mark by foreign vessels, for they steer 
and anchor by its bearings. 

The passage to Canton is made in boats, and is by no means very agree- 
able. The Commodore was sadly disappointed in the appearance of the 
stream, which he describes as muddy and shallow, with scarcely a hut upon 
its banks until the city is nearly reached ; and then swarms of floating habi- 
tations are seen moored to the banks, five or six tiers deep, and occupied by 
a wretched, half clad people. Through these two lines of receptacles of pov- 
erty and filth which thus border the stream, you pass to the mercantile factory, 
the residence of most of the foreign merchants, and the spot where the 
stranger lands. Hence he is conducted to the houses of those to whom he 
bears letters of introduction, where he is hospitably received and takes up 
his lodging, as there are no comfortable places of public entertainment in 
this quarter. 

The first impression made by Canton was one of decided disappointment. 
Perhaps too much had been anticipated, but from the glowing descriptions 
the Commodore had read of the place, he had imagined that it would be 
more striking to a stranger than in his case it proved to be. He expected 
to behold myriads of boats, decked with gay banners, and moving with cheer- 
ful activity in all directions. His fancy had sketched a pleasing picture of 
beautiful floating domiciles, moored under the banks of the river, and inhab- 
ited by a hundred thousand people in variegated costume ; he recalled to 
memory the stories of the lofty pagodas, lifting roof above roof, the delightful 
residences expanding their spacious quarters from terrace to terrace, and 
the snug cottages with the picturesque bridges and the comfortable Chinaman 
under the shade of a willow, with nothing to do but fish, of all which we 



ICO EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

have been accustomed to read, and pictures of which served to amuse us in 
our childhood. 

But the sketches of imaginative boyhood were, in this as in so many 
other instances, dispelled by the sober realities of maturer years. There was 
nothing of all this beautiful picture of crowded and happy life. There 
were, indeed, boats and people, pagodas and cottages, bridges and trees ; 
but there were also filth and noise, poverty and misery, lying and roguery, 
and, in. short, anything but a picture of quiet content and Arcadian sim- 
plicity. 

On the visit of the Commodore to Canton, he, together with several of 
his officers, was accommodated at the house of Mr. Forbes, the consul of the 
United States, and the head of the firm of Eussell & Co. Mr. Forbes was 
absent at the time, but the hospitalities of his establishment were most 
freely dispensed by one of his partners, Mr. Spooner. So well known was 
this establishment, and so highly appreciated were its proprietors by the 
Chinese, that all that was necessary in making a purchase in the city, was 
simply to direct the shopkeeper to send the article to the house of Mr. 
Forbes, and there never was any hesitation in assenting at once. The same 
may be said indeed of all the American houses, with respect both to hospi- 
tality and the confidence of the Chinese. 

The comparatively small space occupied by the foreigners on the river 
side is, notwithstanding its limited extent, quite a pleasant spot. The whole 
quarter contains but about four acres. The foreign merchants occupy the 
large buildings in the rear as places of business and abode, while the front, 
which includes a half of the whole area, is beautifully laid out as a garden, 
with an English church in the centre, and the flags of different nations float- 
ing from tall poles planted in various spots. The grounds are arranged with 
walks, and ornamented with shrubbery and flowering plants, presenting a 
delightful resort in the freshness of the morning or the cool of the evening. 
The stranger is struck with the peculiar aspect of the place, when on one 
side, in proximity to low, dingy, Chinese houses, buildings of European 
structure rise to the height of three or four stories, while on the other, the 
river is densely populous with the inhabited boats. The foreigners term 
their residences and places of business factories, but the natives designate 
them as HongSy which is the usual Chinese word for a commercial establish- 
ment or warehouse. 

Although there are but few of the larger or public buildings in the 
foreign quarter, which is but a suburb of the city, there are all the ordinary 
varieties of streets, houses, and bazaars. Foreigners generally confine their 
visits to that part adjacent to the garden before mentioned, through which 
Old and New China streets run. 

The only hotel in the place, fre {uented by Europeans and Americans, is 
near the latter street, and is quite inferior. It is (as has been intimated) 



CANTON. 161 

the hospitable practice of the foreign merchants to invite strangers to their 
princely establishments, where a generous profusion and a warm welcome are 
extended to the visitor. In addition to Old and New China streets, there 
is, hard by, a narrow, filthy alley, not inappropriately called Hog lane, and 
filled with the most abandoned portion of the people, who minister to the 
vicious appetites of the foreign sailors, supplying them with wretched grog 
and other dangerous stimulants. 

There are no drives or walks leading directly into the country from the 
foreign quarter ; the residents are, therefore, limited to the river, where, in 
the evening, they exercise themselves in rowing their swift little boats. On 
the opposite side of the river, however, on the island of Honan, there is a 
walk, extending a mile or more, to a Buddhist temple ; but there is little 
that is attractive in the surrounding country, and nothing peculiar about 
the temple, which is similar to the other joss houses. On a visit which was 
made to this spot by one of the officers of the expedition, a drove of sacred 
pigs were seen in their sacred styes, and they seemed to flourish exceedingly, 
for they were so fat that they could not stand. It was something of a cu- 
riosity, (though somewhat saddening in the reflections it occasioned,) to 
behold this sanctified pork, and the reverence with which it was worshipped. 

Canton is the capital of the province of Kuan-tong, from which the name 
given to the city by Europeans has been corrupted. It is falsely applied, for 
it is the name of the province only, as we have just said ; that of the city 
is Kuang-chow-foo. The city is built on two rivers, the Choo-Keang, or 
Pearl, and the Pi-Keang, which is a branch of the former. The mouth of 
the Choo-Keang, Pearl, or Canton river, is called the Bocca Tigris. It de- 
rives this name from the supposed resemblance of the hill-tops, on Great 
Tiger Island, to the outline of a tiger's head. Although the resemblance is 
not at first very striking, it becomes quite obvious after examination. The 
river is guarded at its mouth, and at several points on its banks, by Chinese 
forts, which, with their white-washed walls and general pacific aspect, do not 
appear very formidable. The view, however, is pleasing, particularly at the 
Bocca Tigris, where the forts could be seen stretching their long white walls 
from the base to the summits of the hills. On one side is seen the " Dragon's 
Cave," and on the other the " Girl's Shoe," and various other fortifications 
with fanciful names ; and though some of them are admirably situated, they 
are all of a structure which prove them to be more remarkable for show 
than for solid utility. 

The river swarms with pirates, the fishermen occasionally becoming their 
allies, and they carry on their depredations unchecked in the very teeth of 
the forts. When the pirates fail of falling in with strangers whom they dare 
venture to rob, they fall out with each other, and murder and plunder their 
friends with as little compunction as if they were strangers. In the passage 
of the Mississippi from Macao to Whampoa, the anchorage on the Canton 
11 



162 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

river, one of the two Chinese boats in tow was swamped by bad steering, 
whereupon the other, in fear of a similar catastrophe, cast off and attempted 
to proceed up the river. The owner, who happened to be on board the 
steamer, expressed his fears that she would be overhauled by pirates before 
her arrival at Whampoa ; nor were his fears groundless ; she was boarded 
and robbed a few hours only after she had lost sight of the Mississippi. 
While the steamer was at Hong Kong several piracies were committed almost 
under the guns of the vessels-of-war. As for the land pirates, they are to 
the full as expert at picking and stealing as the most accomplished thieves 
and pickpockets of New York or London. One of the lieutenants of the 
Mississippi, at early twilight one evening, just as he was stepping into a hired 
boat to return to the ship, was seized amid a crowd of people, and an 
attempt was made to pull his watch from his fob ; fortunately his Pick- 
wickian rotundity of form saved the watch, but the chain was carried off in 
triumph. 

From the mouth of the river to Canton the distance is about thirty- two 
miles, but the large vessels do not proceed further than the anchorage at 
Whampoa, ten miles below the foreign quarter of the city, with which com- 
munication is kept up by boats. The country adjacent to Canton is inter- 
sected with rivers and creeks, in which fish abound, and a plentiful market is 
daily open in the city. 

The alluvial ground south of the city is highly cultivated with rice fields 
and gardens. The higher ground to the north and east is wooded with firs 
and other trees. A wall encloses a portion of the city, which is subdivided 
by another wall running from east to west. North of the latter is that part 
called the inner or old city, which is inhabited chiefly by the dominant Tar- 
tar families, while to the south we find the new or outer city, where the 
inhabitants are mostly composed of the descendants of the original Chinese 
population. The streets are narrow, tortuous, and winding, like a cork- 
screw, but thronged by an immense population, and so very contracted that 
there is often barely room for two sedan chairs, the only vehicles allowed, to 
pass each other. 

The importance of Canton results from its being the emporium of the 
great trade of Europe and America with China; the annual amount of which 
was, some years ago, estimated at eighty millions of dollars, the principal 
part of which is under the control of the merchants of England and the 
United States. 



CHAPTER VI 



Hospitable treatment at Macao.— Usages of the foreign merchants toward isitors.— Depressed condition 
of Macao. — Description of the place. — Tanka boats, and girls "who manage them. — Cave of Camoens. — 
Departure of Mississippi from Macao.— Saratoga left to bring Mr. Williams the interpreter.— Difficulties 
of navigation from Hong Kong to the mouth of Tang-tse-Keang. — Entrance of the river dangerous. — 
Susquehanna, Plymouth, and Supply all aground.— Mississippi saved by the power of her engines 
only. — Description of Shanghai. — Its immense trade. — Cultivation of the country. — Population of the 
city, — Visit of the Commodore to the Governor of the city.— Chinese rebellion.— Its effects.— Ply- 
mouth left at Shanghai to protect American interests, — Departure for great Lew Chew. — Arrival of the 
squadron at the capital, Napha, the Saratoga having joined at the entrance to the harbor. 



N leaving Canton, Mr. Spooner, 
of the house of Kussell & Co., 
offered the Commodore the use 
of the magnificent residence at 
Macao belonging to that firm ; 
accordingly he, together with 
three of his officers, took np 
his quarters in their sumptuous 
dwelling. The Commodore and 
his company, thinking that they 
were to be their own providers, 
their caterer, one of the officers 
of the squadron, was very par- 
ticular in ordering the head ser- 
vant in charge of the establish- 
ment to procure this and that, and no sooner was a wish expressed than it 
was promptly attended to. Great, then, was the surprise, on the completion 
of the visit, to find that not a penny would be received beyond the ordinary 
grataity by that prince of major-domos. He said that his employers were 
always happy to have their house occupied by their friends, and he expressed 
a hope that the Commodore and his companions would not think of going 
elsewhere on their next visit to Macao. 

When a guest is once received into one of these hospitable mansions he 




164 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

finds himself quite at home, in the enjoyment of the most agreeable society; 
for it is a custom of the merchants of the East to extend to strangers of re 
spectability a hospitality that is quite unreserved. Such, indeed, is the free- 
dom of the guest that he has only to order whatever he may require and his 
demand is complied with at once. The master does not trouble himself about 
the matter, but he is, for the most part of the time, away about his business ; 
and the whole concern of the household devolves upon the major-domo, whose 
duty it is to satisfy every want. There is a very convenient official of these 
establishments, termed a comprador, whose vocation it is to pay all the bills 
accruing from the purchases and incidental expenses of the guests, who, how- 
ever, of course, refund what has been paid. 

While enjoying the luxury of these oriental establishments, one, in fact, 
might fancy himself in a well-organized French hotel, as he has only to ex- 
press a wish to have it gratified, were it not that he has nothing to pay in the 
former beyond the usual gratuities to servants, while in the latter he is 
mulcted roundly for every convenience. 

There is not much at present to interest the visitor at Macao, as it is but 
a ghost of its former self. There is almost a complete absence of trade or com- 
merce. The harbor is deserted, and the sumptuous dwellings and storehouses 
of the old merchants are comparatively empty, while the Portuguese who in- 
habit the place are but rarely seen, and seem listless and unoccupied. An 
occasional Parsee, in high crowned cap and snowy robe, a venerable merchant, 
and here and there a Jesuit priest, with his flock of youthful disciples, may be 
seen, but they are only as the decaying monuments of the past. 

At one time, however, the town of Macao was one of the most flourishing 
marts of the East. When the Portuguese obtained possession, in the latter 
part of the sixteenth century, they soon established it as the centre of a wide 
commerce with China and other oriental countries. Its origin is attributed 
to a few Portuguese merchants belonging to Lampacayo, who were allowed 
to resort there and establish some temporary huts for shelter and the drying 
of damaged goods. Hue, the Chinese traveller, gives a different accouut ; he 
states that the Portuguese were allowed to settle by the Emperor, in return 
for the signal service of capturing a famous pirate who had long ravaged the 
coasts. From an humble beginning, the settlement gradually arose to an im- 
posing position as a commercial place, for which it was greatly indebted to 
the monopoly it enjoyed of eastern commerce. It has, however, declined, 
and is now a place of very inconsiderable importance and trade. 

The town is situated upon a peninsula at the southward of the island of Ma- 
cao. It is sufficiently picturesque in appearance, built as it is upon the accliv- 
ities of the rising ground about the harbor, with its gay-looking white houses, 
which overhang the terraces that bound the shore aud look out upon the 
sea. The houses of the old merchants, though they now bear some appearance 
of neglect, yet attest, by the spaciousness of the apartments, and the luxu- 



TANK A GIRLS — CAVE OF CAMOENS. 165 

riousness of their appointments, the former opulence of the Portuguese tra- 
ders. The pleasant walks about the circuit of the neighboring hills and the 
Praya invite the visitor to strengthen himself in cheerful exercise. The dull 
look of the town is somewhat relieved in the summer time, when the foreign 
residents of Canton and Hong Kong resort there to bathe in the waters of 
Bishop's Bay, and to recreate in the enjoyment of the healthful sea air of the 
place. 

The harbor is not suitable for large vessels, which anchor in Macao roads, 
several miles from the town. It is, however, though destitute of every ap- 
pearance of commercial activity, always enlivened by the fleet of Tanka boats 
which pass, conveying passengers to and fro, between the land and the Can- 
ton and Hong Kong steamers. The Chinese damsels, in gay costume, as 
they scull their light craft upon the smooth and gently swelling surface of 
the bay, present a lively aspect, and as they are looked upon in the distance, 
from the verandahs above the Praya, which command a view of the bay, have 
a fairy-like appearance, which a nearer approach serves, however, to change 
into a more substantial and coarse reality. 

The Cave of Camoens, where the Portuguese poet is supposed to hav€ 
written a portion of his Lusiad, is a place of universal interest and resort at 
Macao. It is picturesquely situated upon the summit of a small hill, on the 
margin of the inner harbor. Large granite rocks are here gathered in a 
confused cluster, which form a natural cave, from the entrance of which 
there is a wide prospect of the surrounding country. The banians, the pa- 
goda, and other oriental trees unite their foliage and form a grove in which 
the rocky cave is embowered. Surrounding it are grounds cultivated with 
trees, creeping vines, and flowering shrubs, charmingly arranged by the bor- 
ders of winding paths, and upon the sides of the hills. Artificial terraces, 
ingeniously disposed, invite the visitor to the enjoyment of the view or to 
rest beneath the shade. 

Above the cave rises a rotunda, from which there is an enchanting 
prospect, and a marble monument, with a bronze bust and an inscription, 
here record the features, the genius, and virtue of Camoens, the poet. 

Camoens' visit to Macao was during his banishment from Portugal, in 
consequence of his pertinacious courtship of a lady of rank, whose parents 
did not aff'ect an alliance with the poet, who, although of a respectable fami- 
ly, was poor, and looked upon as an uncertain adventurer. In 1551, he 
proceeded to Groa, in India, where he again involved himself in trouble by 
writing his " Absurdities of India," and was banished to the Moluccas, and 
in the course of his exile he resorted frequently to Macao, which was a favo- 
rite residence of the poet. The cave was his chosen spot of retirement, where, 
in its " sweet retired solitude," he meditated his great work, the Lusiad. 
Camoens returned to Portugal, but only to live in misery and die in an 
hospital. 



166 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

The interior of the island of Macao, which is exclusively cultivated by 
the Chinese, yields a variety of vegetable productions, with which the town 
is supplied. The whole population is about 20,000, and of these, 13,000 
belong to the peninsula and town, whereof more than one-half the inhabitants 
are Chinese, and in the interior of the island this race compose the whole. 
The government of the town is in the hands of the Portuguese. The Portu- 
guese have a college, churches and various educational, benevolent and eccle- 
siastical institutions in Macao, where the Chinese also have their peculiar 
establishments and a temple. 

On the evening of April 28th, the Mississippi was again under weigh, leav- 
ing the Saratoga at Macao to await the arrival of Dr. S. W. Williams, of 
Canton, who had been appointed interpreter to the expedition. The course 
was now directed for Shanghai. 

The navigation of the coast of China, from Hong Kong to the mouth of 
the Yang-tse-Keang, is, at most seasons, difficult and perplexing. The fre- 
quent fogs and irregular tides and currents make it very annoying to those 
who are strangers to the navigation, when close in with the coast. Fortu- 
nately, however, vessels are always, when near the land, on anchoring ground, 
and although they are sometimes obliged to bring to, in situations exposed to 
winds from the sea, it is better to resort to the anchor than to drift blindly 
among groups of islands and reefs. If the weather be moderately clear, ves- 
sels may run from island to island, and thus navigate the coast with perfect 
safety and convenience, but the fogs which prevail at certain seasons scarcely 
allow of this advantage. During the passages of the Susquehanna and Mis- 
sissippi from Hong Kong to Shanghai neither had a meridian observation of 
the sun. 

The entrance to the Yang-tse-Keang, which leads to the commercial city 
of Shanghai, is obstructed on either side by shoals, which make it dangerous 
for vessels not having pilots. On the north side is a shoal called the North 
Sand, extending some six leagues westward from the main land, and on the 
south side is a parallel shoal, called the South Sand, projecting nearly as far 
from the shore on that side. The outer extremities of these shoals are be- 
yond sight of the main land. The channel between the two shoals may 
be estimated at about two miles in width, and there are no light-houses, 
boats, beacons, or buoys to indicate to strangers the entrance. A small islet 
called Gutzlaff Island is the only indication, for the navigator to direct his 
course. 

The rise and fall in the Yang-tse Keang averages about ten feet, and 
vessels are obliged to find their way hap-hazard into the channel, or perchance 
run upon one of the sister sands. Numbers of vessels resorting to Shanghai 
are lost, and still nothing has been done to remedy the evil. The Commo- 
dore was convinced, on visiting this river with the Mississippi, that until 
proper landmarks and beacons are established to indicate the entrance, it 




CAMOENS' CAVE, MAOAO. 




OAMOENS' CAVE, MACAO — IJEAK VIEW 



RIVER WAMPON — SHANGHAI. 167 

must be an unfit resort for any but the smaller vessels of a squadron, and 
consequently, an unfit place for a naval depot. The Susquehanna, the Ply- 
mouth, and the Supply, all grounded on going in, and the last remained 
thumping on the North Sand twenty-two hours, and was only saved from 
total loss by a providential change of wind. The Mississippi was carried, in 
the confusion of her pilot, out of the channel, but by good fortune did not 
stop, though she ran into nineteen feet water, one foot less than her draft, 
on the South Sand, but the power of the engines proved her salvation. The 
wealthy foreign merchants established at Shanghai, who are gathering a 
plentiful harvest from the increasing trade of the place, should contribute 
some of their thousands toward rendering the navigation less dangerous. It 
is but justice to say that a willingness has been expressed by eome of these 
gentlemen to subscribe liberally toward the accomplishment of the desired 
object, and, in fact, a boat had been ordered to be built in the United States, 
for the purpose of towing vessels up and down the river. 

Shanghai is built upon the left bank of the river Wampon, a branch of 
the Yang-tse-Keang. Near the mouth of the Wampon is the village of 
Woosung, the station where the foreign merchants formerly established their 
receiving ships, and the trading vessels their anchorage. Nothing can be 
less picturesque than the scenery of the banks of the Wampon in the approach 
to Shanghai. Monotonous flats of alluvial grounds stretch their wide ex 
pause on either side of the tortuous river. The fertile fields, rich with an 
abundant harvest of rice and grain, are encouraging prospects to the eye of 
the agriculturist, but the poetical observer is sadly disappointed in a view 
which presents a dead level of landscape, without a mountain, a hill-side, or 
even a tree to relieve the monotony. 

In front of the city of Shanghai, quays have been built out, and along 
them extend the storehouses and sumptuous residences of the foreign mer- 
chants, which have been constructed since the termination of the opium war 
with Great Britain. Here are to be found wide and well graded streets, 
beautiful gardens, and all the comforts and conveniences that are to be met 
with in any part of the world. Two Gothic churches, one belonging to the 
English, and the other to the American Protestant Episcopal mission, show 
an encouraging success of missionary effort, and excite the hopes of the 
Christian, for the progress of his faith. 

The Commodore was a guest, while at Shanghai, of the American firm of 
Eussell & Co., in whose splendid establishment, as at Macao, every want was 
satisfied. So complete are the conveniences of these residences, and so per- 
fect every appointment, that the stranger finds himself surrounded with all 
the necessaries and luxuries of his own home. A trifling incident will illus- 
trate the effectiveness with which the most insignificant demands of the guest 
are complied with. The Commodore was asked if he liked soda water, to 
which polite inquiry he responded that the only mineral water he cared for 



168 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

was that from Congress spring in Saratoga ; the next morning the servant 
entered his room with a bottle of it. During the stay of the ships at 
Shanghai there was a constant succession of dinners and halls, and the 
officers were entertained everywhere with the most generous hospitality. 

The native city is a great contrast to that part of the suburbs inhabited 
by the foreign residents, although the portion of the latter occupied by the 
natives is miserable enough. Shanghai, proper, is enclosed within a wall, 
and has the appearance of most of the Chinese cities. The place is quite 
large, and very populous. Its streets are narrow, like most of those of the 
native cities, not being much more than eight or ten feet in width, and are 
intersected by dirty alleys, which lead to the rear of the small and contracted 
dwellings of the Chinese, who live in the midst of foul air and all kinds of 
filth. The filthiness of Shanghai gives no favorable idea of the domestic 
habits of the people ; a slight glance at the men and women usually met in 
the streets was quite convincing enough of their want oi reverence for what 
the proverb says is "next to godliness." During the stay of the Commo- 
dore at Shanghai, the shops had been emptied of their contents and carried 
into places of safety, in expectation of an attack upon the city by the rebels ; 
consequently, the bazaars had a dull look, and but few of the native fabrics 
could be seen. 

The domestic trade of the city has been immense for a long time, being 
carried on in all directions with the vast interior of China. A multitudinous 
population swarms in that part of the country which stretches back of 
Shanghai, and the commercial intercourse with the large city of Nankin and 
others, with their millions of inhabitants, and incessant trading activity, was 
constant, until interrupted by the Chinese rebellion. The trade of Shanghai 
has been stated to be as large as that of any part of the world, not excepting 
even London. 

The immediate neighborhood of Shanghai is highly cultivated, and fertile 
fields stretch in all directions as far as the eye can reach, rich with their har- 
vests of cotton, rice, wheat, barley, beans and potatoes. The markets of the 
town are well supplied, and at moderate prices, with beef, mutton, poultry, 
game, fish, and vegetables of all varieties. Among the difi"erent kinds of 
game, the pheasant, woodcock, and snipe abound, and of the fish, the shad is 
common during its season, of good size and flavor ; some, indeed, larger than 
are seen in the United States, though in taste inferior to those caught in our 
rivers. Fruit is scarce, and of inferior quality, as the Chinese pay but little 
attention to its cultivation ; some cherries, however, were tasted, which proved 
to be tolerably good, and it was said that the peaches were also good. All 
the varieties of Chinese manufactured articles can ordinarily be obtained at 
Shanghai, and especially a silk of famous fabric, woven at Su-Chan, a neigh- 
boring city. But the intestine disturbances prevailing deprived the Com- 
modore of any but a hearsay knowledge of many of these articles, which, 



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THE TAOU-TAI — VISIT TO HIM. 169 

however, are said to be obtained, in pacific times, more easily at Shanghai 
than at Canton. 

The foreign commerce has greatly increased since the termination of the 
war with Great Britain, and the general belief is entertained that Shanghai, 
with its superior advantages, will monopolize most of the foreign trade with 
China. 

The population of the place was estimated at two hundred and eighty 
thousand, and the Chinese who composed it seemed to be of a better class 
than those at Canton and Hong Kong. Like all their countrymen, they are 
indefatigable in labor and untiring in trading activity, for which they have, 
undoubtedly, a natural instinct. 

The Commodore, while at Shanghai, made an interesting return visit to 
the Taou-tai or governor and commander of the city, who first called upon 
him at the American consulate, and afterward visited the ship. The Taou- 
tai has a lucrative, but by no means easy office. Among his other duties, he 
has to watch, especially, the interests and conduct of the foreign residents, 
and what with the caprices of strangers, the sometimes inordinate claims of 
their representatives, and the arbitrary requirements of his imperial master, 
he must have hard work to keep up a fair balance between his duties to his 
government on the one hand and the foreigners on the other. This high 
official has also to sustain the responsibility of a secure transport of the taxes 
of the province, and to fulfil the by no means sinecure duty of protecting the 
commerce of Shanghai against the pirates who swarm the coasts. His high- 
ness makes his official visits with a pomp and circumstance suitable to his 
dignified station. The ringing sounds of gongs herald his approach, and he 
comes seated grandly in his chair of state, attended by his suite of subordinate 
mandarins. The office, in common with the general practice of China, is 
bestowed ordinarily upon him who has earned one of the topmost of the nine 
colored buttons, which, worn above the official cap, serve, by their vari-co- 
lored grades, to distinguish the mandarins. As literary eminence is the 
passport to office, the Taou-tai is ordinarily well up in Chinese literature, 
and can quote whole passages of Confucius or Mencius with the utmost 
volubility. 

In the Commodore's visit to the Taou-tai he was accompanied by twenty 
of his officers and the American consul, who were all, with due regard to 
the importance of the occasion, dressed up in full uniform. The party, thus 
adorned, and duly seated in sedan chairs, were conveyed from the consular 
residence to the government house, situated in the centre of the city, within 
the walls. On arrival at the entrance, the Commodore and his suite were 
saluted with the usual salvo of three guns (the extent, with the Chinese, of 
honorable ammunition on such occasions) and the music of a band. The 
Taou-tai was at the threshold to meet his visitors, and as the Commodore 
alighted from his sedan chair his highness escorted him into the hall of 



170 



EXPEDITION TO JAPAN, 



audience, while the rest of the company followed. The Commodore was 
placed, in accordance with Chinese ceremony, at the side of the Taou-tai, 
on a platform raised a little above the floor. 

On entering and departing from the government house, the party passed 
through an open apartment, adorned with a bold representation of a gigantic 
Chinese deity on the wall, and furnished with large wooden chairs, stuffed 
with red cloth cushions, which were ranged along the sides. A table stand- 
ing in the apartment, and holding the vessel containing the pieces of bam- 
boo which are thrown by the hand of the Chinese judge to the executioner, 
to indicate the number of strokes to be applied to the convicted criminal, 
showed the ordinary purposes of the chamber, which was that of a hall of 
justice. 

Refreshments, consisting of teas, liquors, (including champagne,) cake, 
and so forth, were handed round to the visitors in succession ; and, after a 
stay of an hour, the Commodore and his party returned in the same manner 
as they came. Entering again their sedan chairs, and traversing the narrow 
streets of Shanghai in long procession, and jostling everyone who obstructed 
the way, they finally reached the American consulate. 

While Commodore Perry was at Shanghai, the revolution, which is still 
in progress, had made great headway. Although new developments have 
taken place since, which have altered very much the position of affairs, it 
may not be amiss to give the results of the Commodore's observations of a 
civil commotion, which naturally excited his deepest interest. He writes on 
the spot, at the date of May, 1853 : " The political condition of China at 
the present time is very unsettled ; the whole empire seems to be in a state 
of agitation arguing some mighty revolution ; one-half of the country is in 
occupation of an insurgent force, which claims to represent the old Chinese, 
who were dispossessed a long time since by the present ruling dynasty. At 
the head of the rebel force is a very sagacious man, who from disappoint- 
ment, or some imaginary wrong, growing out of his examination for literary 
honors, (so highly prized by the Chinese,) became disgusted, and at once 
showed his disaffection, and finally raised the flag of open rebellion. At 
first he had only a few followers, but in the course of time multitudes flocked 
to his standard ; and now, after overrunning a great many provinces, he is 
quietly in possession of the great city of Nanking. 

" This man denounces the prevailing religion, and has caused to be 
destroyed numerous Buddhist temples. He professes a faith somewhat sim- 
ilar to that of the Mormons in America, and gives forth that he has constant 
communion with God, and has been acknowledged as his Son. His ignorant 
and lawless followers profess to believe in his pretended revelations, and 
with them he has acquired great power by his religious devices. He pre- 
tends to fraternize with Christians, and argues that all Christian nations, by 
reason of similar faith, should aid him in driving out of the empire the 



THE AMERICANS IN CHINA. 171 

present usurping family, and putting upon the celestial throne a true son of 
heaven, a believer of the decalogue, and a scion of the old Chinese monarchs. 
He does not pretend to any claims himself to the imperial diadem ; but it 
may be well imagined, from his professed dogmas of religion, that when the 
time comes he will turn out to be the proposed great Celestial on Earth." 

In the state of agitation produced by these civil disturbances it was 
natural that the foreign merchants who had large interests at stake should be 
anxious about the security of their property ; accordingly, the American 
commercial houses established at Shanghai addressed a letter to the Hon. 
Humphrey Marshall, minister of the United States to China, in which they 
stated that the amount of their property at a fair valuation, then at risk 
in the port of Shanghai, was $1,200,000, and that they considered it fairly 
entitled to protection, which the rumored withdrawal of the naval force 
would seem to deprive them of Commodore Perry, regarding the interests 
of American citizens in China, and at the same time not forgetting the great 
purpose of his expedition, resolved to leave the Plymouth to protect his 
countrymen and their property, but not otherwise to interfere with his own 
mission or the affairs of China. The request of the American commissioner 
to have a vessel of war to convey him to the mouth of the Peiho, in order 
to secure a recognition on the part of the Chinese government of his official 
presence, was not complied with by the Commodore, who declined not only 
on the score of policy, but from the necessity of concentrating all the naval 
force he could on the expedition to Japan. 

The Mississippi had arrived at Shanghai on the 4th of May, and the 
interval between that date and the 17th of the same month, was chiefly 
employed in transferring the Commodore to the Susquehanna, which then 
became his flag-ship, and in taking in the usual supplies of coal and provi- 
sions for the voyage. No less than Jive tons of Chinese *' cash," * to be dis- 
pensed in the Lew-Chew islands, was rather an unusual addition to the 
ship's stores. 

On Monday morning. May 16th, 1853, the Mississippi moved down the 
river, and was followed the next day by the Commodore in the Susquehanna, 
while the Plymouth was left behind, for a short time, to await the course of 
events in the rebel camp, her commander having orders to follow as soon as 
he could do so consistently with the safety of American interests at Shang- 
hai. 

The day of departure was unusually clear, and the cultivated banks of 
the river, with their orchards and fields of grain, never appeared more beau- 
tifully green. With the fine day, which gave a bright, cheerful aspect to 
every object, the inspiriting music of the band, which struck up a succession 
of lively airs, the crowds of spectators on the shore, and the natural enthu- 
siasm of all on the prospect of carrying out the enterprise which was the 

♦ The '* cash" is a small copper coin, about the twelve-himdredth part of a dollar. 



172 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

great object of the expedition, the departure from Shanghai was in a high 
degree animating. 

The Mississippi had preceded, as we have seen, the Susquehanna, to 
which the Commodore had now transferred his flag, and joined the Supply, 
which, after having grounded on the North Sand, succeeded fortunately in 
getting off without damage. The squadron, which now prepared to sail for 
Lew Chew, was composed of the Susquehanna, the Mississippi, the Supply, 
and the Caprice, which was discovered standing in, as the other ships were 
standing out, and was ordered to follow. The Plymouth was, as has just 
been stated, left at Shanghai, as a guard of American property and interests, 
and the Saratoga remained at Macao, to await the arrival of Dr. Williams, 
the interpreter. These vessels were expected to follow, and join the rendez- 
vous at Lew Chew. 

The Susquehanna, on reaching the mouth of the Yang-tse-Kiang, came 
to anchor and remained there for three days. The Mississippi and Supply 
took up their positions on either side. The junk belonging to Russell & Co., 
the American merchants, which had been hired to carry a cargo of coal to 
the mouth of the river to be put on board the Mississippi, was, while under 
the charge of its own commander and officers, lost on the North Sand. From 
the anchorage of the Mississippi, Gutzlaff's island could be seen some six 
miles distant, and beyond it stretched the long uneven outline of Ruggles' 
islands. The weather was alternately clear and rainy, and when the sun 
did not shine the scene was particularly gloomy and oppressive to the spirits. 
The muddy waters of the Yang-tse-Kiang, looking more muddy still in the 
yellow light of a foggy atmosphere, and the dull constraint of a tedious 
anchorage, presented a sad prospect to the eye, and a wearisome sensation to 
the feelings, which made all anxious for departure. 

The naturalists had an opportunity of gratifying their tastes in observ- 
ing a flock of small birds from the land, which hovered in and about the 
ship. Mr. Heine, the artist, succeeded in obtaining several specimens, 
which had somewhat the appearance of the starling. He also caught a 
graceful dove, of a light brownish color. A beautiful king-fisher was 
brought on board, which had been caught by some of the sailors of the 
Mississippi. Its plumage was exceedingly rich and charmingly variegated ; 
its long bill was of a bright red ; its wings were black ; its body was of a 
rich blue color, and its flossy neck was of a whitish cream tint. 

The Susquehanna got under way at one o'clock on the 23d of May, fol- 
lowed by the Mississippi with the Supply in tow, all hound for Napha, the 
principal port of the Great Lew Chew island. In the course of the even- 
ing, about six o'clock, the low range of islands known as the Saddles, and 
inhabited by a sparse population of fishermen, was passed, the ships direct- 
ing their course to the north of them, where there is an open channel free 
from shoals. The night was clear, with a full moon, and the weather was 



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FROM CHINA TO LEW CHEW. 173 

mild and agreeable. The Susquehanna moved on at a moderate rate, keep- 
ing about a mile in advance of the Mississippi, while the Caprice, gently 
fanned by the southwestern monsoon, managed to keep also in sight, though 
further in the distance, until she was lost in the darkness of the night. 

It was found that the Mississippi, with the aid of topsails, although she 
had the Supply in tow, rapidly gained upon the Susquehanna ; accordingly 
a foretopsail was set upon the latter, the good effect of which was soon 
shown, by her leaving her competitor so far astern that it was necessary to 
wait until the Mississippi could come up again. The Susquehanna's engines 
were only worked at half speed with the consumption, to which she was 
restricted, of one ton of coal per hour, but notwithstanding, with the aid of 
the regular breeze of the monsoon, she succeeded in making seven and a 
half knots an hour. As the course was southerly, the weather became every 
moment warmer, and the sea was as smooth as a lake. During the passage 
the crew were regularly called to quarters and exercised in all the usual 
manoeuvres necessary for preparation for action, and on the morning of the 
25th of May, after quarters, general orders 11 and 12 were read ; the former 
related to the discipline to be observed on board ship during the visit to the 
Lew Chew islands, and the latter enjoined the necessity of keeping up the 
most friendly relations with the Japanese inhabitants wherever found, and 
also stated that the expedition was ordered to use all possible friendly means, 
and not to resort to force but from the sternest necessity. 

In the evening the signal of land in sight was made by the Mississippi, 
and subsequently was reported by the man at the fore-topmast head of the 
Susquehanna. During the night the steamers were kept at slow speed, stand- 
ing off and on ; the Supply had been previously cast off from the Mississippi, 
and left to make her own way under sail. At half-past seven o'clock in the 
morning of May 26th the land was again made at a distance of nearly twenty 
miles, and as the steamers moved on, it was distinctly descried as a long island 
elevated gradually from the sea to a cliff at its northern extremity, and with a 
steep headland at the south. Beyond the island, which was passed, and its 
green foliage distinctly seen, was other land to which the Susquehanna was now 
headed, followed closely by the Mississippi, while the Supply was quite out 
of sight. Napha was reached in the evening, and entered in company with 
the Saratoga, from Macao, which ship the steamers had fallen in with off the 
harbor. It is due to Lieutenant Bent, an officer on board the Mississippi, 
to acknowledge that the Commodore availed himself of that gentleman's 
former experiences in a visit in the Preble to pilot the ships as they entered 
Napha. 



i.i;w ciii'.w 1° 









.^:=, 



■M% 



CHAPTER VII. 



Number and position of Islands of Lew Chew.— Their supposed political relations to Japan and China.— 
Description of the island of great Lew Chew, as seen on the first approach to it— Visit of officials to' 
the Susquehanna.— Visit of Dr. Bettleheim.- Eefasal of presents, and consequent mortification of the 
Lew Che wans.— Exploration of the island resolved on by the Commodore. — Daguerreotyping on 
shore.— Coral insect and its formations. — ^Second visit of the Authorities of Lew Chew. — Eegent of the 
island received by the Commodore.— Friendly nature of the interview.— Surprise of the Lew Chewans 
at sight of the steam engine.— Commodore announces to them his intention of returning the visit at 
the palace of Shui.— Their evident embarrassment thereat.— Leave to go on shore.— Description of 
Napha and its vicinity, by one of the officers. — Exploring party sets out, placed under the command 
of the chaplain, Mr. Jones. — ^Mr. Bayard Taylor attached to it, with orders to take notes and furnish 
a detailed report of the journey.— Negotiations with the Lew Chew authorities to obtain a house on 
shore.- Their manifest opposition.— Commodore persists and succeeds.— Officers, when on shore, con- 
tinually watched by spies. — Captain Basil Hall's account of the Lew Chewans somewhat exaggera- 
ted. — Impressions made on the officers as to the character of the natives.— Hydrographic surveys. — 
Boat exercise of the crews, and drilling on land of the marines. 



t „l 



N Thursday, the 26th 
of May, the squadron 
found itself quietly an- 
chored in the harbor of 
Napha, the principal 
port of the Great Lew 
Chew island, and the 
first point where the 
expedition touched on 
Japanese territory, if 
Lew Chew (or, as the 
natives call it, Doo 
Choo) be indeed a de- 
pendency of Japan„ 
The group of islands 
known as the Lieou 
Kieou, or Lew Chew, is said to be in number thirty-six, at considerable 
distances from each other, and lying between the islands of Kioosioo and 
Formosa; they are between 24° 10' and 28° 40^ north latitude, and 127° 
and 129° east longitude from Greenwich. 




PtBqpe 



Ni 




IeW CHEW 



nufMtles 

>h -f-< f I r f 



AiktT-TTUlJ- I uh 



ISLAND OF LEW CHEW. 175 

It is a question yet discussed to what power Lew Chew belongs. By some 
it is said to be a dependency of the Prince of Satzuma, of Japan ; others 
suppose it to belong to China. The probabilities, however, are all on the 
side of the dependence, more or less absolute, of Lew Chew on Japan, and 
probably, also, of some qualified subordination to China, as they undoubtedly 
send tribute to that country. Language, customs, laws, dress, virtues, vices, 
and commercial intercourse, all are corroborative of such an opinion. But 
of this more will be said hereafter. 

The Great Lew Chew was seen from the ships, as they approached, at the 
distance of more than twenty miles, and, when near enough to render objects 
distinguishable, presented a very inviting appearance. It is thus graphically 
described by the pen of one of the officers of the expedition : * 

" The shores of the island were green and beautiful from the water, di- 
versified with groves and fields of the freshest verdure. The rain had bright- 

* The well-kn(nvTi traveller Bayard Taylor, who joined the Susquehanna in China, The 
circumstances under which this gentleman joined the expedition are thus detailed by the 
Commodore : 

"On my an-ival at Shanghai I found there Mr. Bayard Taylor, who had a letter of intro- 
duction to me from an esteemed friend in New York. He had been a long time, as I under- 
stood, exceedingly anxious to join the squadron, that he might visit Japan, which he could 
reach in no other way. 

" On presenting the letter referred to, he at once made a request to accompany me, but 
to this application I strongly objected, intimating to him the determination I had made at 
the commencement of the cruise to admit no civilians, and explaining how the few who were 
in the squadron had, by signing the shipping articles, subjected themselves to all the re- 
straints and penalties of naval law ; that there were no suitable accommodations for him, 
and that, should he join the expedition, he would be obliged to suffer, with the other civil- 
ians, many discomforts and privations, and would moreover be restricted, under a general or- 
der of the Navy Department, from communicating any information to the public prints, or 
privately to his friends ; that all the notes or general observations made by him during the 
cruise would belong to the government, and therefore must be deposited with me. Notwith- 
standing this, however, with a full knowledge of aU the difficulties and inconveniences which 
would attend his joining the squadron, he still urged his application. 

" Being thus importuned, and withal very favorably impressed with his gentlemanlike 
and unassimaing manners, I at last reluctantly consented, and he joined the mess of Messrs. 
Heine and Brown, on board the Susquehanna. During the short time he remained in the 
squadron he gained the respect and esteem of all, and, by his habits of observation, aided 
by his ready pen, became quite useful in preparing notes descriptive of various incidents that 
transpired during our brief visit to Japan and the islands. It was the only service he could 
render, and it was afforded cheerfully. These notes have been used in the preparation of 
my report, and due credit has, I trust, been given to him. 

" Some of the incidents illustrative of the events mentioned in my official communica- 
tions were, vnth my consent, written out by Mr. Taylor, and sent home by him for publica- 
tion in the United States. These he has used in his late work. His original journals were 
honorably deposited in my hands. His reports^ like those of every other individual detailed 
for the performance of a special duty, were, of course, delivered to me, and became part of 
the official records of the expedition." 




"-y. fefli'^^, J 



""I «„., 



V^.f>. 



I S L A X D 
GREAT Li;\V CHEW 



176 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

ened the colors of the landscape, which recalled to my mind the richest En- 
glish scenery. The swelling hills which rose immediately from the water's 
edge, increased in height towards the centre of the island, and were pictu- 
resquely broken by abrupt rocks and crags, which, rising here and there, gave 
evidence of volcanic action. Woods, apparently of cedar or pine, ran along 
the crests of the hills, while their slopes were covered with gardens and 
fields of grain. To the northward the hills were higher, and the coast jutted 
out in two projecting headlands, showing that there were deep bays or in- 
dentations between." " By three o'clock we were so near that the town of 
Napha was distinctly visible, at the bottom of the bay. The cape, called 
Abbey Point, projected in front of it, covered with foliage, and the extremity 
crowned with an isolated group of crags, whose mossy turrets and buttresses 
evidently suggested the name of the point. The hills were dotted in various 
places with white specks, which I at first took to be dwellings, but which 
were tombs of limestone rock." * 

As the ships entered, the British ensign was seen suddenly to rise on a 
flag-stafi", placed near a house, which was perched on a curious overhanging 
point of rock, north of the town ; this house was the residence of the mis- 
sionary, Mr. Bettelheim, a convert from Judaism, who married in England, 
and had, for some five or six years, been resident on the island, under the 
auspices of an association of pious English gentlemen, officers of the British 
navy, very much, however, against the inclinations of the Lew Chewans. On 
passing Abbey Point, the mouth of the inner harbor became visible, and 
within it was a number of large Japanese junks riding at anchor. Two 
persons were seen watching the movements of the squadron from the foot of 
the flagstaff; and, through a telescope, numbers could be seen leaving the 
town under white umbrellas. 

The ships had not been at anchor two hours, before, notwithstanding the 
rain, a boat came off with two officials. On reaching the deck, they made 
many profound salutations, and presented a folded red card of Japanese 
paper, about a yard long. The principal personage wore a loose salmon- 
colored robe of very fine grass cloth, while the dress of the other was of 
similar fashion, but of a blue color. On their heads were oblong caps of 
bright yellow; they had blue sashes tied around their waists, and white 
sandals upon their feet. Their beards were long and black, though thin, 
and their ages were, seemingly, some thirty-five or forty years. They had 
the Japanese cast of countenance, and in complexion were a dusky olive. 
Who they were, or what the purpose of their visit, was not immediately 
known, as there happened to be no interpreter, at the time of their visit, on 
board the Susquehanna, to which ship they came ; but one of the Commo- 

* Extracted from the manuscript journal of Mr. Taylor, which, with those of other offi- 
cers, pursuant to the orders of the Hou. Secretary, was placed in the hands of the Commo- 
dore. 



VISITORS FROM THE SHORE. 177 

dore's Chinese servants was summoned, wlio understood the characters on 
their card sufficiently to explain that the visit was merely a chin-chin^ or 
complimentary salutation on arrival. The Commodore, however, acting on 
bis previously determined plan, declined seeing them, or receiving any other 
than one of the principal dignitaries of the island; and they accordingly 
returned to the shore. They had, no doubt, been sent to make observations, 
and, without committal, to ascertain what they could of the strangers, that 
the policy and treatment of the authorities of the island might be shaped 
according to circumstances. 

^ Scarcely had they gone, before Dr. Bettelheim came on board in a native 
boat ; and such were the relations in which he stood to the islanders that he 
hailed the arrival of the squadron with delight, aijd manifested no little ex- 
citement of manner. He was conducted to the Commodore's cabin, where 
he remained for two or three hours; and in the course of the interview it 
appeared that he had never heard even of the intended American expedition ; 
that a year and a half had elapsed since any foreign vessel had been at 
Napha, and that he was almost beside himself with joy. Grog and biscuit 
were given to his boatmen, and in their exhilaration, when they started for 
the shore, they contrived to carry the missionary some three miles tip the 
coast. 

The next day, the 27th, the shores looked, if possible, more brilliantly 
green and beautiful than ever, and all on board were struck with the loveli- 
ness of their appearance. About seven o'clock, four boats came off, bringing 
presents for the ship ; in one of these were the two visitors of the day before, 
who brought another card, seemingly a list of the presents. He of the sal- 
mon-colored robe had given his name, on his first visit, as WJiang-cJia-ching , 
probably the Lew Chew pronunciation of Whang -ia-zh in ^ or " his excellency, 
Whang y The presents brought consisted of a bullock, several pigs, a white 
goat, some fowls, vegetables, and eggs. These were peremptorily refused, 
nor were those who brought them permitted to come on board. After wait- 
ing a short time, they returned to the town, with an evident expression of 
anxiety and uneasiness on their countenances. At this time it was observed 
in the squadron that several of the junks put out from the inner harbor and 
sailed to the northward, as it was conjectured, for Japan. Some of them 
passed quite near to the ships, to gratify their curiosity by a closer inspec- 
tion of such large vessels. The junks were somewhat like those of the 
Chinese, and, like them, had two great eyes inserted in the bows, as if to see 
the way. Undoubtedly, the presence of the squadron had created great alarm 
among the junks ; for no force, half as large, had ever been seen at Napha 
before, and probably some of the junks had been despatched to Japan with 
the news of the squadron's appearance at Lew Chew. 

A boat was sent off for Dr. Bettelheim, and he, with the Rev. Mr. Jones, 
chaplain of the Mississippi, and Mr. Wells Williams, the interpreter, break- 
12 



178 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

fasted with the Commodore. An exploration of the island was resolved on 
by the chief It was to consist of three parties, two by sea, and one into the 
interior. The former were to survey, respectively, the eastern and western 
coasts ; the latter to make a thorough examination of the interior, and to 
collect specimens of its animals, minerals, and vegetables. The Commodore 
also resolved to procure a house on shore, and gave notice to Mr. Brown, 
the artist in charge of the daguerreotype apparatus, that he must prepare his 
materials, occupy the building, and commence the practice of his art. 

On the 27th, the Commodore gave permission to the masters' mates to 
take the gig and pull about in the harbor, with a prohibition, however, of 
landing or communicating with the natives. Mr. Bayard Taylor was of the 
party, and we prefer to give our narrative in his own words, perfectly satis- 
fied that we shall thus most gratify the reader. * 

" The crew were Chinamen, wholly ignorant of the use of oars, and our 
trip would have been of little avail, had not the sea been perfectly calm. 
With a little trouble we succeeded in making them keep stroke, and made 
for the coral reef which separates the northern from the oar-channel. The 
tide was nearly out, and the water was very shoal on all the approaches to 
the reef. We found, however, a narrow channel, winding between the groves 
of mimic foliage, and landed on the spongy rock, which rose about a foot 
above the water. Here the little pools which seamed the surface were alive 
with crabs, snails, star-fish, sea-prickles, and numbers of small fish of the in- 
tensest blue color. We found several handsome shells clinging to the coral, 
but all our efforts to secure one of the fish failed. The tide was ebbing so 
fast that we were obliged to return for fear of grounding the boat. We hung 
for some time over the coral banks, enraptured with the beautiful forms and 
colors exhibited by this wonderful vegetation of the sea. The coral grew in 
rounded banks, with clear, deep spaces of water between, resembling, in 
miniature, ranges of hills covered with autumnal forests. The loveliest tints 
of blue, violet, pale green, yellow, and white gleamed through the waves, 
and all the varied forms of vegetable life were grouped together, along the 
edges of cliff's and precipices, hanging over the chasms worn by currents 
below. Through those paths, and between the stems of the coral groves, the 
blue fish shot hither and thither, like arrows of the purest lapis-lazuli ; and 
others of a dazzling emerald color, with tails and fins tipped with gold, eluded 
our chase like the green bird in the Arabian story. Far down below, in the 

* It is due to Mr. Taylor here to state that we draw the principal part of the story of 
the first visit to Lew Chew from his journal, and are glad often to adopt his language, as 
we can frame none hetter. Commodore Perry has desired that we should do so. His own 
journal is less full in some particulars of this part of the voyage, because he relied on Mr. 
Taylor's, (which he knew would he accurate and careful,) to amplify topics on which he 
made but brief notes. The Commodore has particularly directed this statement to be made 
tliat justice may be done to Mr. Taylor for the services he rendered. 



KEGENTS VISIT. 179 

dusky depth of the waters, we saw, now and then, some large brown fish, 
hovering stealthily about the entrances to the coral groves, as if lying in wait 
for their bright little inhabitants. The water was so clear that the eye was 
deceived as to its depth, and we seemed, now to rest on the branching tops 
of some climbing forest, now to hang suspended as in mid-air, between the 
crests of two opposing ones. Of all the wonders of the sea which have fur- 
nished food for poetry and fable this was assuredly the most beautiful." 

" We succeeded in obtaining a number of fine specimens of coral. The 
tips of the branches were soft and glutinous, and the odor exhaling from them 
was exceedingly ofiensive." 

On the 30th, it was rumored on board that some of the principal authori" 
ties on shore intended on that day to visit the Susquehanna. Mr. Williams, 
the interpreter, came on board and took up permanently his quarters in the 
ship, and a boat was despatched for Dr. Bettelheim, to be present on the 
occasion. 

On the preceding day, Lieutenant Contee and Mr. Williams went on 
shore to pay a visit to the then supposed governor of Napha, since ascertained 
to be the mayor. They were received in a very polite and friendly manner; 
though the mayor expressed his deep sense of mortification that his presents 
had been refused. Lieutenant Contee explained that it was the uniform 
practice of our government not to accept such presents for her ships, and 
that (in consequence of our custom) the offering of them not unfrequently 
subjected the commander and officers to mortification, as their refusal seemed 
like an ungrateful return for offered courtesy ; and that in this case no dis- 
respect was intended. 

About one o'clock, a very ordinary native barge, containing the Lew 
Chew dignitaries, came alongside. The marines were in uniform, and every 
preparation had been made on board to show them respect and produce im- 
pressive effect. One of the inferior officers came first up the gangway with 
the card of his superior, which Mr. Williams, the interpreter, received and 
read ; the officer then returned, and the regent of the kingdom of Lew 
Chew, a venerable old man, in a few minutes appeared, supported by two of 
his officers. Captains Buchanan and Adams received him at the gangway, 
and were saluted by the regent after the fashion of his country. His hands 
were joined upon his breast, while his body and knees were bent very pro- 
foundly, and his head was slightly turned away from the person he addressed 
The prince, it was said, was a lad of eleven years old, and was represented 
to be ill. The old gentleman acted as regent for him. Six or eight other 
officers and some dozen subordinates followed the regent to the deck. A 
salute of three guns was then fired, which so startled some of the Lew Chew 
officers that they dropped upon their knees. 

One of the' most striking features in the visitors was their general im- 
perturbable gravity. It was indeed plain that they had intense curiosity. 



180 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

not unmmgled with considerable alarm ; but they were careful to preserve 
the most dignified demeanor. They were conducted to the captain's cabin, 
and thence shown over the ship. They observed every thing with great 
gravity ; but when they reached the ponderous engine, their assumed indif- 
ference was fairly overcome, and it was evident that they were conscious of 
having encountered in it something very far beyond their comprehension. 
They were much quicker of perception, however, than the Chinese, as well as 
more agreeable in features, and much more neat and tidy in apparel. 

Up to this time they had not seen the Commodore. He had remained 
secluded in solitary dignity, in his own cabin. It was not meet that he 
should be made too common to the eyes of the vulgar. All this, of course, 
was mere matter of policy for the time being, as the Commodore was no very 
unusual sight to the officers and men of the squadron. The visitors were, 
however, informed that they were now to be conducted into his presence, and 
were accordingly taken to his cabin. Just as the regent reached the head 
of the steps the band struck up a lively air ; but the dignified old man 
passed on without even casting an eye on the musicians. To him it was 
doubtless a solemn occasion. The Commodore received and entertained his 
guests most handsomely, and during the interview of an hour and a half 
between himself and the regent, assurances of amity and good will were 
exchanged between the parties. On the retirement of the regent he was 
escorted with great respect to the ship's side, and on his departure received 
honors similar to those that had been tendered on his arrival. 

Among other matters that occurred at the meeting between the regent 
and the Commodore, the latter informed his guest that he should do himself 
the honor to return his visit, ai the palace^ in the city of Sheudi or Shui, on 
the following Monday week, (June 6th.) This information caused some con- 
sultation and discussion between the regent and his counsellors ; but the 
Commodore put an end to it by stating that he had fully made a determina- 
tion to go to the palace on that day, and should surely execute it. He 
further added that he should expect such a reception as became his rank and 
position as commander of the squadron and diplomatic representative of the 
United States in those regions ; and with a distinct understanding, if not 
acquiescence, on the part of the regent, to this eff'ect, he took his departure. 

One result of the visit was very agreeable to the officers, for permission 
was immediately given them to go on shore, accompanied with a request that 
they would in no case intrude themselves where their presence might seem 
to be disagreeable to the natives. They very soon availed themselves of the 
privilege, and a party (of which Mr. Taylor was one) landed at the foot of 
the rock upon which Dr. Bettelheim had erected his flagstafi". They found 
the shore to be coral rock covered with a dense and luxurious vegetation ; 
and about the distance of twenty yards from flood tide mark, the gardens of 
the natives commenced, divided from each other by coral walls and bristling 




j^s -c-^vcNi-: 



LEW CHEW PEASANT. 



APPEARANCE OF NAPHA. 181 

hedges of yucca and cactus. Mr. Taylor thus describes this his first land- 
ing on Lew Chew : " Several groups of Lew Chewans watched our landing, 
but slowly retired as we approached them. The more respectable, distin- 
guished by the silver pins in their hair, made to us profound salutations. The 
lower classes wore a single garment of brown cotton or grass-cloth, and the 
children were entirely naked. Even in the humblest dwellings there was an 
air of great neatness and order. Most of them were enclosed within high 
coral walls, in the midst of a small plot of garden land, some of which con- 
tained thriving patches of tobacco, maize, and sweet potatoes. 

" Threading the winding lanes of the suburb for a short distance, we 
came into the broad paved road which leads from Napha to Sheudi. It is an 
admirable thoroughfare, almost equal to the macadamized roads of England. 
The walls on either hand of coral rock are jointed together with great pre- 
cision. No mortar is used in their construction, but the stones are so well 
fitted, (very much in the manner of the cyclopean walls of Italy,) that the 
whole appears, at a little distance, to be one mass. We here came upon par- 
ties from the Mississippi and Saratoga. The natives collected in crowds to 
see us pass, falling back as we approached, and closing behind us. They 
were under the authority of several persons, who had evidently received a 
special appointment to watch us. Among them were many fine, venerable 
figures — old men with flowing beards and aspects of great dignity and 
serenity ; but no sooner were any of these addressed than they retreated with 
great haste. The houses were all closed, and not a female was to be seen. 
The roofs were of red tiles, of excellent manufacture, and this, with the 
dark-green foliage of the trees which studded the city, the walls topped with 
cactus, and the occasional appearance of a palm or banana, reminded me of 
the towns in Sicily. 

" As we entered the thickly inhabited portion of Napha, the road passed 
over the foot of a low hill, by regularly graded steps, and then descended to 
the inner harbor, where the Japanese junks lay at anchor. From this harbor 
a creek, or estuary, almost dry at low water, extends eastward into the 
island. The market-place is in this portion of the town. It was deserted, 
like the streets, except by the inhabitants of two or three large tents, which 
were closed, except a narrow aperture. On our asking (by signs) for water, 
the people went to these tents and procured some in a square wooden ladle, 
exactly similar to those used by the Turcomans, in Asia Minor. I did not 
go down to look at the Japanese junks, but, with some others, followed the 
course of the creek. Two of the police officers — as we took them to be — 
stuck to us, and whenever we paused motioned to us to take the road which 
would have led us back to the beach. For this very reason I was desirous 
of proceeding further. All of the town which we had seen was completely 
closed, the shops shut, and the stalls of vendors of small wares, in the streets, 
deserted with such haste, in some instances, that the articles remained ex- 



182 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

posed. We walked for about half a mile up the creek, and finally reached 
another road, which appeared to be one of the principal thoroughfares. The 
appearance of the interior of the island was exceedingly beautiful. The 
land rose in bold hills, crowned with groves, of a variety of pine which was 
new to me, resembling the cedar of Lebanon in its physiognomy. The sides 
of the hills were covered with fields of brilliant green, spotted, here and 
there, by the white-washed sepulchres of former generations. In the vege- 
tation there was a mixture of the growths of tropical and temperate climates, 
and in no part of the world have I seen a greater richness or variety. A 
stone bridge, of rougb but substantial workmanship, crosses the creek near 
its head. I noticed several of the natives riding over it into the country, on 
the Lew Chew ponies — shaggy, little animals, probably descended from the 
Chinese stock. 

" We strolled into a temple, from the walls of which several persons, pro- 
bably females, had been watching us. They disappeared with great rapidity 
as we entered the door. The court-yard of the temple was shaded with fine 
trees, but we discovered nothing of interest except two long, narrow boats, 
of the kind called ' centipede ' at Hong Kong, designed for public festivals. 
While we sat down upon them to rest, quite a crowd of natives gathered 
about us, and soon became familiar, though respectful in their demeanor. 
They were very neatly dressed in grass-cloth robes of a blue or salmon color, 
and (perhaps by contrast with the filthy Chinese) seemed to me the cleanest 
persons I had ever seen. The street vendors had not had time to get out 
of our way, and they sat beside their piles of coarse cheese-cakes. There 
were some women among them, but they were all old and hideously ugly. 
The costume of the female does not differ from that of the males, but they 
are distinguished by having a single instead of a double hair-pin." 

On the 30th of May, the party ordered to explore the interior of the 
island, and its eastern coast, set out for the performance of that duty. It 
consisted of twelve persons — four officers, four of the crew, and four Chinese 
coolies. From the Susquehanna were sent Mr. Taylor and Mr. Heine ; and 
from the Mississippi the Rev. Mr. Jones, chaplain, and Dr. Lynah, assistant 
surgeon. The command of the expedition was given to Mr. Jones, who was 
directed particularly to observe the geology of the island ; as, if it contained 
coal, it was a most important characteristic. Mr. Taylor was ordered to 
take notes, and write out a detailed account of the journey. It was sup- 
posed the duty would occupy five or six days, and accordingly the expedition 
was furnished with provisions for that period, and with a tent. The men 
were armed with cutlasses and carbines, and ten rounds of ball cartridges 
each. It was not, however, supposed that there would be need of a resort 
to force on any occasion; still, it was deemed prudent to let the natives see 
the power of the party to defend itself; and beside, guns and ammunition 
were required for the purpose of procuring birds and animals. 



NAPHA OFFICIAL DEVICES. 183 

On this day, also, the Commodore sent two of the officers of the squad- 
ron ashore, with the interpreter, to make arrangements with the authorities 
for procuring a house. On landing, they proceeded to a building which 
seemed to be what we should call, in the United States, a " town hall." It 
was the place, in the village of Tumai, where common strangers were 
received, and contained some thirty mats on the floor for sleeping ; waiters 
were also in attendance with tea and pipes. The purposes to which the 
building is applied seemed, however, to be various. The literati meet there 
to converse and interchange opinions ; and any one of them may spend the 
night there upon any unoccupied mat. Our officers, on reaching this build- 
ing, sent for one of the principal men, who, after an hour's delay, made his 
appearance, and was most profound in his obeisance. Tea and pipes (the 
never failing preliminary) having been disposed of, the gentlemen made 
known their business to the Japanese official. He promptly declared that 
it would be utterly impossible for the Americans to occupy a house on shore. 
But, as Captain Hall, of the British navy, had, after much delay, at last 
obtained a house on shore, and our officers knew it, they reminded the Lew 
Chewan of the fact, and simply told him that they must have a house. He 
was very ingenious in arguments to show that the difficulties in the way were 
insurmountable. He was then asked if some two or three of the Americans 
might not sleep in the house for that night, and replied that no American 
must sleep in a house on shore. Upon being pressed further he seemed to 
become somewhat impatient, and, rising from his seat, he crossed over to 
where the officers sat, and dispensing with the aid of the interpreter, (through 
whom all communications had thus far been made,) to the surprise of our 
gentlemen, said : " Gentlemen, Doo Choo man very small, American man 
not very small. I have read of America in books of Washington — very 
good man, very good. Doo Choo good friend American. Doo Choo man 
give America all provision he wants. American no can have house on shore." 
These were nearly his exact words ; and the officers concluded that he had 
probably learned from Dr. Bettelheim what he knew of the English language- 

"When they insisted that two or three of their company should stay in the 
house, at least for the night, he begged permission to go and confer with the 
mayor of Napha. He was gone for some time, and probably went three miles 
beyond Napha, to the palace of Shui, to confer with the regent. " Well,'' 
(said one of the officers, on his return,) " we can sleep here to-night ? " — with 
a polite bow and marked emphasis, he replied "you cannot." But our offi- 
cers had been ordered to procure a house, and resolved to obey ; so they left 
one of their number with the interpreter to sleep there, unless they should 
be sent for by the Commodore, while they returned to the flag-ship to report 
what they had done. The officer and interpreter occupied two of the mata 
that night, and the islanders slept on the rest. There was no forcible taking 
possession of a building, as some have represented. Two men slept in the 



184 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

town-house for one night, surrounded by the natives, and this was all that 
was exacted or taken. The next day the Commodore sent a sick officer, with 
his servant, to the place, and those who slept there on the previous night 
came on board.* 

There was evident opposition on the part of the authorities, at first, to 
visits on shore from the ships. This was expected, for the narratives of all 
who had visited the island had prepared the squadron for this. Notwith- 
standing, however, our officers did go on shore and wander over the town of 
Napha and its suburbs, objects of no little interest and curiosity to the 
natives, who followed them in crowds, and were very polite, bowing low to 
them as tliey passed. But, despite all this courtesy, our officers were quite 
sensible that the eyes of spies were upon them continually, and that every 
movement was watched. The women and children were taught by these 
officials to run away, as if affrighted, on the approach of the Americans, and, 
in short, a polite suspicion characterized the intercourse on the part of the 

* We have before us an original note from the regent of Lew Chew, addressed to the 
Commodore, with a translation of the same, made by Mr. Williams. We insert the latter 
as affording a specimen of the Lew Chew epistolary style, premising that to represent them- 
selves as very poor and obscure, and indeed unworthy almost of notice, was the uniform 
practice of the officials of the island, in all their communications with our officers. It seems 
to be part of their settled policy ; for we find the same humble and depreciatory representa- 
tions of themselves pervading their letters to the British officers, on the visit of the Bishop 
of Victoria. The communication below relates to the two subjects of the Commodore's 
visit to the palace at Shui, and granting a house for the use of the squadron on shore ; both 
of which events they strove hard, by various artifices, to prevent. 

A prepared petition. Shang Ta-mu, regent of Lew Chew, &c., &c., hereby urgently 
petitions upon important matters. On the 21st day of the present month (this, of course, is 
a translation of their mode of expressing time into ours) I received your excellency's verbal 
orders that on the 30th day of the present month, at 10 o'clock, you had concluded to come 
to the capital to return your respects. Also, on the 26th instant, Ching Changlieh, the 
mayor of Napha, received your excellency's communication saying, that on the 30th instant, 
at 10 o'clock, it was decided to go up to Shui, the capital, to return the visit of the regent 
at the palace, and wished this to be distinctly stated in the proper way. 

Now, it is plain to all that the capital and towns of this little country are quite different 
from the provincial capitals of China : here there is only a palace for the king, and no halls, 
official residences, markets, or shops ; and up to this time, no envoy from a foreign country 
has ever entered into the palace. In February, of last year, an English general came here, 
bearing a public letter, and was strenuous to enter the palace, there to deliver it ; the high 
officers repeatedly requested that it might be given them elsewhere, but he refused, and 
forced himself into the palace. At that time, from the young prince and queen dowager 
down to the lowest officers and people, all were alarmed and fearful, hardly keeping soul 
and body together ; and the queen dowager has been dangerously sick even to this day, the 
physicians giving her broths and medicines for her alarming ailments which are not yet 
removed. All the officers in the country are really troubled and grieved on this account ; 
and having heard that the ruler of your country is endued with great kindness and vast 
compassion, and highly prizes humanity and benevolence, they urgently beg of your excel- 



CHARACTER OF LEW CHEWANS. 185 

Lew Chewans. The sick officer, however, on shore at Tumai, seemed to be 
on the best possible terms with the natives, and they certainly were kind. 
The inhabitants appear to be naturally not unamiable, but the experience of 
our officers does not altogether sustain the glowing accounts of the simplicity, 
friendliness and contentment of the people. Either Captain Basil Hall was 
mistaken, or the national traits have changed since the time of his visit. He 
represents them as without arms, ignorant even of money, docile, tractable 
and honest, scrupulously obedient to their rulers and their laws, and, in fact, 
as loving one another too well wilfully to harm or wrong each other. Many 
of the officers of the squadron went to the island, expecting to find these 
beautiful traits of character; but gradually and painfully undeceived in 
many particulars, they were constrained to acknowledge that human nature 
in Lew Chew is very much the same as it is elsewhere. 

The system of government, of which secret espionage forms a distinguish- 
ing feature, must beget in the inferior classes cunning and falsehood, and 

lencj, that respectfully embodying the humanity and benevolence of your sovereign, and his 
great love for men, you will take the case of the queen dowager, and her severe indisposi- 
tion, into your favorable consideration, and cease from going into the palace to return 
thanks. If you deem it necessary to make this compliment, please go to the residence of 
the prince, there to make your respects in person. Respecting the matter of renting a house 
for residing, it has been stated by the mayor of Napha that, on the 24th instant, he had 
clearly shown forth the circumstances ; and, on the 26th, had received your excellency's 
reply, in which it was remarked — " that, whenever the officers and men from the ships 
were on shore, rambling about, they had no place of resort, and that, as there were no inns 
in the country, if they were overtaken by rain or bad weather, or were detained so that they 
were unable to return on board before night, there was no place to rest at, unless they 
abniptly entered the houses of the people ; that, as the men on board ship were ignorant of 
the Lew Chewan language, if they wanted only a cup of water they could not get it ; for 
these reasons, one or two houses were required, and if they were wanted for other purposes, 
these were all of a peaceable and friendly nature, but it was indispensable to have one. The 
mayor (of Napha) having intimated that the building already occupied by the sailors was a 
hing-lcwan, or public hall, if the officers would designate another building, they would re- 
move to it according to their wishes." I find that the building now occupied is a public 
house, for the deliberations of officers and police, and meetings on public business ; but 
having sought out a place which can be used, I find that the Shing-hien-sz\ or Holy Mani- 
festing monastery, for preserving the anchorage of ships, can be obtained for a residence ; 
and I beg that orders for removal to this place, as a temporary residence, may be given. 
Then will the prince and authorities one and all, be greatly obliged by this great kindness. 
An important petition. 

Hien fung, 3d year, 4th moon, 27th day, (June 3d, 1853.) 

This building might readily have been granted on the first application. It was, we 
believe, the same used by the English, on Captain Hall's visit. As to the young prince, the 
reader will be surprised to learn that there were the strongest reasons in the minds of many 
for suspecting him to be an imaginary personage. No one believed a syllable of the story 
about the queen dowager's illness 5 indeed, there was no evidence to the Americans that 
there was a queen dowager. 



186 



EXPEDITION TO JAPAN 



these our officers certainly found. The Lew Chewans pretend ignorance of 
offensive weapons, and of such no open display is made by the people, but 
Dr. Bettelheim says that he has seen fire-arms in their possession, though 
they seek to conceal them from strangers ; and they are doubtless, by nature, 
a pacific people. As to money, they know the value of gold and silver very 
well, and they traffic for the Chinese " cash," of which from twelve to four- 
teen hundred are equivalent to the Spanish dollar. They are an eminently 
shrewd people, and proved themselves to be somewhat " smart" in the matter 
of exchange, when the disbursing officers of the squadron came to settle with 
them the value of the " cash." They showed no reluctance to take our eagles 
and half-eagles, though Captain Hall says they would not, in his day, touch 
the British gold coins. They have, on the whole, many excellent natural 
traits, and their worst vices are probably the result, in a great measure, 
of the wretched system of government under which they live. 

The officers of the squadron were, during the period of the visit, most 
usefully and diligently employed in making hydrographic surveys, and the 
results are all embodied in the charts which form part of the records of the 
expedition. Boat exercise in the harbor formed also part of the occupation 
of the several crews ; while the marines were on shore, drilling under the 
charge of their officers. These things indicated that the Commodore was 
determined to have every department in the highest state of discipline, that 
he might be prepared for any event. 

On Saturday, the 4th of June, the party that had been sent to explore 
the interior of the island returned in safety, and the result of their labors will 
be found in the following chapter. 




_^r^ 

I. o 






4- 



V 



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W 



s 



lis 



CHAPTER VIII 



Report of an Inland Exploration of Great Lew Chew, by a Party from the Squadron, under the Command 

of Commodore Perry. 




ONDAY, the 30th of May, says the report, 
was the day fixed upon by Commodore Perry for 
our departure. We were ordered to cross the 
island to the eastern shore, follow the line of 
coast northward, and return through the interior, pushing our course as far 
as practicable, under our instructions to return within six days. All the 
stores having been procured, and packed in convenient parcels, together with 
portfolios and drawing materials, implements for preparing birds, &c., we 
landed about 10 o'clock, and proceeded to the house of the missionary. Dr. 
Bettelheim, which had been chosen as the rendezvous. The authorities had 
not been previously informed of our intention ; and, as it was evident that 
we should not be allowed to advance far without an escort, or espionage of 
some kind, Dr. Bettelheim sent to request that a proper officer should accom- 
pany us as guide. After waiting about an hour, and no person appearing, we 
decided to set out, believing that our guide would be forthcoming before 
we left the city. In fact, we had no sooner reached the main street, com- 



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188 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

municating with the road to Sheudi, than a portly personage, with a long 
white beard, and two younger officers, with black beards and swarthy com- 
plexions, joined us. A crowd of curious natives had also collected, and 
followed us until we left the city. 

Each of the men carried a haversack, in addition to his arms, leaving 
about 120 pounds weight of baggage to be divided among the four coolies. 
The men, Terry and Mitchell, marched in advance, the former carrying the 
flag, while the other men. Smith and Davis, remained in the rear of the bag- 
gage ; this order was preserved during the whole expedition. We had not 
proceeded half a mile before our coolies showed signs of breaking down under 
their loads, and, even though we might force them to keep up for some time 
longer, it was evident that we could not make much progress without further 
help ; Mr. Jones, therefore, requested the portly old officer, who seemed to 
have special charge over us, to supply us with four more coolies, promising 
that they should be paid on our return. After waiting half an hour at the 
northern end of the city, four spare young natives came up with bamboo 
poles, and relieved the Chinamen of half their load. We now took the high 
road to Sheudi, passing the salt creek which comes up from the village of 
Tume, by a bridge of one arch ; the crowd turned back at this point, leaving 
us about a dozen followers, who seemed to be attendants or subordinates of 
the principal officers. 

Beyond the bridge we passed over a meadow, studded with singular bro- 
ken rocks of secondary limestone, covered with clumps of pine trees. The 
road then passed around the base of a hill, the front of which was occupied 
by a temple of massive stone masonry. It was shaded with large trees, resem- 
bling in foliage the Indian fig or sycamore. Paths, over which the hedges of 
bamboo formed complete arches, ran up the sides of the hill. On our right were 
meadows of bearded rice, a variety which Dr. Lynah declared to be unknown 
in the southern States. The country now became open and undulating, and cov- 
ered with the richest vegetation ; not only was all the low land planted with 
rice, but the hills were in many places terraced nearly to the top, and the water 
carefully conducted from field to field by artificial channels. The streams were 
lined with thick hedges of banana, and the knolls which dotted the landscape 
were crowned with groves of the Lew Chew pine, a beautiful tree, strongly 
resembling the cedar of Lebanon in its flat horizontal layers of foliage ; it is 
probably a new species. There was something in the forms of the landscape 
which reminded me of the richest English scenery, mixed with the superb 
vegetation of the tropics. The views on each side increased in beauty as we 
approached Sheudi, the capital city of the island, which is scattered along the 
southwest slope of a group of hills. The houses are half buried in foliage, and 
stretch over an extent of a mile, the citadel, or residence of the viceroy, oc- 
cupying an elevated central position. 

The day was dark and cloudy, threatening rain, and fresh wind blew in 



A LEW CHEW CUNG QUA. 189 

our faces as we climbed the heights. Near the summit we passed through a 
high wooden gate, upon which were inscribed two Chinese characters, (signi- 
fying " the central hill," or " place of authority,") and entered the main street 
of the city, which is broad, handsomely paved, and lined with high walls, be- 
hind which, and the foliage of their gardens, the principal dwellings are 
mostly concealed. As we reached the gate, the flag was unrolled, and fastened 
upon the end of a musket. A fine grove of old trees, with crooked trunks, 
gnarled boughs, and thick, dark-green foliage, attracted my attention on en- 
tering. We had not proceeded fifty paces before the officers attending us 
beckoned to us to enter a doorway on the right side of the street. We made a 
halt, and, leaving men and coolies outside, went in. It proved to be a Cung- 
qud, or resting jjlace for travellers, or rather for officers of government, since 
in Lew Chew there are no other travellers. The Cung-qua corresponds very 
nearly to the Turkish khan, except that, being used only by persons of some 
consideration it is far more neat and elegant in every respect. The house into 
which we were ushered resembled a private dwelling of the better class. The 
principal apartment was carpeted with very fine soft mats, and surrounded on 
three sides by an open verandah. Adjoining the building were kitchens and 
out-houses for servants, and in front a small yard planted with sago palms and 
a tree resembling the Inocarpus. We were politely received by a gentleman 
in a gray robe, who performed the ko-tow towards us in the most approved 
style. Seats were brought, and tea, prepared after the Chinese fashion, served 
in small -cups. . The attendant was directed, by signs, to wait first upon Mr. 
Jones, who was thenceforth recognized as the head of the party. The for- 
mer served us on his knees, both when he offered and when he took away the 
cups. We remained but a few minutes, and took our leave, evidently to the 
surprise and perplexity of our conductors, who did not as yet comprehend 
our object. 

On leaving Napha, we had noticed an expression of doubt and anxiety 
upon the faces of the natives, and this rather increased as we proceeded. No 
remonstrance whatever was made to us, but our movements were suspiciously 
scrutinized. When, therefore, we left the Cung-qua, and instead of returning 
took our course directly onward through the city, the faces of our convoy be- 
came clouded, and an expression of alarm communicated itself to those of the 
natives whose curiosity had attracted them around us. We soon reached the 
gate of the citadel, at the foot of the massive walls, which, rising through 
groves of trees, dominate over the city. The gate was closed, but had it 
been open, we should not have presumed to enter. The northern and eastern 
slope of the hill is covered with splendid old trees, divided by winding, shaded 
avenues, on the sides of which many natives were sitting, with fans in their 
hands. The sun, which shone out hot and clear for an instant, chequered 
this rich park-like scenery with strong contrasts of light and shadow, and 
down through the depths of the trees illuminated the face of a pool of water, 



190 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

SO completely covered with the floating leaves of a species of lily as to appear 
like a patch of green sward. We passed around the base of the citadel to its 
eastern side, and after some deliberation, took a paved road which led through 
the suburbs of the city in an E. S. E. direction. Wherever we turned we 
could see scouts running in advance, and driving the inhabitants away from 
our path, so that a silence and desertion, like that which follows pestilence, 
took place wherever we moved. All with whom we accidentally came in con- 
tact saluted us politely, but with a settled air of melancholy, which I ascribed 
to the surveillance exercised over them by an unnatural government, rather 
than any ill-will towards us. 

The northern side of Sheudi is a wilderness of rich vegetation. The ap- 
pearance of a flourishing cocoa-palm, now and then, showed that the climate 
is entirely tropical. The eastern suburb of the capital is composed princi- 
pally of bamboo huts, thatched with rice straw. The inhabitants were all 
hidden away out of sight, and blinds of split bamboo let down before the 
doors. We took a road which led along the hills towards the southeast, and 
after issuing from the capital, gained a ridge whence we could see a long 
line of the western coast, with the squadron riding at anchor in the harbor of 
Napha. From this point the interest of the journey properly commenced, as 
we were entering upon ground which no one before us had ever explored. 
The limit of the excursions made by others was Sheudi, and very few suc- 
ceeded in entering that capital. We were, therefore, greatly enlivened by 
the prospect before us, and pursued our way with more alacrity than com- 
ported with the comfort of our disheartened conductors. 

About a mile from Sheudi, the road turned more to the east, and after 
passing through a dense wood, came out upon a hill, whence we caught a 
glimpse of the sea on the eastern side. A temple apparently erected during 
the past year, (for it was destitute of either altar or god,) stood in the shade 
of a clump of pines, and as it was now one o'clock we halted for refreshment. 
Some of the natives brought water, while the men picked up sufficient dead 
wood to boil our kettle, and in the course of time we were regaled with tea 
and ship's biscuit. We offered the former to the officers, but they did not ap- 
pear to relish it. The Lew Chew coolies, however, ate heartily of the bis- 
cuit, which they had better earned than our vagabond Chinese. They gave 
the name of the place as Pino. Mr. Heine took a sketch of it, and astonished 
the natives, some forty or fifty of whom had collected to look at us, by firing 
at a mark with his rifle. Immediately after leaving Piiio, whence we started 
at 3 p. m., the paved road ceased and the way became deep and miry. The 
soil was a lead-colored, stiff clay, the disintegration of shale rock, which here 
appeared for the first time. We had not proceeded more than half a mile 
before we reached the dividing ridge or crest of the island, and a magnificent 
panorama opened below us to the eastward. The sea-line of the Pacific 
formed the horizon, and a spacious sheet of water between two headlands 



EXPLORATION OF LEW OHEW. 191 

which made out from the island led us to suppose that we were looking upon 
Barrow's Bay. Between us and the sea lay an amphitheatre of hills, culti- 
vated to their very tops and clothed with the greenest verdure. Their sides 
were carefully terraced, and every advantage taken of the inclination of the 
soil, so as to collect the rains for irrigation. The cultivation was quite as 
patient and thorough as that of China. The picturesque formation of 
the hills gave a great variety of outline to the landscape, which embraced 
a compass of perhaps twenty miles. Towards the west we overlooked all 
the country we had passed, as far as a headland in the northwest which I 
took to be Cape Broughton. Mr. Heine took a sketch of the view, looking 
eastward, while I attempted to take the western side. 

Resuming our march, we descended the ridge, which was about 600 feet 
above the sea-level. The clayey path leading down was very wet and slip- 
pery, and the coolies fell and rolled over several times with the baggage. 
Passing through gaps between the lower hills, we reached a semi-circular 
plain, nearly two miles in breadth, extending around the head of the bay. 
On either side was a village of thatched huts, buried in trees. The scouts 
had already been before us, and the natives lay concealed in their habitations 
The former supposed that we would take a road leading to a large village at 
the head of the bay, but as we turned abruptly to the northward, we soon 
saw them running across the fields to regain the road ahead of us. There 
were a number of villages at the base of the hills, on our left, but so thickly 
studded with trees that tl^ey were almost concealed from view. I collected 
a number of plants, one of them a species of althaea, with a splendid scarlet 
blossom. The road which we took led through the rice fields and was very 
deep and muddy. While stopping to rest on a bridge over one of the irriga- 
ting streams, our old conductor came up with his two assistants, and intima- 
ted to us by signs that it was time we should return to the ships. The sun 
would soon set, they said, and we should have no place to sleep. We replied, 
(also by signs,) that instead of returning we were going northward and would 
not reach the ships again for five or six days. They appeared greatly sur- 
prised at this and a little troubled, since it was part of their duty not to lose 
sight of us. The old fellow, who, in his haste to keep up, had slipped down in 
the muddy road and soiled the hinder part of his robe, laughed heartily at the 
accident, and finally became resigned to the prospect of the long tramp be- 
fore him. They then pointed to the west, saying that there was a Cung-qu^ 
in that direction, where we could spend the night. Our course, however, 
was nearly northeast, and about half past five, having reached a hill over- 
looking the bay, on the summit of which was an open space surrounded with 
young pines, we determined to encamp there. The people objected to our 
cutting down the trees, and we made tentpoles by fastening together the 
bamboo staves used by the coolies. There was a village on the slope of the 
hill below us, and after some delay, caused by the difficulty of interpreting our 



192 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

wants to the native officials, we obtained four fowls, forty eggs, and two bun- 
dles of firewood. One of our Chinamen, " A-shing," professed to speak the 
Lew Chew language, but we soon found him as miserably deficient in this as 
he was in all other useful qualities. His comrade, however, who spoke no 
English, could write Chinese, and the message having been thus communica- 
ted and written, was finally read by the old Pe-ching. The latter refused to 
accept either " cash " or dollars, saying that they were of no use to the peo- 
ple whatever, but that everything we needed would be furnished us. The 
Chinese suggested — probably on their own account — that we should pay the 
people in ship's biscuit, but we had scarcely enough for our own wants. It 
was at length decided that we should take what we required and settle for 
its value with the Pe-ching on our return. 

The people were tardy in bringing our firewood, and we were obliged to 
eat our supper by the light of our camp fire. I succeeded in getting a sketch 
of the bay, while daylight remained. It is deep and spacious, and protected 
by reefs across the mouth, but, judging from the appearance of the water, too 
shallow to be made available for naval purposes. A large village lies at its 
head, and several fishing junks were at anchor before it. At night the plain 
sparkled with lights, some of them moving to and fro — probably lanterns car- 
ried by persons passing from one village to another. The officers determined 
to remain with us at all hazards, and at their command the people brought up 
bamboo poles and matting, out of which they erected a temporary structure be- 
side our tent. They were perfectly good humored in their demeanor, and sub- 
mitted with great patience to what they could not avoid. Before going to sleep 
we arranged four watches of two hours each, from 9 p. m. until 5 a. m., and the 
subordinate native policemen kindled a fire and kept a counter-watch. We 
were all somewhat fatigued with our first march of ten miles, but the mos- 
quitos were so terribly annoying that few of us slept more than half an hour 
during the whole night. 

We rose at dawn, and found the natives already stirring. The morning 
gave promise of fair weather. The Pe-ching and his associates came up and 
saluted us gravely as soon as we arose. It required about two hours to cook 
and eat breakfast, strike the tent, and pack the baggage for carrying. When 
we were all ready we found eight native coolies on hand, those whom we took 
from Napha having returned the evening previous. Leaving Camp Perry 
(as we named the spot) we took a path leading up a steep hill to the north. 
Winding around its brow, we descended into a valley, surrounded by abrupt, 
scarped hills. A stream flowing at the bottom of a deep gully, overhung 
with large banana trees, made its way out of this broad cul-de-sac towards 
the sea. We crossed the valley on the ridges of swampy grass, between the 
flooded rice-fields, and climbed a long and toilsome ridge, by wet, slippery 
paths, leading up through copses of young pine. We had now gained the 
spinal ridge of the island, and turned northwestward, over alternate hills 




■mi 

:. ■■ mri^^^^m-^ ^^■-^fW'' ^' ^ 



EXPLORATION OF LEW CHEW. 193 

and meadows, along its summit. The wood was principally pine, but [ ob- 
served several new varieties of shrubs, not in flower. Now and then we passed 
the huts of the natives, generally in clusters of two and three, but even in 
this secluded region notice of our coming had reached them, and the inhabit- 
ants were hidden. I looked into some, and found the interiors to consist of 
a single room, smoke-blackened, and furnished with the rudest utensils. Two 
of them had a grating of bamboo, raised, like a floor, about six inches above 
the ground, and the thick mats which serve the Lew Chewans as beds were 
spread upon this. 

Mr. Jones left the camp before us, and we had not yet found him. Com- 
ing to a deep, wooded gorge, with a stream flowing westward, we discovered 
that our true course lay further to the east, and retraced our steps through 
the pine woods, and over upland rice-meadows to an open, grassy height, 
whence we saw Mr. Jones, surrounded by a group of natives, about half a 
mile to the south of us. In a short time we again reached the summit ridge, 
overlooking the bay, and enjoyed the view of a superb landscape. The 
dividing ridge of the island, as we had already noticed, is nearest the eastern 
shore, to which the descent is much more abrupt than on the western. The 
cultivation on this side is also more thorough, and the crops more luxuriant. 
The knees of the mountains below us were feathered with beautiful groves of 
the Lew Chew pine, intermingled with terraced fields of grain and vegetables, 
while the plain below, through its whole sweep of fifteen miles, was brown 
with its harvest of rice. We counted a dozen villages, some of them of con- 
siderable size, dotting its expanse. To the northward extended a long head- 
land, far beyond what we had supposed to be the extremity of the bay, and 
projecting from the island in a southeasterly direction. It was now plain 
that we had not yet reached Barrow's Bay, of which this headland formed 
the southern boundary. While halting to rest our coolies, in the shade of a 
clump of pines, Mr. Heine shot a raven, with a beak much broader than the 
European species. There was a very large tomb, of a shape nearly circular, 
on the northern side of the ridge. About two miles further, the road swerv- 
ing a little to the west, we came upon a singular rock, rising high out of a 
forest of pines. The summit, which was very sharp and jagged, was seventy 
or eighty feet above the crest of the ridge, and being composed of secondary 
limestone, honeycombed by the weather, it was an exceedingly striking and 
picturesque object. While Mr. Heine stopped to sketch it, and Mr. Jones 
to examine its geology, I climbed to the summit, which was so sharp as to 
make it a most uneasy seat. Finding that it was the highest peak in that 
part of the island, commanding a view which embraced a considerable reach 
of both shores, I ordered the flag to be brought, and unfurled it from the 
top of the rock, while the men fired a salute from the base and hailed it with 
three hearty cheers. We bestowed upon it the name of " Banner Kock." 
The natives looked on, unable how to understand our proceedings, but not in 
13 



194 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

the least troubled by them. A little to the north of where we were the 
island narrowed suddenly, between the head of the eastern bay and a deep 
bight, which makes in on the western side, between Cape Broughton and the 
headland bounding Port Melville on the west. I judged its breadth, at this 
point, to be about four miles, in a straight line. To the southwest I could 
see the position of Sheudi, eight or ten miles distant. The landscape was 
rich and varied, all the hills being coated with groves of pine. We found 
on the rock the "Wax plant" of our greenhouses, in full bloom, the splendid 
scarlet AUhcea, and a variety of the Malva, with a large yellow blossom. 

Continuing our march along the summit ridge, we came gradually upon 
a wilder and more broken region. Huge fragments of the same dark lime- 
stone rock overhung our path, or lay tumbled along the slopes below us, as 
if hurled there by some violent natural convulsion. As the hill curved east- 
ward, we saw on its southern side a series of immense square masses, separated 
by deep fissures, reaching down the side nearly to its base. They were ap- 
parently fifty feet high, and at least a hundred feet square, and their tops 
were covered with a thick growth of trees and shrubbery. In the absence 
of any traces of volcanic action, it is difficult to conceive how these detached 
masses were distributed with such regularity, and carried to such a distance 
from their original place. The eastern front of the crags under which we 
passed was studded with tombs, some of them built against the rock and 
whitewashed, like the tombs of the present inhabitants, but others excavated 
within it, and evidently of great age. Looking down upon the bay it was 
easy to see that the greater part of it was shallow, and in some places the 
little fishing junks could not approach within half a mile of the shore. The 
rice-fields were brought square down to the water's edge, which was banked 
up to prevent the tide from overflowing them, and I noticed many triangular 
stone dykes, stretching some distance into the water, and no doubt intended 
as weirs for fish. 

In less than an hour after leaving Banner Bock we were surprised by the 
discovery of an ancient fortress, occupying a commanding position upon the 
summit of one of the spurs of the central ridge. Its outline was irregular, 
but with a general direction from northeast to southwest ; and while some 
parts of it were in perfect preservation, other portions were overgrown with 
vines and shrubbery, and hardly to be distinguished from the natural rock 
upon which it was based. Passing through an arched gateway, the road led 
to a terrace overgrown with trees, upon which stood a structure of masonry 
resembling a cenotaph. A flight of stone steps conducted us to another gate- 
way, after passing which, and a spacious vestibule, we entered the interior 
of the fortress. The space was occupied by a luxuriant grove of trees, and 
at the further end was a private dwelling of respectable appearance. Our 
Pe-ching was already there, and the master (whom our Chinese coolies des- 
ignated the " Japanese Consul ") respectfully invited us to enter. The day 






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EXPLORATION OF LEW CHEW. 



195 



"was oppressively hot, and we found two or three cups of Lew Chew tea an 
agreeable refreshment. Returning to the terrace, at the base of the outer 
wall, we halted in the shade to allow the men their mid-day rest and meal. 
A flight of steep steps, cut in the rock, led downward on the northern side to 
a grotto under the foundation of the castle, at the bottom of which was a 
pool of cold, sweet water. The place was completely overhung by dense fo- 
liage, and inaccessible to the beams of the sun. 

While our meal was preparing, Mr. Jones traced out a rough plan of the 
fortress, and the men took measurements. 

The material was limestone, and the masonry of admirable construction, 
the stones, some of which were cubes of four feet square, were so carefully 
hewn and jointed that the absence of any mortar or cement did not seem to 
impair the durability of the work. There were two remarkable points about 
the work. The arches were double, the lower course being formed of two 
stones hewn into almost a parabolic curve, and meeting in the centre, over 
which was the regular Egyptian arch, with its key-stone, as represented in 
the annexed outline. No, 1. 

The other peculiarity 
was, that in place of bas- 
tions, there were square 
projections of masonry, 
presenting a concave front, 
(No. 2,) which would catch 
and concentrate the force 
of a cannon ball, rather 
than ward it ofi". But this 
fortress must have been 
erected many centuries be- 
fore the use of fire arms of 
any kind could have been 
known to the Lew Chew- 
ans. Our Chinese pre- 
tended to give the name of 
the place as Ching- King, which are Chinese words, signifying the chief or 
capital citadel. 

We resumed our march at half past one o'clock. The old Pe-ching 
" Chang- Yuen," who had become a little fatigued by this time, took a ka-goo, 
or Lew Chew chair, and followed in our rear, leaving the particular charge 
of us to his subordinates. The scouts were sent ahead, as usual, fof our path 
descended again to the populous plain at the base of the hills. We already 
perceived indications of a fixed system in the espionage to which we were sub- 
jected. Chang-Yuen and his two secondary oJ05cers were deputed to accom- 
pany us during the whole journey, while their dozen or more attendants and 




J^2 



196 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

helpers were changed as we passed from one district of the island into another. 
Nothing could exceed the vigilance with which they watched us. We might 
separate into as many divisions as there were men, and yet each of us would 
still retain his native convoy. We could neither tire them down, nor run 
away from them. When, by chance, we suddenly changed our course, we 
still found them before us. And though this was the result of a jealous and 
exclusive system, yet they managed to give it the appearance of being done 
through respect for us. 

I was curious to obtain some information regarding the domestic life of 
the natives, and frequently entered their huts unawares, in the hope of find- 
ing them at their avocations within. In most cases I found the huts deserted, 
but in some others caught the merest glimpses of Lew Chew life, in its more 
humble aspects. Near the castle, while our convoy was passing around a 
village, I slipped into one of the alleys and entered a bamboo enclosure, 
within which were five neat dwellings. The mats were let down before the 
doors, but the people were all hidden behind screens and in lofts under the 
thatch, for on looking in I found no one but a child and an old man, who 
immediately knelt down and knocked his forehead on the floor before me. 
In another hut, in a village on the plain, I found an old woman and a 
girl of about twelve years of age, both of whom fell on their knees, and held 
up their hands with an expression which was at once imploring and rev- 
erential. A few words of friendly greeting, though in English, encouraged 
them, and I should no doubt have been able to inspect the interior of the 
hut, had not one of the spies come up at that moment and driven them 
away. 

In the rich rice plains to which we descended we found sugar-cane for 
the first time, sorghum^ or millet, and three varieties of the grain known in 
the United States as " broom-corn." The road struck out into the swampy 
rice fields, and we made for a green headland covered with pines. A village, 
almost completely buried in bowers and arcades of bamboo, lay at its foot. 
As we were about entering, we came upon two curious stones planted in the 
earth. The largest was about four feet high, and from its peculiar form 
struck me at once as a lingam, or emblem of the Phallic worship. The 
same idea occurred to Mr. Heine, who made a sketch of it. It was a very 
hard dark-colored stone resembling porphyry, and the only thing we could 
learn from the natives respecting it was, that they called it "isAee." There 
is no trace of this feature of the Hindoo religion existing either in Japan, 
China, or Lew Chew. The discovery of this stone, if it should prove to be 
a Phallic emblem, is therefore exceedingly curious. In the course of the 
afternoon we found two more, one of which was prostrate and broken. In 
conjunction with these remains, the face of the hill behind, for a distance of 
two miles, is almost entirely covered with excavated tombs, resembling the 
simpler forms of the rock tombs of Egypt and Syria. Our native conduc- 



EXPLORATION OF LEW CHEW. 197 

tors, when interrogated respecting them, called them " the houses of the 
devil's men," and seemed amused at our taking notice of them. This fact, 
in a country where ancestral tombs are considered sacred, as among the 
Chinese, seems to point to the existence of another race on the island, in 
ancient times — a race who may have received the worship of the Lingam 
from Java, or other islands where memorials of it exist. 

After an unavailing attempt to shoot a couple of herons in a rice field, 
we kept a course nearly due north, passing through several beautiful villages. 
The houses were surrounded with banana trees, and the alleys completely 
overarched with bamboo. In one of the houses I found a woman weaving 
grass-cloth in a loom of primitive construction. She ceased from work as I 
approached the door, but commenced again, in obedience to my gestures. 
The shuttle was a little longer than the breadth of the stufi", and thrown by 
hand. At the foot of the hill. Dr. Lynah found a piece of lignite, which 
resembles coal, but is unfortunately no indication of its presence. We had 
a long and toilsome ascent up a barren hill which brought us again upon a 
cultivated upland. There were three or four cattle grazing here, the first 
we had noticed since leaving Napha. We saw a horse now and then, but this 
animal appeared to be scarce. The dividing ridge between the bays was 
about three miles in advance, and though the afternoon was nigh spent, and 
the whole party was considerably fatigued, we determined to get sight of 
Barrow's Bay before encamping. At last we reached a large village on the 
western slope of the ridge. It was surrounded with plantations of banana, 
and a tall pine grove towered over it. Through a deep road gate, cut in 
the crest of the hill, a fine picture of Barrow's Bay and the mountains 
beyond presented itself to our view. The southern shore of the bay was 
about three miles distant, and a singular range of rocks, rising in detached 
square masses like the walls and towers of a ruined city, intervened. The 
landscape was more richly wooded than those on the southern bay, and the 
outlines of the hills were rounder and more gently undulating. We seemed 
to have reached a region of a different geological character. We were 
about to pitch our tent at this place, when the native officers gave us to 
imderstand that there was a Cung-qitd a short distance further, and urged 
us so strongly to go on that we shouldered our muskets and haversacks and 
started again. But we had a rough tramp of nearly three miles further, 
and finally came, with bruised feet and aching shoulders, upon the last 
descent to Barrow's Bay. Picturesque crags studded the hillside, and a 
large village, completely covered with thickets of banana and bamboo, lay 
before us. Over it towered a tall crag, rent through the centre and sur- 
mounted with a square rock, like a ruined tower. We threaded the village 
by shaded alleys, and at the further end, on a spot commanding a fine view 
of the bay, found a handsome Cung-qud^ in an enclosure planted with trees. 
A dignitary of some kind welcomed us, and we were at once served with 



198 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

small cups of excellent tea. The soft, thick mats, the shelter and comfort 
of the building, were well worth the fatigue of our forced march. Fresh 
water in earthen jars, with a square wooden ladle floating on the top, 
stood ready for us, and there was a kitchen in the rear where our men 
could cook conveniently. The Pe-ching came in after sunset and greeted 
us with much cordiality. Eggs and fowls were immediately furnished, and, 
as at our former camp, all payment was refused. The utmost curiosity 
appeared to prevail in the village respecting us, and, as it grew dark, the 
circle of heads peering over the wall enclosing the Cung-qua increased 
rapidly till there could not have been less than two or three hundred. 
Fires were kindled all around us, and the ruddy glow thrown up by them 
and by the torches carried back and forth, flickered brilliantly over the 
dusky foliage of the trees. 

A watch was set as before, and the mosquitoes being less annoying we 
all enjoyed a tolerable rest. The Chinamen were, or feigned to be, com- 
pletely spent, and for the greater part of the day the baggage had been 
carried by Lew Chew coolies. The patience, good humor, and endurance 
of the latter, quite put to shame the worthless and deceitful creatures whom 
we had been indiscreet enough to bi'ing with us. The natives kept their 
counter-march, and on rising before sunrise the next morning, we found that 
fifty or sixty of them had passed the night at their camp fires. The object 
of the officer in having a watch kept seemed to be both to prevent any of us 
from stealing a march upon them during the night, and to hinder any of the 
natives from annoying us. 

Mr. Jones made application for a boat to carry us across the bay, but 
there was none to be had. The name of the village to which the Cung-qua 
belonged was " Missikya." We set our little file in motion and proceeded, 
by a pleasant path, over level land, a mile or two inland. The cultivation 
was thorough, but confined mostly to beans and sweet potatoes. The villages 
were so hidden away behind their alleys of tall, arched bamboo that the 
police scouts had little need to precede us. A native guard ran ahead ; but 
as he constantly took the left-hand road, leading into the middle of the 
island, evidently with a view of conducting us back to Sheudi, we &ially 
halted at the foot of an isolated hill, covered with wood, and held a consul- 
tation. The wild mountain-range north of Barrow's Bay now appeared on 
our right, and it was plain that our course was leading us away from the 
head of the bay, which we desired to reach. We, therefore, turned, in spite 
of the protestations of the guide and the native officers, and passed around 
the eastern brow of the hill, whereon we found two grottoes of soft limestone 
rock. The scenery here was a charming mixture of pine forest and culti- 
vated field ; and both in its features and its prevailing hue of dark-green 
resembled the landscapes of southern Germapy. 

In the bottom of the valley was a stream lined with bristling ranks of 



EXPLORATION OF LEW CHEW. 199 

the pandaniis, or false pine apple. "We were obliged to pull off our boots 
and wade. We here found a shrub with small white bL ssoms and bright- 
green milky leaves; another with yellow berries of a powerful aromatic 
taste ; and a liliaceous plant, with a racine of flowers resembling those of 
the snap-dragon, but white in hue, with a fringed lip of the richest orange. 
At one of the villages on the plain I noticed the plum and the orange, and 
a new variety of the banyan, with very small glossy leaves. Beyond the 
stream we struck into fragrant pine woods, and finally into a deEse forest, 
where the path was still wet and slippery from the rains, and the branches, 
meeting overhead, made a perpetual shade. There were few flowers, and 
still fewer birds, in this wilderness. In fact, the scarcity of birds all over 
the island, considering that they are not destroyed by the natives, is rather 
singular. The day was very clear and hot, and the trees, while they shaded 
us, quite shut off the sea breeze. The foliage was almost tropical, consist- 
ing of dense glossy-leaved shrubs and luxuriant ferns, overtopped by woods 
of pine. Smaller paths branched off here and there to the distant huts of 
the woodmen. After ascending for more than two miles, we crossed a ridge 
and the path became gradually more open, exposing a view to the west, over 
high hills, covered entirely with copsewood and patches of pine forest. The 
country resembled the wild lands of America. There were swamps in the 
hollows, and we began to look out for the wild boars which are said to exist 
in this part of the island. Catching another view to the eastward, we 
found ourselves near the head of Barrow's Bay, and after a half hour's halt, 
to rest the coolies, set out again. Our official escort came up during the 
halt, much fatigued, but as cordial and good-humored as ever. Indeed, 
considering that all their trouble and fatigue was caused by ourselves, we 
had every reason to admire the unshaken patience with which they submitted 
to our apparently wayward course. 

Crossing another hill, we passed down broad, well-trodden paths, shaded 
by magnificent arches of foliage, through a neat village. The houses were 
larger than usual, and there was an aspect of greater wealth. Among the 
trees was one fifteen feet high, covered with cream-colored blossoms, which 
exhaled the fragrance of nutmeg. An avenue of pines led down from this 
lovely spot to a narrow plain at the head of Barrow's Bay. The rice 
growing in these parts was very scanty and not yet in head. A large village, 
buried in trees, extended for half a mile inland from the sea shore. "We took 
a path leading down to the beach ; but Mr. Jones, who was in advance, 
entered the village, where he was very courteously received and twice 
presented with tea and pipes. The exhibition of his watch, and a pocket 
microscope, excited the unbounded wonder of the natives. The village was 
named " Isitza." 

We forded a salt creek and pitched our noonday camp on a piny knoll, 
at the foot of the hills. As Mr. Jones had not arrived, we fastened our flag 



200 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

to the top of a tree and fired signals. I took a bath in the sea, with the 
men, while our kettle was boiling. The water was excessively saline, and 
the fine white particles of salt covered my face like dust as it became dry. 
At this point Mr. Jones found a stratum of gneiss, for the first time, at the 
water's edge. Our native friends drank three cups of our tea and asked for 
some biscuits, which they seemed to relish. Before starting again we had a 
talk with them about the route. We wished to reach a point on the coast 
north of Barrow's Bay, marked as " Kaneja " on our copy of the Japanese 
chart of Lew Chew. The ofiicers did not seem to recognize any such place, 
though they spoke of " Kannah," where there was a Cung-qua, 30 /i, or ten 
miles distant, and we decided to reach it, if possible. 

We left at half-past one, taking one of the natives as a guide. The path 
followed the line of the bay, and we walked, for two hours, in deep sand and 
crushed shells, around curve and headland. It was very toilsome work, 
especially as the glare of the sand struck directly in our faces. The beach 
was narrow and bordered with thick hedges of the pandanus, the fruit of 
which resembles that of the pine apple. The mountains on our left were 
wild and uncultivated. There were occasional paths striking up their sides; 
but, although the compass told us that the shore-path led us out of our true 
course, the guide refused to take any of them. At the end of two hours we 
reached a large village, where the guide, who had followed us from " Isitza," 
levied a substitute and turned back. A two-masted junk, of thirty or forty 
tons' burden, lay at anchor in a cove near this place. We were now ap- 
proaching the northern extremity of Barrow's Bay, and had a full view of 
the long headland south of it, and the four islands which lie, like a break- 
water, across its mouth. The bay appeared to be extremely shallow, except 
near the entrance ; and I doubt whether it would be of much value, as a 
harbor, for shipping of large size. 

The path, finally, turned off to the north up a steep hill, which brought 
us upon a rolling upland, covered with abundance of wood. The mountains 
we had passed exhibited an outline similar to the Catskills, and there was 
nothing in the scenery to remind us of the vicinity of the tropics. We 
presently entered a fine, broad avenue of pines, at the extremity of 
which appeared a handsome house with a tiled roof Our native conductors 
passed on into some bamboo arches, which denoted a village beyond ; but I 
slipped suddenly into the open entrance and found a spacious house in the 
midst of a garden, with a small Buddhist temple beside it. Quick as my 
motions had been, the mats were already let down before all the doors, and 
nobody was to be seen. Before the house was a plant about ten feet high, 
with large scarlet panicles of flowers, I had barely time to break off a 
cluster when one of our officers came hurrying up and urged me, by signs 
and words, to leave, saying that the Bunyo, or Governor, as he designated 
Mr. Jones, had gone on. I, therefore, followed him through the village to 



EXPLORATION OF LEW CHEW. 201 

a Cung-qua, wliich was larger and finer than any we had yet seen. It was 
like an elegant private residence ; having a garden, enclosed by a square, 
clipped hedge of jessamine, and a separate establishment for servants and 
attendants. There were rows of chrysanthemums (a flower much esteemed 
by the Japanese) and two peach trees in the garden, besides a stout camellia^ 
clipped into a fanciful shape. We installed ourselves in the chief apartment, 
on the soft matting, while the Pe-ching and his train took the other building. 
The only supplies we could procure were raw salt fish and sweet potatoes, 
with some roots of a native onion, pickled in salt. Neither fowls nor eggs 
could be found. The natives gave thj name of the village as " Ching," 
which, being a Chinese word, is evidently incorrect ; but we could get no 
other. The paper screens between the rooms were removed on our arrival, 
tea was brought in, and the natives busied themselves to make us comfort- 
able ; but the same unrelaxing espionage, as at " Missikya," was kept up 
through the whole night. Again camp-fires were kindled and guards posted 
around us, while crowds of curious natives peeped from behind the bushes 
and walls to gratify their desire of seeing us. Mr. Heine, who had the first 
watch, went out to the camp fire, showed the people his watch, and other 
curiosities, and soon had a large crowd of villagers gathered about him ; 
but one of the officers making his appearance, a single word of command 
scattered them in all directions, and they did not return again. In the 
evening I offered a handful of cash to one of the boys who had accompanied 
us from Napha. He refused it very earnestly, as there were two other boys 
standing near ; but, watching an opportunity, when he was alone, I offered it 
again, when he immediately accepted it, with gestures expressive of his 
thanks. 

The Pe-ching, who had fallen in the rear, came up after dark, and 
immediately sought us, to make his salutations. We found that he and his 
associates had been keeping a journal of our proceedings, and had already 
filled a roll of paper several yards in length with their remarks. We had 
but few mosquitoes, and slept so well that I had some difficulty in rising for 
the mid-watch. After much search, two tough old hens were found for our 
breakfast, which we ate under the scrutiny of an hundred eyes, continually 
peering at us over walls, or popping out from behind bushes. Whenever 
we noticed any of them the heads disappeared, but they returned again as 
soon as our gaze was removed. 

We were now commencing our fourth day, and it was time to think of 
turning back shortly. After some consultation, it was determined to follow 
the coast for a short distance further, then strike across the island in the 
direction of Port Melville, and reach in the evening a point on the western 
shore corresponding to the latitude of our present camp. On starting, the 
native officers were very urgent in requesting us to take a road leadiag west- 
ward. We kept, however, a course nearly due north, and soon reached a 



202 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

hill, whence there was an excellent view of the country on all sides. The 
northern headland of Barrow's Bay lay behind us. The general direction 
of the coast in advance was N.E., stretching away to a distant promon- 
tory. A spinal ridge of mountains, covered with a wilderness of forests, 
ran parallel with the coast, leaving a narrow strip of cultivated land next 
the sea. A column of smoke ascended from one of the northern peaks, 
which we judged (and rightly, as it afterwards proved) to be a fire in the 
woods. 

Mr. Jones decided to make for a gorge between two peaks, about six 
miles distant, and rather to the east of north. We crossed a deep valley, 
with a salt creek at its bottom, and, after following the coast for some time, 
took a road which, after ascending a long barren ridge, plunged into the 
woods. The farther we advanced, the more dense became the wilderness. 
The only persons we met were woodmen, whom we saw occasionally felling 
trees with their rude axes. The path was narrow, wet, and slippery, and 
for two or three miles a continual ascent. At length we reached a conical 
peak covered with trees. The ascent was very difficult, and I halted with 
the coolies at the base, while Mr. Jones, Dr. Lynah, and Mr. Heine, went 
up to obtain a view. By climbing the trees and cutting away some of the 
limbs, they opened space for a grand central panorama of the island, which 
Mr. Heine set about sketching from the tree-top. The path, which by this 
time had dwindled almost out of sight, passed directly over the summit. 
We found the ascent like a staircase, and were obliged to use hands and feet 
to reach the top. The Lew Chew coolies who carried our baggage made 
their way up with great difficulty. As we were all suffering from thirst, I 
started in advance, with the seaman Mitchell, the Chinamen, and the cool- 
ies. The path, which was now a faint woodman's trail, did not appear to 
have been travelled for months. It was shut in by a species of small bamboo, 
so dense as almost to exclude light, and a large, red, hairy spider had woven 
innumerable webs across it. Now ascending, now descending, we pushed 
ourselves or crept through the almost impervious copse wood, for nearly 
two miles, till the path became more open, and a partial look-out to the 
westward showed us the China Sea. On the side of the nearest peak to the 
northward, we distinctly saw the woods on fire, and a bare space of about ten 
acres studded with charred trunks. The descent was very slippery, but 
becoming more and more open, I at length recognized our position. We 
were approaching the head of the deep bight south of Port Melville, and 
separated from it by an arm of the island, which stretches out to the 
northwest, at right angles to the main body. The curious peaked island 
called the " Sugar Loaf," off the point of this promontory, was in view 
before us. The western slope of the island at this point is covered almost 
entirely with forests, the cultivation being confined to the bottoms of val- 
leys and ravines opening upon the sea. 



EXPLORATION OF LEW CHEW. 203 

The patli led across the top of a narrow ledge about a yard wide, with 
chasms more than a -hundred feet deep on each side, and then dropped to 
the bottom of the glen, where we found a stream of deliciously cool and 
sweet water. We all drank to excess, and then climbed a little ridge 
beyond, where the air blew fresh, and sat down to await the rest of the 
party. Mr. Jones found granite of fine quality in the ravine, and we after- 
wards met with another broad stratum in a rocky gateway further below. 
Our only path made for a village on the shore, whither we repaired for our 
mid-day halt. The houses were lined with luxuriant bananas, in blossom, 
and the lanes between them hedged with the glossy inocarpus^ forming 
walls of foliage twenty feet in height, outside of which were neat wicker 
fences of split bamboo. Near the village were three structures raised upon 
timber frames, and covered with thatched roofs. They appeared to be store- 
houses, elevated in this manner to preserve the grain from the moisture of 
the earth. Beneath them were wooden platforms, offering us shade and 
convenience for our halt. The people brought us sweet potatoes, a small 
pan of salt fish, and a pumpkin, which was all they could supply. Even 
these were refused us until the arrival of the Pe-ching, to whose authority 
all the others deferred. The rapidity of our march had left him in the rear, 
but he came up after an hour, and set himself to work with great good 
humor to supply our wants. In order to shield themselves from the heat 
of the sun, some of his attendants had tied banana leaves around their 
heads, and they all complained of fatigue. 

We left Ny-komma, as the village was called, about half past two. At 
this, the most northern point we reached, we could not have been more than 
eight or nine miles distant from Port Melville. The intervening land was 
low, and another day would have enabled us to reach the head of that 
harbor. The native officials explained to us by signs, and by tracing lines 
on the sand, that the road to Sheudi lay along the beach, and that there was 
a Cung-qua about 20 li distant. We tramped along sandy beaches and 
over stony headlands, following the general course of the shore, and never 
diverging far from it. The bay, or bight, marked with numerous abrupt 
indentations, presented some fine bold outlines of shore. Off the many 
inferior promontories lay rocky islets, covered with rich vegetation. The 
wooded mountains on our left were the same which we had skirted the day 
previous on the northern side of Barrow-^s Bay. The lower slopes on this 
side were partially cultivated, but the principal thoroughfare of the island, 
which we were following, kept near the sea, and often ran for a half mile 
through deep sand and shells. The scenery was extremely picturesque, 
reminding me of the coast of Sicily. Inside of the Sugar Loaf we espied 
two small boats, with lug-sails of white canvass, which the men declared 
were our ship's boats ; but this has since proved to be a mistake. 

Notwithstanding the sultry heat of the afternoon, the Lew Chew coolies 



204 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

kept pace with us, under their heavy loads, while our lazy and complaining 
Chinamen lagged behind. These coolies were mostly boys, from twelve to 
sixteen years of age. I noticed as a curious fact that, in spite of the heavy 
loads they carried, and the rough by-ways we frequently obliged them to 
take, they never perspired in the least, nor partook of a drop of water, even 
in the greatest heat. They were models of cheerfulness, alacrity, and 
endurance, always in readiness, and never, by look or word, evincing the 
least dissatisfaction. Our official conductors drank but two or three times 
of water during the whole journey. Tea appears to be the universal beverage 
of refreshment. It was always brought to us whenever we halted, and fre- 
quently offered to Mr. Jones, as the head of the pari^, in passing through 
villages. Once, at an humble fisherman's village, when we asked for mizi, 
which signifies cold water, they brought us a pot of hot water, which they 
call yu, and were much surprised when we refused to drink it. 

After a march of ten miles along the picturesque shore, we reached one 
of the loveliest spots on the island. It was a village perched on a bold 
promontory, overgrown with the pine, banyan and sago palm, at the mouth 
of a charming valley which opened up between the hills to the base of the 
lofty peak behind Barrow's Bay. A stream of sweet water threaded the 
valley, which was covered with the freshest verdure, and overhung with 
beautiful groves of pine. It was a picture of pastoral loveliness, such as is 
rarely found in any country. Nothing struck me more during the journey 
than the great variety of scenery which the island encloses in its narrow 
compass. We passed through, at least, four different districts, which bore 
but the slightest resemblance to each other, either in features or character. 
We had both the groves of the tropics and the wild woods of the north • 
the valleys of G-ermany and the warm shores of the Mediterranean. 

The village was large, thriving, and as neatly laid out and hedged in as 
an English garden. The scrupulous neatness and regularity of the Lew 
Chew villages was doubly refreshing to one familiar with the squalor and filth 
of China. The sight of the Cung-qua, which occupied the place of honor 
at the top of the promontory, completed our raptures. Its roof of red tiles 
glittered in the sun ; a row of feathery sago palms threw their brilliant 
leaves over the wall of the enclosure ; the whitest and softest of mats cov- 
ered the floor ; the garden blazed with a profusion of scarlet flowers ; and 
stone basins, seated on pedestals, contained fresh water for our use. Its 
aspect of comfort and repose was a balm to travellers as weary as ourselves, 
and I directed Terry at once to hoist the stars and stripes upon the roof I 
hastened back to make a sketch of the beautiful valley before sunset, while 
Mr. Heine occupied himself with a view of the Cung-qua. A venerable 
old man, with a snowy beard reaching nearly to his knees, approached the 
bank where I sat, but upon noticing me, made a profound yet dignified rev- 
erence, and retired. The village was named Un-na. We had not yet 



EXPLORATION OF LEW CHEW. 205 

reached the region of fowls, hut the people sent us two small fresh fish, with 
a pumpkin and some cucumbers. Our own stores were quite low, both sugar 
and pork having been exhausted, so that we had nothing left but tea, coffee 
and ship biscuit. 

The natives kindled a fire inside the grounds of the Cung-qua, and half 
a dozen of them sat around it all night. The morning was dull, and a cap 
of mist on the mountain threatened rain. A bath in the sea before sunrise 
refreshed us for the day's march. For our breakfast, there were sent two long, 
eel-like fish, resembling the gar, a few young egg-plants, two gourds and a 
basket of sweet potatoes. So much time was occupied in cooking and con- 
suming these delicacies, that we did not get under way before 8 o'clock. 
Another consultation was held with our attendants, who declared that Sheudi 
was 90 li distant, and that it would require three days for us to reach Napha ; 
this did not correspond with our own ideas of our position, and we deter- 
mined to attempt reaching Napha the next evening, as we had been ordered. 

We passed through the village of Un-na, and over the headland to a deep 
bay. The tide was running out, and instead of wading through the sand 
around its entire curve, we made a straight line for the opposite shore, tramp- 
ing through water two or three inches deep over beds of decomposing coral. 
We had proceeded along the shore for an hour and a half, when A-shing, one 
of the Chinese coolies, fell sick in consequence, as it afterward appeared, of 
drinking sackee, and eating green peaches. His load was given to the Lew 
Chew coolies, and he obtained a temporary relief by punching his throat, in 
three places, so violently as to produce an extravasation of blood. Counter ir- 
ritation is the usual Chinese remedy for all ailments, and it is frequently very 
efficacious. We were near a fishing village, and Mr. Jones endeavored to ob- 
tain a canoe, in which to send both our Chinamen back to the vessel. The 
Pe-ching begged him to give up the idea, since one of the native officers would 
be obliged to accompany them, and they all feared to trust themselves in the 
frail craft. They brought a kagoo, or rude sedan, in which they offered to 
have the man conveyed to Napha, but he was better by this time, and de- 
clared himself able to proceed on foot. The officers expressed the greatest 
satisfaction when they found that none of ihem would be required to return 
in the canoe. 

In the meantime the rest of us had pushed forward with the baggage. 
The morning was very hot, the glare from the white beach-sand struck in 
our faces, and we began to tire of an endless tramp around cove after cove, 
and headland after headland. We were now, as we calculated, opposite the 
head of Barrow's Bay, and Sheudi was almost in a due southerly direction ; 
yet the road still clung to the coast, as if intent on carrying us to the extreme 
point of Cape Broughton, thus greatly lengthening our journey, besides 
which, our orders were to return through the centre of the island. In an- 
swer to all our inquiries, the native officers and guides pointed along the 



206 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

shore, and were extremely anxious to prevent our taking any inland paths. 
This excited our suspicion, and we imagined their object to be to prevent our 
seeing the interior. Finally, coming to a well-trodden path,which struck off 
up the hills, we shut our ears to all remonstrance and took it. In a short time 
it brought us to a handsome village, shaded not only with bamboo, but with 
splendid banyan trees. Beyond it there was a deep ravine, with a faintly 
marked foot-path leading to some water at the bottom. Again the natives 
entreated us to take a path which plainly led to the shore. They pointed 
to the gorge, crying " m^z^," intimating that the path went no further than 
the water. Nevertheless, seeing traces of a path on the opposite side, we 
descended, followed by the unwilling officers and coolies. The pool of water 
which supplied the village was shaded by the largest pines I saw on the 
Island. They were 70 or 80 feet in height, whereas the average is not more 
than 40 feet. 

Our suspicions did injustice to the natives, for we soon found that they 
had our convenience in view. Our path struck into a side-branch of the ra- 
vine, which, though not more than twenty feet wide, was a rice-swamp at the 
bottom. The sides were nearly perpendicular walls of earth and loose rocks, 
so that we were obliged to plunge up to the knees in mud. One of the men. 
Smith, sank so deep that it required the strength of three natives to extricate 
him. When, at last, we reached the top of the hill, we found it covered with 
waste thickets, and no path to be seen except one on an opposite height, 
tvhich we reached with some trouble. The path, an old and unused one, led 
us back to the beach, which it now seenled impossible to leave. The coolies, 
who had had a hard tug to get through the rice-swamp, took the whole mat- 
ter very good humoredly, and the officers laughed, as I thought, with a sort 
of malicious pleasure at our discomfiture. The walk over the white sand 
was doubly fatiguing after this, and on the arrival of Mr. Jones we deter- 
mined again to make for the interior, especially as we had reached the head 
of the last cove, whence the coast appeared to run almost due westwardly to 
Cape Broughton. 

Mr. Jones and Dr. Lynah, with the men Davis and Smith, took a foot- 
path leading southward into the mountains, and after proceeding a little 
further along the coast, I followed them with the seaman Mitchell. Mr. 
Heine, with Terry and the Lew Chew coolies, still kept the shore. We 
(Mitchell and I) reached with great difficulty the path taken by the first 
party. It ascended steeply through pine forests, alternating with dense 
copsewoodj for about two miles, till we gained the summit of the ridge. 
The whole expanse of Barrow's Bay came full into view to the eastward, 
while to the south we looked beyond the promontory we had been doubling 
so tediously, and saw the same deep cove we had beheld three days before 
from the top of Banner Rock. But all the interior of the island was still a 
wilderness, and for ten miles in advance stretched an unbroken forest. Our 



EXPLORATION OF LEW CHEW. 207 

path did not appear to have been much travelled — other small paths branched 
from it, but the party in advance had broken off boughs and left them as 
guides for us. I was much spent with the heat and the exertion of climbing 
so rapidly, and after drinking out of a muddy hole filled with leaves, felt 
an attack of mingled heat and cold, with an oppression of the heart which 
took away all my strength. We saw the other party on the top of a high 
peak ahead of us. The path crossed a ledge as narrow as a wall, with deep 
gulfs on each side, and then ascended a rocky ladder, the steepness of which 
took away what little strength I had remaining — I was obliged to lie down 
for some time before I could proceed further. A raincloud coming up rap- 
idly over Barrow's Bay, admonished us to leave our lofty look-out. The 
path kept on southward through miles of wilderness, but the natives who had 
accompanied us pointed to another, which led back almost the way we came, 
and which they said would bring us to a Cung-qua. As there were no signs 
of the baggage, we were thus under the necessity of retracing our steps 
almost to the shore. On our way we passed through a singular gorge, which 
was closed up, in its narrowest part, by fragments hurled from above by some 
convulsion of nature. The stream flowing at the bottom disappeared for 
about fifty yards, when it again issued to the light through a cavernous open- 
ing. 

A rain now came on, which continued for two or three hours, and made 
the road slippery and toilsome. We passed through a village, romantically 
situated in a wooden glen, and over uplands, covered with groves of pine, 
the path gradually swerving to the south, till it finally struck directly across 
the promontory. A great part of the way was a waste of wild thickets, with 
marshy hollows between the hills. We saw several times the tracks of wild 
boar, which the natives assured us were abundant ; but we were not so for- 
tunate as to get a sight of one. There were no traces of our baggage until 
we found the Pe-ching, and two other natives, crouching under a bush to 
keep out of the rain, and smoking their pipes. Finally, about half-past two, 
we heard the report of fire-arms, and soon after reached the Cung-qua of 
" Ghandakosa,^^ where Mr. Heine and the coolies had already been waiting 
some time for us. We were uncertain whether the building was a bona fide 
Cung-qu:i or the residence of a hunyo^ or officer, for it was occupied, when 
Mr. Heine arrived, by a personage of some kind with his attendants, but im- 
mediately given up for our use, There was a crowd of at least a hundred na- 
tives collected within the enclosure, and looking on, with great astonishment, 
while Mr. Heine fired at a mark. What seemed most to interest them, next 
to the accuracy of his aim, was the fact of the piece exploding without the 
application of fire, (nothing but Japanese matchlocks ever being seen on the 
island,) and its being loaded at the breech. They appeared familiar with the 
nature of gunpowder, and the use of our cutlasses ; but during our journey 
we never saw a single weapon of any kind. There is said to be a small gar- 



208 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

rison of Japanese soldiers, both at Napha and Sheudi ; but, if so, tbej were 
carefully kept out of the way. 

The Pe-ching, who soon afterwards came up, informed us that we had 
come 30 li, and that Sheudi was still 60 li distant, and we could not reach it 
on the following day. Learning, however, that there was another Cung-qua 
20 li further, we decided to rest an hour or two, and push on to it the same 
evening. The people brought two fowls, with abundance of eggs and cucum- 
bers, and, hungry and tired as we were, we made a most palatable meal. 

We left again at half-past four. The road was broad, well beaten, and 
shaded by a double row of pine trees. It ran in a southeastern direction, 
parallel with the coast and about two miles inland. The country continued 
open, slightly undulating, and pleasantly diversified with groves of pine for 
four miles, when we came suddenly upon a deep glen, traversed by much the 
largest stream we had seen upon the island. The road was crossed by a massive 
stone bridge of three arches, remarkable for the size and rude strength of the 
piers, each of which had, on the inner side, in order to protect it from floods, 
a triangular abutment, projecting ten or twelve feet. The sides of the glen 
were nearly perpendicular, and covered with wild and luxuriant vegetation. 
Towards the sea, under a range of broken limestone crags that hung high 
over the stream, were several ancient excavated tombs. A spring of excel- 
lent water gushed out from the foot of one of these crags. Mr. Heine took 
a sketch of the place, which was remarkable for its seclusion and picturesque 
beauty. The natives called the stream the " Fi-ijay 

On reaching a height overlooking the sea, we were agreeably surprised 
with the sight of the squadron, lying off the furthest point to the southwest, 
and between fifteen and twenty miles distant in a straight line. This encour- 
aged us to believe that we could reach Napha at the time appointed, and we 
pushed on rapidly and cheerily, for it was now growing dark, and no appear- 
ance of the Cung-qua. The road approached the shore, and became a raised 
causeway, passing through rich rice-swamps. The natives whom we met in the 
dusk of the evening took to flight on seeing us. At last, at half-past seven, 
weary and spent with a tramp of twenty-seven miles, the native herald who 
ran before us turned into a gateway, over which towered a magnificent banyan 
tree. We followed, and discharged our pieces in a ge-nej:2i\ feu-de-joie^ on see- 
ing a Cung-qua with the lamps lighted, attendants waiting with their trays 
of tea-cup.s, and a polite old gentleman standing in the verandah to receive 
us. The Lew Chew mats were never so soft, nor the cups of unsugared na- 
tive tea so refreshing, as on that evening. Eggs, cucumbers, rice, and fowls 
were immediately forthcoming, and our men concocted a soup which, to our 
minds, could not have been improved. The old Pe-ching made his appear- 
ance at a late hour, nearly as fatigued as ourselves, but overflowing with cor- 
diality and good humor. A company of native guards kindled a fire under 
the banyan tree, and prepared to spend the night there. Our men were so 



EXPLORATION OF LEW CHEW. 209 

fatigued that, in anticipation of another hard journey on the morrow, we dis- 
pensed with the usual watch. It was the less important, as we had found the 
native guard exceedingly vigilant in keeping away all stragglers from our 
vicinity. The light of the ruddy camp-fire, playing over the spreading boughs 
of the banyan tree, brought into strong relief the groups of swarthy faces 
clustered around it, and presented a picture so fantastic and peculiar, that I 
sat looking at it long after I ought to have been asleep. 

The sound of rain upon the tiles of our Cung-qua awoke us frequently du- 
ring the night, and when we arose at daybreak the sky was overcast, the 
roads flooded, and a steady dismal storm had set in. The Pe-ching and his 
associates wished us to stay at " Pi-ko," as the Cung-qua was called, until 
the next day, slapping their legs to indicate how tired they were, and making 
signs of slipping up and falling down in the mud. But we were inexorable, 
and they sent for a new set of coolies to carry our baggage. We had another 
discussion about the distance, which ended in their declaring that Sheudi was 
65 li and Napha 30 li distant. This was absurd, and probably ought to be 
attributed to the ignorance of the Chinese, through whom we communicated 
with them. The coolies prepared themselves for the rain by putting on 
shaggy jackets of grass, resembling the sheep-skin garments of the Koman 
herdsmen. Our men had their pea-jackets, and we were partially protected 
by ponchos of gutta-percha and oilcloth. We were delayed in getting break- 
fast, and did not break up our camp until half-past nine, when we set out, 
everybody stiff and sore from the previous day's travel. The rain was still 
falling, though not so heavily as at first, and the road was an alternation of 
water and stiff mud, through which we trudged with difficulty, and at the 
risk of leaving our boots behind us. After rounding the head of the bight, 
we struck on over the hills to the southwest, and in an hour and a half came 
upon another deep glen, in the bottom of which were two massive bridges 
over a stream so broad and deep that it was doubtless a frith of the sea. We 
stopped an hour to rest and enable Mr. Heine to take a sketch of the place. 
I noticed that the heavy triangular abutments to the piers were here placed 
on the side next the sea. The natives gave the glen, or river, the name of 
" Machinatoo." 

The rain had ceased by this time, except an occasional sprinkle, and the 
road improved. After another hour the roads branched, that on the left 
striking off up the hills to Sheudi. We kept on over the hills toward Napha, 
the scenery gradually assuming a familiar appearance, till finally, from a height 
covered with pine trees, we looked down upon the harbor and the American 
squadron. After fording a broad salt creek and crossing another ridge, we 
descended to the village of Tume, opposite Napha. We reached our starting 
point, the house of Dr. Bettelheim, at 2 p. m., and there took leave of our 
worthy Pe-ching and his two assistants, after having appointed a time to 
14 



210 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

meet them again, and endeavor to return some compensation for the provision 
furnished during the journey. 

The distance we travelled during the six days was 108 miles, as nearly 
as we could calculate. Our trip embraced a little more than half the island, 
leaving the extremity south of Napha, (which is of limited extent,) and that 
part north of the head of Port Melville, and lying on both sides of that har- 
bor, for future exploration." * 

On the return of the party, Mr. Jones submitted the following report to 
the Commodore of his observations. 

" Before describing the ancient royal castle of Chun-Ching, which we dis- 
covered in our recent exploration of Lew Chew, it may be well to say a few 
words about the geology of the island, as the two are connected with each 
other. 

Going northward from Napha we find the general surface-rock to be ar- 
gillaceous, either compact or shaly, which is intersected, at frequent inter- 
vals, by dykes or ridges of secondary limestone, of a very remarkable char- 
acter. When we get as high up as Barrow's Bay, the argillaceous rock ceases 
and is succeeded by talcose slate, in which, however, the same limestone 
dykes occur. At the most northern point reached by us, that is, at the vil- 
lage of Nacumma, on the west side of the island, say forty-two miles north of 
Napha, we reached granite, rising there into a hill of some elevation, but so 
soft as easily to be cut by a hatchet. This granite is of a grey color, some- 
times almost white ; and its mica, which is black, lies scattered about in the 
mass in beautiful six-sided crystals, giving it often a handsome appearance. 

The talcose slate has a strike of S. 10° W,, and a dip to the W. of 60^. 
It is mixed with quartz and other foreign ingredients of a hard character, 
and comes to the surface in sharp jagged edges ; very severe upon the feet. 

The argillaceous rock gives some marked features to the island. The 
rounded hills south of Barrow's Bay are all of this. Being soft, it yields 
readily to foreign agencies, and is often broken into bare faces, with perpen- 
dicular sides ; and thus, at the head of their valleys, sometimes presents us 
with beautiful cascades. It also forms the chief ingredient in the soil of 
the island — in wet weather a very adhesive clay. 

But the limestone dykes are the distinguishing feature of, at least, this 
portion of Lew Chew. They .cross the island in ranges of N. 50" E. and 
N. .60° E., rising up into peaks and castellated forms, often so much like 
ruins of ancient buildings as to make a near examination necessary in order 
to undeceive ourselves. The rock is highly granular, but still has in it, not 
unfrequent remains of marine animals. Sometimes it is sufficiently com- 
pact ; but, though always hard, it is generally so vesicular, as, when weather- 

* This report is from the pen of Mr. Bayard Taylor, who, it will be remembered, was 
directed by Commodore Perry to keep a journal of the incidents of the exploration, and make 
the report. 



GEOLOGY OF LEW CHEW. 211 

stainedj to have exactly the appearance of lava, for which, indeed, it is often 
mistaken. Its vesicular character opens it to the action of foreign agencies, 
and, in consequence, along the sea and bay shores it is often undermined by 
the waves, or, if harder pebbles find their way there, is by their friction 
worked into kettle-shaped holes, with ragged, knife-shaped edges between 
them. Where the roads in Lew Chew are paved, it is with this vesicular 
rock; and the pavement can be exceeded, in discomfort to the traveller, 
only by the sticky mud, from which it is intended to be a protection. 

On the second day of our journey (Tuesday) we were, towards noon, 
travelling on the summit of one of these limestone ridges, with precipitous 
sides descending on either hand. I was ahead of the party, and saw before 
me, by and by, a something, which I took, at first, to be the natural rock 
crossing my road ; till, presently, I saw what looked like a window, or some 
such opening, at its top. A nearer approach showed it, to my great surprise, 
to be the old deserted castle of Chun-Ching. 

The builders had taken advantage of a spot where the two perpen- 
dicular faces of the ridges approached each other sufficiently near; and 
here, on the edges of the natural rock, had erected their walls, giving to 
the sides of their castle a great additional height ; one end, also, was in 
part protected by a similar bold face of the rock. The road by which I 
came was conducted along outside of the main castle, though it was still 
carried through the fortifications, which it entered and left through gate- 
ways in very thick walls. The walls themselves were in the style so com- 
mon in Lew Chew, called in architecture the Cyclopean style, though the 
stones employed here are much smaller than their archetypes in the old 
Cyclopean walls of Greece. The builders of Chun-Ching contrived also 
to give their walls that inward curve which seems to have been the 
fashion in Lew Chew castellated buildings, and which we see also in the 
royal castle in Sheudi. 

Since our return I have learnt, through Dr. Bettelheim, that Chun- 
Ching was once a royal residence. There were, in early times, seven 
kingdoms in Lew Chew, each with its royal castle or capitol, and Chun- 
Ching was one of them. The number was afterwards reduced to three, 
then to one, as it at present remains. 

What I have marked as places for burning incense {a, a, &c.) are little 
oven-like buildings, which are common, also, to their temples and kung- 
kwas, and which Dr. B. tells me are for burning paper. The Lew Chewans 
have a regard, somewhat like the Mahomedans, for any paper with a sacred 
name upon it ; and lest such may be trodden under foot, and so desecrated, 
they burn them in the little edifices alluded to. 

Before dismissing the geology of Lew Chew, I ought to say that, just 
south of Nacumma, we crossed, along the shore, numerous patches of 
recently formed rocks. The rolled pebbles of the shore, together with 



212 



EXPEDITIOIT TO JAPAN. 



fragments of coral, and anything else that may happen to come in, are 
agglutinized by carbonate of lime, (probably the washings of coral reefs,) 
and are formed into a firm, compact rock. This rock is only about a foot 
thick, and lies in table-like fragments upon the sands, where it was formed. 
E saw a similar recently made rock, of fine sandstone, on the beach, just 
west of Point de Gralle, in Ceylon." 




^^, 




The Lew Chew Islands. 



CHAPTER IX 



Eflbrta of Authorities of Lew Chew to prevent a Yisit to the Palace.— All Unsuccessful.— Landing for the 
Visit— Procession.— Appearance of the Country.— Eeceptioa at the Palace.— Embarrassment of the 
Eegent — Entertainment at the Eegent's House.— Saki. — New Dishes. — Commodore Invites Authori- 
ties to a Dinner on board the Susquehanna. — General Impressions produced by the Yisit. — Espionage 
still kept up. — Daily exercise of Sailors and Marines. — Settlement of Accounts with Lew Chew Au- 
thorities. — Mississippi and Supply remain at Lew Chew. — Susquehanna and Saratoga leave for the 
Bonin Islands. — Death of an Opium Smoker on the passage. — Inhumanity of Chinese. — Sunday on 
board- — Arrival at Port Lioyd, 

HE determination of the Commo- 
dore to return the visit of the 
regent, at the palace, and nowhere 
else, had been seemingly acqui- 
esced in by the Lew Chew digni- 
tary; but, in truth, he had but 
yielded to a necessity. The 
Commodore had power to carry 
out his determination, and the 
regent deemed it most prudent to 
concur, with the semblance of 
politeness, in that which he could 
not prevent. 

This, however, did not induce that functionary and his subordinate 
officers to spare their efforts in the attempt to escape the much dreaded 
visit to the palace. Accordingly, they resorted to divers devices and 
stratagems, too clumsy, however, to be deemed either ingenious or cunning. 
In the first place they begged that the Commodore would return the visit 
at Napha instead of Shui ; then the effort was made to entrap the com- 
mander into a meeting with the regent, which would have been considered a 
return of the latter'ri visit. In pursuance of this scheme, the mayor of 
Napha made a great feast, some days before that named by the Commodore 
for his visit, and invited him to be present, with the intention of having the 
regent attend and preside. The invitation was politely declined, on the 
ground that the storeship, Caprice, was about to be dispatched on the 
appointed day to Shanghai, and the Commodore would necessarily be 




214 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

occupied. When the Lew Chewans found that the Commodore did not 
attend, they were determined that he should not, at any rate, lose the feast 
that had been prepared for him, and accordingly sent off to the ship 
numerous dishes of the intended banquet. These, as a matter of courtesy, 
were allowed to come on board, and very soon the quarter-deck exhibited 
various preparations of poultry, fish, vegetables, and fruits. The Commo- 
dore, however, from considerations of policy, thought it best to be invisible. 

The next device was to appeal to the humanity of the Commodore, and 
the request was preferred that he would make his visit to the palace of the 
Prince instead of at the royal residence. The reason assigned was, that the 
queen dowager was sick, and had been for a year, in consequence of the 
shock received on the visit of a British naval officer, who persisted in 
entering the royal residence, to present a letter from Lord Palmerston to 
the Lew Chew government ; and it was intimated that a repetition of such 
desecration of the palace would add to the malady of the queen, if, indeed, 
it did not produce a fatal termination. 

The Commodore, who did not believe one word of the queen dowager's 
illness, and who was quite convinced, also, that all this manoeuvring and 
trickery were designed merely to satisfy the spies kept about the Lew 
Chewans by the Japanese government, replied to this affecting appeal, that 
it was his duty to go where an officer of the Queen of England had been 
before him to have an audience ; and that, if the queen dowager did not 
see fit to remove to the palace of her son during his intended visit, he 
thought that the pageantry, music, &c., attending it (purely peaceful) might 
divert her mind, and tend rather to amuse her; while, if she wished, his 
learned physicians, who would accompany him, would be most happy to 
exercise their skill for her benefit, and assist in restoring her to health. 

At last, all devices having utterly failed to move the Commodore from 
his purpose, the day came which he had designated for his visit to the 
regent. It was matter of policy to make a show of it, and hence some 
extra pains were taken to offer an imposing spectacle. The day opened 
cloudily with a brisk wind stirring, and did not at first seem to promise a 
propitious season ; but after a morning shower the sky came out bright and 
blue, and until evening the aspect of nature was as fresh and beautiful as 
could have been desired. 

The hour of departure had been fixed at 9 o' clock. Presently the 
signal was made from the flag-ship, and all the boats of the other ships 
pushed off at the same time, and as they pulled to the land presented a very 
lively appearance. The point selected for landing was the little village of 
Tumai, about two miles from the palace of Shui. After all the other boats 
had gone, the Commodore set out in his barge, and on his arrival the marines 
were found, under arms, and in line, under a grove of trees by the road-side, 
near the landing. Groups of officers in uniform were gathered in little knots 



PROCESSION TO THE PALACE. 215 

under the shade of the trees ; the boats' crews rested on their oars, looking 
with interest on the proceedings, while the natives to the number of hundreds 
(many of them of the better class) stood around, evidently not a little moved 
and excited by the scene before them. 

The Commodore, with the captain of the fleet and Commanders Buchan- 
an, Lee, and Walker, then passed down the line of the marines and artil- 
lerymen, when the procession was immediately formed. First came two 
field-pieces, under the command of Lieutenant Bent, each having above it 
the American ensign, and immediately preceded by the master of the 
Susquehanna, (Mr. Bennet,) with Mr. Williams and Dr. Bettelheim, the 
interpreters. Next followed the band of the Mississippi with a company of 
marines, under command of Major Zeilin. The Commodore followed then 
in a sedan chair, which had been manufactured for the nonce, by the 
carpenter on board the ship. It was emphatically a dignified vehicle, as 
became the occasion, large and stately, deeply indebted to paint and puti;y, 
not quite as polished as a turnout from Newark or Longacre, but, on the 
whole, decidedly a feature in the procession, though its hangings of red and 
blue were not of the finest. At all events, it was the most imposing sedan 
the Lew Chewans ever saw. It was borne by eight Chinese coolies, four 
relieving each other alternately. On each side of it marched a marine as 
body guard, while a handsome boy had been selected as a page, who, with a 
Chinese steward, were the immediate personal attendants. 

Captain Adams, Lieutenant Contee, and Mr. Perry, followed the sedan. 
Next appeared six coolies bearing the presents designed for the prince and 
queen dowager, and guarded by a file of marines. Then came the officers 
of the expedition, headed by Captains Buchanan, Lee, and Sinclair, followed 
by their servants. Next were the band of the Susquehanna, and a company 
of marines closed the procession, which in numbers amounted to some two 
hundred or more. 

The whole procession was well arranged and picturesque in efiect; while 
the beauty of the day, the verdure of the hills and fields, and the cheerful 
music of the bands, gave life and spirit to the occasion. The natives clus- 
tered thickly on the sides of the road to gaze on the glittering novelty, 
while crowds of them hung in the rear of the cortege. They did not mani- 
fest the smallest apprehension, notwithstanding the presence of the marines 
under arms, and evidently were pleasantly excited by the spectacle before 
them. When the procession passed through any narrow lane the natives 
nearest to them knelt, the rank behind stooped down, and the rear remained 
erect, that all might have an opportunity of seeing, Yery soon the proces- 
sion emerged from the village, and came out upon the open undulating 
country south of Shui. The picture here was perfect. The fields of 
upland rice were gracefully bending like waves before the wind ; the groves 
and hill-sides were dark with the deep-green foliage, so suggestive of cool 



216 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

shady retreats, while, in the distance, the roof-tops of Shui, glittering in 
the sun, revealed, here and there, a spot of dazzling brightness amid the 
thick, leafy covering of the trees in which the city was embosomed. Under 
clumps of the Lew Chew pine the pleased natives were gathered in groups, 
while others might be seen running along the ridges that divided the rice 
fields, that they might head the procession, and thus gain another view; 
while over all the music from the bands floated far around, and added to the 
pleasurable excitement of the march. As the procession ascended the hill 
of Shui, the officers and men, who had been so long confined to the monotony 
of ship board life, gazed around with delight, perfectly charmed with the rich 
cultivated landscape that stretched away to the southward and westward. 

The officer designated to receive the Commodore at the landing, and 
conduct him to the capital, was the Pe-ching who had been, in the previous 
week, with the exploring party into the interior. When the procession 
arrived at the gate of Shui, it was met by a crowd of native dignitaries, 
with their attendants, all in their best robes of grass cloth, and with the red 
and yellow hatcJiee-matchees, or peculiar Lew Chew cap, on their heads. The 
old regent and his three venerable coadjutors here appeared, and after salu- 
tations, turned and accompanied the procession into the city. It passed on 
without halting, through the central arch, and marched up the principal 
street. A large train of attendants was in the retinue of the regent and 
chiefs; some carried umbrellas, others bore chow-chow, or refreshment 
boxes, cases for cups, and other articles. There was an inscription in 
Chinese characters over the central arch, which was translated by Mr. 
Williams to signify " The place of authority ; " under this arch the common 
people were not allowed to pass. 

The main street showed, on either side, high walls, with occasional alleys 
branching from it on both sides. The native officers kept the streets clear 
of spectators, except at one spot, where an alley branched ofi" to the left. 
Here was a dense crowd, and here also was exhibited the final device to 
prevent the Commodore from going to the palace. The regent's own res- 
idence was not far from the entrance of the street thus crowded, and here 
that dignitary requested, through the interpreter, that the procession should 
at once go to his house, and partake of the refreshments he had provided. 
Mr. Williams, who saw at once the object of the request, paid no attention 
to it, but marched straight on to the palace gate. It was obvious that the 
regent had anticipated that his stratagem would prove successful, for the 
gate of the palace was closed. A messenger, however, was dispatched, at 
full speed, to cause it to be opened, and preparations to be made for the 
Commodore's reception. On arriving at the entrance, the artillery and 
marines were drawn up in line, and the Commodore and his suite walked 
past them into the castle or palace ; the troops presented arms, the ensigns 
were lowered, and the band played " Hail Columbia." 



ENTERTAINMENT AT THE PALACE. 217 

On entering the first gateway, a second wall and portal were seen above, 
(for the edifice stood on a cliff or elevation of rock, which formed, indeed, 
part of its foundation,) and this second gateway formed the entrance to the 
outer court of the palace, which crowned the height. This court was sur- 
rounded by houses, which seemed to be designed for servants and others 
belonging to the royal household. On the eastern side, however, was 
another gateway, resembling the Chinese portals of honor. This consisted 
of two arches, and the Commodore was conducted, as a mark of honor and 
respect due to his rank, through that on the right hand, into what appeared 
to be the central court of the palace. It was about eighty feet square, with 
very plain wooden buildings, of one story only, on its sides, and was paved 
with gravel and large tiles, arranged in alternate Vzenges. The hall of 
reception was on the north side. All the other buildings, on the other 
sides, were protected by screens from the view of those in the court. 

The Commodore was conducted into the hall of audience, and placed in 
a chair at the head of the room, on the right hand side ; the officers fol- 
lowed, and were ranged in chairs on a single line, next to the Commodore, 
according to rank. These chairs were of some dark wood, lacquered, and 
were like our camp stools. There was also a double line of members of 
the Commodore's retinue across the bottom of the room. On the left side 
of the apartment sat the regent, with his three principal councillors, and a 
double rank of attendants stood behind them. The interpreters stood at the 
head of the room, near the Commodore, but between him and the regent. 
All having been thus accommodated, time was afforded for looking around. 
On the wall was a large red tablet, inscribed with Chinese characters, which 
signify, in English, " The elevated inclosure of fragrant festivities ; " an 
inscription, by the way, which seems more appropriate to a place of feasting 
than to a hall of diplomacy or state receptions, where there is ordinarily 
little fragrance and less festivity. 

The queen dowager, who had been so pathetically represented as being 
sick, did not, of course, make her appearance; nor did the boy prince, for 
whom the regent governed. After mutual salutations, tables were brought, 
and cups of very weak tea were presented to the guests. Smoking boxes 
were also distributed around the room, and twists of very tough gingerbread 
were placed on the table. In short, it was obvious that the visit at the 
palace was unexpected ; it had been supposed, probably, that the stratagem 
of the regent to prevent it, by taking the Commodore to his own house, 
would succeed ; and, consequently, no preparations had been made for the 
reception of the company at the palace. Presently the Commodore invited 
the regent and his three colleagues to visit him on board the Susquehanna. 
He stated that he intended leaving Napha in a day or two, but that, after 
ten days, he should return again, and would receive them at any time they 
might choose to appoint, either before his departure or after his return 



218 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

They replied, that they would leave the time of the visit to be named 
by the Commodore, and he stated that he would prefer it should be made 
after his return. To this they assented with seeming satisfaction. The 
next step in the ceremonies consisted in the regent's taking several large red 
cards, similar to those used on state occasions in China, when he and his three 
companions rose, advanced a few steps, and bowed profoundly. The Com- 
modore and all the officers rose and bowed in return, but without precisely 
understanding what the homage of the Lew Chewans particularly meant ; 
they were determined, however, not to be outdone in the outward symbols 
of civility. 

The Commodore then tendered to the regent such articles as he might 
need or desired to possess, provided he had them on board any of the ships, 
adding that it would give him pleasure to supply them. Hereupon the four 
dignitaries rose again, advanced, and bowed as beforo. The interview was 
becoming rather uninteresting, and it was quite plain that the magnates of 
Lew Chew were, from some cause or other, not quite at their ease. 

After about an hour the regent rose and proposed that the Commodore 
should visit him now, at his own house. This was alike intelligible and 
agreeable, and the procession was formed and marched to the street where it 
had been invited to enter on its way to the palace. The house of the regent 
was spacious, consisting of a central hall, with wings open to the court-yard, 
from which it was separated by a narrow verandah only. The floor was 
covered with fine matting. It was at once apparent that most hospitable 
preparations had here been made for the entertainment of the American 
visitors. Four tables were set in the central apartment and three in each 
of the wings, and these were covered with a most bountiful collation. 
Immediately on entering the guests were desired to seat themselves, the 
Commodore, with Captains Buchanan and Adams, occupying the highest 
table on the right hand, and the regent and his associates the one opposite 
on the left. A pair of chop-sticks was placed at each corner of every table ; 
in the centre was an earthen pot filled with sahi, (the intoxicating drink 
made by the Lew Chewans,) surrounded with four acorn cups, four large, 
coarse China cups, with clumsy spoons of the same material, and four tea- 
cups. On each table were dishes to the number of some twenty, of various 
sizes and shapes, and the exact basis of some of which no American knoweth 
to this day; possibly it was pig. Of the dishes, however, which were 
familiar to western apprehension, there were sliced boiled eggs, which had 
been dyed crimson, fish made into rolls and boiled in fat, pieces of cold 
baked fish, slices of hog's liver, sugar candy, cucumbers, mustard, salted 
raddish tops, and fragments of lean pork, fried. Cups of tea were first 
handed round ; these were followed by very small cups of saki, which had 
the taste of French liqueur. Small bamboo sticks, sharpened at one end, 
and which some of the guests mistook for toothpicks, were furnished, to be 



ENTERTAINMENT AT THE REGENT'S. 219 

used as forks in taking balls of meat and dough from the soup, which made 
the first course. Soup constituted also the next seven courses of the twelve, 
whereof the repast consisted. The other four were gingerbread, salad made 
of bean sprouts and young onion tops, a basket of what appeared to be some 
dark red fruit, but proved to be artificial balls composed of a thin dough 
rind covering a sugary pulp, and a delicious mixture compounded of beaten 
eggs and a slender white root with an aromatic taste. 

Novel as was this bill of fare, the gentlemen of the expedition endeav- 
ored, with true courtesy, to do honor to the repast, and at the end of the 
twelfth course respectfully took leave, though they were assured there 
were twelve more to come. The number of the courses indicated the 
desire to do our countrymen a double share of honor, inasmuch as twelve 
is the prescribed number for a royal entertainment. The Lew Chewans, far 
removed as they are from the conventionalities of western civilization, 
seemed, notwithstanding, to understand very well the habit of drinking 
toasts and giving sentiments, and, indeed, were ready enough to drink, on 
private account, without any stately formality, as the saki circulated freely 
v;^ - during the eight courses of soup. When the Commodore supposed the 
solids were about to appear, he rose, and proposed as a toast the health of 
the queen mother and the young viceroy, adding, " Prosperity to the Lew 
Chewans, and may they and the Americans always be friends." This, 
having been translated to the regent, appeared greatly to gratify him, and 
was drunk standing, with Lew Chew honors, which consist of draining the 
small cup of saki, holding a teaspoon full, at one gulp, and turning the 
vessel bottom upward. The Commodore afterward proposed the health of 
the regent and his associates, which the latter returned by proposing the 
health of the Commodore and the officers of the squadron. By this time 
the embarrassment and anxious looks of the Japanese officials had entirely 
vanished ; from what cause they had proceeded our officers could not learn, 
but most probably from the consciousness that they were under espionage, 
and that all they said or did would be reported to those above them. The 
entertainment, however, proceeded and terminated with the best possible 
feeling on both sides. 

The interpreter of the regent was a young native, named Ichirazichi, 
who had been educated at Pekin, where he remained three years. He could 
speak a little English, but the Chinese was the language of communication. 
This youth had some knowledge both of the United States history and 
geography. He was not unacquainted with the character and conduct of 
Washington, and called him " a very great mandarin." Where is it that 
the honored name of the Father of our country, this man for all time, this 
man, whose peerless purity is the proud heritage of a common humanity 
the world over, has not reached ? It is heard in the Arab tent, and in the 
Chinese village, under the shades of Lew Chew, and in the cities of Japan, 



220 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

in southern Asia, and on the shores of the Arctic ; all western Christendom 
knows it, all honors it. 

At length the feast was over, and the American guests took their depar- 
ture, the procession forming in the same order as before. The subordinate 
Japanese officials escorted it to the gate, and the old Pe-ching again took 
his station in advance. On starting down the hill, four little ponies which 
had gone up without finding riders, were now led by the grooms to the rear 
of the procession, and some of the younger officers determined to try their 
mettle in a ride down. They were very small animals, of bay color, but 
exceedingly spirited ; and, kicking and plunging with untiring vivacity, and 
somewhat of temper, treated, at first, with sublime contempt all efforts to 
reduce them to a gravity befitting the occasion, and indignantly resisted 
every attempt to induce them, with the rational sobriety of discreet brutes, 
to take their places in the rear, and march understandingly, as became 
them. Like ill-bred ponies, as they were, they kicked up their heels, and 
endeavored to do much as they pleased. This, however, merely afibrded 
more fun to the officers than if the wiry little creatures had behaved them- 
selves discreetly as part of the American procession. 

The descent of the hill was rather warm, as it was not far from noon, 
and the sun shone full in the faces of the procession ; but, on reaching the 
wooded slopes, it was met by the grateful sea-breeze, and the boats were 
seen quietly resting on the waters of the bay, while their crews were scat- 
tered in groups under the trees, watching the coming on of the procession, 
and waiting to know whether due honor had been shown to the United States 
in the person of their " Old Commodore." Each boat had the American 
colors flyiug, and Jack was made happy by the assurance that all possible 
respect had been paid to his flag. By half-past two, the whole procession 
was again on board the ships, without any accident or untoward incident 
having occurred to mar either the pleasure or success of the trip ; and thus 
ended the grand official visit to the palace. It was a judicious determination 
on the part of the Commodore to make it; and, having announced such de- 
termination to the Lew Chewans, it was especially wise to carry it through to 
the letter. The moral influence produced by such a steadfast adherence to 
his avowed purposes very soon exhibited itself It was part of the Commo- 
dore's deliberately formed plan, in all his intercourse with these orientals, 
to consider carefully before he announced his resolution to do any act ; but, 
having announced it, he soon taught them to know that he would do pre- 
cisely what he had said he would. To this single circumstance much of his 
success is to be attributed. He never deceived them by any falsehood, nor 
ever gave them reason to suppose that his purposes could be altered by their 
lies and stratagems. They, of course, saw at once that he was resolute, and 
that it was dangerous to trifle with him. His whole diplomatic policy was 
simply to stick to the truth in everything — to mean just what he said, and 



IMPRESSIONS PRODUCED BY THE VISIT. 221 

do just what he promised. Of course, it triumphed over a system which 
admitted of no truth, but for purposes of deception. 

Several little circumstances connected with the excursion attracted the 
attention of the Commodore, and, as illustrative of manners and customs, 
deserve a passing notice. The first was the exceeding cleanliness of the 
Lew Chewans, and their striking contrast to the Chinese in this particular. 
The Commodore, speaking of Shui, says : " Never have I seen a city or town 
exhibiting Ti greater degree of cleanliness ; not a particle of dirt, or even 
dust, could be seen, so different is it from the filthiness of all Chinese 
cities." 

The road over which the procession passed was remarkably well con- 
structed. It was elaborately paved with coral rock, very neatly fitted 
together, and the upper surface rendered smooth, either by artificial means 
or the constant attrition of travel. 

The peasantry who hung upon the edges of the procession seemed to be 
of the lowest orders seen in Lew Chew, and exhibited a squalid and rather 
miserable appearance ; many of them were naked, with the exception of a 
small piece of cloth about the loins; and among the thousands of these 
people attracted by the novelty of the spectacle, singular as it may appear, 
not a woman was to be seen. The great population of the island may^ 
therefore, fairly be inferred from the large multitudes assembled, composed 
of but one half of the common people. These men who were seen probably 
compose the laboring class, receiving for their daily toil scanty food and 
harsh treatment. The idlers are the priests, and the hordes of spies and 
policemen who throng the highways, and who are watching every thing by 
day and night. 

On the whole, the Commodore was pleased with the suavity and polite- 
ness of the higher classes, and with the seeming cordiality of the hospitality 
which had been shown him ; if the Lew Chewans were not sincere, they 
were, at least, very good actors. As to the culinary skill that had been 
employed in preparing the regent's feast, there were certainly dishes of the 
composition of which the guests were ignorant, but still they were, in gen- 
eral, savory and very good ; much more so than those presented by Chinese 
cookery. Whenever a fresh course was brought in at the regent's feast, the 
host and his brother dignitaries rose, and emptied their small cups of saki 
to the health of the guests ; and the regent always gave a signal to the 
Commodore when to commence on a new course. 

At the reception in the palace, though the queen did not appear, yet the 
Commodore was quite satisfied that the story he had been told about her 
desperate illness, by the regent, was all fiction ; and, in fact, if she were 
not, as some suspected, a myth, he thought it not improbable that she and 
her attendant ladies were behind the screen, looking through some crevice at 
the western strangers, possibly not a little amused at the novel show. At 



222 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

any rate, he was so certain she would survive his visit, that he caused to 
be sent to the palace a present for her of a handsome mirror, and a quantity 
of French perfumery ; and left there also the gifts which he designed for 
the prince, the regent, the mayor of Napha, and other dignitaries. 

The expected absence from the island, to which the Commodore had 
alluded on his visit to the palace, was to be occasioned by an intended ex- 
amination of the Bonin Islands, a group lying to the eastward, in the neigh- 
borhood of 141° of longitude, and presenting some points of interest for 
investigation. Before our departure for these islands, however, the story of 
which will be told in its place, we must finish the narrative of events on 
this the first visit to Lew Chew. The old Pe-ching, who received the 
Commodore on his landing to go to Shui, was, as we have already mentioned, 
the same that with such exemplary patience and good nature accompanied 
(as chief spy, doubtless) the exploring party in their tedious excursion of a 
week over the island. Mr. Jones, the chaplain, accompanied by Mr. Taylor 
and Mr Heine, having procured presents for the old man by the Commodore's 
order, and added thereto some pieces of Canton silk handkerchiefs of their 
own, went on shore and met the Pe-ching at Dr. Bettelheim's, when matters 
were satisfactorily adjusted. But on this visit, as on all previous ones, the 
system of incessant watching was kept up. Five individuals, in gray 
dresses, followed the American gentlemen, and sent forward a scout to warn 
the people to keep out of the way, and they accordingly fled in all directions 
on the approach of the strangers. There seemed to be special apprehension 
of their women being seen ; but in the few instances when accidentally they 
became visible, they were found to be strikingly unhandsome. 

During the period of stay at Lew Chew all military and naval drills 
and exercises were regularly performed daily, and the harbor of Napha was 
made lively, on two days, by a general boat inspection. Seventeen boats, 
fully manned and equipped, and five of them carrying twelve and twenty- 
four pounders, drew up off the Susquehanna, and were reviewed by the 
fleet officers. It was a fine spectacle, and was gazed on with lively interest 
by the Lew Chewans. They had never seen any thing of the kind before 
within their quiet harbor. 

The pursers were sent on shore, before the squadron's departure, to settle 
accounts with the treasurers of the island, and pay for such supplies as had 
been furnished. By the Commodore's order Lieutenant Contee and Mr. 
Williams, the interpreter, accompanied them, carrying a number of presents, 
chiefly American cotton goods. Accord icg to their past usage, the Lew 
Chewans demurred to receiving any compensation for supplies ; but they 
were given to understand that this could not possibly be allowed ; and that 
American ships of war always paid the people of all nations from whom they 
received supplies. After some persuasion they induced the native treasurers 
to take compensation for all that had been furnished to the ships, and also 



PASSAGE TO BONIN ISLANDS. 223 

to receive the presents. The Commodore thought it was a point gained of 
some importance, that they had thus, for the first time, as it is believed, 
broke through their ancient custom of not receiving pay for provisions fur- 
nished to vessels. Henceforth visitors and their hosts will stand on terms of 
equality, and no superiority can be claimed, nor any exclusive policy 
practised on the ground of favors done to strangers. 

The daguerreotypists, Messrs. Brown and Draper, were settled on shore 
in a house outside of the village of Tumai, and some of the embellishments 
of this volume are illustrative of the results of their very useful labors. 
Mr. Scott, of the Saratoga, (an invalid,) occupied another house, and 
enjoyed an agreeable intercourse with the natives, finding no difficulty in 
procuring from them abundant supplies. A tide-staff" was planted, and 
Midshipman Boardman, with two men, were encamped under a tent near it 
to make regular observations. The rise and fall of the tide during the stay 
of the vessels had averaged about six feet. 

All arrangements having been finally made for a temporary absence, on 
the morning of the 9th of June the Susquehanna got under way for the 
Benin Islands, having the Saratoga in tow. 

The Mississippi and Supply were left at Napha, and the Commodore 
enjoined on Commander Lee, the senior officer, to cultivate the most friendly 
relations with the islanders, exercising all possible forbearance and kindness 
in his intercourse with the authorities and people, and to be careful to 
permit none but the most orderly persons to go on shore, lest some untoward 
event should mar the harmony then happily subsisting. 

Passing through the southern channel the Susquehanna rounded Abbey 
Point, and took a southern course around the extremity of the island. This 
end of the island, though hilly and picturesque, did not appear to be either 
so fertile or so well cultivated as the eastern and western shores. In the 
course of the afternoon Lew Chew sank beneath the horizon, and the ship 
held on her course, east by north, at the rate of eight knots an hour. At 
first she had a light wind from the southwest, which soon died away ; but 
presently she came within the influence of the monsoon, which filled her 
sails ; the drawing sails of both ships were set, and though the steamer had 
the Saratoga in tow, and used but three of her boilers, she made nine and a 
half knots. 

The southwest monsoon still continuing, good progress was made, not- 
withstanding a strong current from the eastward ; and nothing occurred to 
interrupt the uniformity of sea life on board, save an event which interrupts 
the current of life itself alike on ship and shore. There was a death on 
board the Susquehanna. When Mr. Williams came from China to join the 
squadron, at Lew Chew, as interpreter, he brought with him an old Chinaman 
who had been his teacher, and who, it was supposed, might be useful in 
future operations ; but it was very soon apparent that the old man's race 



224 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

was nearly run. He was a victim to the habit of opium smoking, which he 
was attempting to abandon. The consequences of this effort, and the effects 
of sea sickness on board the Saratoga, prostrated him so completely that no 
medicines had any effect, and he sank into a state of nervelessness and 
emaciation painful to look upon. For a week before his death his condition 
had been most pitiable : every joint in his skeleton frame seemed to be in 
perpetual motion ; his face was a ghastly yellow ; his cheeks sunken on the 
bones ; the eyes wild and glassy ; and his mind in a state of semi-madness. 
Death, when it came, was a relief to the poor old man, as well as to those 
who saw him die. On the day after his decease the ship presented that 
striking picture, a funeral at sea. The Commodore and other officers stood 
around, with a large part of the crew, while the chaplain committed his 
body to the deep until the day come when " the earth and the sea shall give 
up their dead." 

A more frightful example of the terrible effects of the use of opium it 
would be difficult to find. It exceeded in horror all the loathsome and 
repulsive results of the use of intoxicating drinks. Delirium tremens is 
horrible enough, but the last scene of this old opium smoker was more 
horrible still. There was something revolting also in the conduct of the 
Chinese on board the ship. They manifested not the least sympathy with 
their dying countryman. For a day or two before he died, not one of them, 
with the exception of one of the Commodore's servants, would go near him ; 
and on the last night of his life, when two of the deck coolies had been 
ordered by the captain to remain in the room, and were obliged to obey, they 
squatted down in the corner most remote from him, and never once ap- 
proached him. Some of the quartermasters gave him what he needed, and 
were with him when he died. 

During the run to the Bonin Islands, the crews were occasionally beat 
to quarters by way of exercise, and on one occasion after dark. Night 
signals were made to the Saratoga by means of lanterns and blue lights, 
and to those who were not " old salts " enough to have seen such sights 
before, the effect was alike novel and exciting. The blue lights illuminat- 
ing the broad sails, at their full tension under the influence of the monsoon, 
the men at their several stations, all brought out in the glare of an artificial 
light, which, though bright as daylight, yet was of unearthly aspect, gave to 
the scene somewhat of a startling effect, and forcibly impressed the imagina- 
tion with the peculiar features of a night engagement. The next morning 
after this exhibition (Sunday) was fresh and cool, and it was pleasant, as the 
vessels held on their prosperous way over a smooth sea, to see the crews all 
newly washed, clean, and dressed in their suits of snowy duck with broad 
blue collars, while everything about the vessel wore a trim, holiday air, and 
those not on duty were waiting for five bells to gather around the chaplain's 
temporary pulpit — the capstan — and join in the services of the day, so 



ARRIVAL AT BONIN ISLANDS 



225 



pbculiarly appropriate for men " who go down to the sea in ships, and whose 
path is in the great waters." The favoring circumstances all continuing, on 
the 14th of June, at 10 a. m., the ships found themselves off the entrance 
of Port Lloyd, on Peel Island, one of the Bonins. The Saratoga had been 
previously cast off, and was now ordered to go ahead. Two vessels, appar- 
ently whalers, hove in sight, one on either quarter. The one to the north- 
ward showed American colors, and began to beat down toward the Susque- 
hanna, anxious probably to know the meaning of such a strange event as the 
appearance of one of her country's large armed steamers in that remote 
spot. The three islands called Peel, Buckland, and Stapleton, constitute 
the principal part of that group, and lie close together. They are high, 
bold, and rocky, and, though not so beautiful and green as Lew Chew, are 
yet exceedingly picturesque. Pilots put off from the island to both ships, 
and soon both were safely anchored in the harbor of Port Lloyd. 




Bamboo Village, Lew Chew. 



15 



CHAPTER X. 

Situation of Bonin Islands. — First Discovery of them. — Europeans have no claim as the Discoverers. — 
Mixed Character of present Settlers. — External Appearance of Peel Island. — Geological Formation. — 
Harbor of Port Lloyd.— Productions of the Island, Animal and Vegetable. — Eesort of Whalers. — 
Condition of present Inhabitants.— Commodore causes the Island to be Explored. — Reports of Explo- 
ring Parties. — Kanakas. — Examination of Stapleton Island, and Eeport thereon. — Survey of harbor of 
Port Lloyd.— Land Purchased for a Coal Depot— Departure from Bonin Islands on the Keturn to 
Lew Chew.— Disappointment Island. — Its true Position,— Borodinos. — Arrival at Napha. 

HE Bonin Islands, lying in the Ja- 
panese Sea, extend in a direction 
nearly north and south, between the 
latitudes of 26° 30' and 27° 45' 
north, the centre line of the group 
being in longitude about 142° 15^ 
east. The islands were visited by 
Captain Beechey in 1827, and, with 
the proverbial modesty and justice 
of English surveyors, named by him, 
as if they had been then first ob- 
served. The northern cluster he 
called Parry's Group ; the middle 
cluster, consisting of three larger 
islands, respectively Peel, Buckland, 
and Stapleton ; and the southern 
cluster was named by him Bailey's, utterly regardless of the fact thus stated 
by himself : " The southern cluster is that on which a whale ship, com- 
manded by a Mr. Coffin, anchored in 1823, who was first to communicate its 
position to this country, and who bestowed his name upon the port. As the 
cluster was, however, left without any distinguishing appellation, I named it 
after Prancis Bailey, Esq., late President of the Astronomical Society."* 
To the principal port of Peel Island he gave the name of Port Lloyd. 

This was a pretty liberal distribution of honors by an accidental visitor 




Findlaj's Directory of the Pacific Ocean. 



142 "East of Greenwich 



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,K/VTER I. 



OFTHE 

BONINGROUPofISLANDS. 



Hars^^O^ 



"f iy STAPLETOr 



ON I. 



2/1 



rortLldjd 




FittonBajr 



I 



jyevilsBocki, 




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Plymouth ^ 



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ndJ 



JAPANESE ACCOUNT OF THE BONINS. 227 

in 1827, to a group of islands that bad been known, and of wbicb we bave 
authentic accounts as early as the seventeenth century. According to 
Kaempfer, these islands were known to the Japanese at a period as far back 
as 1675, and were described by them under the name of Buna Sima, signi- 
fying an island without people. According to the account of this traveller, 
whose words we quote, the Japanese accidentally, about the year 1675, dis- 
covered a very large island, one of their barques having been forced, in a 
storm, from the island Fatscyo, from which place they computed it to be 
three hundred Japanese miles distant, toward the east. They met with no 
inhabitants, but found it to be a very pleasant and fruitful country, well 
supplied with fresh water, and furnished with plenty of plants and trees, 
particularly the arrack tree, which, however, might give room to the con- 
jecture that the island lay rather to the south of Japan than to ;he east, as 
these trees grow only in hot countries. The Japanese marked it as an unin- 
habited place, but they found upon its shores an incredible quantity of fish 
and crabs, "some of which were from four to six feet long." The descrip- 
tion of Kasmpfer, as well as that of an original Japanese writer, given in 
the note below, was found by Commodore Perry to correspond exactly with 
the present appearance of the island. The arrack, or areca tree, alluded to 
in the extract, is found upon Peel Island.* 

* Extract from Klaprotlis translation of San Kohp Tsoir Ran To Sits. 

" The original name of these islands is 0-gasa-wara-sima, but they are commonly called 
Mon-nin-sima, (in Chinese, AVu-jin-ton,) or the islands without people, and this is the 
name which I have adopted in my work. That of 0-gasa-wara-sima, or the O-gasa-wara 
islands, was given to them after the navigator who first visited them, and who prepared a 
map of them. In the same manner has the southern part of the New World been called 
Magalania, (Magellan,) who first discovered it some two hundred years since. 

" The Bonin islands are found 270 ri to the southeasterly of the province of Idsu. From 
Simoda, in that principality, it is 13 ri to the island of Myake ; from thence to Sin-sima or 
New island, seven ri ; from Sin-sima to Mikoura, five ri ; from thence to Fatsicio or Fatiho, 
(Fatsisio,) 41 ri ; and, lastly, from this to the most northern of the uninhabited islands, it 
is reckoned to be 180 ri ; and to the most southerly 200 ri. 

"This Archipelago lies in the 27th degree of north latitude. The climate is warm, and 
makes the valleys lying between the high mountains, watered by rivulets, to be very fertile, 
so that they produce beans, wheat, mUlet, grain of all kinds, and sugar cane. The tree 
called Nankin, faze or tallow tree (Stillingia sebifera) grows there, and likewise the wax 
tree. The fishery is good, and might be made very productive. 

"Many plants and trees grow in these islands, but there are very few quadrupeds. 
There are trees so large that a man cannot embrace them with his arms, and which are 
frequently thirty Chinese fathoms in height, (or 240 feet.) Their wood is hard and beauti- 
ful. There are also some very high trees resembling the siou-ro-tsoung-liu, or chamarops 
excelsa, cocoa nuts, areca palms, that tree whose nuts are called pe-couan-tsy in Chinese 
the katsirau, the red sandal wood, the tou-mou, the camphor, tub figs of the mountains, a 
high tree whose leaves resemble those of the ground ivy, the cinnamon tree, mulberry, and 
some others. 



228 BXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

The green turtles which abound in the island were propahly mistaken 
for crabs, which may account for the gigantic size attributed by Ksempfer 
to these animals. Other accounts give a much earlier date for the discovery 
by the Japanese than that of 1675, stated by the authority just quoted. 
At any rate, the English have not a particle of claim to priority of dis- 
covery. In illustration of the discovery of the Bonins by the accidental 
visit of a Japanese junk, it may be stated that the Commodore was informed 
by Mr. Savory, an American resident, that a Japanese vessel of about forty 
tons burden came into Port Lloyd thirteen years before, having been driven 
by stress of weather from the coast of Japan. After remaining during the 
winter she sailed on her return home in the spring, and, as she had brought 
with her nothing but a small supply of dried fish, was provided gratuitously 
by the settlers with provisions. On another occasion, some eight years sub- 

" Among the plants the smilax China, (or China root,) called san-ke-rei, the to-ke, a 
medicinal herb called assa-ghion-keva, and others are to he reckoned. 

"Among birds there are different species of parokeets, cormorants, partridges, and 
some resembling white sea-mews, but more than three feet long. All these birds have so 
little wildness that they can be taken with the hand. 

• " The chief productions of the mineral kingdom in this archipelago are alum, green 
vitriol, stones of different colors, petrifactions, &c. 

" Whales are found in the sea, also huge crawfish, enormous shells, and echini, which 
are called ' gall of the sea.' The ocean here is unusually rich in various products. 

" In the third year of the reign Ghen-Fo, (1675,) Simaye Saghemon, Biso Saghemon, 
and Simaye Dairo Saghemon, three inhabitants of Nagasaki, took a sea voyage to the 
principality of Idsu. They were embarked in a large junk, built by a skilful Chinese car- 
penter. These three men were well acquainted with astronomy and geography, and accom- 
panied by Fatobe, the chief ship-carpenter of the port of Yedo, who dwelt in the lane of 
nets. The vessel was managed by thirty sailors. Having obtained a passport from the im- 
perial marine, they left the harbor of Simoda, the 5th day of the 4th moon, and steered for 
the island of Fatsio. From thence they sailed toward the southeast and discovered a group 
of eighty islands. They drew up a map and an exact account of them, in which are some 
curious details respecting the situation, climate, and productions of this archipelago. They 
returned the 20th day of the 6th moon, in the same year, to Simoda, where Simaye pub- 
lished an account of his voyage. 

" It is singular that this writer makes no mention of the swift current, kuro-se-gaw, 
which is experienced between the islands of Mikura and Fatsio. Its breadth exceeds twenty 
matze, (about half a ri,) and it flows with great swiftness from east to west, [a) about one 
hundred ri. This omission would be inexplicable if this current was not much less rapid 
in summer and autumn then it is in winter and spring. Simaye, in his passage to the Bonin 
islands, passed it in the first part of the intercalary month, which succeeds the fourth moon • 
on his return, the latter part of the sixth moon, he should have found the currents less rapid, 
and thus his attention was not called to this dangerous passage. 

" The largest of the eighty islands is fifteen ri in circuit, and thus is a little less than 
Iki island in size. Another is ten ri in circumference, and about the size of Amakusa island. 
Besides these two there a"re eight others which are from two to six and seven ri around. 
These ten islands have flat plateaux which could be made habitable, and where grain would 

(a) The writer in describing the direction of the current is ipistaken. 



BONINS NOT DISCOVEEED BY THE ENGLISH. 229 

sequently, a French ship, cruizing off Stapleton Island, discovered a fire 
ashore, and on sending a boat to the spot, found the wreck of a Japanese 
junk and five of its crew, the only survivors, in a most helpless plight. 
They were then taken on board and carried to Port Lloyd, and thence sub- 
sequently removed by the humane Frenchmen with the intention of landing 
them on one of the Japanese islands. In confirmation of this statement we 
have the fact that a party of officers from the Susquehanna, on a visit to 
Stapleton Island, accidentally saw the wreck of this same vessel. The re- 
mains of the junk were found in a little bay where they landed, the wreck 
being still partially kept together by large nails of copper and portions of 
sheets of this metal. From these materials and other indications, it was 
inferred that it was a Japanese junk, and as the edges of the planks were 
but little rubbed or decayed, it was concluded that the wreck could not be 
very old. 

Captain Cofl&n^ whose nationality is not mentioned, but who, from his 
name, was probably an American, and if so, doubtless from Nantucket, vis- 
ited and gave his name to that part of the group so singularly appropriated 
and modestly christened by Beechey as the Bailey Islands. They are spoken 
of by the inhabitants as the southern islands, and were always regarded by 
them as belonging to the Bonin group. They are about twenty miles to the 
south of Port Lloyd. It was not until 1827 that Captain Beechey, com- 
manding the English surveying vessel, the Blossom, visited the islands, and 
taking formal possession in the name of the British king, gave English titles 
to them. The inhabitants practically disown the paternity of the English 

grow very well. The climate is warm and favorable to cultivation, as one might infer 
from their geographical position. They afford various valuable productions. The remain- 
ing seventy islets are only mere steep rocks, and produce nothing." 

"A colony of condemned criminals has been sent to these islands, there to labor; they 
have tilled the earth and planted some patches. They are collected in villages, and have 
brought together the same things found in' other provinces of the empire. One can visit 
these islands, and bring back their products in the same year. In this way a trade would 
easily spring up, and the benefit to be drawn from it would be considerable. This must 
be plain to all," 

" In the reign Au-Yei (from 1771 to 1780) I was sent on a commission into the province 
of Fisen, where I became acquainted with a Dutchman named Aarend Werle Veit, who 
showed me a geography, in which mention was made of some islands lying 200 ri to the 
southeast of Japan, called Woest eiland by the author. The word Woest means desert, and 
eiland or (yeirand, as the original reads) island. He remarks, that these islands are not 
inhabited, but that many sorts of herbs and trees are found there. The Japanese might 
establish a colony on one of these islands on which grain and other productions would 
thrive. In spite of the length of the voyage thither, the establishment would be useful to 
them for these purposes. The Dutch company would derive very httle advantage from the 
possession of these islands, they being too small and too remote for their use." 

" I have thought proper to repeat these words, which deserve to be borne in mind, and 
with them I bring to a conclusion all that I have to say respecting the Bonin Islands." 



230 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN, 

sovereign, and do not recognize the names given in his self-assumed sponsor 
ship by the English captain. For example, the very dignified appellations 
of Buckland and Stapleton, with which Beechey has honored two islands of 
the northern group, are quite ignored by the inhabitants, who speak of these 
places respectively as Goat and Hog islands. When the English visited 
and took possession of the Bonins, the date of the visit and the act of ap- 
propriation were duly engraved upon a copper plate which was nailed to a 
tree, but the plate and the tree are no longer there, and the only evidence 
of British possession is the occasional hoisting of the English flag on one 
of the neighboring hills, a duty that was originally delegated to a wandering 
Englishman who chanced to be on the spot. It is now considered merely a 
signal to be hoisted on the arrival of a vessel. No government is recognized 
by the inhabitants, who declare that they have no need of any foreign con- 
trol, as they can take good care of themselves. 

In the year following the visit of Captain Beechey, a Captain Lutke of 
the Russian navy arrived, and went through very much the same ceremony 
of taking possession and of otherwise appropriating as his English predecessor. 

It is quite clear that the Japanese were the first discoverers of these 
islands. They probably settled and then subsequently abandoned them. It 
is possible that the early Spanish, Portuguese, and Dutch navigators may 
have been acquainted with the Bonins, and in later years they have been 
visited occasionally by the Americans, English and Russians. The fact of 
a Spanish visit would seem to be proved by the name of Arzobispo or Arch- 
bishop, by which the islands are sometimes distinguished. One of the in- 
habitants reported that he recollected, on his arrival on the spot, that there 
was a board on a tree which recorded the first Russian visit. Neither of 
the European nations have as yet made any attempt at colonization. 

In 1830, several Americans and Europeans came to the Bonins from the 
Sandwich Islands, accompanied by various natives — men and women — of 
that country. 

The leaders of this adventure were five men, two originally from the 
United States — Nathaniel Savory and Aldin B. Chapin, of Massachusetts — 
one from England of the name of Richard Mildtchamp, one, Charles John- 
son, of Denmark, and the fifth a G-enoese known as Mattheo Mazara. The 
only one of these remaining on the island during the visit of Commodore 
Perry was Nathaniel Savory, an American. Mildtchamp still survives, but 
has taken up his residence at Gruam, one of the Ladrone Islands. The 
Genoese, Mazara, is dead, and Savory has married his widow, a pretty and 
young native of Guam, by whom he has offspring. Savory occupies himself 
with the culture of a little farm, which is tolerably productive. He also 
carries on a trade in sweet potatoes of his own raising and in a rum of his 
own distillation from sugar cane, with the whaling ships which frequent the 
place ; and he had prosecuted his business with such success as to accumu- 



GEOLOGY OF THE BONINS. 231 

late, at one time, several thousands of dollars. These he deposited in the 
ground, when, some three or four years since, a schooner arrived under the 
American flag, bringing a few worthless scoundrels, who ingratiated them- 
selves, under the pretence of great friendship, with the old man, who was 
thus induced to make them the confidants of his success, and of its proof 
which he had stored away. These villains, after living for several months 
on terms of great intimacy and confidence with Savory, left the island, hav- 
ing first robbed their benefactor of all his money, despoiled his household of 
a couple of young women, whom they took away with them, carried off his 
journal, and wantonly injured his property. Fortunately for justice, the 
guilty party were afterwards arrested at Honolulu, but the captive women 
expressed themselves quite contented with their lot, and declared that they 
had no desire to return. As for the money, it was not learned whether that 
was ever recovered or not. 

The islands of Bonin are high, bold, and rocky, and are evidently of 
volcanic formation. They are green with verdure and a full growth of tropi- 
cal vegetation, which crowds up the acclivities of the hills, from the very 
borders of the shore, which is, here and there, edged with coral reefs. The 
headlands and detached rocks have been thrown by former convulsions of 
nature into various grotesque forms, which assume to the eye the shape of 
castle and tower, and strange animals, of monstrous size and hideous form. 
Numerous canal-like passages were observed opening in the sides of the 
rocky cliffs, which had almost the appearance of being hewn out with the 
chisel, but which were evidently formed in the course of volcanic changes, 
when the rock flowed with liquid lava, and found issue in these channels, 
which the torrents that came down the sides of the mountains in the rainy 
season toward the sea have worn smooth by constant attrition. Some of 
these dykes, or canal-like passages, less affected by time and the washing of 
the water, still retain their irregular formation, which has so much the ap- 
pearance of steps that the observer, as he looks upon them, might fancy 
they had been cut by the hand of man in the solid rock, for the purpose of 
climbing the mountain. On the Southern Head, as it is called, within the 
harbor of Port Lloyd, there is a very curious natural cave or tunnel, which 
passes through the basaltic rock, from the Southern Head to the beach on 
the other side. The entrance has a width of about fifteen feet, and a height 
of thirty, but the roof within soon rises to forty or fifty feet, where it has 
so much the appearance of artificial structure, that it may be likened to a 
builder's arch, in which even the keystone is observable. There is sufl&cient 
water for a boat to pass from one end to the other. There are several other 
caves or tunnels, one of which is at least fifty yards in length, and passes 
through a headland bounding the harbor. This is constantly traversed by 
the canoes of the inhabitants. 

The geological formation of the island is trappean, with its various con- 



232 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

figurations and mineralogical peculiarities ; columnar basalt appears, and 
hornblende and chalcedony are found. There are all the indications of past 
volcanic action, and the oldest resident of Peel Island stated that two or 
three tremblings of the earth, giving evidence of a liability to earthquake, 
are experienced annually even now. 

The harbor of Port Lloyd (as Beechey named it) is on the western side^ 
and nearly in the centre of Peel Island. It is easy of ingress and egress, 
and may be considered as safe and commodious, though of deep anchorage. 
Yessels usually anchor in from eighteen to twenty-two fathoms. The port 
is laid down on Beech ey's chart as in latitude 27° 5^ 35 ^^ north, and 142° 
11^ 30''^ east longitude. This position, however, is believed to be erroneous 
for, according to two sets of observations, made by the master of the Sus- 
quehanna, the longitude was found to be 142° 16^ 30^^ east; five miles more 
to the eastward than Beechey makes it. The safest anchorage is to be 
found as high up the harbor as a ship can conveniently go, having regard to 
depth and room for swinging and veering cable Beechey's directions for 
entering the port are sufficient correct. 

Wood and water can be procured in abundance, though the former must 
be cut by the crew, and taken on board the ship green. The water is ob- 
tained from running streams, and is of good quality. Timber for building 
purposes is rather scarce, and would soon be exhausted if any increase of 
population should render the erection of many houses necessary. The best 
kinds of wood are the jamana and wild mulberry, the former of which is 
very like the red wood of Brazil and Mexico, and is very enduring. 

The harbor of Port Lloyd and the neighboring waters abound with 
excellent fish, which may be taken by the hook or net, although the places 
for hauling the seine are few, owing to the coral which in many parts lines 
the shores. The best place for this purpose is upon the beach which borders 
" Ten Fathom Hole," a deep portion of the bay which is close to the coral 
reef that extends out from the shore. The varieties of fish are not numer- 
ous ; among those taken in the seine belonging to the Susquehanna, there were 
but five observed : the mullet, which seemed to be the most abundant, two 
varieties of perch, the gar, and the common ray. Sharks are very numerous, 
and, when quite small, frequent the shallow places among the coral rocks, 
and are there pursued by the dogs, seized upon and dragged on shore. 

There is an abundance of excellent green turtle, of which the ships ob- 
tained large supplies ; there are also plenty of cray fish. The varieties of 
the testacea are numerous, but none that was observed of any rarity, and 
none edible except the chama gigas, which, however, is very tough and 
indigestible. The family of the Crustacea is very extensive, of which the 
land crab forms the chief part, and which exists in every variety of size, 
form, and color; one of the most abounding is that which is commonly 
known as the " pirate." This animal can be seen in every direction near the 



PRODUCTS OF PEEL ISLAND. 23S 

shore, travelling about with its odd-looking domicil upon its back, which it 
seems to have got possession of rather by chance than from choice. The 
" pirate" has no home of its own, but appropriates, whence its name, that 
which belongs to others. It has a decided preference for the shells of the 
buccina, murex, and bulla, which have the comfortable proportions of an 
inch and a half or so in length ; but if such desirable quarters should, by 
any mischance, happen to be scarce, the " pirate" readily turns into the next 
most suitable dwelling of some neighbor at hand. It is necessary that the 
animal should have some snug corner whtrein, if not to lay its head, at any 
rate to put its tail, for the latter is soft, and requires constant protection. 
Thus, when the " pirate " moves about, his head and claws are always pro- 
truded, but his rear is covered with his borrowed shell. It is still an 
unsettled question whether this animal appropriates the domicils of oth- 
ers by first rudely ejecting their living occupants, or more considerately 
waits until a natural death or some fatality vacates the quarters, and then 
takes possession. The " pirate" is a voracious creature, and seizes with 
great avidity upon anything eatable that comes in its way. 

The scarcity of birds, both of sea and land species, struck every one as 
singular. There were not more than four or five varieties of the latter, the 
largest of which were the crow and the pigeon, the others being of small 
size. There were but few gulls or other sea-birds; on approaching the 
islands, some petrel were observed, of unusually large size and of singularly 
brilliant plumage. 

Among the quadrupeds there were found sheep, deer, hogs, and goats, 
with an infinite number of cats and dogs. The cats and hogs, having lost 
some of their quiet domestic virtues, had strayed into the jungle, and were 
dignified by the inhabitants with the title of wild animals, and were accord- 
ingly hunted with dogs. On Stapleton Island, the goats, which were placed 
there by some of the early settlers, have increased prodigiously, as have also 
these animals, together with the hogs, put upon the other islands. Commo- 
dore Perry left on shore on the north side of Peel Island, with a view to 
their increase, two bulls and two cows, and on North Island five Shanghai 
broad-tailed sheep, of which two were rams, and six goats. 

Peel Island is the only one of the Benin group inhabited, and it con- 
tained on the visit of the Commodore but thirty-one inhabitants, all told : of 
these, three or four were native Americans, about the same number English- 
men, one a Portuguese, and the remainder Sandwich islanders and children 
born on the island. The settlers have cultivated patches of land of some 
extent, and raise a considerable quantity of sweet potatoes, Indian corn, 
pumpkins, onions, taro, and several kinds of fruit, the most abundant of 
which are water-melons, bananas, and pine-apples. These productions, to- 
gether with the few pigs and poultry that are raised, find a ready sale to the 
whale ships constantly touching at the port for water and other supplies. 



234 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

During the few days the Susquehanna was at anchor in the harbor, three 
whalers, two American and one English, communicated by means of their 
boats, with the settlement, and carried away a good stock of provisions. 
These are obtained ordinarily in exchange for other articles from on board 
the ships, of which ardent spirits is to some of the settlers the most accept- 
able. Were it not for the scarcity of labor a much greater extent of land 
would be cultivated. At present there cannot be more than a hundred and 
fifty acres throughout the whole island under cultivation, and this is in 
detached spots, generally at the seaward termination of the ravines through 
which the mountain streams flow, and thus supply an abundance of fresh 
water, or upon plateaux of land near the harbor. The soil is of excellent 
quality, and resembles very much that of Madeira and the Canary Islands, 
which are in the same parallel of latitude. It is admirably adapted for the 
cultivation of the vine, and for the raising of wheat, tobacco, sugar-cane, 
and many other valuable plants. In fact, the settlers already produce enough 
sugar and tobacco for their own consumption. 

The few people who live on Peel Island seem happy and contented. 
Those of European origin have succeeded in surrounding themselves with 
some of the comforts and appliances of civilization. In one of the cottages 
there was observed several compartments, and what with hangings from the 
walls of Chinese matting, a chair or two, a table, a plentiful distribution 
of blue paint, and some gaudily colored lithographs, there seemed not only 
on the part of the proprietor a desire for comfort, but even a taste for lux- 
ury. 

The Sandwich islanders, or Kanakas, as they are now familiarly known 
to sailors and traders, live very much as they do in their native islands, and 
have grouped together their palm thatched huts, which have somewhat the 
appearance of one of their native villages. The inhabitants, living a quiet 
and easy life in a climate which is genial and wholesome, and upon a land 
whose fertility supplies them, in return for but little labor, with all they 
want to eat and drink, do not care to change their condition. The Ameri- 
cans and Europeans have taken to themselves wives from anjong the good- 
natured and substantial Kanaka women. 

Commodore Perry being desirous of obtaining as full information as 
possible of Peel Island during his short visit, determined to send parties of 
exploration into the interior. He accordingly detailed certain officers and 
men for the purpose, who were divided into two companies, one of which 
was headed by Mr. Bayard Taylor, and the other by Dr. Fahs, assistant 
surgeon. 

These gentlemen, having been duly armed and equipped, started early 
on the morning of the 15th of June, with a view of devoting the day to the 
proposed exploration. The party headed by Mr. Taylor, whose steps we 
shall first follow in the narrative, and whose report as submitted to the 



EXPLORATION OF PEEL ISLAND. 235 

Commodore we shall freely use, was composed of eight : Mr. Bayard Taylor, 
Mr. Heine, the artist, Mr. Boardman, midshipman, Mr. Lawrence, assistant 
engineer, Mr. Hampton, purser's steward, Smith, a marine, Dennis Terry, 
seaman, and a Chinese coolie. As Peel Island is only six miles in length, it 
was thought that one day was quite sufficient time for two parties properly 
distributed to explore so small a space. The northern part of the island, 
which is that which stretches immediately around the harbor, was the field 
of operation appropriated to the doctor's party, while the southern half fell 
to the duty of the explorers whose steps we are now about to follow. 

At early sunrise the party left the Susquehanna and were rowed ashore 
to the watering place at the head of the bay. On reaching this point the 
rations and ammunition were distributed to each, so that all might, as far as 
possible, be equally burdened. A Kanaka, who was met at the landing, was 
urged to accompany the party as a guide, but he was not disposed to comply, 
although he pointed out a small footpath, which he stated led over the hills 
to a Kanaka settlement about three miles distant. This direction was at 
once followed, which led them by a steep and slippery path through a wilder- 
ness of tropical growth. Palm trees, among which was the sago palm, that 
produces the sago of commerce, abounded ; parasitic plants hung in festoons 
from branch to branch, and by their close net-work, interwoven with the 
trees, hindered the progress at every step, while the dew which dripped in 
the early morning from the thick foliage of the overgrown thicket wetted 
each one to the skin. The soil was observed to be that which is common 
about Port Lloyd and other parts of the island, and seemed composed of the 
detritus of trap rock and the decomposed refuse of the plants and trees. 
Rock of trap formation protruded frequently in rough crags from the steep 
sides of the hills, and in the crevices grew a beautiful variety of the hibiscus, 
with its large flowers of a dull orange, whose petals were tipped with yellow 
of a lighter shade. A shower of white blossoms, which had fallen from a 
large tree of thirty feet in height, strewed here and there the ground. 

The course was up the ridge of the hill, and as it continued to the 
summit the vegetation became more and more profuse, until the expanding 
tops of the palm, the crowding together of the trunks of the trees, and the 
dense net-work of the hanging vines, so shrouded the sun that the path was 
covered with a deep shade, through the darkness of which the eye could 
hardly penetrate to a greater distance, in any direction, than twenty or 
thirty feet. It was difficult at times to trace the path. "When the party 
had reached the water-courses of the streams which flowed down the other 
side of the ridge they were ascending, multitudes of land crabs pattered 
away in every direction, frightened out of their coverts by the approaching 
footsteps. 

The ridge at its summit widened into an undulating surface of a mile 
and a half or so in breadth, and was furrowed with deep gullies. The de- 



236 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

clivity on the other side of the ridge, below which opened a deep ravine, 
was so steep that the men were obliged to let themselves down by swinging 
from tree to tree. This ravine between the steep mountains, which, with the 
exception of the bared rock here and there, were profusely covered with 
vegetation, presented a wild aspect, with a stream of water flowing over a 
rocky bed through thickets of undergrowth and masses of tropical vegetation 
spreading over the rocky cliffs and down the hills on all sides. 

The party now crossed the stream, and coming upon a field of the tare 
plant, which was of remarkably luxuriant growth, struck directly through 
it and reached the forest beyond. Finding it impossible, however to make 
their way in that direction, they turned back through the taro and regained 
the stream. The path was now recovered, which was found to lead through 
a valley which bore signs of habitation. Cultivated patches of ground 
showed themselves here and there with flourishing crops of sweet potatoes, 
taro, tobacco, sugar-cane, pumpkin, and the sida or Indian gooseberry, 
which seemed to grow with wonderful luxuriance. In the centre of the 
valley two palm-thatched huts were observed, but the party, upon coming up 
to them and entering, found they were uninhabited, although there were 
signs of their having been occupied that morning. Guns were then fired to 
attract the attention of any inhabitants who might be within hearing, and a 
good result was soon apparent by the answering signal of a shout, whicli 
was immediately followed by the appearance of a South Sea islander, with 
a face tattooed of a light blue, and clothed in coarse cotton shirt and trow- 
sers. He introduced himself under the dignified title of " Judge," and 
professed to be a native of Nukahwa in the Mar(][uesas Islands. This Mar- 
quesite seemed to be in a very flourishing condition. He had a hut to live 
in, a plantation to cultivate, and made a fair show of live stock with his dogs 
and four pigs. The " Judge " was very affable, and in a very friendly man- 
ner gave freely all the information at his command. He pointed out to his 
visitors how the valley turned round the spur of the mountain and opened 
westward to the sea. The stream was here only a creek in appearance, but 
was of sufficient depth to float canoes, in one of which the " Judge " had 
just arrived from a turtle hunt, and had brought with him a fine animal, 
which he busied himself with cutting up in the wistful company of his four 
dogs, who were licking their chops with a hopeful anticipation of their share 
of the feast. 

The " Judge " was requested to guide the party to the southern end of 
the island, which he stated to be about three or four miles distant, with- 
out, however, any pathway to it. His companion, however, who knew the 
way, was sent for, and a copper-colored Otaheitan, who hardly spoke Eng- 
lish, soon presented himself He acknowledged that he was acquainted with 
the route, and familiar with the wild boar haunts, but refused to go with 
the party unless joined by the " Judge," who, after some hesitation, consent- 



EXPLORATION OF PEEL ISLAND. 237 

ed, with the understanding that he should be allowed to stow away his turtle 
flesh before starting. This, of course, was readily conceded. 

The valley in which the explorers found themselves was estimated to be 
about a mile in length, and its widest part was a quarter of a mile in 
breadth. The main branch of the valley was not that which had been 
entered, but took an easterly direction, through which a stream flowed; the 
southern part seemed to be impassable, from being walled up with rocks 
heaped one above the other. From the " Judge's" hut the sea was said to 
be about half a mile distant. The soil of the valley is of a rich loam, and, 
judging by the flourishing appearance of the vegetables and crops grown by 
the settlers, exceedingly fertile. The tobacco was particularly vigorous in 
growth, being five feet in height. The water of the stream is sweet and 
pure, and the supply constant. Some lemons, which the '' Judge " had 
stored away in his hat, he said came from the north of the valley. 

The party, now under the guidance of the " Judge" and his companion, 
took an E.S.E course, following through the ravine the stream. The bed of 
the stream was in various places crowded with large boulders of trap rock, 
heaped confusedly one upon another. The vegetation presented the usual 
tropical profusion of trees, parasite plants, and undergrowth. From the 
denseness of the woods and the greasy, slippery nature of the soil, the pro- 
gress of every step was toilsome and painful. Two of the party in the rear, 
while those in advance awaited upon a cliff their coming up, started a wild 
boar, and fired at him a passing shot, but without effect. The dogs which 
belonged to the settlers were not of much use, for they kept clinging to the 
heels of their masters, instead of ranging the forest and beating up the 
game from its cover. 

On leaving the water-course the explorers climbed the southern side of 
the ravine, which they could only do by clinging to the roots or to the tough 
vines which hung from the trees. In the deep shadow and turnings of the 
wood, through which there was no path, the members of the party became 
scattered, and the leaders were again obliged to await at the summit of the 
ridge the coming of those who lagged behind. Among the various palms, 
which grow abundantly, some specimens of the palma latina were observed 
at this spot, with immensely broad leaves and stems nearly eight feet in 
length, the jagged edges of which wounded the travellers' hands as they 
struggled through the forest. The jpandanus was also seen, with its shoots, 
sometimes twenty or thirty in number, sticking down and outwards from the 
lower part of its straight trunk, and rooting themselves in the ground, until 
they formed a pyramidal base, from which the tree rose in a slender column, 
covered with a graceful capital of foliage. 

While some of the party were resting upon the ridge, waiting for their 
companions who had fallen behind, a great barking of dogs rose from a 
neighboring ravine, at which two of the party started off at once. Several 



238 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

shots from the company were soon heard, and Mr. Taylor, the leader, fol- 
lowed, making for the direction of the sound, and, after plunging through 
an almost impenetrable thicket, in the course of which he came upon the lair 
of a wild animal, arrived at the bed of a brook, where the hunters were 
grouped about a young boar. He was not over a year old, and, with his 
long snout and the dirty, dark grey color of his bristling hide, looked some- 
what like the Chinese hog. Mr. Hampton, one of the party who had been 
left behind upon the ridge, was now sent for; but the "Judge," who had 
gone in search of him, soon returned, stating that he was sick, and unable to 
come up. Mr. Hampton, however, in a short time gathered strength enough 
to follow, and succeeded in reaching the party, although evidently much 
overcome with fatigue. As the Otaheitan guide, however, said that it was only 
two miles to the southern end of the island, Mr. Hampton resolved to con- 
tinue with his companions, instead of returning, as had been proposed, with 
the " Judge" to the valley. The explorers having taken with them the liver 
and the kidneys of the wild boar, hung up his carcase upon a tree to remain 
until their return, and then continued their course. 

In about a half hour afterward the ridge which divides the island was 
crossed and the top of the slope of the southern side reached. From this 
point the sea was seen and a view obtained of Bailey's Island, rising from 
the surface in the distance, a little west of south. It was now found neces- 
sary to alter the course of the route, for the guide had taken the party too 
far to the right, and led them to the brink of a steep precipice which it was 
impracticable to descend. There was some difficulty now in retracing their 
steps, for they had got so near to the precipice that they were forced to 
creep along with great caution, clinging to the strong grass and shrubs 
which grew upon the brink. By this mode of procedure, for the extent of 
two hundred yards or so, they succeeded in reaching a place where the 
precipice terminated, but where the descent was still so steep that it was 
found necessary for each man, as he descended, to place himself upon his 
back and thus slide down the declivity, taking care to check his speed by 
occasionally clenching the earth or some projecting bush. Finally, the 
ravine below was reacted, but there was considerable disappointment on 
finding that the worst was not yet over; for, instead of coming upon a 
water-course, as was expected, which might lead gently to the sea side, it 
was discovered that there was a succession of rocky steps, varying from ten 
to fifty feet, down which it was necessary to clamber. At last the beach 
was reached ; and as those in advance looked up to their remaining compan- 
ions, some standing upon the edge of the cliffs, and others letting themselves 
down their precipitous sides, the undertaking just accomplished seemed a 
marvellous feat of labor, difficulty, and danger. 

The party now found themselves in what the guide called the South 
East Bay, which was said to be frequently visited by the whalers ; some of 



EXPLORATION OF PEEL ISLAND. 239 

whom had left evidence of their visits in the stump of a tree, which showed 
marks of having heen smoothly cut with a large axe. There was also a 
neglected bed of tomatoes, overgrown with weeds, seen stretched along the 
banks of the stream, which had certainly been planted there by the hand of 
man. On the gathering of all the company, who were almost worn out, 
and suffered much from the excessive heat, a fire was lighted, and the boar's 
liver and kidneys being duly cooked, a very excellent extemporaneous feast, 
with the addition of the pork and other rations brought with them, was pre- 
pared and voraciously discussed. The party being refreshed by their ban- 
quet and the rest they had enjoyed, and it being as late as two o'clock, deter- 
mined to return. When the guides announced that it was necessary to go 
back the way they came, the resumption of the labors, and the exposure to 
the dangers which had just been undergone, seemed quite appalling. There 
was, however, no alternative, and the party was forced to retrace their steps, 
but succeeded, finally, with a renewed experience of their former troubles, 
and after excessive fatigue, in reaching the valley whence they had set out 
with the " Judge" and his Otaheitan companion. 

It was six o'clock in the evening when they arrived at the " Judge's " 
quarters, so they spared themselves but little time for repose, but soon con- 
tinued their journeying. One of the party was so wearied with fatigue as 
to be obliged to proceed to the Kanaka settlement, at the south end of 
Port Lloyd, by the way of the sea, in a canoe, piloted by the Otaheitan. 
The rest went by land, attempting to return by the same route as that they 
had come. The path was not easily found, however, and the explorers 
suffered another hard experience in the forest and over the rough crags, 
where they were nearly lost among the entangled undergrowth, and much 
battered by the irregularity of the ground. Another member of the party 
gave out, but was brought along by main force, and having been deposited 
in a safe place on the summit of the ridge, under the care of one of the men, 
the rest pushed on ; and having reached the Kanaka settlement, at the south 
end of Port Lloyd, took their station on a cliff which overlooked the bay, 
and whence the great hull of the Susquehanna could be barely discovered in 
the surrounding darkness. Firing a volley with their guns, as a signal, they 
were soon answered by the arrival of the ship's cutter, and having sent back 
for the tired member of the party, they all pulled off for the steamer, where 
they arrived at ten o'clock at night, sorely bruised and fatigued by the hard 
day's work. The other party, under the command of the assistant surgeon, 
returned about the same time, and the result of the observations, as reported 
by Dr. Fahs, is now recorded. 

The volcanic origin of the island was clearly manifest from the existence 
of ancient craters. Trap rock, intermingled with amygdaloid and green 
stone, formed the basis of the island, as it did the loftiest peaks of the hills ; 
basaltic dykes were observed to pass through beds of sand, scoria, and 



240 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

cinders, and strata of old lava were traced along the seacoast and in other 
parts where deep sections of rock were exposed. A sulphur spring, charac- 
terized by the usual strong odor and taste of sulphuretted hydrogen gas, 
was discovered issuing from, one of the ravines, and iron pyrites abounded 
in many places. The vegetation, too, was such as is generally found in 
volcanic countries of the same latitude as the Bonin Islands. It would 
appear that Port Lloyd was at one time the crater of an active volcano, 
from which the surrounding hills had been thrown up, while the present 
entrance to the harbor was formed by a deep fissure in the side of the cone, 
through which a torrent of lava had poured into the sea, leaving, after its 
subsidence, a space into which the waters subsequently were emptied, 
bringing with them their usual deposits, which, together with the coral 
formation, now forms the bottom and sides of the harbor. 

The surface of the island is varied. Plains extend from the basis of 
the hills toward the sea-shore, and are composed of a dark vegetable mould, 
sometimes five or six feet deep, intermixed with the shells of marine animals, 
and the detritus of trap rock, and spread upon a foundation of coral. These 
plains are highly fertile, and those now cultivated produce a rich harvest of 
sweet potatoes of immense size, Indian corn, sugar-cane of wonderfully 
vigorous growth and excellent quality, yams, taro, melons, and the ordinary 
products of a kitchen garden. The Irish potato has been tried, but not 
sufficiently long to form an estimate of its probable success. The plains on 
the bay only have been cultivated as yet, but there is every reason to 
believe that the others are equally fertile, and might be made to yield 
sufficiently to support a large population. 

The hills rise in some places by a gentle slope from the plains, and in 
others abruptly by steep ascents, which give them the appearance of terraces 
rising one above the other. At the head of the bay two prominent peaks 
rise, which are known by the name of the Paps, one of which reaches the 
elevation of a thousand feet, and the other eleven hundred. They are 
clearly seen on entering the harbor, and are important guides to the naviga- 
tor. The springs in the northern half of the island, which was the field of 
survey now reviewed, are few, two only of which run constantly with a 
supply of pure drinking water. In the valleys there are several others, but 
they are so brackish or so frequently dry, that they cannot be relied upon as 
sources of supply. Through the ravines which intersect the valleys streams 
pour down into the sea during the rainy season, but their beds, crowded here 
and there with large boulders of trap rock, are hardly moist during the dry 
weather. 

The flora of the island is tropical, and was observed to be as beautiful as 
can be found in any similiar latitude. In the valleys and along the sea 
beach a tree of large size, called by the people living on the island the 
Crumeno, was seen in abundance. It had a thick and short trunk, with a 



PEEL AND STAPLETON ISLANDS. 241 

gray bark, a very dense foliage, with large oval leaves of smooth surface 
and bright green color, arrayed in clusters around the branches, from the 
ends of which grew tufts of beautiful white flowers. 

Dense forests of palm crowded up the hill-sides and into the ravines, 
and were of such close growth that their full development was hindered and 
other vegetation prevented. The fan-palm was the most abundant of the 
six species observed. Among the various trees was noticed a variety of the 
beech of considerable size, a large tree growing in abundance on the moun- 
tains, which somewhat resembled the dog-wood, and an immense mulberry 
with an occasional girth of thirteen or fourteen feet. Of smaller trees 
and plants, there were the laurel, the juniper, the box-wood tree, fern, 
banana, orange, pine-apple, and whortleberry. Lichens, mosses, and various 
parasitic plants were abundant. There were but few kinds of grasses, and 
most of them unfit for pasturage. The jungle weed, in the uncultivated 
tracts, is so dense that it crowds out almost everything else of its kind. 

The animals on the island were mostly imported, but had become wild in 
their habits from straying in the woods. Pigeons, finches, crows, and 
sandpipers, were found among the native birds, and the tortoise, the iguana, 
and a small lizard were the principal indigenous animals seen. 

In addition to the two surveys of Peel Island, the interesting results of 
which have been just recorded, the Commodore dispatched an officer to 
report on the general aspect and character of the island of Stapleton, from 
whose statement some valuable facts are derived. Stapleton Island, like the 
rest of the Bonin group, is of volcanic origin, and has a varied surface of 
plain, hill, and valley, with large tracts of fertile land. A small bay was 
found on the western side with apparently deep water, and surrounded by 
rocks and mountains varying from 800 to 1,500 feet in height, which protect 
it from the S. E. typhoons. 

A small promontory and coral reef were observed to divide this bay, and 
on the land bordering the northern section was a spring of cool, well-tasting 
water, coming out of a rock, and giving a supply of nearly three gallons per 
minute. The indigenous productions of Stapleton were the same as those 
on the other islands, but the goats which had been introduced there had 
increased marvellously, to the extent, it was supposed, of several thousands, 
and had become very wild in the course of their undisturbed wanderings 
through the secluded ravines and over the savage rocks of the island. 

The Commodore, having been long satisfied of the importance of these 
islands to commerce, was induced to visit them, chiefly by a desire of exam- 
ining them himself, and recommending Peel Island as a stopping place for 
the line of steamers which, sooner or later, must be established between 
California and China. To this end he caused the island to be explored, the 
harbor to be surveyed, and a few animals to be placed upon two of the 
groups of islands, as the commencement of a provision for future wants. 
16 



242 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

Garden seeds of every description were also distributed among the pres- 
ent settlers, and hopes were held out to them by the Commodore of a 
future supply of implements of husbandry and a greater number of animals. 
A suitable spot too was selected for the erection of offices, wharves, coal- 
sheds, and other buildings necessary for a depot for steamers. A title was 
obtained to a piece of land, which is admirably adapted to the desired 
purpose. It is situated on the northern side of the bay, near its head, with 
a front on the water of 1,000 yards ; and a good depth near the shore for the 
length of 500 yards, it might, by the building of a pier extending out fifty 
feet, be conveniently approached by the largest vessel afloat. 

In a letter addressed to the Navy Department, Commodore Perry has 
given at length his views of the conveniences of Peel Island for the estab- 
lishment of a depot for steamers. In this communication he says : 

" As my instructions direct me to seek out and establish ports of refuge 
and refreshment for vessels traversing these distant seas, I have, from the 
commencement of the cruise, kept constantly in view the port in which we 
are now at anchor,* and the principal harbor of the Benin Islands, as well 
for general convenience of resort, as to furnish connecting links, or suitable 
stopping places, for a line of mail steamers, which I trust may soon be 
established between some one of our Pacific ports and China, an event so 
much to be desired ; and, if accomplished, one that will be distinguished, 
even in the history of these remarkable times, as of the highest importance 
to the commerce of the United States and of the world. 

" The mails from the United States and Europe, by the way of Egypt, 
the Ked Sea, and Indian Ocean, arrive regularly at Hong Kong, almost to a 
day, twice a week in each month. From Hong Kong to Shanghai, five days 
may be allowed for the passage. To this point the British government 
would doubtless extend its mail if it were taken up by us and continued on 
to California. 

" Its transportation, by steam, from Shanghai to San Francisco, via the 
Benin and Sandwich Islands, would occupy thirty days, allowing three days 
for stopping for coal, etc. Thus, the distance from San Francisco to 
Honolulu, in the Sandwich Islands, is roughly estimated at 2,093 miles ; 
from Honolulu to Peel Island, 3,301 miles ; and from Peel Island to the 
mouth of the Yang-tzse-Keang, or Shanghai river, 1,081 miles; in all, 6,475 
miles ; and allowing 240 miles per day, the time at sea would be twenty- 
seven, and the time in port three days ; from San Francisco to New York 
twenty-two days would be required, making from Shanghai to New York 
fifty-two days. 

" The usual time occupied in transportiug the mail from England to 
Hong Kong, via Marseilles, (the shortest route,) is from forty-five to forty- 

* The Commodore is writing from Napha, in Lew Chew. 



IMPORTANCE OF THE BONIN ISLANDS. 243 

eight days ; add to that two days' detention at Hong Kong, and five more to 
Shanghai, would make the time required to reach the latter place from fifty- 
two to fifty-five days. 

" Shanghai might be considered the terminus of the English and the 
commencement of the American mail; and thus an original letter could be 
sent west by way of Europe, and its duplicate east by way of California, 
the first arriving at Liverpool about the time its duplicate reaches New 
York. 

" But apart from the advantages, and, I may add, the glory of perfecting 
a scheme so magnificent, this line of steamers would contribute largely to the 
benefit of commerce. Already many thousands of Chinamen are annually 
embarking for California, paying for their passages each $50, and finding 
themselves in everything, excepting water and fuel for cooking their food. 

" These provident people are the most patient and enduring laborers, and 
must, by their orderly habits, a(id greatly to the agricultural interests of 
California. 

" But Shanghai is now becoming the great commercial mart of China 5 
already does it outrival Canton in its trade with the United States, and 
when it shall be considered that the fine teas and silks, and other rare and 
valuable commodities of that part of China can be conveyed by means of 
steam to California in five, and to New York in eight weeks, it is impossible 
to estimate in anticipation the advantages that may grow out of an inter- 
course so rapid and so certain." * 

* The importance of the Bonin Islands to the advancement of commercial interests in 
the east is so great, that the subject has more or less occupied the mind of the Commodore 
since his return ; and this importance is best shown by the following document which has 
been placed in the hands of the compiler by Commodore Perry since this chapter was 
written : 

Notes mth respect to the Bonin Islands. 

My visit to the Bonin Islands forcibly impressed me with the idea of their importance 
as a point of rendezvous for vessels navigating that part of the Pacific ocean in which they 
lie, and especially as offering a port of refuge and supply for whaling ships resorting to those 
regions, as well as a depot for coal for a line of steamers which, ere long, must unquestion- 
ably be estabhshed between California and China, via Japan. 

Whales of several varieties abound in those parts of the ocean Ijdng between the Bonins 
and the coast of Asia, and are in greater numbers in the neighborhood of Japan. Until the 
establishment of a treaty with that singular empire, the masters of whaling vessels were cau- 
tious not to approach near to its shores, tmder a well-founded apprehension of falling into 
the hands of the Japanese, and suffering, as a consequence, imprisonment and cruel treat- 
ment. These fears should no longer exist, as the stipulations of the treaty make provision 
and offer guaranties not only for kind treatment to those Americans who may approach 
the coast, or be thrown by accident upon its hitherto inhospitable shores, but allow all Ameri- 
can vesssls under press of weather to enter any of its ports for temporary refitment ; and 
the ports of Hakodadi and Simoda are open for all purposes of repair or supplies. 



244 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

After a stay of four days at the Bonin Islands, the Susquehanna 
weighed anchor, and taking the Saratoga in tow sailed on the morning of 
Saturday the 18th of June, on the return voyage to Lew Chew. After 
clearing the harbor of Port Lloyd, the course was steered toward Disap- 
pointment Island. On the passage from Lew Chew to the Bonin Islands 
the Commodore had desired to sight and determine the position of this 
island, but although it had been made by the Susquehanna, which stood 
directly for it on the day previous to her arrival at Port Lloyd, there was 
no opportunity, in consequence of the approaching darkness, to make any 
observation but an approximation by means of computation. The Commo- 
dore, therefore, on his return voyage, was particularly desirous of seeing the 
island of Disappointment and determining with precision its position, about 
which so much has been said and written. Accordingly, as the island was 
made directly ahead a short period after noon, and passed at a distance of 
only three or four miles, its exact position was accurately determined by 
data derived from the noon-day observation. 

As, therefore, the ohstacles to a free navigation of the Japan seas no longer present 
themselves, our whaling ships may cruise in safety and without interruption as near to the 
shores as may he convenient, or in the seas lying more to the eastward. But to render 
this part of the ocean in all respects convenient to our whaling ships, something more is 
wanted, and that is a port of resort, which shall he in all respects free for them to enter and 
depart, without the restraints of exclusive laws and national prejudices ; for though, as he- 
fore remarked, the ports of Hakodadi and Simoda, in Japan, to which we may add Napha, 
in great Lew Chew, are hy treaty open to American vessels, a long time may elapse hefore 
the people of those ports will probahly divest themselves of the jealousies which they have 
hitherto entertained against strangers ; and it is well known that the crews of whaling ves- 
sels visiting the ports of the Pacific, are not remarkable for their orderly behavior or concil- 
atory deportment, hence my argument in favor of an establishment at the Bonin Islands is 
strengthened. My plan is to establish a colony at Port Lloyd, Peel Island, the principal of 
the Bonin group, leaving the question of sovereignty to be discussed hereafter. I have 
already in the narrative described those islands, and shall now proceed to set forth my plan 
for building up a thrifty settlement which shall extend over the entire group of islands. 

First, then, a company of merchants, in connexion with a few artisans, should form a 
joint stock company for the purpose of estabhshing a colony on Peel Island. The experi- 
ment need not involve any very great outlay. Two vessels, each of three or four hundred 
tons, suitably equipped for whaling, should be employed first in transporting to the island 
materials for the construction of a storehouse and a few small dwellings, and the necessary 
supplies for furnishing a store with chandlery, naval stores, groceries, and all such articles 
as are usually needed by whaling and other ships. After lauding the passengers and cargo, 
these vessels might proceed to cruise in the neighborhood and in the Japan seas in pursuit 
of whales — returning occasionally to the settlement for refreshment, &c, ; when these two 
vessels shall have jointly secured enough of oil to load one of them, that one should be sent 
home to be again refitted, and freighted with additional colonists and fresh supplies for the 
storehouse and for the settlers ; and so the two vessels might alternate in their voyages to the 
United States. Thus in a short time a colony would be built up, and the result prove pro- 
fitable to all parties concerned. Whaling vessels, American, English, and French, would 
resort in greater numbers to the port for refreshment and supplies, becoming customers in 



DISAPPOINTMENT ISLAND. 245 

It is a low island, with two detached rocks extending a cable or two in . 

length from its extreme point, and lies in latitude 27° 15^ north, and in 
longitude 140° 56^ 30^^ east from Greenwich. 

It is presumed that Disappointment and Rosario are one and the same 
island. 

From Disappointment Island the course of the ship was steered directly 
for the Borodinos as laid down in the ordinary charts. They were made on 
the 22d of June directly ahead, and were found to be two in number, 
situated five miles apart, and lying in a N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction. 
They appeared to be of coral formation but of great antiquity, as trees of 
considerable size crowned the uplands, the most elevated part of which may 
have been forty feet above the level of the sea. The navigation in the 
immediate neighborhood seemed free of danger, but no indentations were 
seen in the surrounding shore which might afford safe anchoring places. 
No signs of people were discovered, and it is presumed that the islands are 
uninhabited. The position of the extremity at the south of the southern 
island was estimated to be in latitude 25° 47 /, and in longitude 131° 19^ ^ 
east. 

As during the return voyage moderate breezes from S.S.W. to S.W. 
prevailed with warm weather, and as, in fact, the wind ever since the first 
departure from Napha had continued from the southward and westward, it 
may be inferred that the southwest monsoon extends as far north as the 
parallels of latitude in which the course of the ships laid. The Susque- 
hanna and Saratoga reached, in the evening of June 23d, their anchorage 
in the bay of Napha, where they found the Mississippi, the Plymouth, and 
the Supply. 

the purchase of needful articles for their vessels, and giving employment to the artisans and 
farmers of the colony. If money should he wanted by the whalemen visiting the port, to 
make payment for labor or supplies, oil at just prices would be taken in lieu thereof. There 
should be sent out by the company none but young married people, quarters for whom could 
be obtained in the houses of the present settlers tiU dwellings could be erected for their ex- 
clusive occupation. Thus the settlement would, in all probability, form the nucleus of a re- 
ligious and happy community ; and here a missionary station might be formed without 
obstacle, from whence missionaries at a proper season might be sent to Japan, Formosa and 
other benighted countries in that quarter of the globe. At the present time whalino- ves- 
sels cruising in the seas lying between the Sandwich Islands and Japan, are frequently 
obliged to resort either to those islands or to Hong Kong for refitment and supplies, a dis- 
tance from some of their whaling grounds of several thousands of miles ; in such a voy- 
age, and in the unavoidable delay in port, much time is occupied ; and apart from the 
enormous charges made at those ports, which make it necessary to draw heavily upon the 
owners at home, the crews become sickly and demoralized by their indulgence in dissipation. 
Now, a depot established at Peel Island would be central, and would probably be want- 
ing, for a length of years, at least, in the means for improper indulgence, for which the 
ports before mentioned are notorious. The right of sovereigny undoubtedly belongs to 
Japan, as the earliest known occupant of the islands; beyond this claim the present settlers 
have unquestionably priority of right of jurisdiction. 



CHAPTER XI 



Changes at Napba.— New Eegent— Banquet on "board of the Susquehanna. — ^Excessive dignity of the new 
Regent. — Stateliness of Lew Chawans thawed out by the Dinner. — Guests sent Home. — Bamboo Vil- 
lage. — Interior of Lew Chew Houses.— Men Indolent. — Gossipping at Lew Chew. — Lew Chew Loom, 
— Different classes of the People. — Their fear of Spies. — Slavery of Peasants. — Causes of Degradation. 
— Excellence of Agricultural Cultivation, — Origin of Population of Lew Chew.— Former Kingdoms 
on the Island. — Eelation of Lew Chew to China and Japan, respectively. — Education in Lew Chew. — 
Eeligion of the Inhabitants.— Christian Mission in Lew Chew. — Distinction of Dress. — People sell 
themselves as Slaves. — Clanship. — Coin in Lew Chew. — Sugar Making. — Natural Products of the 
Island. 




HEN the squadron returned to Napha, 
on the 23d of June, it was found that 
a new regent had been installed. The 
old occupant, who had so pertinaciously 
striven to prevent the Commodore's 
visit to Shui, and who had also so boun- 
tifully entertained our countrymen at 
his own habitation, had, it was said, 
been deposed. It was difficult to ascer- 
tain with certainty the causes of this 
degradation; but it was not to be 
doubted that, if true, it was in some 
mode connected with the presence of 
our ships at Napha, and probably resulted from the admission of the Com- 
modore and his suite into the royal residence at Shui. It was not a pleasant 
reflection to the officers that they should have been, however innocently, the 
cause of the poor old man's degradation ; and it seemed hard to understand 
why their visit should have led to more serious consequences than those 
produced by that of the officers of H. B. M. ship Sphynx to the same place. 
At first, it was rumored that the old regent had been obliged to perform the 
hara-Jciri, or disembowelling operation ; but the painful feelings produced 
by this intelligence were happily relieved by the sight of the old man in his 
house at Shui, by two of the officers of the Susquehanna. Dr. Bettelheim 
(who did not seem to feel any pity for the degraded dignitary) stated that 



ENTERTAINMENT TO THE LEW CHEWANS. 247 

he would probably be banished, with his family, to one of the smaller 
islands. 

The Commodore, who was quite satisfied with the conciliatory measures 
that had been pursued during his absence, now renewed his invitation to the 
regent and treasurer to dine on board the Susquehanna, on Tuesday, the 28th 
of June, offering to send boats for them. This invitation was accepted ; 
and the Commodore had reason to doubt the whole story of the old regent's 
degradation, from the fact that the new regent, Shang Hung Hiun, a mem- 
ber of the family of his predecessor, and a much younger man, did not 
hesitate to accept an invitation to the dinner, but went even further in his 
courtesies and attentions than the old regent had ever done. As far as he 
could ascertain the facts, the Commodore believed that the old man had 
voluntarily resigned in favor of the young one. 

On the appointed day of the feast, three of the ship's boats were sent 
ofi" to the creek at Tumai to bring on board the invited guests. On their 
arrival, and after the usual presentation of crimson cards, they came on 
board in robes of the finest and cleanest grass-cloth, and with haichee 
matchees of showy color on their heads. Captain Buchanan received them 
at the gangway, and conducted them through the various parts of the ship. 
The day was oppressively warm, and the visitors found it so sultry between 
decks, and especially in the engine room, that they were glad once more to 
stand upon the upper deck. The marines were under arms, and the band 
played to give honor to their reception. When dinner was announced they 
were ushered into the Commodore's cabin, and immediately sat down to the 
table. The entertainment was, of course, entirely in accordance with the 
European and American customs. The Commodore took the centre of the 
table, with the regent on his right hand and the chief treasurer on his left, 
while the mayor of Napha and one of the other treasurers were seated near 
the ends of the table, where they were taken in charge by the commanders 
of the diflferent vessels of the squadron. Mr. Williams and Dr. Bettelheim 
were present as guests and interpreters; while at a smaller table were 
Messrs. 0. H. Perry, Portman, Taylor, and Heine. None of the regent's 
suite were allowed to sit at table with him, but remained in attendance. 
His interpreter, Ichirazichi^ the same whom we have already presented to 
our readers, stood behind him. 

The new regent was a small man, apparently about forty-five years old, 
of more swarthy complexion than any of his suite, and with a slight cast in 
his left eye. He was remarkably grave and taciturn, seemed to be perpet. 
ually awake to the novelty of his position, having at times a restless and 
uneasy expression of countenance, and never spoke except when he was 
particularly addressed. It was very evident that he was less at his ease than 
any person present. This, perhaps, arose from his newly acquired rank, to 
which he had not yet become accustomed, and possibly some embarrassment 



248 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

may have been caused by tbe apprebension that be might be wanting in 
some of the proprieties of etiquette at an American dinner table. Perhaps, 
too, he was not without his fears that, surrounded as he knew himself to be 
by spies, his visit might bring in its train some unpleasant political conse- 
quences. His dress consisted of a dark purple or violet-colored robe and a 
cap of crimson. The treasurers, both old men, with wrinkled faces and 
scanty grey beards, wore similar caps, while their robes were yellow. The 
mayor was attired in a robe of pearl-white grass cloth, and had on his head 
a crimson cap. The hair of all was put up with massive gold pins, and 
their girdles were of rich Chinese silk. These various dresses were pre- 
sumed to be official, and in their diversity of color indicaiive of difference 
of rank. The inferior attendants who stood behind these dignitaries were 
dressed in blue and yellow with scarlet caps. 

Knives and forks were placed, in our usual fashion, for each guest. The 
first seemed to be very much in the way of the Lew Chewans ; with the last 
they did better, and showed some dexterity in making them answer the 
purpose of chop sticks. This, however, was a matter of but little moment, 
as, be the implements used what they may, hungry men will contrive in some 
mode to convey food to their mouths, and the Lew Chewans, like sensible 
men, manifested no intention of avoiding awkwardness at such a heavy 
price as the loss of a good dinner ; and the dinner was very good. Turtle 
soup, goose, kid curry, and various other delicacies formed part of the feast, 
which was spread with bountiful profusion. To the soup the mayor and 
treasurer did ample justice, and in their appreciation of its excellence 
were not unworthy rivals of a London Alderman. The cabin was sultry, 
and as the feast proceeded the guests grew warmer, (for they were very 
much in earnest,) until finally they asked permission to remove their caps, 
and this having been done, the attendant of each, standing behind, vigor- 
ously fanned the uncovered head of his master. Punch followed the soup, 
and furnished them with a new gustatory enjoyment. They had given the 
Commodore some of their saki^ and he was now resolved to give them a 
taste of the sahi made in all other parts of the world. So there were 
French and German wines, Scotch and American whiskey, madeira and 
sherry, and the gin of Holland, winding up with the sweet, smooth, strong 
maraschino, which decidedly, in their estimation, bore away the palm. They 
smacked their lips and shut their eyes at each sip of the limpid delicacy, 
and, in short, showed but a very sorry appreciation of the virtue of temper- 
ance. And while they were thus almost equalling Christendom in genteel 
dissipation, Mr. Heine, at the small table, was making a sketch of the 
group, and Mr. Portman was taking a portrait of the regent. 

After feeding heartily on the substantial, they asked leave to smoke 
their pipes ; it was of course accorded, and the chief treasurer, after a few 
whiffs, presented his, with the embroidered tobacco pouch attached, to the 



FEAST ON BOARD THE SUSQUEHANNA. 249 

Commodore. The mayor and other treasurers followed his example by 
handing theirs to Captains Buchanan and Adams. There seemed to he no 
end to the capacity of stomach in some of these officials. Preserved 
oysters and other articles of food sealed up in America, excited an admira- 
tion as boundless as their appetites. Part of the dessert consisted of melons 
and bananas brought from the Bonin Islands. These took them completely 
captive, and they begged that they might carry some home to their wives. 
They were, of course, told to do so ; and forthwith the loose folds of each 
one's robe above his girdle were converted into a pocket, and loaded with 
what it would hold. 

When things had reached this stage, there was but too much reason to 
fear that " the tide of wine and wassail was fast gaining on the dry land of 
sober judgment." All reserve was now fully thawed out. The quiet repose 
of a calm contentment sat enthroned on the shining face of the jolly old 
mayor of Napha. The wrinkled visages of the two withered old treasurers 
flushed and expanded into rubicund fullness. The regent alone preserved 
his silent, anxious demeanor, and all he drank was neutralized in its effects 
by his excessive dignity. He appeared cordial and friendly but once, and 
that was when the Commodore offered him an assortment of American 
garden seeds and vegetables. These he promised to plant and carefully 
cultivate. The Commodore had previously landed, as a present, cattle and 
buffaloes ; these he also promised should be carefully looked to and their 
offspring preserved. 

The band had been playing on the deck while the guests were feasting, 
and when the weightier part of the festival was over the Commodore ordered 
down some of the more expert performers, to play solos on the flageolet, 
hautboy, clarionet, and cornet-a-piston. The regent listened attentively 
but the mayor and treasurers were too busy in stowing away the epular 
fragments to be moved by any " concord of sweet sounds." Coffee was 
offered them, under the name of " American tea." They did not relish it, 
and resorted once more to their pipes. The attendants had not been for- 
gotten. They had enjoyed an abundance of meat and drink in the steward's 
pantry, and relished it quite as much as their masters. But all earthly 
enjoyment must have an end, and the feast at last was over. The guests 
were put on shore at Tumai, leaving the ship under a salute of three guns ; 
and so ended the dinner given to the regent on board the Susquehanna. 

The return to Lew Chew afforded to some of the officers an opportunity 
of making further examinations as to the external aspect of the island, and 
cf catching further glimpses of the habits and pursuits of the inhabitants. 
Pne of the gentlemen attached to the Saratoga thus describes the result of 
one of his explorations: 

" Rambled over the hill this afternoon to a most remarkable village. 
Approaching toward the spot, it appeared to be a thick swamp of green 



250 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

brushwood. Not a house, nor anything of the kind, was to be seen. It 
looked like one of those long, low, marshy thickets, in which I hunted for 
blackbirds' eggs, in my boyhood. But on reaching it, after crossing a wide 
clear field of grass, we passed into and through one of the sweetest little 
villages I ever entered, completely embowered with thickly matted tops of the 
tall and swaying bamboo, artistically laid off in squares, with level streets 
of red sandy soil, overarched with the branches of the bamboo, that formed 
hedges on either side, through which, at regular distances, were openings into 
the gardens surrounding the dwellings of the inhabitants, highly cultivated 
with a variety of vegetables. I had neither read of nor seen a town like 
this." 

In the course of his ramble, the officer from whose journal this extract 
is made, entered several of the dwellings, for the purpose of gratifying his 
curiosity concerning the domestic arrangements. He found the floors inva- 
riably covered with thick mats, of regular width and length, laid side by 
side, as a carpet. These he found constituted the sleeping place at night, 
and to preserve them from dirt, the inhabitants always step on them with 
the feet bare, or covered with stockings only ; when they enter from with- 
out, they slip off their loose straw sandals at the door. In every instance 
where he entered, our informant found that the men were the drones of the 
hive, and the women the workers. From three to half a dozen of the 
former were invariably to be seen, seated upon their crossed ankles, in a 
circle, with a cup of live coals, a little box of fine cut tobacco, and a spit- 
toon, in the centre. Thus seated, in dreamy indolence, they would draw 
forth their little pipes from their belts, unsheath them, take a mere pinch 
of the tobacco from the box, and place it in the little metallic bowl of the 
pipe, which was not more than half the size of a young girl's thimble, light 
it, and after two or three long whiffs, they would retain the smoke for a minute 
or more, and then, with a strong impulse, send it through the nostrils, as 
the opium smoker does. This ended the enjoyment for that occasion. The 
pipes were then returned to their sheaths, when a little tea-pot, holding less 
than half a pint, with half a dozen cups, each of about the capacity of 
three teaspoons, was brought by a servant, and a general sipping took the 
place of smoking. The tea disposed of, the pipes were again resorted to, 
and thus did they alternate between tobacco and tea. Before rising to sep- 
arate, the saki was introduced and circulated, sometimes beyond the limits 
of prudence and discretion. These were the occupations of the " lords of 
creation; " the poor women, meanwhile, might be seen, half naked, delving 
with the hoe or the spade, in the adjacent gardens, under a scorching sun. 
Sometimes this idle gossipping over tea and the pipe is carried on in the 
open air, under the shade of some spreading tree. 

When the poor females are not thus employed in the cultivation of the 
earth, there is still found work enough for them of some other kind, for 



LOWER CLASSES OF LEW CHEW. 251 

their destiny is labor. In every house may be seen the loom for weaving 
grass cloth, and it is quite a curiosity in its way. It is small, not more than 
two feet high, and generally is placed in the corner of the room. The shut- 
tle is two or three feet long, so that before it leaves one hand of the weaver 
it may be grasped by the other. It is but a rude implement, and yet the 
fine, glossy fabric wrought by its agency is exceedingly beautiful. 

What has here been said must be understood as applying to the men who 
are not of the very lowest class. According to the best observations the 
Commodore could make, he classified the inhabitants into four grades : these 
were, first, the high officers of state ; secondly, the priesthood and literary 
men ; thirdly, the under officers and spies ; and lastly the laboring class, 
(including particularly the fishermen,) by the toil of which last all the rest 
live ; for it was never seen that any of the classes above named, except the 
last, ever appeared to have any thing to do, save the spies, and they might 
be met at every step. These infest every corner and every threshold. If the 
officers walked the streets, these fellows might be seen preceding or follow- 
ing them, directing all doors to be closed, and the women to keep out of 
sight. - The people, indeed, whenever they were sure of not being seen by 
some of these vermin, manifested no indisposition to communication and 
intercourse, and gladly received from the strangers little gratuities and pres- 
ents, which were taken with a trembling hand and instantly concealed, while 
their eyes glanced rapidly and furtively from side to side, to see that they 
were unobserved. The Commodore was deeply moved, as indeed were all 
the gentlemen of the expedition, by the tyranny exercised toward the mass 
of the people. " Grod pity these poor creatures ! " says the former in his 
journal : " I have seen much of the world, have observed savage life in 
many of its conditions ; but never ^ unless I may except the miserable peons 
in Mexico, have I looked upon such an amount of apparent wretchedness as 
these squalid slaves would seem to suffer." " The poor naked creatures, who 
toil from morning till night, know not the relaxation of a Sabbath, nor the 
rest of an occasional holiday, generally granted by even the most cruel 
taskmasters. The wages of a field laborer is from three to eight cents per 
diem ; the mechanic may receive ten. Out of this, he has to provide food, 
clothing, and shelter for a family, with which most of the common people are 
burdened, and it is surprising to see how soon the boys, for we see but little of 
the girls, are made to labor. In looking into a blacksmith's shop at Napha, 
I observed a father and two sons making nails ; the elder son, probably ten 
years old, was using the hammer, while the younger, not more than five, 
was blowing the bellows, or rather moving the piston of a sort of air pump, 
which required some amount of physical exertion. When we entered the 
shop, neither of the three took the slightest notice of us, but went on with 
their labor ; even the little boy scarcely lifted his eyes ; and this seeming 
indifference, it may be remarked, was the case with laborers and all others 



252 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

whom we met, when they supposed that the eye of a spy was upon them." 
" Whatever progress we may make in conciliating the higher classes, and we 
have made considerable, the lower orders of the people dare not, even by a 
look, evince the slightest emotion ; their stolid and impassive features 
express nothing but toil and care, and are a sufficient index of their abject 
condition." " I can conceive of no greater act of humanity than it would 
be to rescue, if possible, these miserable beings from the oppression of their 
tyrannical rulers." " These poor creatuies are the people who have been 
represented by Captain Basil Hall as so innocent and so happy ! " Well 
disposed, peaceful, and naturally amiable, our gentlemen generally believed 
them to be ; but they were ignorant, and had been long obliged to resort to 
the weapons of the weak; they were, therefore, cunning and insincere. 
Under proper treatment, something might be made of them, but at present 
they want the essential element of self-respect. Another obstacle in the 
way of their improvement is the impossibility of their ever procuring a 
vested right of ownership in the land. As far as the Commodore could 
gather information on the subject, it would appear that the soil is held by 
the government, and its agents are employed to collect and consume its 
produce. According to the best accounts that could be obtained, the actual 
cultivator receives not more than two-tenths of the produce. Of the 
remainder, six-tenths go to the lord of the soil, or ruler, and two-tenths for the 
expense of supervision of the land, costs of collection, &c. The peasant 
has thus no stimulus to exertion. Wretched, however, as this system is, 
and degraded as is the condition of the operative, it is astonishing to see the 
large returns from agricultural labor. Nowhere do the people better under- 
stand the art of producing the largest crops of which the land cultivated 
is capable ; no matter what may be the character and condition of the soil, 
or the relative position of the field cultivated. The same is said to be true 
of all the cultivated portions of the neighboring groups of islands. Every 
advantage is taken of circumstances, and irrigation is both understood and 
practised with skill and success. With such a soil and climate as Lew Chew 
possesses, if all parts of it that might be cultivated were made fields of 
agricultural labor, it would support a very large population. 

One of the subjects to which the attention of the Commodore was 
drawn, was the origin of the population of Lew Chew. Want of sufficient 
material has not enabled ethnology as yet conclusively to settle this question ; 
and, of course, the gentlemen of the expedition who attended to this 
particular had to find their way as best they might. Many speculations 
have been hazarded on the subject, founded on the very limited observations 
of the few Europeans who have visited the islands. Of Captain Hall we 
have already spoken. " The description of Captain Basil Hall," says the 
Commodore, " is a mere romance ; the production of the inventive brain of 
a writer not very scrupulous of historical truth ; and the account of Doctor 



ORIGIN OF THE LEW CHEWANS. 253 

McLeod, of the Alceste, is not much nearer to accuracy. Captains Beechey 
and Belcher, surveying officers of the British navy, have visited Great Lew 
Chew since those just named, and their statements may be considered as 
much more worthy of confidence ; hut, after all, such are the difficulties in 
the way, that they had not much, if any, better means of acquiring a knowl- 
edge of the history, laws, and civil institutions of this singular people, than 
had those who preceded them. Difficulties have also beset us in our inves- 
tigations, and all the facts we may learn are but contributions on a subject 
yet open to, and demanding more thorough investigation. We throw what 
we can gather into the common heap." 

As far as the Lew Chewans themselves bear testimony to their origin, 
they claim, like the Chinese, to have their descent from a divine source. 
According to Chow-Hwang, a Chinese writer, who was sent to Lew Chew in 
1757, as an envoy from China, and who on his return published an account 
of the island, " the islanders declare that the original progenitors of the 
Lew Chewans were two, a man and a woman. They had five children; the 
oldest was a son, named Teen-Sun, (Ofispring of Heaven,) who was the first 
master or ruler of the nation; the second son acted the part of his minister, 
and the third constituted the people. The older daughter, for the protection 
of the country, took the place of the God of Heaven, and the younger per- 
sonified the God of the Sea. Teen-Sun and his descendants, having maintained 
the government for 17,802 years, were at length succeeded by Shunteen, a 
branch of the then ruling family of Japan. This occurred about A. D. 
1200, when the Ming dynasty arose in China. Three kings ruled in Lew 
Chew; one was styled ' King of the Central Hills; ' the second 'King of 
the Southern Hills; ' and the third ' King of the Northern Hills.' All were 
tributary, and reigned by permission of ' the Son of Heaven.' At length 
the first became master of the whole country, which has ever since remained 
under one king, always acknowledging himself a tributary of the Chinese 
empire."* 

Klaproth, professing to follow Chinese and Japanese annals, gives an 
account agreeing pretty well with the foregoing by Chow-Hwang, and says 
further, that the race of kings reigning in Lew Chew is related to the impe- 
rial family of Japan ; that both China and Japan claim the sovereignty, and 
that the Lew Chewans pay tribute to both. 

As to the three kings of the " central," " northern," and " southern " 
hills, respectively, there is something in the discoveries of our exploring 
parties that may seem to give countenance to the truth of that portion of 
the story. It will be remembered by the reader that the explorers reported 
the discovery of the ruins of a castle or palace at Nagagusko ; the ruins of 
another were afterwards found, of which an account will be given on a future 

* Chinese repository for July, 1837, vol. VI. 



254 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

page, and these were no doubt the residences of the northern and southern kings, 
while the third at Shui, perfect, and still used as the royal residence, was the 
palace of the " King of the Central Hills." The traditions of Lew Chew 
even to this day (as our officers found) preserve the memory of the former 
existence of distinct sovereignties on the island. 

Chow-Hwang claims, as we have seen, sovereignty over the island at this 
day for the Chinese Emperor ; and one of the points which appeared difficult 
to determine, was the precise relation which Lew Chew bore to China 
and Japan respectively. That a tribute is sent in Chinese junks to China 
annually from Lew Chew seems to be an established fact, yet ihe officials of 
Lew Chew do not appear to be Chinese, and the common language ^f the 
country is not that of the celestial empire, though Chinese is understood 
and spoken by some of the Lew Chewans who are educated. As to any 
rights Japan may have, all we can say is, that the Japanese commissioners 
informed Commodore Perry at a subsequent period, when he met them in 
conference on the proposed points of a treaty, "that Lew Chew was a 
distant dependency, over which the crown [of Japan] had limited control." 
It is also certain that most of the trade to Lew Chew is carried on by 
Japanese junks. The testimony of the Lew Chewans themselves is con- 
tained in the following extract of a letter addressed to Commodore Perry 
by the officials of Napha : " Since the days of the Ming dynasty it has been 
our great pride to be ranked as one of the outer dependencies of China, and 
she has for ages given our king his investiture, and we have returned what- 
ever we could prepare for tribute; nothing of great importance to our 
nation has transpired but it has been made known to the Emperor. When- 
ever the time came for us to send up the tribute, we there [in China] 
purchased silk and pongee to make suitable official robes and caps for our- 
selves, and selected medicines and other things for the use of the state ; and 
if they were not enough for our own use, then through the island of Tuchara 
we have intercourse with a friendly and near nation, and exchange for our 
productions, as black sugar, saki, grass-cloth, and other articles, things which 
we send to China as tribute." The friendly and near nation alluded to is 
Japan. 

Dr. Bettelheim, who lived some years in Lew Chew, believed, for several 
good reasons, that " the country, though independent to a certain extent, (its 
ruler being permitted, for a good contribution to Pekin, to assume the high- 
sounding title of king,) yet is, to all ends and purposes, an integral part of 
Japan." His reasons were briefly these : 

1. " There is a Japanese garrison quartered in Napha." It must not, 
however, be understood that they show themselves openly, for the Lew 
Chewans pretend that they are an unwarlike people, without military arms 
or accoutrements ; but Dr. Bettelheim accidentally came upon a part of the 
garrison employed in cleaning their arms. 



LEW CHEW SUBJECT TO JAPAN. 255 

2. The trade of Lew Cbew is entirely with Japan. If the island were 
a Chinese dependency, this would not be so. Japan sends annually thirty 
or forty junks to Lew Chew, of about four hundred and fifty tons each ; only 
one Lew Chewan junk goes annually to China, and every alternate year one 
more, said to carry tribute, but not a single Chinese junk is ever allowed to 
enter Napha. 

3. The Japanese are to be found in numbers in Lew Chew, and stroll 
about as uninterruptedly as the natives ; they intermarry with the Lew 
Chewans, cultivate lands, build houses in Napha, and, in short, seem to be 
perfectly at home. But a Chinaman is as much hunted and spied after, and 
pelted and insulted, as any other foreigner. This is strikingly confirmed 
by the journal of one of our officers, who remarks, from facts that he was 
witness to : " They [the Lew Chewans] are evidently quite as much opposed 
to intercourse with China as with all other nations, notwithstanding the 
similarity, if not the identity, of their religion, literature, and many of 
their manners and customs. Indeed, they are de facto and dejure a part 
of Japan, and tiieir motto is, ' uncompromising non-intercourse with all the 
world.'" 

4. In all Dr. Bettelheim's intercourse with the Lew Chewan authorities, 
there were always present, at least, two individuals, who, it was obvious, had 
the management of the meeting and controlled the Lew Chew offi.cials. 
These he conjectured to be Japanese inspectors. 

5. The language, dress, customs, virtues, and vices of Lew Chew corre- 
spond to those of Japan, thus establishing a prima facie relationship. Of 
these the language is to the ethnologist the most satisfactory proof, and of 
the researches of some of our gentlemen, on this point, we shall speak more 
particularly in its appropriate place, on a future page. 

The English Bishop of Victoria, who, in the discharge of his official 
duties, visited Lew Chew in 1850, thus speaks on this subject : " On the 
whole, it seems far the most probable opinion that Lew Chew was peopled 
by a colony from Japan, to which people their physiognomy, language, and 
customs have a close affinity ; and that to China they owe the far more im- 
portant debt of their partial civilization and literature. The government 
of the country appears to consist in a grievous oligarchy of literati immedi- 
ately dependent upon Japan. They stand in great fear of the latter country, 
and look to it, and not to China, for protection in time of need. They 
have an historical tradition that a few hundred years ago, during the Ming 
dynasty, a war broke out between China and Japan, during which the 
former, wanting to detach Lew Chew from the latter, raised it to the dignity 
of a separate kingdom. In token of vassalage, every new king receives a 
formal investiture from a Chinese officer, specially deputed and sent for that 
purpose from Foo Chow ; to which city, also, a biennial tribute-junk is sent 
from Lew Chew. At the Tartar invasion of China, and the commencement 



256 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

of the present foreign dynasty, above two hundred years ago, about thirty- 
six Chinese families, unwilling to conform to the Tartar changes of costume 
and rule, emigrated to Lew Chew, the descendants of whom have become, 
generally, the schoolmasters of the country, and amalgamated with the 
people." The Commodore, from such observations as he could make, 
thought that the Lew Chewans were a mixture, made up possibly of Japan- 
ese, (who preponderated,) Chinese, Formosans, and, perhaps, Malays ; and 
that the island, commencing its population at a very early period, from some 
accident, such as shipwreck, had, from time to time, added to its inhabitants 
from the adjacent regions, -until the whole was fused into the present stock. 
In personal appearance the Lew Chewans did not seem to him to be une- 
quivocally either Chinese or Japanese in aspect. They are not a handsome 
people, nor yet can they be called decidedly ugly. Their complexion is 
rather Chinese, and they have black eyes and hair ; the latter of which, by 
the way, they do not dress after the Chinese fashion ; for, instead of long 
plaited tails hanging down behind, it is gathered, with great care and neat- 
ness, into a knot on the top of the head, and there fastened with a pin of 
silver or other metal — the nature of the metal used indicating the rank of 
the wearer. 

As to education, the opportunity afforded of acquiring information was 
necessarily limited, and the best account the Commodore could obtain on 
that subject was from Dr. Bettelheim, who had been for some years resident 
on the island. " In Shui," says he, " I have seen a building with an inscrip- 
tion, perhaps well rendered, ' University ^^ on the door. In Napha is a school 
for proficients in Confucian lore. But in general, learning — as far as it 
goes, 'i. e. a mere knowledge of Chinese characters and of some of their 
classical books — is diffused by the elder instructing the younger : a kind of 
Lancasterian system, carried on in the whole country, in almost every house. 
Still, there are schools beside, and likewise the Kung-Kwas, government 
houses 4n Napha, as well as Tumai, serve as schools. In the Kung-Kwas, 
however, no teacher is appointed ; but in the out-buildings usually added to 
every Confucian temple, I found often children assembled under the superin- 
tendence of a master, who seems to have the benefit of free residence and 
the adjoining grounds for salary." " Aping China in everything, Lew Chew 
has also its three yearly examinations, which, for the time being, make quite 
a stir in the learned world, but hold out no prospect for high station, as in 
China. At most, the fortunate candidate gets, beside a good fill of honor, a 
rice pension or a schoolmastership. The Samuns are also delegated, by 
turns, to teach in the country schools. By all these means the knowledge 
of the Chinese character is pretty widely diffused among the people, the 
women, only, being entirely without any literary culture." 

As to what is taught, all the books, as well as learning, in Lew Chew, 
comes from China, whither, yearly, some of the native youths of the higher 



EDUCATION IN LEW CHEW. 257 

class are sent for education. The Chinese character is in general use in 
Lew Chew ; but the inhabitants have also (says Dr. Bettelheim) a running 
hand of their own, which, he thinks, is the real ancient Chinese hieroglyphic, 
" awfully crippled." In some manuscripts which he saw in this writing, 
every Lew Chew character had opposite to it the modern legible Chinese 
sign; and many Lew Chewans do not understand the character at all. 
They are, however, very proud of it, and say it is a " language" of their own ; 
though, as far as could be ascertained, the signs used do not at all express 
the sounds of the spoken Lew Chew language, which is, undoubtedly, a dialect 
of Japanese. Neither is this writing, as has been said, identical with the 
Japanese hirakana. Most of the books seen in Lew Chew were in the 
ordinary Chinese character. The Japanese character, however, is under- 
stood ; for writings were seen, made by Lew Chewans, in the Kaiahana. 
With such apparatus for learning, it may well be supposed that the attain- 
ments of the masses, except in those matters which are communicated orally, 
must be limited. The Lew Chewans have no literature of their own, nor 
has any author, so far as we know, ever appeared aniong them. The Con- 
fucian classics of China are the text books, and these, says the Bishop of 
Victoria, " consist more in an apparently mechanical repetition of sounds 
than in any mental recreation from the sentiments contained in those literary 
monuments of a venerable antiquity." 

The reader will probably be somewhat interested to know something of 
the religious opinions of these distant islanders, and of the circumstances 
under which Dr. Bettelheim became a resident among them. As to the first, it 
may be said, in general terms, that the religion of the natives seems to be a 
mixture of Confucianism and Buddhism. But it is best to let them on this 
head speak for themselves. When the Bishop of Victoria was at the island, 
in 1850, the captain of H. B. M. steamer, the Reynard, received two com- 
munications from the native authorities, written in Chinese, in the latter of 
which they thus speak : " Now, as to the religion of the Lord of Heaven," 
[this is the phrase by which they designate Christianity,] " we have, from 
ancient times, attended to the doctrines of Confucius, ^nd found therein 
principles wherewith to cultivate personal morality, and to regulate our 
families, each according to our circumstances and condition in life. We 
endeavor, also, to carry out the government of the country according to the 
rules and maxims which have been handed down to us by the sages, and are 
calculated to secure lasting peace and tranquillity. Besides, our gentry, as 
well as the common people, are without natural capacity ; and, although they 
have attended exclusively to Confucianism, they have as yet been unable to 
arrive at perfection in it. If they should now, also, have to study, in 
addition, the religion of the Lord of Heaven, such an attempt would surpass 
our ability, and the heart does not incline to it." 

On the compound of Confucianism and Buddhism many superstitions 
17 



258 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

have been grafted. Filial reverence here, as in China, is the chief of virtues, 
and, theoretically, at least, underlies as a basis the system of government, 
which is professedly patriarchal. This, as the Bishop of Victoria has well 
remarked, is the great source of slavery, and opens a wide door for the 
grossest tyranny on the part of the so-called paternal rulers. How far 
these poor and oppressed beings are in a condition to be impressed by the 
truths of Christianity it would be difficult to say ; but, from the early expe- 
rience of Dr. Bettelheim, there is reason to think that the common people, 
if left to themselves, would be willing listeners to the Christian teacher ; 
and the benevolence of gospel principles would probably contrast so strongly 
and advantageously with the cruelty and oppression under which they groan, 
that we cannot but believe there are few spots of paganism where, under 
God's blessing, efforts to Christianize would probably be more successful 
than in Lew Chew, were the people left to freedom of thought and action. 

As to the establishment of Dr. Bettelheim as a missionary in the island, 
its history, as we gather from the Bishop of Victoria, is briefly this : Not 
many years ago, certain pious officers of the British navy, (among whom 
was prominent Lieutenant Clifford, who, we believe, visited the island with 
Captain Basil Hall,) formed an association among themselves, under the 
name of the " Lew Chew Naval Mission," for the purpose of sending Chris- 
tian missionaries to the island. The missionary whom they first sent was 
Dr. Bettelheim, a converted Jew, and by birth a Hungarian, not, however, 
in holy orders, but a Christian layman. He had become a British subject 
by naturalization, and the husband of an English woman. He possessed 
many qualifications for his work. He was a physician, a good ling-uist, with 
great energy of mind and activity of body, and most indefatigable perse- 
verance. He possessed, also, a boldness of nature, which caused him fear- 
lessly to assert his rights as a British subject, and, perhaps, not always with 
discretion. Two missionaries of the Roman church were, at first, in Lew 
Chew with him, one of whom was made titular bishop of Samos and vicar 
general of Japan ; but these, in utter despair of success, abandoned their 
mission, and left the island, while Dr. Bettelheim still abode at his post, and 
never relaxed his labors. Commodore Perry found him at Napha, as we 
have already related, and he had been there since May, 1846. The opposi- 
tion to Dr. Bettelheim's labors did not come from the common people. At 
first his communications with them were freely allowed, and they seemed 
well disposed to be taught. But the authorities soon took the alarm, and, 
as there is reason to think, on political grounds merely. They were afraid 
of their Japanese masters, who, as they well knew, would tolerate no show 
of Christianity in the kingdom, and would look upon its introduction into 
Lew Chew as the first step toward breaking down the exclusive system of 
Japan. At first, therefore, the authorities at Napha used mild persuasion 
with Dr. Bettelheim to prevail upon him to leave the island ; then followed 



CUSTOMS OF LEW CHEW. 259 

less equivocal marks of opposition — the people were forbidden to go near 
him or to remain with him if he came among them ; and, finally, a system 
of insult, annoyance, ceaseless espionage, and intimidation, was adopted, in 
the hope of driving him away. But all these means were in vain. The 
missionary stayed in Lew Chew, and at the time of the Commodore's arri- 
val, he and the inhabitants were living in a condition of undisguised hostil- 
ity toward each other. It was soon but too apparent that the presence of 
the missionary, however meritorious he might be, seemed to promise but lit- 
tle for the extension of Christianity in the island at that period. 

A renewed opportunity of observation on this second visit enabled the 
gentlemen of the expedition to catch some additional features of social life, 
as well as to obtain further insight into manners and customs. There is a 
gradation in the rank of officers analogous to that existing in China, and 
here, as there, manifested by some peculiarity of dress. The great distinc- 
tive mark, however, between the higher classes and the general population 
consists in the hair-pin. The crown of the head, to the extent of two or 
three inches, is shaved, and into the vacant space the residue of the hair is 
all drawn, and plaited somewhat into the form of a circular comb. A free 
use is made of oil and lamp-black in arranging it. Two large hair-pins are 
then passed through the mass, to keep it in place, and the front end of the 
lower pin is finished with a head in the form of a star. The different met- 
als of which the pins are made indicate the rank of the wearer. They are 
of gold, silver, brass, lead, and pewter. The lower class generally wear 
brass, though the very poorest use sometimes the metals last named. The 
literati or dignitaries use gold and silver. The pin, therefore, tells the rank 
at once. The lowest order of the people consists of the public slaves, (oo- 
hang,) who have no civil rights nor personal freedom, and must obey the 
slightest beck of the literati. Their condition is one of utter degradation. 
The intermediate class next above these is composed of the peasants or field 
laborers, (Ha-koo-shoo.) These farm the country, paying to the government 
one-half of the products in lieu of taxes, and paying also an exorbitant rent. 
We have already stated that two-tenths is all the laborer gets of the results 
of his toil. By this toil the literary class, which never works at all, is sup- 
ported. The highest grade in the lower class is made up of the messengers, 
spies, menial officers, &o., in the service of government, and includes also 
the small traders and mechanics. This caste is known by the name of We 
dae-o-gang. When doing duty for the government these receive no wages, 
nothing but their food, and the distant hope of promotion to the honor of 
substituting for the brass pin one of silver. The rich sometimes purchase 
from a poor man his services for life, (a system of slavery,) but more gen- 
erally for a term of years. The price of a common slave of this kind is 
from two to ten dollars. 

G-reat respect is shown for the dead, and tombs elaborate and costly at- 



260 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

test this feeling. They are constructed of stone, and often form a conspic- 
uous feature in the landscape. Indeed, upon the first approach of the squad- 
ron, their size, color, and position on the hill-sides caused them, at a dis- 
tance, to be mistaken for dwellings. 

A sort of clanship seems to obtain in each district, and the people of one 
village seldom marry with the inhabitants of another. The agriculturists, 
and indeed the common people generally, appear to know but few physical 
wants. They have sweet potatoes in abundance, and these, with a misera- 
ble hut to sleep in, seem to bound their very limited desires. Many of the 
poor are fishermen, but the larger number is composed of mechanics, em- 
ployed chiefly in turning wooden implements and covering them with lac- 
quer. The women commonly perform this latter branch, except as to the 
painting ; this is done by men. The shops are few, and the articles sold are 
chiefly paper, rice, tea, sweetmeats, and clothing. The Lew Chewans al- 
ways insisted that they had no current coin, and that their trade was always 
in a barter of specific objects. This may be in the main correct, as they 
appear to have but little metallic currency, and the Commodore endeavored 
in vain to procure from the authorities some of their coin in exchange for 
ours. They solemnly assured him they had no national currency ; and, 
though they are very much in the habit, from motives of supposed policy, 
of exaggerating their poverty, this statement is probably true. They know, 
however, very well the value of the Chinese coin, and received it from our 
pursers in the settlement of accounts. 

The vegetable and animal productions of Lew Chew are abundant 
enough. The sugar-cane thrives, and they have a rude mode of making 
sugar. 

They export of this, as well as of saki, an intoxicating liquor distilled 
from rice, and very strong ; they make also tobacco in considerable quanti- 
ties, and smoking is a universal habit. Some cotton is also grown, and in- 
digo is raised in the island. They also make salt by evaporation ; and, 
were the island in other hands, its agricultural productions would support a 
large population, and furnish a surplus for exportation. Fowls, ducks, 
geese, pigs, goats, and a small species of black ox, are all very abundant. 
There is a small but active and tough breed of horses, and the wild boar is 
found in the forests. The general impression left on the minds of the gen- 
tlemen of the expedition was, that Lew Chew was a beautiful island, abun- 
dantly supplied, and needed but a good government to form, so far as bodily 
somfort is concerned, as pleasant a residence as could be desired. 



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MAP 

ofihe 

JAPAN ISIiAJYDS 

ccjpied. IVom von Slel)dlds -with sliglit addilious & correctious , 

Lj tin? TJ. S . Ja^i an Expedition and otiier authorities . 

Compiled. ty Order of 

COMMODORE M. C. PERRY, U. S.X 
Lieat? W. L. Maury and Silas Beiil . 



1855. 



CHAPTER XII. 



Departure from Napha for Japan.— Course of the Ships.— Oho-sima.— Island seen by Commander Gljmn, 
probably Oho-sima.— Cleopatra Islands. — Currents.— Fourth of July on Board.— Approach to Cape 
Idzu — Squadron, led by the Susquehanna, enters the Bay of Yedo.— Rock Island.— Hazy Atmosphere 
of Japan.— Surprise of the Japanese at sight of the Steamers moving against Wind and Tide.— Bay of 
Sagami.— Appearance of the Coast and Country Inland.— Fusi-Jama. —Ships made ready for Action.— 
Fleet of Japanese Boats put off from the Shore. — Left behind by Squadron. — Bay of Uraga. — Opposite 
Coast of Awa. — Japanese Forts. — Squadron comes to Anchor in the Bay of Uraga. — Soundings on ap- 
proaching the Anchorage.— Japanese Guard-Boats put off.— No one permitted to come on board the 
Ships.— Appearance of Guard-Boats and Crews.— Skill of the Japanese in managing their Boats.— 
Guard -Boat comes alongside of the Mississippi, and Japanese Functionary demands to come on board. 
—Not permitted.— Notice in the French Language, ordering the Ships away, held up to be read. — 
Interpreter directed to inform the Japanese that the Commodore would confer with no one but the 
highest Official in Uraga. — Japanese replied that they had the Vice Governor on board. — This Officer 
and his Interpreter allowed to come on board the Susquehanna. — Not permitted to see the Commo- 
dore.- Conference with Lieutenant Contee, who explains that the Americans have come on a friendly 
Mission, and that the Commodore bears a Letter from the President of the United States to the Em- 
peror.— Desires the appointment of an Officer of suitable rank to receive it from the Commodore. — 
Commodore refuses to go to Nagasaki— Informs the Japanese Officials that if the Guard-Boats are not 
immediately removed he will disperse them by Force. — The Boats are withdrawn. — Vice Governor 
returns to the shore, promising further communication on the morrow. — Policy resolved on by the 
Commodore.— Meteorological Phenomenon.— Visit on the next day from the Governor of Uraga.— 
Conference between him and Commanders Buchanan and Adams.- Second refusal of the Commodore 
to go to Nagasaki. — Determination expressed to deliver the Letter there, and, if necessary, in the City 
of Yedo itself. — Governor proposes to refer the matter to Yedo. — Commodore assents, and allows 
three days for an answer. — Survey by the Squadron's Boats of the Bay of Uraga, and ultimately of 
the Bay of Yedo. 



ARLT on the morn- 
ing of tlie 2d of July, 
1853, after many un- 
foreseen delays, the 
Commodore departed 
from Napha with four 
vessels only, the two 
steamers, the Susque- 
hanna, his flag-ship, 
and the Mississippi, 
the Saratoga, and the 
Plymouth sloops-of- 
war. The Supply was 
left behind, and the 
This was but a poor show of ships, in corn- 




Caprice dispatched to Shanghai. 



262 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

pirison with the more imposing squadron of twelve vessels which had been 
so repeatedly promised. But as none of these additional vessels had ar- 
rived, and as no calculation could be made as to when they might be looked 
for, the Commodore resolved to sail with the inferior force, which he trusted 
would so far answer his necessities as not to interfere seriously with the 
great object of the expedition, now fairly set out for Japan. The advan- 
tages of steam were fully appreciated in the opportunity it gave of making 
a uniformly steady and direct course of ascertained speed — advantages in 
which the sailing vessels were made to participate ; for the Saratoga was 
taken in tow by the Susquehanna, as the Plymouth was by the Mississippi. 
The Commodore's ship led the van out of Napha and awaited, some five 
miles away, between the group of islands situated off the harbor and the 
southwestern extremity of the island, the coming up of her consort, as did 
the Mississippi for hers. Hawsers then having been passed from the steam- 
ers to the two sloops-of-war, they were respectively taken in tow, and the 
squadron fairly started and began the voyage to Yedo. 

All seemed very well satisfied to get away from Lew Chew. The pic- 
turesque interests of the island were, for the time being, thoroughly ex- 
hausted, and the dull realities of life began to weigh rather heavily upon the 
visitors. Beside, the great object of the expedition was still before them, 
and anticipation naturally begat impatience. The weather, too, had become 
sultry and excessively oppressive, for the heat had reached the high degree 
of 88° Fahrenheit in the coolest part of the Susquehanna while she lay at 
anchor in the harbor. The people of Lew Chew, moreover, had not appa- 
rently been very much won over by the blandishments of their courteous 
visitors. The supplies with which they at first furnished the squadron had 
been gradually falling off, and their consent to receive payment for them 
seemed to be the principal change in their policy effected by the long so- 
journ of six weeks. Still some progress had been made. Their system of 
espionage had become less public and intrusive, although some suspected 
that it was as alert as ever though more concealed. 

On getting clear of the harbor and stretching beyond the shelter of the 
southeastern extremity of the island, a strong wind was encountered from 
the east, and as the steamers were deep, it was thought advisable to stand 
off on the port tack in order to get well clear of the land, for the vessels in 
tow were dragging them to leeward notwithstanding the power of the en- 
gines. In the course of the day, as there was every prospect of weathering 
the eastern part of the island, the ships were put on the other tack, and 
their course directed for Japan. 

The track taken by the squadron east of the chain of islands which 
stretch from Formosa to Lew Chew, and thence to Japan, (very properly 
called by Blunt the " Southern," " Middle," and " Northern " groups,) has 
been very rarely traversed by the ships of modern nations ; while the isl- 



ISLAND OF OHO-SIMA. 263 

ands on the eastern side of the chain are unknown to our present naviga- 
tors. 

The French admiral, Cecille, in 1846, employed one or more of his 
squadron in the exploration of the islands about Lew Chew, and along the 
western side of the northern group ; but according to the best authorities, 
to which Yon Siebold, among others, adds his testimony, the eastern side of 
the latter islands has never been visited by any modern navigator. The 
principal island of the northern group is called by the Japanese Oho-sima, 
and by the Chinese Tatao ; these words meaning in their respective lan- 
guages, " great island." It is about the size, including one or two adjoining 
islands in the estimate, of Great Lew Chew, and is probably governed by 
similar laws. It has one chief city and several towns, and the country is 
supposed to be highly cultivated. Von Siebold states that the island con- 
tains several good harbors, and it is undoubtedly, in every respect, of suffi- 
cient interest to claim an investigation. The Commodore resolved, at some 
subsequent period, to send some vessel of the squadron to make a proper 
survey. 

The Susquehanna and the accompanying ships were- probably the first 
either of European or American vessels that ever passed along the entire 
extent of the northern group. Yon Siebold asserts that Broughton saw the 
northeast point, and that Captain Gruerin, of the French corvette Sabine, 
traced the western shore in 1848. It was probably Oho-sima, the principal 
island of the group, that was seen by Commander Glynn in 1848, and which 
he supposed to be a new discovery. The islets which he speaks of having 
seen, bearing N. N. W., were the Cleopatra islands, examined two years be- 
fore by one of the vessels of Admiral Cecille's squadron. 

Yon Siebold's charts, appended to his great work on Japan, and com- 
piled by him, show these islands pretty accurately laid down, and it was 
found that the observations made on board the Susquehanna gave such bear- 
ings of the principal headlands of Oho-sima as correspond tolerably well 
with the position as given by Yon Siebold. A current is said to be contin- 
ually setting from these islands to the northward and eastward ; or, as the 
islanders say, it always goes to Japan and never comes back. This was, 
however, found to be of no great strength during the passage of the Sus- 
quehanna, although it must be acknowledged to be a matter of difficulty to 
estimate in a steamer the rapidity and direction of currents, as they are 
generally over-logged, or in other words, surpassed in speed by the rate of 
going of the vessel. There is, moreover, another difficulty in consequence 
of the backward movement given to the water by the evolution of the pad- 
dle-wheels of a steamship. 

The third day of the voyage, being the fourth day of July, 1853, 
brought with it a lively remembrance of home, as it was the seventy-seventh 
anniversary of our national holiday. The day opened fresh and pleasant, 



264 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

and the men were prepared to get up some amateur theatricals, and other- 
wise to celebrate the occasion ; but the weather becoming unfavorable, and 
other circumstances interfering, it was deemed advisable, much to the disap- 
pointment of the sailors, to dispense with the show by which they had in- 
tended to give exhibition to their patriotism. The occasion, however, was 
duly honored by the firing of a salute of seventeen guns from each vessel of 
the squadron, and by the serving of an additional ration of grog to Jack, 
while the officers brought to bear also the resources of their various messes, 
to give due enjoyment and impressiveness to the day. All on board were 
allowed to feel that it was a holiday, in a respite from the usual muster at 
general quarters and exercises at the great guns and small arms, which had 
been kept up during the passage with great strictness and regularity, in order 
that the squadron might be prepared for any event on its arrival at Japan. 

The weather, although generally warm, varied, and thus, while some 
days were excessively hot and oppressive, others were tolerably cool and 
pleasant. The winds occasionally blew with considerable freshness, and 
mostly from the east, but frequently there was hardly a breath of air to be 
felt, and, consequently, with a temperature which reached 88° in the coolest 
place on deck, all on board suffered greatly from the intense heat. And, 
indeed, the still heat and clear atmosphere which were experienced, even on 
a close approach to the shores of Japan, did not seem to confirm what has 
been said, and what was expected, of the cool and foggy climate of that 
country. 

At sunset on Thursday, the 7th of July, the squadron was, according to 
observation, about forty miles from Cape Negatsuo, or Idzu, as it is other- 
wise called. In consequence of this proximity, the heads of the ships were 
put off shore from midnight until four o'clock next morning, when, not only 
the cape was seen from the masthead, but several of the islands to the east- 
^^ ward, called by Yon Siebold Goebroken Eilander, (the Broken islands,) as 
well as the larger two of the group, bearing the Japanese names of Tosi- 
sima and Likine-sima. The morning was fine, though the atmosphere was 
so hazy that there was but an indistinct view of the outline of the precip- 
itous coast. Through the mist, however, the bold promontory of Idzu could 
be seen rising loftily out of the sea, and stretching back to the interior of 
Nippon in a crowd of mountainous elevations. The Susquehanna's course, 
as the leading ship, was laid directly for the entrance to the bay of Yedo, 
and as she passed the precipitous land of Cape Idzu she came up with a 
low, barren, and apparently uninhabited islet of about three-fourths of a 
mile in length, known as Rock island. There is a passage between this and 
the promontory which bounds the main land, and, although broken with sev- 
eral rocky islets, it is navigable. The United States ship-of-the-line Colum- 
bus took that course, although the other, on the outer side of Rock island, 
the one pursued by the Morrison, was preferred, and was accordingly taken 



^ 



ENTRANCE OF THE BAY OF TEDO. 265 

by the Commodore, who passed within a mile and a half of the island. As 
the squadron sailed up the coast some eight or ten junks hove in sight, and 
two or three of them were observed soon to change their course and to 
turn back toward the shore, as if to announce the arrival of strangers. 

The morning seemed to confirm the reputed character of the Japanese 
climate, for the atmosphere was so thick and hazy that the extent of view 
was unfortunately very much restricted, and it was not possible to get a dis- 
tinct outline of the shore until the squadron came to anchor off the city of 
Uraga. The steamer, in spite of a wind, moved on with all sails furled, at 
the rate of eight or nine knots, much to the astonishment of the crews of 
the Japanese fishing junks gathered along the shore or scattered over the 
surface of the mouth of the bay, who stood up in their boats, and were evi- 
dently expressing the liveliest surprise at the sight of the first steamer ever 
beheld in Japanese waters. 

As the day advanced the sun came out with a brighter lustre, glistening 
upon the broad sails of the junks within view, and dispelling the mist, 
through the openings of which the lofty summits and steep lava-scarred sides 
of the promontory of Idzu and its mountain chains, now left rapidly be- 
hind, could occasionally be discovered. Crossing the mouth of the bay of 
Sagami, with Yries' island, or Oo-sima, as it is called, on the starboard, the 
ships moved in toward Cape Sagami. The Great Fusi, now, as the fog oc- 
casionally lifted, rose to view behind the head of the bay of Sagami, and its 
cone-like summit was disclosed, rising to an enormous height, far inland, and 
covered with a white cap, but whether of snow or of fleecy clouds it was 
impossible to distinguish. The boats showed themselves more cautiously as 
the vessels entered the bay ; but one was overtaken by the steamers, and 
those on board seemed in a terrible state of excitement, letting drop its 
broad sails, and taking to their oars, which they used with all their might, 
as they were evidently anxious to give a wide berth to the squadron. 

As the ships neared the bay, signals were made from the Commodore, 
and instantly the decks were cleared for action, the guns placed in position 
and shotted, the ammunition arranged, the small arms made ready, sentinels 
and men at their posts, and, in short, all the preparations made, usual be- 
fore meeting an enemy. About noon Cape Sagami was reached, when the 
squadron came to, for about ten minutes, and a signal was made for all cap- 
tains to go on board the flag-ship and receive their orders from the Commo- 
dore. This done, the vessels now continued their course, and soon came up 
with the peninsula of Sagami, at the south end of which a town was ob- 
served. When the squadron had approached within two miles of the land 
a fleet of large boats, amounting to more than a dozen, pushed off in the di- 
rection of the ships, with the seeming intention of visiting them. They 
were, however, not waited for, and were soon left behind, much puzzled, 
doubtless, by the rapid progress of the steamers against the wind. The 



266 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

boats appeared to be fully manned, but did not seem to be armed, although 
each of them bore a large banner with certain characters inscribed on it, 
which led to the conjecture that they were government vessels of some kind. 
The coasting vessels increased in numbers within the bay, and were some- 
times so near that their construction and rig could be plainly made out. 
Their hulls rose forward in a high beaked prow, and, aft, in a lofty poop, 
while a single mast, secured by fore and back stays, rose from the centre of 
the vessel and was rigged with a large square sail made of canvas ; there 
were three other smaller sails, two at the bow and one at the stern. 

On passing Cape Sagami, at the entrance of the bay, the shores were 
observed to rise in precipitous cliffs, which connected landward with undula- 
ting hills. Deep ravines, green with rich verdure, divided the steep slopes 
and opened into small expanses of alluvial land, washed by the waters of the 
bay into the form of inlets, about the borders of which were grouped va- 
rious Japanese villages. The uplands were beautifully varied with cultivated 
fields and tufted woods, while far behind rose the mountains, height upon 
height, in the inland distance. The entrance to the bay seemed well forti- 
fied, and the hills and projecting headlands of Sagami were formidable with 
forts, the guns of which, however, were silent, notwithstanding the threat- 
ening entrance of the strange ships. The distant shores of the province of 
Awa, on the east, rising opposite to Sagami in a lofty peak, and stretching 
beyond in picturesque summits, was still more mountainous, and bore fewer 
marks of cultivation and a less formidable appearance, being apparently 
destitute of fortifications. As the squadron passed through the straits into 
the inner bay of Uraga the numerous fishing boats hurried out of the way, 
and their crews, when they fancied themselves at a sufficiently safe distance, 
rested upon their oars and gazed with an anxious look at the strangers. 

At about five o'clock in the afternoon the squadron came to anchor off 
the city of Uraga, on the western side of the bay of Yedo, the sloops-of-war 
(the wind being favorable) having been cast loose a little while previous, 
and the four vessels took up their positions, as had been directed, opposite 
the shore. Just before letting go the anchors the weather cleared up, and 
the lofty cone of Fusi was more distinctly visible, showing high above the 
accompanying range of mountains which extend inland. It was estimated 
to be eight or ten thousand feet in height, and its position W. | N. from 
Uraga, at a distance of fifty or sixty miles. As the ships proceeded to their 
anchorage the lead was kept going every moment, and as a constant depth 
of twenty-five fathoms was found the vessels kept on their headway, round- 
ing, at moderate speed, the elevation or cliff, within which is situated the 
bight of Uraga. They continued sounding and moving on slowly and cau- 
tiously until the squadron had nearly reached within a mile and a half of 
the promontory guarding the inner entrance of the bay of Yedo, at a dis- 
tance of a mile further than any foreign vessel had ever advanced, when two 



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ARRIVAL IN THE BAT OF TEDO. 267 

guns were fired from a neighboring fort, and a ball of smoke in the air 
showed that a rocket had been discharged. The order was at once given to 
let go the anchor ; but as the depth of twenty-five fathoms was still found, 
the steamers first closed in a little more with the shore and then anchored. 

Previous to anchoring, a number of Japanese guard-boats had been ob- 
served coming oflF from the land in pursuit, but the Commodore had given 
express orders, both by word and signal, forbidding the admission of any 
one on board either of the ships but his own ; and even as to the flag-ship, 
he had commanded that not more than three persons, at one time, and those 
having business, should be allowed to come on board. It had heretofore 
been the practice of ships-of-war to admit these people indiscriminately to 
their decks. When the Columbus was in the bay of Ycdo, there were many 
hundred Japanese on board of her at one time, who partook of the hospi- 
talities of the officers without hesitation, and made themselves quite at 
home ; but when they were spoken to about going on shore, answered by 
signs that it was impossible. The Commodore had, therefore, pre-deter- 
mined to exercise an equal degree of exclusiveness with themselves, and to 
permit the Japanese functionaries to communicate only and directly with 
the Susquehanna. Several of the commanders in the Japanese boats signi- 
fied by signs some dissatisfaction at not being permitted to come on board 
the ships ; but the Commodore's orders were strictly obeyed. 

On dropping the anchor, another gun was heard from one of the forts 
on shore, and when the squadron had assumed its line of anchorage, com- 
manding with its guns the entire ranges of batteries and two considerable 
towns, a large number of the guard-boats came from all directions, evidently 
prepared to take their stations around the ships, as the Japanese crews had 
a supply of provisions, water, clothing, sleeping mats, and other requisites 
for a long stay. The Commodore, however, had fully determined before- 
hand that they should not thus surround the ships. They made several at- 
tempts to get alongside and on board of the Saratoga ; their tow-lines, with 
which they made fast to any part of the ship, were unceremoniously cast ofi". 
They attempted to climb up by the chains, but the crew was ordered to 
prevent them, and the sight of pikes, cutlasses, and pistols, checked them, 
and when they found that our officers and men were very much in earnest, 
they desisted from their attempts to board. 

These guard-boats struck every one with admiration of the beauty of 
their models, which, bj' the way, resembled in a remarkable degree that of 
the yacht America. They were constructed of unpainted wood, with very 
sharp bows, a broad beam, a slightly tapering stern, and a clean run. They 
were propelled with great swiftness through, or rather over, the water, for 
they seemed to skim upon its surface rather than to divide it. The crews, 
numbering in some of the larger boats thirty or more, were tall and muscu- 
lar men, whose tawny frames were naked, with the exception of a cloth 



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268 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

about their waists. Toward night, however, the men clothed themselves 
with loose gowns, some of red and others of blue, with hanging sleeves, 
upon which were white stripes meeting in an angle at the shoulders. On 
their backs were emblazoned coats of arms, or some insignia, in black and 
other colors. Most of them were bareheaded and showed the hair to have 
been shaved on the crown, while that on the sides had been allowed to grow 
long and was worn plastered with some species of ointment and fastened up 
into a knot on the bald spot upon the top of the head. A few, however, 
wore caps of bamboo, in shape like a shallow basin inverted, and reminding 
one of Mambrino's helmet. In some of the boats the men bore tall poles, 
surmounted by a cruciform ornament, which seemed to indicate some mili- 
tary office. The men in authority, wore light lacquered hats, with a coat 
of arms in front, probably signifying their official rank and position. The 
rowers stood to their oars, which worked on pivots upon the sides of the 
boat near the stern, and they handled them with such skill and effect that 
they approached the ships very rapidly, shouting loudly as they came. At 
the stern of each boat was a small flag, with three horizontal stripes in it, a 
white one on either side, and a black one in the middle, while in many of 
the boats there was, beside, an additional flag, with symbols upon it. One 
or two persons, armed each with two swords at their sides, stood in the 
boats, and were evidently men of rank and authority. 

One of the boats came alongside of the flag-ship, and it was observed 
that a person on board had a scroll of paper in his hand, which the officer 
of the Susquehanna refused to receive, but which was held up to be read 
alongside of the Mississippi, when it was found to be a document in the 
French language, which conveyed an order to the efi'ect that the ships should 
go away, and not anchor at their peril. The chief functionary, as his boat 
reached the side of the Susquehanna, made signs for the gangway ladder to 
be let down. This was refused, but Mr. Williams, the Chinese interpreter, 
and Mr. Portman, the Dutch, were directed to state to him that the Com- 
modore would not receive any one but a functionary of the highest rank, 
and that he might return on shore. As there seemed to be some difficulty 
in making progress in the Japanese language, one on board the boat along- 
side said, in very good English, " I can speak Dutch." Mr. Portman then 
commenced a conversation with him in that language, as his English seemed 
to have been exhausted in the first sentence. He appeared to be perfectly 
familiar with the Dutch, however, and commenced a very brisk volley of 
questions, many of which were not responded to. He asked if the ships 
came from America, and seemed to have expected them. He was very per- 
tinacious in urging to be allowed to come on board, but was constantly re- 
fused permission, and was told that the commander of the squadron was of 
the highest rank, in the service to which he belonged, in the United States, 
and could confer only with the highest in rank at Uraga. He then stated that 



INTERVIEW WITH JAPANESE OFFICIALS. 269 

the vice-governor of Uraga was in the boat, and pointed to one of those in 
authority at his side, who, he said, held the highest position in the city, and 
was the proper person to be received. He was now asked why the gover- 
nor himself did not come off, to which he replied that he was prevented by 
the laws from going on board ships in the roads ; and proposed that the 
Commodore should appoint an officer of corresponding rank with the vice- 
governor to confer with him, as he was desirous of communicating to the 
government the object of the squadron's visit. The Commodore, after some 
intentional delay, consented to this request, and appointed his aid, Lieuten- 
ant Contee, to receive him. The gangway-ladder was accordingly lowered, 
and the vice-governor, Nagazima Sahoroske, accompanied by his interpre- 
ter, Hori Tatsnoske, who spoke Dutch, came on board, and was received 
in the captain's cabin, where a conference was held, in fact, with the Com- 
modore, who, however, studiously kept himself secluded in his own cabin, 
and communicated with the Japanese through his aid only. 

It was directed that the dignitary should be informed that the Commo- 
dore, who had been sent by his country on a friendly mission to Japan, had 
brought a letter from the President of the United States, addressed to the 
Emperor, and that he wished a suitable officer might be sent on board his 
ship to receive a copy of the same, in order that a day might be appointed 
for the Commodore formally to deliver the original. To this he replied 
that Nagasaki was the only place, according to the laws of Japan, for nego- 
tiating foreign business, and it would be necessary for the squadron to go 
there. In answer to this he was told that the Commodore had come pur- 
posely to Uraga because it was near to Yedo, and that he should not go to 
Nagasaki ; that he expected the letter to be duly and properly received 
where he then was ; that his intentions were perfectly friendly, but that he 
would allow of no indignity ; and would not permit the guard-boats which 
were collecting around the ships to remain where they were, and if they 
were not immediately removed, the Commodore declared that he would dis- 
perse them by force. When this was interpreted to him, the functionary 
suddenly left his seat, went to the gangway, and gave an order which caused 
most of the boats to return to the shore ; but a few of them still remaining 
in clusters, an armed boat was sent from the ship to warn them away by 
gestures, and at the same time to show their arms ; this had the desired ef- 
fect, as all of them disappeared, and nothing more was seen of them near 
the ships during the stay of the squadron. This, as says the Commodore, 
was the first important point gained. The vice-governor shortly afterward 
took his leave, saying, as he departed, that he had no authority to promise 
any thing respecting the reception of the President's letter, but in the 
morning an officer of higher rank would come from the city, who might 
probably furnish some further information. 

The policy of the Commodore, it will be seen, was to assume a resolute 






270 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

attitude toward the Japanese government. He had determined, before 
reaching the coast, to carry out strictly this course in all his official relations, 
as he believed it the best to ensure a successful issue to the delicate mission 
with which he had been charged. He was resolved to adopt a course en- 
tirely contrary to that of all others who had hitherto visited Japan on a 
similar errand — to demand as a right, and not to solicit as a favor, those 
acts of courtesy which are due from one civilized nation to another ; to al- 
low of none of those petty annoyances which had been unsparingly visited 
upon those who had preceded him, and to disregard the acts as well as the 
threats of the authorities, if they in the least conflicted with his own sense 
of what was due to the dignity of the American flag. 

The question of landing by force was left to be decided by the develop- 
ment of succeeding events ; it was, of course, the very last measure to be 
resorted to, and the last that was desired ; but in order to be prepared for 
the worst, the Commodore caused the ships constantly to be kept in perfect 
readiness, and the crews to be drilled as thoroughly as they are in time of 
active war. He was prepared, also, to meet the Japanese on their own 
ground, and exhibit toward them a little of their own exclusive policy ; if 
they stood on their dignity and assumed superiority, that was a game at 
which he could play as well as they. It was well to let them know that 
other people had dignity also, which they knew how to protect, and that 
they did not acknowledge the Japanese to be their superiors. Hence he 
forbade the admission of a single Japanese on board any of the ships, ex- 
cept those officers who might have business with him ; and the visits even 
of such were to be confined to the flag-ship, to which they were admitted 
only on the declaration of their rank and business. The Commodore, also, 
was well aware that the more exclusive he should make himself and the 
more unyielding he might be in adhering to his declared intentions, the more 
respect these people of forms and ceremonies would be disposed to award 
him ; therefore it was that he deliberately resolved to confer personally with 
no one but a functionary of the highest rank in the empire. He would 
have been ashamed, in the indulgence of a contemptible pride founded on 
mere official rank, to assume a superiority, and afi'ect a dignity, too lofty to 
stoop to the level of men below him in station. As a man, he did not deem 
himself too elevated to hold communication with any of his brethren in the 
common heritage of humanity ; but in Japan, as the representative of his 
country, and the accredited guardian of the honor of that flag which floated 
over him, he felt that it was well to teach the Japanese, in the mode most 
intelligible to them, by stately and dignified reserve, joined to perfect equity 
in all he asked or did, to respect the country from which he came, and to 
suspend for a time their accustomed arrogance and incivility toward stran- 
gers. The Japanese so well understood him that they learned the lesson 
at once. It was this feeling, and this only, which prompted him to refuse 



FIRST NIGHT IN THE BAY OF YEDO. 271 

to see the vice-governor of Uraga, and to refer him to his aid for conference. 
He saw him often enough afterward, when matters had been arranged be- 
tween the governments, on terms of friendship and equality. And we have 
been thus particular, not for the information of our countrymen, who know 
Commodore Perry, but for strangers who may read our story, and, without 
this word of explanation, misapprehend the character of the man. No man 
is more easily approached by his fellow-men, or assumes less on account of 
the honorable position he fills in the service of his country. 

The best proof that he judged wisely in determining on his course is in 
the results. The squadron was left free of all annoyance or interference on 
the part of the authorities during the whole period of its stay ; an event 
unprecedented in the intercourse of Japan with foreign ships for more than 
two centuries. We have said there was no annoyance to the ships, but the 
Japanese were as yet too suspicious of foreigners not to resort to their fa- 
vorite system of espionage : and, therefore, though the guard-vessels were 
withdrawn, as we have seen, there might still be observed floating here and 
there a boat in the distance, seemingly with the object of quietly watching 
the movements of the strangers ; but they never came near the squadron, 
and were not by any act of the authorities forced upon the recognition of 
them, by the Americans, as guard-boats. That a watchful eye was kept 
upon the squadron was probable. Three or four rockets were shot up from 
the opposite land during the afternoon, which were supposed to be signals 
for some purpose or other. When night came on, the presence of the ships 
in their waters was evidently keeping up a very lively apprehension on the 
part of the Japanese on shore. Beacon fires were lighted upon every hill- 
top, and along the shores on either side as far as the eye could reach, and 
during the whole night the watchers on deck could hear the tolling of a 
great bell which was at first supposed to be that of a temple, but was prob- 
ably an alarum or signal of some kind. The bay was otherwise as quiet as 
an inland lake, and nothing occurred to disturb the tranquillity of the night 
When, however, the nine o'clock gun of the flag-ship, a sixty-four pounder, 
was fired, the report reverberated loudly through the hills on the western 
side of the bay, and apparently created something of a commotion on shore, 
for here and there the fires were observed to be immediately extinguished. 
There seemed, however, no reason to expect any interference, although every 
precaution had been taken ; the ships had quite a warlike aspect, with sen- 
tinels stationed fore and aft and upon the gangways at the sides, with a pile 
of round shot and four stands of grape at each gun, muskets stacked on the 
quarter-deck, and boats provided with carbines, pistols, cutlasses, and other 
necessaries for service. 

An interesting meteorological phenomenon was observed in the course of 
the night by Lieutenant Duer, in command of the watch, who describes it 
as a remarkable meteor seen from midnight until four o'clock in the morn 



272 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

ing. It made its appearance in the southward and westward and illuminated 
the whole atmosphere. The spars, sails, and hulls of the ships reflected its 
glare as distinctly as though a blue light were burning from each vessel at 
the same time. From the southward and westward, and about fifteen de- 
grees above the horizon, it pursued a northeastwardly course in a direct line 
for a long distance, when it fell gradually toward the sea and disappeared. 
Its form was that of a large blue sphere with a red, wedge-shaped tail, 
which it could easily be observed was formed of ignited particles which re- 
sembled the sparks of a rocket as they appear upon its explosion. " The 
ancients," remarks the Commodore, " would have construed this remarkable 
appearance of the heavens as a favorable omen for any enterprise they had 
undertaken," and adds " it may be so construed by us, as we pray God that 
our present attempt to bring a singular and isolated people into the family 
of civilized nations may succeed without resort to bloodshed." 

As the sun rose next morning, gradually lifting the mist which had been 
spread during the night upon the surface of the bay, and still curtained, here 
and there, the land with its fleecy festoons, a beautiful view was disclosed. 
A bold shore, occasionally broken by steep escarpments of bare gray rock, 
extended along the western or Sagami side of the bay, with an undulating 
surface brightly green with verdure, tufts of undergrowth, and scattered 
groups of trees. Further inland the earth rose in a range of gently swelling 
hills, the sides of which were covered with vegetation. Two miles below 
the anchorage, the shore was less abrupt, and seemed more cultivated. 
From Uraga to the entrance of the inner bay of Yedo, marked by a prom- 
ontory a mile and a half distant, innumerable towns and villages were 
grouped along the shores on either side. Uraga embraces two of these 
towns, separated from each other by a cliff ; through the larger one of which 
a river passes and empties into the harbor, where floated a great number of 
small boats and several junks. As most of the vessels bound up the bay 
were seen to stop in their course at Uraga, that place was supposed to be an 
entrepot where certain custom dues had to be paid. Forts could be seen on 
the headlands here and there commanding the harbor, and as they were ex- 
amined through the glass, some of them were found to be in an unfinished 
state, and in progress of construction or alteration. Some were mounted 
with cannon, though apparently of no great calibre, while others were with- 
out a gun. A length of screens had been stretched for a distance of several 
rods upon posts in front of the breastworks, as well as inside the forts 
behind the embrasures, and along parts of the shore. In the distance these 
ecreens seemed to be composed of cloth, and were marked with white and 
black stripes. Their purpose was not very obvious, although it was sur- 
mised that they were got up with the intention of making a false show of 
concealed force. The Japanese probably had not calculated upon the exact- 
ness of view afforded by a DoUand's telescope or a French opera glass. 



SECOND VISIT OF JAPANESE OFFICIALS. 273 

Companies of soldiers, in glaring scarlet uniforms, were seen to pass from 
garrison to garrison, some bearing flags with various insignia, and others 
large lanterns upon tall poles. The shore was lined with a formidable show 
of the same sort of government boats as had surrounded the ships on their 
arrival. They seemed to be picketed off from the town by two red flags 
which had been planted on the shore between them and the houses on the 
land. 

The first approach to the Susquehanna from the shore was that of a boat 
at early sunrise next morning (July 9th), apparently containing a corps of 
artists, who came close to the ship's side, but making no attempt to come 
on board, busied themselves in taking sketches of the strange vessels. The 
important visit of the day, however, came off at seven o'clock, when two 
large boats rowed alongside, one of which contained a half dozen officials, 
whose presence was indicated by the three-striped flag at the stern. The 
interpreter who spoke Dutch was with them, and announced that the person- 
age of highest authority in the city was present, and desired to come on 
board. The arrival of Keyamon Yezaimen (for such was his name), who 
presented himself as the governor and greatest functionary of Uraga, thus 
plainly contradicting the declaration of the vice-governor of the day before, 
was then duly announced to the Commodore, who ordered that his highness 
should be received by Commanders Buchanan and Adams and Lieutenant 
Contee, the Commodore himself still refusing, in accordance with his policy, 
to receive any one but a counsellor of the Empire. The governor was 
attired, in character with his high position, as a noble of the third rank. He 
wore a rich silk robe of an embroidered pattern resembling the feathers of a 
peacock, with borders of gold and silver. He was duly received by the officers 
we have named, and immediately commenced with them a conference, which, 
however, was in reality with the Commodore, though he still preserved his 
seclusion. The governor, after a long discussion, in which he more than 
once declared that the Japanese laws made it impossible that the President's 
letter should be received at Uraga, and that, even if it were, the answer 
would be sent to Nagasaki, added also that the squadron must proceed 
thither. In answer to this he was most distinctly told that the Commodore 
would never consent to such an arrangement, and would persist in delivering 
the letter where he was ; and, moreover, that if the Japanese government 
did not see fit to appoint a suitable person to receive the documents in his 
possession addressed to the Emperor that he, the Commodore, whose duty it 
was to deliver them, would go on shore with a sufficient force and deliver 
them in person, be the consequences what they might. 

In answer to this, the governor said that he would return to the city 

and send a communication to Yedo, asking for further instructions, and he 

added that it would take four days to obtain a reply. One hour's steaming 

would have taken the ships in sight of Yedo, and so the governor was 

18 



274 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

informed tliat the Commodore would wait ihree days only (until Tuesday, 
the 12th), when a definite answer would be expected. 

A boat had been sent at daylight from each ship of the squadron to sur- 
vey the bay and harbor of Uraga. The governor, on observing these boats, 
inquired what they were doing, and when he was told that they were survey- 
ing the harbor, he said that it was against the Japanese laws to allow of 
such examinations ; to which he received for reply, that the American laws 
command them, and that Americans were as much bound to obey the Amer- 
ican as he was the Japanese laws. " This," remarks the Commodore, " was 
a second and most important point gained." During all the questions and 
answers the interpreter had out his tablets, and was busy taking notes, and 
if all the importunate inquiries of the governor had been responded to, his 
reporter would have enjoyed no sinecure. 

At the interview, the original letter of the President, together with the 
Commodore's letter of credence, encased in the magnificent boxes which had 
been prepared in Washington, were shown to his excellency, who was 
evidently greatly impressed with their exquisite workmanship and costli- 
ness ; and he made an offer for the first time of water and refreshments, but 
was told that the squadron was in no need of anything. The governor was 
made to understand perfectly that there would be no necessity for any fur- 
ther discussion until the time appointed for the delivery of the answer from 
the Japanese government should arrive ; and he left the ship fully impressed 
with this understanding. 

During the conference, the governor and his interpreter were requested 
to use the same designation in speaking of the President of the United 
States as that by which they distinguished the Emperor. They complied 
with this request, although, previous to it, they had used different terms for 
the two dignitaries. In a country like Japan, so governed by ceremonials 
of all kinds, it was necessary to guard with the strictest etiquette even the 
forms of speech ; and it was found that by a diligent attention to the minu- 
test and apparently most insignificant details of word and action, the desired 
impression was made upon Japanese diplomacy; which, as a smooth sur- 
face requires one equally smooth to touch it at every point, can only be 
fully reached and met by the nicest adjustment of the most polished for- 
mality. 

The surveying boats, which seemed to give so much uneasiness to the 
governor, had been well manned and armed, and Lieutenant Bent, of the 
Mississippi, who was in command, was instructed not to go beyond the range 
of the ship's guns, while a good look-out was kept upon the surveying party, 
in order that assistance might be sent to them should they be attacked. In 
addition to the usual boat ensigns at the stern, white flags, indicative of 
their peaceful intentions, were borne on the bows. They spread themselves 
out toward the opposite shore as they pulled away, sounding at every boat's 



SURVEY OF BAT OF TEDO. 275 

length, and bad reached about two miles further up the bay than the anchor- 
age of the squadron, when they were recalled by a signal gun. On their 
return they were sent out again, with orders to keep nearer to the western 
shore. In the afternoon all the boats returned, coming alongside at about 
three o'clock p. m. 

The hydrographic reports were of the most favorable character, as deep 
water was found as far up as four miles toward the head of the bay, which 
was the extent of the first survey. The soundings varied from twenty-nine 
to forty-three fathoms, and at the height of the ebb tide a current was observed 
running at the rate of two or three knots. The examination of the harbor 
of Uraga, which was carried to within a few feet of the shore, gave five 
fathoms at about a cable's length distance, while within that space from the 
land several reefs were found to extend out. As the boats approached the 
shores there was a good view of the fortifications, which did not seem to be 
of a very formidable character. Their construction did not exhibit much 
strength or art. Their position and armament were such as to expose them 
to an easy assault; their parapets were in earthwork, while many of the 
buildings, the barracks and magazines, appeared to be of wood. They 
mounted but few guns, and those of small calibre, while their embrasures 
were so wide that the cannon were greatly exposed. 

On the first approach of the survey boats the soldiers showed themselves 
in considerable force, and were observed to be fully armed. They presented 
quite a bristling front with their spears and match-locks, while their lac- 
quered caps and shields flashed brightly in the sun. They did not seem 
disposed, however, to make any very decided stand, for they retreated within 
the walls of the fortification as soon as the boats made in closer with the 
land. One of the officers in command of a ship's boat approached to within 
a hundred yards of the shore, and observing three persons, seemingly of 
authority, standing out upon an embankment, levelled his glass at them, 
whereat they disappeared on the instant, evidently much discomposed at 
being sighted with an instrument which they (though not unfamiliar with 
the telescope) might have supposed to be a weapon unknown to them, and 
capable of pi ejecting something more deadly than the glance of an eye. 
The Japanese soldiers in the boats along shore beckoned to our officer to 
keep off, while he, in response, made a sign to show the direction in which 
he was going. The Japanese then put off and approached so rapidly that 
it appeared as if their intention was to intercept the ship's boat, and the officer 
in command accordingly gave orders to his men to rest upon their oars and 
adjust the caps to their carbines. There was, however, no attempt directly 
to interfere with this or any other of the ship's cutters, although they were 
followed by numbers of Japanese boats, which, however, on seeing our men 
well armed, did not venture to molest them. The artist who accompanied 
the surveying party had an excellent opportunity, which was well improved, 



276 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

of making sketches of the land, the forts, and various other objects on 
shore. 

Everything seemed propitious, as the action of the Commodore had 
so far been crowned with success. He had gained his purpose in clearing 
the squadron of the presence of the guard-boats ; he had compelled the visit 
of the first in authority at Uraga ; he had surveyed the harbor ; he had 
refused to go to Nagasaki, and kept his position in the bay of Yedo ; and 
this last he determined to retain until he had some definite answer as to the 
reception of the President's letter by a person of proper rank and author- 
ity. 

The weather added its smiles to the occasion, for nothing could be more 
propitious. The heat, which was not excessive, for the thermometer hardly 
ranged above 78°, was tempered by cool sea breezes, and the atmosphere was 
so clear that every object appeared with great distinctness, and there was a 
picturesque view disclosed to the eye on all sides. The peaked summit of 
Fusi rose, with great distinctness, above the high land on the western coast, 
and ten miles ahead the bold cliffs, which guard both sides of the entrance 
to the inner harbor leading to Yedo, were readily discernible. Nearer, the 
houses of Uraga could be so plainly seen that their peculiar forms and con- 
struction could be made out, and they were perceived to be built of wood, 
with roofs of various forms — pointed, square, and pyramidal. Most of the 
buildings were of the natural color of the wood, somewhat discolored, however, 
by time, while some few were painted white. The Japanese boats and 
junks, to the number of several hundreds, extending from the headland off 
which the Susquehanna was anchored, to the harbor, were so distinctly visi- 
ble as to be readily counted. Nearer still, the eye could minutely distin- 
guish the parts of the unfinished forts that were in the process of construction 
on the heights opposite to the ship. 

The next day was Sunday (July 10th), and, as usual, divine service 
was held on board the ships, and, in accordance with proper reverence for 
the day, no communication was held with the Japanese authorities. During 
the day, however, a boat came off with a striped flag, which indicated the 
high rank of the three or four Japanese sitting beneath its awning and 
languidly using their fans. They were evidently persons of distinction, and 
had the same intelligent expression and the remarkably courtly manners 
which were uniformly observed in all those of the better class. On coming 
alongside they, through their interpreter whom they had brought, requested 
permission to come on board. They were asked if they had any business 
with the Commodore, and answering that they had none, but merely wished 
to have a talk, were politely informed that, by his orders, they could not be 
received. Through the day, preparations were observed to be still proceed- 
ing on the land ; the soldiers moved busily, with their glistening shields and 
long spears, about the batteries in sight, and some seemed to be engaged in 



FURTHERSURVEY OF THE BAY OF YEDO. 277 

removing the sham forts of striped canvas, and in training more guns upon 
the squadron. The reverberations of the report of a cannon, fired off 
apparently some distance up the bay, echoed through the hills, and were 
distinctly heard on board the ships. At night, the beacon-fires, though 
fewer in number than on the previous evening, again blazed, while the deep- 
toned bell tolled as usual until morning. Everything, however, remained 
on board the ships tranquil and without interruption, as befitted the Chris- 
tian day of rest. 

On the next morning early (Monday) the surveying boats were despatched 
higher up the bay, and Commander Lee, of the steamer Mississippi, was 
directed to get his ship under way to protect them, if necessary. The 
governor of Uraga, on seeing the Mississippi going higher up, came on board, 
although he had been told that there would be no necessity for further com- 
munication or discussion until the reply from Yedo was received. 

The Commodore had sent the Mississippi and the boats on the service, 
in part for effect, being satisfied that the very circumstance of approaching 
nearer to Yedo with a powerful ship would alarm the authorities, and induce 
them to give a more favorable answer to his demands. It happened as was 
expected. The governor pretended that his visit to the ship was simply for 
the purpose of bringing the information that it was very probable the letters 
(meaning, as was then supposed, the translations of the originals) would be 
received on the following day, and forwarded to Yedo. His evident object 
in coming on board, however, was to ascertain for what purpose the Missis- 
sippi and the surveying boats had ascended the bay, and he accordingly put 
the question. 

The Commodore, anticipating the inquiry, directed that the governor 
should be informed that, unless the business which had brought the squadron 
to the bay of Yedo was arranged during the present visit, he, the Commo- 
dore, would be obliged to return in the ensuing spring with a larger force; 
and, as the anchorage in front ?f Uraga was not convenient or safe, he was 
desirous of seeking a more favorable situation nearer to Yedo, which would 
facilitate his communication with that city. 

The surveying party, as on the previous occasion, was composed of boats 
from each ship of the squadron, under the command of Lieutenant Bent. 
They were sent out with general directions from the Commodore to go as 
far up the bay toward Yedo as possible, without getting out of signal dis- 
tance from the squadron, and to avoid giving any occasion of conflict with 
the people of the country. Their departure was watched with considerable 
anxiety by those on board the Susquehanna. Thirty fathoms of her cable 
had been taken in, and the remainder was ready to slip, while steam was 
got up, to be in readiness for any emergency. The movements on shore 
were quite lively : in the distance, on the eastern shore, large numbers of 
soldiers — as many apparently as a thousand — were seen to march down from 



278 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

the higher ground to the beach, and there embark in boats, which put off 
immediately in the direction of the surveying party. And, during the 
whole time, the various batteries were busy with the movements of the 
troops, who seemed to be either preparing for hostilities, or attempting to 
make a formidable show of force. 

The boats proceeded from ten to twelve miles further toward Yedo than 
the anchorage of the squadron. In proceeding up the bay, numbers of 
government vessels appeared, waving off the intruders, and some thirty-five 
put off in a direction fronting the course of the surveying boats, as if in- 
tending to intercept them. Lieutenant Bent, who was in advance, ordered 
his men to rest on their oars, and to affix their bayonets to their muskets, 
but this proceeding did not seem to have the effect he had hoped for, of 
stopping the Japanese boats. They still came on. The lieutenant, anxious to 
avoid a rupture, then changed his course somewhat, to prevent an immediate 
collision, and despatched a boat for the Mississippi, which was about two 
miles astern. The desired effect was soon produced by the approach of the 
steamer, and there was no apparent disposition shown afterward to inter- 
fere with the party, which continued the exploration. Deep soundings were 
found the whole distance, with a soft bottom of mud. A channel seemed to 
exist at the furthest point reached ; in the centre the lead gave a depth of 
twenty fathoms, while on the sides it struck upon banks of mud at not more 
than five fathoms. It was inferred that there were deep soundings still fur- 
ther, and that the squadron might readily push on with safety to within a 
few miles of Yedo itself At the extreme distance of the boats' passage 
there was a smaller bay, cut out, as it were, from the larger, which, it was 
supposed, would probably afford an excellent anchorage. On either side, 
the shores were abrupt, and extended back into lofty hills, and from the 
position of the boats at this point a town was observed on the right side of 
the bay of Yedo. The Mississippi had disappeared for some time from the 
view of those on board the other ships ; but, just as the signal gun was 
about to be fired for her recall, she shot round the promontory, some two or 
three miles up the bay, which had concealed her from sight, came steaming 
down, with the boats in tow, and was soon quietly settled at her old anchor- 
age, passing on her way between the Susquehanna and the Uraga shore, and 
attracting the attention of numbers of soldiers on the latter, who came out 
to see her pass. 

The bay was covered all day, as usual, with the Japanese junks, sailing 
up or down, apparently carrying on a brisk commerce, and not at all dis- 
turbed by the presence of the squadron. Some of the fishing smacks and 
other boats would, indeed, at times approach pretty near to the ships, but 
obviously merely to gratify curiosity, as their crews would stand up and 
gaze intently, but gave no sign either of alarm or hostility. The trading 
vessels were observed to stop at a town on the opposite side in coming down, 



IN THE BAT OF YEDO 



279 



and at Uraga in going up, in accordance, probably, as has already been in- 
timated, with some regulation of the customs. Everything passed tranquilly, 
and the next day, which was to bring some reply or other to the Commo- 
dore^ s demands, was looked forward to with deep solicitude and interest by 
every man on board the ships. 





In the Bay of Yedo. 



CHAPTER XIII 



Reply from the Court at Yedo.— Efforts of the Japanese to get the Squadron out of the Bay of Yedc— • 
Commodore's finn refusal to leave Uraga. — Agi-eement of the Emperor to receive, through a Com- 
missioner, tbe President's letter. — High breeding of the Japanese gentlemen ; not ill informed.— Sur- 
vey of the Bay of Yedo.— Fogs of Japan.— Second Visit from the Governor of Uraga.— He brings a 
letter from the Emperor, authorizing a Prince of the Empire to receive, in his name, the President's 
letter. — Arrangements made for the Commodore's reception on shore to deliver the letter. — Minute 
attention of the Japanese to etiquette and ceremonials. — Preparations in the squadron for the visit on 
shore at the reception. — Ships brought near the land, so as to command the place of meeting. — Land- 
ing and reception, and delivery of the letter and other documents. — Princes of Idsu and Iwama.— 
Contents of President's letter. — Commodore's letter of Credence, and his letters to tbe Emperor.— 
Eeceipt given by the Japanese for the papers. — Eeturn to the ships. 



HE day appointed for the re- 
ception of a reply from Yedo 
(Tuesday, July 12) had now 
arrived. Accordingly, at a- 
bout half past nine o'clock in 
the morning, three boats were 
seen to approach the steamer 
Susquehanna from the shores 
of Uraga. These were differ- 
ent from the usual government 
craft, and seemed, unlike the 
others, to be built after an 
European model; the rowers 
sat to their oars, and moved 
them as our boatmen do, 
though somewhat awkwardly, instead of standing and sculling at the sides, in 
accordance with the usual Japanese practice. The construction of the boats 
was evidently very strong, and their models fair. Their masts, sails, and 
rigging were of the ordinary Japanese fashion. The crews were numerous, 
there being thirty in the largest boat, and thirteen in each of the others, and 
their great swarthy frames were clothed in the usual uniform of loose blue 
dresses slashed with white stripes. 




VISIT OF GOVERNOR OF URAGA. 281 

The boat in advance was distinguished, in addition to the government 
mark of a horizontal black stripe across her broad sail, by the black and 
white flag, which indicated the presence of some officers of distinction, and 
such in fact were now on board of her. As she approached nearer to the 
ship, the governor, Kayama Yezaiman, in his rich silken robes, was recog- 
nised, seated on mats spread in the centre of the deck of the vessel, and 
surrounded by his interpreters and suite. 

The advance boat now came alongside, leaving the other two floating at 
some distance from the Susquehanna. His highness, Kayama Yezaiman^ 
with his two interpreters, Hori Tatsnoske, the principal, and Fatcisko To- 
kushumo, his second, were admitted at once on board, and having been received 
with due formality, were ushered into the presence of Captains Buchanan 
and Adams, who were prepared to communicate with them. 

The Commodore had, previously to the arrival of the governor, prepared 
the following letter to the Emperor 

"United States Steam Frigate Susquehanna, 

Uraga, July 12, 1853. 

" The Commander-in-chief of the United States naval forces in these seas, 
being invested with full powers to negotiate treaties, is desirous of confer- 
ring with one of the highest officers of the Empire of Japan, in view of 
making arrangements for the presentation of the original of his letter of 
credence, as also the original of a letter with which he is charged, addressed 
to his Imperial Majesty by the President of the United States. 

" It is hoped that an early day will be appointed for the proposed inter- 
view. 

" To his Imperial Majesty, the Emperor of Japan." 

The governor's first statement was to the efi'ect that there had been a 
misapprehension as to the delivery of the translations of the papers before 
the originals had been received. Although the Commodore was certain that 
there had been no such misunderstanding, nevertheless he, on the second 
interview in the course of the afternoon, consented, after much discussion, to 
deliver the translations and originals, as also a letter from himself to the 
Emperor, at the same time, provided the latter should appoint a suitable 
officer to receive them directly from the hands of the Commodore, who re- 
peated that he would consent to present them to no other than a Japanese 
dignitary of the highest rank. The governor then said that a building 
would be erected on shore for the reception of the Commodore and his 
suite, and that a high official personage, specially appointed by the Emperor, 
would be in attendance to receive the letters. He, however, added that no 
answer would be given in the bay of Yedo, but that it would be transmitted 
to Nagasaki, through the Dutch or Chinese superintendents. This being 



282 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

reported to tlie Commodore, lie wrote the following memorandum, and 
directed it to be translated into Dutch, and fully explained to the gover- 
nor. 

" The Commander-in-chief will not go to Nagasaki, and will receive no 
communication through the Dutch or Chinese. 

" He has a letter from the President of the United States to deliver to 
the Emperor of Japan, or to his secretary of foreign affairs, and he will 
deliver the original to none other : — if this friendly letter of the President 
to the Emperor is not received and duly replied to, he will consider his 
country insulted, and will not hold himself accountable for the consequences. 

" He expects a reply of some sort in a few days, and he will receive such 
reply nowhere but in this neighborhood." [Bay of Uraga.] 

When this was communicated to the governor, he took his departure, 
probably to consult some higher authority, as doubtless there was more than 
one high officer of the court at Uraga, secretly directing the negotiations. 
The interview had lasted three hours, and it was fully one o'clock before 
the governor left the ship. All passed in the most quiet way without any 
interruption to the usual courtesies of friendly negotiation. The shore 
showed every indication of tranquillity, and no movement was observed on 
the part of the fortresses, or the many government boats along the shore. 

The governor, in accordance with his promise on leaving in the morning, 
returned in the afternoon accompanied, as usual, by his interpreters and 
suite. He came off, however, in one of the ordinary Japanese boats, and 
not, as earlier in the day, in the vessel built after the European model. 
Captains Buchanan and Adams were in readiness to receive the party, and 
resumed the renewed conference with the same form and ceremony as be- 
fore; the Commodore still preserving his seclusion and communicating with 
the Japanese only through others. The conversation is here given verbatim 
as reported. 

CONVERSATION. 

Present, Captains Buchanan and Adams, Lieutenant Contee, Flag 
Lieutenant, and Yezaiman, governor of Uraga, and interpreters. 

Yezaiman. As it will take a great deal of time to send up the copies 
of the letters first, and the originals afterwards, I propose that the originals 
and the copies be delivered together, when the high officer comes. The 
governor and the high officer will do their best to entertain the Admiral and 
give him a suitable reception. 

Capt. Buchanan. That is not the object of the Commodore : he wishes 
these communications to go, because there is among them a letter to the 
Emperor from himself, which he desires to send to Yedo with the copies. 
The reply to the President's letter is not of so much consequence just now. 
We want a reply to the Commodore's letter which is in the package. 



CONFEKENCE WITH YEZAIMAN. 283 

Yezaiman. If you send the original letter we will reply to it as soon as 
possible. We are here for the purpose of receiving the letter from the 
President to the Emperor, but now you speak of a letter from the Admiral 
to the Emperor. 

Capt. B. The letter from the Admiral is in the package containing the 
copies of the President's letter. It states that he has in his possession the 
original letter of the President, and is empowered by the President to 
deliver it in person to the Emperor, or to a high officer of equal rank with 
himself, appointed by the Emperor. 

Yezaiman. We are very sorry that you separate the two ; it would be 
better to send the originals at once with the copies. 

Capt. B. That is impossible. The letter of the Admiral states that he 
has the original letter of the President, and is empowered to deliver it 
either in person or to an officer of his own rank ; when the Emperor is 
aware of the fact that the Admiral has the letter, then he will appoint an 
officer of the same rank to receive the original, and the Admiral will return 
at some future day to receive the answer. 

Yezaiman. Can you not contrive to manage it in such a way that the 
original letter may be sent with the copies ? 

Capt. B. It cannot be done. 

Yezaiman. When the ships first came it was not mentioned that the 
copies must be sent first, and not the original letters ; and now you mention 
it. 

Capt. B. During the first visit you made here, you were shown the 
original letters, and also the copies, and the same statement was then made 
by us as now. — [After a pause Captain B. resumed.) — Will the high officer 
who will come here be accredited by the Emperor to receive the letters from 
the Admiral ? 

Yezaiman. He has the authorization of the Emperor. 

Capt. B. Will he have any proof to show that he is thus authorized ? 

Yezaiman. Yes, he can prove it. 

Capt. B. One of the letters is from the President, informing the Em- 
peror of Japan that Commodore Perry is sent as a high officer appointed 
by himself, and Commodore Perry will expect similar credentials on the 
part of the officer appointed to speak with him, 

Yezaiman. He will receive the letter, but cannot enter into any negotia- 
tions. 

Capt. B. What is the rank and official title of the officer who is ap- 
pointed ? — ( While the interpreter is writing the title of the officer in ques- 
tion, in Chinese characters, Captains Buchanan and Adams retire to con- 
sult with the Commodore.) 

Lieutenant Contee. When will the high officers be ready to receive the 
letter ? 



284 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

Interpreter. To-morrow or the day after. 

Lieut. G. "Where is the house ? 

Interpreter. On the shore. 

Lieut. C. Can you point it out from here ? 

Interpreter. It cannot be seen. 

Lieut. C, {repeating his last question.) Can you point it out from here ? 

Interpreter. It is on the other side of the hills — you can see it from 
another position. 

Lieut. C. What was the name of the officer who came on hoard on the 
day of our arrival ? 

Interpreter. Nagazhima Saberoske. 

(Captains Buchanan and Adams now returned.) 

Captain Buchanan. Captain Adams and I have just had a conversation 
with the Admiral.* He says that, since you appear to have wholly misun- 
derstood the matter about the letter, if you can show proof that an officer 
of the proper rank is appointed to receive them, he will waive the matter in 
dispute, and deliver the original at the same time with the copies. But he 
requires strict evidence that the officer who shall meet him shall be of the 
necessary rank, and that he has been specially appointed for the purpose by 
the Emperor. 

Yezaiman. Nagasaki is the proper place to receive letters from foreign 
nations, and because Uraga is not an appropriate place, the officer will not 
be allowed to converse, but only to receive the letters. 

Capt. B. He is only desired to receive the letters. Will he come on 
board, or will the letters be delivered on shore ? 

Yezaiman. He will not come on board, but will receive them on shore. 

Capt. B. Before the letters are delivered, the credentials of the officer 
must be translated into Dutch, signed with the proper signatures, and sent 
on board the Admiral. 

Yezaiman. He will be accredited to receive the letter, but cannot speak. 

Capt. B. He will not be desired to speak, but he must have a paper 
signed by the Emperor, stating that he is empowered to receive the letters. 

Yezaiman. He will have a document properly signed. 

[Captain Buchanan now directed Mr. Portman to write in Dutch 
the declaration he had made^ and to give it to the interpreter. The follow- 
ing is the English version : " There has been a great deal of misunderstand- 
ing about receiving the original letter and the translated copies, whether to 
be received together or separately. The Admiral now is willing to meet 

* " It is proper to remark that the title of Admiral was necessarily used at these inter- 
views, to designate your rank, as we found Yezaiman's interpreters were familiar with it, 
and were entirely unacquainted with that of Commodore." — Extract from Captain Adams 
official report to Commodore Perry. 



CONFERENCE WITH TEZAIMAN. 285 

with a higli officer of Yedo, holding rank in Japan corresponding to the 
rank of Admiral in the United States. This officer shall be accredited, viz : 
possess a writing properly signed by the Emperor, authorizing him to receive 
the said letters. Of this writing or letter of credence shall be made a copy, 
translated into Dutch, and the same copy be transmitted to the Admiral 
before the interview takes place. 

" At this interview there shall be no discussions whatever ; no more than 
an exchange of civilities and compliments. 

" The Admiral does not insist upon receiving an answer to the original 
letter of the President immediately, but will come back for that purpose 
after some months."] 

Yezaiman. The high officer will not be allowed to speak on the matter : 
only to make and return compliments. 

Capt. B. That is all that is necessary. 

Yezaiman. The high officer will be here the day after to-morrow, to re- 
ceive the letter on shore. 

Capt. B. At what hour ? 

Yezaiman. At eight o'clock in the morning. As soon as we see the 
flag hoisted we will come on board the ship. 

Capi. B. "Will the high officer bring the copy of the letter empowering 
him to act, properly certified ? 

Yezaiman. He will bring it. 

Interpreter. The governor is very grateful for his kind reception on 
board. 

Capt. B. We are very happy to see him. Where is the place of recep- 
tion? 

Interpreter. I can point out the place, but the house cannot be seen. 

Yezaiman. Will the Admiral await the Emperor's answer to the Presi- 
dent's letter ? 

Copt B. No ; the Admiral will not now wait for it. 

Yezaiman. When will he come for a reply ? 

Capt. B. He will return in a few months to receive the Emperor's reply. 

Yezaiman. I would desire a statement in writing to that effect. [ There 
being no satisfactory answer to this, Yezaiman continued.] The high officer 
who receives the letter of the President will give a receipt for it, as an as- 
surance that it has been received. 

Capt. B. Can you not appoint a place nearer the ship ? The distance 
is very great for the men to pull in a boat. The Admiral will be satisfied 
to meet the high officer in a tent, or in one of the forts nearer the ships. 
The interview will not be long. 

Interpreter. The house is not far off; it is less than a Japanese mile. 

Capt. B. Can you not arrange to have it nearer the ships ? 

Interpreter. The governor says he will endeavor to arrange it. 



286 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

Capt. B. Can you let us know to-morrow morning ? 

Interpreter. Yes. 

The conference here ended. 

Kayama Yezaiman and his companions seemed to he in the highest good 
humor, and readily availed themselves of the proffered courtesies of the 
oflScers of the Susquehanna, which were accepted and responded to in a 
manner indicating the most polished good breeding. In receiving the 
hospitalities of their hosts, it may be remarked that they partook freely, and 
seemed to relish particularly the whiskey and brandy which formed part of 
the entertainment. The governor especially appeared to appreciate the 
foreign liquors, particularly when mixed with su^gar, and smacked his lips 
with great gusto, as he drained his glass to its last sweetened dregs. His 
interpreters, in the growing freedom of convivial enjoyment, made merry 
over his highness's bacchanalian proclivity, and laughingly expressing their 
alarm lest Yezaiman should take a drop too much, remarked, " his face is 
already growing red." 

Though always preserving a certain gentlemanly aplomb and that self- 
contained manner which bespeaks high breeding, these Japanese dignitaries 
were disposed to be quite social, and shared freely and gaily in conversation. 
Nor did their knowledge and general information fall short of their elegance 
of manners and amiability of disposition. They were not only well-bred, 
but not ill-educated, as they were proficients in the Dutch, Chinese, and 
Japanese languages, and not unacquainted with the general principles of 
science and of the facts of the geography of the world. When a terrestrial 
globe was placed before them, and their attention was called to the delinea- 
tion on it of the United States, they immediately placed their fingers on 
Washington and New York, as if perfectly familiar with the fact that one 
was the capital, and the other the commercial metropolis of our country. 
They also, with equal promptitude, pointed out England, France, Denmark, 
and other kingdoms of Europe. Their inquiries in reference to the United 
States showed them not to be entirely ignorant of the facts connected with 
the material progress of our country ; thus, when they asked if roads were 
not cut through our mountains, they were referring (as was supposed) to tun- 
nels on our railroads. And this supposition was confirmed on the interpreter's 
asking, as they examined the ship's engine, whether it was not a similar 
machine, although smaller, which was used for travelling on the American 
roads. They also inquired whether the canal across the isthmus was yet 
finished, alluding probably to the Panama railroad which was then in pro- 
gress of construction. They knew, at any rate, that labor was being per- 
formed to connect the two oceans, and called it by the name of something 
they had seen, a canal. 

After refreshments and conversation in the cabin, Yezaiman and his in- 
terpreters were invited to inspect the ship, an ofi'er which they accepted with 



JAPANESE INTELLIGENCE. 287 

great politeness, and as they came upon deck, notwithstanding there were 
crowds of officers and men around who could scarce repress the manifesta- 
tion of their curiosity, the Japanese never for a moment lost their self-pos- 
session, but showed the utmost composure and quiet dignity of manner. 
They evinced an intelligent interest in all the various arrangements of the 
vessel, observed the big gun and rightly styled it a " Paixhan," and exhibited 
none of that surprise which would naturally ^be expected from those who 
were beholding for the first time the wonderful art and mechanism of a per- 
fected steamship. The engine evidently was an object of great interest to 
them, but the interpreters showed that they were not entirely unacquainted 
with its principles. Much of this cool but not unobservant composure may 
have been affected, in accordance with a studied policy, but yet, there can 
be no doubt, that however backward the Japanese themselves may be in 
practical science, the best educated among them are tolerably well informed 
of its progress among more civilized or rather cultivated nations. 

On leaving the cabin, the Japanese dignitaries had left their swords be- 
hind, two of which are always worn by those of certain rank in the empire. 
This gave an opportunity for inspection, on the part of the curious, of these 
badges of authority, which seemed to be, in accordance with their purpose, 
more suited for show than service. The blades, however, were apparently 
of good steel and temper, and highly polished, although their shape as well 
as that of their hilts, without a guard, was awkwardly constructed for use. 
The mountings were of pure gold, and the scabbards of shark's skin, re- 
markably well manufactured. The visit of the governor was prolonged into 
the evening, and it was seven o'clock before he took his departure, when he 
and his interpreters left the ship with their usual graceful courtesies, bowing at 
every step, and smiling in an amiable yet dignified manner. They were evident- 
ly favorably impressed with their reception and all they had seen. The studied 
politeness which marked their intercourse with our officers was evidently 
not assumed for the occasion, for it is so habitual with them, that in their 
ordinary relations with each other they preserve tUe same stately courtesy ; 
and it was observed, that no sooner had Yezaiman and his interpreters 
entered their boat alongside the Susquehanna, than they commenced saluting 
each other as formally as if they had met for the first time and were passing 
through the ceremonials of a personal introduction. While these scenes 
were in transaction on board, the boats of the squadron sent out by the 
Commodore were kept busy all day sounding and observing as on previous 
occasions. 

The next day was Wednesday (July 13th), and the visit of the governor 
was naturally expected at an early hour, in fulfilment of his promise. There 
was, however, no indication through the morning of his coming, and every 
thing remained in a state of tranquil expectation. There seemed to be some 
little movement on the part of the authorities, as far as could be gathered 



288 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

from an observation of the neighboring land. From the opposite shores 
numerous vessels, loaded with soldiers, crossed to the Uraga side, and a 
large junk with the usual government flag and insignia put into the harbor. 
The brisk trade of the bay was carried on as usual, and Japanese boats, 
both large and small, were moving up and down in constant circulation. 
The various towns and villages grouped about the bay were thus interchang- 
ing their elements of life, and, stimulated into commercial activity by the 
throb from the busy heart of the great city, poured into Yedo their over- 
flowing abundance. There were no less than sixty-seven junks counted as 
passing up the bay during the single day. 

The weather continued warm, with the thermometer indicating as high 
a point as 87°, but the heat was tempered by an agreeable sea breeze. The 
view of the shores was much obscured at times by the haze which is said to 
be so prevalent on the Japanese coast ; but in the experience of the squadron 
the weather hitherto had been remarkably clear, and this day was the foggiest 
that had been seen since the ships arrived in the bay. Nothing could be seen 
of the great land-mark — the lofty peak of Fusi — which, by the way, was 
generally more plainly visible toward the evening than during the day, and 
was often observed beautifully distinct at sunset, when its summits would 
glow with a rich halo of crimson light. 

The expected visit of the governor occurred at last, at about four o'clock 
in the afternoon. His highness Kayama Yezaiman, accompanied, as usual, 
by his first and second interpreters, presented himself, with a thousand 
apologies fbr not having come earlier, as the high officer from Yedo had but 
just arrived. The apologies having been made, the governor exhibited the 
original order of the Emperor, addressed to the functionary who had been 
appointed to receive the Commodore. The Emperor's letter was short, and 
was certified by a large seal attached to it. This imperial epistle, which was 
wrapped in velvet, and enclosed in a box made of sandal-wood, was treated 
by the governor with such reverence that he would allow no one to touch it. 
A copy of it in Dutch, and a certificate verifying the authenticity of the 
document, and of the Emperor's seal attached thereto, given under the hand 
of Kayama Yezaiman, the governor, were also presented. The translations 
are as follows : 

Translation of letter of credence given hy the Emperor of Japan io 
his highness^ Toda^ Prince of Idzu. 

" I send you to Uraga to receive the letter of the President of the United 
States to me, which letter has recently been brought to Uraga by the 
Admiral, upon receiving which you will proceed to Yedo, and bring the same 
to me. 

[Here is the Emperor's seal.] 

"Sixth month in 1853." 



VISIT OF JAPANESE DIGNITAEIES. 289 

Translation of certificate of Kayama Yezaiman^ governor of Uraga^ 
verifying the authenticity of the Emperor'^ s letter and seal. 

" You can rest assured that the higli officer who has been accredited by 
the Emperor of Japan himself, and who consequently comes here to Uraga 
from Yedo for the purpose of receiving the original and translated letters, is 
of very high rank, equp^l to that of the Lord Admiral. I do assure that. 

"KAYAMA YEZAIMAN." 

The governor, in the course of the conference, took care to state that 
the person appointed by the Emperor had no authority to enter into discus- 
sions with the Commodore, but was merely empowered to receive the papers 
and convey them to his sovereign. He also stated that he had made inquiry 
as to the practicability of changing the place of meeting, and said that, as a 
suitable building had already been erected, it would be inconvenient to change. 
The Commodore was prepared for this reply, and as he could not know 
whether any treachery was intended or not, he had determined to provide, 
as far as he could, against every contingency, and had therefore ordered the 
surveying party to examine the little bay at the head of which the building 
had been erected for his reception. The officer sent upon this service 
promptly performed the duty, and reported that the ships could be brought 
within gun-shot of the place, where great numbers of the people had been 
observed employed in the completion of the building, in transporting furni- 
ture, and in otherwise preparing for the occasion. 

The governor offered to accompany a boat to the place appointed for 
the reception, but this was declined, and he was informed that, as it did not 
befit the dignity of the Commodore to proceed a long distance in a small 
boat, the squadron would be removed to a position nearer the building de- 
signed for the reception. It was then agreed that the Commodore and his 
party should leave the ships between eight and nine o'clock the next day 
(Thursday), although the Japanese seemed particularly anxious that the in- 
terview should take place at an earlier hour, assigning as a reason that the 
heat of the day might thus be avoided. 

The question was now asked as to how many officers would accompany 
the Commodore on the occasion, to which they received the answer that he 
would be followed by a large retinue, since it was the custom of the United 
States when an officer of high rank bears a communication from the 
President to the sovereign of another country, for him to go with such an 
attendance as will be respectful to the power to which he is sent. Accord- 
ingly, the governor was informed that all the officers who could be spared 
from the squadron would accompany the Commodore, as the greater number 
would imply the greater compliment. 

In the course of the conference, the Japanese dignitaries showed their 
great regard for ceremony, by adverting to various minute points of etiquette 
19 



290 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

in reference to the approacliing reception. They announced that all the 
Japanese officers would be clothed in full official costume, and not in the 
dresses worn on ordinary occasions. They seemed to be considerably 
troubled because they would not be able to seat their visitors, on the morrow, 
in the same kind of arm chair as that then occupied by themselves in the 
cabin, and apologized for not having any such. They were no less anxious 
on the score of the wines and brandies, and begged that they might be ex- 
cused for not offering the same as they had been regaled with, since the 
country did not possess them. They were told to dismiss their solicitude 
on these points ; that, as the practice of hospitality, and manners and cus- 
toms, necessarily differed in ..different countries, it was not reasonable to ex- 
pect to find American habits prevailing in Japan ; and that the Commodore 
would be satisfied to be seated in the same manner as the dignitary appointed 
to meet him, while the other American officers would content themselves 
with such seats as were provided for their equals in rank among the 
Japanese. 

They then made some inquiries in regard to the minute details of the 
approaching ceremony, as to whether the Commodore would present the 
President's letter directly from his own hand into that of the Japanese com- 
missioner, whose name and title, by the way, were now announced as Toda- 
Idzu-no-Kami, First Counsellor of the Empire. 

It was asked whether the Commodore would immediately return to his 
ship after delivering the letter, and also when he would come back to Japan 
to receive an answer. The Chinese interpreter, Mr. Williams, showed them 
a map or plan of Yedo, which they said must have been drawn some seventy 
years ago, as the capital had changed much since the plan was made, having 
greatly increased in size, and much improved. They, however, recognized 
on the plan various conspicuous places, and pointed them out very readily, 
as if politely willing to gratify the natural curiosity of their company. 

The whole conference had lasted about two hours and a half, and when 
the Japanese functionaries rose to depart it was already evening. They left 
the ship with the usual polite courtesies, bowing, as usual, at every step ; and 
the chief interpreter, Ilori Tatznoske, who had evidently a great aptitude 
for the acquisition of foreign languages, mustered English enough to say 
very distinctly as he departed, '' Want to go home." 

The Commodore, in preparation for the coming event of the next morn- 
ing, summoned his captains, from the several vessels of the squadron, on 
board the flag-ship. Orders were then given that the vessels should be re- 
moved, early in the morning, to an anchorage in line, covering the whole 
bay, in front of the place of reception,* as the Commodore was resolved to 
be prepared against any possible treachery or duplicity on the part of the 

* Marked on the chart as " Reception Bay." 



PREPARATIONS FOR AN INTERVIEW. 291 

people with whom he had to deal, and the object of the Japanese in the 
selection of this place of meeting was not very apparent to his mind. It 
was also ordered that all the officers who could possibly leave the ships should 
appear in full uniform, and accompany the Commodore to the reception, in 
order that he might present as imposing a retinue as practicable. The sur- 
veying boats had been kept busy during the day, completing their observa- 
tions, and were allowed to proceed with their work without any molestation 
from the native authorities. 

The Japanese seemed no less busy in active preparation for the morning's 
ceremony than the Americans. Various government vessels sailed down 
the bay, and a large fleet of small boats arrived on the Uraga shore from the 
opposite coast, evidently preparatory to the approaching occasion. A con- 
stant sound of hammers, intermingled with the noisy voices of Japanese 
laborers, arising as was supposed from the quarter where the building was 
in progress, disturbed the quiet of the night, and was prolonged into the 
morning watches. All was busy preparation for the coming day. 

Thursday (July 14), opened with a sun that was somewhat obscured at 
early dawn, but which soon canie out brightly, and dispelled the fogs and 
clouds which overhung the land and seemed to give an inauspicious aspect 
to the occasion. As the atmosphere cleared and the shores were disclosed 
to view, the steady labors of the Japanese during the night were revealed in 
the showy effect on the Uraga shore. Ornamental screens of cloth had been 
so arranged as to give a more distinct prominence, as well as the appearance 
of greater size to the bastions and forts; and two tents had been spread 
among the trees. The screens were stretched tightly in the usual way 
upon posts of wood, and each interval between the posts was thus distinct- 
ly marked, and had, in the distance, the appearance of panelling. Upon 
these seeming panels were emblazoned the imperial arms, alternating with 
the device of a scarlet flower bearing large heart-shaped leaves. Flags and 
streamers, upon which were various designs represented in gay colors, hung 
from the several angles of the screens, while behind them thronged crowds 
of soldiers, arrayed in a costume which had not been before observed, and 
which was supposed to belong to high occasions only. The main portion of 
the dress was a species of frock of a dark color, with short skirts, the waists 
of which were gathered in with a sash, and which was without sleeves, the 
arms of the wearers being bare. 

All on board the ships were alert from the earliest hour, making the 
necessary preparations. Steam was got up and the anchors were weighed, 
that the ships might be moved to a position where their guns would com- 
mand the place of reception. The sailing vessels, however, because of a 
calm, were unable to get into position. The officers, seamen and marines 
who were to accompany the Commodore were selected, and as large a num- 
ber of them mustered as could possibly be spared from the whole squadron. 



292 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

All, of course, were eager to bear a part in tlie ceremonies of the day, but 
all could not possibly go, as a sufficient number must be left to do ship's 
duty. Many of the officers and men were selected by. lot, and when the 
full complement, which amounted to nearly three hundred, was filled up, 
each one busied himself in getting his person ready for the occasion. The 
officers, as had been ordered, were in full official dress, while the sailors and 
marines were in their naval and military uniforms of blue and white. 

Before eight bells in the morning watch had struck, the Susquehanna 
and Mississippi moved slowly down the bay. Simultaneously with this 
movement of our ships, six Japanese boats were observed to sail in the 
same direction, but more within the land. The government striped flag dis- 
tinguished two of them, showing the presence of some high officials, while 
the others carried red banners, and were supposed to have on board a retinue 
or guard of soldiers. On doubling the head-land which separated the former 
anchorage from the bay below, the preparations of the Japanese on the shore 
came suddenly into view. The land bordering the head of the bay was gay 
with a long stretch of painted screens of cloth, upon which was emblazoned 
the arms of the Emperor. Nine tall standards stood in the centre of an 
immense number of banners of divers lively colors, which were arranged on 
either side, until the whole formed a crescent of variously tinted flags, which 
fluttered brightly in the rays of the morning sun. From the tall standards 
were suspended broad pennons of rich scarlet, which swept the ground with 
their flowing length. On the beach in front of this display were ranged 
regiments of soldiers, who stood in fixed order, evidently arrayed to give an 
appearance of martial force, that the Americans might be duly impressed 
with the military power of the Japanese. 

As the beholder faced the bay, he saw on the left of the village of Gorir 
Hama a straggling group of peaked-roofed houses, built between the beach 
and the base of the high ground which ran in green acclivities behind, and 
ascended from height to height to the distant mountains. A luxuriant val- 
ley or gorge, walled in with richly wooded hills, opened at the head of the 
bay, and breaking the uniformity of the curve of the shore gave a beautiful 
variety to the landscape. On the right some hundred Japanese boats, or 
more, were arranged in parallel lines along the margin of the shore, with a 
red flag flying at the stern of each. The whole efi"ect, though not startling, 
was novel and cheerful, and everything combined to give a pleasing aspect 
to the picture. The day was bright, with a clear sunlight which seemed to 
give fresh vitality alike to the verdant hill-sides, and the gay banners, and 
the glittering soldiery. Back from the beach, opposite the centre of the 
curved shore of the bay, the building, just constructed for the reception, 
rose in three pyramidal shaped roofs, high above the surrounding houses. It 
was covered in front by striped cloth, which was extended in screens to either 
side. It had a new, fresh look, indicative of its recent erection, and with 



AERANGEMENTS FOR LANDING. 293 

its peaked summits was not unlike, in the distance, a group of very large 
ricks of grain. 

Two boats approached as the steamers neared the opening of the hay, 
and when the anchors were dropped they came alongside the Susquehanna. 
Kayama Yezaiman, with his two interpreters, came on board, followed im- 
mediately by Nagazima Saboroske and an officer in attendance, who had 
come in the second boat. They were duly received at the gangway, and 
conducted to seats on the quarter deck. All were dressed in full official 
costume, somewhat different from their ordinary garments. Their gowns, 
though of the usual shape, were much more elaborately adorned. The ma- 
terial was of very rich silk brocade of gay colors, turned up with yellow 
velvet, and the whole dress was highly embroidered with gold lace in various 
figures, among which was conspicuously displayed on the back, sleeves, and 
breast the arms of the wearer. Saboroske, the sub-governor of Uraga, wore a 
pair of very broad but very short trowsers, which when his legs (which was 
not often the case) stood still and together, looked very much like a slit petti- 
coat, while below, his nether limbs were partly naked and partly covered by 
black woollen socks. Saboroske, in spite of his elaborate toilette and his 
finery, all bedizened with gold thread, glossy silk, and gay colors, did not 
produce a very impressive effect ; but by his comical appearance provoked 
mirth rather than admiration. He had, in fact, very much the appearance 
of an unusually brilliant knave of trumps. 

A signal was now hoisted from the Susquehanna as a summons for the 
boats from the other ships, and in the course of half an hour they had all 
pulled alongside with their various officers, sailors, and marines, detailed for 
the day^s ceremonies. The launches and cutters numbered no less than fif- 
teen, and presented quite an imposing array ; and with all on board of them 
in proper uniform, a picturesque effect was not wanting. Captain Buchanan, 
having taken his place in his barge, led the way, flanked on either side by 
the two Japanese boats containing the governor and vice-governor of Uraga 
with their respective suites ; and these dignitaries acted as masters of cere- 
mony and pointed out the course to the American flotilla. The rest of the 
ships' boats followed after in order, with the cutters containing the two 
bands of the steamers, who enlivened the occasion with their cheerful music. 

The boats skimmed briskly over the smooth waters ; for such was the 
skill and consequent rapidity of the Japanese scullers, that our sturdy oars- 
men were put to their mettle to keep up with their guides. When the 
boats had reached half way to the shore the thirteen guns of the Susque- 
hanna began to boom away and re-echo among the hills. This announced 
the departure of the Commodore, who, stepping into his barge, was rowed 
off to the land. 

The guides in the Japanese boats pointed to the landing place toward 
the centre of the curved shore, where a temporary wharf had been built out 



294 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

from the beach by means of bags of sand and straw. The advance boat 
soon touched the spot, and Captain Buchanan, who commanded the party, 
sprang ashore, being the first of the Americans who landed in the Kingdom 
of Japan. He was immediately followed by Major Zeilin, of the marines. 
The rest of the boats now pulled in and disembarked their respective loads. 
The marines (one hundred) marched up the wharf, and formed into line on 
either side, facing the sea; then came the hundred sailors, who were also 
ranged in rank and file as they advanced, while the two bands brought up 
the rear. The whole number of Americans, including sailors, marines, 
musicians, and officers, amounted to nearly three hundred ; no very formida- 
ble array, but still quite enough for a peaceful occasion, and composed of 
very vigorous, able-bodied men, who contrasted strongly with the smaller 
and more effeminate-looking Japanese. These latter had mustered in great 
force, the amount of which the governor of Uraga stated to be five thousand ; 
but, seemingly, they far outnumbered that. Their line extended around the 
whole circuit of the beach, from the further extremity of the village to the 
abrupt acclivity of the hill which bounded the bay on the northern side ; 
while an immense number of the soldiers thronged in, behind and under 
cover of the cloth screens which stretched along the rear. The loose order 
of this Japanese army did not betoken any very great degree of discipline. 
The soldiers were tolerably well armed and equipped. Their uniform was 
very much like the ordinary Japanese dress. Their arms were swords, spears, 
and match-locks. Those in front were all infantry, archers and lancers ; but 
large bodies of cavalry were seen behind, somewhat in the distance, as if 
held in reserve. The horses of these seemed of a fine breed, hardy, of good 
bottom, and brisk in action ; and these troopers, with their rich caparisons, 
presented at least a showy cavalcade. Along the base of the rising ground 
which ascended behind the village, and entirely in the rear of the soldiers, 
was a large number of the inhabitants, among whom there was quite an as- 
semblage of women, who gazed with intense curiosity, through the openings 
in the line of the military, upon the stranger visitors from another hemis- 
phere. 

On the arrival of the Commodore, his suite of officers formed a double 
line along the landing place, and as he passed up between, they fell into 
order behind him. The procession was then formed and took up its march 
toward the house of reception, the route to which was pointed out by Kayama 
Yezairaan and his interpreter, who preceded the party. The marines led 
the way, and the sailors following, the Commodore was duly escorted up 
the beach. The United States flag and the broad pennant were borne by 
two athletic seamen, who had been selected from the crews of the squadron 
on account of their stalwart proportions. Two boys, dressed for the cere- 
mony, preceded the Commodore, bearing in an envelope of scarlet cloth the 
boxes which contained his credentials and the President's letter. These 



KECEPTION OF THE COMMODORE. 295 

documents, of folio size, were beautifully -written on vellum, and not folded, 
but bound in blue silk velvet. Eacb seal, attached by cords of interwoven 
gold and silk with pendant gold tassels, was encased in a circular box six 
inches in diameter and three in depth, wrought of pure gold. Each of the 
documents, together with its seal, was placed in a box of rosewood about a 
foot long, with lock, hinges, and mountings, all of gold. On either side of 
the Commodore marched a tall, well-formed negro, who, armed to the teeth, 
acted as his personal guard. These blacks, selected for the occasion, were 
two of the best-looking fellows of their color that the squadron could fur- 
nish. All this parade was but for effect. 

The procession was obliged to make a somewhat circular movement to 
reach the entrance of the house of reception. This gave a good opportunity 
for the display of the escort. The building, which was but a short distance 
from the landing, was soon reached. In front of the entrance were two 
small brass cannon which were : Id and apparently of European manufacture; 
on either side were grouped a rather straggling company of Japanese guards, 
whose costume was different from that of the other soldiers. Those on the 
right were dressed in tunics, gathered in at the waist with broad sashes, and 
in full trowsers of a grey color, the capacious width of which was drawn in 
at the knees, while their heads were bound with a white cloth in the form of 
a turban. They were armed with muskets, upon which bayonets and flint- 
locks were observed. The guards on the left were dressed in a rather dingy 
brown-colored uniform turned up with yellow, and carried old-fashioned 
match-locks. 

The Commodore having been escorted to the door of the house of recep- 
tion, entered with his suite. The building showed marks of hasty erection, 
and the timbers and boards of pine wood were numbered, as if they had 
been fashioned previously and brought to the spot all ready to be put 
together. The first portion of the structure entered was a kind of tent, 
principally constructed of painted canvas, upon which in various places the 
imperial arms were painted. Its area enclosed a space of nearly forty feet 
square. Beyond this entrance hall was an inner apartment, to which a car- 
peted path led. The floor of the outer room was generally covered with 
white cloth, but through its centre passed a slip of red-colored carpet, which 
showed the direction to the interior chamber. This latter was entirely car- 
peted with red cloth, and was the state apartment of the building where the 
reception was to take place. Its floor was somewhat raised, like a dais, above 
the general level, and was handsomely adorned for the occasion. Violet- 
colored hangings of silk and fine cotton, with the imperial coat of arms em- 
broidered in white, hung from the walls which enclosed the inner room, on 
three sides, while the front was left open to the antechamber or outer room. 

As the Commodore and his suite ascended to the reception room, the 
two dignitaries who were seated on the left arose and bowed, and the Com- 



296 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

modore and suite were conducted to the arm chairs which had been pro- 
vided for them on the right. The interpreters announced the names and 
titles of the high Japanese functionaries as Toda-Idzu-no-hami^ Toda, 
prince of Idzu, and Ido-Iwami-no-kami, Ido, prince of Iwami. They were 
both men of advanced years, the former apparently about fifty, and the 
latter some ten or fifteen years older. Prince Toda was the better looking 
man of the two, and the intellectual expression of his large forehead and 
amiable look of his regular features contrasted very favorably with the more 
wrinkled and contracted, and less intelligent face of his associate, the prince 
of Iwami. They were both very richly dressed, their garments being of 
heavy silk brocade interwoven with elaborately wrought figures in gold an^ 
silver. 

From the beginning, the two princes had assumed an air of statuesque 
formality which they preserved during the whole interview, as they never 
spoke a word, and rose from their seats only at the entrance and exit of the 
Commodore, when they made a grave and formal bow. Yezaiman and his 
interpreters acted as masters of ceremony during the occasion. On entering, 
they took their positions at the upper end of the room, kneeling down be- 
side a large lacquered box of scarlet color, supported by feet, gilt or of 
brass. 

For some time after the Commodore and his suite had taken their seats 
there was a pause of some minutes, not a word being uttered on either side. 
Tatznoske, the principal interpreter, was the first to break silence, which he 
did by asking Mr. Portman, the Dutch interpreter, whether the letters were 
ready for delivery, and stating that the prince Toda was prepared to receive 
them ; and that the scarlet box at the upper end of the room was prepared 
as the receptacle for them. The Commodore, upon this being communicated 
to him, beckoned to the boys who stood in the lower hall to advance, when 
they immediately obeyed his summons and came forward, bearing the hand- 
some boxes which contained the President's letter and other documents. 
The two stalwart negroes followed immediately in rear of the boys, and 
marching up to the scarlet receptacle, received the boxes from the hands of 
the bearers, opened them, took out the letters and, displaying the writing 
and seals, laid them upon the lid of the Japanese box — all in perfect silence. 
The President's letter, the Commodore's letter of credence, and two com- 
munications from the Commodore to the Emperor, are here given. A third 
letter from him has already been presented on a previous page. All these, 
however, accompanied the letter from the President and were delivered at 
the same time with it. 

MILLAPv^D FILLMORE, PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, TO HIS 
IMPERIAL MAJESTY, THE EMPEROR OF JAPAN. 

Great and good Friend : I send you this public letter by Commodore 



PRESIDENT FILLMORE'S LETTER. 297 

MatiJiew C. Perry, an officer of the highest rank in the navy of the United 
States, and commander of the squadron now visiting your imperial majesty's 
dominions. 

I have directed Commodore Perry to assure your imperial majesty that 
I entertain the kindest feelings towards your majesty's person and govern- 
ment, and that I have no other object in sending him to Japan hut to pro- 
pose to your imperial majesty that the United States and Japan should live 
in friendship and have commercial intercourse with each other. 

The Constitution and laws of the United States forbid all interference 
with the religious or political concerns of other nations. I have particularly 
charged Commodore Perry to abstain from every act which could possibly 
disturb the tranquillity of your imperial majesty's dominions. 

The United States of America reach from ocean to ocean, and our 
Territory of Oregon and State of California lie directly opposite to the 
dominions of your imperial majesty. Our steamships can go from Califor- 
nia to Japan in eighteen days. 

Our great State of California produces about sixty millions of dollars in 
gold every year, besides silver, quicksilver, precious stones, and many other 
valuable articles. Japan is also a rich and fertile country, and produces 
many very valuable articles. Your imperial majesty's subjects are skilled 
in many of the arts. I am desirous that our two countries should trade with 
each other, for the benefit both of Japan and the United States. 

We know that the ancient laws of your imperial majesty's government 
do not allow of foreign trade, except with the Chinese and the Dutch ; but 
as the state of the world changes and new governments are formed, it seems 
to be wise^ from time to time, to make new laws. There was a time when 
the ancient laws of your imperial majesty's government were first made. 

About the same time America, which is sometimes called the New 
World, was first discovered and settled by the Europeans. For a long time 
there were but a few people, and they were poor. They have now become 
quite numerous; their commerce is very extensive; and they think that 
if your imperial majesty were so far to change the ancient laws as to allow 
a free trade between the two countries it would be extremely beneficial to 
both. 

If your imperial majesty is not satisfied that it would be safe altogether 
to abrogate the ancient laws which forbid foreign trade, they might be 
suspended for five or ten years, so as to try the experiment. If it does not 
prove as beneficial as was hoped, the ancient laws can be restored. The 
United States often limit their treaties with foreign States to a few years, 
and then renew them or not, as they please. 

I have directed Commodore Perry to mention another thing to your 
imperial majesty. Many of our ships pass every year from California to 
China ; and great numbers of our people pursue the whale fishery near the 



298 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

shores of Japaji. It sometimes happens, in stormy weather, that one of oui 
ships is wrecked on your imperial majesty's shores. In all such cases we 
ask, and expect, that our unfortunate people should be treated with kindness, 
and that their property should be protected, till we can send a vessel and 
bring them away. We are very much in earnest in this. , 

Commodore Perry is also directed by me to represent to your imperial 
majesty that we understand there is a great abundance of coal and pro- 
visions in the Empire of Japan. Our steamships, in crossing the great 
ocean, burn a great deal of coal, and it is not convenient to bring it all the 
way from America. We wish that our steamships and other vessels should 
be allowed to stop in Japan and supply themselves with coal, provisions, and 
water. They will pay for them in money, or anything else your imperial 
majesty's subjects may prefer ; and we request your imperial majesty to 
appoint a convenient port, in the southern part of the Empire, where our 
vessels may stop for this purpose. We are very desirous of this. 

These are the only objects for which I have sent Commodore Perry, 
with a powerful squadron, to pay a visit to your imperial majesty's renowned 
city of Yedo : friendship, commerce, a supply of coal and provisions, and 
protection for our shipwrecked people. 

We have directed Commodore Perry to beg your imperial majesty's 
acceptance of a few presents. They are of no great value in themselves ; 
but some of them may serve as specimens of the articles manufactured in 
the United States, and they are intended as tokens of our sincere and respect- 
ful friendship. 

May the Almighty have your imperial majesty in His great and holy 
keeping ! 

In witness whereof, I have caused the great seal of the United States to 
be hereunto affixed, and have subscribed the same with my name, at the 
city of Washington, in America, the seat of my government, on the thir- 
teenth day of the month of November, in the year one thousand eight 
hundred and fifty-two. 
[ Seal attached.] Your good friend, 

MILLARD FILLMOKE. 

By the President : 

EDWARD EVERETT, 

Secretary of State, 



LETTER. 299 



Commodore Perry to the Emperor. 

United States Steam Frigate Susquehanna, 

Off the coast of Japan^ July *?, 1853. 
The undersigned, commander-in-cliief of all the naval forces of the 
United States of America stationed in the East India, China and Japan 
seas, has been sent by his government to this country on a friendly mission, 
with ample powers to negotiate with the government of Japan, touching cer- 
tain matters which have been fully set forth in the letter of the President of 
the United States, copies of which, together with copies of the letter of cre- 
dence of the undersigned, in the English, Dutch, and Chinese languages, are 
herewith transmitted. 

The original of the President's letter, and of the letter of credence, 
prepared in a manner suited to the exalted station of your imperial majesty, 
will be presented by the undersigned in person, when it may please your 
majesty to appoint a day for his reception. 

The undersigned has been commanded to state that the President enter- 
tains the most friendly feelings toward Japan, but has been surprised and 
grieved to learn that when any of the people of the United States go, of their 
own accord, or are thrown by the perils of the sea, within the dominions of 
your imperial majesty, they are treated as if they were your worst enemies 
The undersigned refers to the cases of the American ships Morrison, 
Lagoda, and Lawrence. 

With the Americans, as indeed with all Christian people, it is considered 
a sacred duty to receive with kindness, and to succor and protect all, of 
whatever nation, who may be cast upon their shores, and such has been the 
course of the Americans with respect to all Japanese subjects who have 
fpillen under their protection. 

The government of the United States desires to obtain from that of 
Japan some positive assurance that persons who may hereafter be ship- 
wrecked on the coast of Japan, or driven by stress of weather into her 
ports, shall be treated with humanity. 

The undersigned is commanded to explain to the Japanese that the United 
States are connected with no government in Europe, and that their laws do 
not interfere with the religion of their own citizens, much less with that of 
other nations. 

That they inhabit a great country which lies directly between Japan and 
Europe, and which was discovered by the nations of Europe about the same 
time that Japan herself was first visited by Europeans; that the portion of 
the American continent lying nearest to Europe was first settled by emi- 
grants from that part of the world ; that its population has rapidly spread 
through the country, until it has reached the shores of the Pacific Ocean ; 



300 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

that we have now large cities, from which, with the aid of steam-vessels, we 
can reach Japan in eighteen or twenty days ; that our commerce with all 
this region of the globe is rapidly increasing, and the Japan seas will soon 
be covered with our vessels. 

Therefore, as the United States and Japan are becoming every day nearer 
and nearer to each other, the President desires to live in peace and friend- 
ship with your imperial majesty, but no friendship can long exist, unless 
Japan ceases to act toward Americans as if they were her enemies. 

However wise this policy may originally have been, it is unwise and im- 
practicable now that the intercourse between the two countries is so much 
more easy and rapid than it formally was. 

The undersigned holds out all these arguments in the hope that the 
Japanese government will see the necessity of averting unfriendly collision 
between the two nations, by responding favorably to the propositions of 
amity, which are now made in all sincerity. 

Many of the large ships-of-war destined to visit Japan have not yet 
arrived in these seas, though they are hourly expected ; and the undersigned, 
as an evidence of his friendly intentions, has brought but four of the 
smaller ones, designing, should it become necessary, to return to Yedo in 
the ensuing spring with a much larger force. 

But it is expected that the government of your imperial majesty will 
render such return unnecessary, by acceding at once to the very reasonable 
and pacific overtures contained in the President's letter, and which will be 
further explained by the undersigned on the first fitting occasion. 

With the most profound respect for your imperial majesty, and enter- 
taining a sincere hope that you may long live to enjoy health and happiness, 
the undersigned subscribes himself, M. C. PERKY, 

Commander-in-chief of the United States Naval Forces 

in the Fast India, China, and Japan seas* • 

To His Imperial Majesty, 

the Emperor of Japan. 



Commodore Perry to the Emperor. 

"United States Steam Frigate Susquehanna, 

" Uraga, Yedo Bay, July 14, 18«3. 
" It having been represented to the undersigned that the propositions sub- 
mitted through him to the government of Japan are of so much importance, 
and involve so many momentous questions, that much time will be required 
to deliberate and decide upon their several bearings : 

" The undersigned, in consideration thereof, declares himself willing to 

* It should be remarked that the Commodore framed this letter on his letter of instnic- 
tions from the authorities of the United States. 



commodore's letter of credence. 301 

await a reply to these propositions until his return to Yedo Bay in the en- 
suing spring, when he confidently hopes that all matters will he amicably 
arranged, and to the satisfaction ot the two nations. 

" With profound respect, « M. C. PERRY, 

" Commander-in-chief of the United States Naval Forces 

" in the East India^ China, and Japan seas. 
"To His Imperial Majesty, 

" the Emperor of Japan^ 



Letter of Credence to Commodore Perry, 
h 

IMPERIAL MAJESTY THE EMPEROR OF JAPAN. 

Reposing special trust and confidence in the integrity, prudence, and 
ability of Matthew C. Perry, a captain in the navy of the United States, I 
have invested him with full power, for and in the name of the said United 
States, to meet and confer with any person or persons furnished with like 
powers on the part of your imperial majesty, and with him or them to negoti- 
ate, conclude, and sign a convention or conventions, treaty or treaties, of and 
concerning the friendship, commerce, and navigation of the two countries ; 
and all matters and subjects connected therewith which may be interesting 
to the two nations, submitting the same to the President of the United 
States for his final ratification, by and with the advice and consent of the 
Senate of the United States. 

In testimony whereof, I have caused the seal of the United States to be 
hereunto affixed. 

Given under my hand, at the city of Washington, the thirteenth day of 
November, in the year one thousand eight hundred and fifty-two^ and of the 
independence of the United States of America the seventy-seventh. 

MILLARD FILLMORE. 

By the President : 

EDWARD EVERETT, 
[Seal attached.] Secretary of State. 

Accompanying the letters were translations of the same into the Chinese 
and Dutch languages. After the documents had been laid upon the lid of 
the imperial box, made as their receptacle, Mr. Portman, Dutch interpreter, 
by the Commodore's direction, indicated to Tatznoske, the Japanese inter- 
preter, the characters of the various documents, upon which Tatznoske and 
Keyama Yezaiman, still kneeling, both bowed their heads. The latter, now 
rising, approached the Prince of Iwami, and prostrating himself on his 



302 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

knees before him, received from his hands a roll of papers, with which he 

crossed over to the Commodore, and again falling upon his knees, delivered 

it to him. The Dutch interpreter now asked " what those papers were ? " 

to which it was answered, " they are the imperial receipt." The translation S 

of it is as follows: 

h 
[Translation of receipt given by the Princes of Idzu and Iwami to Commodore Perry.] 

" The letter of the President of the United States of North America, 
and copy, are hereby received and delivered to the Emperor. Many times 
it has been communicated that business relating to foreign countries cannot 
be transacted here in Uraga, but in Nagasaki. Now it has been observed 
that the Admiral, in his quality of ambassador of the President, would be 
insulted by it ; the justice of this has been acknowledged ; consequently, the 
above mentioned letter is hereby received, in opposition to the Japanese 
law. 

" Because the place is not designed to treat of anything from foreigners, 
so neither can conference nor entertainment take place. The letter being 
received you will leave here. 

[Here follow fac-similes of Signatures in Japanese.] 

" The ninth of the sixth month." 

The above is a literal translation from the Dutch, in which language the 
conferences were held, and into which the receipt of the chief counsellors, 
the princes of Idzu and Iwami, was, doubtless, badly translated from the 
Japanese by their interpreter. 

The following would probably be the correct translation from the 
Japanese : 

"The letter of the President of the United States of North America, 
and copy, are hereby received, and will be delivered to the Emperor. 

" It has been many times intimated that business relating to foreign 
countries cannot be transacted here in Uraga, but at Nagasaki ; nevertheless, 
as it has been observed that the Admiral, in his quality of ambassador of 
the President, would feel himself insulted by a refusal to receive the letter 
at this place, the justice of which has been acknowledged, the above men- 
tioned letter is hereby received, in opposition to the Japanese law. 

" As this is not a place wherein to negotiate with foreigners, so neither 
can conferences nor entertainment be held. Therefore, as the letter has 
been received you can depart." 

After a silence of some few minutes, the Commodore directed his inter- 
preters to inform the Japanese that he would leave, with the squadron, for 
Lew Chew and Canton in two or three days, and to offer to the government 
his services, if it wished to send any despatches or messages to those places. 
The Commodore also stated that it was his intention to return to Japan in 



RETURN TO THE SHIPS. 303 

the approaching spring, perhaps in April or May. Tatznoske then asked the 
Dutch interpreter to repeat what he had said about the Commodore's leaving 
and returning, which he did, using the same words as before. Then the 
question was asked " whether the Commodore would return with all four 
vessels ? " '* All of them," answered the Commodore, " and probably more, 
as these are only a portion of the squadron." Allusion had been made to 
the revolution in China, and the interpreter asked its cause, without how- 
ever translating to the Japanese princes, to which the Commodore dictated 
the reply, that " it was on account of the government." 

Yezaiman and Tatznoske now bowed, and, rising from their knees, drew 
the fastenings around the scarlet box, and informing the Commodore's inter- 
preter that there was nothing more to be done, passed out of the apartment, 
bowing to those on either side as they went.. The Commodore now rose to 
take leave, and, as he departed, the two princes, still preserving absolute 
silence, also arose and stood until the strangers had passed from their 
presence. 

The Commodore and his suite were detained a short time at the entrance 
of the building waiting for their barge, whereupon Yezaiman and his inter- 
preter returned and asked some of the party what they were waiting for ; to 
which they received the reply, " For the Commodore's boat." Nothing 
further was said. The whole interview had not occupied more than from 
twenty to thirty minutes, and had been conducted with the greatest formality, 
though with the most perfect courtesy in every respect. 

The procession re-formed as before, and the Commodore was escorted to 
his barge, and, embarking, was rowed off towards his ship, followed by the 
other American and the two Japanese boats which contained the governor 
of Uraga and his attendants, the bands meanwhile playing our national airs 
with great spirit as the boats pulled off to the ships. While there was some 
little delay in embarking all the party, in consequence of the smallness of 
the landing place, which was now flanked by some sixty or seventy Japanese 
government boats, the soldiers took occasion to crowd in from various parts, 
of the shore, either to satisfy their curiosity, or to show a more formidable 
front ; and it must be confessed that, had such been the disposition of the 
Japanese, there would have been no difficulty, with their large force, in com- 
pletely hemming in the Americans. 




CHAPTER XIV. 



Concessions of the Japanese. — ^Relaxation of their restrictive laws. — Satisfaction of both Japanese and 
Americans at the result of the visit on shore and delivery of the President's letter.— Visit of Keyama 
Yezaimen to the ships. — Impudence of the interpreter Saboroske. — The squadron goes farther lip the 
bay toward the capital. — Policy of this movement. — Alarm of the Japanese gradually quieted. — Beau- 
tiful scenery up the bay. — Survey of the bay continued. — Conviviality on board. — Surveying boats 
enter a small river. — Cordial greeting of the inhabitants. — Crowd dispersed by a Japanese official. — 
Commodore transfers his pennant from the Susquehanna to the Mississippi. — The last-named vessel 
goes up in sight of the shipping place of Yedo. — Sinagawa. — Yedo about ten miles distant from the 
point where the ships turned about. — Good depth of water in Yedo bay, probably almost up to the 
city.— The bay pretty thoroughly explored and sounded by the surveying parties. — Interchange of 
presents with the Japanese officers. — Avowed sorrow of Japanese officials on bidding farewell to the 
Americans. — Commodore's reasons for not waiting for a reply to the President's letter. — Leaves Yedo 
bay declaring his intention to return in the ensuing spring. — The Saratoga sent to Shanghai to look 
after American interests. — The Plymouth ordered to Lew Chew. — Oho-sima. — Ships encounter a 
Btorm. — General results of the first visit of the squadron to the bay of Yedo. 



HE Commodore had, pre- 
vious to setting out on the 
expedition ashore, placed his 
two steamers in such a posi- 
tion as to command the lit- 
tle bay, and had given orders 
that the decks should be 
cleared and everything made 
ready for action. Howit- 
zers were placed in boats 
alongside, in readiness to be 
despatched at a moment's 
notice, in case any trouble 
should occur on land, and 
the ship's guns were prepared to send their balls and shells in showers upon 
all the line of Japanese troops which thronged the shore, had they com- 
menced hostilities. There was, however, no serious apprehension felt of 
any warlike termination to the ceremonies of the day, although every pre- 
caution was properly taken to provide against the least untoward occurrence- 




JAPANESE CONCESSIONS. 305 

When the reception was over, there was a general feeling of satisfaction on 
the part of every man in the squadron at the successful result. Judged by 
the ordinary relations of civilized nations, there was not much ground for 
congratulation, but when considered in reference to the exclusive policy of 
Japan, there was every reason for a proud self-satisfaction on the part of 
each American who had shared in the event of the day. 

The justice of the Commodore's demand to be received as befitted the 
envoy of a great nation, was acknowledged in the remarkable document 
received from the imperial government, and confirmed in the most impressive 
manner by the proceedings of the day, when two of the chief princes of the 
Empire, acting as the immediate representatives of the highest authority, 
had so far raised the iron-like mask of Japanese reserve as to show them- 
selves face to face to the Americans, and receive from the hands of an 
American ambassador an urgent invitation to share in the comity of nations. 
" As it has been observed that the Admiral, in his quality of ambassador of 
the President, would feel himself insulted by a refusal to receive the letter 
at this place, the justice of which has been acknowledged, the above men- 
tioned letter is hereby received in opposition to the Japanese laws." Such 
are the remarkable words of the Japanese document, and thus, in this 
striking phrase, " in opposition to the Japanese laws^^^ has Japan herself 
emphatically recorded the American triumph, as she has, perhaps, foretold 
her own regeneration. The vigorous grasp of the hand of America which 
was proffered in a friendly spirit, but thrust forward with an energy that 
proved the power to strike, as well as the disposition to embrace, had 
stirred Japanese isolation into a sensibility of its relationship to the rest of 
the world. Japan had broken its own code of selfish exclusiveness to obey 
the universal law of hospitality. 

The concession to the demands of the Commodore, though great for the 
Japanese, was yet very far from all that was to be reasonably demanded on 
the score of the usual comity of nations. The communication from the 
government of Japai^ remarkable as it was for its breaking through the Ja- 
panese law of exclusion, was still marked with traces of their restrictive 
policy, and contained these words : " Therefore, as the letter has been re- 
ceived, you can depart." The Commodore, to show how little he regarded 
the order of the princes to depart, had no sooner reached the ship, after the 
interview on shore, than he ordered the whole squadron to get under way. 
This was not to leave the bay, as the princes doubtless expected, but to go 
higher up. The Commodore determined to examine the channel toward 
Yedo, being satisfied that the employment of so large a force in surveying 
service, and in so near a neighborhood to the capital, would produce a deci- 
ded influence upon the pride and conceit of the government, and cause a 
more favorable consideration of the President's letter. 

The governor of Uraga, Yezaimen, and Saboroske, with the interpreters, 
20 



306 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

had accompanied the party on the return to the ships, and, on going on 
board of the Susquehanna, were received by the captains and the Commo- 
dore's aid in the upper cabin, where the following conversation ensued : 

Yezaimen. We are happy to state that everything has passed off well 
and favorably. 

Cajptai7i Buchanan. We hope that Japan and the United States will 
always be friends. 

Yezaimen. When do you intend to go away ? 

Ca^t B. In the course of two or three days. The Commodore is 
going to take a sail up the bay to see the anchorage. He does not like his 
first place of anchorage. 

Yezaimen. Will you anchor there ? 

Cajpt. B. Only for two or three days, until we get ready to go to sea. 

Yezaimen. We desire to take leave officially to-day, that it may not 
be necessary for us to return before you go. 

Capt. B. We hope to have the pleasure of seeing you again before 
many months. Commodore Perry did not bring this time with him the 
presents intended for the Emperor of Japan, but when he comes again he 
will bring them. Among them is a steam engine or locomotive, for rail- 
roads. 

Lieut Contee. There is also among them a telegraph long enough to 
reach from Uraga to Yedo, by means of which you can speak from one 
place to another in a single second. 

Yezaimen. How many miles can you make in an hour with your steam 
engine ? 

Lieut. G. Eight Japanese or thirteen American miles, with steam only 
and without wind. In the United States, there are some very light 
steamers on the river which can go eighteen miles an hour. 

Yezaimen. Where were steamers first invented ? 

Lieut C. In America : an American named Fulton first invented them 
in Ne^v York. 

Yezaimen having been urged to remain and observe the engine in mo- 
tion, his curiosity prompted him to do so, and his boat and that of Sab- 
oroske being taken in tow, these two officials and their interpreters, while 
the anchors were weighing and the steamers were proceeding to their old 
anchorage, partook freely of the hospitalities of the officers, and busied 
themselves in gratifying their natural desire of seeing all that was to be seen 
on board the ship. 

These Japanese officials, evincing as they always did a certain reserved 
curiosity, yet showed an intelligent interest in the structure of the steamer 
and all that pertained to its appointments. While the engines were in mo- 
tion they minutely inspected every part, but exhibited no fear, nor any of 
that startled surprise that would be expected of those who were entirely 



SQUADRON ASCENDS THE BAT. 307 

ignorant of their mechanism. They seemed to acquire rapidly some insight 
into the nature of steam, and into the mode by which it was applied to 
put into action the great engine and move by its power the wheels of the 
steamers. Their questions were of the most intelligent character, and they 
asked again by whom steamers were first discovered, and to what speed they 
could be propelled through the water. They examined with marked inter- 
est various engravings which were shown them of American river and sea 
steam vessels, and also some views of New York, New Orleans, and San 
Francisco, which happened to be on board. Yezaimen having observed the 
revolvers in the belts of some of the Ai^aerican officers, expressed a desire 
to examine the construction and see one let off. His curiosity was accord- 
ingly gratified by one of the captains, who fired off a revolver from the 
quarter deck, and he watched the repeated discharges of the six barrels 
with very evident astonishment but no alarm. 

There was a marked contrast observed between the bearing of the two 
officials. While Yezaimen always exhibited a modest reserve of manner, 
Saboroske was bold and pushing. The former evinced an intelligent curios- 
ity, but the latter showed an importunate inquisitiveness. Yezaimen was 
always the quiet, courteous, and reserved gentleman, but Saboroske was per- 
petually bustling, rude, and intrusive. The latter was continually peering 
his bold and impudent face into every nook and corner, whether invited or 
not, and appeared more desirous of acting the spy than of gratifying the in- 
terest of a liberal curiosity. 

A shrill blast of the steam whistle now announced the arrival of the 
steamers off Uraga, and startled the Japanese to their feet, as the time of 
their departure had arrived. The engines were stopped for a few minutes 
while the Japanese boats were brought alongside from the stern, where they 
had been in tow. Yezaimen and his party were evidently disappointed that 
their visit was brought so soon to a close, and expressed some reluctance at 
leaving before they had fully gratified their curiosity. 

The whole squadron now got in position, the steamers having been 
joined by the two sloops-of-war, the Plymouth and Saratoga, and all four 
ships presented a formidable array as they stood off in a line abreast of each 
other and advanced with running lines of soundings up the bay. The 
course was now directed toward the eastern shore, leaving on the west the 
promontory of Uraga and a beautiful bay beyond, which disclosed to the 
view its surrounding hills of the richest verdure with numerous villages at 
their base, as the squadron moved along in a diagonal line. 

As the land on the west was approached to within three miles, it was 
seen to rise gradually from the undulating slopes, near the waters of the 
bay, to steep mountains in the distance. Fertile fields, expanding parks, 
bounded with plantations, and varied here and there with carefully arranged 
clumps of trees of advanced but vigorous growth, terraces lifting their 



308 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

smooth surfaces one above the other, in the richest and greenest of verdure, 
and retired groves of deep shade, showed upon the acclivities of the nearer 
range of hills all the marks of a long and most perfect cultivation, and pre- 
sented a beauty of landscape unrivalled even by the garden-like scenery of 
England when clothed in the fresh charms of a verdant spring. The dis- 
tant hills were rugged and bare, and apparently without cultivation, but 
gave, by their contrasting barrenness and rudeness of aspect, a heightened 
beauty to the rich culture of the land which gradually undulated from their 
base to the waters of the bay. As the squadron advanced toward the 
north the shore became more level, and a stretch of sand was observed to 
extend for three or four miles into the bay, and to arise near its termina- 
tion into two considerable elevations, upon which forts with ten guns each 
were erected, and there the Japanese troops had been seen to gather. 

The ships now directed their course toward the proposed place for an- 
choring, which had been surveyed by Lieutenant Bent on the previous sur- 
veying expedition. Keeping in view a bold headland, which bounded the 
upper part of the bay, to which the squadron was tending, the ships steered 
toward the western shore, and finally dropped their anchors in the afternoon 
in a place which the Commodore then named the American Anchorage. 
This was about ten miles distant from the first anchorage off Uraga, and a 
mile and a half from the shore, in a depth of water which gave full thirteen 
fathoms. Within the bay in which the ships were anchored were two beau- 
tiful islands, covered with a green growth of herbage and scattered groves. 
The coast which bounded the anchorage was composed of a succession of 
steep cliffs of white rock, the summits of which were covered with a fertile 
soil, which produced a rich vegetation that hung over from above in heavy 
festoons of green shrubbery and trailing vines and plants, while the sea had 
washed the base of the cliffs here and there into caverns where the water 
flowed in and out. The headland at the north was about six miles distant 
and descended in green slopes to the bay, and from the thick growth of 
trees which covered them a white smoke was observed to wind through the 
close foliage, and was supposed to indicate the presence of some encampment. 
A great number of the usual government boats, distinguished by red ban- 
ners, lined a long stretch of the shore of nearly a mile in length, and 
the fortresses had extended their usual cotton cloth batteries or screens, 
which were now, on longer experience, supposed to be rather military em- 
blems, like the flag and banners, than sham exhibitions of force and in- 
tended evidences of hostility. 

Immediately on anchoring the Commodore ordered the boats out upon a 
surveying expedition, and although this seemed to bring out the soldiers in 
numbers about the battery which lay opposite to the ships, as well as some 
of the government boats which were moored along the shore, there was no 
direct interference with the surveying party. The Japanese boats, how- 



ALARM OF JAPANESE OFFICIALS. 309 

ever, moved "backward and forward, as if watching tlie movement of the 
ship's cutters, but seemed indisposed to do more than show themselves in 
force and on the alert. Soon, however, Yezaimen and his interpreters were 
seen to approach the Susquehanna, in their usual boat, which the Japanese 
oarsmen were sculling with all their might, and at once dashed up alongside 
the steamer. Yezaimen and his companions hurried up the companion way, 
and were evidently much ruffled, and in a state of great anxiety. They 
were at once ushered into the cabin, where they were received as usual by 
the captains, who were coolly prepared to listen to what they had to say. 
Tatznoske at once burst out with the question, " Why do your ships anchor 
here ? " He was answered that, as they had been already informed by the 
Commodore, the ships had advanced up the bay in order to obtain a more 
secure anchorage. The interpreter then stated that that part of the Japan- 
ese waters had always been hitherto respected by strangers, and that the 
squadron must not go any further. He then asked whether the Commodore 
intended to go beyond, and if not, how long he intended to remain where he 
then was ? He was told that the Commodore intended to remain three or 
four days longer for the purpose of finding out a good anchorage, as he was 
to return in the ensuing spring with many more ships and men, and that it 
was desirable that the most secure place should be found for mooring his ves- 
sels, and that for this purpose it was necessary to survey the bay. Uraga 
had been tried, but it was found insecure, as the water was rough, and the 
winds occasionally blew there with great force. Upon the interpreter, Tatz- 
noske, asserting that the Commodore had promised to leave the bay immedi- 
ately on the reception of the President's letter by the princes, he was re- 
minded that the Commodore had only promised to leave the shore, but had 
distinctly stated that it was his intention to advance further up the bay with 
the ships. The interpreter continued, by declaring that if the surveying 
boats should approach any nearer to the land there would be trouble, 
as the people were already under considerable excitement from observing 
the close neighborhood of the strangers. He was then told that there was 
no need for any anxiety, as the boats should not land, and the Americans 
would not interfere with the Japanese unless they were first disturbed by 
them. Yezaimen still persisted through his interpreters upon the squadron 
leaving, and courteously expressed his assurance that the Japanese govern- 
ment was favorably disposed toward the Americans, and that as the Presi- 
dent's letter had been received it would undoubtedly be considered with a 
favorable disposition. He concluded by expressing the hope, that on the 
next visit of the Commodore he would not advnnce any further up the bay 
than Uraga, as that place offered every convenience for the proposed negoti- 
ation. Yezaimen was now assured that the Americans came as friends, and 
that therefore it was quite unreasonable that any opposition should be made 
to their ships seeking a suitable anchorage. They were, moreover, told that 



310 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

it was the custom in the United States to afford every facility to foreigners 
in that respect, and that if the Japanese came to the United States they 
would find the navigable waters of the country free to them, and that they 
would not he debarred even from the rich gold fields of California. 

Yezaimen had nothing more to say, and, whether persuaded or not, had 
the courtesy to refrain from pushing his demands any further. He and his 
companions, upon being invited to partake of some refreshments, readily 
complied, and were soon engaged in discussing with a vigorous appetite the 
collation that was spread before them. Another government boat was at 
this juncture announced as being alongside, when immediately the Japanese 
officials who were on board of it were invited to share in the hospitalities of 
the cabin. Quite a convivial scene ensued, in the course of which abundant / 
supplies of ham, ship's biscuit, and other stores, washed down by plentiful 
draughts of whiskey, quickly disappeared. The cheer seemed to be much 
relished, and the interpreters were so exceedingly delighted, that they de- 
sired to bear away some substantial mementos of the pleasant feast, and, ac- 
cordingly, not satisfied with well-filled paunches, they carried off in their 
capacious sleeves pieces of the bread and ham, wherewith to refresh their 
memories and their future appetites. As the night approached, the Japan- 
ese took their departure, full of courteous expressions of satisfaction at the 
hospitality of the ships. 
\ The following morning (July 15th) a surveying party was again, at a 
' very early hour, dispatched by the Commodore to sound further up the bay. 
Three of the boats pulled round to the other side of the battery which shut 
' out a part of the country inland from the view of those on board ship. 
Here they found an inlet and a beautiful surrounding country watered by a 
stream, upon the fertile borders of which were grouped a great number of 
picturesque Japanese villages, while fertile fields and highly cultivated gar- 
dens stretched out beyond them. The officers ordered their boats up the 
river, and were met as they advanced by crowds of the inhabitants, gather- 
ing upon the shores to satisfy their curiosity in a look at the strangers. 
Some of the people greeted the boats with every indication of welcome, 
and readily supplied those on board with water and some excellent 
peaches. There were a few government boats lying near, and the officers on 
board gladly welcomed our people to a visit, in the course of which such a 
mutual friendliness sprung up that the Americans joined the Japanese in a 
social pipe or two of tobacco. Our officers, in return for their hospitable 
entertainment, amused their newly-found hosts with an exhibition of their 
revolvers, and fired them off, to the intense surprise and delight of the Ja- 
panese. In the midst of this enjoyment of social intercourse, where the 
greatest harmony prevailed, and in which the Japanese seemed remarkably 
genial in manner and expansive in hospitality, down came some severe offi- 



FURTHEK PROGRESS UP THE BAT. 311 

cial, and beckoned off his countrymen, who rapidly scattered away, like so 
many children caught in the very act of some awful disobedience. 

On the return of the ships' boats from sounding, all the officers and men 
were in raptures with the kindly disposition of the Japanese and the beauty 
of their country. In fact, nothing could be more picturesque than the 
landscapes wherever the eye was directed, and even those on board ship 
never tired of looking at the surrounding shores. The high cultivation of 
the land everywhere, the deep, rich green of all the vegetation, the innu- 
merable thrifty villages embowered in groves of trees at the heads of the in- 
lets which broke the uniformity of the bay, and the rivulets flowing down the 
green slopes of the hills and calmly winding through the meadows, combined 
to present a scene of beauty, abundance, and happiness, which every one de- 
lighted to contemplate. 

In the course of the afternoon the Commodore transferred his pennant 
from the Susquehanna to the Mississippi. He then proceeded some ten miles 
further up the bay toward Yedo, and reached a point estimated to be distant 
twenty miles from the anchorage at Uraga. The port or shipping place of 
Yedo was distinctly seen on the southern side of the capital, but not the 
capital itself, which, being composed of low houses, like those of China, was 
completely hidden behind a projecting point, beyond which the bay took 
an easterly direction, and was bounded by a shore of low alluvial land. 
The town observed was probably Sinagawa, a suburb of Yedo. On the 
western side of the bay a view was obtained of Kanagawa and Konazaki, 
two populous places. Some four miles beyond the extreme point reached 
by the Mississippi there was a cape formed by a projecting point of land, 
and marked by a white tower, which resembled in appearance a light-house ; 
it was some three or four miles still further where the shipping and sup- 
posed port of Yedo appeared to the view. The Commodore thus supposed 
that he had taken his ship within ten miles of Yedo, and as the lead gave 
twenty fathoms where he put about, he concluded that he could readily have 
gone still higher up. He was apprehensive, however, of causing too much 
alarm, and thus throwing some obstacle in the way of a favoradle reception 
at court of the President's letter, that had only been delivered the day be- 
fore, and which was probably then under consideration. The Commodore 
thus thinking that he had done enough, without going further, caused the 
ship to rejoin the squadron at the " American Anchorage." 

During the passage of the Mississippi, there was no show of opposition 
to her movements, although there was a considerable display of troops about 
the batteries, loosely grouped, as if gathered for curiosity and not for mar- 
tial manifestation, and an occasional government boat put out from the shore 
with the apparent design of watching the steamer. While the Commodore 
was absent on his expedition up the bay, Yezaimen and his interpreters came 
alongside the Susquehanna, bringing some boxes containing presents, but 



312 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

neither they nor their presents were received, as the Commodore had given 
orders that no one from the shore should be admitted on board the ship 
without his special permission. Upon being told this, the Japanese first 
expressed a wish to wait, but finally pushed ofi", saying that they would return 
another time. All the boats which could be spared from the several ships, 
amounting to twelve, were busily engaged during the whole day in surveying 
the western shore of the bay above Uraga. 

At daylight next morning (Saturday,) 16th July the ships were moved 
to a bay about five miles from Uraga, which the Commodore named " Sus- 
quehanna Bay," and in the survey of which the boats were kept diligently 
occupied, and without interference, or, in fact, any expressed objection. 
The squadron was now anchored much closer to the shore than before, at a 
distance of less than a mile, and from the ship's deck a distant view was had of 
the land on the west, which was singularly green with vegetation and beauti- 
ful in aspect. The present anchorage was completely land-locked. On one 
side was the charming little island, named " Perry Island " by Lieutenant 
Bent, who was in command of the surveying party whioh first examined its 
neighboring waters. Out of the trees which grew to the summit of the 
rising land peered, with a suspicious look, a Japanese battery. Below, some 
miles to the south, the promontory which extends out into the bay beyond 
Uraga closed in the ships which were moored so far under the cover of its 
lofty flank, that the view of the eastern shore for a considerable extent was 
entirely blotted out. Two villages, of the name of Orsa and Torigasaki, 
nestled among the trees within the curve of the bay, and presented to the 
eye a charming aspect of repose and rural delight. 

Yezaimen, the governor of Uraga, was again alongside the Susquehanna 
before she had anchored. He came to renew his assurance of the favorable 
reception of the President's letter, and as nothing was said now of sending 
the answer to Nagasaki, it seemed that the nearer the Commodore ap- 
proached the imperial city of the Ja][anese the more conciliating and 
friendly they became. The governor had brought with him some presents, 
consisting of some pieces of silk, some fans, lacquered tea-cups and tobacco 
pipes. These objects were interesting as specimens of Japanese manufac- 
ture, and though not very valuable, were creditable evidences of mechanical 
skill. The cups were made of a very light wood, neatly executed and beau- 
tifully polished in surface with the famous Japanese lacquer. The silks 
were of fine texture, richly interwoven with braids of gold and silver, ela- 
borately wrought into various ornamental figures. The fans were covered 
with those " dragons and chimeras dire " in which the grotesque fancy of 
Japanese art seems especially to delight, and the pipes were small and like 
what had been previously observed in use among the Lew Chewans. 

Yezaimen was informed, by the orders of the Commodore, that the presents 
which he had brought could not be received unless others from the Commo- 




m 



EXCHANGE OF PRESENTS. 313 

dore were accepted in return. To this Yezaimen at first demurred by inter- 
posing tlie invariable plea that the Japanese law forbade it. He was now 
answered that ximerican laws enjoined a reciprocity, and that his presents 
could not be otherwise received. Finding the Commodore resolute upon this, 
as upon all other points of ceremony, Yezaimen consented at last to receive 
in return whatever, with the exception of arms, there was a disposition to 
give to him. Accordingly, some few articles of more value than those 
brought by the Japanese were sent on deck ; but when Yezaimen saw them, he 
declared that they were of too much value, and that he dared not take on shore 
anything but what he and his interpreter could conceal about their persons. 
He was then informed that if he could not receive the articles openly, and 
without concealment, that those which he had brought with him would be 
put back into his boat. He then departed, carrying with him all the Com- 
modore's presents, with the exception of three swords, which he was permit- 
ted to leave. 

In the afternoon, Yezaimen and his interpreters came on board again, 
with a trifling present of some fowls in wicker cages and several boxes of 
eggs. They seemed in very good humor, as there had been no objection 
urged on shore to their retaining the presents they had received from the 
Commodore in the morning. The Commodore, on receiving the fowls and 
eggs, sent presents to the wives of the Japanese officials, as he was deter- 
mined to be under no obligation to them. Another important point had 
been gained in persuading the Japanese to consent to an exchange of pres- 
ents, a concession which had hitherto been unprecedented in all their previ- 
ous relations with foreign nations. 

Among the articles given to Yezaimen was a large box containing a va- 
riety of American seeds and some, if not equally useful, not less acceptable, 
cases of wine. The governor had showed his appreciation of the latter 
article by the gusto with which he shared in the conviviality on board, which 
marked his last visit. Yezaimen and his interpreters, Tatznoske and Tok- 
saro, evidently lingered with pleasure on board the ship, and were loth to say 
the final good-bye. Over the board which was spread to refresh and to do 
honor to them they became remarkably jovial and communicative. Yezai- 
men's disposition was naturally genial, and it became still more expansive 
in its bonhommie under the by no means restricted draughts of champagne. 
His affection towards his American friends was liberally acknowledged, and 
he confessed such a yearning for them that he declared he would not be able 
to restrain his tears on their departure. The interpreters, though less bib- 
ulous and more reserved than their superior, were evidently in a very joyous 
mood and disposed to be confidential. Tatznoske, with a knowing look, 
hinted in a low, whispering tone of voice, that the President's letter had a 
very fair chance of a satisfactory answer, and that Yezaimen had a good 



314 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

prospect of promotion from the governorsliip of Uraga to some higher grade 
of official distinction. 

The Japanese, however, were always on the alert to gain a point in di- 
plomacy, and despite their convivial freedom did not forget their official 
duties. Captain Buchanan had informed Tatznoske of the intention of the 
Commodore to leave Yedo Bay next day, whereupon that shrewd gen- 
tleman put down his glass of champagne, and showing his usual eager atten- 
tion to business, even in the midst of pleasure, asked the captain for a 
declaration in writing of what he had said in words about the squadron's 
departure. This was refused with an expression of cold reserve on the part 
of Captain Buchanan, as it would seem to imply a doubt of his word. 

The Japanese officials now prepared to depart, and finally, after express- 
ing in the most courteous terms their thanks for the treatment they had re- 
ceived, and their regret on leaving their American friends, shook all the 
officers warmly by the hand, and went bowing and smiling over the side of 
the ship into their boat. No sooner were they seated on their mats, than 
Yezaimen showed his appreciation of the present of wine by ordering one 
of the cases to be immediately opened, and taking the first bottle that came, 
impatiently knocked off its neck, and without more ado commenced imbibing 
its contents, probably desiring, with his usual courtesy, to drink a parting 
health to his American friends. His boat soon pulled out of sight behind 
the projecting promontory of Uraga, and nothing more was seen of the 
courteous Yezaimen and his worthy and learned associates Tatznoske and 
Toksaro. 

The survey of the west side of the magnificent bay having been com- 
pleted from Uraga to a point about fourteen miles below Yedo, and the 
steamer Mississippi having ascended with the boats and sounded six miles 
nearer to that capital, the Commodore believed that a sufficient knowledge 
was obtained of the navigation of the bay to conduct the man-of-war, the 
Vermont, which was to join his squadron on his next visit, to the American 
anchorage, or even higher if necessary. 

The governor of Uraga, as will have been observed, had evinced a great 
anxiety, during the several conferences on board the Susquehanna, to learn 
how long the Commodore intended to remain on the coast. On these occa- 
sions Yezaimen always took care to remark that it was the custom of the 
Japanese government to be very slow in deciding upon matters having refer- 
ence to foreign countries. In consequence of these representations, and 
knowing that the propositions contained in the President's letter were of 
such importance as to require time for deliberation, overturniEg, as they 
would, if acceded to, many of the fundamental laws of the Empire, the 
Commodore deemed it advisable not to wait for a reply. To these were 
added other reasons of importance. The Commodore had not provisions or 
water sufficient to allow of his remaining on the coast more than a month 



SQUADKON LEAVES TEDO BAY. 315 

longer, and he well knew that the Japanese authorities could easily, and 
with every apparent show of reason, defer any satisfactory reply to a period 
beyond the time when it would he absolutely necessary for him to leave. 
They would be prepared, as an excuse for delay, to allege the necessity of 
calling together and conferring with the princes of the Empire, as also of 
consulting the Dairi or Ecclesiastical Emperor, and thus the Commodore 
might be put off from day to day, and ultimately be obliged to sail without 
any satisfaction whatever. Such a result would have been construed into a 
triumph by the Japanese, and would have caused, as the Commodore be- 
lieved, a serious injury to the success of his mission. 

The Commodore, moreover, was glad to have a good excuse for waiting 
until the ensuing spring for the final answer from the Japanese government, 
because he knew that some of his ships were required to protect American 
interests on the coast of China, then somewhat endangered in consequence 
of the disturbed state of that country. He could not spare any of the 
squadron while he remained in Japan, for the vessels promised by the Navy 
Department had not yet followed him as he had expected. He was also unpre- 
pared to respond with becoming courtesy to any concession or act of friend- 
liness on the part of the Japanese government, in consequence of not hav- 
ing received the presents from the United States that were expected in the 
Vermont, and which it was essential to have ready upon the reception of 
a favorable answer to the President's letter. 

The Commodore preferred, then, to wait until the ensuing spring, when 
he would be able to concentrate his whole force, and be prepared with store 
and coal vessels, and all other conveniences for remaining an indefinite time 
to secure whatever concessions the Japanese should be disposed to make. 
His policy, though in conformity with the exigencies of his position, was at 
the same time a courteous concession to the deliberate ceremoniousness of 
Japanese diplomacy, and was crowned by the happiest result. A letter sig- 
nifying his intention to leave immediately and return the ensuing spring for 
an answer to the President's letter, had been, it will be recollected, delivered 
with that letter on the occasion of the Commodore's reception on shore. 

The squadron left the anchorage in Susquehanna Bay on Sunday morn- 
ing, (July 17.) With the steamer Susquehanna towing the Saratoga, and 
the Mississippi the Plymouth, the four vessels began their voyage and started 
away rapidly without a yard of canvas set. The morning was fine, and 
as the departure of the Americans was a great event, and the appearance 
of the four ships moving off in stately procession, succeeding each other in 
regular line, was imposing and novel to the Japanese unfamiliar with the 
power of steam, crowds of people gathered upon the land to behold the 
sight. As the promontory of Uraga was doubled the soldiers thronged out 
of the batteries, and hurrying to the loftiest summits eagerly looked at the 
passing ships. The course of the squadron was down the centre of the bay, 



316 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

and the inhabitants on both shores could, in the clearness of the day, equally 
gratify their curiosity. Many were not content with the distant view, 
and crowding into boats had pushed off in the stream in such multitudes 
that the waters were covered with many hundreds of them. 

As the squadron steamed out of the bay a parting look was obtained of 
the lofty summit of Mount Fusi, both behind and in advance ; as the ships 
took an easterly course, the mountainous coast of the province of Awa, at 
the northern entrance to the lower bay of Yedo, rose to the view. Yries' 
Island, or, as it is otherwise called, Oo-Sima, was left to the south ; and, 
though partly obscured with clouds, the convex outline of the lower part of 
its mountainous elevation could be distinctly traced. The course of the 
ships was now directed toward the south, when the various islands which ex- 
tend in a line from the mouth of the bay of Yedo were gradually ap- 
proached and observed. They mostly were marked with the usual features 
of volcanic origin, having a rounded contour, with their sunmiits rising 
into cones, their steep sides scarred with the burning currents of lava, and 
their bases surrounded with irregular shaped detached rocks. A rich vege- 
tation, as is common in such latitudes, had thrown its green mantle over the 
sides of some of the islands, which presented a striking contrast of verdant 
beauty with the bared ribs and fire-blasted surface of others. Vulcan 
Island was conspicuous among the rest with its volcanic summit and its ac- 
clivities of cooled lava. Fatsicio, the penal island of Japan, was in the dis- 
tance at the south ; but as the shades of evening gathered as the ships ap- 
preached, it was not come up with before it was too dark to obtain a good 
view. As several of the islands were not laid down in any of the charts in 
possession of the Commodore, he took the usual privilege of American and 
European discoverers and gave names to some of the chain. One was 
called, after the steamer, the Mississippi Island ; a cluster of rocks, de- 
scribed as resembling somewhat the basaltic formation of the Giant's Cause- 
way, was called after the Susquehanna ; and the other ships, tjie Plymouth 
and Saratoga, each came in for the honor of giving her name to a rock or an 
island. The whole chain was composed of a great number of islands or 
islets, as many as eight being in view at one time. They showed no marks 
of habitation ; but from their proximity to the Japanese coast they were 
probably utilised for some purpose and peopled more or less. Fatsicio, it is 
known, is used as a penal settlement, and it is probable some of the other 
islands may be forced into some service by the Japanese people, who seem 
ever on the alert to make any available use of their territory. 

On the next day, after the departure of the squadron from Yedo bay, 
the wind, which had been steadily blowing from east to E. S. E., began to 
increase with such force as made it necessary to cast off the two sloops-of- 
war, the commanders of which, having been ordered by signal to proceed 
to the duty previously assigned them, then parted company. Commander 



EESULTS OF FIRST VISIT TO YEDO. 317 

"Walker, in the Saratoga, had received written instructions from the Com- 
modore to make the best of his way to Shanghai to protect American life 
and property and to look after the general interests of the United States in 
that vicinity. Commander Kelly, in the Plymouth, was instructed to pro- 
ceed to Lew Chew, and on his way to examine the western shores of Oho- 
Sima. It was the intention of the Commodore to have surveyed the east- 
ern shores of this island, but he was prevented by the weather. 

After the Plymouth and Saratoga had been cast off, the wind gradually 
increased to a strong gale. The two steamers were now hove to on the port 
tack. The wind being at east by south, beating up an ugly sea, the Susque- 
hanna rolled very deeply, but otherwise made tolerable weather. The Mis- 
sissippi apparently was doing better, but nevertheless lost two of her boats 
during the gale. The storm did not begin to abate until the third day, 
when the Commodore continued his course, without delay, for Napha. 
During the passage to and from Yedo bay, the current set invariably with 
more or less strength, according to the wind, to the north and east, while in 
the bay of Yedo itself, the tides were regular and set up and down the 
channel opposite Uraga at the rate of two and a half knots. 

At the close of a chapter which completes the account of the first visit 
of Commodore Perry to Japan, it seems appropriate to sum up briefly the 
results of that visit. Short as was the stay of the squadron in the waters 
of the bay of Yedo, the ships having first anchored on the eighth of July 
and taken their departure on the seventeenth of the same month, no unim- 
portant results had been effected. These, to be fully appreciated, must be 
considered not absolutely in regard to their own intrinsic value, but rela- 
tively to the former policy of Japan, in its restricted intercourse with for- 
eign nations. 

During the eight days, which was the full extent of his first visit. Com- 
modore Perry had gained in behalf of his country several advantages 
hitherto denied to all other nations. It is true certain concessions had 
been made, but in a very limited degree, to the Dutch and Chinese ; and 
these, small as they were, were awarded to them at the expense, on their 
part, of the most degrading conditions. The first point conceded was the 
release of the American squadron from the perpetual presence of the 
Japanese guard-boats, which had always hitherto surrounded foreign ships, 
and placed them, as it were, under arrest during their visit. A resolute re- 
sistance was at once opposed by Commodore Perry to this degrading impo- 
sition of force upon a peaceful visitor, and, in spite of all the Japanese au- 
thorities could urge on the score of their own exclusive laws and inhospi- 
table practice, a new precedent was established in conformity with the comity 
of civilized nations. 

The second point gained was the accomplishment of the Commodore's 
predetermined intention to confer with no one but a dignitary of the highest 



318 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

rank in the Empire, and to obtain a reception in every respect honorable 
to himself and the country which he represented. This was effected with- 
out the slightest deviation on the part of the Commodore from those simple 
rules of diplomatic courtesy recognized by our institutions. For example, 
during the reception on shore, while the governor of Uraga prostrated 
himself on every occasion when he addressed the Prince of Idzu and his 
associate, the Prince of Iwami, the Commodore and his staff remained 
quietly seated, and used no more ceremony toward the Japanese princes 
than would have been proper in a similar conference with the commissioners 
of any country duly accredited. 

The survey of the bay of Yedo, in spite of the protests of the authori- 
ties, and under the very guns of their batteries, was an important advan- 
tage. It not only taught the Japanese the folly of attempting to frighten 
away the Americans by bravado and sham exhibitions of force, but has 
proved to the world, for the first time, the practicability of sailing even to 
the capital of Japan, and secured every facility for approaching it in the 
charts which have been the results of the observations of the hydrographi- 
cal department of the expedition. 

The Commodore, conscious that he was dealing with a ceremonious 
people, never lost an opportunity of symbolising, even by form and etiquette, 
his resolute determination to uphold the dignity of his mission. Thus, in 
the matter of giving and receiving presents, it was taken care that the 
invariable eastern custom should be strictly followed, and that the advan- 
tage, on the score of the value of gifts, should never be on the side of the 
Japanese. Heretofore it had been the policy of China and Japan to con- 
sider and receive all presents as so many tributes to their superior power. 
In the equal exchange carefully regarded by the Commodore, he determined 
that presents should be considered merely as a mutual interchange of 
friendly courtesy, and he accordingly never received anything without 
returning at least its equivalent. 

While the Commodore strove to impress the Japanese with a just idea 
of the power and superiority of his country, he was ever studious of exhib- 
iting the most friendly disposition in all his relations with the authorities of 
Japan, that they might understand that it was the desire of the United 
States to cultivate a kindly intercourse. Thus, on the one hand, a resolute 
determination was shown to demand a respectful hearing, and to secure at 
all hazards a protection for American citizens who might be at the mercy 
of Japan, and on the other, a courteous desire was expressed of cultivating 
a mutual trade and commerce, by which international good feeling and re- 
ciprocal interests are most securely created and safely guaranteed. The 
Japanese were reminded how closely the geographical position of their 
Empire had been brought to the United States by the new possessions on 
the Pacific, and the development of the mighty power of steam, the effec- 



POLICY PURSUED IN JAPAN. 



f 



319 



tive operation of which had been so strikingly revealed to the people of 
Japan by the appearance of the American naval steamers almost within 
gun-shot of their capital. How far this policy, which proved the power to 
compel, while it exhibited the disposition to conciliate, was successful, will 
be developed in the future pages of the narrative. 




CHAPTER XV 



Amakirima Islands. — State of feeling in Lew Chew. — Commodore''s measures for permanent arrangements 
with the authorities. — Coal depot. — Protest against espionage. — Trade in open market — Letter to the 
Eegent. — Interview with the Eegent. — Entertainment of the Commodore. — During dinner the Ke- 
gent's answer is brought. — Unsatisfactory to the Commodore. — Letter handed back to the Eegent, and 
the Commodore prepares to leave the house. — Informs the Eegent that he must have a satisfactory 
answer on the next day, otherwise he will land and take possession of the palace at Shui and retain it 
until matters are adjusted. — Probable effects of hunting up the old sedan chair on shore. — Commo- 
dore's propositions all accepted.— Coal depot built.— Yisit to the castle of Tima-Gusko.- Purchases in 
the bazaar.— Departure from Napha for China.— Plymouth left behind with orders to visit Bonin 
Islands and make further surveys. — Captain Kelly's report of the visit and surveys. — Form of govern- 
ment and constitution of the settlers on Peel Island. — General effect of this last visit to Lew Chew. — 
Arrival of the Vandalia ; of the Powhatan.— Overhauling of the vessels of the squadron at Hong 
Kong. 



HE storm which began to 
blow soon after the depart- 
ure from the bay of Yedo, 
continued for three days, 
and the two steamers rolled 
heavily, and were much 
tossed by its violence, mak- 
ing it necessary to send 
down the topmasts and se- 
cure the great guns by 
strong lashings ; they, how- 
ever, rode out the storm in 
safety, and finally arrived 
at Napha on the 25th of July. On the approach to the coast of Lew 
Chew the weather was so hazy that the land could not be discerned at any 
distance, and, night coming on, it was thought advisable for the ships to 
stand off, which they did, and were carried very much to the southward 
and westward by the current. This current, according to the generally 
received accounts, should have been setting in a contrary direction, and 
consequently the allowance for a northeast set was wrongly made. 

The atmosphere continued hazy throughout the night, and as the day 
dawned the land was still concealed from view, and it was some hours 




THIRD VISIT TO LEW CHEW. 321 

before the position of the steamers could be determined by the sight at 
last of the Amakirima Islands. At some distance from the islands a patch 
of breakers was observed, which was duly noted in the chart. The discov- 
ery of these breakers and other dangers among the Amakirima group show 
the necessity of a thorough survey of the islands lying west of Great 
Lew Chew, and a surveying expedition could not be better employed than 
in making the proper investigations. 

On coming to anchor in the harbor of Napha, at noon on Monday, 
(25th July,) the storeship Supply was found there rolling in the swell of the 
bay like a great log, and the officers stated that the gale had blown with 
great violence with them and had raged several days, while those upon the 
land declared that it had been one of the severest storms they had ever ex- 
perienced. 

Upon the Commodore's arrival at Lew Chew he lost no time in advanc- 
ing the chief purpose of his visit, and prepared at once to enter into nego- 
tiations with the authorities for obtaining from them further relaxations in 
their laws respecting strangers. Having been comparatively successful 
with the Japanese, the Commodore felt confident of gaining additional 
concessions from the Lew Chewans, and that too without resort to any act 
of unkindness, or the adoption of their policy of deceit and falsehood. 

The officers of the Supply, which vessel had been left at Napha during 
the Commodore's visit to Japan, stated that the people had evinced no 
unfriendly feeling towards them, but were still very much reserved and as 
tenacious as ever of their system of espionage. Supplies of provisions, 
however, had been regularly furnished through the agency of Dr. Bettel- 
heim, and payment had been also received through him. 

The Commodore had no time to spare, as his present visit was intended 
to be very short, and he was not disposed to be put off for a moment by the 
usual temporizing policy of the slow-moving Lew Chewans, so he demanded at 
once an interview with the regent; the demand was immediately granted, 
and a day appointed for the meeting. Previous, however, to the int'er- 
view, the Commodore had caused the regent to be made acquainted with 
the nature of the propositions, upon a favorable concession to which he had 
resolutely fixed his mind. Commander Adams was commissioned to lay 
these propositions before the mayor of Napha and some of the authorities, 
and accordingly went ashore, accompanied by Dr. Williams, the Chinese 
interpreter, bearing the following instructions from the hands of the Com- 
modore : 

" Establish rate and pay for rent of house for one year. State that I 
wish a suitable and convenient building for the storage of coal, say to hold 
six hundred tons. If they have no such building, I desire to employ 
native workmen to erect one after the fashion of the island ; or if the Lew 
Chewan government prefers, it can be done under the inspection of the 
21 



322 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

mayor, at government expense, and I will agree to pay an annual rent for 
it. Either one or the other arrangement must be made." 

" Speak about the spies, and say if they continue to follow the officers 
about, it may lead to serious consequences, and perhaps to bloodshed, which 
I should deplore, as I wish to continue on the most friendly terms with the 
authorities. That should any disturbance ensue, it will be the fault of the 
Lew Chewans, who have no right to set spies upon American citizens who 
may be pursuing their own lawful business." 

" We must have a free trade in the market, and the right to purchase 
articles for the ships." 

'' It will be wise, therefore, for the Lew Chewans to abrogate those laws 
and customs which are not suited to the present age, and which they have 
no power to enforce, and by a persistence in which they will surely involve 
themselves in trouble." 

" Let the mayor clearly understand that this port is to be one of rendez- 
vous, probably for years, and that the authorities had better come to an 
understanding at once." 

" Thank the mayor for the kind act of the authorities in putting a tomb- 
stone over the remains of the boy buried from the Susquehanna, and ask' 
the privilege of paying the cost of the same." 

" Require prompt and early replies to all these propositions and de- 
mands." 

The Commodore, in addition to these instructions by which Commander 
Adams was to be governed in his interview, sent a formal communication 
to the regent, in these words : 

" To his Excellency the Tsung-li-kwan of the kingdom of Lew Chew : 

" Sm : The commander-in-chief of the United States naval forces in the 
East India, China, and Japan seas, having returned to this port from Japan, 
is about sailing for China, and before leaving is desirous of communicating 
to his excellency the Tsung-li-kwan a few observations, having reference to 
the intercourse of persons under his command with the authorities and 
people of Lew Chew. 

" The commander-in-chief, while he thanks the officers of the Lew 
Chewan government for the services which they have already rendered in 
furnishing a few supplies to the ships of the squadron, cannot see the neces- 
sity of enforcing against strangers a system of restriction which is alto- 
gether at variance with the customs and practices of all civilized nations, 
and which cannot at the present day be recognized as just or proper. 

" The commander-in-chief is especially desirous of remaining on the 
most friendly terms with the government of Lew Chew, and of contributing 
all in his power to the prosperity and happiness of the people ; and he 
claims that the officers and men under his command shall be received on the 



INTERVIEW WITH THE REGENT. 323 

same footing as those who arrive from China and Japan ; that they shall 
have the privilege of purchasing in the market and shops whatever they 
may need, and for which they will pay the prices demanded by the sellers ; 
that the inhabitants, particularly the women and children, shall not fly from 
us as if we were their greatest enemies ; and, finally, that our officers and 
men shall not be watched and followed by low officials and spies. He 
declares that if this system of espionage is persisted in, he will on his re- 
turn to Lew Chew take the necessary steps to stop it. 

" It is repugnant to the American character to submit to such a course 
of inhospitable discourtesy, and though the citizens of the United States, 
when abroad, are always regardful of, and obedient to, the laws of the coun- 
tries in which they may happen to be, provided they are founded upon 
international courtesy, yet they never can admit of the propriety or justice 
of those of Lew Chew, which bear so injuriously upon the rights and com- 
forts of strangers resorting to the island with the most friendly and peace- 
ful intentions. 

" With the highest consideration, 

"M. C. PERRY, 
" Commander-in-chief of the United States Naval Forces, 

in the East India, China, and Japan Seas^ 

Upon Commander Adams laying the propositions of the Commodore 
before the mayor of Napha, he was told by that official that he could do 
nothing of his own accord, and was obliged to refer all the demands of the 
Americans to the Tsung-li-kwan, or regent of Lew Chew, as his own powers 
were entirely subordinate to those of that high dignitary. Captain Adams 
then told the mayor that he must inform the regent that the Commodore 
desired to have an interview with him, either the next day or the day after, 
at any hour or place he, the regent, might appoint ; and, moreover, that his 
excellency must come prepared to answer, unequivocally and without dis- 
cussion, the propositions just presented. To this the mayor replied that 
the regent would be immediately notified, and that the Commodore should 
be informed as to the time and place of meeting. 

Next morning, Lieutenant Contee, the Commodore's aid, was sent ashore 
to call upon the mayor of Napha, from whom he learned that the regent had 
appointed the ensuing day, (Friday, July 28,) and the Kung-qua at Napha, 
as the time and place for the interview. 

Accordingly, on Friday the interview came ofi", and its details are mi- 
nutely given in the following report, prepared by a subordinate officer 
appointed for that special service : 

" By previous arrangement, two o'clock, p. m., had been fixed upon as 
the hour for the interview, and the regent had sent word that he would leave 
Shui at noon. About half-past one, however, a boat came off to the Susque- 



324 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

hanna with the Pe-ching, Chang-ynen, on board, to inform the Commodore 
that everything was in readiness for his reception, and the regent already in 
waiting. The place selected for the purpose was the Kung-qua of Napha, 
which is used on all ofl&cial occasions. The Commodore went ashore at two 
o'clock, accompanied by Captain Adams, captain of the fleet. Lieutenant 
Contee, flag lieutenant, Captain Lee, of the Mississippi, Captain Kelly, of 
the Plymouth, and twelve other officers, making a staff of sixteen per- 
sons. 

" On landing he was received by a deputation of officers, headed by the 
Pe-ching, and conducted to the place of reception, which is situated on the 
main street or road leading from Napha to Shui, and about a quarter of a 
mile from the beach. It is a small but neat building, surrounded by a high 
wall, which screens it from all observation from without. The mayor of 
Napha, with some of his attendant officers, stood at the entrance, and the 
regent advanced to the door of the enclosure to receive the Commodore. 
Within the building, tables were already prepared for a collation, similar to 
that given at Shui by the former regent, though not on so extensive a 
scale. The feast was arranged in precisely the same manner, the Commodore 
and Captain Adams occupying the first table on the right hand, while the regent 
and mayor took that on the left, opposite to him. After tea had been brought, 
the regent made a complimentary remark to the Commodore, hoping that he 
had returned in good health. Ichirazichi acted as interpreter, and the con- 
versation was carried on by Mr. Williams, through the medium of the Chi- 
nese language. 

" The Commodore stated that he would leave in a few days for China, but 
should return again to Lew Chew in a few months. Before he left, how- 
ever, he wished to have a settlement of all those matters concerning which 
he had addressed them. His demands were reasonable and proper, and he 
expected that they would be complied with. The Americans were persons 
of few words, but they always meant what they said. The regent answered 
that his reply would soon be ready, and invited the Commodore, in the 
meanwhile, to partake of some refreshments. He was answered that we 
preferred business first and the refreshments afterwards. The requests 
made were fair and simple, and the Commodore was dissatisfied with any 
delay in granting them. We had been to Japan, where we had been re- 
ceived in a very friendly manner. We had exchanged presents with Japan- 
ese governors, and were on friendly terms with the Japanese. We hoped, 
now, to be on friendly terms also with the Lew Chewans. Mr. Williams 
then, at the Commodore's request, gave a brief narration of his reception by 
the princes of Idzu and Iwami, and of our exploration and survey of the bay 
of Yedo. The regent observed, in return, that his reply would be very 
soon delivered. 

" The dinner then commenced, and seven or eight of the twelve courses 



REFUSAL TO RECEIVE REGENT'S LETTER. 325 

of soups had been served, when the letter was brought in and given to the 
regent, who took it, and, accompanied by the mayor and interpreter, ad- 
vanced to the Commodore's table, where he presented it with every appear- 
ance of submission and humility. His demeanor during the dinner was 
even more constrained and impassive than on the occasion of his dining ou 
board the Susquehanna, previous to our departure for Japan. The letter 
was enclosed in an envelope, and stamped with the great seal of Lew 
Chew. Mr. Williams, at the Commodore's order, opened and read it on the 
spot. 

" It commenced by affirming the small size and poverty of the island, 
stating that Dr. Bettleheim's residence among them had given them much 
trouble, and that if we should erect a building for coal their difficulties 
would be greatly increased. Besides, they said, the temple which they had 
appropriated to our use was thereby rendered useless to them, and their 
priests were prevented from performing their worship in it. The produc- 
tions of the island were few, as they derived all of their teas, silks, cloths, and 
many other articles from Japan and China. With regard to the shops and 
markets, that was a matter that depended on the people themselves, and if 
they chose to keep their shops shut, the regent could not interfere. He 
declared, moreover, that the persons who had followed us whenever we had 
gone ashore were not spies, but officers appointed to act as guides, and to 
prevent us from being annoyed by the people. Since we had not found them 
to be of service, and objected to them, they would be directed not to follow 
us in future. 

" After the letter had been read, the Commodore ordered it to be deliv- 
ered back to the regent, stating tliat it was not at all satisfactory, and could 
not be received. We had asked, he said, for no more than is accorded to us 
in other countries — for no more than we already had in China, and expected 
to have in Japan. With regard to the temple, that they had themselves 
assigned it to our use, as they invariably had done, for those foreigners who 
had visited them previous to our arrival. We would pay them rent for it, 
and expected to pay for everything that we obtained. We had travelled 
over their island, and knew that the soil was rich, the people thrifty, and 
supplies of all sorts abun dant. As we paid for all we received, our presence 
was an advantage to the people, who found in our vessels a good market for 
their productions. If they did not wish to erect a building for coal, we 
would send a vessel with materials, and put it up ourselves. The regent 
ventured to say that there were some difficult points in the Commodore's 
communication, and they had much deliberation concerning them, before 
the reply was writteu. The Commodore reiterated what he had pre- 
viously said, that all his demands were plain and simple, and ought to be 
granted without hesitation. The Lew Chewans should be satisfied, by this 
time, that we had no intention to injure them. They had not been molested 



326 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

in any way Iby any of our men, and if they persisted in following us with 
spies hereafter he would not he answerable for the consequences. 

" The regent attempted to come forward and again present the reply ; 
but the Commodore rose and prepared to leave, declaring that if he did not 
receive satisfactory answers to all his demands by noon the next day, he would 
land two hundred men, march to Shui, and take possession of the palace 
there, and would hold it until the matter was settled. With this declaration 
he left, the regent attending him to the gateway, where he remained until all 
the officers had taken their departure. The Commodore returned to the 
beach, attended by his staff, and immediately went on board the Susquehanna." 

It will be observed that the new regent, Shang-Hiung-Hiun, was a 
great adept in the temporizing policy of his government, and was ever 
ready with a thousand crooked arguments for not giving a direct answer 
to a direct demand. 

The Commodore, however, was not to be balked of his purpose by any 
of the shams and devices of Lew Chew policy, and went straight on to the 
end proposed, without allowing himself to be diverted from a broad, honest 
course of fair dealing, into any of the bye-ways of the oriental hide-and-go- 
seek diplomacy. As to resorting to force, which had been threatened at 
the close of the conference with the regent, the necessity of violent measures 
was never seriously contemplated by the Commodore, as it was rightly 
judged that a resolute attitude would answer all the purpose of a blow. 
The Commodore, therefore, sent Commanders Adams and Buchanan, accom- 
panied by Dr. Williams, to the mayor of Napha. These gentlemen were 
instructed to obtain categorical replies to all the demands made upon the 
regent the previous day. Simultaneously with this mission ashore, an inci- 
dent occurred, which, however slight in itself, had probably no small effect 
upon the timid hearts of the Lew Chewans. The Commodore had dis- 
patched his carpenter to look after the sedan chair which had been deposited 
in the temple at Tumai, since its use on the previous occasion of the grand 
procession to the palace of Shui. The people of Lew Chew watched, with 
considerable anxiety, the movements of the carpenter, and their frightened 
imaginations already, no doubt, fancied the Commodore borne on in his car 
of state, the aforesaid sedan chair, as a triumphant victor within the walls 
of their capital. 

Whether this looking after the sedan chair was accidental or not, it 
happened in the very nick of time, and probably hastened the decision of 
the Lew Chew authorities. The mayor of Napha was very prompt in com- 
plying, to the extent of his authority, with the demands of the Commodore, 
as urged in his behalf by his representative Commander Adams, who returned 
to the ship bearing the message that the regent would be immediately com- 
municated with, and that the Commodore might be assured that a definite 
answer would be given to his propositions the next day. 



MATTERS AMICABLY ADJUSTED. 327 

Accordingly, at about ten o'clock the following morning, the mayor 
came on board the Susquehanna, with the information that all the Commo- 
dore's propositions had been acceded to, and would be carried out as far as 
the people could be controlled. He then, in detail, stated the various con- 
cessions to which the government had finally yielded. In regard to the 
coal depot, he said that preparations had already been made for its construc- 
tion, and that the government had agreed upon the amount of rent, which 
was to be ten dollars per month. As for access to the market, it having 
been stated that the difficulty was with the common people, and particu- 
larly the women, who were averse to entering into immediate traffic with 
strangers, a compromise was proposed by the Commodore, and agreed to on 
the part of the mayor, which was to the effect that a bazaar should be 
opened in the Kung-qua for the sale of the various products of the country 
which the Americans might desire to purchase. 

The mayor proposed the subsequent Sunday for the opening of the 
bazaar, when he was told that that was a day kept holy by Christians, when 
buying and selling were contrary to their religion. It was then proposed, 
and acceded to, that as the squadron was not to sail until Monday, at nine 
o'clock, that the market should be opened at six o'clock on the morning of 
that day. 

Although the authorities had soon found that it was necessary to give 
a favorable answer to the demands of the Commodore, and the mayor of 
Napha had come on board for the express purpose of giving such an an- 
swer, which he accordingly did at once, yet while yielding each point, he 
still pertinaciously insinuated all sorts of trivial objections to the Commo- 
dore's plans. He said that the coal would not be safe on shore, as the 
natives would probably steal it ; in answer to which he was told that the 
government of Lew Chew would be held responsible for every lump of it. 
The mayor was then ready with another objection, stating that typhoons 
blew very severely on the island, and would no doubt sweep away the coal 
depot ; and thus, to the very last, while forced to grant all that was asked, 
the authorities still clung to their prevaricating policy, as if deceit was so 
much a part of their nature that they practised it for its own sake alone. 

During the few days in which the steamers remained at Napha a party 
of the officers and artists of the expedition, at the suggestion of Commo- 
dore Perry, availed themselves of the occasion to visit the ruins of the 
castle of Tima-gusko. The Commodore had requested them to take their 
supplies with them, that they might be entirely independent of the natives 
for the satisfaction of their wants. They accordingly set out well provided 
with a supply of ship biscuit, and some American sak% which Japanese 
word was now pretty generally accepted as the generic term for all that was 
intoxicating and potable. Trusting to the general direction that the castle 
was situated at the southern end of the island, and constantly repeating 



328 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

with an interrogatory tone, whenever they met a native, the word " Tima- 
gusko ? " the party proceeded on their way. Passing from the little village, 
on the southern side of Junk River, they got upon a narrow paved road 
leading eastward along its banks. By the way they reached a large village, 
where they were hospitably entertained at tea, in a handsome Kung-qua^ 
embowered in fruit-bearing lime trees, and succeeded in making friends 
with the Lew Chewan host, and a party of his neighbors, who just dropped 
in to get a glance at the strangers, and to share in their supplies of ship 
biscuit and foreign saJci, which were liberally dispensed by the American 
officers, and highly relished, as usual, by the Lew Chewans. 

Tima-gusho ? Tima-gusko ? which was about the extent of the limited 
vocabulary of the Americans, seemed quite intelligible, and the interroga- 
tory repetition of the word was responded to by an offer on the part of the 
Lew Chewan tea party to act as guides. They were, undoubtedly, some of 
the spies who swarmed everywhere, but it was thought advisable, as it 
seemed quite impracticable to get rid of them, to turn these fellows to some 
good purpose, and their services as guides were accordingly accepted. In 
spite, however, of their assistance, it was a long time before the right road 
was discovered, and then only after a very tedious tramp through rice 
fields flooded with water, and the climbing of a steep hill, from which a 
beautiful view, however, of the palace of Shui and its groves, and Napha 
with its white tombs and red tiled houses, and its inner and outer bays, and 
of the whole amphitheatre of the verdant hills of the island, proved some 
compensation for the labor lost. 

The true road was only reached at last by turning back, in accordance 
with the direction of the Lew Chewan guides, or rather spies, in whom it 
would have been better to have trusted from the first ; but these timid- 
hearted natives had become so impressed with the obstinacy of the self- 
willed Yankees, and their resolute determination to have their own way, 
wherever it might lead, that they seemed half afraid of urging the right, 
when they knew the Americans were pursuing the wrong. It was thus, 
from the apparent distrust in their own knowledge on the part of the Lew 
Chewans, that the party from the ship had followed their own bent, but 
finding at last that it was wrong, they trusted to the leadership of their 
guides. * 

On returning through the rice fields towards the bridge of Ishirashi, as 
the natives called it, and which was supposed to be the same as that of 
Madaiv-darki, as it had been termed by Dr. Bettleheim, the Lew Chewans 
pointed up to some ruined walls which stood upon the brink of a lofty and 
precipitous hill, which overlooked the town of Napha, and a large circuit of 
the country and the surrounding waters. 

The report, as drawn up by one of the party and laid before the Commo- 
dore, describes Tima-gusko as distant four miles in a southeast direction from 



CASTLE OF TIMA-GUSKO. 329 

Napha, and as being on a large scale, covering about eight acres, but in a 
state of utter ruin. It seemed to have no regular plan, and the walls had 
been erected upon various projecting points of the rock, and often parallel to 
each other in several lines, for the purpose of strengthening the defences. 
The neck of the headland connecting it with the hills behind had been sepa- 
rated by a moat, which was, however, hardly perceptible from the profuse 
growth of vegetation, which filled it up and concealed it from the eye. On 
a lofty eminence of the headland there was an oblong space shut in with 
walls, and thickly crowded with a dense thicket of trees and undergrowth. 
This part of the fortress was in a better state of preservation than the rest, 
and the original height of the wall, which reached about twelve feet, was dis- 
cernible. On the western side there was a massive arched gateway, with a 
wooden door, closed by what appeared to be a Chinese lock. As a large 
tree, growing on the summit of the arch, had sent down its twisted roots 
among the stones which formed the sides of the entrance, a natural ladder 
was thus formed, by which the party succeeded in clambering over into the 
enclosed space. Following a narrow pathway through the otherwise impene- 
trable thicket, a heap of ruins was reached, upon the summit of which were 
two stones marked with Chinese characters, and the remains of some joss 
sticks. From these it was concluded that the present inhabitants of Lew 
Chew still retain some forms of this worship. Tima-gusTco is undoubtedly 
the remains of the southern one of the three castles which were the strong- 
holds of the three several kings who at one time divided the dominion of Lew 
Chew. The traditional account of the former dynasties, as given by Kla- 
proth in his translation of the ^^ Kan-to-sits,''' seems remarkably confirmed 
by the observations of our officers at Lew Chew. The two castles of the 
north and the south were found in ruins, while the central one of Shui, now the 
habitation of the present supposed young king, was seen to be in a perfect 
state of preservation, and indicated that the dynasty of Lew Chew had been 
finally concentrated in a single ruler. 

In accordance with the arrangements between the Commodore and the au- 
thorities of Napha, the bazaar was opened at six o'clock on the morning of the 
steamer's departure, (Monday, August 1.) The Kung-qua, the ^lace selected 
for the mart, was found duly prepared, with heaps of Lew Che wan productions, 
a motley assortment of lacquered cups, plates and boxes, pieces of grass- 
cloth, and the various articles of Lew Chew costume, such as cotton and silk 
sashes, sandals of straw, and hair pins of brass and silver, fans, chow-chow 
boxes, which correspond somewhat with our sandwich cases, smoking pipes, 
and a plentiful supply of tobacco. The interpreter, Ichirazichi, was the 
presiding genius, or, rather, roguish Mercury of this market, who went busily 
about performing his functions as general broker, accompanied by a group 
of subordinate officials. The various parties from the ship soon commenced 
a brisk business, arrtl succeeded in spending, in the aggregate, about a hun- 



330 EXPBDITIOJT TO JAPAN. 

dred dollars. As the demand increased it was found, in accordance with the 
usual law of trade, that the supply augmented, and the Lew Chew merchants 
were not backward in illustrating this priiciple of political economy. The 
prices were not very heavy at first, but the natives, in the course of the busi- 
ness, began to unprove in this particular, and it was found that some from 
the ships had paid at least double the sum paid by others for a similar article. 
The objects obtained were of not much importance, but the chief interest of 
the occasion arose from the fact that this dealing with foreigners was the first 
authorized, and was in direct opposition to a fundamental law of the island, 
the abrogation of which cannot but result in the greatest advantage to the 
people of Lew Chew. The signal of departure being hoisted, the party of 
purchasers returned to their respective ships, and at 8 o'clock in the morning, 
(August 1 ,) the Commodore started for Ilong Kong. 

So prompt had been the efi"ect of the Commodore's resolute demands upon 
the authorities of Lew Chew, that on the day of sailing, the building for the 
storage of coal, commenced only two days previous, had been framed and 
reared, and it was learned afterward that it was entirely finished in two days 
more. The building is 50 by 60 feet in dimensions, with a water-tight 
thatched roof, with the eaves projecting beyond the sides, which are boarded 
up more than half the distance from the ground to the roof, leaving an open 
space sufficient for purposes of ventilation. It was originally of sufficient 
capacity to hold 500 tons of coal, and the first cargo placed in it was that of 
the Caprice, which arrived soon after the departure of the Commodore. 
Subsequently, the Southampton landed her cargo, shipped at Macao, when it 
was thought advisable to enlarge the depot, and accordingly the authorities 
added a wing to each side. 

The Commodore, conceiving it to be of the highest importance that a 
ship of the squadron should be stationed almost constantly at Lew Chew, to 
keep alive the friendly interest and good feeling then subsisting between the 
Americans and the islanders, who were becoming daily more cordial, he de- 
termined to leave the Plymouth, Commander Kelly, there. He, however^ 
instructed this officer to run over to the Bonin islands, after the termination 
of the hurricane season, for the purpose both of visiting the settlement at 
Port Lloyd and of surveying the southern cluster of the Bonins, originally 
called the Coffin islands, after the first American discoverer in 1823, though, 
as we have stated before, subsequently appropriated and named by the Eng- 
lish Captain Beechy, the Baily group. 

The instructions of the Commodore to Commander Kelly referred gen- 
erally to the conciliatory but firm attitude he desired should be sustained 
in all the relations of the Americans with the Lew Chewans. It was strictly 
enjoined upon Captain Kelly that he should receive nothing from the island- 
ers without returning a fair compensation, and always bear himself towards 
them in such manner as to prove that it was the desire of the United States 



SURVEY OF THE BONIN ISLANDS. 331 

to cultivate their friendship and secure their confidence. The Commodore, 
in addition to some detailed instructions in regard to the construction of the 
coal dejDot and lauding the cargoes from the expected storeships, directed 
that, in his absence, the survey of Melville harbor and the coast of the island 
should be made, the investigations already commenced in the waters of Napha 
be continued, and a boat and officer kept in readiness to pilot in any of the 
American squadron that might arrive. 

In regard to Captain Kelly's visit to the Bonin Islands, he was instructed 
to proceed with the Plymouth, after the hurricane season, about the 1st of 
October, provided nothing occurred to detain him at Lew Chew, to Port 
Lloyd, where he was to inquire into the condition of the settlers, especially 
with respect to Nathaniel Savory and John Smith, two persons who had been 
enrolled on the books of the steamer Susquehanna. He was also directed, after 
obtaining the services of some of the settlers at Port Lloyd as guides or pilots, 
to visit the group of islands lying south of Peel Island, and named on Beechy's 
chart Baily's group. Captain Kelly was then to lay out a chart, giving the 
result of his survey, and to be careful to give the name of Coffin, the original 
discoverer, to the group of islands alluded to. The largest single island, or 
the one containing the best harbor, was to be called Hillsborough, and its 
port to be termed Newport. To these directions were added general instruc- 
tions to examine and survey the harbor and coasts, and to investigate the 
geological formation and the nature and condition of the soil of the Coffin 
Islands. 

In anticipation of the regular course of the narrative, it may be well to 
give here the result of Captain Kelly's observations and proceedings at the 
Lew Chew and Bonin Islands, in accordance with the Commodore's instruc- 
tions. The officer appointed by the commander of the Plymouth for the sur- 
vey of the middle group of the Lew Chew Islands and the neighboring 
waters, reports that on September 15, 1853, he and his party encamped on the 
island of Kindaka, the southeastern one of the chain, extending along the 
coast of Grreat Lew Chew. Here a bay was discovered, but it was found to 
be of no practical utility, being filled with coral reefs, which extend, in fact, 
in an unbroken chain outside of all the islands as far as the northeast point 
of Ichey, with the exception of a narrow ship channel between the islet off 
the northeast end of Kudaka and the island of Ta-king. But as this channel 
leads to a bay with numerous reefs, it is not safe to enter it. In regard to 
Barrow's Bay, the survey proved it to be useless for all purposes of naviga- 
tion, from its exposure to easterly winds and the swell from the ocean. 

A port of refuge, however, was discovered on the west side of the island 

of Ichey ^ which forms the southern point of Barrow's Bay, as well as under 

Hanadi, toward both of which a secure anchorage may be found. This is, iu 

fact, the only harbor of refuge on the eastern coast of the Lew Chew group. 

' The position of Sidmouth Islands was found to be in latitude 26*^ 43' 



332 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

30" north, differing 3' 30" from that assigned to it by Captain Basil Hall 
in his sketch of the Lew Chew group. 

And the outline of the coast was observed also to run in a direction vary- 
ing somewhat from that laid down by that navigator. The whole of the 
island of Great Lew Chew was circumnavigated in the course of this survey, 
under the directions of Commander Kelly. 

On the arrival of the Plymouth at the Bonins, it was found that the set- 
tlers on Peel Island, the principal one of the group, had of their own accord 
organized a municipal government, under the title of '' The Colony of Peel 
Island." Commander Kelly also, in accordance with the instructions of 
Commodore Perry, visited the islands hitherto termed " Baily's," took for- 
mal possession of them in the name of the United States, and gave them 
their proper name of Coffin, a due record of which was made upon the chart, 
and upon the spot, by affixing a plate, inscribed with the fact, to a large 
sycamore tree growing about twenty feet from the beach, near the northwest 
point of the cove, and burying one also, with some documents placed in a 
bottle, giving a true history of the discovery of the islands, and assigning 
the credit to the genuine discoverer, the American whaling captain, Coffin.* 

* As an interesting specimen of this original effort at constitution-making by wanderers 
from many lands, civilized and savagCj we subjoin a copy of the 

" ORGANIZATION OF THE SETTLERS OF PEEL ISLAND." 

" We, the undersigned, residents and settlers on Peel Island, in convention assembled, 
wishing to promote each other's mutual welfare, by forming a government, have ordained 
and established the following articles, which we solemnly bind ourselves to support for the 
period of two years." 

ARTICLE I. 

" The style of our government shall be ' llie Colony of Peel Island. 

ARTICLE II. 
" The government shall consist of a chief magistrate, and a council, composed of two 
persons ; and by virtue of this article, we hereby unanimously elect and appoint Nathaniel 
Savory, chief magistrate, and James Maitley and Thomas H. Webb, councilmen ; each to 
hold his said office of chief magistrate and councilman for the period of two years from 
the date of this convention. The said chief magistrate and council shall have power to 
enact such rules and regulations for the government of this island as to them, from time to 
time, may appear necessary for the public good ; such rules and regulations, to become 
binding on the residents, must have the approval and concurrence of two-thirds of the 
whole number of the residents," 

ARTICLE III. 

" Until such time as the chief magistrate and council may be enabled to form a code of 
regulations, we unanimously ordain and establish the following thirteen sections, under this 
article, which shall have full force and effect until the adoption of others, and until the ex- 
piration of two years." 



EFFECT OF VISIT ON LEW CHEWANS. 333 

On leaving Napba, the reflection naturally suggested itself to the mind 
of the Commodore as to the effect produced upon the Lew Chewans, by his 
visit. It seemed evident that a very marked change had taken place in the 
deportment of the islanders toward the Americans. 

There was less mystery about them, and some of the spies had thrown 
off a portion of their reserve. The Lew Chew authorities probably conjec- 
tured, and with good cause, that the trouble they had taken in their attempts 
to deceive the Commodore, with respect to the condition of their govern- 
ment, the poverty of the islands, and the harmless innocence of the people, 
was futile, and so much labor lost. And accordingly it was found that, 
although they still adhered, as if by instinct, to their system of deception, 
they were not quite so ready with their misrepresentations. 

Sectiox 1. — " It shall be the duty of any and all person or persons having claims and 
demands against each other, or who shall have any dispute or difficulties between them- 
selves, which they cannot amicably settle, to refer the same to the chief magistrate and 
council, for adjudication and settlement ; and their decision to be final and binding." 

Section 2. — "All penalties in this colony shall be a pecuniary fine : and no penalty for 
liny offence shaU exceed the sum of ." 

Section 3. — " The chief magistrate and council shall have power to direct the seizure 
and sale of any property of any offenders, sufficient to pay the same, against whom a fine 
has been decreed, wherever it may be found within the limits of Peel Island." 

Section 4. — " It shall be unlawful for any resident, settler, or other person, on the 
island, to entice anybody to desert from any vessel that may come into this port, or to 
secrete or harbor any such deserter." 

Section 5. — " Any person who shall entice, counsel, or aid, any other person to desert 
from any vessel in this port, or shall harbor or conceal him to prevent his apprehension, 
shall be liable to a fine, not exceeding $50 (fifty dollars)." 

Section 6. — "All moneys arising from the levy of fines upon offenders shall be a pub- 
lic fund for the use and behalf of the colony ; and the same shall be placed in the hands 
of the chief magistrate for safe keeping, and to be appropriated to such public purposes as 
the chief magistrate and council may deem necessary and proper ; and a correct account 
of all expenditures of said moneys shall be kept by them, and a statement of receipts and 
expenditures pubKshed at the end of one year." 

Section 7. — "All public moneys remaining unexpended at the end of one year shall 
be equally divided among the present settlers, unless otherwise ordained by a convention of 
the people." 

Section 8. — " Port Regulations. — There shall be two regularly appointed and recognized 
pilots for this port, and, by virtue of this section of article 3, we hereby unanimously ap- 
point James Maitley and Thomas H. Webb as such for a period of two years from the 
dat€ of this convention. Said pilots may appoint capable substitutes under them ; and it 
shall be unlawful for any other person or persons to perform the duty of pilots. Any one 
who shall, without the authority of either of the appointed pilots, attempt to pilot any 
vessel into or out of this port, shall be liable to a fine equal to the amount of the estab- 
lished rate of pilotage." 

X Section 9. — " It shall be unlawful for any commander of a vessel to discharge any of 
his crew in this port without permission from the chief magistrate and council, and no 
commander of a vessel shall leave any sick or helpless man or men upon the island, unless 



334 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

But, after all, many allowances should be made for these misgoverned 
people, who have been, doubtless, taught from infancy to practise duplicity 
and lying as a necessary part of an accomplished education, and altogether 
essential to advancement. It is certain that they do not, any more than the 
Japanese, place the least confidence in each other, and the government in 
employing their agents invariably send them forth in couples, one to watch 
the other. 

The abominable system of espionage imposes great hardships on all 
classes, as those in power can never know how soon any of their acts, how- 
ever harmless they may appear to themselves, may be construed into 
offences against the state. They thus find their lives in constant jeopardy, 
and are often compelled to purchase safety by the most servile humility, or 
a good share of their substance. If, by the most prostrate servility, or by 
the prodigal forfeit of property, they fail to obtain immunity, they are forced 

he procure a house for him or them, and make suitable arrangements for his or their com- 
fort and subsistence during his or their illness." 

Section 10. — " Any person or persons not owning land upon this island, who may here- 
after enter into partnership in trade with a resident and landholder, or who shall purchase 
an undivided interest in the land of a resident, must enter into written articles of agree- 
ment, and obtain a written title to the undivided interest he may purchase in lands, stock, 
&c. ; and in the event of dissolution of partnership, or death of either party, partition of 
the property shall be made by the chief magistrate and council, whose duty it shall be to 
secure and take charge of the property and effects of any deceased person for the benefit of 
his friends." 

Section 11. — " Any person or persons who shall be guilty of trespass or waste upon 
the lands of any of the inhabitants, shall be fined in a sum equal to the value of the dam- 
age or waste he or they may commit thereon, upon a proper adjudication thereof by the 
chief magistrate and council." 

Section 12. — "The chief magistrate and council may, when they deem it necessary, 
call a convention of the people to propose new, and make amendments to the foregoing, 
rules and regulations." 

Section 13. — " Any and all person or persons who shall hereafter emigrate to or settle 
in this colony, shall be subject and held amenable to the foregoing rules and regulations." 

All the above articles of government having been prepared, concurred in, and adopted 
by us, in convention assembled, at the house of Nathaniel Savory, in Port Lloyd, Peel 
island, on the 28th day of August, A. D. 1853, we solemnly pledge ourselves to each other 
to support and carry out the same. 

In testimony whereof we have hereunto subscribed our names the day and year afore- 
said. 

NATHANIEL SAVORY. 
THOMAS H. WEBB. 
JAMES MAITLEY. 
WILLIAM GILLY, Jr. 
JOHN BRONA. 
JOSEPH CULLEN. 
GEORGE W. BRUNO. 
GEORGE HORTON. 



ARRIVAL OF THE VANDALIA. 335 

to commit suicide, in order to save their fortunes from confiscation and their 
families from ruin. The lower classes are by no means the smallest sufferers, 
for it is their hard-tasked labor which supports the whole system which is 
carried on by swarms of spies, who infest every corner and nook of the 
island. 

On the second evening after leaving Napha, as the Susquehanna and 
Mississippi were proceeding on their course to Hong Kong, a sail was seen 
ahead in the distance, steering in a northeasterly direction. At first there 
were some doubts as to what she was, but these were soon cleared up by 
the flashing of her guns, in the approaching darkness of the night, which 
showed that she was saluting the Commodore's flag on the Susquehanna. 
It was now certain that she was an American man-of-war, and soon she was 
discovered to be the long-expected Yandalia. As she lay to, the Susquehanna 
steered towards her, making a signal for her commander to come on board, 
and soon a boat came off, bringing Captain Pope, who at once reported to 
the Commodore. The voyage of the Vandalia had been a remarkably fine 
one, having left Philadelphia only on the fifth of March, touching at Rio 
Janeiro by the way. Her commander brought the information of the arri- 
val of the Powhatan, from the United States, at Hong Kong, and of her 
proposed departure for Lew Chew. This information made Commodore 
Perry very anxious to reach port before the sailing of the Powhatan, as her 
trip to the north would be utterly useless, and the consequent consumption 
of coal a serious loss to the limited stock of the squadron. The Yandalia 
being ordered back to Hong Kong, the fleet continued its course to that 
place, where the steamers arrived on Sunday, August 7, 1853. 

The Vandalia, however, did not get back to Hong Kong until the fif- 
teenth. The Commodore was much disappointed to find that the Powhatan 
had sailed just the day before his arrival, and as she had taken the Formosa 
passage, he had thus lost the chance of intercepting her. She did not 
return to Hong Kong until the 25th of August, having been detained ten 
days at Lew Chew for the repair of her machinery ; and similar delays had 
been found necessary, in the opinion of her chief engineer, at almost every 
port at which the Powhatan touched on her outward passage. 

As the typhoon season was approaching, and the ships all required a 
general overhauling, the engineers asking for sixty working days for putting 
the Powhatan alone in order, and the crews needing some relaxation, the 
Commodore determined, in consideration of these circumstances, to give all 
his vessels a thorough refitment. 



CHAPTER XVI. 



Alarm of Americans in China. — Eequest to Commodore that he wonld send a ship to Canton.— Supply- 
sent. — The rest of the squadron at Cum-sing-moon. — Hospital established and house taken at Macao. 
—Sickness in the squadron. — Work kept up in all departments, notwithstanding.— Healthiness of 
Canton. — Gluttony of the Chinese. — Chinese servants. — Chinese English, or " Pigeon." — Male dress- 
makers, chamber servants, etc. — Chinese female feet. — Chinese guilds. — Beggars. — Charitable institu- 
tions. — Thieves. — Boatmen. — Laboring classes. — Domestic servants. — Polygamy and its moral results 
— Dpcadence of Macao. — Humbled condition of the Portuguese. — Harbor of Macao. — Commodore es- 
tablishes his depot for the squadron at Hong Kong. — Pleasant society of Macao. — Powhatan stationed 
at Whampoa to relieve the Susquehanna. — Supply still at Canton. — Chinese peaceable toward foreign- 
ers. — Steamer "Queen " chartered to protect American interests in China while the squadron should 
go to Yeddo.— Suspicious movements of Enssians and French induce the Commodore to hasten his 
return to Japan. — Lexington arrives. — The squadron ordered to rendezvous at Napha, Lew Chew. — 
Orders received, just as the squadron leaves China, to detach a steamer for the use of Mr. McLane, 
American commissioner to China. — Embarrassment of the Commodore in consequence. — His mode 
of proceeding to accomplish both the objects of the government— Correspondence with Sir George 
Bonham touching the Bonin islands. — Courtesy of the English Admiral Pellew.— Squadron assembles 
at Napha. 




UCH time had not elapsed 
after the arrival of Commo- 
dore Perry at Hong Kong, 
before the American mer- 
"-- chants at Canton applied to 
_j.y him for further protection 
7^7 to their lives and property, 
- ""_ which they believed endan- 
3^ gered by what appeared to 
^^ them the imminent prospect 
^^- of a revolutionary outbreak 
T^ in the city. These gentle- 
men addressed a communica- 
, tion to the Commodore, in 
which they expressed their 
great satisfaction at his de- 
termination to remain upon the Chinese coast with his squadron until 
he was prepared to resume negotiations with Japan. They moreover stated 




SUPPLY SENT TO CANTON. 337 

their belief that the revolution which had commenced in China would result 
in the overthrow of the Tartars, with no immediate prospect for the future 
but a confused state of anarchy, without a power anywhere to reduce it to 
the order of a settled government. 

While it was acknowledged that the majority of the Chinese people are 
distinguished by a disposition to cultivate the peaceful pursuits of industry 
and commerce, and the opinion was expressed that the revolutionists were 
favorably disposed toward foreign intercourse, thus giving hopes for the 
future prosperity of trade, still it was declared that the disturbed condition 
of the country was such that, if continued, foreign commerce would be de- 
stroyed, and the importation of American goods, so vastly important to 
the United States, be entirely extinguished. 

The chief purpose, however, of the communication from the American 
merchants was, as it stated, to urge upon the Commodore to send one or 
more of his vessels to the immediate neighborhood of the factories at Can- 
ton, the whole country about which place was swarming with thieves and 
desperate fellows, lyiug in wait for an opportunity to attack and plunder 
the foreign residences, if not to wreak their vengeance upon the persons of 
their occupants. 

The Commodore promptly answered this communication with assurances 
of his determination to give his countrymen all the protection required in 
the prevailing crisis of China affairs. He had already sent the Mississippi 
to Blenheim Reach to protect the shipping at Whampoa, as also to guard 
against the numerous pirates ; and had directed an examination of the river 
with a view of moving that steamer nearer Canton ; but as for placing her 
at the point desired by the American merchants, it was impossible, from her 
draught of water. The Commodore, however, promised that the Supply, 
which had an efficient armament and accommodations for a hundred and 
fifty men, should be sent on her arrival, if it were necessary, to the city of 
Canton itself, and if there was any delay in the arrival of that vessel, that 
the storeship Southampton should take her place. In the meantime the 
merchants were informed that they could have, if they desired, a guard of 
marines and one or more pieces of artillery from the Mississippi, which would 
be landed and stationed at the Factories. Moreover, Commander Lee, of 
the steamer Mississippi, was instructed to be prepared to land, on the requi- 
sition of the acting American vice-consul, at a moment's notice, an advanced 
guard, to be followed, if need be, by a much larger force, composed of de- 
tachments from the other ships in the river. 

On the arrival of the Supply from Amoy, the Commodore dispatched 
her, as he had promised, to take her station at the anchorage opposite the 
city of Canton. Meanwhile the remainder of the squadron were ordered to 
rendezvous at Cum-sing-moon, a port lying between Hong Kong and Macao- 
This port was more safe and commodious, as well as more healthful, than 
22 



338 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

any of tlie otlier harbors or anchorages in the neighborhood, and, being the 
rendezvous of the opium vessels belonging to the merchants of Canton, 
possessed the additional advantage of constant communication with the 
neighboring towns. 

The Commodore, having thus disposed of his squadron, found it conve- 
nient, in order to arrange the accumulated results of his voyage to Japan 
and the Lew Chew and Bonin islands, to take a house at Macao, for facili- 
tating his own business, and for the accommodation of the surveying officers 
and artists of the expedition to bring up their work. A hospital was also 
established in the town under the superintendence of the fleet surgeon. 
The Commodore found the station he selected much more advantageous 
than it would have been on board either of the ships, or at Canton or 
Hong Kong; as Macao was an intermediate, or rather central point be- 
tween those two places and Cum-sing-moon, and where, with mails arriving 
and departing daily, and steamers and dispatch boats almost hourly, he was 
enabled to hold communication with them all. 

The hospital soon had a goodly number of inmates sent from the different 
ships. Scarcely an officer or man escaped an attack of fever of more or less 
severity, and some few deaths occurred, among which were those of Lieu- 
tenant Adams, of the Powhatan, and the master of the band belonging to 
the steamer Mississippi. The Commodore himself, worn out by duties which 
were more than usually heavy, in consequence of the supervision of the 
labors in connection with the accumulated results of the expedition, and 
large correspondence that became necessary from the apprehensions of the 
danger entertained by the American merchants as likely to result from the 
disturbed state of China, was finally prostrated and suffered from an attack 
of illness. Notwithstanding, however, the work of the expedition was not 
allowed any remission. The surveying officers continued their hydrograph- 
ical labors, and succeeded in preparing fair copies of the charts which had 
been constructed during the late cruise. The artists and draughtsmen 
were constantly engaged in making and completing their sketches and draw- 
ings, of which more than two hundred were finished. The several appa- 
ratus of the magnetic telegraph, the Daguerreotype, and the Talbotype were 
arranged and put in full operation. 

Macao had always hitherto beeii considered a remarkably salubrious 
place, and chosen as the usual summer resort of families from Canton and 
Hong Kong; but the epidemic which prevailed in 1853 proved that it was 
not always to be exempt from those destructive visitations of disease to 
which the cities and towns of the east are so much exposed. During the 
time that so much sickness prevailed at Macao, Canton was comparatively 
exempt. In fact, this latter city is looked upon, and justly so, as a health- 
ful place when compared with other cities in the neighborhood ; and this 
seems more remarkable, when it is considered that the inhabitants are con- 



SALUBRITY OF CANTON. 3S\) 

stantly breathing the miasmatic atmosphere arising from the luxuriant and 
marshy fields of rice and other grains which surround Canton. Many parts 
of the town itself, in fact, are periodically overflowed by the rising of the 
river, which makes the circumstance of its comparative healthfulness still 
more extraordinary. While there was so much sickness at Macao, the pub- 
lic garden of the Factories at Canton was covered with water, which ap- 
proached to the very doors of the merchants, and this too at a season when, 
in all inter-tropical latitudes, local fevers are to be expected. And notwith- 
standing all these exciting causes of disease, the officers and crew of the 
Supply, at anchor off the city, and within the direct influence of them, 
remained perfectly healthy, while those on board the other ships suffered 
more or less from the prevailing epidemic. 

Various speculations have been advanced to account for the singu- 
lar exemption of the inhabitants of Canton from the effects of malaria. 
Some have ascribed it to the vast amount of smoke produced by the burn- 
ing of wood for domestic purposes, while others have attributed it to the 
abstemiousness of the people. These reasons seem, however, insufficient to 
account for it; for if smoke only be effective to dispel the ill influences of 
malaria, New Orleans should be free from them, for more fuel is certainly 
burned there than at Canton. As for the abstemiousness of the people, 
which certainly exists, but from necessity, not choice, it is hardly reasonable 
to suppose that it would counteract the other habits of their lives, which 
certainly would appear to be highly unfavorable to health. If narrow, 
filthy streets, ill-ventilated and crowded houses, and uncleanliness of person, 
can produce disease, then it would appear that the people of Canton should 
be sorely afflicted. But yet all these predisposing causes seem to have no 
effect either upon the myriads who live and die in crowded boats upon the 
river, or upon those who throng the land ; and years pass away without any 
serious epidemic. 

In regard to the abstemiousness of the Chinese, this, as has been re- 
marked, is altogether a virtue of necessity, as they seem to be fond enough 
of flesh and of all sorts of food, however gross, when they can get it. They 
are certainly the most inordinate feeders in the world, when supplied with 
the material necessary for the exercise of their gastronomical propensities. 
The poorer classes are accustomed to the use of boiled rice only, mixed 
with small proportions of dried fish, and occasionally with some simple con- 
diments, and they consume enormous quantities of this food, if they have 
the means of procuring it. Dogs and cats, which are carried about the 
streets for sale, must be considered delicacies above the reach of the poorer 
classes, judging from the prices demanded for them. Rats, mice, and other 
vermin, are also eagerly sought after, and are made up into various savory 
dishes. To the families belonging to the fast boats attached to the ship, a 
good fat rat was one of the most acceptable of presents, which they cooked 



340 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

and served up with their rice, making a dish very much like the French one 
of Poulet-au-riz in appearance ; but as for the taste, that question must be 
referred to Chinese authorities, as no American or European has yet been 
found, it is believed, to test it by actual experiment. 

Those Chinese employed in the ships of the squadron have always 
found the navy ration insufficient to satisfy their gluttony, notwithstanding 
that of the United States vessels is far more abundant and of better quality 
than the ration of the navy of any other country. A mess of ten American 
seamen usually stop each two rations, for which they receive the commu- 
tation in money. The Chinese, however, although the most sordid of beings, 
not only devoured the entire ration served out to them, but went about the 
decks collecting what they could pick up from the leavings of the messes, 
and invariably beset the ship's cooks for the scrapings of the coppers. 

The Chinese servants employed in the Commodore's cabin ate, in miscel- 
laneous food, including rice, bread, beef, pork, and the leavings of the table, 
three times as much as the other attendants. In fact, the enormous quanti- 
ties of rice they consumed, with whatever else they could seize upon, is 
almost incredible. As for sugar and other sweets, there would have been 
no end to their pilfering, if they had not been carefully watched by the 
steward. This gross feeding exhibited its effects upon the Chinese servants, 
as it does upon dumb animals, for they soon became fat and lazy. 

Most of the Chinese servants employed in the European and American 
families settled in China, engage to find their own food. Their wages vary 
from four to six and seven dollars per month ; the cooks, however, receive 
from seven to ten. All articles for household consumption, in the foreign 
establishments, are procured through the agency of a person called a com- 
prador^ who hires the servants, pays them their wages, and becomes security 
for their honesty ; he keeps a regular account of the domestic expenditure, 
and settles with his employers at established periodical seasons. In the 
large mercantile establishments, the profits of these compradors are very 
considerable. However ample a dinner may have been furnished, it would 
be difficult to secure at some of the residences, where little attention is paid 
to the economy of the household by the proprietors themselves, anything for 
a late guest arriving half an hour after the meats had been served. Scarcely 
are the dishes taken from the dining room, before they are on their way to 
the neighboring eating houses, there to be rehashed into stews, and sold to 
the middle classes. In the hongs of the merchants, who are called upon, as 
a part of their business, to keep up abundant tables, great waste must 
necessarily take place, but as the expenditure goes to the profit and loss of 
the concern^ it is of little consequence. The missionaries and others, of 
small means, are necessarily hard put to it to make both ends meet. 

In the houses of the foreign merchants, where there happen to be no 
ladies, female servants are unknown; and what would appear to be repug- 



CHINESE SERVANTS. 341 

nant to our own sense of delicacy, there are even some English and Ameri- 
can families without female domestics, although ladies form part of the 
household. The reason assigned is the difficulty of obtaining trusty maid 
servants. 

It was, however, observed, that in all the families containing children, 
either maid servants or women of Macao, called Amahs or Ayahs, were em- 
ployed. 

The wages of the latter at Macao are four dollars a month, but if taken 
to Canton or Hong Kong they demand additional compensation. Many of 
the women speak a little of the lingua called Chinese English, or in the cant 
phrase, pigeon^ which sounds very ludicrous to those first hearing it, but one 
soon finds himself drawn necessarily into this manner of making himself un- 
derstood. The Macao women possessing this elegant accomplishment demand 
higher wages. 

There is certainly some excuse for employing male attendants about the 
bed chamber and dressing rooms, when it is known that the Chinese lords of 
creation are the only tailors, dress-makers, washers, ironers and doers up of 
fine linen. In Canton, however, there are some women hired by the tailors 
to do plain sewing, for which they receive nearly as little as our needle 
workers, and those poor creatures in Great Britain, over whose misery and 
living death Hood sang his dirge. Their pay is from five to seven cents a 
day. The male tailors are somewhat better paid, and will go to any house 
and work for twelve hours at the rate of twenty-five cents a day, they finding 
their own food, or, as they call it, their " chow-chow.'''' It is not uncommon 
to see a dirty small-footed female sitting at some corner in the street, with a 
supply of sewing materials and a few rags, ready to stitch up a rent or put a 
patch upon the garments of any passer by who may want her services. To- 
ward night she may be seen hobbling home, with her stock in trade, on her' 
disgusting stumps, of which she is seemingly very proud. 

All the Chinese women, in fact, pride themselves very much on their goat- 
like hoofs, and have the greatest possible contempt for a natural foot. Little 
girls are said to importune their mothers with tears in their eyes to compress 
their feet, as promising them a higher position in society, although females 
of the lower orders are frequently observed with the aristocratic hoof, 
but these are such as have, possibly, seen better days. It is difficult for 
strangers to get a sight of these singular deformities, as the Chinese women 
manifest the greatest reluctance to show them ; but Dr. Parker prevailed upon 
a girl of thirteen, who was a patient in the hospital, to unbandage in the 
presence of her mother, in order to satisfy the curiosity of the Commodore, 
who had quite enough in one glance of that shapeless stump, which appeared 
more like a specimen of bad surgery, such as Dr. Parker would have been 
doubtless ashamed of, than, as the Chinese considered it, an elegance of 
fashion. 



342 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

These horrid hoofs are very carefully looked after by the Chinese women, 
and are swathed in gay bandages of all colors, and shod with a high-heeled 
shoe, richly worked and adorned. 

A fashionable ladies' dressmaker in China, where all these indispensable 
servitors of fashion are males, is always greatly in demand among the foreign 
ladies, and it is as necessary to bespeak his services in time at Canton and 
Macao, as it is those of a Miss Lawson in New York. These man-milli- 
ners generally require what they call a muster^ or pattern, which they, with 
the usual Chinese imitative skill, reproduce exactly, whether of London, 
Paris or New York fashion, and adapt it to any form or size. It was by no 
means an agreeable sight, on passing one of the dark and dirty tailor shops 
at Macao, to behold the greasy and half naked Chinaman, late at night, 
busily plying his dirty fingers about a splendid female dress, destined to 
drape the graceful form of some beautiful woman at the coming ball or din- 
ner party. These male dressmakers are held in such estimation by those 
resident in China, that some few European and American ladies have been 
known, on leaving the country, to carry away a Chinese man milliner with 
them. 

The ordinary compensation for all operatives in Canton, who find their 
food, varies from twelve to twenty cents a day. Farm hands, when fed, re- 
ceive six cents for twelve hours work, being at the rate of a farthing an hour. 
The day laborers, chair bearers, and porters, if not hired by the job, are paid 
from twenty to twenty-five cents. Boatmen's wages are from one and a half 
to two and a quarter dollars per month, when found, which latter condition 
generally includes food, not only for themselves, but for their wives and chil- 
dren, who live with them in the boat. 

Porters, and those of other crafts in Canton, form themselves into guilds, 
and appoint leaders, or headmen, who contract for labor of various sorts. 
This system of organization is not confined to those who work, but extends 
to those who beg. The beggars, like the gipsies, have their kings, who as- 
sign to their ragged subjects their particular offices of vagabondage and their 
respective fields of operation ; and what is singular, the laws of China secure 
to these rogues certain rights and privileges. These laws give to them the 
right of approaching and knocking at the door of any domicile, or to enter 
the shops, and there to strike together a couple of sticks similar to those 
used by the watchmen employed by families to guard their premises against 
thieves; these sticks produce a disagreeable sound, and, however long the 
beggars keep up this annoyance, they cannot be legally ejected until they are 
paid the usual gratuity, which is the smallest coin in use, termed a cash, and 
which in value is about the twelfth of a cent ; when supplied with this the 
beggar takes his departure, and repeats the stick striking nuisance next door, 
and so on until he has completed his daily circuit. 

It is said that one hundred of these mendicants are assigned by their 



/ 



\ 



CHINESE BEGGARS. 343 

king to Old China street alone, wliicli is altogether occupied by wealthy 
shop-keepers. Some of these commute with the beggars, by paying them a 
round sum for exemption from the annoyance of these noisy visitors ; others 
refuse to do this, and hold out as long as their patience will allow, with a 
view of wasting the time of the suppliant, who, having a right to visit all the 
shops, desires to make the greatest number of calls possible in the course of 
the day, and thus be able to pay into the general treasury at night the largest 
amount of cash. The organized beggars have their own benevolent institu- 
tions, where provision is made for the sick and needy and the old and infirm. 
The number of these well disciplined gentry can hardly be estimated by a 
stranger, but it is undoubtedly very large, if we may judge from the crowds 
which infest those parts of the city of Canton accessible to foreigners. 

Each city has its own laws with respect to mendicants, and its own chari- 
table institutions. In Canton there are four principal benevolent establish- 
ments : one for widows, another for foundlings, a third for furnishing coffins 
for the dead relations of indigent families, and the fourth for " loafers." 
They are all, however, so badly managed, that they answer very indifferently 
the purpose intended, for it happens very generally in China, as is too often 
the case in Christianized countries, that those who have the control of these 
institutions contrive to embezzle the revenues, and thus make themselves 
rich by taking care of the poor. Whether thieving is one of the recognized 
functions of these beggars or not, is not known ; but it is quite clear that 
they can and do turn their hand with great skill to occasional small pilfering, 
in which they show themselves as great adepts as the most accomplished 
pickpockets in any part of the world. 

The Americans, during the detention of the squadron on the coast of 
China, had occasion to become practically acquainted with the mode of carry- 
ing on business on the part of the lower or laboring classes. Among these, the 
boatmen and boatwomen were those with whom there was, of course, tbe 
most frequent relations. The men-of-war, as in fact do most of the merchant 
vessels, employ what is called a fast boat, which is always in charge of a 
skipper. This man's family, if he have one, which is almost universally the 
case, lives with him in his boat, and assists in rowing, steering, managing the 
sails, and in otherwise conducting the craft. The children are born and 
grow up in the boat, rarely leaving her, and, in proportion to their number 
and strength, contribute to the profit of the father, who happens to be the 
proprietor. The females lend a hand as readily as the males, and both sexes 
are seen laboring alike. A skipper who has the misfortune to be childless, 
has to employ six or eight laborers to assist him in the management of his 
fast boat ; while he who has been blessed with a numerous progeny can dispense 
with these expensive assistants. Forty dollars a month is the ordinary rate 
paid by ships for the hire of one of these boats. 

There are various other descriptions of boatmen and boatwomen plying 



344 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

tlieir curio ds craft in the Canton river ; there are those who manage the 
flower boats, the hong boats, the pull-away boats, the numerous fishing boats, 
and the Tanka boats. The latter, and their picturesquely costumed female 
tenders, have been already described somewhat in a previous chapter ; but it 
may not be uninteresting to give some additional details in regard to them. 
They are used as passenger boats to carry people backward and forward 
from the land to the shipping in the harbor. In construction they are short, 
but broad in beam. In the centre there is a canopy of matting, under 
which the passengers sit or recline. The crew generally consists of two 
women, who are often quite young, and who are usually joint proprietors, 
and a little female apprentice of twelve or thirteen years of age. One of 
the elder girls sculls and steers the Tanka boat, the other sits in the bow and 
rows, while the chief function of the youthful apprentice is to collect the 
fare, see to the comfort of the passengers, and make herself generally useful. 

These girls rarely leave their boats except to purchase their simple food 
of rice, dried fish, and leeks, which they cook on board, except in very bois- 
terous weather, when it becomes necessary to haul their craft on shore. On 
the latter occasion they are always ready to lend each other a hand, and 
getting their boats high and dry on the land, and snugly protected, they form 
quite a group on the shore, like a flock of amphibious marine birds, and 
avail themselves of the opportunity to gossip and visit each other, on 
board of their stranded barks. 

In regard to the lower or laboring classes of China, of whom the Com- 
modore had an opportunity of forming some judgment, as he was brought in 
contact with them from the necessity of availing himself of their services, 
he was agreeably disappointed, as he found them, practically, not so bad after 
all. It is true, honesty is only a conventional virtue with the Chinese; but 
it can be obtained for money, like anything else among that nation of shop- 
keepers ; and if a Chinese laborer stipulates to be honest for a consideration, 
he may, in ordinary cases, be depended upon, especially if he furnishes 
security for the fulfilment of his contract. If, however, honesty has not 
been made expressly a part of the bargain, a Chinaman thinks he retains 
the right of lying, cheating, and thieving, to the full extent of his opportu- 
nity and the utmost bent of his inclinations. In engaging servants, it is 
customary to require of them to produce securities who will hold themselves 
accountable for their honesty and good conduct. Without an endorsement, 
no foreign merchant would think of taking a Chinese domestic into his house- 
hold, any more than he would receive across the desk of his counting-room 
an equivocal note without the security of a good house or name. 

It is difficult to form any just estimate of the higher classes in China 
without an opportunity, which few can possess, of mixing in intimate social 
intercourse with them. The foreign merchants, whose relations with the 
country are entirely commercial, have but little occasion of knowing any 



^■^ 







f ^(\V|\i I 




DEESS OF CHINESE LADY OF EANK. 



MACAO. 345 

others than those engaged in trade. The missionaries have an opportunity, 
undoubtedly, of extending their observations over a wider range, but their 
experience is generally confined to the outskirts of society. 

There was no very complete account of the social habits and character- 
istics of the Chinese people until the publication of Pere Hue's book of 
travels, which contains certainly tlte best account extant of the inner life of 
China. What is seen by a casual visitor of Chinese society is not calculated 
to impress him very favorably. The position of women is such as to destroy 
all the best features of domestic life. Polygamy being allowed by the laws 
of China, as well as concubinage, women are naturally considered as mere 
household slaves, to gratify the passions and do menial service at the will of 
their lords and masters. The men do not treat females as equals, and seem- 
ingly avoid their society as much as possible ; for they are passing their 
leisure hours at the tea and opium houses, while the women are kept at home 
in a state of domestic slavery. As among the negroes on the western coast 
of Africa, the wealth of a king or chief is estimated by the stock of wives 
he has been enabled to purchase, with all the cocoa-nut oil, gold dust, and 
elephants' tusks he can muster, so in China, damsels who can be bought to 
call a man husband, make his riches and swell his importance. The very 
wealthy and aristocratic are the exclusive few, however, in China, who can 
afford the luxury of a multiplicity of wives. 

The Commodore's residence at Macao gave him an opportunity of extend- 
ing his observations of that place, beyond what had been offered by his 
previous casual visit. 

Macao, once so famed for its extensive and profitable commerce and for 
its wealth, is now entirely divested of them, and seems to be sustained only 
by a small coasting trade, the expenditures of a limited garrison, and those 
of the families of the English and American merchants who make it a 
summer resort, and, having abundance of money, freely disburse it. The 
Portuguese jurisdiction is confined within very narrow limits. The Chinese 
settlements seem to be fast absorbing the whole place ; in fact, the larger 
portion of the population of the town is already composed of China men 
and women, who perform most of the menial duties in the domestic estab- 
lishments, both of the Portuguese and of other foreigners. 

The Chinese are also the shopkeepers, the mechanics, and the market 
people. What the native Portuguese have to do it would be difficult to 
conjecture. They are, with some exceptions of wealthy merchants, mostly 
very poor, and too proud to work ; there are some few, however, who are 
employed as clerks in the various foreign mercantile houses, while the greater 
portion spend their time in idleness, living upon the remnants of the once 
princely fortunes of their ancestors, and still occupy in beggarly poverty, 
the stately mansions erected in the olden time of Macao's splendid pros- 
perity. 



346 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

There is still a show of military possession on the part of the Portuguese 
who hold the surrounding hills, covering the city with fortified works, con- 
structed after the fashion of the seventeenth century. These seem quite 
sufficient to keep the Chinese in due awe, who, if they had the least energy, 
could easily dislodge the Portuguese, for whom they have no great affection, 
and might drive them altogether from the country. The Portuguese 
garrison consists of about two hundred regular soldiers and as many local 
militia, all of whom are under excellent discipline, and better dressed and 
more orderly men are seldom seen. 

It will be, perhaps, recollected, that the English East India Company, 
before the abolition of its charter, made Macao a sort of entrepot for its 
China trade, and some of the finest residences were erected by that munifi- 
cent corporation, or by the ostentatious Portuguese in their days of wealth 
and prosperity. One of these magnificent dwellings, with a garden of more 
than an acre in extent, tastefully laid out, and still kept in order at con- 
siderable cost, could be hired, at the time of the Commodore's visit, for the 
small sum of five hundred dollars a year ; and this place has the additional 
advantage of the romantic association with the name of the poet Camoens, 
it having been his favorite resort, and the spot upon which, as the reader has 
already seen, a monument to his memory has been erected. It was from 
Macao, in the days of its opulence, that many of the commercial expeditions 
of the Portuguese were dispatched to Japan ; and at Macao, too, the church 
of Rome had one of its most powerful ecclesiastical establishments, sustained 
by the dread might of the inquisition, which, in former times, exercised in 
the east the full force of its dark and cruel discipline. Now, however, the 
opulence and enterprise of its merchants are gone, and the awful dominion 
of the haughty ecclesiastics and their bloody tribunal has lapsed into the 
weak hands of a few impoverished priests, who meekly appeal to the pity, 
and barely live upon the bounty, of the reduced Portuguese population. 

Since the construction of vessels of greater draught than those of former 
times, few that visit Macao can enter the inner harbor; it, however, is 
sufficiently deep for those vessels engaged in the coasting trade, sailing under 
the Portuguese flag, and called Lorchas, which are a sort of nondescript of 
curious rig and construction. The Chinese junks are also enabled to enter 
the inner port, as are occasionally a brig or schooner. The storeship South- 
ampton, drawing thirteen and a half feet, anchored inside. Thirteen, and 
at high tides fourteen, feet can be carried into this inner port, and about as 
much into a small harbor opposite the city, called the Typa. It was in the 
Typa that the Portuguese corvette, Don John the Second, was lying when 
blown up, when the United States sloop-of-war Marion, being at anchor near 
by, rendered much service. The Portuguese ship is generally supposed to 
have been blown up purposely by the gunner, who had been punished in the 




^^^^.v?:^ 



CHINESE BARBER, MACAO. 



MACAO AND HONG KONG. 347 

morning by the captain for neglecting some necessary preparation to do 
honor to the day, which was some national anniversary. 

Ships of war and large merchant vessels, resorting to Macao, anchor, as 
has been observed in a previous chapter, in the road, at a distance of from 
three to five miles from the city; this makes the communication with the shore 
at all times inconvenient, and in blowing weather altogether impracticable. 
This, together with other reasons, prompted the Commodore to recommend 
the removal of the naval depot to Hong Kong. Commodore Perry, on this 
subject, gave his views at length, m a communication to the Secretary of the 
Navy. He there stated that, in consideration of the inconvenience .and 
consequent delay, with the increased expense of landing and shipping at 
Macao articles sent from the United States for the use of the squadron, and 
especially the coal, that he at once saw the necessity of having a depot at 
Hong Kong, which had been originally the naval station ; but as, at the time 
of the agitation of the Oregon question, a rupture had been supposed to be / 
imminent with Great Britain, it had been removed. No such troubles now 
threatening, there could be no doubt that government property would be 
safer at Hong Kong than at the badly defended town of Macao. Hong- 
Kong has all the advantages of anchorage, as vessels of the largest size can 
be moored in smooth water, within seven hundred yards of the land, allowing 
of the conveyance of articles of all kinds, in all weather, with great facility, 
from shore to ship, and ship to shore. The only objection to be urged 
against Hong Kong was its unhealthfulness ; but this did not apply to those 
afloat, who were exempt from the evil effects of the injurious causes which 
prevailed on land. Hong Kong has the additional advantage of being the 
market for all the various provisions, which may be required by a naval 
squadron, and has conveniences for the refitment and repair of vessels. 
Pending the action of the naval department, the Commodore made every 
necessary preliminary arrangement, by obtaining depots for coal and other 
supplies at Hong Kong, and then ordered the coal vessels and store ships to 
discharge their freight at that port. 

The Commodore found Macao an exceedingly agreeable place of resi- 
dence, as the picturesque beauties of the country were full of interest, and 
the town, with its pleasant foreign society, presented many attractions. 
During his stay there he made the acquaintance of many of the residents, 
among whom were the families of several of the Canton merchants having 
summer establishments at Macao, to which they are accustomed to retire 
during the hot months, and where they exercise the kindest and most liberal 
hospitality. Monsieur de Bourboulon, the French minister to Canton, had 
a residence at Macao, and with his wife, an American lady, whom he mar- 
ried while secretary of legation at Washington, contributed much towards 
heightening the charms of social intercourse. 

The French commodore, Monsieur de Montravel, came with his squadron 



348 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

and anchored in the outer road, and Commodore Perry had an opportunity 
of forming his acquaintance, and of interchanging with him, as well as with 
Monsieur de Bourboulon, and, indeed, with all the principal residents of 
Macao, those acts of hospitality and kindness which are invariably allied 
to a just appreciation of mutual courtesy. 

With Grovernor Giumaraes, an officer of the Portuguese navy, whom the 
Commodore had met before on the coast of Africa, there were the most 
friendly and intimate relations, as well as with Captain Loreiro, of the same 
service ; and it is due to both these officers to acknowledge their courteous 
deportment in the course of all the official transactions with them. The ut- 
most good feeling prevailed in the intercourse with Sir G-eorge Bonham, the 
British superintendent of affairs in China and governor of Hong Kong, and 
with the military and naval commanders-in-chief, as well as with the manda- 
rins of the country and the local authorities. 

Two events occurred in 1849 at Macao, during the administration of the 
Portuguese Grovernor Amaral, an officer of distinction, and universally es- 
teemed, which, although they were published at the time of their occurrence 
in the Hong Kong newspapers, are still so strikingly illustrative of the fallen 
fortunes and depressed national character of the Portuguese, that it may 
not be amiss in this place to relate them. The first event alluded to, grew 
out of one of those acts of folly which are sometimes exhibited by the ill- 
regulated enthusiasm of fanatics in foreign countries, where the religion 
happens to differ from their own. A young Englishman attached to a mis- 
sionary school at Hong Kong, made a visit to Macao, and shortly after 
landing he espied one of those religious processions so common in Boman 
Catholic countries, in which what is called the Host is conducted with great 
pomp through the principal streets, attended by numerous priests and others 
in full costume, with lighted candles, the swinging of censers, and all the 
rich display of Bomish ecclesiastical ceremony. 

This young man on seeing, for the first time, perhaps, this singular exhibi- 
tion of what to him seemed nothing but an insult to true Christianity, and mak- 
ing, perhaps, not sufficient allowance for differences of opinion and religious 
belief, and for the sincerity, however mistaken, of those of another faith 
than his own, conceived the idea of showing his contempt for such pageant- 
ry. He accordingly placed himself conspicuously in the way of the proces- 
sion, and refused to take off his hat when the Host passed. This act, if un- 
willing, from conscientious motives, to perform, he might have easily avoided 
by turning away and passing down another street. Many Protestants in 
Bomish countries do so. The young man, however, did not act in this very 
obvious and simple manner, by which he might have readily saved his con- 
science, and allowed others who differed from him to act in accordance with 
their views. When the Englishman was observed purposely standing in 
the way of the procession, and covered, he was mildly requested by the 



ENGLISH CONTEMPT OF THE PORTUGUESE. 340 

priests to take off his hat or move away; but so far from complying with 
this request, the young enthusiast pressed his hat closer on his head, and 
stood his ground like a martyr. He was now warned by the armed police 
to uncover or to retire, but being still obstinate, notwithstanding this sum- 
mons, he was arrested and taken to the guard-house. 

Here was now a catastrophe, one of her Majesty's subjects shut up in a 
Portuguese guard-house. The indignation of Captain Keppel, command- 
ing the British man-of-war Dido, then at anchor in Macao roads, was greatly 
aroused, and a demand was immediately made upon Amaral, the Portu- 
guese governor, for an unconditional surrender of the Englishman. The 
governor asked a short delay, for the purpose of consulting the ecclesiasti- 
cal council. In the meantime, a regatta of boats belonging to the United 
States ship Plymouth, and the vessel commanded by Captain Keppel, who 
had been appointed one of the judges, was to take place. Governor Ama- 
ral and many of the garrison officers were also to be present on the occasion. 
The day arrived, and Captain Keppel quietly withdrew himself from the 
rlace, and with a party of marines and some volunteer officers left the outer 
roads, the scene of the regatta, pulled on shore, and landed opposite the house 
of Mr. Patrick Stewart, and thence passing through an unoccupied house and 
garden, in order to avoid the main street, came suddenly upon the guard of 
the garrison, and rushing upon the sentinel, rescued by force the English- 
man whose ill-timed enthusiasm had brought about this military outrage. 

The second incident, to which allusion has been made, was one of equal- 
ly surprising character, and resulted in the death of the governor. It 
appears that Amaral was a man of great energy, and ambitious of improving 
the town of Macao by opening carriage roads through and about its limited 
space. In the governor's attempts to effect these improvements, he was 
charged by the Chinese with desecrating their ancient burial places. He 
had received several obscure hints to the effect that his life was in danger, 
but paid little or no attention to them. In accordance with his usual prac- 
tice, he was riding in the afternoon on the outskirts of the town, the com- 
mon resort of equestrians, accompanied by his aid-de-camp. Lieutenant Leite, 
also on horseback, while a number of other horsemen were not far off, when, 
as he came to a part of the road skirted by a few bushes, a Chinaman, or 
perhaps more, as the number was never exactly ascertained, rushed upon 
him from behind them. The governor's bridle was snatched from his single 
hand, (for he had only one arm, the other having been lost in battle,) and 
he himself dragged from his horse behind the ambuscade of bushes, and his 
head cut off and his hand severed, leaving nothing but his maimed and 
lifeless body for the startled view of the other horsemen who rode up, and 
eagerly but in vain sought after the assassin. No traces were ever discov- 
ered of the dastardly murderer or murderers, and the Portuguese council 
of Macao, in spite of the strictest investigations, could never get any clue 



350 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

to the authors of the crime. The Chinese authorities, however, it was sus- 
pected must have been acquainted with the persons of the villains, as after 
repeated summons of the Portuguese council of Macao the severed head and 
hand of the unfortunate governor were sent to the city. This murder 
occurred only two months after the act of Captain Keppel, which had great- 
ly chagrined the gallant Amaral. 

The engineers having reported, towards the latter end of October, that 
the machinery of the steamer Powhatan was in good working order, she was 
sent to take the place of the Susquehanna. This latter vessel had previous- 
ly relieved the Mississippi at Whampoa. Each steamer in turn dispatched 
an oflficer of marines with a competent guard and one of the boat howitzers 
to remain at Canton during her stay at Whampoa. The guard was sta- 
tioned on board the Supply, then lying off the town, while the officer was a 
guest at the house of some one or other of the American merchants, that 
he might be in readiness in case of any disturbance at night. All this 
time, however, there was not the slightest incident that could in any degree 
justify an opinion that a revolt was seriously contemplated by the Chinese 
people, and up to the day of the departure everything remained as quiet in 
Canton as at the moment of first sending vessels and a guard to the city. 
Nor had there been any outbreak, at either of the consular cities, which had 
in the least affected Americans or foreigners of whatever nation, during the 
presence of the squadron on the Chinese coast. 

However the Chinese may have quarrelled among themselves and cut 
each other's throats, not a foreigner conducting himself properly had been 
in the least degree molested. Before leaving the Chinese coast. Commodore 
Perry had succeeded in establishing the most cordial understanding with 
the Canton merchants, and in consideration of the necessity of withdraw- 
ing the Supply from that city and the Powhatan from Whampoa, had 
determined, at the request of the merchants, to assume the responsibility 
of hiring and arming a small steamer for the protection of the American 
residents during his absence. Conformably to this determination, the Com- 
modore chartered a new and very suitable vessel, the steamboat Queen, for 
six months, at five hundred dollars a month, with a privilege of extending 
the term of engagement at the same rate of hire. To this steamer was 
assigned a sufficient armament, and the command was given to Lieutenant 
Alfred Taylor, of the Mississippi, with such complement of officers, engi- 
neers, sailors, and firemen, as could be spared from the squadroa The 
Commodore had the satisfaction of receiving from the leading American 
merchants a communication, in which it was stated that there seemed no 
immediate danger of an attack, and which contained an expression of satis- 
faction at the provision made by the Commodore for the protection of their 
interests during his absence. 

About the close of November, the French commodore in the frigate 



DEPARTURE FOR LEW CHEW. 351 

Coustantine, then lying at Macao, suddenly put to sea under sealed orders. 
It was at the time well known, that in a day or two he was to have depart- 
ed for Shanghai with the French minister. Monsieur de Bourboulon, and wife, 
as passengers, but on the arrival of the mail from Europe he hurried away 
without any one knowing in what direction. The Russian admiral, Pontia- 
tine, in the frigate Pallas, and with three other vessels, was at this time at 
Shanghai, having just arrived from Nagasaki. The Commodore, suspecting 
that the Russians contemplated the design of returning to Japan and of 
ultimately going to Yedo, which might seriously interfere with his opera- 
tions, and suspecting also that the same place was the destination of the 
French Commodore, became very anxious for the arrival of tL.e storeship 
Lexington with some articles for presents on board. He determined, there- 
fore, rather than allow either the Russians or the French to gain an advan- 
tage over him, to encounter all the inconveniences and exposure of a cruise 
to Japan in mid-winter. Nor was he to be deterred from his purpose by 
the terrible accounts given by writers of the storms, fogs, and other dangers 
to be met with on the inhospitable Japanese coasts during the inclement 
season. 

It had been originally the intention of the Commodore to wait until the 
spring had set in before going to the north, but the suspicion of the move- 
ments of the French and Russians induced him to alter his plans. The 
expected Lexington having fortunately arrived, after an unusually long 
passage, she was ordered to Hong Kong, there to land such part of her 
cargo as would not be required for the Japan service, and to take on board, 
in place of what she might discharge there, four hundred tons of coah 
This being accomplished, the Commodore sailed from Hong Kong in the 
Susquehanna, on the 14th of January, 1854, for Lew Chew, in company 
with the Powhatan, Mississippi, and the storeships Lexington and South- 
ampton, the two latter being respectively in tow of the steamers ; the 
Macedonian and Supply, having been a few days before dispatched for Lew 
Chew, there to join the Yandalia. The Plymouth was at Shanghai, and 
the Saratoga had orders to meet the squadron at Lew Chew. 

On the very day and at the precise hour of the Commodore's sailing, the 
steamer arrived with the overland mail, bringing precise instructions from 
the Navy Department to detach one of the steamers from the Japan expe- 
dition, and place her at the disposal of the Hon. Mr. McLane, recently 
appointed commissioner to China, and then soon expected to arrive from 
the United States. As these orders caused Commodore Perry great em- 
barrassment, and would, if executed, sensibly delay his plans and interfere 
with the success of his mission, he determined not to act upon them imme- 
diately and thus weaken his force, but to wait until he had made a prelim- 
inary demonstration in Yedo bay. 

The Commodore was somewhat surprised to learn from Sir George Bon- 



352 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

ham, a few days prior to his leaving Hong Kong, that his visit to the Bonin 
Islands had attracted the attention of the British government. Sir Greorge 
had called on board the Susquehanna to confer with the Commodore upon 
the subject, stating that he had been instructed by Lord Clarendon, then 
minister of foreign affairs, to ask of him some explanations of his designs. 
The Commodore, in answer, declared his willingness to communicate to Sir 
Greorge Bonham the information he desired, and accordingly gave him ver- 
bally to understand his objects, but at the same time suggested that he would 
prefer to have the purport of their conversation put in writing. To this 
proposition Sir George immediately assented, and the following day he 
wrote a letter recapitulating what he had already personally stated, to 
which the Commodore replied.* 

* SuPERiNTENDENCY OF Trade, Hong Kong, December 22, 1853. 
SiK : With reference to my interview with yonr excellency, respecting your visit to the 
Bonin Islands, and to your proposal that I should address you officially on this suhject, I 
have now the honor to enclose, for your information, copy of a letter and its enclosures from 
a Mr. Simpson, wherein it is stated that you have purchased ground from a resident there 
for a coal depot, for the use of the government of the United States of America. 

After our conversation yesterday your excellency will, I am sure, clearly understand that 
it is not my desire nor intention to dispute your right, or that of any other person, to pur- 
chase land on the Bonin Islands ; hut as it is generally understood that this group was some 
time ago taken possession of in the name of the government of Great Britain, I think it de- 
sir ahle to acquaint your excellency therewith, in an official form, that you may, should 
you see fit, favor me with an explanation of the circumstances referred to hy Mr. Simpson. 
I have the honor to be, sir, your excellency's most ohedient humble servant, 

J. G. BONHAM. 
His Excellency Commodore Perry, United States navy, Sfc, 

United States Steamship Susquehanna, 



Beattley, Invernesshire, October 1, 1853. 
My Lord : I observe it stated m the public prints that the officer commanding the Uni- 
ted States Japan expedition had touched at the Bonin group — that he had made purchase 
from a resident there of land for a government coal depot. 

Permit me to call your lordship's attention to the fact that this group of islands, so ad- 
vantageously situated for opening up intercourse with Japan, really appertains to Great Bri- 
tain. 

Having had some connexion with it while acting temporarily for her Majesty's govern- 
ment in the South Seas, its importance was impressed upon my mind ; and I respectfully 
bring under your lordship's notice the particulars which will be found narrated in the en- 
closure herewith. 

I have, &c., 

ALEX. SIMPSON. 
True copy : H. N. LAY. 

Lord Glakendon, &c., &c., &c. 



THE BONIN ISLAND CORRESPONDENCE. 353 

The following are the copies of the letter of the Navy Department and 
the Commodore's answer, which latter was necessarily hurried, as it was 
written and dispatched by the pilot after the squadron was fairly under way 
and standing out of port : 

Secretary of the Navy to Commodore Perry. 

Navy Department, October 28, 1853. 
Sir : For some months past, the department indulged the hope of being 
able to dispatch a steamer to China, to be at the service of the commissioner 
representing our government, and to afford him facilities for accomplishing 

Extract from a pamphlet published by the writer in 1843. 

THE BONIN ISLANDS. 

" WoAHOo, Sandwich Islands, December 27, 1842. 

" This small but interesting, and, from its situation, valuable group of islands lies in 
latitude 27° north, longitude 146° east, within five hundred miles distance from the city of 
Jedo, in Japan. 

" It appertains to Great Britain, having been discovered by an English whaling vessel 
in 1825, and formally taken possession of by Captain Beechey, of her Majesty's ship ' Blos- 
som,' in 1827. There were no aboriginal inhabitants found on the islands, nor any trace 
that such had ever existed. 

" Their aggregate extent does not exceed two hundred and fifty square miles ; but their 
geographical position — so near Japan, that mysterious empire, of which the trade will one 
day be of immense value — gives them a peculiar importance and interest. The climate is 
excellent, the soil rich and productive, and there is an admirable harbor, well fitted for the 
port of a commercial city. 

" The first colonists of this eastern group were two men of the names of Millichamp 
and Mazarro, who, having expressed to Mr. Charlton, the British consul at the Sandwich 
Islands, their wish to settle on some uninhabited island in the Pacific Ocean, were by him 
recommended to go to this group, of the discovery and taking possession of which he had 
been recently informed. They sailed accordingly, in 1830, took with them some Sandwich 
Island natives as laborers, some live stock and seeds, and landing at Port Lloyd, hoisted 
an Enghsh flag which had been given to them by Mr. Charlton. 

" The Httle settlement has been visited by several whaling vessels since that period, and 
also by a vessel from the British China squadron. Mr. Milhchamp returned to England, 
and Mr. Mazarro, anxious to get additional settlers or laborers to join the infant colony, 
the whole population of which only numbers about twenty, came to the Sandwich Islands 
in the autumn of 1842 in an Enghsh whaling vessel. He described the little settlement as 
flourishing, stated that he had hogs and goats in abundance and a few cattle ; that he grew 
Indian com and many vegetables, and had all kinds of tropical fruits ; that, in fact, he 
could supply fresh provisions and vegetables to forty vessels annually. 

" Mr. Mazarro, who, in virtue of his first arrival, receives the appellation of governor, 
finds the task of governing even this little colony no easy matter. He applied to me for 
assistance in this task, and thankfully received the following document, which I drew up 
for his assistance and moral support : — 

" ' I hereby certify that Mr. Matthew Mazarro was one of the original leaders of the 
23 



354 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

the great purposes of his mission, rendered much more interesting and im 
portant by the startling revolutionary movements in that country. The 
United States steamer Princeton was especially set apart for that purpose. 
But the steamers Princeton, San Jacinto, and Alleghany, have all proved 
miserable failures. This accounts, therefore, for the delay of a previous 
order similar to this. 

The President trusts that it may not seriously incommode your operations, 
in regard to Japan, to co-operate with our commissioner in the interesting 
undertaking to bring about free intercourse with the government of China ; 
to form commercial treaties of vast benefit to the American people, and in- 
troduce a new era in the history of trade and commerce. 

The mission in which you are engaged has attracted much admiration, 
and excited much expectation. But the present seems to be a crisis in the 

expedition fitted up from this port, under the protection of Richard Charlton, Esq., her 
Majesty's consul, to colonize the Bonin Islands ; and I would intimate to the masters of all 
■whaling vessels touching at that group, that the said Mazarro is a soher and discreet man, 
and recommend them to support him hy all means in their power against the troubles of 
the peace of that distant settlement, recommending, also, to the settlers to receive Mr. 
Mazarro as their head, until some officer directly appointed by her Britannic Majesty is 
placed over them.' 

"ALEX. SIMPSON, 
" S". B. M. Acting Consul for the Sandmch Islands. 

" God save the queen. 

" A small body of enterprising emigrants would find this group a most admirable place 
for settlement. Its colonization, indeed, I consider to be a national object." 

True copy : H. N. LAY. 



United States Steam Frigate Susquehanna, 

Il(mg Kong^ December 23, 1853. 

Sir : Beferring to the conversation which I yesterday had the honor of holding with 
your excellency, as also to your written communication, with accompanying papers, this 
moment received, I beg to remark that the account given by Mr. Simpson is far from being 
coirect. 

That gentleman has forgotten to name all the white persons who embarked in the en- 
terprise to form a settlement upon Peel Island. The names and places of birth of these 
men may be enumerated as follows : — 

Mateo Mazarro, the leader, a native of Genoa ; Nathaniel Savory, bom in Massachu- 
setts, United States ; Alden B. Chapin, also a native of Massachusetts ; John Millechamp, 
a Britifih subject, and Charles Johnson, a Dane. 

These five men, accompanied by about twenty-five or thirty natives of the Sandwich 
'Islands, male and female, landed at Port Lloyd in the summer of 1830. Of the whites, 
Nathaniel Savory is the only one remaining on the island. Mazarro, Chapin, and John- 
son, are dead, as I am informed ; and MiUechamp is now residing at Guam, one of the La- 
• ^'one group. 



THE BONIN ISLAND CORKESPONDENCE. 355 

history of China, and is considered by many as throwing around China, at 
least, as much interest and attraction as Japan presents. 

To have your name associated with the opening of commercial intercourse 
with Japan may well excite your pride ; but to be identified, also, with the 
great events that we trust may yet transpire in connection with China, 
may be well esteemed a privilege and an honor. 

Hoping that it may not interfere seriously with your plan of operations, 
you will, on receipt of this communication, immediately dispatch one of the 
war steamers of your squadron to Macao, to meet the Hon. R. M. McLane, 
our commissioner to China, to be subject to his control until other orders 
reach you. Mr. McLane will bear with him further instructions to you. 
In the meantime, however, you will act as heretofore in the matter of your 
mission — only dispatching the vessel as above mentioned. Mr. McLane will 
probably leave on the 19th proximo. 

It would, therefore, appear, that so far as the nationality of the settlers could apply to 
the question of sovereignty, the Americans were as two to one, compared with the three 
others, who were subjects of different sovereigns. 

Since the first occupation of the island, the early settlers have been occasionally joined 
by white persons landing from whaling ships, some few of whom have remained ; and, at 
the time of my -sdsit there were, I think, about eight whites in the settlement. 

These people, after my departure, met together and established a form of municipal 
government, electing Nathaniel Savory their chief magistrate, and James Maitley and 
Thomas H. "Webb, councilmen. 

With respect to any claim of sovereignty that may be founded upon the right of pre- 
vious discovery, there is abundant evidence to prove that these islands were known to navi- 
gators as early as the middle of the sixteenth century, and were visited by the Japanese 
in 1675, who gave them the name of " Bune Sima." — (See enclosed extracts.) 

In 1823, three years before the visit of Captain Beechey, in H. M. ship " Blossom," the 
group was visited by a Captain Coffin, in the American whaling ship " Transit." * 

Thus it is plainly shown that the government of her Britannic Majesty cannot claim 
the sovereignty upon the ground of discovery, and it only remains to determine how far 
this right may be derived from the ceremony performed by Captain Beechey. 

But these are matters only to be discussed by our respective governments, and I refer 
to them now merely in explanation of our conversation of yesterday. 

With respect to my purchase of a piece of ground from Nathaniel Savory, though con- 
ceiving myself in no way bound to explain such arrangement, I do not hesitate, in all due 
courtesy, to say, that the transaction was one of a strictly private character. 

In acquiring the fee of the land, I had not the slightest idea of personal profit, but 
made the purchase for a legitimate object, and to withhold the only suitable position in the 
harbor for a coal depot from the venality of unprincipled speculators, who might otherwise 
have gained possession of it for purposes of extortion. 

And now let me assure your excellency, that the course pursued by me has been influ- 
enced solely by a settled conviction of the necessity of securing ports of refuge and sup- 

* I have ascertained the name of this vessel from a Captain Morris, commanding an American whaling 
ship now in this port. 

Since the above was written, the Commodore has taken pains to procure evidence, that CoflQn was bom 
in the United States. As to the ship, he has no further testimony than that stated above. 



356 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

Your very interesting dispatclies of 25th June last have been received, 
and the department is much gratified with your successful operations thus 
far, and indulges the hope, that in regard to Japan and China there is in 
store for you much additional honor and fame. 

I am, very respectfully, your obedient servant, * 

J. C. DOBBIN. 
Commodore M. C. Perry, 

Commanding United States Squadron^ East India and China Seas 



Commodore Perry to the Secretary of the Navy. 

United States Steam Frigate Susquehanna, 
Hong Kong, January 14, 1855. 

Sir : On the eve of getting under way for Japan, with all my arrange- 
ments made to leave in an hour, and a large portion of my force actually 
gone, I am placed in possession of the letter of the department of the 28th 
of October, (which arrived by the mail of last night,) directing me, under 
certain views of the government with respect to China, to detach one of the 
steamers of my command, to be placed at the disposal of Mr. K. M. McLane, 
recently appointed Commissioner to China. 

Such an arrangement, at this moment, would be seriously inconvenient 
and highly injurious to my plans, the execution of which has already com- 
plies in the north Pacific for our whaling ships, and a line of mail steamers, which sooner 
or later must be estabhshed between California and China. 

I have no special instructions from my government upon the subject, and am yet to 
learn whether my acts will be approved. 

The recognized sovereignty of these islands would only entail an expense upon the 
power undertaking their occupancy and protection, and whether they may ultimately fall 
under the American, the English, or a local flag, would be a question of Httle importance, 
so long as their ports were open to the hospitable reception of all nations seeking shelter 
and refreshment. 

And I may venture further to remark, that it would seem to be the policy, as well of 
England as of the United States, to aid in every possible way in the accomplishment of an 
arrangement that would fill up the remaining link of the great mail route of the world, 
and thus furnish the means of establishing a semi-monthly communication around the en- 
tire globe. 

With great respect, I have the honor to be your most obedient servant, 

M. C. PERRY, 
Commander-in-Chief United States naval forces, East India, China, and Japan seas. 

His Excellency Sir I. Georgk Bonham, Bart., 

H. B. M. Chief Superintendent of Trade, Hong Kong. 



ARRIVAL OF PRESENTS. 357 

menced ; indeed, it could not be done at this time without deranging the 
operations of the squadron — so intimately are the steamers connected with 
each other ; and I feel assured that, if the department could be made ac- 
quainted with the true state of things, and the importance of my carrying 
the three steamers with me to Japan, as it now knows of the events of my 
former visit to that Empire, it would at once revoke the order ; but, as it 
is my duty to obey, though it cannot be done at this moment without serious 
consequences to the success of my mission, I will detach one of the steamers 
from the Bay of Yedo, and send her to Macao, where she can only be of 
use in contributing to the convenience of the commissioner, as her great 
draught of water will render it impossible to ascend, for any useful purpose, 
the rivers in China. 

My various letters to the department will, I think, demonstrate the 
correctness of this assertion. However, I have no alternative, though I 
cannot but express the deep disappointment and mortification to which I am 
subjected. 

Although Mr. McLane may not find a steamer waiting for him at Macao 
when he arrives, I will order her to the coast of China the moment I can 
do so consistently with the public interests. 

I am sure the department will not object to the exercise of this discre- 
tion — no possible inconvenience can arise from the delay. Mr. McLane may 
probably be detained some time in Europe, and the steamer may be back in 
time to meet him, and before he will be prepared to act. 

I must confess that this order has damped my hopes very much, but I 
will do the best I can. 

I am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, 

M. C. PERRY, 
Commander-in-chief of United States Naval Forces 

in the East India, China and Ja^an Seas. 
Hon. James C. Dobbin, 

Secretary of the Navy, Washington. 

The English mail-steamer, which had arrived just before the departure 
of the squadron, had brought the cases and packages expected from Paris, 
containing presents for the Japanese, but too late to be taken on board any 
of the ships. They were therefore passed over to the care of some com- 
mercial friends at Canton, who were requested to send them to Shanghai by 
Her Majesty's steamer the Rattler, to sail for that place two days after the 
Commodore's departure, and on board of which they were to be received by 
the polite permission of Admiral Pellew. They were to be shipped then in 
the Saratoga, which would carry them to Lew Chew, where, we may add, 
they were duly received in time for the second expedition to Japan. 

The squadron having set sail from Hong Kong, the course was directed 



358 



XPEDITION TO JAPAN. 



through Lymoon passage. It was thought desirable to get well to the north- 
ward before striking over for the south end of Formosa. The northeasterly 
current, which is constantly setting with great rapidity round the south end 
of this island, and with decreased velocity along its eastern coast, was 
especially noticed during the voyage, and careful observations, the results 
of which will be given in a future chapter, were made upon its force, direc- 
tion, and other characteristics, which resemble remarkably those of the gulf 
stream on our own coast. The monsoon fortunately not having been very 
strong, a very favorable passage was made, with the two store ships in tow, 
as far as the northeastern point of Formosa, when they were cast off, with 
orders to follow the steamers to Napha, where the latter arrived on the 20th 
of January, and the former on the twenty-fourth of the same month. Here 
were found the Macedonian, Yandalia, and Supply. The Saratoga, however, 
had not yet made her appearance. 




View on the Pack-slian River. 



CHAPTER XVII 



Increased cordiality and friendly intercourse on the part of the Lew Chewans. — Second visit of the Com- 
modore to the palace at Shui. — Entertainment by the Eegent. — No metallic coin of Lew Chew to be 
obtained.— Rer. Mr. Jones' second exploration in search of coal.— Finds it at Shah bay.— The mineral 
not valued by the natives. — Additional geological observations in Lew Chew. — Remarkable salubrity 
of the island. — Tenure of lands. — Agi-iculture. — Rice, potatoes, sugar, cotton, wheat, barley, millet, 
sago, beans, peas, tobacco, edible roots, fruits, trees, flowers, etc. — Sugar mills. — Grain mills and gra- 
naries. — Population. — Ethnology.— Costume. — Politeness of manner.— General intelligence. — Archi- 
tecture. — Rude attempts in painting and sculpture. — Amusements. — Government. — Religion. — Fu- 
neral rites.— Japanese spies in Lew Chew.— Departure for the bay of Yedo. 



IX montlis had passed since 
the Commodore's last depar- 
ture from Lew Chew, and 
now, on his fourth visit to 
that interesting island, he 
observed a very marked 
change in the conduct of the 
Lew Chewans towards the 
Americans. The authorities 
readily furnished whatever 
was required, and received a 
due price for it, seemingly as 
a matter of course, while the 
people had evidently thrown 
off somewhat of their reserve, 
and were more disposed to 
a friendly intercourse. The 
men in the street grew quite 
familiar with the sight of the strangers, and did not avoid them, while the 
women, even, no longer fled from the market places, but remained in charge 
of their stalls, apparently unmindful of the foreign intruders. 

The Commodore, soon after his arrival, gave notice to the regent that it 
was his intention before leaving Napha to visit the palace of Shui for the 
second time, thinking it not amiss, as the Lew Chewans seemed to be gradu- 




360 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

ally yielding to American intercourse, to weaken by repetition the very 
strong opposition at first evinced to opening the gates of the royal residence 
to foreign visitors. The regent, however, still exhibited a very decided aver- 
sion to the admission of the Commodore within the sacred walls of the 
palace, and in a courteous communication, expressed a willingness to receive 
him, but a very strong preference for Napha as the place of reception. The 
Commodore, however, holding to his original intention, declared, in answer, 
that it would be far more respectful toward the empire of Lew Chew to go 
to the royal palace, and added that he would expect .hat horses, kagos, and 
kago-bearers should be in readiness to carry him and his attending party on 
the day proposed for the visit. 

The regent was prepared to meet this demand with all the usual variety 
of objections, in accordance with the crooked Lew Chewan policy, but they 
were answered by the Commodore's repetition of his original resolve. 

The regent accordingly put the best face possible on the matter, and 
made all the necessary preparations ; and when the Commodore, on the 3rd 
of February, carried his intentions into execution, he was received with all 
proper respect and the usual courtesies. He paid his first visit, as on a 
previous occasion, to the palace, accompanied by a military guard and a 
suite of ojQBcers, and was received with the same formal ceremonies. Imme- 
diately after, as on a former visit, the party proceeded to the regent's house, 
where they found a handsome feast in preparation, to which the Americans, 
having now somewhat accustomed their palates to the Lew Chewan cookery, 
succeeded in doing better justice than on the previous occasion. In the 
course of the entertainment the Commodore informed the regent that he was 
desirous of obtaining for the United States mint, in exchange for American 
coinage of equal value, all coins in use on the island ; as it was well known 
that the imperial money of Japan was in circulation in Lew Chew, although 
it had hitherto been carefully concealed. Both the regent and the pe-ching 
or treasurer declared that there were no coins in the island, except a few in 
the possession of the Japanese residents, who would not part with them. 
This declaration the Commodore was inclined to believe to be, like most of 
their very positive assertions, false, and he therefore urged upon them a com- 
pliance with his request, and left with them a certain number of American 
coins, of about fifty dollars in value. The Commodore, at the same time, 
stated that he should expect to receive a number of Japanese or Lew Chew 
coins in exchange before his departure. The subject was then dropped; but 
just on the eve of the squadron's sailing, a formal communication was re- 
ceived from the authorities in the name of Shang-Hyung-Hiun, superintend- 
ent of affairs in the Middle Hill prefecture, in the kingdom of Lew Chew, 
high minister, and Ma-Liang-tsai, treasurer, in which document it was stated, 
that on several occasions demands had been made for an exchange of Japan 
coins for American, but that it was impossible to comply. 



FARTHER EXPLORATION OF LEW CHEW. 3C1 

The reasons given were that all the commercial transactions between Lew 
Chew and Japan were carried on by the interchange of commodities, and not 
by the use of coin. That all the gold and silver used by the Lew Chewans 
themselves for their hair pins were obtained from China. That although 
every effort had been made to obtain Japanese coins by careful investigations 
among those in Lew Chew engaged in trade with Japan, it had been in vain, 
as the Japanese strictly forbade by law the exportation of their money, and 
that none could accordingly be brought into the island. With this docu- 
ment the authorities returned the American coin that had been deposited 
with them, but as the Commodore refused to receive it, it was left in their 
possession. 

At the end of the regent's banquet each of the guests was presented, on 
leaving the hall, with a red card, which was understood to entitle the holder, 
at Napha, to refreshments and other privileges. This was a curious prac- 
tice, the object of which seemed to extend the entertainment, and was a very 
creditable picture of Lew Chewan hospitality, as it appeared to give it an 
indefinite duration. 

Exploring parties had been early dispatched to make further investiga- 
tions of the condition and resources of the island. These investigations 
were directed chiefly to the examination of the geological formation, the 
nature of the soil, and the mineralogical and agricultural resources of Lew 
Chew. The officers selected for the various duties were Chaplain Jones and 
several of the surgeons, whose studies and tastes were supposed to fit them 
especially for making those observations, which had more or less a scientific 
bearing. 

The chaplain concentrated his investigations upon the resources of the 
island in regard to coal, and the result seemed to prove the interesting and 
important fact of the existence, at Shah bay, of that combustible, a supply 
of which might be readily obtained by proper mining. The natives do not 
seem conscious of the presence of this valuable mineral in their island ; they 
remain, probably, totally unacquainted with its uses. 

In the geological features of the island of Lew Chew, the first peculiar- 
ity that strikes the eye are the great masses of coral rock abounding every- 
where, even on the tops of the highest mountains, four or five hundred feet 
above the level of the sea. The steep promontories along the coast are 
generally composed of gneiss, while in the interior some of the loftier emi- 
nences show strata of slate. The base of the island is of the two combined, 
upon which the coral zoophite has built its structures, which by some 
internal convulsion have been upheaved to their present height. The soil on 
the surface is composed of the detritus of coral and decomposed vegetable 
and animal remains. As the streams are free of lime, it is conjectured that 
their springs take their origin from, and their currents flow through, those 
strata which are below the coral formation. 



362 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

The soil varies in accordance with the face of the country, being ricl: 
and fertile in the valleys and plains, and comparatively poor upon the moun- 
tain tops and their acclivities. The climate is generally favorable to culture, 
though droughts are said occasionally to occur, and the island must suffer from 
the typhoons, being in the direct range of their ordinary occurrence. The 
climate is undoubtedly highly favorable also to health, as may be inferred, 
not only from the condition of the inhabitants but the topographical charac- 
teristics of the island. The entire absence of marshes, together with the 
pure air constantly wafted over the land in the breezes from the surrounding 
sea, must exempt it from all miasmatic disease. Although situated near the 
tropics, the heat is so tempered by the sea winds and the elevation of the 
land, that it is never excessive. 

All the land in Lew Chew is held by government and rented to large 
tenants, who, in their turn, sub-let it to smaller ones, who are the direct 
cultivators of the soil. The system of cultivation is rude and primitive, 
being performed by the hands of men and women, with the occasional aid, 
however, of the horse and bull. A rude kind of plough, chiefly made of 
wood but tipped with an iron point, and of the old Roman model, is used. 
They have harrows, hoes, sickles, and axes, but all of simple and awkward 
construction. They have but small supplies of iron and evidently employ it 
with a very strict regard to economy. 

As rice is one of the chief products of Lew Chew and requires abundant 
supplies of water, a very extensive system of irrigation is carried on. The 
ground is arranged in a series of terraces which succeed each other, from the 
acclivities of the hills down to the bottoms of the valleys, and the water of 
the neighboring streams is directed into them from the sides by means of 
ditches and conduits. There are no dams, properly so called, but the irriga- 
tion is so graduated by means of the terrace-like arrangement of the land 
that the supply of water is gradual, and never in such excess as to produce 
any of the ill effects of flooding or surface washing. The land, generally, is 
divided into small allotments appropriated to single individuals, so that the 
surface of the country has rather the appearance of being divided into highly 
cultivated gardens than overspread with fertile fields. In preparing the land 
for the cultivation of rice it is first overflowed, and then the laborer, who 
goes to work knee deep into the mud and water, hoes it into furrows. The 
plough is used subsequently for further loosening the soil, and is followed by 
the application of the harrow. All this process is carried on while the land 
is overflowed, and although this is considered by our agriculturists as the 
very worst kind of farming, it seems very well adapted to Lew Chewan 
husbandry with its inferior implements. The rice is not sown broad-cast 
over the fields, but first grown in plots and then transplanted by hand. The 
water was observed always covering the fields, but it was not ascertained 
whether it was ever drawn off, probably, however, not until the harvest, 






iiM 



Mi 



illillll 



%: 










AGRICULTURE OF LEW CHEW. 363 

which takes place before the rice is " dead ripe." When this occurs the 
plants are cut, gathered into bundles, and then spread out to dry in the air 
and sun. The product gives something like twenty bushels to the acre, and 
the head of the grain is remarkably large and full, in consequence, probably, 
of the mode of growth by transplantation. The rice fields probably yield 
two crops annually, with an alternation of a supply of taro or sweet potatoes, 
both of which are extensively cultivated. Sugar cane, wheat, cotton, barley 
in small quantities, tobacco, several varieties of millet, sago, beans, peanuts, 
turnips, peas, radishes of very large size, some being three feet in length and 
twelve inches in circumference, egg-plants, onions, and cucumbers, are all 
found growing in the island. Of fruits there are the peach, the watermelon, the 
banana, the wild raspberry, and the fig. Grass is not cultivated, but some 
wild and coarse varieties are occasionally seen. It might be supposed by the 
casual observer, from the beautiful aspect presented by the rich growth of 
the island, that the variety of the vegetable kingdom is very great. Close 
investigation, however, proves the reverse, for there is a remarkable same- 
ness pervading nearly the whole country from north to south. The flora in 
some respects present a tropical appearance, but not so much so as might be 
expected from the position of the island as compared with some others hav- 
ing a higher latitude. The trees that are most abundant, are the pine and 
the banyan, (ficus indica,) but as these are found growing in regular lines along 
the highways, forming beautiful avenues, leading to the tombs and villages, 
it is reasonable to suppose that they have been planted. The banyan is 
particularly abundant and is much used for hedges, being planted on the 
tops of the coral walls which surround the houses, and pruned and cut into 
symmetrical forms. The vegetable ivory tree, the ebony, the mulberry, 
several varieties of the palm, the orange, the lemon, and the banana, are all 
found, but many of them are evidently not indigenous. Of flowers there is 
the camelia, which grows wild and bears a beautiful pink blossom, the 
dahlia, the morning glory, the marsh mallow, the hibiscus, and some few 
others. 

The bamboo, which grows abundantly, is of the greatest use to the 
inhabitants, supplying them with food, with material for clothing and for 
building, and, when in its natural stateliness of growth, with a beautiful 
shade for their houses and villages. The ferns are exceedingly fine upon 
the island, and some of them are of the large and spreading tree variety. 
The agriculture of the island, though of the simplest character, as we have 
seen, yet seems to answer its purpose admirably. Of the five hundred 
thousand acres, embraced by the whole area of Great Lew Chew, one eighth 
at least is under cultivation, producing, it is supposed, about two hundred 
thousand bushels of rice, fifty thousand bushels of wheat, with the additional 
product of thirty-five thousand acres of sweet potatoes, two thousand acres 
of sugar cane, and a considerable number of acres of beans, taro, and other 



364 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

kinds of grain and vegetables. The implements of labor, as has been 
observed, are rude in construction, but are handled with great skill and 
effect. The agricultural machinery is simple in principle but generally effec- 
tive. The sugar mills consist of three cylinders of hard wood, supported in 
an upright position by means of a wooden frame. The cylinders are about 
a foot in diameter, and are arranged in a row, with a mortice beeween them 
to regulate the approach and their pressure upon the cane. The central one 
has a wooden axle or shaft extending through the frame which supports it, to 
which is attached a curved lever of fifteen feet in length, by which the mill 
is readily worked. This central cylinder has a row of cogs of hard wood 
near the upper end, which play into mortices cut into each of the two other 
cylinders. A single bull or horse is generally used to work the mill, and 
the animal moves in a circuit of about thirty feet in diameter. The cane is 
placed first between the central and right cylinders, and before its escape it 
is caught by the hand of the workman and, being twisted like a rope, is thrust 
in between the central and left cylinders, by which it is completely crushed 
and its juice expressed, which flows through gutters into a tub, placed in a 
hole near by. The juice is then conveyed to neighboring houses, tempo- 
rarily constructed for the purpose, and there boiled in iron pans containing 
about eight or ten gallons. What use is made of all the sugar it is difficult 
to understand, as the common beverage, which is tea, is never sweetened. 

It probably is kept as a delicacy for the palates of the higher classes, who 
delight in sweetmeats and other confections of sugar, or sent as an export or 
tribute to Japan. In spite of an abundant product, sugar is evidently a 
scarce article among the common people, for one of the interpreters begged 
some from the Americans, as if he esteemed it a rare luxury. The refuse 
cane, after being pressed, (baggass, as we call it,) is carefully dried and used 
as fuel. The Lew Che wans have also mills for the grinding of grain. These 
are made of excellent millstones, and are worked by hand. The flour, how- 
ever, remains unbolted, but makes a good and sweet bread. The granaries are 
marked objects in every village throughout the island. They are generally 
constructed of either woven cane or wood, and in a square form, increasing in 
width from their base, which is supported upon posts placed upon stones, to 
their tops, which is covered with a rice straw thatch. They have the advan- 
tage of being well ventilated and protected from vermin, of which, especially 
of rats, there is a great abundance. These granaries often contain as much 
as five hundred bushels, and as they are grouped together in numbers, 
amounting sometimes to nearly a score, they are supposed to be the property 
of the government. 

The population of Great Lew Chew must amount to between one 
hundred and fifty and two hundred thousand, since there are two large 
cities, those of Napha and Shui, and some thirty-six towns beside, with an 
average of about six thousand people each. The island seems to be peopled 



ORIGIN OF LEW CHEWANS. 365 

"by two distinct races, the Japanese and the Lew Chewan, properly so called. 
They both have originally sprung, however, from the same stock. It has 
been supposed by some that the Lew Chewan people are chiefly allied to the 
Tagallas, a race which is spread over the Phillipine, Marian, and other Pa- 
cific islands, and which originally sprang from the Malays. There is, how- 
ever, no affinity between the Lew Chew, Malay, and Tagalla languages, nor 
are the relations of their physical peculiarities such as to favor the opinion 
of a common origin. From the discovery, during the exploration of the 
island, of some remains of ancient Hindoo worship, it was surmised that the 
Lew Chewans might possibly have been originally a colony from southern 
Asia. Whether these remains are the relics of a people living in Lew Chew 
previous to the present races, or only the vestiges of a religion once held by 
one of the present existing races, but now supplanted by the wide-spreading 
Buddhism, it is not easy to decide. Dr. Fahs, however, (to whom, together 
with his associate. Dr. Green, we are indebted for the principal facts of this 
chapter,) inclines to the belief that the Hindoo idolatry was introduced di- 
rectly by means of priests coming from India as missionaries, or through the 
medium of the commercial intercourse which has, in all ages, existed between 
eastern nations. 

The Japanese and the Lew Chewans differ slightly from each other, the lat- 
ter being more effeminate and somewhat less intelligent, but this may be 
owing to their simple, retired life, upon a remote island, where their wants 
are few, and nature is generous. They have, however, such strong resem- 
blances that it is almost impossible to resist the conviction of their sameness 
of origin. They have both the same height, and very similar features. In 
both, the head is oval, approaching in form that of the European, the frontal 
bones rounded, and the forehead high, the face oval, and the general expres- 
sion mild and amiable, the eyes large and animated, though more so in the 
Japanese than in the Lew Chewans, the irides in both are dark brown or 
black, the lashes long, and the eyebrows rather heavy and arched. 

The long angular form of the internal canthus of the eye is seldom seen, 
either in the Japanese or Lew Chewan. The nose in each is generally 
handsome, and well proportioned to the other features ; the root of it is not 
depressed, as in the Chinese or Malay, and the nostrils are not so widely di- 
lated. The cheek bones are not very prominent, and consequently there is a 
want of that squareness of face which is so remarkable in some eastern races. 
The mouth is rather large, the teeth broad, very white and strong, and the 
chin neatly cut. One mark the Japanese and Lew Chewans have in common 
to distinguish them from the Malay or Chinaman ; it is the possession of a 
strong black beard, which both the latter are destitute of to any extent. In 
other parts of the body the same conformity of organization exists in the Lew 
Chewan and Japanese. 

But it is not in mere physical conformity that we trace the same origin 



366 



EXPEDITION TO JAPAN 



of both races. The identity of the two races is proved by the more satisfac- 
tory testimony of affinity of language. Dr. Fahs, while preparing his report 
upon the ethnology of Lew Chew, gave as much attention as his opportunities 
afforded to the study of the language, and prepared the following vocabularies, 
in which some Lew Chewan and Japanese words are placed side by side. It 
will be observed there is such a similarity between the two, that no doubt 
can be entertained of the words being the same, with the difference only 
which may be reasonably attributed to peculiarity of dialect. 





Lew Cfliew. 


Japanese. 




Lew Chew. 


Japanese 


Water, 


Mizee, 


Mi-dsoo. 


Rice, 


Kumee, 


Ko-me. 


Tea, 


Chaa, 


Ts-ga. 


Sweet potato, 


Karaemu, 


Ka-ran-da-imo. 


Sun, 


Fee, 


Fi. 


Pan, 


Nudee, 


Ko-na-be. 


Fire, 


Fiee, 


Fi. 


Wine, 


Sakee, 


Sa-kee. 


Moon, 


Sichee, 


Ts'ki. 


Tobacco, 


Tobako, 


Ta-ba-ko. 


Star, 


Huzee, 


Ho-si. 


Basket chair, 


Kagoo, 


Ka-go. 


Wind, 


Hadzee, 


Ka-zee. 


Silver, 


Nauzee, 


Si-ro-goone. 


Chicken, 


Nuatuee, 


Ne-wa-ts-ri. 


Iron, 


Titzee, 


Tets'. 


Egg, 


Tom ague, 


To-ma-go. 


Cap, ^ 


Hachee-machee, Ba-oosi. 


Sea, 


Oomee, 


Oo-mi. 


Looking-glass 


, Ka-ga-me, 


Ka-ga-mi. 


Eye, 


Mee, 


Me. 


Book, 


Soomuzee, 


S'yo-mots. 


Hand, 


Tee, 


Te. 


Chair, 


Tee, 


K'yokf'rokf. 


Nose, 


Hanaa, 


Ha-na. 


Stone, 


Ezaa, 


I-sL 


Mouth, 


Koochee, 


Koo-tse. 


Swine, 


Boobaa, 


Boo-ta. 


Tree, 


Kee, 


Ki. 


1 







It will be observed that two-thirds of the words, at least, in the compara- 
tive vocabularies, are, with the slight differences of spelling, almost exactly the 
same. The orthography of a language employed by a foreigner depends more 
or less upon his capricious estimate of the sounds that the strange words 
seem to his ear to possess, and accordingly different observers will necessarily 
employ a variety of spelling. In these words in the comparative lists, which 
seem to differ, there will, on investigation, be found considerable affinity, 
and they will almost invariably show a common derivation from the same 
root. This lexical comparison is all we can here make. Unfortunately, we 
have no Lew Chew grammar to compare with that of Japan. 

Allusion has already been made to the full beard, as a distinctive mark 
between the Lew Chewans or Japanese, and Chinese and Malayan. The men 
in Lew Chew in youth have almost invariably a rich jet black beard, which in 
age becomes as white as snow. The higher classes allow their beards to 
grow of great length, and cultivate them with great care and pride, while 
the inferior people are obliged by law to cut theirs. The moustache is also 
generally worn, but seldom grows very luxuriantly. The hair is ordinarily 
of a deep black, and is allowed to grow in long locks behind and at the sides 
of the head, while the middle of the pate is shaved clean. The hair being 
well oiled and gathered up from the sides and back, is formed into a large 



CHARACTERISTICS OF LEW C H E W A N S . 367 

knot and affixed to the bald place in the head with pins either of gold, silver, 
or brass, according to the rank of the wearer. 

The Lew Chewan male has generally a well proportioned figure, with 
broad and largely developed chest, narrow hips, and a slim waist and neck. 
A deformed person is a very rare sight in Lew Chew. The costume is neat, 
graceful, and suitable to the climate, and its flowing outline is particularly 
becoming to the aged, who, with their long white beards, have quite a patri- 
archal look. Their dress is a loose robe, with very wide sleeves, which falls 
nearly to the ankles, and is gathered in at the waist with a girdle of silk or 
grass cloth, to which is attached the invariable pouch containing the pipe 
and a supply of tobacco. The cap worn by the higher classes, and called in 
the Lew Chewan tongue a hachee-machee^ is of cylindrical form, and seems 
to be made of two bands crossing each other in a figure of eight form. The 
laboring people go invariably barefooted, but the better classes wear a white 
stocking, to which, when they go out, a straw sandal is added. A band 
from the front passes between the great and next toe, as is seen in ancient 
statues. The peasants in the country go bareheaded as well as barefcoted, 
and are scantily clothed in a coarse cotton shirt, or with a mere cloth about 
the loins. 

The women are kept so secluded, particularly those of a higher rank, that 
it is difficult for a stranger to obtain a sufficient opportunity to investigate 
their peculiarities very thoroughly. They are generally short of stature, 
and by no means handsome, having a great squareness of face, and more de- 
pressed noses than the men. Some of the ladies of distinction, the exclusive 
few, are described as being tolerably good looking, and of fair complexion. 
The women wear a robe very much like that worn by the men, though with- 
out the girdle, while the hair, none of which is shaved, is dressed in the same 
style, except that the top knot is rather more in front, and somewhat to the 
side of the head. Woman is by no means as high in the social scale in Lew 
Chew as she should be, being regarded as a mere slave or chattel, and al- 
ways slighted by the men, who seem hardly to notice her, either in the houses 
or in the streets, although the females in their deportment toward strangers 
show apparently much modesty and amiability. 

The Lew Chewans are a remarkably courteous people in their ordinary 
intercourse with each other, and in their occasional relations with foreigners. 
Their usual form of obeisance is preposterously polite, they clasp their hands 
with a spasmodic earnestness of courtesy, and pressing them to their forehead, 
bow so low that it is a marvel how they preserve their centre of gravity. The 
ordinary bending of the body, which seems to be to the utmost extent of sup- 
pleness of back, is still further extended on coming into the presence of those 
of very high rank, when the polite but inferior Lew Chewan bows so low as 
literally to touch, if not to fall upon the ground. 

The people of Lew Chew are naturally among the most intelligent of the 



368 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

eastern nations, Ibut they are kept in general ignorance by their rulers. The 
higher classes are well instructed in the learning of China, whither the lite- 
rati and professional men, and especially the physicians, are sent to finish their 
education. The literature, whatever they may possess, is derived from the 
Chinese and Japanese. 

The occupation of the Lew Chewans is chiefly agricultural, although they 
have some little commerce with China and Japan, to which they send annu- 
ally a few junks, which carry such articles of clothing and provisions as can 
be spared, and bring back in exchange the productions of those countries. 
They have apparently no currency of their own, but in spite of their protesta- 
tions to the contrary, they are evidently familiar with money, particularly with 
the Chinese copper coin termed cash. Their manufactures are few, and consist 
of sugar of a coarse kind, salt of an inferior quality, large vats for making 
which are found extending along the bay of Napha, SaJcee, a spirit distilled 
from rice, cotton and grass cloth of rude texture, an inferior style of lacquered 
ware, pottery, hair pins, junks, agricultural tools, and a limited variety of other 
articles needed for their own simple life. 

In the higher arts, the Lew Chewans have not made much progress, 
although there are specimens among them of rude paintings and sculpture, 
particularly of the latter, in the coarse figures of their idols, with which they 
adorn their tombs and temples. In their architecture there is more evidence 
of advance than in the other branches of the fine arts. The ruins of the cas- 
tles in the northern and southern parts of the island, and the structure of the 
palace of Shui, with the various bridges, viaducts and roads throughout the 
country, show considerable architectural skill. In the arches and massive 
masonery of the fortresses, and walls of stone, there are marks, not only of 
artistic design, but of skilful workmanship. Their town houses are all con- 
structed of wood, roofed with earthen tiles, surrounded with verandahs of 
bamboo, and enclosed within high walls of coral. The cottages in the 
country are generally thatched with rice straw, and surrounded by either stone 
walls or bamboo picket fences, within which there is not only the house, but 
the usual farmer's concomitants of stable, pig pen, and poultry hutch. The 
furniture is of the simplest kind, consisting of thick mats spread upon the plank 
floor, upon which the natives sit crosslegged, a few stools, a table, and a 
teapot with a supply of cups. The food of the people is simple, being mostly 
rice and sweet potatoes. Animal food is but rarely used by the lowest 
classes, and consists, when enjoyed, chiefly of pork. The higher ranks have a 
more elaborate cookery, and succeed in spreading occasional banquets, which 
were found quite appetising. A great variety of soups, with various sweet- 
ened confections, and vegetable concoctions of different kinds, are the chief 
elements of the recherche Lew Chewan cuisine of the best tables. 

The Lew Chewans are a hard-working people, and enjoy but little relax- 
ation from labor. They have certain festivals, but of not frequent occurrence, 



GOVERNMENT OF LEW CHEW. 369 

for the celebration of religious and national holidays. Of their amusements 
little could be observed, although it was inferred from the existence of large 
level spaces, handsomely bordered with spreading pines, in the neighborhood 
of the towns and villages, apparently adapted for racing, wrestling and other 
athletic sports, that the Lew Chewans occasionally indulge in such exercises 
and amusements. In the markets there are frequently found for sale certain 
large balls, adorned with bright colored threads, supposed to be used in a 
game like that of our football. 

Captain Basil Hall, in his interesting but not very authentic account of 
the Lew Chewans, states that they were unacquainted with war ; and in 
relating, during an interview with Napoleon, at St. Helena, his experiences 
of travel, startled that great soldier with this unique characteristic of the 
Lew Chewans, which drew from him, as he shrugged his shoulders, the re- 
mark, " No wars ; it is impossible!" Hall's statement would seem to be 
coniSrmed by the apparent absence of all arms or ammunition, or even the 
rudest weapons of attack and defence, such as bows and arrows. The ruins 
of fortresses and the walled defences of Shui, however, seem to indicate that 
the island has not always enjoyed this blessed condition of peace, and the 
Japanese histories record the fact of ancient intestine and foreign wars.* 

The government of Lew Chew seems to be an absolute despotism, with a 
system of administration like that of Japan, to which the island is tributary. 
The present king is said to be a youth of some eleven years of age, under the 
immediate personal guardianship of a queen mother, while his government, 
during the minority, is delegated to a regency, composed of a regent and 
three chief officers, entitled pe-cy^-iTi^s or treasurers. As the policy of the 
government is to keep all foreigners in an absolute ignorance of its character, 
and as every kind of deception is resorted to for the purpose, it is difficult 
to acquire a full knowledge of its nature. The very existence of a young 
king is doubted, since from the time of the visit of Basil Hall, nearly forty 
years ago, to that of Commodore Perry, the same story has been told about 
the minority of the ruling prince, and unless he is endowed with perpetual 
childhood, or there has been a succession of juvenile kings, it is difficult to 
reconcile the experiences of the various travellers who have visited Lew Chew 
in the long intervals of scores of years. The literati, as in China and Japan^ 

* Our well known and deservedly distinguished countryman, Doctor John W. Francis, 
of New York, knew Captain Basil Hall personally, while he was in the United States, and 
has famished the compiler with the following memorandum : " On the occasion of an as- 
semblage of literary men, at some entertainment given to Captain Hall, inquiries were 
put by several of the gentlemen as to the literal accuracy of various circumstances related 
by the Captain in his book on Lew Chew. They wished to know whether they were to 
understand his statements literally. In my hearing, he made this general remark, by way 
of answer to all these interrogatories : ' If I were to rewrite the book, I should make of it 
a different story.' " 

24 



370 EXPEDITION TO JAPAK. 

compose the higher and ruling classes, and, as in those countries, are pre- 
pared for official position by a diligent study of the doctrines of Confucius 
and Mencius. In fact, the young men belonging to families of rank are 
ordinarily sent to China to complete their education, and fit them for their 
positions as officers of the government. The exclusive policy of Japan is 
that also of Lew Chew, and was rigidly adhered to until dissolved by the 
intercourse of the Americans under Commodore Perry. The system of es- 
pionage pervades the whole government from the administration of the 
highest to the lowest official. Most of the higher classes seem to have little 
else to do than to watch every word and movement of the people, and form 
a large body of indolent non-producers, who live idly upon the hard tasked 
laborers of the lower classes, who are treated with all the rigor of social 
servitude. The country is supposed to have been conquered, centuries ago, 
by a Japanese prince of Satsuma, to the successor of whom it is believed to 
be tributary, although there are some relations not well understood with 
China. 

The religion of Lew Chew is, as we have before stated, the generally 
prevalent Buddhism of the east, with a mixture of various idolatries pecu- 
liar to the island ; there are, however, not many temples in Lew Chew, and 
those which exist do not attract a very large or a very devoted class of wor- 
shippers. As in China and Japan, a general skepticism or religious indif- 
ference seems to exist, particularly among the Uteraii, or higher classes. 
The Bonzes, or priests, however, are treated with greater reverence in Lew 
Chew than in most oriental countries, though they have the same forlorn 
look, and go about, with their shaven crowns and fusty garments, like sim- 
ilar miserable mendicants in China. 

Great reverence is paid to the dead in Lew Chew, where they are put in 
coffins in a sitting posture, and, being followed by the friends and relations 
and a procession of women in long white veils which cover their heads and 
faces, are interred in well built stone vaults, or tombs constructed in the 
sides of the hills. After the body has been interred for a period of seven 
years and all the flesh is decayed, the bones are removed and deposited in 
stone vases, which are placed upon shelves within the vaults. The poor 
people place the remains of their dead in earthen jars, and deposit them in 
the crevices of the rocks, where they are often to be seen broken and disar- 
ranged. Periodical visits are paid by the surviving friends and relations to 
the burial places, where they deposit offerings upon the tombs. On the first 
interment of the rich dead, roast pigs and other articles of food are offered, 
and after being allowed to remain for a short time, are distributed among 
the poor. 

During the explorations of the island of Lew Chew, which were so effec- 
tively prosecuted by the Kev. Mr. Jones, Mr. Taylor, Drs. Fahs, Greene, and 
others, under the direction of the Commodore, and which resulted in the obtain- 



SQUADKON LEAVES FOR YEDO. 3Vl 

ing of so much new information in regard to a singular people, of whom little 
has been previously known to the world, there were many specimens obtained 
of their various fabrics and of their natural productions, and particularly of 
their botany, which have been brought to the United States for the investiga- 
tion of the scientific and the interest of the curious. 

The purposes of the Commodore in regard to the island had been so far 
efi'ectively carried out. The building for the storing of coal had been com- 
pleted, the temple appropriated for the accommodation of the sick and others 
of the squadron, whose duties made it necessary for them to reside on shore, 
had been secured, and those supplies obtained which were necessary for the 
squadron. With an occasional faint demur on the part of the authorities, 
they continued to accept payment for the various articles needed, and with 
their growing willingness to sell came an increased demand for higher prices. 
The friendly intercourse of the Americans with the inhabitants of the island 
had undoubtedly greatly contributed to their advantage. The most scrupu- 
lous regard had been observed toward the rights of the authorities and other 
classes, and they all were becoming less reserved. It was not an unreasonable 
inference, from the favorable disposition of the Lew Chewan people toward 
relations with a higher civilization, and from a seeming sense on their part 
of the oppressive tyranny of their absolute rulers, that they would rejoice 
in being placed in a political position that might render them independent of 
Japanese despotism. 

A more demonstrative indication of the friendly feeling of the Lew 
Chewans for their foreign visitors would have been shown probably had it 
not been for the numerous Japanese agents and spies who were ever on the 
watch to notice and report to the imperial government every event that 
transpired, and to make those who manifested any friendship toward the 
Americans accountable at some future time. 

The CommodorCj being detained at Napha in negotiations with the au- 
thorities, thought it advisable to dispatch some of the sailing vessels of the 
squadron to Yedo bay, with the intention of foUowiDg soon after with his 
steamers. He expected to arrive, with the advantages of steam in his 
favor, in Japan at about the same time with those who had preceded him in 
their departure. 

Accordingly, Captain Abbot sailed on the first of February in the Ma- 
cedonian, in company with the Yandalia, Lexington, and Southampton. 
The Commodore followed on the seventh of February, with the steamers 
Susquehanna, Powhatan, and Mississippi. The storeship Supply had been 
got ready, and was ordered to sail on the next day after the Commodore's 
departure for Shanghai, there to take on board a cargo of coal and some live 
stock, and proceed to join the squadron in Yedo bay. 

It had been arranged that Dr. Bettleheim, who had been superseded by 
another English missionary, a Mr. Moreton, should have a passage for him- 
self and family in the Supply to Shanghai. 



\ 



CHAPTER XVIII 



Letter from Dutch Governor General of India announcing the death of the Japanese Emperor. — Com- 
modore's reply. — Enumeration of the several ohjects in view. — Prospects of their attainment by the 
mission. — Officers and men left in Lew Chew. — Arrival of the Saratoga. — Run to Yedo Bay. — Oho- 
sima. — Cleopatra isles. — Mijako-sima. — All belong to Lew Chew group. — Entrance of gulf or outer 
bay of Tedo.— Japanese charts of little value, made for mere coasting. — Wintry aspect of Japan.— 
Macedonian aground. — Hauled off by the Mississippi. — Friendly offers of the Japanese to assist the 
Macedonian. — Squadron proceeds up the bay and ancbors at the "American anchorage." — Japanese 
officials come alongside. — Eeceived by Captain Adams on the Powhatan, pursuant to the Commodore's 
orders. — They attempt to prevail on the Commodore to return to Uraga, stating that the high Japa- 
nese functionaries were there awaiting his arrival, by appointment of the Emperor. — Commodore de- 
clines on account of safety of the ships. — Visit on the next day from the officials, who reiterate their 
request, with an assurance, that the commissioners were ordered to receive the Commodore at Uraga 
with distinguished consideration. — Commodore again declines. — tJapanese ask that an officer may be 
sent to Uraga to confer with the commissioners as to a place of meeting. — Commodore consents that 
Captain Adams may hold such a conference, but that the commissioners must come there to hold it. — 
Japanese become alarmed as to the friendly feelings of the Americans. — Their fears allayed. — Survey 
of the bay resumed without interruption by the Japanese. — Our boats forbidden by the Commodore 
to land. — Japanese persist for several days in desiring the Commodore to go to Uraga with the ships. 
— Commodore invariably refuses. — At length the Japanese are informed that the Commodore will al- 
low Captain Adams to meet a commissioner on shore near the ships, or that he will proceed up the 
bay to Yedo. — Note from the commissioners to the Commodore. — His reply. — Captain Adams sent 
down to Uraga to communicate to the commissioners the Commodore's reasons for declining to take 
the ships to Uraga. — Some of the Japanese accompany him in the Vandalia. — Interview of Captain 
Adams with the commissioners at Uraga. — Visit to Captain Adams from Yezaiman on board the Van- 
dalia. — Assures Captain Adams of the friendly disposition of the Emperor. — Vandalia returns, and 
perceives ahead the squadron standing up the bay toward Yedo. — The Japanese no longer urge going 
to Uraga, but suddenly propose Yoku-hama, where the ships then were, about eight miles from Yedo. 
— Commodore immediately assents. — Buildings constructed at Yoku-hama. — A Japanese seaman in 
the squadron sends a letter to his family ashore, by Yezaiman. — Yezaiman desires an interview with 
him — ^The interview. — Ceremonials settled as to the conferences on shore for negotiation. 



EEYIOUS to leaving Ka- 
pha, Commodore Perry had re- 
ceived a communication from 
the governor general of Dutch 
India, conveying information 
of the death of the Emperor of 
^ Japan, soon after the reception 
of the President's letter. The 
Japanese government (so said 
the communication) had re- 
quested the Dutch superintend- 
ent to communicate the fact 
to the American governmentj 
as this event, according to the 
laws and customs of Japan 




DEATH OF THE EMPEROR. 373 

made certain ceremonies of mourning and arrangements for succession 
to the throne necessary, and the consequent postponement of all considera- 
tion of the President's letter for the present. The Japanese authorities 
accordingly had, as was stated by the governor general, repeatedly re- 
quested the superintendent of the Dutch factory at Nagasaki to express 
the wish of the government of Japan that the American squadron would 
not return to the Bay of Yedo at the time fixed by Commodore Perry, 
lest his presence might create confusion. The Commodore answered the 
communication of the governor general of Dutch India with the usual formal 
expression of regret at the event of the Emperor's death, and added that he 
hoped the present rulers of Japan were so well satisfied of the intentions of 
the President of the United States, as stated in his letter, that they would 
not be disposed to throw any serious obstacles in the way of accomplishing 
friendly relations between the American nation and the Japanese.* 

The Commodore had previously heard, through the officers of the Russian 
squadron, of the reported death of the Emperor of Japan, and that similar 
reasons to those set forth in the communication of the Dutch governor general 
had been assigned to the Russian admiral for not replying to the letter from 
his sovereign, which had been sent to Yedo from Nagasaki. The Commo- 
dore was disposed to suspect, at first, as nothing had been said of the illness 
of the Emperor of Japan during the first visit to the Bay of Yedo, and as so 
short an interval had elapsed since then, that the statement of the death of 
the Emperor was a mere ruse to obstruct the American negotiations. 

* [Translation.] 

BuETENZORG, December 23, 1853. 

Mr. CoEVioDORE : The Dutch ship " Hendrika," master Admiral, which sailed for Japan 
in July last, has returned to Batavia on the 15th instant. 

She brings intelligence from the superintendent of our factory there, up to November 15, 
1 853, and information of the death of the Emperor of Japan, soon after receiving the let- 
ter of the President of the United States. 

The Japanese government has requested the Dutch superintendent to communicate to the 
American government : That this event, according to Japanese laws and customs, makes 
necessary the performance of many and continuing ceremonies of mourning, and extensive 
arrangements with respect to the succession to the throne ; that during the period of mourning 
no business of any importance can be transacted ; that the letter of the President of the 
United States can only be taken into deliberation when the time of mourning is over ; that 
previous thereto, the opinions upon the subject have to be obtained from all the governors 
(lords) in Japan ; that for that purpose the governors have to repair to Yedo in succes- 
sion, (one after the other ;) that all that will take much time. 

The Japanese authorities have repeatedly requested the superintendent of our factory 
that he would inform the American government of the wish of the Japanese government not 
to let the American squadron return to Japan at the time fixed upon by your excellency, for 
fear that under the circumstances created by the decease of the Emperor, and from the sev- 
eral and unavoidable conferences with the Japanese authorities, and of those authorities 
among themselves, the American squadron might create broil, (confusion,) as the Japanese 
authorities express themselves. 



374 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

And even granting that tte Emperor was dead, (wliich was proved sub- 
sequently to be the fact,) there seemed to be no reason for the delay in 
public business. The laws of China require the eldest son of the highest 
classes to abstain from pleasure, company, or business, for seven weeks in the 
event of the death of an Emperor, but the successor to the imperial throne 
assumes the government immediately, and public business is never inter- 
rupted. A similar custom was inferred to prevail in Japan, as none of the 
books describing the manners and customs of that Empire allude to any 
different practice on such an occasion. 

The Commodore was not, however, to be deterred from the prosecution 
of his plans by any unfavorable intelligence which those who might be dis- 
posed to obstruct them so carefully acquainted him with. 

It is well to enumerate here, while the Commodore is on his way to Japan, 
the leading objects of his mission. He was to demand explanations of the 
Japanese government respecting its treatment of American citizens who had 
been accidentally thrown upon its shores, and to make declaration that the 

I believe it not necessary to go beyond informing your excellency of this wish of the 
Japanese government, to be filed with my letter of September 22, 1852, (No. 134.) 
With great respect, I have the honor to be, your excellency's obedient servant, 

DUYMAER VAN TWIST, 
Governor Genercd of Netherlands, India. 
By order of his excellency the governor general : 

A. PRINS, Chief Secretary. 
His Excellency Commodore Perry, 

Commandant of the United States squadron destined for Japan. 



United States Steam Frigate Susquehanna, 

Najpha, Lew Chew, Janvxiry 23, 1854. 
Sir : I have the honor to acknowledge the receipt of the letter of your excellency of the 
23d ultimo, informing me of a communication you had received from the superintendent of 
the factory at Dezima, announcing the death of the Emperor of Japan, and detailing the 
consequences that would result from this event in retarding the progress of the mission with 
which I have been charged. 

Allow me to thank your excellency for the trouble you have taken in conveying to me 
this sad intelligence. I trust, however, that the present rulers of Japan have become so 
well satisfied of the intentions of the President in suggesting the propositions which I have 
had the honor of presenting, that they will not be disposed to throw any serious obstacles 
in the way of a friendly understanding between the two nations. 

With great respect, I have the honor to be, your most obedient servant, 

M. C. PERRY, 
Commamder-in-chief United States naval forces, East Indies, China, and Japan Seas, 
His Excellency Duymaer Van Twist, 

Governor General oftlie NetJierlands, India, 



OBJECTS OF THE MISSION RECAPITULATED. 375 

United States government will no longer tolerate such acts ; to endeavor to 
obtain, at least, the opening of one or more Japanese ports to American 
vessels ; and to negotiate, if possible, a treaty with the Empire upon a basis 
just and equitable, and if a general treaty could not be made, to make the 
best that was attainable for trade. Of course, there was much uncertainty 
in regard to the successful issue of the mission in this respect, and the 
Commodore was resolved to do all in his power by firmly insisting upon what 
was due to the United States, and discreetly urging the establishment of those 
relations which seemed desirable for the interests of his country. There 
would be little difficulty, he thought, in bringing about suitable explanations 
and apologies, with assurances of kind treatment to all strangers who should 
thereafter fall into the hands of the Japanese, as also a friendly reception 
and necessary supplies to whaling ships anchoring in the ports of the 
Empire. These results alone, it was believed, would repay the United States 
government for all the expenses of the expedition. With respect to the 
accomplishment of the other objects there was some doubt, unless force should 
be resorted to. This, however, was an alternative that could only be justi- 
fied by some overt act of wrong or insult on the part of the Japanese govern- 
ment, and, of course, was not contemplated. The Commodore, though he 
felt confident that the purpose of his mission as regards the demanding of 
redress for ill-treatment of American citizens would be easily accomplished, 
nevertheless had made provision against any failure. He had arranged, pro- 
vided the Japanese government refused to negotiate, or to assign a port of 
resort for our merchant or whaling ships, to take under surveillance of the 
American flag the island of Great Lew Chew, a dependency of the Empire 
of Japan. This, if necessary, was to be done on the ground of reclamation 
for insults and injuries well known to have been committed upon American 
citizens. Previously to leaving Napha, Commodore Perry accordingly issued 
a proclamation to the effect that, as a question was pending between the 
United States and Japan touching certain demands upon the Japanese gov- 
ernment, and as it was deemed essential to the security of the just claims 
of the United States to assume, during the pending negotiations, limited 
authority on the island of Great Lew Chew, he had, therefore, detached from 
the squadron two master's mates and about fifteen men to look after the 
United States government property and other interests during his absence. 

These were merely measures of precaution, which seemed justified by 
the wily policy of the Japanese, which forbade any confident reliance upon 
its justice, and by the probability of the Russians, French, or English, in 
their eagerness to anticipate the Americans, stepping in before them and 
seizing a dependency like Lew Chew, which might so greatly further their 
purposes in regard to Japan. It was not proposed by the Commodore to 
take Lew Chew, or claim it as a territory conquered by, and belonging to, 
the United States, nor to molest or interfere in any way with the authorities 



376 EXPEDITION TO .JAPAN. 

or people of the island, or to use any force, except in self-defence. In fact, 
there was not likely to be any occasion for violence, as the Americans already 
possessed all necessary influence in Lew Chew, which had been acquired by 
kindness and non-interference with the laws and customs of the island. 

The arrival of the Saratoga from Shanghai had been expected for some 
days previous to the Commodore's departure from Napha, and, as she had 
not arrived before his setting out, it was thought probable that the squadron 
would fall in with her outside the harbor. Accordingly, the steamer's course 
was directed to the westward of Lew Chew, in view of intercepting the 
track of the Saratoga, and it so happened that the steamers had scarcely 
cleared the harbor when a sail was discovered standing toward the island, 
which, on approaching nearer, was ascertained, by signal, to be the long 
looked-for ship. Captain Walker, who was in command of the Saratoga, 
soon came on board the Susquehanna, and received orders to proceed direct 
to the American anchorage in Yedo Bay. Upon his return to his ship, 
after sending some live stock brought from Shanghai for the squadron, and 
three packages containing presents for the Japanese authorities, he bore away 
with the intention of taking the passage east of Lew Chew. 

The passage of the steamers, until the islands lying at the entrance of 
the great Bay of Yedo were made, was pleasant and by no means protracted. 
The northern group of the Lew Chew chain, composed of the islands of 
Oho-sima, or as the Chinese call it Ta-tao, Tok-sima, Ratona-sima, and 
Kikai-sima, were passed in full view. There was an opportunity, which was 
improved, of establishing with some accuracy the positions of several of the 
headlands on the western side of Oho-sima and the islets named by Captain 
Guerin, of the French corvette Sabine, Cleopatra islands. In passing these 
islands, Commodore Perry was reminded of an order he had received from 
the Secretary of the Navy to investigate, and report upon, a question touch- 
ing the original discovery of Oho-sima, by Commander Glynn, in February, 
1846, he being at the time in command of the United States sloop-of-war 
Preble. A diligent investigation was accordingly made, and the results 
embodied in a communication to the Navy Department. The island repre- 
sented to have been seen in June, 1849, and described in Commander Glynn's 
letter to Commodore Jones, dated February 21, 1850, as bearing in a south- 
easterly direction from the Preble, and as a new discovery, is called in the 
Japanese charts, Oho-sima, and by the Chinese, Ta-tao. The islets stated 
to have been discovered at the same time, and described as bearing north- 
northwest, were examined, in 1846, by Captain Guerin, of the Sabine, and 
named by him, " Cleopatra Isles." The latter, as well as others lying con- 
tiguous to Oho-sima, were distinctly seen from the decks of the several ships 
of the squadron, during the present voyage, on February 8, 1854. Sketches 
of the islands were taken, and their positions established by cross bearings 



AKRIVAL IN BAY OF YEDO. 377 

taken from the steamer Susquehanna, at noon, after good observations. The 
results were as follows : 

South end of Cleopatra Isles, latitude 28° 48^ N., longitude 128° 59^ ^ 

30// E. 

North end of Oho-sima, latitude 28° 29^ N., longitude 129° 30' E. ><^ 

Oho-sima is the principal of what may be called the northern group of 
the Lew Chew chain, which, in connection with the Mijako-sima, and other 
islands commencing with the Cleopatra, extend from near the north end of 
Formosa to Kiusiu, the southwestern extremity of Japan proper. The 
three groups of Mijako-sima, Great Lew Chew, or Okinawa-sima, and Oho- 
sima, should be denominated the southern, middle, and northern Lew Chew 
islands, the central government being established at the city of Shui, in the 
island of Great Lew Chew. Of the people and government of these islands 
little is known, but it is presumed that they are all subject to an interme- 
diate sovereignty between Lew Chew and the Empire of Japan, or possibly 
the Japanese prince of Satsuma. This potentate is stated by Yon Siebold 
to receive about 2,240,000 guilders, or nearly $900,000, annually, from the 
Lew Chew islands. Oho-sima is in circumference nearly one hundred and 
fifty English miles, and bears in its external aspect, with its mountains and 
richly verdant valleys, a considerable resemblance to Great Lew Chew. It 
is represented by various writers to be thickly populated, having all the 
advantages of cities, towns, villages, and commodious ports. It is surprising 
that it has never hitherto been visited by any Christian voyager. 

The Mijako-sima islands have been more than once visited by foreign 
vessels, and during the progress of the Japan expedition, by the Saratoga, 
whose officers described the inhabitants as being in language, manners, cus- 
toms, and appearance, almost identical with the people of Lew Chew. And 
it is reasonable to infer that this, in common with the other inhabited islands 
of the chain, has been peopled for many hundreds of years. The Mijako- 
sima group was ascertained to be governed by officers appointed by the king 
and council of Great Lew Chew, who are frequently changed, in conformity 
with the policy practised throughout Japan and its dependencies. 

The Cleopatra islands are only two in number, lying in close proximity 
to each other, and are small and uninhabited. They are cone-shaped, and 
evidently of volcanic origin, the craters being clearly visible, the larger one 
of which has been estimated at 1,650 feet in height. The geographical posi- 
tion of all this chain of islands, extending from Formosa to Japan proper, 
would seem to be so arranged as to suit the convenience of the commerce of 
the unskilful Japanese navigators, who sail in their frail open-sterned vessels 
from island to island, always being careful to have a port under their lee, 
into which to escape on the least approach of foul weather. 

On entering, upon the 11th of February, the outer Bay of Yedo, or as it 
may be more suitably termed, the Gulf of Yedo, including the space em- 



378 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

braced between Cape Nagatsuro on tbe west, Cape Serafama or Cape King 
on the east, and Wodawara, Kamakura, and Cape Sagami on tbe north, the 
steamers encountered a severe blow from the northward and eastward. 
They were kept, however, during the night, under the lee of Oho-sima, 
(i. e. Great Island,) and thus avoided the greatest violence of the gale. On 
the previous afternoon a cluster of three dangerous rocks, showing above the 
surface of the sea from ten to twenty feet, were passed quite near. These 
were supposed to be what are called on the charts the Broughton Rocks ; 
and if they were, their position is evidently very erroneously laid down, and 
if they were not, they have escaped the observation of previous European 
and American navigators. That these rocks should have been hitherto 
unnoticed would not be at all remarkable, for few ships have ever visited 
the southern and eastern coast of Japan, and it is not reasonable to expect 
that the very imperfect charts which have been compiled from the meagre 
information furnished by Broughton, Gore, King, Krusenstern, and the three 
or four American and English vessels which have visited the coast within a 
few years back, should be in any manner correct. 

It is true that the Japanese have constructed charts, but they are on a 
plan peculiar to themselves, and of little benefit to the bold navigators, with 
their large vessels, of Europe and America. The Japanese charts, without 
meridian or scale, and totally destitute of any record of soundings, are hardly 
of any use, except in their own timid navigation. The Japanese never ven- 
ture, if they can possibly avoid it, beyond sight of land, and always seize 
upon favorable seasons, weather and winds, for making their longest runs. 
Their junks skirt the coast by touching the land here and there, and going 
from island to island, and seldom make a run of a longer duration than 
twenty-four hours. The largest Japanese junks seen did not draw more 
than eight feet of water, and, as has just been remarked, they run from port 
to port, invariably seeking shelter on occasions of adverse winds or appear- 
ances of bad weather. The pilots, familiar with every rock on the coast, need ^/ 
no charts, and conduct their vessels, in accordance with their cautious navi- 
gation, with general safety. Every harbor, however small, is furnished with 
conveniences for securing the Japanese craft, holes being artificially made 
through the angles of the rocks for passing the cables, and where this is not 
practicable, upright pillars or posts are hewn or morticed in the stone, and 
all chafings of the moorings provided against by a careful rounding and 
smoothing of the neighboring projection or detached parts. 

On the morning of the 12tli of February the weather became more set- 
tled, and the steamers stood up the bay. The outlines of the land were 
recognized from the familiarity of the previous visit, but a change had come 
over the face of the landscape, in consequence of the difierence of season. 
The lofty summit of Fusi-Yama was distinctly visible as before, but was now 
completely clothed in its winter garb of snow. The rich verdure of the sur- 



MACEDONIAN AGROUND. 379 

rounding land had lost its cheerful summer aspect, and looked withered, 
bleak and sombre. The rising uplands were no longer reposing in their beds 
of green, shaded from a summer's sun beneath spreading groves, but were 
bare and desolate, while the distant mountains stood chill in their snowy 
drapery and frowned upon the landscape. The weather was cold and blus- 
tering. As the steamers approached the land, two vessels were observed 
close in and apparently at anchor. On approaching them it was discovered 
that they were the Macedonian and Yandalia. The latter had a signal dis- 
played announcing that the Macedonian was aground. It was soon ascer- 
tained that Captain Abbott, on the day previous, had mistaken the indenta- 
tion in the coast within which his ship was aground for the entrance to the 
passage to Uraga and Yedo. He had, accordingly, on venturing too near 
the shore, grounded his vessel on a ledge of rocks not, of course, laid down 
upon the imperial chart which he had ; said chart being nothing more than a 
copy of one of Von Siebold's maps, which had been copied from the Japanese 
authorities, with a feV notes upon it, made during the first visit of the 
squadron to the Bay of Yedo. Captain Abbott, finding his ship in this 
dilemma, adopted the usual means of getting her afloat by starting the 
water, making her guns ready for throwing overboard, and actually throwing 
over the side many miscellaneous articles. Commander Pope of the Yan- 
dalia, at that time in company, immediately anchored and sent his boats to 
the assistance of his consort the Macedonian. 

The fortunate arrival of Commodore Perry with his three steamers at 
once gave assurance of efi"ectual aid. Commander Lee of the Mississippi 
was accordingly ordered to approach with his steamer as near as he could 
safely venture to the ship on shore, and run a couple of hawsers to her with 
the view of hauling her ofi" by the power of steam. This duty he executed 
with his usual promptitude and judgment, and before night the Macedonian 
was towed into a safe anchorage. Meanwhile the other vessels were brought 
to anchor for the night, having been joined on the same afternoon by the 
Lexington, which, it will be recollected, sailed from Napha in company with 
the Macedonian and Yandalia, In the course of the night a boat came 
alongside the Commodore's flag-ship, having been dispatched by Lieutenant 
Commanding Boyle of the Southampton, which vessel, another of Captain 
Abbott's division, had arrived the day before at the American anchorage in 
the Bay of Yedo. 

Lieutenant Boyle had received information from the Japanese authori- 
ties that two ships had arrived off Kama-kura, and that one of them was 
ashore, and very promptly and properly dispatched the launch of the South- 
ampton, with two officers and a suitable crew, to render all practicable assist- 
ance. 

The friendly disposition of the Japanese toward the Americans was 
handsomely illustrated by their offers of assistance as soon as the Macedonian 



380 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

was observed ashore. Such, too, was their courteous and scrupulous regard 
for the interests and property of their visitors, that they actually took the 
trouble of sending to the squadron, then at a distance of twenty miles, a hogs- 
head of bituminous coal, which had been thrown overboard on lightening the 
ship, and subsequently washed ashore. 

Next morning (February 13), after the Macedonian had been relieved 
from her hazardous position in the bight of Kawatsu, near Kama-kura, the 
whole squadron moved up the Bay of Yedo, sailing in a line ahead, the Lex- 
ington, Yandalia, and Macedonian being in tow respectively of the Susque- 
hanna, Powhatan, and Mississippi. With the experience of navigation ac- 
quired during the previous visit, there was no occasion for the ships to feel 
their way, but they passed along the magnificent bay with confidence, bring- 
ing into view at each turn various points of the land on either side, which 
had now the aspect of familiar ground. 

The precipitous coasts of Sagami rose bleakly in the winter atmosphere 
on the left, while far inland could be seen the lofty ranges of the mountains 
covered with snow, and the high peak of Fusi-Yama, about the lofty summit 
of which the clouds were scudding in rapid succession. There was the 
distant coast of Awa, some twelve miles away on the opposite side, and along 
the shores everywhere were the numberless villages and towns, though snugly 
reposing under the cover of the high land which rose behind them, yet look- 
ing desolate and exposed, in comparison with their former aspect of rural 
comfort when nestling in the full-leaved groves of summer. Abreast was 
the town of Gorihama, the scene of the delivery of the President's letter, and 
in front extended out from the land the promontory of Uraga, with its harm- 
less forts, and as the ships doubled it and came abreast the city, numerous 
government boats, with their athletic oarsmen sculling vigorously, and their 
little striped flags fluttering in the wind, pushed off to intercept the squadron, 
as on the previous visit. The Japanese officials, however, who had risen from 
their places midships, and seemed to be directing their boats towards the 
squadron, were warned off, and the strangers moved majestically on, with 
their train of formidable men-of-war, without altering their course a line, or 
lingering a moment in their speed until they reached the anchorage, at three 
o'clock in the afternoon (February 13). The government boats were left in 
the distance, but were seen sculling rapidly along and following in the wake 
of the squadron. 

The position in which the three steamers and the four ships, including 
the Southampton, which had preceded the squadron, had anchored, was named 
in the previous visit, the " American anchorage." It is within the bight 
embraced within two bold headlands, about twelve miles distant from each 
other, on the western side of the Bay of Yedo. The anchorage was about 
twelve miles beyond the town of Uraga, and about twenty miles from the 
capital city of Yedo. The Island which had been called Perry's, and which 



JAPANESE VISIT TO THE SQUADRON. 381 

presented such a picturesque aspect during the summer with its pleasant 

groves, was seen as the squadron passed up, and the fort which covered its 
summit could be more distinctly traced through the trees, which had been 
stripped of their foliage by the frost and winds of winter. 

The villages of Otsu and Torigasaki, no longer embowered in green 
growth, stood out from the land a mile or so distant, in all the sharpness of 
outline and staring surface of their peak-roofed and boarded houses. The an- 
chorage, though protected by the bounding headlands and the curved shore, 
had less of that sheltered look which it had previously presented. 

The squadron had hardly come to anchor when two of the government 
boats, which had followed rapidly in the wake of the ships, came alongside 
the Susquehanna. The Japanese officials requested to be admitted on board, 
but as the Commodore had caused the extra or captain's cabin to be removed 
from the steamer Susquehanna to the Powhatan, in view of changing his 
flag to that ship preparatory to the return of the former to China, and as, in 
accordance with the system of exclusiveness which it was thought politic still 
to continue, the Commodore could not admit them, as they were of subordi- 
nate authority, into his own cabin, he directed Captain Adams to receive the 
officials on board the Powhatan. 

Captain Adams, having been charged by the Commodore with precise 
and special instructions to hear all the Japanese had to say, but to give them 
no unnecessary information, nor to promise anything, proceeded to the steam- 
er Powhatan, accompanied by the interpreters, Messrs. Williams and Port- 
man, and the Commodore's secretary, Mr. Perry. 

The government boats followed, and the Japanese deputation came on 
board the Powhatan. It consisted of a high dignitary, who was announced 
as Kura-kawa-kahie, the two interpreters who had formerly officiated, three 
grey-robed individuals, who seemed to be making excellent use of their eyes, 
and turned out to be metske dwantinger^ literally cross-eyed persons, or those 
who look in all directions, in other words spies or reporters. They were all 
received with one form of ceremony, and ushered into the cabin, where the 
object of their visit was set forth at length. Some preliminary conversation 
took place, in the course of which inquiries having been made about Yezaiman, 
the governor of Uraga, who had taken so prominent a part in the negotiations 
on the previous visit, the Japanese stated that that dignitary was unwell, 
but would probably soon pay his respects to the Commodore. Questions 
were also asked and answered in regard to the ships, their number, their 
names, and those that were to come. The usual compliments, of which the 
Japanese officials seemed never weary or forgetful, having passed, they stated 
that their business was to endeavor to induce the Commodore to return to 
Uraga, where, they said, there were two high Japanese officials, in waiting, 
and that more were expected, who had been appointed by the Emperor to 
meet and treat with the Americans. Captain Adams replied that the Com- 



382 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

modore would not consent to go to Uraga. And upon the Japanese rejoin 
ing that the Emperor had appointed that town for the place of negotiation, 
and that it could in consequence be nowhere else, he was told by Captain 
Adams that the Commodore was willing to meet the commissioners on 
shore, opposite the present anchorage of the squadron ; but if the Japanese 
government would not consent to that, the Commodore would move his ships 
higher up the bay, even, if it should be deemed necessary, to Yedo itself. 
The interview was conducted in the most courteous and friendly manner, and 
after the business was over, the Japanese partook of some refreshments, and 
entered cheerfully into a general conversation. 

The Japanese now took their leave, and although they had been impressed 
with the resolute bearing of the Americans, departed with their usual 
good humor and polite expressions of friendly feeling. 

The next day the Japanese officials came off again to the Powhatan, and 
were received as before by Captain Adams, under instructions from the 
Commodore. 

The Japanese reiterated their assurances of the friendly disposition of 
the Emperor, who had given orders, as they said, that the Americans should 
be treated with the greatest consideration. The commissioners, they de- 
clared, would be ready to receive the Commodore in a few days, and upon 
being asked in what place, they answered at Kama-kura. As Uraga had 
been specified on the previous day, Captain Adams, with some surprise, de- 
manded how it was that the place had become so suddenly changed. The 
Japanese, with their usual imperturbable manner, which is schooled to cun- 
ning and deceit, promptly answered, without the least mark of emotion or 
evidence of discomposure, that the Emperor had named both places, so that 
if the Commodore should not be satisfied with the one, he might perchance 
with the other. 

Kama-kura is a town situated in the outer Bay of Yedo, about twenty 
miles below Uraga, at the place where the Macedonian had grounded. As 
the Commodore had had an opportunity, when anchored off Kama-kura, 
while engaged in the extrication of the Macedonian from her perilous 
position, of seeing enough of that place to satisfy him that it would be ab- 
surd to take the ships there, and as he suspected some artful design on the 
part of the Japanese, when informed that Kama-kura had been specified, he 
directed Captain Adams to say that it was altogether unsuitable. Captain 
Adams then conveyed this information to the Japanese, with the statement that 
neither Uraga nor Kama-kura were proper places, as they were so distant, 
and so insecure as harbors, and that some other locality must be selected. 
The Japanese then proposed that Captain Adams should go down to Uraga, 
and confer with the high officer there about the place of meeting, when they 
were told that it would be necessary to receive the instructions of the 
Commodore before a reply could be given on that point. 



JAPANESE PERTINACITT. o83 

The Commodore's secretary, who was present at the interview, was then 
dispatched to the Susquehanna. The secretary soon returned with the 
answer that the Commodore would neither go to Uraga, nor allow any of 
his officers to do so, but that Captain Adams would be permitted to meet 
any of the high Japanese dignitaries on the shore, near the anchorage of the 
squadron, to confer upon the subject of a proper place of meeting, but that 
it was an essential condition of the Commodore's consent that the place 
should not be remote from his present position. 

The Japanese officials, notwithstanding the very explicit answer, which 
was duly conveyed in Dutch by Mr. Portman to Tatsnoske, (who, as on the 
first visit, was one of the attendant interpreters,) and by him interpreted to 
his superiors, still pertinaciously clung to their original proposition, and 
urged the necessity of making Uraga the place of meeting. As they still 
persisted in their wearisome efforts to carry their point. Captain Adams cut 
the matter short, by telling them to put in writing their objections to hold- 
ing the interview in the neighborhood of the American anchorage, to which 
the Japanese assented, on the condition that Captain Adams would answer 
a written question which they were about to ask. This being granted, Tok- 
suro, the second interpreter, having conferred for a moment with his supe- 
riors, wrote down in Dutch the proposed question, which was translated by 
the American interpreter, Mr. Portman : " As the President's letter was 
received at Gorahama, near Uraga, why are you not willing to receive the 
answer there ? " Captain Adams answered that he did not know precisely 
all the Commodore's reasons, but the principal one was that the anchorage 
was very unsafe. 

The Japanese now seemed somewhat troubled, as if they feared that 
the Americans were disposed to assume a hostile attitude, and asked, with 
some anxiety, whether the Commodore was actuated by the same friendly 
feelings as the Japanese government. Captain Adams did all in his power 
to reassure them, and declared that the Americans were actuated by no 
other motives than those of friendship, and that their greatest desire was to 
be in relations of peace and amity with Japan, and that their chief object in 
refusing their assent to the Japanese propositions was the fear of endanger- 
ing the lives of the officers and crews and the safety of the ships by resort- 
ing to an insecure place. The Japanese reiterated, several times, that a 
high officer would come to arrange all business with the Commodore, but 
that he could not arrive for several days. Upon its being proposed that he 
should come on board the ships, the Japanese declared that that was quite 
impossible ; and then Captain A. suggested that, as it was the custom to 
transact all public business at the metropolis, the Commodore should go to 
Yedo. This last suggestion was opposed by the very emphatic remark : 
'' You cannot be received at Yedo." 

The Japanese now requested that the boats of the squadron should be 



384 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

prohibited from landing, or surveying the harbor, and were told that could 
not be promised, but that the Commodore should be informed of the request. 
After the usual refreshments — tea, wines, cakes, and segars — of which the 
Japanese always freely partook, and the ordinary interchange of compli- 
ments, they prepared to take their departure, saying, as they left, that it 
would take some six or seven days, before they could bring any decision 
from the high officer in regard to the place of meeting, but promising the 
earliest dispatch. 

A surveying party had been organized on the second day of the arrival of 
the squadron, under the command of Lieutenant Maury, and ordered to com- 
mence operations, which were effectively carried out. There were no 
positive interruptions on the part of the Japanese authorities, but they evi- 
dently looked upon the proceeding with jealous anxiety; and that the sub- 
ject was uppermost in their mind is clear, from the constant allusion to it 
in their various conferences with the American officers. The Commodore, 
however, fully alive to the importance of thoroughly surveying the bay, not 
only for the convenience of the immediate purposes of the expedition but for 
the future interests of the United States, and we may add, those of the 
whole civilized world, was resolved to omit no opportunity of obtaining a 
thorough knowledge of the navigation of the bay, and thus complete the hy- 
drographical reports and charts, which are now among the by no means least 
valuable results of the expedition. The surveying boats were accordingly 
kept busy day after day, and the protestations of the Japanese authorities, 
though courteously listened to, were always met with the assertions of the 
resolute determination of the Commodore to prosecute what he believed so 
essential to the full development of the objects of his mission. It was now 
the fourteenth of February, a day which was recorded in the logs as cold 
and blustering, but with an atmosphere perfectly clear. The land just off 
the ships, the promontories to the north and south, and the opposite shore, 
showed a clear and distinct wintry aspect, and the view could be readily ex- 
tended for a circuit of many miles, far back to the snowy summits of the 
mountains, which traced their irregular outlines upon the cold grey sky. 

Notwithstanding that the Japanese officials had declared that it would 
require several days before they could bring any answer to the Commodore's 
protest against moving his squadron to Uraga, they came on board the 
Powhatan early the next morning, (February 15.) Commodore Perry had 
suffered since his arrival from a severe indisposition, of which the Japanese 
had heard, and they now made their visit to inquire, as they said, after the 
*Admiral's health. They also stated that they had been instructed to lay 
off the squadron with their boats, in case the Americans had anything to 
communicate, or desired any supplies. They made an offer to bring off 

* The Japanese officials always spoke of the Commodore as the Admiral, not being ac- 
quainted with the former title. 



VISITS FROM JAPANESE OFFICIALS. 385 

wood, water, or anything else the ships might require ; when they were told 
that nothing was wanted at present, but perhaps some fish, eggs, and vege- 
tables might be acceptable in a few days, and that they would be receiv^ed 
provided payment should be taken for them. The Japanese then replied, 
that their proposed supplies were intended as presents, and that they had no 
authority to receive money for them. They seemed to be very fearful lest 
some of the boats should land, but they were assured that they would not be 
allowed to do so. Captain Adams, in the course of the conversation, al- 
luded to the report of the death of the Emperor, but was not very explicit 
in his question, as there seemed to be some doubt of its truth. He merely 
stated that when the squadron had sailed for Japan he had heard that a high 
dignitary had died, and asked whether it was true. To which the 
Japanese answered, " Yes, a very high man died lately." Captain A. — 
" What was his rank ? " Japanese official. — " He was a prince." It was 
thus a matter of the greatest difficulty to get at the truth, the Japanese 
being as indirect and evasive as possible in regard to the simplest matter of 
fact. 

The Japanese dignitaries repeated their official visits day after day, sail- 
ing up in their boats from the long distance of Uraga, and consumed the 
time with offering the most puerile pretexts for coming, and the length of 
their negotiations. Now they would express the greatest solicitude about 
the Commodore's health, and showed their courtesy by bringing him pres- 
ents of bon-bons and confectionary; again they would offer provisions and 
other supplies; at another time they would enter into explanations about the 
Americans going ashore, and on one occasion they brought with them a 
dozen or more naval buttons which had been thrown into their boats, and 
which they returned with the most formal ceremony. They always recurred, 
however, to the question of the vessels going to Uraga, and never ceased 
persisting in their pertinacious solicitations that the Commodore would 
remove his squadron there, notwithstanding the direct and resolute refusal 
with which they were invariably opposed. On their visit on the 18th of 
February they announced that the high officer had arrived at Uraga, and that 
they had been sent to request the Commodore to meet him there. Upon 
being told that it was impossible for the Commodore to go to Uraga, Captain 
Adams then handed them the following document from the Commodore : 

"United States Steam-frigate Powhatan, 
^^ American Amliorage, Yedo Bay^ February 18, 1854. 

" The Commodore expects to be received at Yedo, agreeably to the cus- 
toms of all countries. 

" In consideration of the size of our ships, and their great value, he 
cannot return to the anchorage at Uraga, nor even remain at this place 
25 



386 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

mucli longer, but will have to go higher up the bay towards Yedo, where the 
vessels can be more secure. 

" If the great man (chief commissioner) will appoint an officer of proper 
rank to meet Captain Adams on shore, near where the ships are now lying, 
to determine when and where the interview with the Commodore shall take 
place, he must let us know by noon of Tuesday next. 

" The Commodore will be happy to place a ship at the disposal of the 
great man, to bring him up to the place of interview, and take him back 
again to Uraga, if he wishes it. 

" When the officer comes to meet Captain Adams, he had better bring a 
letter to show that he has proper authority, and a person must be sent to 
conduct Captain Adams to the place of meeting." 

The Japanese received the dispatch from the Commodore without any 
attempt to discuss it, and bore it away with them, with the intention of con- 
sulting, doubtless, with others higher in authority. As they rose to depart, 
they asked if the Commodore had received a letter, through the Dutch at 
Nagasaki, which had been sent to him the previous year by the government 
of Japan. Captain Adams, as he had not been authorized to make any 
revelations on the subject, answered he had no authority to speak on the 
topic. They then took their departure. 

It was on this day (February 18th) that the Commodore transferred his 
broad pennant to the Powhatan. The surveying boats, as usual, were busily 
occupied on duty, but had changed their scene of operations further toward 
Yedo. The Southampton followed in their wake, in order to facilitate the 
work of the surveyors, who had hitherto lost much time by being obliged to 
return, after a day's labor, a great distance to the squadron. The surveying 
party was now, by being immediately followed by a ship, enabled to go on 
board of her at night, without losing time, which it was necessary to econ- 
omise, in order fully to complete the extensive observations they had in 
view. 

The next day was Sunday, (February 19th,) but the Japanese officials, 
notwithstanding, came on board the Powhatan as usual. They were told, 
that it was a day set apart by the Americans as their Sabbath, but that if 
they had anything to say, they would be listened to, in consideration of the 
long distance and inclement weather through which they had come. They 
brought with them a large quantity of vegetables, oranges, fowls, eggs, and 
various sweetened confections, which they courteously offered as a present to 
the Commodore, with a kind inquiry after his health. These were received 
upon their expressing a willingness to receive something in return, and they 
accordingly were presented with some ship's bread and a box of tea ; the 
Japanese remarked, as they received them, they had given eatables only, and 
that it was a Japanese custom to receive eatables only in return. Upon 



P^NIIIPiMilJIii I'll 




LETTER FROM JAPANESE COMMISSIONERS. 387 

being asked whether the Commodore's propositions had been laid before the 
high officer, the officials replied that they had, and that he desired to confer 
about the President's letter at Uraga. The Commodore's objections against 
going to Uraga were again resolutely pressed, but the Japanese merely 
answered, that that place had been selected by the order of the Emperor. 
Captain Adams distinctly declared, that if the Commodore did not receive a 
favorable answer to his request for an interview with the high officer near his 
present anchorage, by the subsequent Tuesday, (February 21st,) " he would 
then know what to do." The Japanese official still reiterated that it was the 
Emperor's order that the interview should be held at Uraga. The next day 
there was another visit, with the usual ceremonies, and a present of oysters 
for the Commodore. 

The Japanese brought with them a short dispatch from the high com- 
missioners, addressed to the Commodore, written in Japanese and Dutch, 
stating their instructions from the government. The translation is as 
follows : 

" We are compelled by the order of the Emperor to meet the ambassador 
of the President of the United States of America either at Kama-kura or 
Uraga. 

" In the interim we shall talk about the negotiations of commerce, and 
the influence it must exercise upon the well-being of the Japanese and 
American nations. It is out of the question now. This is all according to 
truth." 

This document having been laid before the Commodore, he submitted the 
following answer : 

" The Commodore, for the reasons before given, cannot return to Uraga. 
His instructions are to receive the answer of the Emperor to the President's 
letter at Yedo." 

The Japanese having received and perused the answer attentively, con- 
ferred with each other, and then promised that it should be submitted to the 
high officer. Captain Adams now informed them that it was his intention, 
under orders, to go down to Uraga the next day, to declare in person to the 
high officer what had just been delivered in writing from the Commodore. 
The Japanese seemed very anxious to know if he would be accompanied by 
a very large party, and seemed quite tranquillized when told that there would 
be a few officers'only. They promised that a boat should be in readiness, and 
all other preparations made for the reception. In the course of a general 
conversation, they were told that the following Wednesday would be the 
anniversary of Washington's birthday, and that a salute would, in consequence, 
be fired. They seemed perfectly acquainted with the name of the great father 
of our country, and expressed a desire to participate in celebrating the occa- 
sion, asking to be permitted to come off to see the guns fired. They were, 
of course, politely invited, and requested to bring their ladies with them ; 



388 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN 

the latter part of the invitation they, however, jeered at, as a very amusing 
but quite an impracticable joke. 

On Tuesday, the 21st day of February, the Japanese boat came alongside 
the Powhatan, and the officials, on being received aboard, stated that they 
had come to show Captain Adams the landing at Uraga. They were then 
invited to accompany him on board the Yandalia, which ship immediately 
set sail, and moved down the bay. Captain Adams was the bearer of the 
following note from the Commodore to the Japanese authorities : 

" United States Flag-ship Powhatan, 
" American Anchorage, Yedo Bay, February 20, 1854. 

" The undersigned is highly gratified to learn, through the officers of his 
Majesty who have visited the flag-ship, that the imperial court has come to 
the conclusion to respond, in the most cordial manner, to the propositions of 
the President of the United States which the undersigned had the honor to 
present in July last. 

" Inasmuch as the anchorage at Uraga is unsafe and inconvenient, and 
considering the great size and value of the steamers composing a part of 
the command of the undersigned, he does not consider himself justified in 
removing to that place ; on the contrary, he deems it necessary to seek a 
more commodious harbor higher up the bay ; and as his instructions direct 
him to present himself at Yedo, it is desirable that he should approach as 
near as possible to that city, as well for the better convenience of communi- 
cation as with reference, also, to the arrangement and exhibition of the various 
presents sent by the President to his Imperial Majesty. 

" As the mission of the undersigned is of a most friendly character, he is 
not prepared to anticipate any objection to his reception at the seat of gov- 
ernment, conformably to the usages of all the nations of Europe and Amer- 
ica, and he hopes that when the steamers shall have reached the vicinity of 
the city, and secured more suitable moorings, he may have the honor of 
receiving on board his ship such distinguished members of the imperial court 
as may be desirous of viewing the steamers and witnessing the working of 
the machinery. 

" This communication will be presented by Commander H. A. Adams, 
captain of the fleet, who is empowered to receive any written proposition 
addresed to the undersigned, and place at the disposal of the commissioners 
of his Imperial Majesty one of the vessels of the squadron. 
" With the highest respect, 

"M. C. PERKY. 
" Commander-in-chief U. 8. Naval Forces 

"East India, China, and Japan Seas.'''' 

It was calm in the morning, but before the Yandalia had reached Uraga, 



iNTERVIEW WITH COMMISSIONERS. 389 

a strong gale from the southwest, and directly ahead, prevented her from 
reaching the port, and made it necessary for her to anchor under Point 
Rubicon.* Captain Adams, accordingly, was not enabled to land until the 
succeeding day. It being the twenty-second of February, Washington's 
birthday, the Vandalia commenced at noon firing a salute in honor of the 
occasion, and amidst this salvo of artillery Captain Adams left the ship, 
accompanied by a score of officers and attendants, and landed at Uraga, 
where they were met by a large party of Japanese officials, who conducted 
them to a wooden pavilion, which evidently had been but lately constructed. 

Captain Adams and his suite were ushered into a large hall, some fifty 
feet long and forty wide. The floor was spread with soft mats of very fine 
texture, and at a distance of several feet from the walls, on either side, were 
arranged long settees covered with what appeared to be a red felt ; in front 
of them were tables spread with a silken crape. 

The Americans were invited on entering, to take their seats on the left 
hand, which is esteemed by the Japanese the place of honor ; this they had 
no sooner done than the Japanese prince, accompanied by two other high 
dignitaries, entered the hall, through a curtained opening which led into an- 
other compartment. As soon as these dignitaries presented themselves, the 
governor of Uraga, the interpreters, and various Japanese subordinates, who 
had accompanied the Americans, dropped at once upon their knees — a posi- 
tion they retained throughout the interview — and bowed their heads to the 
ground. The prince and his two associates took their seats on the right, op- 
posite to the American officers, and a file of Japanese soldiers, amounting to 
half a hundred, marched in and ranged themselves, on their knees, behind 
the three dignitaries, in the space between their backs and the wall. 

The prince, with his robes of richly embroidered silk, his fine presence) 
his benevolent and intelligent face, and his courtly manners, made quite an 
imposing appearance. 

He first addressed Captain Adams, rising as he spoke, and expressed his 
pleasure at seeing him. His interpreters translated his Japanese into Dutch, 
which was then repeated in English by the American interpreter, Mr. Port- 
man. The audience then commenced in form, and was conducted throughout 
with the most friendly expression of feeling on both sides. 

Captain Adams commenced by stating, that it was quite evident that 
Uraga was not a proper place for the ships, since the anchorage was so much 
exposed. The Japanese replied, that it had been ordered by the Emperor 
to receive the Admiral there, and to deliver the answer to the President's 
letter there. Captain Adams, without at the moment pushing this subject 

* Point Rubicon is a headland, in the bay, which had received that name from the 
Commodore, because it was just abreast of it when the surveying boats, on the first visit to 
Yedo Bay, had, in spite of some show of opposition on the part of the Japanese, persisted in 
carrying on the operations with success, and thus passed, as it were, the Rubicon. 



390 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN 

further, handed his card to the prince, and requested his in return. 
He was told that he should have it in a few minutes, when the Japanese 
prince, requesting to be excused for a few moments, retired through the cur- 
tained door into an adjacent apartment. In the meantime the attendants 
handed round tea, in small China cups handsomely adorned, and borne upon 
wooden tra3^s beautifully lacquered. The Japanese interpreters apologized 
for the meagreness of the repast, and entered into an informal conversation, 
in the course of which they asked for the names of the American officers who 
were present, and inquired whether they were satisfied with Uraga as a pro- 
per place for the reception of the President's letter. 

This subject was uppermost in their minds, and they seemed resolved to 
press it on all occasions, as they were very desirous of preventing any nearer 
approach of the squadron to Yedo ; being instructed, no doubt, to attempt 
to accomplish this purpose at all hazards. They were told that Captain 
Adams had a letter upon the subject from the Commodore, and were remind- 
ed of the severe weather to which the Yandalia had been exposed, and how 
impossible it was to place the squadron in a position so little protected against 
the stormy season then prevailing. 

The prince now entered, and his card was handed to Captain Adams, upon 
which was recorded his full name and title, thus : Hayashi-Daigaku-no-kami, 
i. e., Hayashi, prince of Daigaku. 

Captain Adams now handed the Commodore's letter, which has alread}^ 
been given in full, to the prince, accompanying it with a statement in regard 
to the insecure anchorage at Uraga, and the necessity of having shelter, 
space, and smooth water, for mooring the squadron, and repairing one of the 
ships which had become leaky. He also emphatically declared that it was 
quite impossible for the Commodore to come to Uraga, but that he would be 
very happy to send one of his steamers to convey the prince up the bay to a 
place of meeting, near the anchorage of the American ships. 

The prince and his coadjutors now retired to consider the Commodore's 
letter. In the meantime refreshments were presented, consisting of tea, of a 
cake resembling our sponge cake, candy, various fruits, and their saki. 

A general conversation ensued in regard to the building which the Japan- 
ese said had been especially constructed for the meeting with the Commo- 
dore, the depth of the harbor, and other points of no material interest. 

The Japanese interpreters, in answer to the objections urged against the 
security of the port of Uraga, insisted that it was perfectly safe, and request- 
ed Captain Adams to make a survey of it, in order to convince himself; and 
again and again earnestly urged upon him to entreat the Commodore to 
bring his ships there, and meet the Japanese high officers, who had been ap- 
pointed to treat with him ; saying that if he would come, the whole treaty 
might be arranged before night. Capt. Adams, in answer, said that he would 
inform the Commodore, when the conversation was interrupted by the re- 



VISIT OF YEZAIMAN, AT URAGA. 391 

appearance of the three Japanese high dignitaries. Upon entering, they an- 
nounced that they had carefully perused the Commodore's letter three or 
four times, but were not prepared to give an answer, as they would be obliged 
to consult the other high officers appointed by the Emperor, and who were 
now in waiting at Uraga. On being asked when the answer would be ready, 
they appointed the third day after the interview. Captain Adams strove to 
impress upon them the necessity of dispatch, in consequence of the insecurity 
of the ship, in the prevailing stormy weather at Uraga, and of explicitness 
in their answer, as the Commodore was anxious to bring matters to a con- 
clusion, and to send to America one of his ships to report progress in the 
negotiations, and prevent others from coming out. The conference now 
being at an end, the prince and his coadjutors bowed politely and retired. 

The weather being stormy and the water in the bay very rough, the Ameri- 
can officers delayed their return to the Yandalia, and occupied the interval in 
strolling about and viewing the neighborhood. Hardly anything could be seen, 
however, of the town and the people, as the Japanese authorities had, in accord- 
ance with their usual custom, hemmed in the shore, on both sides of the au- 
dience hall, with cotton screens of some eight feet in height, which excluded 
the houses from the sight of the strangers. Crowds of men, women, and 
children could be observed, however, in the distance, thronging upon the sur- 
rounding hills, and gazing eagerly at the Americans. When the storm had 
somewhat abated. Captain Adams and his party, having been presented, in 
accordance with Japanese practice, with paper parcels containing the 
remains of the refreshments which had been left upon their plates or salvers, 
returned to their ship lying off the harbor. Some went back in the Vanda- 
lia's boats, while others accepted the offers of the Japanese officials, and put 
off in their craft. The superior excellence of the Japanese boats, in a sea, 
was admirably proved, by the fact that those on board of them reached the 
ship with dry jackets, while the others were wet through and through by the 
dashing spray. The use of the scull instead of the oar may partially account 
for this advantage of the Japanese boats, although their construction has 
something to do with it. The sculls never leave the water, while the oars 
are constantly in and out, dipping up considerable spray, which at every 
stroke is blown, in case of a high wind, all over the persons in a boat of our 
usual construction. 

On the next morning (February 23) the Yandalia was still lying off 
Uraga, when our old acquaintance, Yezaiman, the governor of Uraga, present- 
ed himself. This, it will be remembered, was the dignitary who had figured 
so conspicuously during the first visit of the squadron to the Bay of Yedo. 
His absence hitherto had created great surprise, and it was naturally feared 
that his conduct on the previous occasion had not been approved of by his 
government, and that he had fallen into disgrace, or possibly had been re- 
duced to the disagreeable necessity of disembowelling himself. He however 



392 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

explained his long absence on the score of illness, and the immense pressure 
of public business. He expressed great pleasure in seeing his old acquaint- 
ances, and proved himself the same affable, courteous gentleman, as on all pre- 
vious occasions. Yezaiman explained the object of his visit by presenting a 
letter from himself, in which he informally, as he stated, though undoubtedly 
with the connivance of the government, repeated the assurances of the friendly 
disposition of the Emperor, and earnestly solicited Captain Adams to use his 
influence with the " Admiral " to prevail upon him to concede the point in 
regard to Uraga. Everything, of course, was referred to Commodore Perry, 
although the belief was expressed that he would resolutely adhere to his 
original determination. Yezaiman having promised that the answer of the 
high officers to the Commodore's letter should be brought on board the next 
day, took his departure. 

Accordingly early the next morning (February 24) the Japanese, having 
brought the dispatch in answer to the Commodore's letter, and having taken 
the occasion of urging their views aboat Uraga, for their first and last word 
was perpetually Uraga ! Uraga ! the Yandalia got under way to join the 
squadron at the American anchorage. The ship, however, had not proceeded 
far when the steamers and sailing vessels were observed in the distance 
ahead, standing up the bay. 

The Commodore, having little hope of any favorable result from the visit 
of Captain Adams to Uraga, had determined to put his threat into execution^ 
and had actually removed the squadron, during the absence of the Yandalia, 
to a spot whence Yedo might be seen from the mast-head. So near, indeed, 
did he approach to that capital, that the striking of the city bells during the 
night could be distinctly heard. As a measure of precaution, the surveying 
boats always sounded in advance of the ships, and when the Yandalia was 
seen to approach with Captain Adams on board, bearing the dispatch of the 
high officers at Uraga, the surveying party was absent engaged in further 
explorations towards Yedo. Next morning (February 25), while the squad- 
ron was anchored off the town of Kanagawa, one of the Yandalia's boats ar- 
rived, and came alongside the flagship, bringing Captain Adams, who handed 
the Commodore the following letter from the high officer : 

" To Admiral M. C. Perry : 

" The undersigned, ambassadors of the Emperor of Japan, have perused 
and understood the letter of the Lord Admiral, and in reply may remark : 
" The Lord Admiral is right in going up to Yedo, to be received there 
according to the custom in Europe and America. According to the Japan- 
ese custom ambassadors are commissioned, and a building erected, for the 
reception of ambassadors from foreign countries in a friendly manner, and 
with high consideration. 

" The Emperor has sent us to Uraga to receive the Admiral with the 



TEZAIMAN PROPOSES YOKU-HAMA 393 

highest honor, and to extend the Japanese hospitality towards him, and have 
the interview at that place in compliance with the order of the Emperor, re 
gardless of the customs of foreign countries. 

" We wish this to be well understood : we desire the Admiral to come to 
Uraga, there to have the interview with us in the building aforesaid, and 
would gratefully acknowledge the friendly meeting of the Lord Admiral in 
complying with this order of the Emperor, and our own wishes. 

" Our best wishes for the health of the Admiral. 

" HAYASHI-DAiaAKU-NO-KAMI. 

" The 27th Siogoots, 1854. 

The arrival of Captain Adams was soon followed by that of Keyama 
Yezaiman, the governor of Uraga, who made his appearance with the alleged 
object of receiving a reply to the high officer's letter, but, as it will appear, for an- 
other purpose. Yezaiman commenced by inquiring whether the Commodore 
was still determined not to return to Uraga, and being answered in the af- 
firmative, he again offered supplies, and was again told that wood and water 
would be received. Yezaiman replied that these articles would be cheerfully 
furnished, but that they could be obtained only at Uraga. He was then in- 
formed that it was a matter of indifierence whence they came, but that the 
Commodore would not go to Uraga, and if the Japanese did not bring water 
to the ships, the Commodore would send on shore and procure it by some 
means. 

Finding that the Commodore was immovable in purpose, and evidently 
inclined to approach nearer to Yedo, Yezaiman suddenly abandoned the pre- 
viously pretended ultimatum of the Japanese commissioners, as to the place of 
meeting, and suggested a spot in the immediate neighborhood of the village 
of Yoku-hama, directly opposite to where the ships then were anchored. 

Thus, after having interposed for the last ten days all possible objections 
to the squadron's moving further up the bay, and having used every 
inducement to prevail upon the Commodore to return to Uraga, they 
suddenly abandoned the position from which they had so frequently declared 
they could not possibly be moved. They had discovered that the Commo- 
dore was not to be shaken from his resolution, and, finding that the ships had 
already approached within eight miles of their capital, they thought it politic 
to stop them there, while it was practicable, by a conciliatory concession. 

The motive of the Commodore for thus persisting, with what may seem 
obstinacy, in his determination not to go to Uraga, is best explained by him- 
self In his communication to the honorable Secretary, on this subject, he 
thus writes : 

" I was convinced that if I receded in the least from the position first as- 
sumed by me, it would be considered by the Japanese an advantage gained ; 
and finding that I could be induced to change a predetermined intention in 



394 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

one instance, they might rely on prevailing on me, by dint of perseverance, 
to waver in most other cases pending the negotiations ; therefore, it seemed 
to be the true policy to hold out at all hazards, and rather to establish for 
myself a character for unreasonable obstinacy, than that of a yielding dispo- 
sition. I knew that upon the impression thus formed by them would in a ^ 
measure hinge the tenor of our future negotiations ; and the sequel will show 
that I was right in my conclusions. Indeed, in conducting all my business 
with these very sagacious and deceitful people, I have found it profitable to 
bring to my aid the experience gained in former and by no means limited 
intercourse with the inhabitants of strange lands, civilized and barbarian ; 
and this experience has admonished me that, with people of forms, it is ne- 
cessary either to set all ceremony aside, or to out-Herod Herod in assumed 
personal consequence and ostentation. 

" I have adopted the two extremes — by an exhibition of great pomp, 
when it could properly be displayed, and by avoiding it, when such pomp 
would be inconsistent with the spirit of our institutions ; and by resolving 
never to recognize, on any occasion, the slightest personal superiority, always 
meeting the Japanese officials, however exalted their rank, with perfect equal- 
ity, whilst those of comparative distinction, of their own nation, were cring- 
ing and kneeling to them ; and from motives of policy, and to give greater 
importance to my own position, I have hitherto studiously kept myself aloof 
from intercourse with any of the subordinates of the court, making it known 
that I would communicate with none but the princes of the Empire. Up to 
this time, I have succeeded far beyond my expectations in maintaining this 
extreme point of diplomacy, and, as I believe, to very great advantage. 

" It is probable that arrogance may be charged against me for persisting 
as I did, and against the judgment of all about me, in changing the place 
of conference, and thus compelling four princes of the Empire to follow the 
squadron, and subjecting the government to the trouble and expense of erect- 
ing another building ; but I was simply adhering to a course of policy deter- 
mined on after mature reflection, and which had hitherto worked so 
well" 

The Commodore expressed a willingness to accede to the last proposition 
of the Japanese, provided his officers, on examining the place selected, 
should find it suitable. Captains Buchanan and Adams accordingly, having 
visited the spot in company with Yezaiman, returned with a favorable report. 
The situation was suitable in ail respects, being near to Yedo, with safe and 
commodious anchorage at a mile distant from the shore, and affording abun- 
dant space for landing and exhibiting the presents intended for the Emperor. 
The Commodore accordingly determined to concur in the choice of the place 
now selected, and notified his resolution in the following communication • 



COMMENCED. 395 

" United States Flag-ship Powhatax. 
^^ At anchor off the town of Yohu-hama; Yedo Bay, March 3, 1854. 

" Your Excellency : The letter of your excellency from Uraga was 
duly delivered by Captain Adams ; and shortly after, when it was ascertained 
that I could not agree to return to Uraga, Keyama Yezaiman suggested that 
the negotiations might be conducted at a village opposite the present anchor- 
age of the squadron. 

" Being exceedingly desirous of meeting the wishes of your excellency, in 
every way consistent with the honor and interest of my country, and learn- 
ing that the place pointed out was in all respects convenient for the purpose, I 
at once consented to defer my visit to Yedo until after the completion of the 
negotiations. 

" I the more readily entered into this arrangement, as, on examination of 
the port by the surveying boats, it has been found that the ships can approach 
near to the city, where I propose at some future time to anchor them, as 
well to do honor to his Imperial Majesty by salutes, &c., as to be in full 
view of the palace, and convenient to be visited by such of the court as may 
desire to examine the steamers and their machinery, and I hardly need say 
that they will be kindly and politely received. 
" With the most profound respect, 

"M. C. PERKY, 
" Commander-in-chief United States Naval Forces East India, 
China, and Japan Seas, and Special Ambassador to Japan. 

" His Highness Hayashi-Daigaku-no-kami, &c., &c., &c." 

The surveying boats had been kept busy during the progress of all this 
negotiation, and immediately after the Commodore had signified his intention 
of accepting the proposition of the Japanese offering Yoku-hama as the place 
of meeting, the party of surveyors returned to the Powhatan, and reported 
that they had found six fathoms of water within four or five miles of Yedo. 
This near approach to their capital was supposed to be the clue to the sud- 
den change in the policy of the Japanese, as they doubtless feared that the 
Commodore would proceed at once to execute his threat of moving his squad- 
ron to Yedo, if the authorities still persisted in their demands for him to 
return to Uraga. 

The Japanese now commenced constructing at once a wooden building 
for the proposed conference, and great numbers of workmen were seen busily 
engaged in bringing materials and puttiug them together in the form of a 
large and irregular structure. The ship's boats were sent out to examine 
the anchorage opposite the place, and the Commodore, after receiving a 
favorable report, directed (February 27) the squadron to be moored in a 
line abreast, and within a mile of Yoku-hama, covering with their guns an 
extent of shore of five miles. Captains Buchanan and Adams went ashore 



396 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN 

soon after the anchoring of the ships, to see the buildings in progress of 
erection, and to instruct the Japanese workmen how to make the wharf for 
the landing of the Commodore and his party. Accordingly, when Yezaiman 
came on board the Powhatan, on March 3d, he alluded with some expression 
of anxiety to the fact of some of the Americans having landed, fearing, he 
said, lest some trouble might ensue, if this should be continued, between 
our people and the natives. As soon, however, as he was told the purpose 
of the visit, and of the Commodore's order that no one of his men should be 
allowed to land, he seemed satisfied. 

Captain Adams now gave the governor of Uraga a letter which had 
been written to his friends by a Japanese who belonged to the squadron, 
and was generally known among the sailors by the sobriquet of Sam Patch. 
Sam was one of the crew, consisting of sixteen men of a Japanese junk 
which had been driven oflF in a storm from the coast of Japan. An Amer- 
ican merchant vessel, having fallen in with the junk, took the Japanese on 
board and conveyed them to San Francisco, where they were removed to a 
revenue cutter. They remained on the cutter twelve months, when they 
were taken by the United States sloop-of-war St. Mary's to China, and there 
transferred to the Susquehanna. When this steamer joined Commodore 
Perry's squadron, bound to Japan, the Japanese all preferred to remain in 
China, lest if they returned home they should lose their lives, with the ex- 
ception of Sam Patch, who remained on board, and being regularly shipped 
as one of the crew, was with the squadron on the first, as he was now on the 
second visit to Japan. Upon his letter being presented to Yezaiman, he 
was requested to deliver it in accordance with the direction, which he prom- 
ised to do, but the Japanese seemed very much surprised at the fact of one of 
their countrymen being among the crew, and expressed an earnest desire to 
see him. Yezaiman was accordingly promised that his request should be 
complied with in the course of a few days. 

Yezaiman and his interpreters, to whom there was now added a new one, 
of the name of Moryama Yenoske, who spoke a little English, which he was 
said to have acquired from an American sailor who had been a captive in 
Japan, and was one of those taken away by the Preble, came off daily to the 
ships. As the building on shore was in progress, the details of its erection, 
and the prospective interview ashore, were naturally daily topics of conver- 
sation. The coming ceremonies were spoken of, and the rank and number 
of those who were to participate in them discussed. Yezaiman, in accordance 
with the request of the Commodore, submitted the names and credentials of 
the high commissioners who were to represent the government of Japan at 
the approaching conference. The following is a translation of the letter of 
credence of the imperial officers : 



SUPPLIES THAT JAPANESE CAN FUKNISH. 397 

Hayashi Daigaku-no-kami, Ido-Tsus-sima-no-kami, Izawa Mema-saki-no- 
KAMi, Udono Mimbusco : 

You are hereby empowered to bold interviews witb bis excellency tbe 
American ambassador on bis arrival, and to negotiate concerning tbe business 
wbicb bas been communicated to you. 
SioGooTS. KA-EI-SILSI-NEU. [seal of the Emperor.] 

Yezaiman baving said, tbat now as bis government knew tbe Americans 
better, and bad entire confidence in tbem, tbere would be no Japanese 
soldiers brougbt out at tbe coming interview at Yoku-bama, as before at 
Gora-bama, be was assured tbat tbe guard tbat would accompany tbe Com- 
modore was only intended to do bonor to tbe occasion. A conversation tben 
ensued wbicb, as it refers to tbe important subject of tbe resources of Japan, 
in regard to coal and otber supplies, it is tbougbt of sufficient importance 
to give verbatim, as reported by tbe Commodore's secretary. Captain Adams, 
it will be observed, was still acting in bebalf of Commodore Perry, as tbe 
latter continued bis policy of seclusion. 

Yezaiman (baving first alluded to tbe fact of tbe President's letter 
stating tbat coal would be probably wanted by American steamers toucbing 
on tbe coast of Japan) asked, " bow much will you need annually ? " 

Captain Adams. " It is quite impossible now to say what amount will 
be needed ; sbips will call and get wbat tbey want. Tbe Commodore, bow- 
ever, will speak on this point witb tbe Commissioners." 

Yezaiman. " We bave plenty of coal, but a port is asked for to get it 
from — tbat is, a port wbere a sbip can take it in conveniently." 

Captain Adams. " Yes : a port lying along tbe soutbern sbores of Nip- 
pon would be most convenient, but tbe Commodore will arrange tbat. 
Wbere is tbe best coal found ? " 

Yezaiman. " Tbe most abundant supply and tbe best coal come from 
Kiusiu. I do not know bow much tbere is in Nippon, but tbere is none in 
Sikok." Yezaiman tben changed the subject by asking, " Wbat sort of 
provisions do you want ? We bave the greatest abundance of wheat and 
vegetables at Nagasaki." 

Captain Adams. " Our ships will only take such supplies as you can 
furnish." 

Yezaimaji. " Our principal supplies are pork, beef, sheep, poultry, and 
vegetables of many kinds, but no Irish potatoes."* 

Captain Adams. " Did you give tbe Russians any coal ? " 

Yezaiman. " Yes; a little from time to time, and they said it was very 

* Yezaiman means at Nagasaki, where limited supplies of this kind are kept for stran- 
gers. The Japanese, in general, do not use the meats here named.. 



398 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN 

good." Yezaiman then promised to bring a specimen of their coal, which 
he said was a fuel seldom used by the Japanese. 

The arrival of the Saratoga, on the fourth of March, was quite an event 
to all the officers and men in the squadron, who, confined to the narrow 
limits of an anchored ship, month after month, with no variety in the daily 
routine of duty, and no change of scene from the monotonous view of the 
same look-out from deck, gladly welcomed anything that could break up for 
a moment the tedium of their life. The Saratoga had experienced very 
severe weather, which those in the squadron, although sheltered in a safe 
anchorage, could readily understand, for the season, even in the bay, had 
given evidence enough of its rude inclemency. Frequently the wind was 
so high and the waters of the bay so disturbed, that the surveying boats 
were obliged to intermit their labors. The frequent recurrence of rain, 
alternating with an occasional snow-storm, and a cold temperature more 
penetrating to the sensations, from its moisture, gave all a very disagreeable 
experience of a Japan winter. The hard-working Japanese boatmen seemed 
alone insensible to the weather ; and, as they worked vigorously at their 
long sculls, sang cheerily, as if their half-naked bodies were as much proof 
against cold wind and boisterous weather, as their taut built craft. 

According to agreement, Sam Patch was brought forward and presented 
to the Japanese officials, and no sooner did he behold these dignitaries than 
he prostrated himself at once, apparently completely awe-stricken. Sam had 
been frequently laughed at during the voyage by his messmates, and teazed 
by statements of the danger to which his head would be exposed on his 
arrival in his own country, and the poor fellow possibly thought his last 
hour had come. Captain Adams ordered him to rise from his knees, upon 
which he was crouching with the most abject fear, and trembling in every 
limb. He was reminded that he was on board an American man-of-war, 
perfectly safe as one of her crew, and had nothing to fear ; but it being 
found impossible to reassure him while in the presence of his countrymen, he 
was soon dismissed. But more of Sam hereafter. 

The eighth of March had been appointed by the Commodore as the day for 
the conference ashore ; and, as crowds of Japanese laborers were kept busily 
at work upon the building, there seemed every prospect of its being ready 
in time. When the building was finished, the usual Japanese deputation, 
headed by Yezaiman, came off to the Powhatan, and, announcing the fact, 
asked if the Admiral would be ready to land on the next day (March 8). 
They were told that, provided the weather should be suitable, the Commo- 
dore and his party would leave the squadron at twelve o'clock on the mor- 
row. Yezaiman entered into some preliminary explanations in regard to the 
ceremonies on the occasion. He asked the numbers and names of all the 
officers in the squadron, with the purpose, as he said, of providing presents 
for each. Upon being asked whether the chief of the commissioners ap- 



NEGOTIATIONS ABOUT COMMENCING 



399 



pointed to negotiate with the Commodore was next in rank to the Emperor, 
Yezaiman answered that he was, and at the same time corrected a previous 
statement, saying that, instead of four dignitaries in addition to the high 
commissioner, there would be five. With the usual courtly assurances of 
kindly feeling, Yezaiman and his suite took leave, saying, as he departed, 
that he would send a person on board next day to conduct the Commodore 
and his party to the land. 




Yoku-hama, Bay of Yedo. 



CHAPTER XIX. 



Ships anchored in Yoku-hama Bay so as to command the shore.— Kanagawa " treaty bouse."— Imperial 
barge. — Landing of the Commodore. — Description of the Japanese commissioners. — Interpreters. — 
Servility to superiors. — Negotiations commenced. — Commodore submits a copy of the treaty of the 
United States with China for consideration.— Death of one of our men. — Commodore proposes to buy 
a burial ground for Americans. — Commissioners propose to send the body of the deceased to Nagasaki 
for interment. — Commodore refuses, and proposes to bury the dead on Webster's island. — Commission- 
ers consent to the interment at Yoku-hama. — The burial by Chaplain Jones. — Interest of the Japa- 
nese in the ceremony. — They afterward perform their own rites over the covered grave. — The Japa- 
nese build an enclosure around the spot. — Japanese artists attempt the portraits of our officers. — 
Answer to the President's letter. — Informal conference between Captain Adams and Yenoske. — Land- 
ing and delivery of the presents. — Japanese worKmen assist the Americans in preparing for their exhi- 
bition. — Negotiations contmued. — Surprise and delight of the Japanese at the telegraph and railroad. 
— Curiosity of the Japanese in examining mechanism. — Passion for buttons. — Note-taking of every 
thing strange to them. — Love of pictures. — Drawings. — Common people disposed to social intercourse 
with the Americans. — Excitement on Chaplain Bittinger's attempt to reach Yedo by land. — Written 
reply of commissioners, declining to make a treaty like that of the United States with China. — Fur- 
ther negotiations. — Accuracy of the Japanese in noting all the discussions. — Ports of Simoda and 
Hakodadi agreed to, but with great difficulty on the part of the Japanese. 



LONG- the western side of 
the Bay of Yedo, from its 
mouth, where it opens into 
the Gulf of Yedo, to the 
capital, there is almost a con- 
tinuous range of towns and 
villages. The only breaks 
in this otherwise uninter- 
rupted scene of populousness 
are the projecting spurs of 
the highlands, which, pre- 
senting less advantage for 
habitation, naturally prevent 
the erection of dwelling 
houses. These promonto- 
ries, however, are covered 
with batteries, which are 
more formidable in aspect than in reality, for their guns are but of small 




YOKU-HAMA AND KANAGAWA. 401 

calibre, and the defences slight in construction. Yoku-liama is one of these 
numerous and populous villages, and is situated at the head of a hay called 
on the American charts " Yoku-hama Bay," which is formed by Point 
Hope, on the southeast, and the neck of land extending northeast from 
Kanagawa to the suburb of the city of Yedo, termed Sinagawa, and near 
to which the junks resorting to the capital usually anchor. At the position 
in front of Yoku-hama there was just sufficient room to anchor in a line of 
battle the whole squadron ; the guns of the several ships commanding an 
extent of shore equal to the entire range. It was in this position that the 
Commodore had placed his nine ships — the steam frigates, the Powhatan? 
which was the flag-ship, the Susquehanna, and the Mississippi, and the sail- 
ing ships, the Macedonian, the Yandalia, the Saratoga, the Southampton, 
the Lexington, and the Supply, the latter having subsequently joined the 
squadron.* 

Kanagawa is quite a large town, and was the residence of the Japanese 
commissioners pending the negotiations of the treaty, and it would have 
been selected by Commodore Perry for the place of conference, had it not 
been for the impossibility of the ships approaching within gunshot of its 
front towards the bay. He therefore preferred to select YoktJ-hama, to 
confirm the choice of Captains Buchanan and Adams, who had been sent to 
examine and report upon the most eligible anchorage for the squadron. 

The building erected for the accommodation of the Japanese commis- 
sioners and the Commodore, and the numerous persons in attendance, and 
which was called by the Americans the " treaty house," was placed upon a 
level plain near to the shore, and contiguous to the village of Yoku-hama, 
being distant from Kanagawa three, from the southern suburb of the capital 
five, and from Yedo itself probably nine miles. The treaty house had been 
hastily erected of unpainted pine wood, with peaked roofs, and covered a 
large extent of ground, having a reception hall of from forty to sixt}' feet 
in area, and several adjoining apartments and offices. From each side ex- 
tended yellow canvas screens, divided into panel-like squares by black 
painted stripes. On the exterior walls of the building was spread a dark 
cloth, upon which was represented in bright colors some device, which wa^^ 
said to be the arms of the third commissioner, Izawa, prince of Mimasaki. 

At an early hour on the 8th of March, the day appointed for the confer- 
ence with the Japanese commissioners, there was an unusual stir ashore 
preparatory to the ceremonies of the occasion. The Japanese workmen 
were busily engaged in adorning the treaty house with streamers and other 
gay paraphernalia. Two poles were erected, one on either side of the en- 
trance, to which were hung long oblong banners of white cotton cloth with 
a bright red stripe across the centre. On the peaked roof of the building 

* The Supply arrived with coal and stores for the squadron on the 19th of March. 

2(5 



402 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN 

was placed a tall staff, surmounted with a circular ornament, in shape like 
the upper part of a chandelier, from which was suspended a heavy silken 
tassel. In the preparation of the place it had been surrounded by the usual 
enclosure of cloth, which completely excluded it from the view of those 
without, and, in fact, seemed to enclose it within a sort of prison yard. 
The Commodore, who saw this arrangement from his ship before he landed, 
immediately sent an officer on shore to demand what it meant, and, in an- 
swer to some frivolous pretext about preventing intrusion and doing honor 
to the occasion, informed the Japanese that he would forego the honor, and 
that, until it was completely removed, he could not think of landing. It 
was immediately taken down by the Japanese. 

Bands of flag-bearers, musicians, and pikemen manoeuvred in order, here 
and there, glistening with their lacq[uered caps, bright colored costumes, 
crimson streamers, showy emblazonry, and burnished spears. There was no 
great military display as on the first visit at Grora-hama, and the few who 
had the look of soldiers were merely a small body-guard, composed of the 
retainers of the various high dignitaries who were to officiate on the occa- 
sion. Crowds of people had gathered from the neighboring towns and vil- 
lages, and were thronging with curious eagerness on either side of a large 
open space on the shore, which was kept free from intrusion by barriers, 
within which none of the spectators were allowed to enter. Two or three 
officials were seen busily moving about, now directing the workmen, and 
again checking the disorder among the Japanese multitude. 

Soon a large barge came floating down the bay, from the neighboring 
town of Kanagawa. This was a gaily painted vessel, which, with its decks 
and open pavilion rising high above the hull, had very much the appearance 
of one of our western river steamboats, while streamers floated from its 
three masts, and bright colored flags and variegated drapery adorned the 
open deck above. This barge bore the Japanese commissioners, and when 
it had reached to within a short distance of the shore, these dignitaries and 
their suites disembarked in several boats and hurried to the land. An im- 
mense number of Japanese craft of all kinds, each with a tassel at its prow 
and a square striped flag at its stern, gathered about the bay. The day was 
fresh and clear, and every thing had a cheerful aspect, in spite of the lin- 
gering wintry look of the landscape. 

The Commodore had made every preparation to distinguish the occasion 
of his second landing in Japan by all necessary parade, knowing, as he did, 
the importance and moral influence of such show upon so ceremonious and 
artificial a people as the Japanese. He had, accordingly, issued orders to 
the effect that all the marines who could be spared from duty should appear 
on the occasion in full accoutrement, that the bands of music from the three 
steamers should be present, and all the officers and sailors that could possi- 
bly leave. The officers were to be in undress uniform, frock coats, cap and 




< 
o 



LANDING TO NEGOTIATE. 403 

epaulets, and equipped with swords and pistols. The sailors were to be 
armed with muskets, cutlasses and pistols, and dressed in blue jackets and 
trowsers and white frocks. The musicians were each to be supplied with 
cutlass and pistol, and every man of the escort provided with either musket 
or pistol cartridge boxes. 

At half-past eleven o'clock the escort, consisting of about five hundred 
officers, seamen and marines, fully armed, embarked in twenty-seven boats, 
under the command of Commander Buchanan, and forming a line abreast, 
pulled in good order to the shore. When the escort had landed, the ma- 
rines were drawn up in a hollow square, leaving a wide open space between 
them, while the naval officers remained in a group at the wharf. The ship's 
boats were arranged in two separate divisions of equal numbers on either 
side of the landing, with their bows pointing in regular order from the 
shore. The Commodore now embarked from the Powhatan in his barge, 
under a salute from the Macedonian of seventeen guns. The Commodore, 
on landing, was received by the group of officers, who, falling into a line, 
followed him. The bands now struck up a lively tune, and the marines, 
whose orderly ranks in complete military appointment, with their blue and 
white uniforms, and glistening baj^onets, made quite a martial and effective 
show, presented arms as the Commodore, followed in procession by his im- 
mediate staff, his guard of fine-looking sailors and a number of his subordi- 
nate officers, proceeded up the shore. A group of richly costumed Japanese 
guards, or retainers, with banners, flags and streamers, were gathered on 
each side of the entrance of the treaty house. As the Commodore and his 
party passed up between these, they were met by a large number of Japa- 
nese officials who came out, and uncovering, conducted them into the inte- 
rior of the building. As they entered, by a preconcerted arrangement, 
howitzers which had been mounted on the bows of the larger ships' boats, 
that were floating just by the shore, commenced firing in admirable order a 
salute of twenty-one guns in honor of the Emperor, which were succeeded 
by a salute of seventeen for Hayashi Daigaku-no-kami, the high commis- 
sioner, and the hoisting of the Japanese striped flag from the masthead of 
the steamer Powhatan in the bay. 

The apartment into which the Commodore and his officers first entered 
was a large hall, arranged in a manner similar to that at Gori-hama. Thick 
rice-straw mats carpeted the floor, long and wide settees, covered with a red 
cloth, extended along the sides, with tables spread with the same material 
arranged in front of them. The windows were composed of panes of oiled 
paper, through which a subdued and mellow light illuminated the hall, while 
a comfortable temperature was kept up (for, although the spring, which is 
early in Japan, had already opened, the weather was chilly) by copper bra- 
ziers of burning charcoal, which, supported upon lacquered wooden stands, 
were freely distributed about Hangings fell from the walls around, with 



404 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

paintings of trees, and representations of various animals and birds, partic- 
ularly of the crane, with its long neck in every variety of strange involu- 
tion. 

The Commodore and his officers and interpreters had hardly taken their 
seats on the left, the place of honor, and the various Japanese officials, of 
whom there was a goodly number, theirs on the right, when the five com- 
missioners entered from an apartment which opened through an entrance at 
the upper end of the hall. As soon as they presented themselves the sub- 
ordinate Japanese officials prostrated themselves on their knees, and remained 
in that attitude during their presence. 

The commissioners were certainly august-looking personages, and their 
grave but courteous manners, and their rich flowing robes of silk, set them 
off to the highest advantage. Their costume consisted of an under gar- 
ment somewhat similar to the antique doublet, and a pair of very wide and 
short trowsers of figured silk, while below, the legs were encased in white 
cotton or woollen socks, laced to some distance above the ankles. The socks 
were so contrived that the great toe was separated from the other four, for 
the passage of the band which attached to the sandal, and joined another 
from the heel at the ankle, where the two were tied together. Over the 
doublet and trowsers a loose gown of embroidered silk, something in the 
shape of the clerical robe, with loose sleeves, was worn. This was secured 
to the waist by a sash, in which are usually thrust the two swords which 
mark the dignitaries of higher rank. The three princes alone, of all the 
commissioners, were observed to wear a white inner shirt, or vest, which 
was exposed at the breast. This was a mark of the very highest rank, and 
belongs exclusively to princes and the loftiest dignitaries of the Empire. 

Hayashi Daigaku-no-kami, prince councillor, was evidently the chief 
member of the commission, for all matters of importance were referred to 
him. He was a man of about fifty-five years of age, was handsomely formed, 
and had a grave and rather saturnine expression of face, though he had a be- 
nevolent look and exceedingly courtly manners. Ido, Prince of Tsusima, was 
probably fifty, or thereabout, and was corpulent and tall in person. He had 
a rather more vivacious expression than the elder Hayashi. The third and 
youngest of the princes was the Prince of Mima-saki, who could hardly be 
much beyond forty years of age, and was by far the best-looking of the three. 
He was quite gay, fond of fun and frolic, and had the reputation of being a 
Lothario. According to the interpreters, Mima-saki entertained more lib- 
eral views with respect to foreign intercourse than any of his coadjutors, and 
seemed to be a great favorite with the Japanese, as he certainly was with 
all the Americans. His gaiety of heart manifested itself very apparently in 
his fondness for the music of the bands of the squadron, and he could not keep 
his hands and feet quiet whenever they struck up a lively air. 

Udono, who, though not a prince, was a man of high station, and was 



COMMISSIONERS AND INTERPRETERS. 405 

known by the title of Mimbu-shijoyu, or member of the board of revenue, 
was a tall, passable looking man, but his features were prominent and had 
much of the Mongolian caste. The fifth and last one of the five commis- 
sioners was Matsusaki Michitaro, whose rank and title were not discovered. 
His precise business in the commission it was difficult to fathom ; he was 
always present at the conference, but took his seat constantly at rather a 
remote distance from the other dignitaries, on the further end of the sedan. 
By him there was continually crouched, upon his knees, a scribe, who was 
constantly employed in taking notes of what was passing, and occasionally 
under the promptings of his superior. Matsusaki was rather an equivocal 
character, difficult to understand. He had not originally been mentioned 
as a member of the commission, and his accession to the diplomatic force 
seemed to have been a second thought, since the presence of a fifth commis- 
sioner was not alluded to until a day or two previous to the conference. 
He was a man of sixty years of age at least, had a long, drawn-out meagre 
body, a very yellow bilious face, an uncomfortable dyspeptic expression, 
which his excessive short-sightedness did not improve, for it caused him, in 
his efi"orts at seeing, to give a very wry distortion to a countenance naturally 
not very handsome. 

Moryama Yenoske was the ^principal interpreter who officiated on the 
occasion ; the same man who figured so conspicuously during the visit of 
Captain Grlynn in the Preble. As soon as the Commissioners had taken 
their seats, Yenoske took his position on his knees, at the feet of Hayashi, 
the chief, and humbly awaited his orders. The Japanese are never forgetful 
of the respect which they think due to rank, and graduate their obeisance 
according to its degrees. From the Emperor to the lowest subject in the 
realm there is a constant succession of prostrations. The former, in want 
of a human being superior to himself in rank, bows humbly to some Pagan 
idol, and every one of his subjects, from prince to peasant, has some per- 
son before whom he is bound to cringe and crouch in the dirt. One is re- 
minded, as he looks upon a universal nation on their knees, " in suppliance 
bent," of a favorite amusement of childhood, where a number of blocks are 
placed on end in a row, one shoves the other, and the first being knocked 
down, topples over the second, and so on in succession until all are tumbled 
upon the ground. The crouching position in which an inferior places him- 
self, when in the presence of his superior in rank, seems very easy to a 
Japanese, but would be very difficult and painful for one to assume who had 
not been accustomed to it. The ordinary mode pursued is to drop on the 
knees, cross the feet, and turn up the heels, with the toes, instep, and calves 
of the legs brought together into close contact. 

Sometimes it is mere squatting down with the soles firm upon the ground, 
the knees bent, and the body crouched low. Yenoske was quite an adept in 
these manoeuvres, as were his coadjutors, and especially the prefect, Kura- 



406 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

kawa-kahei, who was one of the subordinate functionaries present during 
the conference. They all showed a wonderful elasticity of muscle and 
suppleness of joint which could only have been acquired by long practice, 
and reminded one of those skilful contortionists or clowns, who exhibit their 
caoutchouc accomplishments to the wonderment of the spectators. These 
worthies, humble as they were in the august presence of the commissioners, 
had their worshippers in turn, who were more humble still, and who outdid 
them, even, in their bowings and prostrations. Every Japanese is thus by 
turns master and slave, now submissively with his neck beneath the foot of 
one, and again haughtily with his foot upon the neck of another. The 
commissioners, after a momentary silence, spoke a word to the prostrate 
Yenoske, who listened an instant, with downcast eyes, and then by a skilful 
manoeuvre, still upon his knees, moved towards the commissioners' inter- 
preter, and having communicated his message, which proved to be merely 
the ordinary compliments, with an inquiry after the health of the Commo- 
dore and his officers, returned with an appropriate answer to his former 
position. An interchange of various polite messages having been thus borne 
backward and forward for several minutes, through the medium of the 
humble but useful Yenoske, refreshments, consisting of the invariable pipe, 
tea in porcelain cups, served on lacquered trays, cakes, and some confec- 
tionary were handed round. 

It was now proposed by the commissioners that an adjournment should 
take place to another room, which they stated would accommodate comfort- 
ably about ten persons. Accordingly, the Commodore having assented, he, 
accompanied by the captain of the fleet, his two interpreters and secretary, 
was conducted into another and much smaller room, the entrance to which 
was only separated from the principal hall by a blue silk flag, ornamented 
in the centre with the embroidered arms of Japan. On entering, the com- 
missioners were found already seated on the right, they having withdrawn 
previously to the Commodore, and arranged themselves in rank upon one of 
the red divans, which extended along the sides of the apartment. 

The Commodore and his party took their seats on the left, and business 
commenced, the commissioners having preliminarily stated that it was a 
Japanese custom to speak slowly. They were evidently very anxious to 
proceed with deliberation, and weigh every word with the exactness of cau- 
tious diplomatists. 

The chief commissioner now handed the Commodore a roll of paper, which 
proved to be an answer to the President's letter, delivered on the previous 
visit at Gori-hama in July. 




.XA.AJOUliA 3l) IMEKPKETEK, YOKOHAMA. 



ANSWER TO president's LETTER. 407 

Translation of answer to the letter of the President to the Emperor of 

Japan. 
" The return of your excellency, as ambassador of the United States to this 
Empire, has been expected according to the letter of his Majesty the Presi- 
dent, which letter your excellency delivered last year to his Majesty the 
Emperor of this Empire. 

" It is quite impossible to give satisfactory answers at once to all the pro- 
posals of your government, as it is most positively forbidden by the laws of 
our Imperial ancestors ; but for us to continue attached to the ancient laws, 
seems to misunderstand the spirit of the age ; however, we are governed now 
by imperative necessity. 

" At the visit of your excellency last year to this Empire, his Majesty 
the former Emperor was sick, and is now dead. Subsequently, his Majesty 
the present Emperor ascended the throne ; the many occupations in conse- 
quence thereof are not yet finished, and there is no time to settle other busi- 
ness thoroughly. Moreover, his Majesty the new Emperor, at the accession 
to the throne, promised to the princes and high officers of the Empire to ob- 
serve the laws. It is therefore evident that he cannot now bring about any 
alteration in the ancient laws. 

" Last autumn, at the departure of the Dutch ship, the superintendent of 
the Dutch trade in Japan was requested to inform your government of this 
event, and a reply in writing has been received. 

" At Nagasaki arrived recently the Russian ambassador to communicate 
a wish of his government. He has since left the said place, because no an- 
swer would be given to any nation that might communicate similar wishes. 
However, we admit the urgency of, and shall entirely comply with, the pro- 
posals of your government concerning coal, wood, water, provisions, and the 
saving of ships and their crews in distress. After being informed which har- 
bor your excellency selects, that harbor shall be prepared, which preparation 
it is estimated will take about five years. Meanwhile a commencement can 
be made with the coal at Nagasaki by the next Japanese first month, 
(Siogoots,) (16th of February, 1855.) 

" Having no precedent with respect to coal, we request your excellency 
to furnish us with an estimate, and upon due consideration this will be com- 
plied with, if not in opposition to our laws. What do you understand by 
provisions, and how much coal ? 

" Finally, anything ships may be in want of that can be furnished from 
the production of this Empire shall be supplied. The prices of merchandise 
and articles of barter to be fixed by Kurakawa Kahei and Moryama Yenoske. 
After settling the points before mentioned, the treaty can be concluded and 
signed at the next interview. 

" Seals attached by order of the high gentlemen. 

" MORYAMA YENOSKE." 



408 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

The Commodore having returned the document, requesting it should be 
signed hy the high commissioner, and delivered to him next day, entered at 
once upon the subject which was uppermost in his mind, the negotiation of a 
treaty. He remarked that it would be better for the two nations that a 
treaty similar to the one between the United States and China should be 
made. He had been sent, he continued, by his government to make a treaty, 
and if he did not succeed, the United States would probably send more ships 
to make one ; but he hoped that everything would be soon settled in an ami- 
cable manner, and that he would be enabled to send two of his ships, as he de- 
sired, to prevent others from coming. A copy of the Chinese treaty, written 
in English, Chinese, and Dutch, accompanied by two notes from the Commo- 
dore, and a letter in answer to one sent by the high commissioner from 
Uraga, were now handed to the Japanese, when they asked for time to have 
the documents translated into their own language. 

Notes handed to First Commissioner on Wednesday^ March 8, 1854. 

The American ambassador learns with pleasure that the Japanese gov- 
ernment is disposed to enter into some friendly arrangement with the United 
States. As such is happily the case, it would be much more advantageous 
to both nations, and especially to Japan, if a treaty is agreed upon, even if it 
be of short duration; for reason that the citizens and subjects of both the 
contracting powers would be mutually bound by law to conform to all its 
stipulations, and thus prevent mistakes and consequent disputes. 

This is the practice with all other nations ; and such is the present condi- 
tion of the world, that these treaties have become necessary to avert conten- 
tion and war. The obligations to conform to them are enjoined as well by 
considerations of honor, as the preservation of the peace and prosperity of the 
respective countries / and it would be impossible for the western nations to 
preserve friendly intercourse if it were not for similar treaties. 

Although we have abundance of prepared provisions in the squadron, it 
would be desirable to obtain daily supplies of fresh meat, vegetables, &c., for 
which we would pay the prices demanded. Wood and water will, of course, 
be wanted, and for a supply of which we shall be thankful. 

The health of the officers and men requires that they should have exercise 
on shore ; and though I have hitherto, out of respect to the Japanese laws, 
forbidden any one to land except for purposes of duty, I feel assured that 
some arrangement will be made to admit of some reasonable intercourse with 
the neighborhood. 

Copies of the surveys which the officers are employed in making will be 
presented to the Imperial government ; and, to make them more perfect, it 
will be necessary to place signal-poles at some points on shore by which to 
measure the angles ; therefore it is requested that the officers landing for such, 
purposes may not be molested. 



commodore's letter to commissioner. 409 

It is thought that the business of the negotiation would be facilitated 
by submitting the several questions and replies that may arise in writing, 

M. C. PERRY. 

United States Flag-ship Powhatan, 
Tedo Bay, off the town of YoJcn-hama, March 1, 1854. 

Your Excellency : In presenting for the consideration of your high- 
ness the accompanying draught of a treaty, which, in all its essential features, 
is identical with that at present subsisting between the United States and 
China, I again venture to urge upon the Imperial government of Japan the 
importance of establishing a friendly understanding with the nation which I 
have the honor on this occasion to represent. 

It would be needless in me to reiterate the arguments already advanced 
in support of a measure so fraught with the best interests of the two nations, 
and so necessary to the peace and prosperity of Japan. 

I have in a former communication remarked that the President of the 
United States entertains the strongest desire, and cherishes a most fervent 
hope, that the mission which he has intrusted to my charge may result in 
the accomplishment of a treaty mutually beneficial, and tending to avert, by 
timely negotiation, the consequences that would otherwise grow out of 
collisions certain to arise, should the present undefined relations between the 
two countries much longer continue. 

In the increasing number of American ships almost daily passing and 
repassing the territories of Japan, the President is apprehensive of the oc- 
currence of some further act of hostility towards the unoffending citizens of 
the United States who may be thrown by misfortune upon your shores, and 
hence his wish to establish a treaty of friendship, which shall give assurance 
of the discontinuance of a course of policy, on the part of the Japanese, 
altogether at variance with the usages of other nations, and no longer to 
be tolerated by the United States. 

As an evidence of the friendly intentions of the President, and to pay 
the highest honor to his Imperial Majesty, he has sent me in command of a 
number of ships — to be increased by others which are to follow — not only to 
bear to his Majesty the letter which I have already presented, but to evince, 
by every suitable act of kindness, the cordial feelings entertained by him 
towards Japan. 

That there might be sufficient time allowed for a full consideration of the 
just and reasonable demands of the President, I took upon myself to with- 
draw the ships in July last from the coast ; and have now, after an absence 
of seven months, returned, in the full expectation of a most satisfactory 
arrangement. 

Another proof of the friendly disposition of the President has been given 
in his sending for exhibition to the Imperial court, three of the magnificent 



410 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

steamers of tlie United States, of wliicli there are many thousands, large and 
small, in America ; and he has also sent, for presentation to the Emperor, 
many specimens of the most useful inventions of our country. 

Therefore, after all these demonstrations of good will, it would be 
strange if the Japanese government did not seize upon this very favorable 
occasion to secure a friendly intercourse with a people anxious to pre- 
vent, by wise and prudent foresight, all causes of future misunderstanding and 
strife. 

It will be observed that there is no western nation so intimately connected 
with the peace and welfare of Japan as the United States, a part of whose 
territory lies opposite the Imperial coast, and whose commerce covers the 
Pacific ocean and Japan seas ; not less than five hundred large ships being 
engaged exclusively in those regions in pursuit of whales, the crews of many 
of which suffer for want of water and other refreshments ; and it would seem 
nothing more than common humanity to receive those who may seek shelter 
in the ports of Japan with kindness and hospitality. 

The government of China has derived much benefit from its treaty with 
the United States. The purchase of teas by the Americans during the pres- 
ent year will amount to three million six hundred thousand (3,600,000) taels, 
and of raw and manufactured silks to nearly three millions (3,000,000) of 
taels. 

Nearly thirty thousand subjects of the Emperor of China have visited 
America, where they have been kindly received, and permitted by the Amer- 
ican laws to engage in whatever occupation best suited them. They have 
also been allowed to erect temples, and to enjoy in all freedom their religious 
rites. All have accumulated money, and some have returned to China, after 
a short absence, with sums varying from 300 to 10,000 taels. 

I have adverted to these facts merely to show the advantages that would 
grow out of such a treaty as I now propose, and to remark again that some 
amicable arrangement between the two nations has become positively neces- 
sary, and for reasons already explained. 

Indeed, I shall not dare to return to the United States without carrying 
with me satisfactory responses to all the proposals of the President, and I 
must remain until such are placed in my possession. 

With the most profound respect, 

M. C. PEERY. 
Commander-in-chief United States Naval Forces East Lidia, 
China, and Japan Seas, and special Ambassador to Japan. 

His Highness Hayashi-Daigaku-no-kami, &c., &c. 

Oue of the marines belonging to the Mississippi had died two days pre- 
vious to the conference, and the suitable interment of his body now came 
up in course of discussion. The Commodore proposed to buy a piece 



AMERICANS ALLOWED BURIAL IN JAPAN. 411 

of ground from tlie Japanese for the burial of the man then lying dead, and 
for any other American who might die. This proposition seemed to perplex 
the commissioners, and, after some consultation, they retired to discuss the 
question alone, and, on leaving, invited the Commodore and his officers to 
partake of some refreshments, consisting of saki, fruit and cakes, soups and 
fish, which were immediately served. This invitation was accepted, with the 
remark that it would be more consonant with American notions of hospitality 
if the commissioners would join the Commodore and his officers, as the 
breaking of bread together was, in the United States, as among many other 
nations, considered an evidence of friendship. The Japanese replied that 
they were unacquainted with foreign customs, but would cheerfully join. 
They then all retired ; but, shortly after, the second and third in rank of the 
number returned and participated socially in the repast that had been served, 
one of the dignitaries filling a cup of saki at once, drinking it ofi" to the 
dregs, and, turning it bottom upward, remarked that it was a Japanese cus- 
tom for the host to drink first. 

It was not long before the whole board was again in session, and a writ- 
ten reply to the Commodore's request respecting the burial of the marine 
presented by the chief commissioner, and to the purport that, as a temple 
had been set apart at Nagasaki for the interment of strangers, it would be 
necessary to send the body to Uraga, whence at a convenient season, it 
might be conveyed in a Japanese junk to the former place. To this the 
Commodore objected that undisturbed resting-places were granted by all 
nations, and then proposed to send boats and inter the body at Webster island. 
Webster island, as it is named on the American charts, is a small island 
lying convenient to the " American anchorage;" and the Commodore had 
determined, if the Japanese had persisted in forbidding the interment within 
any of their numerous burial places, to have efi"ected it at all hazards upon 
that island, being perfectly satisfied that the Japanese respect for the dead 
would leave the body undisturbed. The commissioners evinced strong ob- 
jections to the choice of the spot, and, after considerable discussion among 
themselves, finally consented to allow the burial to take place at Yoku-hama, 
at a place adjoining one of their temples, and in view of the .squadron. They 
observed, however, that, as the novelty of the scene might attract an incon- 
venient crowd, the authorities would send on board the Mississippi, in the 
morning, an officer to accompany the funeral party. 

The Commodore now prepared to depart, having first stated that he 
would be happy to see the Japanese dignitaries on board his vessel as soon 
as the weather should become warmer. They expressed courteously the 
pleasure they would have in accepting the invitation, and, bowing, retired. 
The subordinate American officers had been entertained with refreshments 
in the large outer hall during the conference, and amused with the rude 
efi'orts of the Japanese at delineating their portraits. The Commodore 



412 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

now passed out, followed by his suite and the procession of oiSicers as 
before, and marching down, to the music of the bands, between the files of 
marines on either side, embarked in his barge and pulled for the ship. 
The other boats soon followed, filled with the numerous officers, sailors, 
marines, and others, who had shared in the ceremonies of the day. 

Early next day, (Thursday, March 9,) as had been arranged, a Japanese 
official went on board the Mississippi, to accompany the funeral party on 
shore, for the purpose of pointing out the burial place selected for the inter- 
ment of the dead marine. At five o'clock in the afternoon the boats left 
the ship with the body, attended by the chaplain, Mr. Jones, Mr. Williams, 
the interpreter, and a party of marines. The flags of every vessel in the 
squadron were hoisted at half mast as the boats pushed ofi". The body was 
borne to a very picturesque spot at the foot of a hill, at a short distance 
from the village of Yoku-hama. The chaplain, Mr. Jones, was robed in 
his clerical gown, and on landing was received in the most courteous manner 
by some of the Japanese authorities, who showed none of their supposed 
repugnance to the Christian religion and its ministers. Crowds of the peo- 
ple had also gathered, and looked on with great curiosity, but with decorous 
respect, as the funeral procession moved slowly along to the sound of the 
mufiled drum. The road lay through the village, and its inhabitants came 
out from their houses and open shops to behold the novel scene. The place 
chosen for the burial was near a Japanese place of interment, with stone 
idols and sculptured headstones, and as the procession came up a Buddhist 
priest, in robes of richly embroidered silk, was observed already on the ground. 
Mr. Jones read the service of the Protestant Episcopal church, and while he 
was officiating the Buddhist priest sat near by on a mat, with an altar before 
him, on which was a collection of scraps of paper, some rice, a gong, a vessel 
containing saki, and some burning incense. The service having been read, 
the body lowered, and the earth thrown in, the party retired from the grave. 
The Buddhist priest then commenced the peculiar ceremonies of his religion, 
beating his gong, telling his rosary of glass and wooden beads, muttering his 
prayers, and keeping alive the burning incense. He was still going through 
his strange formulary when the Americans moved away, and crowds of 
Japanese continued to linger in the neighborhood, about the crests and ac- 
clivities of the hills which bounded the scene. Mr. Williams, the interpre- 
ter, who had lived long in China, and was familiar with the Buddhist wor- 
ship, recognized its peculiarities in the precisely similar ceremonies perform- 
ing at the grave by the Japanese priest. A neat enclosure of bamboo was 
subsequently put up about the American grave by the authorities, and a 
small hut was erected near, for a Japanese guard to watch the grave for a 
time, according to their custom. 

On the same day the prefect, Kura-Kawa-Kahei, and the chief interpre- 
ter, Yenoske, came on board the Powhatan with a copy of the Imperial 



CONFERENCE WITH INTERPRETERS. 413 

reply to the President's letter, duly certified and signed by the four commis- 
sioners. The two Japanese officials subsequently repaired to the Mississippi, 
where they conferred for some time with Captain Adams. They appointed 
the Monday following (March 13th) for the reception of the presents, and 
it was arranged that those persons who had the supervision of the telegraph, 
the Daguerreotype apparatus, and steam engine, should land on the previous 
Saturday, to arrange a place for their suitable exhibition. The Japanese 
stated that two of the commissioners would be in attendance, with a scribe, 
to receive and record the various presents, and the names of the persons for 
whom they were intended. Upon Captain Adams saying that all the pres- 
ents received by the officers of the United States were, by law, the property 
of the government, Yenoske remarked that a similar law existed in Japan. 
To the inquiry of the Japanese as to when the Commodore's reply to the 
answer to the President's letter would be ready, it was promised for the 
subsequent Saturday. 

Captain Adams now asked what ports the commissioners had selected for 
the trade of the Americans, and where they were, and remarked that five 
years, the time appointed for the opening of them, was deemed by the Commo- 
dore much too long, and that he would never submit to having a place so 
restricted as Dezima for the use of the Americans. The prefect waived all 
immediate consideration of the subject, saying that it was one upon which 
the commissioners would negotiate and deliberate, and that it would neces- 
sarily require time. Yenoske, the interpreter, was then told that he could 
forward the purposes of the expedition, since he was familiar with them ; he 
promised to do so to the utmost of his power, but he declined, although a 
map was placed before him, to name the ports for American intercourse 
saying, as he refused, that the whole matter was so new, and so opposed to 
the laws of the Empire, that time would be required to bring matters to such 
an issue. In regard to the question of going ashore, which had been sub- 
mitted to the commissioners. Captain Adams asked for some explicit reply, 
stating that the surveying party, which was at the tim.e at work in the bay, 
would require to plant signals along the shore, but would not go into the 
interior. To this the prefect answered that the views of the commissioners 
had not been yet fully matured, but seemed to concur in the necessity of the 
signals, if the Commodore had so ordered it. He, however, expressed his 
fear of trouble and confusion, if the officers, engaged in their duty, should 
enter the villages, and hoped they would go down the bay, and not north- 
ward. The subject of supplies was next spoken of, and the question of pay- 
ment seemed to be conceded by the Japanese, who proposed that as soon as 
a port was selected, certain compradors should be appointed for the sale of 
articles of every kind, but in the meantime, they said a single person would 
be chosen, whose duty it would be to supply what was necessary, and receive 
in payment the American coin, to be estimated weight for weight with the 



414 



EXPEDITION TO JAPAN 



Japanese money. They would prefer, they said, that Nagasaki should be the 
place for such transactions, but granted the necessity of carrying them on 
for the present where they were. The hours for the future meetings being 
settled at from eleven o'clock to one, instead of the previous irregular mode, 
the Japanese took their departure. 

Oil the next day (March 11) a short conference was held by Captain 
Adams with the same Japanese officials in the treaty house on shore. He 
also bore a communication of the date of the 10th of March from the Com- 
modore, addressed to the commissioners, in which the answer to the Presi- 
dent's letter was acknowledged. The Commodore, while he expressed his 
satisfaction at the determination of the Japanese government to alter its 
policy in regard to foreign governments, at the same time stated that the 
concessions proposed were not enough, and that a written compact or treaty, 
with wider provisions, was essential. The chief points talked of were, the 
answer to the Commodore's notes in reference to the proposed treaty, and 
the privilege of going ashore. In regard to the former, they stated that a 
reply was not yet prepared ; but as for the latter, the interpreter remarked, 
unofficially, that there would be no objection to the Commodore and his 
officers going ashore ; but that if the permission should be general, difficulty 
with the people might ensue. Some general conversation followed in regard to 
the necessity of dispatch in the negotiations. Captain Adams stating that it 
was the Commodore's intention to send one of his ships to the United States, 
in the course of a week or so, to inform the government at home of the pro- 
gress of the negotiations, that it might know whether it was necessary to 
send more vessels or not. The Japanese evinced some uneasiness at this 
statement, and asked, " Whether the Americans are friendly ? " " Certainly 
we are," was the answer, and the conference closed in the most amicable 
manner. 

The day agreed upon had arrived (Monday, March 13) for the landing of 
the presents, and although the weather was unsettled, and the waters of the 
bay somewhat rough, they all reached the shore without damage.* 



The following is a list of some of the various presents landed on the occasion : 



y Emperor, 



1 box of arms, containing- 

5 Hall's rifles, J 
3 Maynard's muskets, 

12 cavalry swords, 

6 artillery swords, 

1 carbine, 

20 army pistols, J 

2 carbines, cartridge boxes, and belts, 

containing 120 cartridges. 

10 Hall's rifles. 

11 cavalry swords. 

1 carbine, cartridge box and belts, and 
60 cartridges. 



Boxes of tea, Emperor. 

1 box of tea, commissioners. 

2 telegraph instruments. 

3 Francis's life-boats. 

1 locomotive and tender, passenger-car, and 
rails complete. 

4 volumes Audubon's Birds of America. 
3 volumes Audubon's Quadrupeds. 
Several clocks. 

10 ship's beakers, containing 100 gallons 

whiskey. 
8 baskets Irish potatoes. 
3 stoves. 



DELIVERY OF PRESENTS. 



415 



The presents filled several large boats, which left the ship escorted by a 
number of officers, and a company of marines, and a band of music, all under 
the superintendence of Captain Abbott, who was delegated to deliver the 
presents, with proper ceremonies, to the Japanese high commissioners. A 
building adjoining the treaty house had been suitably constructed and ar- 
ranged for the purpose, and on landing Captain Abbott was met by Yezaiman, 
the governor of Uraga, and several subordinate officials, and conducted to 
the treaty house. Soon after entering, the high commissioner. Prince Ha- 
yashi, came in, and the usual compliments having been interchanged. Captain 
Abbott, with the interpreters, were led into the smaller room, where a letter 
from the Commodore and some formalities on the delivery of the presents 
were disposed of. The Japanese commissioner, after some discussion, fixed 
the ensuing Thursday (March 16) for an interview with the Commodore on 
shore, when they promised to deliver a formal reply to his notes in regard to 
the opening of the various Japanese ports insisted upon. 

The presents having been formally delivered, the various American offi- 
cers and workmen selected for the purpose were diligently engaged daily in 
unpacking and arranging them for exhibition. The Japanese authorities offered 
every facility ; their laborers constructed sheds for sheltering the various 
articles from the inclemency of the weather ; a piece of level ground was as- 
signed for laying down the circular track of the little locomotive, and posts 
were Drought and erected for the extension of the telegraph wires, the Japan- 
ese taking a very ready part in all the labors, and watching the result of ar- 
ranging and putting together of the machinery with an innocent and childlike 
delight. The telegraphic apparatus, under the direction of Messrs. Draper 
and Williams, was soon in working order, the wires extending nearly a mile, 
in a direct line, one end being at the treaty house, and another at a building; 



60 hall cartridges. 

1 box books, Emperor. 

1 box dressing-cases, Emperor. 

1 box perfumery, 2 packages, Emperor. 

1 barrel whiskey, Emperor. 

1 cask wine, Emperor. 

1 box for distribution. 

1 box containing 11 pistols for distribution. 

1 box perfumery, for distribution. 

A quantity of cherry cordials, distribution. 

A quantity of cherry cordials. Emperor. 

A number of baskets champagne, Em- 
peror. 

A number of baskets champagne, commis- 
sioners. 

1 box China ware, commissioners. 

A quantity of maraschino, commissioners. 

1 telescope, Emperor. 



Boxes standard United States balances. 

Boxes standard United States bushels. 

Boxes standard United States gallon mea- 
sures. 

Boxes standard United States yards. 

1 box coast charts. 

4 bundles telegraph wires. 

1 box gutta percha wires. 

4 boxes batteries. 

1 box machine paper. 

1 box zinc plates. 

1 box insulators. 

1 box connecting apparatus. 

1 box machine weights. 

1 box acid. 

1 box seed. 

Large quantity of agricultural implements, 
&c., &c., &c. 



416 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

expressly allotted for the purpose. "When communication was opened up be* 
tween the operators at either extremity, the Japanese watched with intense 
curiosity the modus operandi^ and were greatly amazed to find that in an 
instant of time messages were conveyed in the English, Dutch, and Japanese 
languages from building to building. Day after day the dignitaries and 
many of the people would gather, and, eagerly beseeching the operators to 
work the telegraph, would watch with unabated interest the sending and re- 
ceiving of messages. 

Nor did the railway, under the direction of Engineers Gay and Danby, 
with its Lilliputian locomotive, car, and tender, excite less interest. All the 
parts of the mechanism were perfect, and the car was a most tasteful speci- 
men of workmanship, but so small that it could hardly carry a child of six 
years of age. The Japanese, however, were not to be cheated out of a ride, 
and, as they were unable to reduce themselves to the capacity of the inside 
of the carriage, they betook themselves to the roof. It was a spectacle not 
a little ludicrous to behold a dignified mandarin whirling around the circu- 
lar road at the rate of twenty miles an hour, with his loose robes flying in 
the wind. As he clung with a desperate hold to the edge of the roof, grin- 
ning with intense interest, and his huddled up body shook convulsively with 
a kind of laughing timidity, while the car spun rapidly around the circle, you 
might have supposed that the movement, somehow or other, was dependent 
rather upon the enormous exertions of the uneasy mandarin than upon the 
power of the little puffing locomotive which was so easily performing its 
work. 

Although the Japanese authorities were still very jealous of any inter- 
course on the part of the Americans with the people, and did all they could 
to prevent it, still there was necessarily a good deal of intermingling. The 
ships of the squadron were being daily supplied with water and provisions, 
for which the officials of the government had now consented to receive pay- 
ment, but they insisted upon conducting all the regulations, and provided 
their own boats and laborers for the purpose. There was, however, what 
with the necessary passing to and from the ships with the supplies, and the 
arranging and working the telegraphic apparatus, and the toy railway, almost 
daily intercourse between the American officers, sailors, and marines, and the 
Japanese mandarins, officials and laborers. 

The Japanese always evinced an inordinate curiosity, for the gratification 
of which the various articles of strange fabric, and the pieces of mechanism, 
of ingenious and novel invention, brought from the United States, gave them 
a full opportunity. They were not satisfied with the minutest examination 
of all things, so surprisingly wonderful as they appeared to them, but fol- 
lowed the officers and men about and seized upon every occasion to examine 
each part of their dress. The laced caps, boots, swords, and tailed coats of 
the officers ; the tarpaulins, jackets, and trowsers of the men, all came in for 



CURIOSITY OF THE JAPANESE. 417 

the closest scrutiny ; and a tailor in search of a new cut or a latest fashion, 
could not hare been more exacting in his observations than the inquisitive 
Japanese, as he fingered the broadcloth, smoothed down the nap with his 
long delicate hands, pulled a lappel here, adjusted a collar there, now fathomed 
the depth of a pocket, and again peered curiously into the inner recesses of 
Jack's loose toilette. They eagerly sought to possess themselves of anything 
that pertained to the dress of their visitors, and showed a peculiar passion r^ 
for buttons. They would again and again ask for a button, and when pre- 
sented with the cheap gift, they appeared immediately gratified, and stowed 
it away as if it were of the greatest value. It is possible that their afi'ection 
for buttons and high appreciation of their value, may be owing to the rarity 
of the article in Japan, for it is a curious fact, that the simple convenience 
of a button is but little used in any article of Japanese dress ; strings and 
various bindings being the only mode of fastening the garments. When 
visiting the ships, the mandarins and their attendants were never at rest; but 
went about peering into every nook and corner, peeping into the muzzles of 
the guns, examining curiously the small-arms, handling the ropes, measuring 
the boats, looking eagerly into the engine-room, and watching every move- 
ment of the engineers and workmen as they busily moved, in and about, the gi- 
gantic machinery of the steamers. They were not contented with merely ob- 
serving with their eyes, but were constantly taking out their writing materials, . 
their mulberry-bark paper, and their India ink and hair pencils, which they r^ 
always carried in a pocket within the left breast of their loose robes, and • 
making notes and sketches. The Japanese had all apparently a strong picto- 
rial taste, and looked with great delight upon the engravings and pictures 
which were shown them, but their own performances appeared exceedingly 
rude and inartistic. Every man, however, seemed anxious to try his skill 
at drawing, and they were constantly taking the portraits of the Americans, 
and sketches of the various articles that appeared curious to them, with a 
result, which, however satisfactory it might have been to the artists, (and it 
must be conceded they exhibited no little exultation,) was far from showing 
any encouraging advance in art. It should, however, be remarked, that 
the artists were not professional. Our future pages will show more artistic 
skill, than the rude specimens here alluded to would have led one to suppose 
existed in Japan. The Japanese are, undoubtedly, like the Chinese, a very V 
imitative, adaptative, and compliant people ; and in these characteristics may 
be discovered a promise of the comparatively easy introduction of foreign 
customs and habits, if not of the nobler principles and better life of a higher 
civilization. 

Notwithstanding the Japanese are so fond of indulging their curiosity, 

they are by no means communicative about themselves. They allege, as a 

reason for their provoking reserve, that their laws forbid them to communicate 

to foreigners anytliing relating to their country and its institutions, habits, 

27' 



I 



418 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

and customs. This silence on the part of the Japanese was a serious obstacle 
to acquiring that minute information about a strange people of whom curios- 
ity is naturally on the alert to know everything. Much progress will, how- 
ever, never be obtained toward a thorough knowledge of Japan, until some 
of our men of intelligence are established in the country in the character of 
consular agents, merchants, or missionaries, who may thus be enabled to 
acquire the language, and mingle in intimate social relations with the 
people. 

The common people were found much more disposed to fraternize than 
were the Japanese ojQ&cials. It seemed evident that nothing but a fear of 
punishment deterred the former from entering into free intercourse with the 
Americans ; but they were closely watched by their superiors, as in fact the 
latter were by their equals. 

In Japan, as in Lew Chew, probably, a closer intimacy would have 
ensued, during the visits of the squadron, with all classes, if they had been 
allowed to follow their own natural inclinations, and had not been so jealously 
guarded by the numerous spies. No one, even of the highest dignitaries, 
is intrusted with public business of importance, without having one or more 
associated with him, who is ever on the alert to detect and take note of the 
slightest suspicion of delinquency. 

Kura-Kawa-Kahei, the prefect, and Yenoske, the interpreter, paid almost 
daily visits to the ships, and had always something to communicate in 
regard to supplying the vessels with water and fresh provisions, the 
arrangements for which were under their especial care. When they came 
on board, as they were subordinate dignitaries, they were not received 
by the Commodore himself, but by some of his chief officers, who were 
delegated for the purpose, and acted as his medium of communication with 
them. After one of these interviews, (March 14,) as Kura-Kawa and 
Yenoske were about taking leave, a Japanese official hurried aboard from 
Kanagawa, and, in a state of considerable excitement, reported that an 
American officer had passed through that town, and was walking very fast 
toward Yedo. His appearance, so said the messenger, was causing great 
excitement, and it was feared that unpleasant consequences might ensue. 
The Japanese officials, on hearing this, declared that the conduct of the 
Amercian officer was in violation of their laws and of the promises made to 
them by the Admiral. The Commodore, when informed of the fact, directed 
guns to be fired immediately, and a signal made recalling all boats and 
officers to their respective ships. He also prepared written orders, which 
were sent in different directions, commanding all persons belonging to the 
squadron to repair immediately on board. A copy of these orders was, on 
the instant, dispatched by the Japanese officials, then in the Powhatan, in 
pursuit of the American officer, reported to be on his way to Yedo. The 



CHAPLAIN BITTINGER'S EXCURSION. 419 

Commodore's prompt action was handsomely acknowledged by the authori- 
ties, who sent to him, next day, a formal expression of their gratitude. 

The American officer, whose intrusion had created so great an excite- 
ment, was Mr. Bittinger, the chaplain of the steamer Susquehanna. While 
taking a walk on shore, this gentleman's curiosity prompted him to extend 
his observations somewhat beyond the usual circuit of some four or five 
miles, within which the Japanese authorities had contracted the movements 
of their visitors. Starting from Yoktiyhama, opposite to where the squadron 
was anchored, the enterprising investigator pushed on to the town of Kana- 
gawa, some three miles further up the bay, where he was accosted by some 
of the Japanese officials and the interpreter, Gohatsiro, who urgently soli- 
cited him to return. He was not, however, to be so easily balked of his 
purpose, and continued his journey, followed by the Japanese officers, who 
dogged his steps at every turn until he reached Kamasaki. Here there was 
a river to cross, and he tried to prevail upon the Japanese boatmen to ferry 
him to the opposite side, but they refused in spite of bribes and threats, in 
the course of which the chaplain, if the Japanese accounts are to be be- 
lieved, drew his sword. He now pursued his way higher up the river with 
the hope of finding a place that might be forded, and had just reached a. 
very promising looking crossing, the depths of which he was about trying, 
when the messenger, who had hurried in rapid dispatch, from the steamer 
Powhatan, accosted him with the written order of the Commodore. " He," 
thus reported the Japanese authorities, with their usual minuteness of de- 
scription, " read it, walked four steps further, read it again, then suddenly 
returned, and intimated his intention of going back to the ship." The chap- 
lain, in the course of his wandermgs, had an opportunity of seeing one of 
the largest towns of Japan, that of Kanagawa, which, with its numerous 
wide streets, and its crowded population, had quite an imposing appearance. 
He penetrated into several of the dwellings and temples, and, by his per- 
tinacious perseverance, succeeded in obtaining, in one of the shops, some 
Japanese money in exchange for American coin. The native authorities 
seemed particularly worried in regard to this last matter, as it was so great 
an ofi"ence against their laws. The Japanese, in their report of the occur- 
rence, stated that the American officer had gone into a shop by the road- 
side and asked the keeper to allow him to see some coins. The Japanese 
shopman complied with the request, but as he seemed somewhat chary in the 
display of his treasure, the chaplain insisted upon seeing more, which de- 
mand was also granted. Scales were now asked for, which being brought, 
the chaplain took out some silver pieces, and weighing them in one balance 
against the Japanese gold and silver coins, mixed indiscriminately in a heap, 
in the other, transferred the latter to his pockets, and left his American 
coin to console the shopman for the loss of his Japanese change. The 
authorities further reported that the chaplain was not content with gentle 



420 ' EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

exhortations and mild persuasions, but had used threatening gestures, in 
which his drawn sword had figured conspicuously. They, however, mildly 
and courteously added in their report, " that they supposed that it was with 
no intention to do harm, but for his own amusement." There was a gen- 
tle and graceful charity in the suggestion of an apology for the conduct of 
the American officer, which showed an example in beautiful accordance 
with the precepts of the faith of the intruder, and well worthy of imitation. 
On the next day Yenoske brought back the sum of three dollars and a half 
in American silver coin, which had been left in compulsory exchange with 
the Japanese shopman, and stated that six pieces of gold, six of silver, and 
the same number of copper, were in possession of the chaplain. Yenoske 
requested that the Japanese money should be returned, and its restora- 
tion was promised. 

The day appointed for the conference, on shore, with the Commodore 
(March 16), proved very stormy, and, accordingly, the interview was post- 
poned until the next morning. In the mean time, a communication had been 
received from the commissioners, in answer to several notes of the Com- 
modore, in regard to a proposed treaty with Japan, on the basis of that be- 
tween the United States and China : 

Note from the Japanese Commissioners to Commodore Perry. 

At our personal interview, on the 8th, you presented us a paper in which 
the President's views were expressed ; and, on the 11th, we received a reply 
to our letter, in which the same views were given as at the interview in rela- 
tion to the commerce your country now has with China ; both of which we 
have carefully examined, and learn that you wish to ascertain w^hether we 
are ready to adopt the same that the Chinese have. The burden of that 
which you presented on the 8th is similar to that which was sought in the 
President's letter, and you gave it, to learn whether we would adopt it or 
not. In our letter, it was plainly stated that our Emperor had but lately 
acceded to his throne, and all the numerous affairs of government required 
to be quietly settled, and that he had no leisure for extraneous negotiations. 
Consequently, he last autumn sent, through the superintendent of the Dutch 
shipping, to make this known to you, for you to communicate it to the Uni- 
ted States. 

Among those points which you now propose for adoption, the two items 
of extending succor and protection to the distressed and wrecked vessels on 
our coast, and of furnishing coal to passing ships and supplying provisions and 
other necessaries to those who may be in need of them, are founded in rea- 
son, and ought to be granted without hesitation. But as to opening a trade, 
such as is now carried on with China by your country, we certainly cannot 
yet bring it about. The feelings and manners of our people are very unlike 



JAPANESE DECLINE THE CHINESE TREATY. 421 

those of outer nations ; and it will be exceedingly difficult, even if you wish 
it, to immediately change the old regulations for those of other countries. 
Moreover, the Chinese have long had intercourse with western nations, while 
we have had dealings at Nagasaki with only the people of Holland and Chi- 
na. Beside them, it mattered not for us to trade with those of any other 
land ; and this has made our exchange of commodities very small. 

The ships of your country must, therefore, begin your trade at Nagasaki 
during the first moon of our next year, where they can procure fuel, water, 
coal, and other things ; but as our ideas of things, and what we each like, 
are still very dissimilar, as are also our notions of the prices or worth of 
things, this makes it indispensable that we both first make a mutual trial 
and examination, and then, after five years, we can open another port for 
trade, which will be convenient for your ships when passing. 

The points of the treaty you have now presented for our deliberation, 
and this now given to you, can be retained by each as evidence of our sepa- 
rate views. 

Kayei, 1th year, 2d moon, 11th day. [March 15, 1854.) 

HAYASHI. 
IDO. 
IZAWA. 
UDONO. 

The next day, (March 17th,) the Commodore, accompanied hy his inter- 
preters, secretary, and two or three of his officers, met the commissioners 
at the treaty house, and after some preliminary compliments in regard to 
the presents, he was conducted as before from the hall of reception to the 
inner room of conference. The Commodore, on the present occasion, had 
dispensed with the military display, and much of the ceremony of the for- 
mer visit, (which, as we have intimated in a previous chapter, was merely 
for effect,) as had the Japanese commissioners, although the negotiations 
were carried on with the usual formalities. 

Hayashi, the chief dignitary, opened the day's business by asking whether 
the Commodore was satisfied with the Japanese propositions for a treaty, 
which had been sent on the previous day, alluding to those embodied in the 
note printed above. The Commodore having replied that their communica- 
tion was not accompanied with a Dutch translation, the Japanese presented 
one immediately, and the discussion began. The various propositions of the 
Japanese, and the answers have been thus formularised : 



422 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 



PROPOSITIONS OF JAPANESE COMMISSIONERS, WITH REPLIES OF COIMMODORE 

PERRY. 

First Japanese proposition. 

From the next first month, wood, water, provisions, coal, and other 
things, the productions of this country, that American ships may need, can 
be had at Nagasaki ; and after five years from this, a port in another prin- 
cipality shall be opened for ships to go to. 

Note. — Those articles to be charged at the same prices that are charged 
to the, Dutch and Chinese, and to be paid for in gold and silver coin. 

Commodore Perry''s reply. 

Agreed to ; but one or more ports must be substituted for Nagasaki, 
as that is out of the route of American commerce ; and the time for the 
opening of the ports to be agreed upon must be immediate, or within a 
space of sixty days. The manner of paying for articles received shall be 
arranged by treaty. 

Second Japanese proposition. 

Upon whatever part of the coast people may be shipwrecked, those peo- 
ple and their property shall be sent to Nagasaki by sea. 

Note. — When, after five years shall have expired, and another harbor 
shall be opened, those shipwrecked men will be sent either there or to 
Nagasaki, as may be most convenient. 

Commodore Perry^s reply. 

Agreed to, excepting as to the port to which the shipwrecked men are 
to be carried. 

Third Japanese proposition. 

It being impossible for us to ascertain who are pirates and who are not, 
such men shall not be allowed to walk about wherever they please. 

Commodore Perryh reply. 

Shipwrecked men and others who may resort to the ports of Japan are 
not to be confined, and shall enjoy all the freedom granted to Japanese, and 
be subject to no further restraints. They shall, however, be held amena- 
ble to just laws, or such as may be agreed upon by treaty. 

It is altogether inconsistent with justice, that persons thrown by the 
providence of God upon the shores of a friendly nation should be looked 
upon and treated as pirates, before any proof shall be given of their being 



CONFEKENCE WITH THE COMMISSIONERS. 423 

SO ; and the continiiance of the treatment which has hitherto been visited 
upon strangers will no longer be tolerated by the government of the United 
States, so far as Americans are concerned. 

Fourth Japanese proposition. 

At Nagasaki they shall have no intercourse with the Dutch and 
Chinese. 

Commodore Perry''s reply. 

The Americans will never submit to the restrictions which have been 
imposed upon the Dutch and Chinese, and any further allusion to such 
restraints will be considered offensive. 

Fifth Japanese proposition. 

After the other port is opened, if there be any other sort of articles 
wanted, or business which requires to be arranged, there shall be careful 
deliberation between the parties in order to settle them. 

Commodore Perry'' s reply. 
Agreed to, so far as it applies to ports other than Nagasaki. 

Sixth Japanese proposition. 

Lew Chew is a very distant country, and the opening of its harbor can- 
not be discussed by us. 

Commodore Perry'' s reply. 

As there can be no good reason why the Americans should not commu- 
nicate freely with Lew Chew, this point is insisted on. 

Seventh Japanese proposition. 

Matsmai is also a very distant country, and belongs to its prince ; this 
cannot be settled now, but a definite answer on this subject shall be given 
when the ships are expected next spring. 

Commodore Perry'' s reply. 

The same with respect to the port of Matsmai, for our whaling-ships, 
steamers, and other vessels. 

These propositions and replies were consecutively discussed, the com- 
missioners interposing with great pertinacity all possible difficulties, and 
contending that the laws of the Empire were of such a character as 
positively forbade the concessions demanded. They insisted that Nao-a- 
saki was the place set apart for strangers ; they stated that the inhabitants 



424 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

and authorities of that city had been trained to enforce the laws with 
respect to foreigners, and declared that if the Americans were to have 
another port assigned to them, five years would be required to make similar 
preparations. The Commodore replied that the fact of Nagasaki having 
been especially appropriated to foreigners was one of the grounds of his 
objections to it ; that its inhabitants and authorities, having been so long 
accustomed to the servility of the Dutch, would doubtless exact more from 
the Americans than they would be inclined to submit to, and serious conse- 
quences might follow. Moreover, the Commodore declared that he desired 
it to be well understood, that his countrymen visiting Japan must be free 
from all those oppressive laws which have been hitherto imposed upon 
strangers. In a word, he declared emphatically that he would not think 
of accepting Nagasaki as one of the ports. 

The Commodore then informed the commissioners that he should expect, 
in the course of time, five ports to be opened to the American flag. He 
would, however, he said, be content for the present with three : one on the 
island of Nippon, say either Uraga or Kagosima ; another in Yesso, suggest- 
ing Matsmai, and a third in Lew Chew, that of Napha. In regard to the 
remaining two he was willing to defer all discussion to some future time. 

After many evasions, and their usual protestations of legal difficulties, 
they at last answered that, as the Commodore positively refused to accept 
Nagasaki, and as they themselves objected to Uraga, that Simoda according- 
ly was formally proposed. In regard to Lew Chew, the commissioners 
declared that, as it was a distant dependency, over which the Emperor of 
Japan had but limited control, they could entertain no proposition. And 
as for Matsmai, that also stood in similar relations to the Japanese govern- 
ment. 

Notwithstanding all these objections, the Commodore still persisted in 
his demands, as he had always to be on his guard against the deceitful 
diplomacy of the people with whom he was negotiating. Finding that the 
Commodore was resolute, and that all their cunning devices to bend him 
from his purpose were of no avail, the commissioners proposed to consider 
the matter, and retired to another apartment for private consultation. 
After an absence of an hour they returned, and reported as the result 
of their deliberations, that a longer time would be required before their 
decision could be given in regard to the opening of Matsmai. They re- 
marked, in addition, that it was not in the power of the Emperor to grant 
the use of this port without consulting the prince under whose hereditary 
right it was governed, and that to do this would require a year, at the expi- 
ration of which time they would be prepared to give a reply. The Commo- 
dore then told them that he could not leave Japan without an answer of 
eome kind, and that if the prince to whom they referred was an independent 
sovereign, he would go himself to Matsmai and negotiate with him. 



VISIT OF YENOSKE. 425 

This point was finally settled for the time, "by the Japanese saying that 
they would give a definite answer on Thursday, the twenty-third of March. 
In regard to Simoda, it was agreed that the Commodore should dispatch 
one or more vessels to that port, and the commissioners a Japanese officer 
of rank to meet them, in order that the harbor might be examined, and its 
fitness for the required purposes determined, it having been clearly under- 
stood that if it did not answer the expectations of the Americans in all 
respects, another place, somewhere in the southern part of Nippon, would 
be insisted on. The Vandalia and Southampton were accordingly dis- 
patched, on the twentieth of March, to examine the harbor of Simoda. 

The day after the conference on shore, Moryama Yenoske, the chief 
interpreter, accompanied by two Japanese officials, came on board the 
Powhatan and submitted a paper, in the Dutch language, containing a 
report by the Japanese themselves of the propositions made by the Com- 
modore, and it proved that the commissioners were perfectly cognizant of his 
views.* On the occasion of this visit Yenoske asked for the Japanese coins 

* This Japanese report is curious as an evidence of the precision with which the com- 
missioners conducted the negotiations, and of the exactitude with which their reporter, who 
was constantly present, noted the proceedings of the conference : 

Japanese statemefnt of points agreed upon in the interview of Commodore Perry with the Japanese 
commissioners^ March 17, 1854. 

1st. The citizens of the United States will not suhmit to degradations lil^e those imposed 
upon the Dutch and Chinese, in their confinement at Nagasaki ; that place is not convenient 
for ships to resort to, and does not answer the pui-pose. 

2d. Lew Chew is a very distant country, and a definite answer cannot he given. 

3d. Matsmai is a very distant place, and helongs to a prince. This point cannot be 
settled now; some time will he required for negotiation, until the first month of our next 
year ; because the concurrence of the central government and of the prince of that country- 
are both necessary to effect a result ; a negotiation of the admiral with that prince, there- 
fore, would be to no purpose. 

It was stated that an answer had better be given at once. There was time enough to 
have that harbor opened by the above mentioned time ; that it was not probable that in 
the first year that harbor avouH be resorted to by many ships, because some time would 
be required to communicate this decision to the government, and to have it genei-ally 
known. 

In consideration thereof, it was agreed that a final answer should be given on the 23d 
of March, (the 26th of tl'3 Japanese month.) 

It being mentioned tnat, besides Lew Chew and Matsmai, more harbors in Nippon 
would be required, it was suggested that the harbor of Simoda could be opened for the 
ships of the United States, and agreed that two ships of the squadron would sail on the 
19th of March to make a survey of that harbor ; and, further, that some Japanese officers, 
to go by land, would arrive at that place on the 22d instant, and that the captains of those 
ihips would await the arrival of those officers before proceeding to survey, pennit any one 
to land, &c. 

That shipwrecked men should meet with kind treatment, and be as free as in other 
countries. 

Agreement made upon due consideration. 



426 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

which had been obtained by the chaplain of the Susquehanna in the course 
of his wanderings on shore, and they were delivered to him. On the inter- 
preter and his companions taking leave, presents were given to them, as 
they had been also to the commissioners after the last interview at the 
treaty house. These gifts consisted of Colt's pistols, and various articles 
of American manufacture of no great value. 

On one of these visits, which were regularly kept up almost without the 
intermission of a single day, the Japanese officials were asked what had been 
the result of the expedition of the Russians to Nagasaki ? They replied 
that no treaty of any kind whatever had been made with them ; but they 
had been told that the Emperor had so many affairs to dispose of that their 
propositions could not be entertained at that time ; although, perhaps, in 
the course of a few years, circumstances might be more favorable for nego- 
tiation. This they declared was the constant answer to their repeated 
demands. The Russians had been, however, supplied with wood, water, 
and provisions. One of the chief objects of their visit, said the Japanese, 
was to define with precision the frontier of Yesso. 

On the twenty-third of March the usual deputation visited the Powhat- 
an, bearing with them the final answer of the commissioners in regard to 
the opening of the port of Matsmai. The document presented was written 
in the Japanese, Chinese, and Dutch languages ; of the latter of which 
the following is a translation : 

" Ships of the United States of North America, in want of provisions, 
wood, and water, shall be supplied in the harbor of ' Hakodadi,' as has been 
desired. Some time will be required to make preparations, inasmuch as this 
harbor is very distant ; consequently a commencement can be made the 7th 
month of next year, (the 17th September, 1855.) 

" Seals attached by order of the high gentlemen. 

" MORYAMA YENOSKE." 

Kaei Sitzinen Nigoats. (Marcli 23, 1854.) 

The Commodore assented to the proposition of the commissioners assign- 
ing the port of Hakodadi, which was near the city of Matsmai, and was 
reported to have a better harbor, on the condition that, on examination, it 
proved equal to the favorable description given of it. He, however, ex- 
pressed his desire that it should be opened at an earlier date than that 
proposed. 

This concession of Hakodadi betokened a favorable prospect for a success- 
ful issue to the great purpose of the expedition ; and the Commodore now 
looked forward with sanguine expectations to an early consummation of his 
labors in the formation of a satisfactory treaty. 



CHAPTER XX. 



Cordiality between Japanese and Americans. — Presents from tLe Japanese.— Coins. — Singular custom of 
including rice, charcoal, and dogs, in a royal Japanese present, — Japanese wrestlers. — Their immense 
size and strength. — Exhibition in the ring. — Contrast in the exhibition of the telegraph and locomo- 
tive. — Parade of the marines. — Yenoske visits tbo flag-ship, and seeks to draw the Commodore out- 
Failure. — Entertainment of Chinese Commissioners on board the flag-ship. — Great cordiality. — Per- 
formance on ship board of " Ethiopian minstrels " to the great amusement of the Japanese.— Negoti- 
ations continued. — Japanese object to the immediate opening of the ports. — Finally concede the 
point to a certain extent. — Absolute and persistent refusal to allow Americans permanently to abide in 
Japan. — Eeluctant consent, after much discussion, to allow one consul to reside at Simoda. — Treaty 
finally agreed on and signed. — Presents by Commodore to the Commissioners, that to the chief being 
the American flag. — Entertainment of the Commodore and his ofiicers by the Commissioners. — Peon- 
liarities of the mission to Japan. — Obstacles to making any treaty at all. — Disposition of the Japanese 
shown in the conferences. — Particular refusal to make a treaty allowing American families or females 
to llvo in Japan. — Analysis of the treaty. — Commodore careful to secure for the United States all 
privileges that might litreafter be granted by treaty to other nations.— Case of the American schoonei 
Foote. 

F T E R the concessions 
made by the Japanese, 
related in the last chap- 
ter, the greatest good feel- 
ing prevailed on both 
sides, and there seemed 
every prospect of estab- 
lishing those national re- 
lations which had been 
the purpose of Commo- 
dore Perry's mission. In 
accordance with the har- 
mony and friendship which 
existed, there was an in- 
terchange of those cour- 
tesies by which mutual good feeling seeks an outward expression. The 
Japanese had acknowledged, with courtly thanks, the presents which had been 
bestowed on behalf of the government, and now, on the 24th of March, 
invited the Commodore to receive the various gifts which had been ordered 
by the Emperor in return, as a public recognition of the courtesy of the 
United States. 

The Commodore, accordingly, landed at Yoku-hama, with a suite of 




428 



EXPEDITION TO JAPAN 



oflGicers and liis interpreters, and was received at the treaty house, witli the 
usual ceremonies, by the high commissioners. The large reception room 
was crowded with the various presents. The red-covered settees, numerous 
tables and stands, and even the floors, were heaped with the different arti- 
cles. The objects were of Japanese manufacture, and consisted of speci- 
mens of rich brocades and silks, of their famous lacquered ware, such as 
chow-chow hoxeSj tables, trays, and goblets, all skilfully wrought and fin- 
ished with an exquisite polish; of porcelain cups of wonderful lightness 
and transparency, adorned with figures and flowers in gold and variegated 
colors, and exhibiting a workmanship which surpassed even that of the 
ware for which the Chinese are remarkable. Fans, pipe-cases, and articles 
of apparel in ordinary use, of no great value, but of exceeding interest, 
were scattered in among the more luxurious and costly objects. 

With the usual order and neatness which seem almost instinctive with 
the Japanese, the various presents had been arranged in lots, and classified 
in accordance with the rank of those for whom they were respectively in- 
tended. The commissioners took their position at the further end of the 
room, and when the Commodore and his suite entered, the ordinary compli- 
ments having been interchanged, the Prince Hayashi read aloud, in Japan- 
ese, the list of presents, and the names of the persons to whom they were 
to be given. This was then translated by Yenoske into Dutch, and by Mr. 
Portman into English. This ceremony being over, the Commodore was 
invited by the commissioners into the inner room, where he was presented 
with two complete sets of Japanese coin, three matchlocks, and two swords. 
These gifts, though of no great intrinsic value, were very significant evi- 
dences of the desire of the Japanese to express their respect for the repre- 
sentative of the United States. The mere bestowal of the coins, in direct 
opposition to the Japanese laws, which forbid, absolutely, all issue of their 
money beyond the kingdom, was an act of marked favor. 




JAPANESE ROYAL GIFTS. 



429 



As the Commodore prepared to depart, the commissioners said that 
there was one article intended for the President which had not yet been 
exhibited. They accordingly conducted the Commodore and his officers to 
the beach, where one or two hundred sacks of rice were pointed out, heaped 
up in readiness to be sent on board the ships. As that immense supply of 
substantial food seemed to excite some wonder on the part of the Ameri- 
cans, Yenoske, the interpreter, remarked that it was always customary with 
the Japanese, when bestowing royal presents, to include a certain quantity 
of rice, although he did not say whether that quantity always amounted, as 
on the present occasion, to hundreds of immense sacks.* 

As illustrative of the usages of the country, we subjoin, in a note, the 
list of articles presented by the Japanese.! 

* The Commodore, upon subsequent inquiry, learned that there are tliree articles which 
in Japan, as he understood, always form part of an Imperial present. These are rice, 
dried fish, and dogs. Some also said that charcoal was always included. Why these 
should have been selected, or what they particularly symbolize, he did not learn. The 




charcoal was not omitted in the gifts on this occasion, and four small dogs of a rare breed were 
sent to the President, as part of the Emperor's gift. We have observed also in the pubhc 
prints that two were put on board of Admu-al Stirling's ship for her Majesty of England. 
The fact that dogs are always part of a royal Japanese present suggested to the Commodore 
the thought that possibly one species of spaniel now in England may be traced to a Japanese 
origin. In 1613, when Captain Saris returned from Japan to England, he carried to the 
King a letter from the Emperor, and presents in return for those which had been sent to 
him by his Majesty of England. Dogs probably formed part of the gifts, and thus may 
have been introduced into the Kingdom the Japanese breed. At any rate, there is a 
species of spaniel in England which it is hard to distinguish from the Japanese dog. The 
species sent as a present by the Emperor is by no means common even in Japan. It is 
never seen running about the streets, or following its master in his walks, and the Com- 
modore was informed that dogs of this kind are costly. 

f List oftlw. articles recdoedfrom the Japanese government , March 24, 1854 ; 



1st. For the government of the United States 
of America, from the Emperor — 
1 gold lacquered writing apparatus. 
1 gold lacquered paper box. 
1 gold lacquered book-case. 



1 lacquered writing table. 
1 censer of bronze, (cow shape,) sup- 
porting silver flower and stand. 
1 set waiters. 
1 flower holder and stand. 



430 



EXPEDITION TO JAPAN 



While contemplating these substantial evidences of Japanese generosity, 
the attention of all was suddenly riveted upon a body of monstrous fellows, 
who tramped down the beach like so many huge elephants. They were pro- 
fessional wrestlers, and formed part of the retinue of the princes, who kept 
them for their private amusement and for public entertainment. They were 
some twenty-five in number, and were men enormously tall in stature, and 
immense in weight of flesh. Their scant costume, which was merely a col- 
ored cloth about the loins, adorned with fringes and emblazoned with the 
armorial bearings of the prince to whom each belonged, revealed their gi- 
gantic proportions in all the bloated fulness of fat and breadth of muscle. 
Their proprietors, the princes, seemed proud of them, and were careful to 
show their points to the greatest advantage before our astonished country- 
men. Some two or three of these huge monsters were the most famous 



2 brasiers. 

10 pieces fine red pongee. 
10 pieces wMte pongee. 
5 pieces flowered crape. 
5 pieces red dyed figured crape. 
2d. From Hayashi, first commissioner — 
1 lacquered writing apparatus. 
1 lacquered paper box. 
1 box of papex'. 
1 box flowered note paper. 
5 boxes stamped note and letter paper. 
4 boxes assorted sea-sbells, 100 in each. 
1 box of branch coral and feather in 

silver. 
1 lacquered chow-chow box. 

1 box, set of three, lacquered goblets. 

7 boxes cups and spoons and goblet 

cut from conch shells. 
3d. From Ido, 2d commissioner — 

2 boxes lacquered waiters, 4 in all. 
2 boxes, containing 20 umbrellas. 

1 box 30 coir brooms. 
4th. From Izawa, 3d commissioner — 
1 piece red pongee. 
1 piece white pongee. 

8 boxes, 13 dolls. 

1 box bamboo woven articles. 

2 boxes bamboo stands. 

6th. From Udono, 4th commisioner — 

3 pieces striped crape. 

2 boxes porcelain cups. 
1 box, 10 jars of soy. 

6th. From Matsusaki, 5th commissioner — 

3 boxes porcelain goblets. 



1 box figured matting. 

35 bundles oak charcoal. 
7th. From Abe, 1st Imperial councillor — 

14 pieces striped figured silk, (taffeta.) 
8th — 12th. From each of other 5 Imperial 
councillors — 

10 pieces striped figured silk, (taffeta.) 
13th. From Emperor to Commodore Perry — 

1 lacquered writing apparatus. 

1 lacquered paper box. 
3 pieces red pongee. 

2 pieces white pongee. 

2 pieces flowered crape. 

3 pieces figured dyed crape. 

14th. From commissioners to Capt. H. A. 
Adams — 
3 pieces plain red pongee. 
2 pieces dyed figured crape. 
20 sets lacquered cups and covers. 
15th — 17th. From commissioners to Mr. 
Perry, Mr. Portman, and Mr. S, W. 
Williams, each — 
2 pieces red pongee. 
2 pieces dyed figured crape. 
10 sets lacquered cups and covers. 
18th — 22d. From commissioners to Mr. Gay, 
Mr. Danby, Mr. Draper, Dr. Mor- 
row, and Mr. J. P. Williams — 
1 piece red dyed figured crape. 
10 sets lacquered cups and covers. 
23d. From Emperor to the squadron — - 

200 bundles of rice, each 5 Japanese 

pecks. 
300 chickens. 




^* 







p 



a 






i i 

Jar 



EXHIBITION OF THE WRESTLERS. 431 

wrestlers in Japan, and ranked as the champion Tom Cribs and Hyers of 
the land. Koyanagi, the reputed bully of the capital, was one of them, and 
paraded himself with the conscious pride of superior immensity and strength. 
He was especially brought to the Commodore, that he might examine his 
massive form. The commissioners insisted that the monstrous fellow should 
be minutely inspected, that the hardness of his well-rounded muscles should 
be felt, and that the fatness of his cushioned frame should be tested by the 
touch. The Commodore accordingly attempted to grasp his immense arm, 
which he found as solid as it was huge, and then passed his hand over the 
monstrous neck, which fell in folds of massive flesh, like the dewlap of a 
prize ox. As some surprise was naturally expressed at this wondrous ex- 
hibition of animal development, the monster himself gave a grunt expressive 
of his flattered vanity. 

They were all so immense in flesh that they appeared to have lost their 
distinctive features, and seemed to be only twenty-five masses of fat. Their 
eyes were barely visible through a long perspective of socket, the prominence 
of their noses was lost in the puffiness of their bloated cheeks, and their 
heads were almost set directly on their bodies, with merely folds of flesh 
where the neck and chin are usually found. Their great size, however, was 
more owing to the development of muscle than to the deposition of fat, for, 
although they were evidently well fed, they were not less well exercised, and 
capable of great feats of strength. As a preliminary exhibition of the power 
of these men, the princes set them to removing the sacks of rice to a con- 
venient place on the shore for shipping. Each of the sacks weighed not less 
than one hundred and twenty-five pounds, and there were only a couple of 
the wrestlers who did not carry each two sacks at a time. They bore the 
sacks on the right shoulder, lifting the first from the ground and adjusting 
it without help, but obtaining aid for the raising of the second. One my,:a 
carried a sack suspended by his teeth, and another, taking one in his arms, 
turned repeated somersaults as he held it, and apparently with as much ease 
as if his tons of flesh had been only so much gossamer, and his load a 
feather. 

After this preliminary display, the commissioners proposed that the Com- 
modore and his party should retire to the treaty house, where they would 
have an opportunity of seeing the wrestlers exhibit their professional feats. 
The wrestlers themselves were most carefully provided for, having constant- 
ly about them a number of attendants, who were always at hand to supply 
them with fans, which they often required, and to assist them in dressing 
and undressing. While at rest they were ordinarily clothed in richly- 
adorned robes of the usual Japanese fashion, but when exercising, they were 
stripped naked, with the exception of the cloth about the loins. After their 
performance with the sacks of rice, their servitors spread upon the huge 



432 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

frames of the wrestlers their rich garments, and led them up to the treaty 
house. 

A circular space of some twelve feet in diameter had been enclosed with- 
in a ring, and the ground carefully broken up and smoothed in front of the 
building, while in the portico, divans covered with red cloth, were arranged for 
the Japanese commissioners, the Commodore, his officers and their various 
attendants. The bands from the ships were also present, and enlivened the 
intervals during the performance with occasional lively strains. As soon as 
the spectators had taken their seats, the naked wrestlers were brought out 
into the ring, and the whole number, being divided into two opposing par- 
ties, tramped heavily backward and forward, looking defiance at each other, 
but not engaging in any contest, as their object was merely to parade their 
points, to give the beholders, as it were, an opportunity to form an estimate 
of their comparative powers, and to make up their betting-books. They 
soon retired behind some screens placed for the purpose, where allj with the 
exception of two, were again clothed in fall dress and took their position on 
seats in front of the spectators. 

The two who had been reserved out of the band, now, on the signal be- 
ing given by the heralds, who were seated on opposite sides, presented them- 
selves. They came in, one after the other, from behind the screen, and 
walked with slow and deliberate steps, as became such huge animals, into 
the centre of the ring. Then they ranged themselves, one against the other, 
at a distance of a few yards. They crouched for a wLHe, eyeing each other 
with a wary look, as if each were watching for a chance to catch his antag- 
onist off his guard. As the spectator looked on these over-fed monsters, 
whose animal natures had been so carefully and successfully developed, and 
as he watched them, glaring with brutal ferocity at each other, ready to ex- 
hibit the cruel instincts of a savage nature, it was easy for him to lose all 
sense of their being human creatures, and to persuade himself that he was 
beholding a couple of brute beasts thirsting for one another's blood. They 
were, in fact, like a pair of fierce bulls, whose nature they had not only ac- 
quired, but even their look and movements. As they continued to eye each 
other they stamped the ground heavily, pawing as it were with impatience, 
and then stooping their huge bodies, they grasped handful s of dirt and flung 
it with an angry toss over their backs, or rubbed it impatiently between their 
giant palms, or under their stout shoulders. They now crouched low, still 
keeping their eyes fixed upon each other and watching every movement, un- 
til, in an instant, they had both simultaneously heaved their massive forms 
in opposing force, body to body, with a shock that might have stunned an ox. 
The equilibrium of their monstrous frames was hardly disturbed by the con- 
cussion, the effect of which was but barely visible in the quiver of the hang- 
ing flesh of their bodies. As they came together, they had thrown their 
brawny arms around each other, and were now entwined in a desperate strug- 



CONTKAST OF AMERICAN EXHIBITION. 433 

gle, each striving with all his enormous strength to throw his adversary. 
Their great muscles rose with the distinct outline of the sculptured form of 
a colossal Hercules, their bloated countenances swelled up with gushes of 
blood which seemed ready to burst through the skin of their reddened faces, 
and their huge bodies palpitated with emotion as the struggle continued. 
At last, one of the antagonists fell, with his immense weight, heavily upon 
the ground, and being declared vanquished, was assisted to his feet and con- 
ducted from the ring. 

The scene was now somewhat varied by a change in the kind of contest 
between two succeeding wrestlers. The heralds, as before, summoned the 
antagonists, and one, having taken his place in the ring, assumed an attitude 
of defence with one leg in advance, as if to steady himself, and his bent 
body, with his head lowered, placed in position, as if to receive an attack. 
Immediately after, in rushed the other, bellowing loudly like a bull, and, 
making at once for the man in the ring, dashed, with his head lowered and 
thrust forward, against the head of his opponent, who bore the shock with 
the steadiness of a rock, although the blood streamed down his face from 
his bruised forehead, which had been struck in the encounter. This ma- 
noeuvre was repeated again and again, the same one acting always as the 
opposing, and the other as the resisting, force ; and thus they kept up their 
brutal contest until their foreheads were besmeared with blood, and the 
flesh on their chests rose in great swollen tumors, from the repeated blows. 
This disgusting exhibition did not terminate until the whole twenty-five 
had, successively, in pairs, displayed their immense powers and savage 
qualities. 

From the brutal performance of these wrestlers, the Americans turned 
with pride to the exhibition — to which the Japanese commissioners were 
now in their turn invited — of the telegraph and the railroad. It was a 
happy contrast, which a higher civilization presented, to the disgusting dis- -iK' 
play on the part of the Japanese officials. In place of a show of brute 
animal force, there was a triumphant revelation, to a partially enlightened <:^ 
people, of the success of science and enterprise. The Japanese took great 
delight in again seeing the rapid movement of the Lilliputian locomotive ; 
and one of the scribes of the commissioners took his seat upon the car, 
while the engineer stood upon the tender, feeding the furnace with one hand, 
and directing the diminutive engine with the other. Crowds of the Japan- 
ese gathered around, and looked on the repeated circlings of the train with 
unabated pleasure and surprise, unable to repress a shout of delight at each 
blast of the steam whistle. The telegraph, with its wonders, though before 
witnessed, still created renewed interest, and all the beholders were unceasing 
in their expressions of curiosity and astonishment. The agricultural instru- 
ments having been explained to the commissioners by Dr. Morrow, a formal 
delivery of the telegraph, the railway, and other articles, which made up the 
28 



434 EXFEDITION TO JAPAN. 

list of American presents, ensued. The Prince of Mimasaki had been dele- 
gated by his coadjutors ceremoniously to accept, and Captain Adams appoint- 
ed by the Commodore to deliver, the gifts ; and each performed his separate 
functions by an interchange of suitable compliments and some half dozen 
stately bows. After this, a detachment of marines from the squadron were 
put through their various evolutions, drills, &c., while the bands furnished 
^ martial music. The Japanese commissioners seemed to take a very great 
interest in this military display, and expressed themselves much gratijBed at 
the soldierly air and excellent discipline of the men. This closed the per- 
formances of the day ; and, the commissioners having accepted an invitation 
from the Commodore to dine with him on the twenty-seventh, the Japanese 
retired to the treaty-house, and the Americans returned to the ships. The 
Japanese presents were all boxed up and sent, together with the rice and 
charcoal, on board the storeship Supply, when, after being duly addressed to 
the proper department of the government, they were stored away for future 
shipment. 

On the next day, (March 25,) Yenoske, accompanied by Kenzeiro, his 
fellow interpreter, came on board the Powhatan to acknowledge, formally, 
in behalf of the commissioners, their gratitude for the exhibition of the ma- 
rines, the locomotive, and the telegraph, with all which they declared them- 
selves highly delighted. Yenoske and his coadjutor were invited to seat 
themselves in the cabin of the Commodore, and, after some expressions of 
courtesy, which the Japanese officials were careful aaver to intermit, pro- 
posed to talk over some points in connexion with the projected treaty. The 
Commodore said he had no objections to the discussion of the matters 
informally; but he protested against considering the interpreters as the 
official representatives of the commissioners, with the latter of whom only, 
he declared, could he treat authoritatively. 

Yenoske then commenced by stating that Hakodadi, which the commis- 
sioners had desired not to have opened before September, 1855, might be 
ready for American ships as early as March of that year, and added that 
Simoda, also, would be prepared by that date. The Commodore replied 
that, in regard to Hakodadi, although it was his intention to visit it during 
the summer, he was willing to accept it without a preliminary survey ; but, 
as for Simoda, it must first be examined before it could be adopted. The 
Japanese now expressed the hope that the Commodore would not go to 
Hakodadi for a hundred days yet, as it was necessary to send to Nagasaki 
for an interpreter, who would be obliged to go to Yeddo previous to going 
to Hakodadi. The Commodore stated that he could not wait so long a 
time, but would be obliged to pay his contemplated visit in about a 
month ; and, as for an interpreter, he would take with him Namoura, one 
of those who was occasionally present in behalf of the commissioners. 
The Japanese replied that it would be necessary to retain Namoura, and, 



CONVERSATION WITH THE INTERPRETERS. 435 

beside, that the dialect at Hakodadi was so diiFerent, another interpreter 
would be required. The Commodore finally declared that, as for Simoda, 
he would consider that port opened, in accordance with his express under- 
standing with the commissioners, as soon as he should receive a favorable 
report of it from Captain Pope, who had been dispatched to make the prop- 
er investigation. 

He also stated that, though he wished all the ports to be opened at once, 
none of them could be practically available for more than a year, since the 
necessary preliminary action of his government would require at least that 
time before ratifying the agreement with the Japanese. The Commodore 
then cut the discussion short by saying that he desired to refer these points 
in detail to the commissioners, which he would do, in writing, at the next 
interview. 

Yenoske, who had evidently been delegated by the commissioners to test 
the firmness of the Commodore in regard to various points in the proposed 
treaty which they were loth to concede, now alluded to the establishment of 
an American consular agent. He said that they would not be required, as 
the governors of the towns would carry on all the business of supplying the 
ships with coals, provisions, and other necessaries, without the intervention 
of any consul, and that, consequently, the commissioners proposed a delay 
of four or five years before consenting to the appointment of any such offi- 
cer among them, that they might, in the meantime, discover how the new 
intercourse with the Americans worked. In reply, the Commodore ex- 
plained to Yenoske the nature and duties of the consular office, and urged 
the residence of such an officer as a consul upon the ground of its advan- 
tage to the Japanese themselves ; and finally declared that this feature must 
be in the treaty, though he was willing there should be but one consul who 
should reside at Simoda. 

The Commodore now informed the interpreters that he wished a junk, 
loaded with a thousand peculs of coal, to be in readiness for him at Simoda, 
after his return from Hakodadi. He also desired various other supplies at 
the same time and place, the whole to be accompanied with a list of prices, 
as he insisted upon paying for everything. He also insisted that the Ameri- 
cans should be permitted to purchase any articles of Japanese manufacture 
they might desire, and should have the liberty of going on shore and ram- 
bling about the country, under such proper restrictions as the Japanese 
authorities might be inclined to impose. The interpreters seemed to admit 
the propriety of these concessions on their part, but were evidently appre- 
hensive of the consequences, remarking that their government had been 
obliged to make severe regulations in regard to the English and Portuguese, 
and animadverting with anger upon the conduct of Captain Pellew at 
Nagasaki some years before. 

Monday, March 27, was the day appointed for the entertainment to 



436 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

which the Commodore had invited the commissioners and their attendants. 
Accordingly, great arrangements were made in the flag-ship preparatory to 
the occasion. The quarter-deck was adorned with a great variety of flags, 
and all parts of the steamer put in perfect order, while the officers, marines, 
and men dressed themselves in their uniforms, and prepared to do honor in 
every respect to their expected visitors. 

The Commodore was determined to give the Japanese a favorable im- 
pression of American hospitality, and had accordingly spared no pains in 
providing most bountifully for the large party expected, which was under- 
stood to comprise no less than seventy, exclusive of the boatmen and me- 
nials. As it was known that the strictness of Japanese etiquette would not 
allow the high commissioners to sit at the same table with their subordi- 
nates, the Commodore ordered two banquets, one to be spread in his cabin 
for the chief dignitaries, and another on the quarter-deck. The Commodore 
had long before made up his mind to give this entertainment as soon as the 
negotiations with the Japanese took a turn sufficiently favorable to justify 
some degree of convivial rejoicing. He had accordingly reserved for it live 
bullocks, some sheep, and a supply of game and poultry. The ordinary 
cabin stores of preserved meats, fish, vegetables, fruits, and a choice supply 
of the best wines, furnished every requisite for the preparation of a gene- 
rous feast. These abundant materials, under the cunning hands of the 
Commodore's chef de cuisine^ assumed nearly every variety of dish attrac- 
tive to the eye and appetising to the taste. 

Previous to coming on board the Powhatan, the commissioners visited 
the slpop-of-war Macedonian, being saluted as they stepped on her deck by 
seventeen guns from the Mississippi, lying near. The great guns and 
boarders having been exercised for their entertainment, the commissioners, 
with their numerous attendants, left for the Powhatan, the Macedonian 
firing a salvo in their honor, as they took their departure. On arriving on 
board the flag-ship, they were first conducted through the different depart- 
ments of the steamer, and examined with minute interest the guns and the 
machinery. A boat was lowered, with a howitzer in its bows, and this was 
repeatedly discharged, much to their amusement ; for, although not a very 
warlike people, (at least in their modern history,) the Japanese evidently 
had a great fondness for martial exercise and display. The engines were 
next put in motion, and they evinced the usual intelligence of the higher 
class of Japanese in their inquiries and remarks. After satisfying their 
curiosity, dinner was announced, and the five commissioners were conducted 
to the Commodore's cabin, where a very handsome banquet awaited them. 
The subordinate officials, amounting to about sixty, were provided for under 
the awning on the quarter-deck, where a large table had been spread with 
an abundant supply. 

The Commodore had invited the four captains of the squadron, his inter- 



DINNER ON THE FLAG-SHIP. 437 

preter, Mr. Williams, and his secretary, to join the commissioners at his 
table. Yenoske, the Japanese interpreter, was allowed the privilege, as a 
special condescension on the part of his superiors, to sit at a side-table in 
the cabin, where his humble position did not seem to disturb either his 
equanimity or his appetite. Hayashi, who always preserved his grave and 
dignified bearing, ate and drank sparingly, but tasted of every dish and 
sipped of every kind of wine. The others proved themselves famous 
trencher men, and entered more heartily than their chief into the convivial- 
ity of the occasion. Matsusaki was the soul of the party, and showed at 
once a very decided appreciation of American fare, and a special fondness 
for the champagne, with no marked aversion, however, to the other wines 
and beverages. The liqueurs, particularly the maraschino, seemed to suit 
the tastes of the Japanese exactly, and they drank unnumbered glasses of 
it. Matsusaki, who was a jovial fellow, soon showed the effects of his copi- 
ous libations, and became very particularly happy. Hayashi, the grave 
prince, was the only one, in fact, whose sobriety was proof against the unre- 
strained conviviality which prevailed among his bacchanalian coadjutors. 

The Japanese party upon deck, who were entertained by a large body 
of ofiicers from the various ships, became quite uproarious under the influ- 
ence of overflowing supplies of champagne, Madeira, and punch, which they 
seemed greatly to relish. The Japanese took the lead in proposing healths 
and toasts, and were by no means the most backward in drinking them. 
They kept shouting at the top of their voices, and were heard far above the 
music of the bands that enlivened the entertainment by a succession of brisk 
and cheerful tunes. It was, in short, a scene of noisy conviviality, and of 
very evident enjoyment on the part of the guests. The eating was no less 
palatable to them than the drinking, and the rapid disappearance of the 
large quantity and variety of the viands profusely heaped upon the table 
was quite a marvel, even to the heartiest feeders among the Americans. 
In the eagerness of the Japanese appetite, there was but little discrimina- 
tion in the choice of dishes and in the order of courses, and the most start- 
ling heterodoxy was exhibited in the confused commingling of fish, flesh, 
and fowl, soups and syrups, fruits and fricassees, roast and boiled, pickles 
and preserves. As a most generous supply had been provided, there were still 
some remnants of the feast left, after the guests had satisfied their voracity, 
and most of these, the Japanese, in accordance with their usual custom, 
stowed away about their persons to carry ofi" with them. The Japanese 
always have an abundant supply of paper within the left bosom of their 
loose robes in a capacious pocket. This is used for various purposes ; one 
species, as soft as our cotton cloth, and withal exceedingly tough, is used 
for a pocket handkerchief; another furnishes the material for taking notes, 
or for wrapping up what is left after a feast. On the present occasion, 
when the dinner was over, all the Japanese guests simultaneously spread 



438 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

out their long folds of paper, and gathering what scraps they could lay theii 
hands on, without regard to the kind of food, made up an envelope of con- 
glomerate eatables, in which there was such a confusion of the sour and 
sweet, the albuminous, oleaginous, and saccharine, that the chemistry of 
Liebig, or the practised taste of the Commodore's Parisian cook, would 
never have reached a satisfactory analysis. Nor was this the result of 
gluttony, or a deficiency of breeding; it was the fashion of the country. 
These unsavory parcels they stowed away in their pockets, or in their capa- 
cious sleeves, to carry away with them. The practice was universal, and 
they not only always followed it themselves, but insisted that their American 
guests, when entertained at a Japanese feast, should adopt it also. Whenever 
the Commodore and his officers were feasted on shore, they had paper parcels 
of what was left thrust into their hands on leaving, which they were obliged 
to take away with them, as it seemed an important part of Japanese hospi- 
tality, which could not be declined without giving ofi"ence. 

After the banquet, the Japanese were entertained by an exhibition of negro 
minstrelsy, got up by some of the sailors, who, blacking their faces and dress- 
ing themselves in character, enacted their parts with a humor that would have 
gained them unbounded applause from a New York audience even at Chris- 
ty's. The gravity of the saturnine Hayashi was not proof against the gro- 
tesque exhibition, and even he joined with the rest in the general hilarity 
provoked by the farcical antics and humorous performances of the mock 
negroes. It was now sunset, and the Japanese prepare^ to depart with quite 
as much wine in them as they could well bear. The jovial Matsusaki threw 
his arms about the Commodore's neck, crushing, in his tipsy embrace, a pair 
of new epaulettes, and repeating, in Japanese, with maudlin affection, these 
words, as interpreted into English : " Nippon and America, all the same 
heart." He then went toddling into his boat, supported by some of his 
more steady companions, and soon all the happy party had left the ships and 
were making rapidly for the shore. The Saratoga fired the salute of seven- 
teen guns as the last boat pulled off from the Powhatan, and the squadron 
was once more left in the usual quiet of ordinary ship's duty. 

The following day the Commodore landed to have a conference in regard 
to the remaining points of the treaty previous to signing. He was met, as 
usual, at the treaty house by the commissioners, who had more than their or- 
dinary share of gravity, probably owing to the natural effects of the previous 
day's conviviality. 

As soon as the Commodore had taken his seat a letter was handed to him, 
which the Japanese stated they had just received from Simoda. It was 
from Commander Pope, and had been transmitted through the authorities 
over land. Its contents gave a satisfactory report of Simoda, and the Com- 
modore at once said that he accepted that port, but declared that it must be 
opened without delay. Hakodadi, he added, would do for the other, and 



DISCUSSION OF THE TKEATY. 439 

Napha, in Lew Chew, could be retained for the third. In regard to the 
other two he was willing, he said, to postpone their consideration to some 
other time. 

The Commodore now proposed to sign the agreement in regard to the 
three ports, and directed his interpreter to read it in Dutch. When the 
document had been thus read and afterwards carefully perused by the Jap- 
anese, they stated that they were prepared to concur in everything except as 
to the immediate opening of Simoda. After discussion, it was finally settled 
that though the port might be opened, the Japanese would address a note 
to the Commodore, stating that everything which might be wanting by 
ships could not be furnished there before the expiration of ten months, but 
that wood and water, and whatever else the place possessed, would be sup- 
plied immediately ; and to this note the Commodore promised to reply, and 
express his satisfaction with such an arrangement. 

The question now came up with respect to the extent of privileges to be 
granted to Americans who might visit Simoda, in the discussion of which it 
was perfectly plain that the Japanese meant to be distinctly understood 
as prohibiting, absolutely, at least for the present, the permaneni resi- 
dence of Americans, with their families, in Japan. The distance, also, to 
which Americans might extend their excursions into the country around the 
ports of Simoda and Hakodadi was settled ; and it is observable, that, at 
the special request of the Japanese, the Commodore named the distance, 
they assenting, at once, to that which he mentioned. 

The proposition to have consular agents residing in Japan was one which 
evidently gave great anxiety to the commissioners, and the same grounds 
were taken and answered as have already been related in the narrative of 
the Commmodore's conversation with the interpreters on a previous page of 
this chapter. The Commodore was firm in saying there must be such agents 
for the sake of the Japanese themselves as well as for that of our own coun- 
trymen, and it was finally conceded that there should be one, to live at Si- 
moda, and that he should not be appointed until a year or eighteen months 
from the date of the treaty. 

Two more articles, including the new points which had been discussed, 
were now added to the transcript of the proposed treaty, and the Japanese 
having promised to bring on board the Powhatan next day a copy, in Dutch, 
of their understanding of the agreement as far as concurred in, the Commo- 
dore took his departure. 

During the next two days several notes passed between the Commodore 
and the Japanese commissioners, in the course of which various questions 
that had been already considered were more definitively settled ; and the 
American interpreters were occupied, in co-operation with the Japanese, 
in drawing up the treaty in the Chinese, Dutch, and Japanese languages. 
On the twenty-ninth, the ships Vandalia and Southampton arrived from 



440 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

Simoda with a confirmation of what Commander Pope had already stated in 
his dispatch which had been transmitted by the Japanese authorities, over 
land, to the Commodore, namely, that the harbor and town of Simoda had 
been found, on examination, suitable in every respect for the purposes of the 
Americans. All was now in readiness for the final signing of the treaty. 

Accordingly, on Friday, the 31st of March, 1854, the Commodore pro- 
ceeded to the treaty house with his usual attendants, and immediately on his 
arrival signed three several drafts of the treaty written in the English lan- 
guage, and delivered them to the commissioners, together with three copies 
of the same in the Dutch and Chinese languages, certified by the interpreters, 
Messrs. "Williams, and Portman, for the United States. At the same time, 
the Japanese commissioners, in behalf of their government, handed to the 
Commodore three drafts of the treaty written respectively in the Japanese, 
Chinese, and Dutch languages, and signed by the four of their body es- 
pecially delegated by the Emperor for that purpose. The following is the 
treaty as agreed upon. 



The United States of America and the Empire of Japan, desiring to es- 
tablish firm, lasting, and sincere friendship between the two nations, have re- 
solved to fix, in a manner clear and positive, by means of a treaty or general 
convention of peace and amity, the rules which shall in future be mutually 
observed in the intercourse of their respective countries ; for which most de- 
sirable object the President of the United States has conferred full powers 
on his commissioner, Matthew Calbraith Perry, special ambassador of the 
United States to Japan ; and the august sovereign of Japan has given simi- 
lar full powers to his commissioners, Hayashi-Daigaku-nokami, Ido, Prince 
of Tsus-Sima, Izawa, Prince of Mimasaki, and Udono, member of the Board 
of Revenue. 

And the said commissioners, after having exchanged their said full pow- 
ers, and duly considered the premises, have agreed to the following articles : 

ARTICLE I. 

There shall be a perfect, permanent, and universal peace, and a sincere 
and cordial amity, between the United States of America on the one part, 
and the Empire of Japan on the other, and between their people, respectively, 
without exception of persons or places. 

ARTICLE IL 

The port of Simoda, in the principality of Idzu, and the port of Hako- 
dadi, in the principality of Matsmai, are granted by the Japanese as ports 
for the reception of American ships, where they can be supplied with wood, 



THE TREATY. 441 

water, provisions, and coal, and other articles their necessities may require, 
as far as the Japanese have them. The time for opening the first named 
port is immediately on signing this treaty ; the last named port is to be 
opened immediately after the same day in the ensuing Japanese year. 

Note. — A tariff of prices shall be given by the Japanese officers of the 
things which they can furnish, payment for which shall be made in gold and 
silver coin. 

ARTICLE III. 

Whenever ships of the United States are thrown or wrecked on the coast 
of Japan, the Japanese vessels will assist them, and carry their crews to 
Simoda or Hakodadi, and hand them over to their countrymen appointed 
to receive them. Whatever articles the shipwrecked men may have preserved 
shall likewise be restored, and the expenses incurred in the rescue and sup- 
port of American and Japanese, who may thus be thrown upon the shores of 
either nation, are not to be refunded. 

ARTICLE IV. 

Those shipwrecked persons and other citizens of the United States shall 
be free as in other countries, and not subjected to confinement, but shall be 
amenable to just laws. 

ARTICLE y. 

Shipwrecked men, and other citizens of the United States, temporarily 
living at Simoda and Hakodadi, shall not be subject to such restrictions 
and confinement as the Dutch and Chinese are at Nagasaki ; but shall be free 
at Simoda to go where they please within the limits of seven Japanese miles 
(or ri) from a small island in the harbor of Simoda, marked on the accompa- 
nying chart, hereto appended ; and shall in like manner be free to go where 
they please at Hakodadi, within limits to be defined after the visit of the 
United States squadron to that place. 

ARTICLE YL 

If there be any other sort of goods wanted, or any business which shaU 
require to be arranged, there shall be careful deliberation between the parties 
in order to settle such matters. 

ARTICLE VIL 

It is agreed that ships of the United States resorting to the ports open to 
them, shall be permitted to exchange gold and silver coin, and articles of 
goods, for other articles of goods, under such regulations as shall be tempora- 
rily established by the Japanese government for that purpose. It is stipulated, 
however, that the ships of the United States shall be permitted to carry away 
whatever articles they are unwilling to exchange. 



442 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

ARTICLE VIII. 

Wood, water, provisions, coal, and goods required, shall only be procured 
through the agency of Japanese ofi&cers appointed for that purpose, and in 
no other manner. 

ARTICLE IX. 

It is agreed, that if, at any future day, the government of Japan shall grant 
to any other nation or nations privileges and advantages which are not herein 
granted to the United States and the citizens thereof, that the same privi- 
leges and advantages shall be granted likewise to the United States and to the 
citizens thereof without any consultation or delay. 

ARTICLE X. 

Ships of the United States shall be permitted to resort to no other ports 
in Japan but Simoda and Hakodadi, unless in distress or forced by stress of 
weather. 

ARTICLE XL 

There shall be appointed by the government of the United States consuls 
or agents to reside in Simoda at any time after the expiration of eighteen 
months from the date of the signing of this treaty ; provided that either of 
the two governments deem such arrangement necessary. 

ARTICLE XIL 

The present convention, having been concluded and duly signed, shall be 
obligatory, and faithfully observed by the United States of America and 
Japan, and by the citizens and subjects of each respective power ; and it is to 
be ratified and approved by the President of the United States, by and with 
the advice and consent of the Senate thereof, and by the august Sovereign 
of Japan, and the ratifications shall be exchanged within eighteen months 
from the date of the signature thereof, or sooner if practicable. 

In faith whereof, we, the respective plenipotentiaries of the United 
States of America and the Empire of Japan, aforesaid, have signed and 
sealed these presents. 

Done at Kanagawa, this thirty-first day of March, in the year of our 
Lord Jesus Christ one thousand eight hundred and fifty-four, and of Keyei 
the seventh year, third month, and third day. 

Immediately on the signing and exchange of the copies of the treaty, 
the Commodore presented the first commissioner, Prince Hayashi, with an 
American flag, remarking that he considered it the highest expression of na- 
tional courtesy and friendship he could offer. The Prince was evidently 
deeply impressed with this significant mark of amity,. and returned his thanks 
for it with indications of great feeling. The Commodore then presented the 



ENTERTAINMENT BY THE COMMISSIONERS. 443 

other dignitaries with the various gifts he had especially reserved for them. 
All formal business being now concluded to the mutual satisfaction of both 
parties, the Japanese commissioners invited the Commodore and his officers 
to partake of an entertainment which had been particularly prepared for 
the occasion. 

The tables were now spread in the large reception hall. These were 
nothing more than wide divans, such as were used for seats, and of the same 
height. They were covered with a red-colored crape, and arranged in order, 
according to the rank of the guests and their hosts, an upper table, raised 
somewhat above the rest, being appropriated to the Commodore, his superior 
officers, and the commissioners. When all were seated, the servitors brought 
in a rapid succession of courses, consisting chiefly of thick soups, or rather 
stews, in most of which fresh fish was a component part. These were served 
in small earthen bowls or cups, and were brought in upon lacquered stands, 
about fourteen inches square and ten high, and placed, one before each guest, 
upon the tables. Together with each dish was a supply of soy or some 
other condiment, while throughout there was an abundant quantity, served 
in peculiar vessels, of the Japanese national liquor, the saki, a sort of 
whiskey distilled from rice. Various sweetened confections, and a multi- 
plicity of cakes, were liberally interspersed among the other articles on the 
tables. Toward the close of the feast, a plate containing a broiled cray fish, 
a piece of fried fish of some kind, two or three boiled shrimps, and a small 
square pudding with something of the consistence of blanc mange, was 
placed before each, with a hint that they were to follow the guests on their 
return to the ships, and they were accordingly sent and duly received after- 
ward. 

The feast of the commissioners did not make a strikingly favorable im- 
pression on their guests ; but they were greatly pleased with the courtesy 
of their hosts, whose urbanity and assiduous attentions left nothing to de- 
sire on the score of politeness. They left, however, it must be confessed 
with appetites but scantily gratified by the unusual fare that had been spread 
before them. It is true that apologies were made, and this, by the way, 
proved to be an habitual feature of their entertainments, and causes were 
assigned for the poorness of the repast on the score of the difficulty of 
obtaining the best articles of food at Kanagawa. The dinner given to the 
commissioners on board the Powhatan would have made, in quantity, at least 
a score of such as that offered by the Japanese on this occasion. To dis- 
pose of the subject in one word, the entertainments of the Japanese, gene- 
rally, while full of hospitality, left but an unfavorable impression of their 
skill in cookery. The Lew Chewans evidently excelled them in good 
living. 

After the feast, which passed pleasantly and convivially, mutual compli- 
ments being freely exchanged, and healths drunk in full, though Lilliputian, 



444 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

cups of saki, the commissioners expressed great anxiety about the proposed 
visit of the Commodore to Yedo. They earnestly urged him not to take his 
ships any higher up the bay, as, they said, it would lead to trouble, by which 
the populace might be disturbed, and their own lives, perhaps, jeoparded. 
The Commodore argued the matter with them for some considerable time, 
and, as they still pertinaciously urged their objections to his visit to the 
capital, it was agreed that the "subject should be further discussed by an in- 
terchange of notes. The meeting then broke up. 

Before proceeding further with the narrative, it may be well here briefly 
to pause and define with precision what had been accomplished by means of 
the treaty that had been signed. 

When it was determined by our government to send an expedition to 
Japan, those in authority were not unmindful of the peculiar characteristics 
of that singular nation. Unlike all other civilized people, it was in a state 
of voluntary, long-continued, and determined isolation. It neither desired 
nor sought communication with the rest of the world, but, on the contrary, 
strove to the uttermost to prevent it. It was comparatively an easy task 
to propose to any power, the ports of which were freely visited by ships 
from every part of the world, the terms of a commercial treaty. Such 
powers have recognized commerce itself as part of their national system, and 
the principle of permitting it is freely avowed by their usage; a treaty, 
therefore, had but to define its privileges, and state the conditions on which 
they might be enjoyed in the case of any nation se«king to make such a 
treaty. But not so, when, by any power, commerce itself was interdicted 
and made contrary to law. Before general conditions of commerce could be 
proposed to such a power, it was necessary to settle the great preliminary 
that commerce would be allowed at all. Again, if that preliminary were 
settled affirmatively, a second point, of great moment, remained to be dis- 
cussed, viz., to what degree shall intercourse for trading purposes be extend- 
ed ? Among nations accustomed to the usages of Christendom, the princi- 
ples and extent of national comity in the interchanges of commercial trans- 
actions have been so long and so well defined and understood, that, as be- 
tween them, the term, " commercial treaty," needs no explanation ; its mean- 
ing is comprehended alike by all, and in its stipulations it may cover the 
very broad extent that includes everything involved in the operations of 
commerce between two maritime nations. All ports are open, all commodi- 
ties may be imported or exported, subject only to such regulations as may 
have been agreed upon between the contracting parties. The foundation for 
the contract existed before its terms were adjusted. But in a kingdom 
which, in its polity, expressly ignored commerce and repudiated it as an evil 
instead of a good, it was necessary, as we have said, to lay the very founda- 
tion as well as adjust the terms. 

Hence the instructions to Commodore Perry covered broad ground, and 



CONSIDERATIONS ON THE TREATY. 445 

his letters of credence conformed to his instructions. If he found the Ja- 
panese disposed to abandon at once and forever their deliberately adopted 
plan of non-intercourse with foreigners (an event most unlikely), his powers 
were ample to make with them a commercial treaty as wide and general as 
any we have with the nations of Europe. If they were disposed to relax 
but in part their jealous and suspicious system, formally to profess relations 
of friendship, and opening some only of their ports to our vessels to^allow a 
trade in those ports between their people and ours, he was authorized to ne- 
gotiate for this purpose, and secure for his country such privileges as he 
could, not inconsistent with the self-respect which, as a nation, we owed to 
ourselves. It must not be forgotten, in the contemplation of what was ac- 
complished, that our representative went to a people who, at the time of his 
arrival among them, had, both by positive law and an usage of more than 
two hundred years, allowed but one of their harbors, Nagasaki, to be opened 
to foreigners at all ; had permitted no trade with such foreigners when they 
did come, except, under most stringent regulations, to the Dutch and Chi- 
nese ; were in the habit of communicating with the world outside of them 
at second hand only, through the medium of the Dutch, who were in prison 
at Dezima; and a people who, as far as we know, never made a formal 
treaty with a civilized nation in the whole course of their antecedent his- 
tory. To expect such a people to make a compact such as would be made 
between two great commercial nations, England and ourselves, for instance, 
would have been simply ridiculous. There were, in fact, but two points on 
which the Commodore's instructions did not allow him a large discretion, 
to be exercised according to circumstances. These two were, first, that if, 
happily, any arrangements for trade, either general or special, were made, it 
was to be distinctly stipulated that, under no circumstances, and in no degree, 
would the Americans submit to the humiliating treatment so long borne by 
the Dutch in carrying on their trade. The citizens of our country would be 
dealt with as freemen, or there should be no dealings at all. The second 
point was, that in the event of any of our countrymen being cast, in God's 
providence, as shipwrecked men on the coast of Japan, they should not be 
treated as prisoners, confined in cages, or subjected to inhuman treatment, 
but should be received with kindness, and hospitably cared for until they 
could leave the country. 

It will easily be seen, therefore, that, from the circumstances of the case, 
there was novelty in the features of the mission on which Commodore Perry 
was sent. Little or no guidance was to be derived from our past diplomatic 
experience or action. The nearest approach to such guidance was to be 
found in our treaty with China, made in 1844. This, therefore, was care- 
fully studied by the Commodore. It purports to be " a treaty or general 
convention of peace, amity, and commerce," and to settle the rules to " be 
mutually observed in the intercourse of the respective countries." So far as 



446 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

" commerce " is concerned, it permits " the citizens of the United States to 
frequent " five ports in China, " and io reside with their families and trade 
there, and to proceed at pleasure with their vessels and merchandise to or 
from any foreign port, and from either of the said five ports to any other of 
them." As to duties on articles imported, they are to pay according to a 
tariff which is made part of the treaty, and in no case are to be subjected to 
higher duties than those paid, under similar circumstances, by the people of 
other nations. Consuls are provided for, to reside at the five open ports ; 
and those trading there are " permitted to import from their own or any 
other ports into China, and sell there, and purchase therein, and export to 
their own or any other ports all manner of merchandise, of which the impor- 
tation or exportation is not prohibited by " the treaty. In short, so far as 
the five ports are concerned, there exists between us and China a general 
treaty of commerce ; and accordingly the twenty-second article expressly de- 
clares, that " relations of peace and amity between the United States and 
China" are " established by this treaty, and the vessels of the United States 
are admitted to trade freely to and from the five ports of China open to for- 
eign commerce." 

It certainly was very desirable to obtain, if possible, similar privileges 
from Japan, and the Commodore resolved that, if the Japanese would ne- 
gotiate at all, his first efforts should be directed to that end. Accordingly 
he caused to be prepared, in the Chinese character, a transcript of the trea- 
ty, with such verbal alterations as would make it ap>plicable to Japan, with 
the view of exhibiting it to the Imperial commissioners of that country 
should he be so successful as to open negotiations. He was not sanguine 
enough to hope that he could procure an entire adoption of the Chinese 
treaty by the Japanese. He was not ignorant of the difference in national 
characteristics between the inhabitants of China and the more independent, 
self-reliant and sturdy natives of the Japanese islands. He knew that the 
latter held the former in some degree of contempt, and treated them, in the 
matter of trade, very much as they did the Dutch. He was also aware 
that the Chinese, when they made their treaty, did know something of the 
advantages that might result from an intercourse with the rest of the world; 
while as to the Japanese, in their long-continued isolation, either they 
neither knew nor desired such advantages; or, if they knew them, feared they 
might be purchased at too high a price in the introduction of foreigners who, 
as in the case of the Portuguese, centuries before, might seek to overturn 
the empire. It was too much, therefore, to expect that the Japanese would 
in all the particulars of a treaty imitate the Chinese. Still, they might be 
disposed to adopt some of its most important features when suggested to 
them by a knowledge of what other orientals had done. 

But of the difficulties encountered, even after the Japanese had con- 
sented to negotiate, the best account we think may be given from the con- 



CONFERENCES IN NEGOTIATION. 447 

ferences and discussions between the respective negotiators, of all which most 
accurate reports were kept on both sides, in the form of dialogue. At the 
first meeting of the Commodore with the Imperial commissioners, on the 
8th of March, he acted on the plan he had proposed to himself with re- 
spect to the treaty with China, and thus addressed them : 

" Com. Perry. I think it would be better for the two nations that a 
treaty similar to the one between my country and the Chinese should be 
made between us. I have prepared the draft of one almost identical with 
our treaty with China. I have been sent here by my government to make a 
treaty with yours ; if I do not succeed now^ my government will probably 
send more ships here ; but I hope we will soon settle matters amicably." 

" Japanese. We wish for time to have the document translated into 
the Japanese language." 

This was but one among a hundred proofs of their extreme suspicion and 
caution; for there was not one of the Imperial commissioners, probably, 
who could not have read, without the least difficulty, the document as fur- 
nished by the Commodore ; and certain it is that their interpreters could 
have read it off into Japanese at once. 

The Commodore, whose wish it was to do as far as possible everything 
that might conciliate, of course made no objection to a request so seemingly 
reasonable, though he knew it to be needless, and was content to wait pa- 
tiently for their reply. In one week that reply came in writing, and was 
very explicit : " As to opening a trade, such as is now carried on by China 
with your country, we certainly cannot yet bring it about. The feelings and 
manners of our people are very unlike those of outer nations, and it will be 
exceedingly difficult, even if you wish it, to immediately change the old reg- 
ulations for those of other countries. Moreover, the Chinese have long had 
intercourse with western nations, while we have had dealings at Nagasaki 
with only the people of Holland and China." 

This answer was not entirely unexpected, and put an end to all prospect 
of negotiating a " commercial treaty," in the European sense of that phrase. 
It only remained, therefore, to secure, for the present, admission into the 
kingdom, and so much of trade as Japanese jealousy could be brought to 
concede. At length, after much and oft repeated discussion, the point was 
yielded that certain ports might be opened to our vessels ; and then, in the 
interview of March 25th, came up the subject of consuls. 

" Japanese. About the appointment of consuls or agents, the commis- 
sioners desire a delay of four or five years to see how the intercourse works. 
The governor of the town and the official interpreter will be able to carry 
on all the business of supplying provisions, coal, and needed articles, with 
the captain, without the intervention of a consul." 

" Com. Perry. The duties of a consul are to report all difficulties 
between American citizens and Japanese to his government in an au- 



448 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

thentic manner, assist the Japanese in carrying out their laws and the pro- 
visions of the treaty, and recovering debts made by the Americans ; and 
also communicating to the government at Washington whatever the Japan- 
ese wish, as no letters can be received after this through the Dutch ; and if 
no consuls are received, then a ship of war must remain in Japan constantly, 
and her captain do the duties of a consul." 

" Japanese. If we had not felt great confidence in you, we should not 
have consented to open our ports at all. Consuls may be accepted by and by, 
after experience has shown their need ; and we hope that all American cit- 
izens obey the laws of their country, and behave properly." 

" Com. Perry. True ; and I hope no difficulty will arise ; and this ap- 
pointment of consuls in Japan, as they are in China, Hawaii, and every- 
where else, is to prevent and provide for difficulties. No American will re- 
port his own misdeeds to his own government, nor can the Japanese bring 
them to our notice, except through a government agent. This provision 
must be in the treaty, though I will stipulate for only one, to reside at 
Simoda, and he will not be sent, probably, for a year or two from this time." 

And thus it was that the Commodore had to explain everything, and feel 
his way, step by step, in the progress of the whole negotiation. 

" Japanese. The commissioners wish every point desired by the Ad- 
miral to be stated clearly, for the Japanese are not equal to the Americans, 
and have not much to give in exchange." 

" Com. Perry. I have already stated all my views as regards our inter- 
course in the draft of the treaty you have." [This was one prepared by the 
Commodore after the rejection of the transcript of the Chinese treaty.] 
" Let the commissioners state their objections to it. This treaty now to be 
made is only a beginning, and as the nations know each other, the Japanese 
will permit Americans to go anywhere, to Mount Fusi, all over the coun- 
try." 

" Japanese. We have found restrictions necessary against the Portu- 
guese and English." Then followed observations by the Japanese on Pel- 
lew's entry into Nagasaki harbor, which showed how much dislike of the 
English that event had occasioned. A strong proof of their remarkable 
caution was furnished by the Japanese at the conference held on the 28th 
of March, when most of the terms of the treaty had been agreed upon. 

" Com. Perry. I am prepared now to sign the treaty about these three 
harbors." 

[Mr. Portman, interpreter, then read in Dutch that portion of the treaty 
which contained such points as had been already agreed upon.] 

" Japanese. It is all correct except that we have objection to opening 
the port of Simoda immediately ; if any vessels were to go there in dis- 
tress, we would be glad to furnish them with provisions, wood, and water." 

" Com. Perry. You have already consented, in one of your letters to 



CONFERENCES ON THE TREATY. 449 

me, to open that port immediately. I am very desirous of settling that 
matter now, as I wish to dispatch the Saratoga home to inform the govern- 
ment, before Congress adjourns, how matters are advancing; that will take 
eome time, and there is no probability that any ships will come here before 
ten or twelve months have expired ; so that it will make no difference to you 
whether you put it in the treaty to be opened now or in ten months." 

" Japanese. We are willing to put it in the treaty ' to be opened now,' 
if you give us a letter or promise that no ships will come here before the 
President gives his permission." 

" Com. Perry. I cannot do that very well, but I am willing to put it off 
ninety days ; that will be about the time I shall return from Hakodadi ; 
it was your own proposition yesterday to open that port immediately. I 
consent to this, however, to show you how desirous I am to do what I can 
to please you. I cannot consent to a longer time." 

" Japanese. If we put it in the treaty to be opened now, we would like 
you to give us an order that no ship shall enter that port before ten 
months." 

" Com. Perry. I cannot do that. But there is no probability that any 
ships will come here before that time, as I shall not leave here for three 
months, and they will not hear of it ; as I said before, there is no proba- 
bility that ships will go there before the expiration of ten months." 

" Japanese. When you come back from Matsmai, we will have a plenty 
of provisions at Simoda for the whole squadron ; but to other ships we can- 
not furnish more than wood, water, &c." 

" Com. Perry. When we return from Matsmai we shall not want many 
provisions, as we shall be going to a place where we can get a plenty. It is 
only the principle I wish settled now. I have come here as a peacemaker, 
and I want to settle everything now, and thus prevent trouble hereafter ; and 
I wish to write home to my government that the Japanese are friends." 

" Japanese. We will write you a letter stating that we cannot furnish 
everything before ten months, but that we can furnish wood and water imme- 
diately, and that we will furnish such other things as we possibly can. This 
letter we would like you to answer." 

" Com. Perry. Very well ; I will." 

" Japanese. [Entering on another part of the terms agreed on.] We 
will not confine Americans, or prevent them from walking around ; but we 
would like to place a limit to the distance they may walk." 

" Com. Perry. I am prepared to settle that matter now, but they must 
not be confined to any particular house or street. Suppose we make the 
distance they may walk, the same distance that a man can go and come in a 
day. Or, if you choose, the number of lis or ris may be agreed upon." 

" Japanese. We are willing that they shall walk as far as they can go 
and come in a day." 

29 



450 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

" Com. Perry. There is no probability that sailors would want to go on 
shore more than once from curiosity; beside, they will have their daily 
duties to attend to on board ship, and will not be able to go on shore." 

'' Japanese. We do not want any women to come and remain at Si- 
moda." 

" Com. Perry. The probability is but few women will go there, and 
they only the wives of the officers of the ships." 

" Japanese. When you come back from Matsmai we would like you to 
settle the distance Americans are to walk. It is difficult for us to settle the 
distance." 

" Com. Perry. Say the distance of seven Japanese miles in any direction 
from the centre of the city of Simoda." 

" Japanese. Yery well. A few miles will make no difference. You 
are requested not to leave agents until after you have experienced that it is 
necessary." 

" Com. Perry. I am willing to defer the appointment of a consul or 
agent one year or eighteen months from the date of signing the treaty ; and 
then, if my government should think it necessary, it will send one." 

In fact, not an article of the treaty was made but upon the most serious 
deliberation by the Japanese. In answer to a question from Captain Adams 
in the very first stages of the negotiation, they replied : " The Japanese are 
unlike the Chinese ; they are averse to change ; and when they make a com- 
pact of any kind they intend it shall endure for a thousand years. For this 
reason it will be best to deliberate and examine well the facilities for trade 
and the suitableness of the port before any one is determined on." Probably 
nothing but the exercise of the most perfect truthfulness and patience would 
ever have succeeded in making with them a treaty at all; and from the lan- 
guage of one of their communications, it is obvious that, with characteristic 
caution, they meant that their present action should be but a beginning of 
intercourse, which might or might not be afterward made more extensive ac- 
cording to the results of what they deemed the experiment. Thus they say : 
" As our ideas of things and what we each like are still very dissimilar, as 
are also our notions of the prices or worth of things, this makes it indispen- 
sable that we both first make a mutual trial and examination." This shows 
the spirit in which they negotiated. The treaty has already been laid before 
the reader. A brief analysis of it is all that is here necessary. And it is to 
be remarked first, that it evidently implies in its language and proper con- 
struction future and more enlarged regulations as to commerce. Thus, in 
article YI., it is declared : " If there be any other sort of goods wanted, or 
any business which shall require to be arranged, there shall be careful delib- 
eration between the parties in order to settle such matters." And again, in 
article YIL, " It is agreed that ships of the United States, resorting to the 
ports open to them, shall be permitted to exchange gold and silver coin and 



CONSIDERATIONS ON THE TREATY. 451 

articles of goods for other articles of goods, under such regulations as shall 
be temporarily established by the Japanese government for that purpose." 
In both these articles the Japanese substituted the word " goods " for " mer- 
chandise," as from their ignorance of the customs and terms, used in foreign 
trade, they did not know what might be included in the technical meaning 
of the word "merchandise; " while "goods" had, to their minds, a, well defined 
and perfectly intelligible signification. The words " shall be," in the sixth 
article, point to the probable necessity of future treaty-making with us, to 
" settle" " any business which shall require to be arranged." This, it must 
be remembered, was the first formal treaty they ever made on the subject of 
foreign trade, at least since the expulsion of the Portuguese ; and they evi- 
dently meant to proceed cautiously by single steps. Again, in article VI I. , 
the word " temporarily " is used, inserted by them, and meant to imply some 
future action toward a more complete commercial arrangement or treaty, for 
which, at the present, they were not prepared. They meant, therefore, their 
action to be initiative only now, but contemplating, prospectively, a more 
enlarged commercial intercourse. 

Secondly. There is observable throughout, the predominating influence 
of the national prejudice against the permanent introduction of foreigners 
among them. The word " reside " is but once used in the whole treaty, and 
that in the eleventh article relative to consuls. The details of conferences, 
already given, show how anxiously they sought to avoid having consuls at 
all. Indeed, Commodore Perry says, " I could only induce the commission- 
ers to agree to this article, by endeavoring to convince them that it would 
save the Japanese government much trouble, if an American agent were to 
reside at one or both of the ports opened by the treaty, to whom complaints 
might be made of any mal-practice of the United States' citizens who might 
visit the Japanese dominions." They wanted no permanent foreign resi- 
dents among them, official or unofficial. This was shown most unequivocally 
in the remark already recorded in one of the conferences : " ive do not 
ivant any women to come and remain at Simoda.''^ Simoda was one of the 
ports open for trade with us ; they knew that our people had wives and 
daughters, and that a man's family were ordinarily resident with him in his 
permanent abode, and that if the head of the family lived in Simoda as a 
Japanese would live, there would certainly be women who would " come and 
remain at Simoda." But more than this. It will be remembered that the 
Commodore had submitted to them our treaty with China, and they had 
held it under consideration for a week, at the end of which time they said, 
" as to opening a trade, such as is now carried on by China with j^our country, 
we certainly cannot yet bring it about. The Chinese have long had inter- 
course with western nations, while we have had dealings at Nagasaki with 
only the people of Holland and China." Now what was "' such a trade" as 
we carried on with China ? The Japanese read in our treaty that five ports 



452 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

were open to us, that permission was given " to the citizens of the United 
States to frequent" them; and further, " to reside with their families and 
trade there.'''' This they deliberately declined assenting to when they re- 
fused to make a treaty similar to that with China. They surely would not 
afterward knowingly insert it in any treaty they might make with us. The 
only permanent residence to which they gave assent, and that most reluc- 
tantly, was the residence of a consul. Temporary residence was allowed to 
our shipwrecked citizens, as well as to those who went to Simoda or Hako- 
dadi on commercial business. They are allowed to land, to walk where they 
please within certain limits, to enter shops and temples without restriction, 
to purchase in the shops, and have the articles sent to the proper public 
office duly marked, where they will pay for them, to resort to public houses 
or inns that are to be built for their refreshment, " when on shore " at Simo- 
da and Hakodadi ; and until built, a temple, at each place, is assigned " as a 
resting-place for persons in their walks." They may accept invitations to 
partake of the hospitality of any of the Japanese ; but they are not permit- 
ted to enter "military establishments or private houses without leaved 
Without leave, our citizens cannot enter them within the territories of any 
nation with which we have a treaty. In short, the whole treaty shows that 
the purpose of the Japanese was to try the experiment of intercourse with 
us before they made it as extensive or as intimate as it is between us and the 
Chinese. It was all they would do at the time, and much, very much, 
was obtained on the part of our negotiator in procuring a concession even to 
this extent. 

But, as he knew that our success would be but the forerunner of that of 
other powers, and as he believed that new relations of trade once commenced, 
not only with ourselves, but with England, France, Holland, and Russia, could 
not, in the progress of events, fail effectually and forever not only to break up 
the old restrictive policy, and open Japan to the world, but must also lead 
gradually to liberal commercial treaties ; he wisely, in the ninth article, with- 
out "consultation or delay," secured to the United States and their citizens 
all privileges and advantages which Japan might hereafter " grant to any 
other nation or nations." 

As far as we have yet learned, all other powers have been content to 
obtain just what we, as pioneers, have obtained. Their treaties are like 
ours.* That of Russia is copied from ours, with no change but that of the 
substitution of the port of Nagasaki for Napha in Lew Chew. We respect- 
fully submit, therefore, that all, and indeed, more than all, that, under the 



* In a note to a former page, we have said intelligence had reached us of a commercial 
treaty between England and Japan. We have reason to think this is a mistake. If there 
be such a treaty, we are entitled, under our 9th article, to all its privileges and advantages, 
at once. 



CASE OF THE SCHOONER FOOTE. 453 

circumstances, could reasouably bave been expected, bas been accomplisbed. 
Japan has been opened to the nations of the west ; and it is not to be be- 
lieved, that having once effected an entrance, the enlightened powers that 
have made treaties with her will go hacktuard, and, by any indiscretion, lose 
what, after so many unavailing efforts for centuries, has at last been happily 
attained. It belongs to these nations to show Japan that her interests will 
be promoted by communication with them ; and, as prejudice gradually van- 
ishes, we may hope to see the future negotiation of commercial treaties, more 
and more liberal, for the benefit, not of ourselves only, but of all the mari- 
time powers of Europe, for the advancement of Japan, and for the upward 
progress of our common humanity. It would be a foul reproach to Chris- 
tendom now to force Japan to relapse into her cheerless and unprogressive 
state of unnatural isolation. She is the youngest sister in the circle of com- 
mercial nations; let those who are elder kindly take her by the hand, and 
aid her tottering steps, until she has reached a vigor that will enable her to 
walk firmly in her own strength. Cautious and kindly treatment now will 
soon lead to commercial treaties as liberal as can be desired. 

Note, — Scarcely had this chapter heen completed, hefore the piihlic prints of the coun- 
try brought to our notice the results of the first voyage made to Hakodadi after the signing 
of the treaty. The facts appear to be substantially as follows : On the 13th of February, 
I800, the American schooner C. E. Foote, sailed from Honolulu for Japan, via the Bonin 
islands. The vessel was fitted out by Messrs. Reed and Dougherty, American citizens, and 
was loaded, for the most part, with articles of ship chandlery, chains and anchors, pork 
and beef; sails, tar, cordage, &c. The purpose of the voyage was to fulfil a contract " to 
establish at Hakodadi a supply depot for American whale ships, so that they may winter 
at that place instead of Honolulu." Among the passengers were Mr. Reed and his family, 
and Mr. Doty and his family. These families included three American ladies and some 
children. On the 15th of March the vessel arrived at Simoda. She there found some of 
the officers and crew of the Russian frigate Diana, which had been wrecked by the effects 
of an earthquake at Simoda in the previous December. The Foote had touched at Simoda 
in the expectation of meeting there the United States ships Powhatan and Vandalia, to 
which she carried letters, and also to consume the time that had to elapse, some few weeks, 
before, under the treaty, the port of Hakodadi would be open to our vessels. On the arrival 
of the vessel, guard and shore boats surrounded her, and great curiosity was manifested to 
see the American ladies. The Russians were anxious to get away, and the owners of the 
American vessel at once negotiated with them to take them to Petropaulowski. This made 
it necessary to land all the passengers and a part of the cargo at Simoda. The schooner 
having been chartered, and her provisions sold to the Russians, Mr. Reed and Mr. Doty, 
with the three ladies of the party and the children, landed, and were assigned a residence 
in one of the temples named in the treaty to be used for that purpose until inns should be 
built, and carpenters were employed to make it convenient. The Japanese were very 
curious to see the ladies and children ; but the temple and grounds were considered as 
exclusively the Americans'. No Japanese, Mr. Reed states, in a communication to the 
" Alta Californian," except the officers, were pei*mitted to enter but by special permission. 
" To guard against intrusion," (thus he writes,) " four officers are stationed at the gate, 
and are relieved every few hours. The watch is kept up day and night. Near the gate is 



454 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

a small house in which are stationed live other officers, who transmit aU messages to or 
from us, introduce to us all who are allowed to enter, and make for us all the purchases we 
require." The list of articles of food furnished is both varied and extensive. Nor were the 
Americans confined to the temple. INIr. Reed thus writ;es : "In walking into the country, 
we found that pleasing views invited us from one point to another, from mountain peak to 
mountain peak, as we admired the strangeness, and richness, and beauty, until, though we 
started only for a morning walk, we often wandered too far to return the same night." The 
amusements of the party were not disturbed ; for, on the evening of the 22d of March, the 
Americans united with the Russian officers in celebrating, in the temple, by music and 
dancing, the birthday anniversary of one of their number. Nor was this all : the time 
of the sojourn of our countrymen was about two months and a half; and, during this 
period, as appears from Mr. Doty's communication to the " San Francisco Herald," " Mr. 
Reed spent his time in selecting and purchasing a cargo of Japan goods for San Francisco, 
composed of lacquer ware, rice, silks, &c., &c.," which cargo, the California papers inform 
us, was afterward sold at San Francisco at a large profit. 

It would appear, therefore, briefly to recapitulate, that our countrymen were permitted 
to land in Japan, were furnished with a house which was made comfortable for their resi- 
dence, were permitted to store part of the cargo of their vessel, were plentifully supplied 
with necessary food, were permitted to walk about the country, were not molested in their 
amusements, and were allowed to purchase a cargo from the Japanese and take it away. 
Now, not one of these things could any American have done but for the treaty made by 
Commodore Perry. 

Mr. Reed further ■^\Tites, in the columns of the " Alta Cahfornian:" "The Japanese 
began early to interrogate us upon our intentions, and we told them in >vriting that we 
came there to live." In the letter of Reed and Dougherty, addressed to the governor of 
Simoda, on the 22d of April, 1855, as published in the " New York Herald" of the 15th 
of October, 1855, they thus state their intentions : " We touched here, expecting to meet 
the Powhatan and Vandalia, to which we had letters, and also to consume time, knowing 
that, by the treaty, we could not go to that place (Hakodadi) before the middle or last 
of this month." 

" We fomid the officers and crew of the wrecked ship Diana here, and anxious to go 
away, and we at once negotiated to transport them to Petropaulowski. On this account 
it became necessary for us to come on shore, and also to land part of our cargo and all the 
passengers." 

" It was not our design to land here, nor is it our intention now to remain here longer 
than till our vessel returns, which we now expect in fifteen or twenty days. Should our 
schooner be lost and never return, our plans may be changed altogether ; and, should we 
not hear from her for two months to come, we then may seek other means of conveyance 
from this place." 

" Our object is not to mingle or trade with the Japanese, but to trade with and assist 
our own people and ships that visit Japan." 

As to the treaty, the letter proceeds : " We know well the interpretation and meaning 
given to it by our government. We shall never compromise our government by saying 
that we have no right to rernain here a week, a month, a year, or even five years, for we 
know, by the treaty, we have a perfect right so to do." 

Mr. Doty, in his letter to the authorities of Simoda, dated the 23d of April, as published 
in the " New York Herald" of October 15, 1855, thus writes : 

" I give you in writing the following reason for my sojourn at this place : 

" I arrived in this port on the 15th ult., on board the American vessel C. E. Foote. 
Soon after our arrival, I was informed that the vessel would sail hence to Heda, and from 



CASE OF THE SCHOONER FOOTE. 455 

thence to a foreign port, -with officers and men of the late Russian frigate Diana. Not 
wishing to make the ahove voyage with my fomily, I came on shore, and now must neces- 
sarih' remain here until the return of our vessel, when it is my intention to leave Simoda. 

" If the vessel should not return after a reasonable time for making the voyage has 
elapsed, I shall avail myself of the first opportunity that offei's to sail direct for the United 
States of America. 

" In answer to the question of right of Americans to reside here, I would most respect- 
fully beg leave to represent that, in my opinion, it is a matter to be settled by our 
respective governments, and, therefore, decline making any further communication upon 
this subject." — -«^ 

A proclamation was then issued by the authorities of Simoda, as follows ; A 

"PROCLAMATION. 

" To THE AmericIlXS at Yokdsheu Temple : 

" About your leaving this place, your intention is heard, which you have declared, that 
staying in this place is not properly your intention. But because the Russians have 
engaged the vessel manned by you, with which they have gone home, you have been com- 
pelled to stay here, and that you^will, on the return of the vessel, leave this place, or should 
she not return in the intended time, to aAvait the arrival of a vessel that sails for your 
country, and Avith that vessel to leave this place. 

" According to this declaration, you must, on the return of your vessel, leave this place ; 
or should she not return in the declared time, then, upon the arrival of an American ship, 
you must leave this place, without, at that time, expressing any excuse to delay you. 

" Youi* present stay among us is found necessary, but it cannot in futm-e be taken as an 
example. 

" Never let it be asked again to stay. It is not only so in this place, but also at Hako- 
dadi, which you and all Americans are obhged to observe. 

" The foreg ing is communicated by word of mouth from the governor of Simoda." 

Soon after this. Commander Rodgers, of the United States surveying expedition to the 
North Pacific, arrived at Simoda in the Vincennes, and to him the Americans appealed. 
This officer, taking distinctly the ground that the proper interpretation of the treaty was 
not confided to him, but could be settled only by the two governments of Japan and the 
United States, still endeavored, by a temperate and judicious letter to the authorities of 
Simoda, to induce them to put a different constniction from that they had adopted upon 
the " temporary residence " allowed to Americans under the treaty ; his effort, however, 
was fruitless. y- 

But the object of Messrs. Reed and Dougherty, as they have stated it in the " San Fran- 
cisco Herald" of the 18th of September, 1855, was to transport goods, and to establish 
themselves in Hakodadi for the purpose of supplying our whale ships that designed to win- 
ter there instead of at Honolulu. In other words, their object was to make at Hakodadi a 
permanent commercial agency and supply depot for whale ships ; to hve in Japan with their 
families, just as they would live in any European foreign port where they might establish 
a storehouse. They, therefore, while yet at Simoda, on the 20th of iMay, addressed the 
following letter to the governor of Hakodadi, and forwarded it by the Vincennes, that was 
about to sail for Hakodadi : 

" To His Excellency the Governor of Hakodadi : 

" We have the honor to communicate with you, through Commodore Rodgers, com- 
manding the United States surveying expedition, and who visits your place to meet a part 
of his squadron, and also to survey and make a chart of your harbor. We are merchants 
on our way to your place, to make a temporary residence there, in order that we may re- 



456 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

ceive and supply a certain number of our ships that are daily expected there. The sup' 
plies we intend to furnish are necessary, and cannot be furnished by the Japanese, for they 
have them not, such as chains and anchors, pork and beef, sails, tar and cordage, and ship 
chandlery generally. We have our families with us, and shall require or want a house for 
them to live in, and also a build; ng to store our goods, for which we expect to pay a reason- 
able compensation or sum of money. We have been living here (at Simoda) for the past 
three months, awaiting the return of our vessel to take us to your place. When it returns, 
(and we expect it every day,) we shall leave this place for Hakodadi. On our ai rival there 
we trust your excellency, in the absence of hotels and inns, will have selected a suitable 
place for our families to reside, and also to store our goods. Suffer us, also, to ask of your 
honor to inform any of our ships which may arrive there before us, that we are at this 
place, and expect soon to be at Hakodadi." 

To this an answer was sent through Commander Rodgei's, the purport of which will be 
seen from the following communication, sent by that gentleman to Messrs. Reed and 
Dougherty ; 

" United States Ship Vincennes, Hakodadi, June 19, 1855. 

" Gentlemen : The governor of Hakodadi has replied to my application for permission 
for you to reside on shore, in accordance with the stipulations of the treaty of Kanagawa, 
that temporaiy, used in the treaty, means a short time — he thinks five or ten days, or, at 
the utmost, a few months. Unless I will consent to his definition, by asking for some short 
definite period, after which you may be sent away, he utterly refuses to permit you to sleep 
on shore a single night. I have replied that I dare not define temporary reside. ice in other 
than the usual manner. That if two governments, in their wisdom, preferred to give you 
permission to ' live temporarily ' in Hakodadi, I would not so circumscribe the meaning 
of the treaty. 

" I apprehend no difficult}' in obtaining permission for you to live for a few months in 
Hakodadi ; but I must say how long you may remain. After the time expires, the 
Japanese will consider that you cease to be temporary residents, and that you commence 
to live permanently. If permanent residence is not in the treaty, they will then have a 
right to send you away. I have been ofBcially informed of the fact, and, therefore, say to 
you officially, that the government of Japan will not suffer you to sleep a night on shore 
while I persist in claiming temporary residence to mean an indefinite period of time. 

" If the government of the United States decides that the treaty has been broken to your 
prejudice, I believe it will demand the proper redress for you. Should the government 
decide that the Japanese are right, your coming here was rash." 

Subsequently Messrs. Reed and Dougherty, with their families, left Simoda in their 
schooner, and proceeded to Hakodadi, arriving at that port eight days after the arrival of 
the Vincennes, and being the first American merchant vessel which had entered the port 
under the treaty. In fact the port had but just been opened. Mr. Doty states that they 
" were refased pennission to land, and ordered away." 

These seem to be substantially the facts connected with the voyage of the Foote, and 
it will be perceived, that the question involved in them is one of interpretation of the treaty 
merely. The conduct of the Japanese at Simoda certainly showed no unwillingness to 
comply with the treaty stipulations, for everything they did was performed by reason of 
the treaty, and, but for its existence, would not have been performed at all. The only 
question raised by them was whether the treaty, by " temporary residence," meant a resi- 
dence which might be made " permanent " by continuance for an indefinite period. As to 
Hakodadi, it must be remembered that the port is at a long distance from the capital on 
the island of Nippon, being, in truth, on another island, (Jesso), and ordinarily has but 
little communication with its more populous neighbor. The authorities at Hakodadi did 



CASE OF THE SCHOONER FOOTE 



457 



not refuse to let the Americans land — for under the treaty they had a right to do this for 
" temporary residence " — but asked them to name, before landing, some definite period 
which should be considered as being "temporary" in the sense of the treaty. They did, 
however, object to Americans coming on shore, Avith their wives and children, to live at 
Hakodadi as long as they pleased, just as a Japanese would live there ; they did object to 
their opening a warehouse and making a permanent depot of supply, and establishing a 
commercial house in Japan, as our merchants do in China ; and it will probably be con- 
ceded, after reading the conferences of negotiation which we have detailed, that they never 
meant to bind themselves by the treaty to the concession of such privileges. If they did 
not, and if, as at Simoda, they carried out all their stipulations touching the temporary 
sojourn and personal comfort of our countrymen, then it would seem they are not charge- 
able with any Avilful breach of faith. Some may think they misinterpret as to the extent 
of what they did concede ; but this, as Commander Rodgers veiy truly said, is a point 
which can be settled only by the two governments. One thing seems very certain from the 
records of the negotiation, that both Commodore Perry and the Japanese commissioners 
supposed that the treaty they were making was but " a beginning " of friendly relations, 
and a partial agreement for trade ; but neither party could, have believed they were fram- 
ing a general " commercial treaty," inasmuch as the Japanese had, in the beginning, 
expressly declined to enter into such a compact. It is imderstood, though we know not 
that the fact has been officially promulgated, that the interpretation of the treaty by our 
government agrees with that of the Japanese. 




Yedo and Simoda dogs presented to Commodore M. C. Perry by the Japanese commissioners. 



CHAPTER XXI 



Peparture of Commander Adams for the United States, with the treaty. — Yisits of the Commodore and 
officers on shore. — Imperturbable composure of Tenoske when charged with falsehood. — Call upon the 
Mayor ot Toku-hauia. — The ladies of his household. — Disgusting fashion of dyeing their teeth. — Us9 
of rouge. — Entertainment of the Commodore.— The Mayor's baby.— The common people very com- 
fortable. — Field labors shared by the women. — Straw great coat for rainy weather. — Paper umbrellas, 
— People not indisposed to intercourse with foreigners.— Respectful treatment of the female sex.— 
Japanese un-oriental in this respect.— Polygamy not practised.— Japanese women naturally good- 
looking. — Some strikingly handsome. — Girls have great vivacity, yet dignified and modest. — Social 
habits. — Visits. — Tea parties. — Squadron, after notice to the Japanese authorities, proceeds up the bay 
with some of the officials on board. — Powhatan and Mississippi go within sight of the capital.— Its 
immense size. — Sea front protected by high palisades.— Change of Japanese policy on the second visit 
to Tedo.— All show of military resistance studiously avoided.— The Commodore assures the Japanese 
officials that he will not anchor the steamers near the city, and, after a glance, at their request, returns. 
— Great joy of the officials thereat.— Preparations for departure. — Macedonian ordered to Peel island. — 
Southampton, Supply, Yandalia, and Lexington sent to Simoda. — Webster island. — Departure of tho 
Commodore for Simoda. — Harbor examined. —The town and adjacent country. — Shops and dwellings. 
— Public baths. — Food. — Mode of cultivation. — Buddhist temples. — Grave-yards and tombs. — Statues 
of Euddha. — Ofi"erings of flowers on the graves. — Epitaphs or inscriptions. — Charms for keeping away 
from the dead malignant demons. — A temple appropriated for the occupancy of our officers.— A Siu- 
too temple. — Mariner's temple. — Salubrity of Simoda. — Made an imperial city since the treaty. 

HE treaty having been signed and 
exchanged, the Commodore sent it, 
together with the necessary com- 
munications, to our government at 
Washington, under the especial 
charge of Commander H. A. Adams, 
commissioned as bearer of dispatch- 
es, who left in the Saratoga. This 
vessel got under way on the morning 
of the 4th of April, (1854,) and 
sailed for the Sandwich Islands, 
homeward bound. As she passed 
the squadron anchored at Kanaga- 
wa, the Saratoga saluted the flag of 
the Commodore with thirteen guns, 
which were returned from the Pow- 
hatan. The wind and weather pre- 
vented her, however, from getting 
out of the bay, and she was obliged 
at the " American anchorage" on the first night, and did not stand 
sp,;i until the next dav. 




to anchor 
out for 



'"'ill=' :?^#i- 



s#k ''^^.-aAV , 






^j^m- 




JATANESE AYOMAN AND DAIIGIITEK, SIMODA. 



VISITS ON SHORE IN JAPAN. 459 

The Japanese interpreters still visited the ships almost daily, and came 
on board the Powhatan on the day after the departure of the Saratoga, 
bringing with them a number of trifling presents of lacquered ware, porce- 
lain, and other articles for several of the subordinate ofiicers. On the fol- 
lowing morning, one of the small brass howitzers was landed from the Mis- 
sissippi as a present for the Emperor, as well as several boxes of tea brought 
from China, to be distributed as gifts to the interpreters and some of the 
Japanese dignitaries. Soon after, the Commodore went ashore, accompanied 
by several of his ofl&cers, for the purpose of taking a survey of the country. 
After having been entertained at the treaty house with the usual refresh- 
ments, the party set out on their w^alk, attended by Moryama, Yenoske, the 
chief interpreter, and several of the Japanese officials. A circuit embrac- 
ing some five miles was the extent of the field of observation, but this gave 
an opportunity of seeing a good deal of the country, several of the villages, 
and large numbers of the people. The early spring in that temperate lati- 
tude had now much advanced, and the weather, though never very e-cvere, 
the thermometer having varied during the stay of the squadron from 38° to 
64°, had become more warm and genial. The fields and terraced gardens 
were now carpeted with a fresh and tender verdure, and the trees with the full 
growth of renewed vegetation spread their shades of abounding foliage in the 
valleys and on the hill sides of the surrounding country. The camellias, with 
the immense growth of forty feet in height, which abound everywhere on the 
shores of the bay of Yedo, were in full bloom, with their magnificent red 
and white blossoms, which displayed a purity and richness of color, and a 
perfection of development, unrivalled elsewhere. As soon as a village or 
hamlet was approached, one of the Japanese attendants would hurry in ad- 
vance, and order the women and the rabble to keep out of the way. This 
did not suit the purposes of the Commodore, who was desirous of seeing as 
much as possible of the people, and learning all he could of their manners, 
habits, and customs. He accordingly spoke to the interpreter and took him 
to task, particularly for dispersing the women. Yenoske pretended that it 
was entirely for the benefit of the ladies themselves, as their modesty was 
such that it could not withstand the sight of a stranger. 

The Commodore did not believe a word of this interpretation, however 
adroit, and plainly told Yenoske so. The imputation, though it expressed 
a doubt of his truthfulness, did not ofi"end the interpreter in the least, but 
was rather taken as a compliment to his duplicity, which is one of the most 
cherished accomplishments of a Japanese official. Finding that the Com- 
modore was quite alive to the Japanese cunning, and was not to be balked 
of any of his privileges as a sight-seer, Yenoske promised that at the next 
town, where some refreshments had been ordered, the women should not be 
required to avoid the party. Accordingly, on entering this place, every one 
crowded out to see the strangers, men, women, and children. 



460 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

The Commodore and his officers were conducted to the home of the 
mayor or chief magistrate of the town. This dignitary, with great cordial- 
ity, met and welcomed them to the hospitalities of his establishment. The 
interior was quite unpretending, consisting of a large room, spread with soft 
mats, lighted with oiled paper windows, hung with rudely executed cartoons, 
and furnished with the usual red-colored benches. The wife and sister of 
the town official soon entered with refreshments, and smiled a timid welcome 
to the guests. These women were bare footed and bare legged, and were 
dressed very nearly alike, in dark colored robes, with much of the undress 
look of nighu gowns, secured by a broad band passing round the waist. 
Their figures were fat and dumpy, or at any rate appeared so, in their un- 
graceful drapery, but their faces were not wanting in expression, for which 
they were very much indebted to their glistening eyes, which were black, as well 
as their hair ; this latter was dressed at the top of the head, like that of the 
men, although not shaved in front. As their " ruby " lips parted in smiling 
graciously, they displayed a row of black teeth, set in horribly corroded 
gums. The married women of Japan enjoy the exclusive privilege of dye- 
ing their teeth, which is done with a mixture of vile ingredients, including 
filings of iron and sakee, termed Oha gur or Camri. This compound, as 
might be naturally inferred from its composition, is neither pleasantly per- 
fumed nor very wholesome. It is so corrosive, that in applying it to the 
teeth, it is necessary to protect the more delicate structure of the gums 
and lips, for the mere touch of the odious stuff to the flesh burns it at once 
into a purple gangrenous spot. In spite of the utmost care, the gums be- 
come tainted, and lose their ruddy color and vitality. "We should think 
that the practice was hardly conducive to connubial felicity, and it would be 
naturally inferred that all the kissing must be expended in the ecstasy of 
courtship. This compensation, however, is occasionally lost to the prospec- 
tive bridegroom, for it is not uncommon for some of the young ladies to in- 
augurate the habit of blacking the teeth upon the popping of the question. 

The effects of this disgusting habit are more apparent from another prac- 
tice which prevails with the Japanese, as with our would-be civilized dames, 
that of painting the lips with rouge. The ruddy glow of the mouth brings out 
in greater contrast the blackness of the gums and teeth. The rouge of the 
Japanese toilet, called hing, is made of the carthamus tinctorius, and is 
prepared in cups of porcelain. When a slight coat is applied, it gives a 
lively red color, but when it is put on thick, a deep violet hue, which is the 
most prized, is the result. * 

The worthy mayor had some refreshments prepared for his guests, consist- 
ing of tea, cakes, confectionary, and the never absent saki. With the latter 
was served a kind of hot waffle, made apparently of rice flour. The civic dig- 

* Thunbero-. 




JAPANESE "WOMEN. 



VISIT TO THE MAZOK. 461 

nitary himself was very active in dispensing those offerings, and he was ably 
seconded by his wife and sister, who always remained on their knees in pre- 
sence of the strangers. This awkward position of the women did not seem 
to interfere with their activity, for they kept running about very briskly 
with the silver saki kettle, the services of which, in consequence of the 
smallness of the cups, were in constant requisition. The two ladies were un- 
ceasingly courteous, and kept bowing their heads, like a bobbing toy man- 
darin. The smiles with which they perseveringly greeted the guests might 
have been better dispensed with, as every movement of their lips exposed 
their horrid black teeth and decayed gums. The mayoress was uncom- 
monly polite, and was good natured enough to bring in her baby, which her 
euests felt bound to make the most of, though its dirty face and general un- 
tidy appearance made it quite a painful effort to bestow the necessary ca- 
resses. A bit of confectionary was presented to the infant, when it was di- 
rected to bow its shaven head, which it did with a degree of precocious po- 
liteness that called forth the greatest apparent pride and admiration on the 
part of its mother and all the ladies present. 

On preparing to depart, the Commodore proposed the health, in a cup 
of saki, of the whole household, which brought into the room from a neigh- 
boring apartment, the mayor's mother. She was an ancient dame, and as 
soon as she came in she squatted herself in one corner, and bowed her 
thanks for the compliments paid to the family, of which she was the oldest 
member. 

As the Japanese officials no longer interfered with the curiosity of the 
people, there was a good opportunity of observing them, though hurriedly, 
as the Commodore and his party were forced to return early to the ships. 
The people, in the small towns, appeared to be divided into three principal 
classes, — the officials, the traders, and laborers. The inferior people, al- 
most without exception, seemed thriving and contented, and not overworked. 
There were signs of poverty, but no evidence of public beggary. The wo- 
men, in com»ion with many in various parts of over-populated Europe, 
were frequently seen engaged in the field labors, showing the general in- 
dustry and the necessity of keeping every hand busy in the populous Em- 
pire. The lowest classes even were comfortably clad, being dressed in 
coarse cotton garments, of the same form, though shorter than those of 
their superiors, being a loose robe, just covering the hips. They were, for 
the most part, bareheaded and barefooted. The women were dressed very 
much like the men, although their heads were not shaved like those of the 
males, and their long hair was drawn up and fastened upon the top, in a 
knot, or under a pad. The costume of the upper classes and the dignitaries 
has been already described. In rainy weather, the Japanese wear a cover- 
ing made of straw, wliich being fastened together at the top, is suspended 
from the neck, and falls over the shoulders and person like a thatched roof. 



462 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

Some of the higher classes cover their robes with an oiled paper cloak, 
which is impermeable to the wet. The umbrella, like that of the Chinese, 
is almost a constant companion, and serves both to shade from the rays of 
the sun, and keep off the effects of a shower. The men of all classes were 
exceedingly courteous, and although inquisitive about the strangers, never be- 
came offensively intrusive. The lower people were evidently in great dread 
of their superiors, and were more reserved in their presence, than they 
would have been if they had been left to their natural instincts. The rigid 
exclusiveness in regard to foreigners is a law merely enacted by the govern- 
ment from motives of policy, and not a sentiment of the Japanese people. 
Their habits are social among themselves, and they frequently intermingle 
in friendly intercourse. There is one feature in the society of Japan, by 
which the superiority of the people, to all other oriental nations, is clearly 
manifest. Woman is recognized as a companion, and not merely treated 
as a slave. Her position is certainly not as elevated as in those countries 
under the influence of the Christian dispensation, but the mother, wife, and 
daughter of Japan, are neither the chattels and household drudges of China, 
nor the purchased objects of the capricious lust of the harems of Turkey. 
The fact of the non-existence of polygamy, is a distinctive feature, which 
pre-eminently characterizes the Japanese, as the most moral and refined of 
all eastern nations. The absence of this degrading practice shows itself, 
not only in the superior character of the women, but in the natural conse- 
quence of the greater prevalence of the domestic virtues. 

The Japanese women, always excepting the disgusting black teeth of 
those who are married, are not ill-looking. The young girls are well formed 
and rather pretty, and have much of that vivacity and self-reliance in 
manners, which come from a consciousness of dignity, derived from the 
comparatively high regard in which they are held. In the ordinary mutual 
intercourse of friends and families the women have their share, and rounds 
of visiting and tea parties are kept up as briskly in Japan as in the United 
States. The attitude assumed by the women who prostrated themselves iu 
the presence of the Commodore and his party, should be considered rather 
as a mark of their reverence for the strangers than as an evidence of their 
subordination. That in the large towns and cities of Japan there is great 
licentiousness, it is reasonable to suppose, for such seems, unhappily, a uni- 
versal law in all great communities ; but it must be said to the credit of the 
Japanese women, that during all the time of the presence of the squadron in 
the bay of Yedo, there was none of the usual indication of wantonness and 
license on the part of the female sex in their occasional relations with the 
miscellaneous ships' people. 

On the 9th of April, notwithstanding a note received from the commis- 
sioners, in which they urgently remonstrated against the movement, the Com- 
modore sent word that he would on the following day, approach with the 




lioADSIDE OHAPET,. YOKUHAMA. 




JAPANESE WOMEN, SIMODA. 



ASCENT TOWARD YEDO. 463 

stoamers as near to Yedo as the deptli of water would allow. Accordingly, 
on the next morning, the whole squadron got under way from the anchorage 
at Kanagawa, and moved up the bay. The Japanese interpreters came on 
board the Powhatan just as she started, and were evidently in great dismay. 
They earnestly begged the Commodore to desist from his purpose, urging 
that the safety of the Empire, perhaps, and certainly that of their own 
lives, depended upon the issue. Not being able to dissuade the Commodore, 
the Japanese remained on board to mark his movements. The steamers 
Powhatan and Mississippi advanced beyond the other vessels and doubled 
the point near Sinagawa, the southern suburb of the capital, and came so 
close to the far-famed Yedo that, if it had not been, unfortunately, for a fog, 
so common on that coast, the capital would have been distinctly visible. The 
general outline of the city could, however, be made out, showing an im- 
mense and thickly crowded number of houses and buildings covering a large 
surface. Though there was every indication of the great size of the town, 
there was a general similarity in the low peaked houses and the terraced 
gardens to the other populous settlements on the bay. Upon the heights 
and projecting points commanding the capital there were the usual forts, 
with canvas outworks, and other fortified places. The Buddhist temples, 
however, which are generally the highest and most conspicuous buildings in 
these Japanese towns, may possibly, from the prevailing haze which con- 
fined the view, have been mistaken for fortifications. 

Along the whole sea front of the city there appeared to be a row of high 
palisades, with occasional openings for the admission of boats or small junks. 
Whether these were arranged to protect the landing places from the washing 
of the sea, or to defend the city from an attack, it was impossible to decide. 
It was quite probable, however, that they had been put up in consequence 
of the visit of the squadron, to prevent the approach of the armed boats in 
case of an attempt on the part of the Americans to land by force. One 
thing, however, seems quite certain, that the city of Yedo can be destroyed 
by a few steamers of very light draught of water and with guns of the 
heaviest calibre. 

Considerable preparation had evidently been made at first by the Japa- 
nese to impress the Americans with a great idea of their military power. 
New works of defence were commenced, and large numbers of troops para- 
ded ostentatiously within sight of the squadron, during the first visit to 
Yedo bay, and it is probable that it had been seriously discussed in the 
Japanese councils whether or not to resist by force all intercourse with the 
Americans. On the second visit there was evidently a change of policy, 
and a studious avoidance of all show of military resistance. An extensive 
fortified work that had been begun in the neighborhood of Yedo was discon- 
tinued, and a fire which destroyed it and the large wooden shed which had 
been built for the accommodation of the rumcrous workmen, was suspected to 



464 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

have been applied at the instigation of the authorities, in order to efface 
every vestige of an erection, which might provoke by its show of hostility 
an unfriendly feeling on the part of the formidable visitors. 

In consequence of the strong ebb tide, the boats which were pulling 
ahead, engaged in sounding the channel towards the city, made but little 
headway, and the steamers with difficulty stemming the current could not be 
kept under safe steerage. The sailing ships had already anchored some 
distance astern. The Commodore having promised the commissioners, in 
order to allay their apprehensions, that he would not anchor the steamers 
near the capital, but only advance them sufficiently to take a glance at it, 
felt himself bound to return. The men in the boats were exhausted with 
hard pulling, and as it was not safe to keep the steamers where they were 
without dropping anchor, the surveying party were accordingly summoned 
back, and the ship's head pointed down the bay again. The fears of the 
commissioners, as they stated, and as the interpreters who were present never 
failed to continue to suggest, were founded upon the supposition that if 
the squadron should anchor near to, and in full view of the capital, its im- 
mense populace would become greatly excited. This, they declared, might 
result in the most disastrous consequences ; and though they did not partic- 
ularly name the Emperor and his household, they evidently felt deeply con- 
cerned about their safety. In consequence, therefore, of the very courteous 
and friendly conduct of the princes and their coadjutors, and trusting to 
their asseverations that they would be held personally responsible for any 
catastrophe that might ensue from anchoring the steamers off the city and 
saluting the palace, as was the original intention, the Commodore deter- 
mined to yield to their remonstrances. A direct appeal was also made by 
the commissioners to the generosity of the Commodore in the statement that 
having, in the treaty, conceded more than had been originally designed, and 
thus shown their confidence and friendship, they hoped the Commodore would 
not subject them to a possible injury and probable death. The Commodore 
yielded at once. He thought it was better not to bring about an issue that 
might endanger the very friendly position in which he had placed himself in 
relation to the Japanese. It would have been a source of endless regret, 
too, if to gratify a profitless curiosity misfortune should have been brought 
upon the commissioners, whose friendly conduct deserved every kind return 
that might be given in consonance with duty. The squadron, therefore, now 
returned and anchored at the " American anchorage." The anxiety of the 
Japanese interpreters, who remained on board during the whole trip, was 
thus much relieved, and they participated with the greatest conviviality in 
a collation which was spread for their entertainment in the Commodore's 
cabin. 

There being no further reason for the detention of the squadron in the 
upper bay of Yedo, the Commodore prepared to depart. He accordingly 



ARRIVAL A.T SIMODA. 465 

dispatched in advance the Macedonian for Peel island, on the 11th of 
April; the ships Southampton and Supply on the fourteenth, and the Van- 
dalia and Lexington on the sixteenth, for Simoda. During the two days 
preceding his own departure, the Commodore took the opportunity of in- 
specting the island near the "American anchorage," which had been called' 
by him Webster, and the neighboring shores. The beauty of the country, 
now developed in all its picturesque charmt of rich verdure, shaded groves, 
fertile fields, and cultivated gardens, was a source of never-ending pleasure, 
and as the time approached for taking leave of the attractive shores of the 
upper bay of Yedo, there was no little feeling of regret. The scenery in 
the neighborhood of the American anchorage was now very familiar to all 
on board ship, and had a double interest, as well that of association from 
long residence as from its intrinsic beauties. Webster island is a charn.ing 
spot, shaded with the thickest groves of green growth, and varied with hill 
and dale, wild mountain top and cultivated slope. Between it and its 
neighboring isle, called by the surveyors Perry, after the Commodore, is a 
little bay, upon the inland shores of which there is a considerable quarry of 
stone that the Japanese have extensively worked. Large blocks were lying 
about, and the rocky precipices of the shore were hewn into good walls of a 
smooth surface, from which the masses of stone had been cut with a regular- 
ity that showed much skill. There were other evidences also of the busy 
industry of the Japanese ; there were various boat-building yards, with 
junks dragged ashore for repairs, with workmen actively at work over their 
hulls, and various docks and landing-places constructed of stone, and showing 
the careful industry and no little skill of the people. 

At four o'clock in the morning of the 18th of April, the Commodore 
finally got under way for Simoda, in the Powhatan, accompanied by the 
Mississippi, and anchored in that port at ten minutes past three in the after- 
noon of the same day. The Mississippi dropped her anchor off the mouth 
of the harbor, but soon after took her position within, in the neighborhood 
of the Powhatan. The Vandalia, Southampton, Supply, and Lexington, 
were found anchored there. The Commodore had purposely dispatched the 
several ships in succession, in order to enable those which arrived first, time 
for examining the harbor and selecting convenient anchoring places for their 
consorts which were to follow. This turned out to be a well-timed precau- 
tion, as the Southampton, in warping into the inner harbor, came upon a 
rock lying in the middle of the channel, with only twelve feet of water 
upon it at low water, a danger which had escaped the hasty examination of 
the surveyors. If it had not been for this timely discovery, one or both the 
steamers would have probably struck upon the rock, as it lies directly in the 
way, and is all the more dangerous from its being only thirty feet in diame- 
ter, and cone-like in shape. Lieutenant Commandant Boyle had very pru- 
dently placed a buoy upon it, which enabled the steamers to avoid the dan- 
30 



466 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

ger, and pass in without inconvenience, althougli the channel at that point 
is only six hundred yards wide. Both steamers found sufficient room to 
moor without interfering with the Southampton and Supply, already in the 
inner harbor. The Lexington subsequently came in also and anchored, but 
Captain Pope preferred a position further out for his ship, the Yandalia. 

There can be no better harbor than that of Simoda for a limited num- 
ber of vessels ; " when its contiguity to the sea, its easy and safe approach, 
its convenience of ingress and egress, are considered, I do not see," says 
Commodore Perry, " how a more desirable port could have been selected 
to answer all the purposes for which it is wanted." 

The town of Simoda, or Shimoda, is on the island of Nippon near the 
mouth of the lower bay or gulf of Yedo ; latitude 34° 39^ 49^^ north ; 
longitude 138° 57^ 50^^ east. It is within the prefecture of Kamo, one of 
the eight into which Idzu is divided, and occupies the southern termination 
of that principality. The town is situated at the western end of the harbor, 
on a plain at the opening of a fertile valley. Its name is probably derived 
from its low position, Simoda meaning Low field. Through the valley a 
small stream, called Inodzu-Gawa, flows, and empties at the town into the har- 
bor. The river is navigable for the flat-bottomed boats, which are used by 
the inhabitants for transporting stone, timber, grain, and other produce. 

The country surrounding the town is extremely picturesque and varied. 
Undulating hills, covered with trees and verdure, rise from the water's edge 
and extend back into the lofty mountains, rock-ribbed and bare. 

Valleys divide the mountain ranges, with their richly cultivated fields 
and gardens, stretching up to the very summit of the hill sides. Streams 
of water, shaded with groves, wind through the level bottoms, and beautify 
and enrich the land. The snow-capped Fusi is visible in the distance, point- 
ing its cone-like summit high into the clouds, and far above the elevation of 
the blue mountains which surround it. On entering the harbor, the town, 
with its groups of low houses, does not present a very imposing appearance, 
but, with its background of hills, wooded with spreading pines and yew 
trees, and the verdant valleys which open between them, it has an air of 
sheltered repose, and an appearance of secluded rusticity, which are quite 
attractive. 

Simoda is said to be the largest town in the principality of Idzu, and was 
at one time a mart of considerable importance. It was founded centuries 
ago, and some two hundred years since, was the port of entry for vessels 
bound to the capital ; but Uraga, further up the bay, having succeeded to 
this important function, Simoda has declined, and become comparatively a 
poverty stricken place. There is not much appearance of commercial activ- 
ity in the port, but there still is some inconsiderable business carried on 
through it, between the interior of the country and various places on the 
Japanese coast. In front of the town there is a depot for small junks and 



S I M D A . 467 

boats, artificially constructed hj means of dykes and a breakwater. This 
is connected with the river, which flows through the valley that extends into 
the interior, and the boats are thus enabled when the tide, which rises about 
five feet, is at its height, to float in, and sail up the stream. Rude docks 
exist for building and launching vessels, and these show some evidence of 
activity in the number of junks, about which there are always nmnerous 
laborers, more or less busy at work, constructing and repairing. Near these 
docks, picturesquely bordered by a row of stately pine trees, in the shade of 
which stands a small shrine, there is a landing place, which, however, is not 
very easily reached by ships' boats when the tide is low. 

The town of Simoda is compactly built, and regularly laid out. The 
streets intersect each other at right angles, and most of them are guarded 
by light wooden gates, with the names of the streets marked upon their hol- 
low posts, within which are the stations of the watchmen. Through the 
town a small stream passes, the sides of which are walled with stone, and 
across it are thrown four small wooden bridges which connect the opposite 
banks. The streets are about twenty feet in width, and are partly macad- 
amized and partly paved. Simoda shows an advanced state of civilization, 
much beyond our own boasted progress in the attention of its constructors 
to the cleanliness and healthfulness of the place. There are not only 
gutters, but sewers, which drain the refuse water and filth directly into the 
sea or the small stream which divides the town. 

The shops and dwelling houses are but slightly built, many of them being 
merely thatched huts. A few of the houses of the better classes are of 
stone, but most are constructed of a framework of bamboo or laths, and 
then covered with a tenacious mud. This latter, when dry, is again covered 
with a coat of plaster, which is either painted or becomes black by exposure. 
Mouldings are afterwards arranged in diagonal lines over the surface of the 
building, and these being painted white, and contrasting with the dark 
ground behind, give the houses a curious pie-bald look. The roofs are often 
of tiles colored alternately black and white, and their eaves extend low 
down in front of the walls, and protect the inmates from the sun, and the 
oiled paper windows from the effects of the rain. On the tops of some of 
the houses wires are stretched in various directions, to keep off the crows, it 
is said ; but whether on account of their being birds of ill omen, or only in 
consequence of their bad habits, was not very apparent. These houses have 
no chimneys, and there being occasional fires for cooking and other purposes, 
the smoke is left to force its way through the various crannies and cracks 
which may chance to exist, unless, as is sometimes the case, there are certain 
holes in the upper part of the walls prudently left for the purpose. The 
buildings are generally but a single story in height, though many of the 
houses and shops have attics for the storage of goods and refuse articles. 

Some of the residences stand back from the front of the streets, with 



468 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

yards before them, althougli generally the latter are in the rear ; and are 
variously appropriated, some for kitchen gardens, and others for pleasure 
grounds, with flowering shrubs, ponds for gold fish, and other ornamental 
appliances. There are a few buildings fronted with stone, while the main 
structure is of dried mud or adobe, which are used for the storage of valu- 
able goods, as they are supposed to be better protected against fire. The 
fronts of the shops and houses have movable shutters, which at night are 
fastened to the posts which support the projecting roofs. Behind these are 
sliding panels of oiled paper, which are closed when privacy is sought, and 
opened for the purpose of seeing in the houses what may be passing, or dis- 
playing the goods in the inside of the shops. In lieu of the paper windows 
there are occasional lattices of bamboo. The title of the shop is displayed 
over the door or window, generally in some fanciful device, significant of the 
kind of business carried on. There are but few signs distinctly recording the 
trade or occupation, although there was one shop which bore on its front, in 
the Dutch language, the name in full of a Dutch nostrum, which seemed to 
be a popular remedy in Japan, for the same was observed in Kanagawa. 
The finer goods were generally kept secluded from view in boxes and draw- 
ers, and seemed to be of a kind which indicated no great affluence on the 
part of the community. 

The internal arrangement of the houses and shops of Simoda is simple 
and uniform, though somewhat modified according to the position and busi- 
ness of the inmates. The door is on the right or left side, and is protected 
by the overhanging roof, under which the coarser goods are sheltered, and 
the customers when driving a bargain. From the front door a pathway 
leads directly to the rear, where there are various dwellings and out-houses, 
among which there is often the shrine for private worship. In the shops 
this passage way is crowded with baskets, stands, and trays, laden with vari- 
ous merchandise ; and the walls on either side are provided with shelves, 
upon which goods are also heaped. In the best establishments articles for 
sale are seldom displayed beyond turning the opened ends of the boxes 
which contain them towards the street. 

In the interior of the houses there is a large framework, raised two feet 
above the ground. It is spread with stuffed mats, and is divided into seve- 
ral compartments by means of sliding panels. This house within a house 
may be applied to all the various purposes of trading, eating, sleeping, and 
receiving company, according to the pleasure or necessities of the proprie- 
tors. This cage or platform is used as the workshop by some of the various 
handicraftsmen, as, for example, the carpenters and lacquer varnishers ; the 
blacksmiths and stonecutters, however, perform their heavier work upon the 
ground. 

The houses intended for lodgers are generally clean, and neatly spread 
with the usual soft and thick mat , which serve the double purpose of 



S I M D A . 469 

seats by day and beds by nigbt. The names of the guests are recorded as 
with us, but somewhat more publicly, as they are affixed to the door posts 
on the street. The aristocratic gentry have their coats of arms emblaz- 
oned in full and displayed upon wide banners, stretched in front of their 
stopping places. The interiors of these hotels are by no means very mag- 
nificent in appearance or complete in appointment. The entire absence of 
tables, chairs, sofas, lamps, and other essentials to comfort, interfere very 
seriously with a guest taking his ease at his Japanese inn. Moreover, the 
want of pictures, looking-glasses, and olher pleasing appeals to the, eye, 
gives to the establishment a very naked, cold look to a traveller who has a 
vivid recolletion of the warm snugness of an English inn, or the luxurious 
completeness of an American hotel. 

The whole number of houses in Simoda is estimated at about a thou- 
sand, and the inhabitants are supposed to amount to nearly seven thousand, 
one-fifth of whom are shopkeepers and artisans. There are in the town, as 
elsewhere in Japan, a disproportionate amount of officials, soldiers, and 
retainers, of the various princes and dignitaries, who add nothing to the 
productive resources of the country, but are great consumers of the results 
of the labor of the lower classes, who are forced to do much work and are 
allowed to enjoy but little of the profit. The people have, notwithstanding, 
a tolerably thriving appearance, and it is seldom that a beggar is seen. The 
streets, with the exception of a few shops which do but little business, show 
no signs of trading activity. There is no public market place, and all the 
daily transactions of buying and selling are conducted so privately and quiet- 
ly, that, to a passing stranger, Simoda would appear as a place singularly 
devoid of any regard to the concerns of this world. 

The people have all the characteristic courtesy and reserved but pleas- 
ing manners of the Japanese. A scene at one of the public baths, where 
the sexes mingled indiscriminately, unconscious of their nudity, was not 
calculated to impress the Americans with a very favorable opinion of the 
morals of the inhabitants. This may not be a universal practice through- 
out Japan, and indeed is said by the Japanese near us not to be ; but the 
Japanese people of the inferior ranks are undoubtedly, notwithstanding their 
moral superiority to most oriental nations, a lewd people. Apart from the 
bathing scenes, there was enough in the popular literature, with its obscene 
pictorial illustrations, to prove a licentiousness of taste and practice among 
a certain class of the population, that was not only disgustingly intrusive, 
but disgracefully indicative of foul corruption. 

The chief diet of the inhabitants of Simoda consists of fish and vegeta- 
ble food. There are poultry, chickens, geese and ducks, and some few cat- 
tle, but the latter are used only for beasts of burden, and their flesh is never 
eaten. Rice, wheat, barley, and sweet potatoes are the chief articles raised 
in and about Simoda, although Irish potatoes, buckwheat, Indian corn, taro. 



470 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

beans, cabbages, cresses, and egg plants are produced to some extent. The 
wbeat and barley are reaped in May, and the rice, which is first sown 
and then transpla.nted, as in Lew Chew, is ready for the latter operation in 
the middle of June, and these crops succeed each other year after year. 
During the winter, part of the rice fields, that which lies low, is left fallow, 
while the terraces are turned into wheat fields. In preparing the fields for 
the reception of the young shoots of rice, they are overflowed with water, 
and then reduced by ploughing and harrowing into a soft well mixed mud. 
Subsequently, a substratum of grass and small bushes is trodden down be- 
low the surface by the feet. The laborer putting on a couple of broad 
pieces of wood, like a pair of snow shoes, goes tramping over the grass and 
bushes, laboring until they all disappear below the surface of the mud. 
This operation over, the small plants are transferred from the plot where 
they have been sown to the fields, where they are allowed to remain until 
maturity. The rice crop is ready for harvesting in the latter part of Septem- 
ber or early in the ensuing month. Oxen and horses are occasionally used 
in agricultural operations, but the labor is mostly performed by hand. 

Whatever may be the moral character of the inhabitants of Simoda, it 
might be supposed, from the great number of places of worship, that they 
are a highly devotional people. Though the peculiar religions of the Japa- 
nese seem to be sustained in a flourishing condition, the people are rather 
remarkable for their toleration of all kinds of worship, except that of the 
Christian, for which, in consequence of the political intrigues of the Roman 
Catholic priesthood, centuries ago, they have an intense hatred, carefully 
inculcated by those in authority, who keep alive the traditional enmity en- 
gendered at the epoch when the Portuguese were expelled the Empire. 
The Buddhist and Sintoo worships are those most prevalent in Japan, and 
the lower classes are strict but formal devotees, while it is suspected that 
the higher and better educated are indifferent to all religions, and entertain 
various speculative opinions, or seek refuge in a broad skepticism. 

There are no less than nine Buddhist temples, one large Ilia^ or Sintoo 
temple, and a great number of smaller shrines. Those devoted to the wor- 
ship of Buddha have strange fanciful titles : the largest is called Bio-shen- 
zhi, or Buddha's obedient monastery; and there are Dai-an-zhi, or great 
peace monastery ; the Hon-gaku-zhi, or source of knowledge monastery ; 
the Too-den-zhi, or rice field monastery; the Fuku-zhen-zhi, or fountain of 
happiness monastery ; the Chio-raku-zhi, or continual joy monastery ; the 
Bi-gen-zhi, or source of reason monastery ; and lastly, the Chio-me-zhi, or 
long life monastery. Twenty-five priests and a few acolytes are attached 
to these temples, and are supported by fees bestowed by devotees for burial 
services, and the various offices peculiar to Buddhism. The buildings are 
of wood, and although generally kept in tolerable repair, show the effects 
of weather upon the unpainted surface. The roofs are tiled, and project, as 



TEMPLES AT SIMODA. 471 

in tlie houses, "beyond the walls. The posts which support the superstruc- 
ture are, together with the rest of the wood work, covered with the famous 
Japanese lacquer. The floors, which are raised four or five feet above the 
ground, are neatly covered with matting. At the door of the main apart- 
ment there is a drum on the left and a bell on the right, the former of which 
is beaten, and the latter tingled, at the commencement of worship, to awa- 
ken the attention of the idols to the prayers of the devout. Between the 
door and the central shrine there are several low lecterns, or reading desks, 
near each of which there is conveniently placed a piece of wood carved in 
the shape of a fish, which is used to beat time during the chanting, which 
forms an important part of the religious services. 

The shrine, in which are arranged the ancestral tablets, in niches, seems 
to be an object of particular attention, for it was kept always in perfect order, 
and the monuments and idols were not allowed to sufiier from want of repair 
or of a decent regard to cleanliness. The sculpture of the various images 
was no better in art or more imposing in appearance than the ordinary fig- 
ures of Joss in the Chinese temples. An occasional picture is hung up as a 
votive ofi"ering upon the walls, representing, rather rudely, some event in 
the life of the worshipper, in the course of which he had reason, as he pi- 
ously believed, to be grateful for the services of Buddha or some of his 
numerous progeny of subordinate deities. Certain boxes, distributed about 
the temple, remind the Christian visitor of the duties of charity, and he 
thinks with a pious recollection of the claims of the poor, which are sug- 
gested by a practice similar to that in the old churches of his own faith. 
His charitable feelings, however, are suddenly repelled when he learns the 
object of the boxes, for the label upon them reads : " For feeding hungry 
demons," and the promise which follows that, "his merit will be consolidated," 
is hardly inducement enough to contribute towards the necessities of the 
devil, or any of his voracious legion. In front of some of the temples pillars 
are found, upon which are inscribed an edict forbidding any liquors or meats 
to be caiTied within the sacred precincts. 

Connected with each monastery is a grave-yard, in which there is a 
great variety of monuments and tombstones. They are generally made of 
a greenstone found in the neighborhood of Simoda, and have the various 
forms of simple slabs, raised tombs, and obelisks. Among the monuments 
are distributed statues of Buddha, varying in size from the largeness of life 
to that of only a foot or less. They are represented in various attitudes, 
some erect and others in a sitting posture, while many are carved in relief 
upon slabs of stone, where Buddha is seen issuing from an opening shell, and 
is figured sometimes with his hands clasped, or holding a lotus flower, a fly- 
trap, or some other symbol. A pleasant feature in the aspect of the other- 
wise gloomy burial places, disfigured by the coarse and grotesque art of a 
corrupt superstition, is the abundance of flowers which are plentifully dis- 



472 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

tributed about. These are placed, freshly culled, from day to day, in cups 
and troughs of water, which are deposited before the tombs and the idols. 
Offerings of other kinds are also frequently found near the various statues 
of Buddha and his kindred deities. 

The tombs and monuments, as with us, are inscribed with epitaphs ; but 
such is the moisture of the climate, that they are soon covered with moss 
and rendered illegible. Some of the fresher ones, however, could be deci- 
phered, and it was observed that, as in our own practice, the rank, merits, 
and date of death of deceased, were usually recorded. That the good deeds 
of the departed may live after them, there is often a summary of their mer- 
itorious works during life, among which we read that some have recited one 
thousand, two thousand, and even three thousand volumes of the canonical 
books, an amount of pious performance which entitles them, says the eulo- 
gistic Japanese epitaphs, to heavenly felicity. An invocation, " Oh, wonder- 
ful Buddha ! " generally prefaces the inscriptions. In the grave-yard of the 
Bio-shen-zhi, there is a sort of pantomimic record of the deceased, where, 
in a fenced enclosure of bamboo, there is a sepulchre of two personages of 
rank. Their statues and those of their families and servants are represent- 
ed as if holding an audience, which indicates the rank of the deceased. 

Near the recent graves and tombs narrow boards or wooden posts are 
placed, on which extracts from the canonical books are written, exhorting 
the living to add to their stock of good works by diligently repeating the 
pages of those excellent volumes, or vicariously performing that necessary 
duty, by getting the priests to do it for them, and not neglecting to pay the 
customary charges. The canonical books supply many of the other inscrip- 
tions with various quotations, aptly chosen to extol the felicity of the depart- 
ed, or to inculcate the shortness of life and the vanity of this world ; one of 
the latter, when translated, read thus : 

" What permanency is there to the glory of the world ? 
It goes from the sight like hoar-frost hefore the sun. 
If men wish to enter the joys of heavenly light 
Let them smell a little of the fragrance of Buddha's canons." 

Another was this : " Whoever wishes to have his merit reach even to the 
abode of the demons, let him with us, and all living, become perfect in the 
doctrine." And again: " The wise will make our halls illustrious and the 
monuments endure for long ages." To them all was added a significant 
hint, that these hopes and aspirations were to be secured in their objects by 
the prompt payment of the contributions levied on the living. At Yoku- 
hama, in addition to these various Ja.panese inscriptions, there were boards 
upon which were written charms in the Thibetan or complicated Chinese char- 
acters, the purport of which the writers themselves do not profess to under- 



SIMODA TEMPLES AND SHRINES. 473 

stand, but all appeared to believe they were effectual in warding off malig- 
nant demons from disturbing the dead. 

The nine Buddhist temples are all situated in the suburbs, back of the 
town ; and on the acclivities or summits of the hills, which bound them in 
the rear, there are shrines and pavilions erected within groves of trees, which 
are approached by flights of stone steps. In the interior of these pavilions 
and shrines are rude images, or merely inscriptions, dedicated to the tutelary 
deities of the spot. Their purpose is to afford facility to those living near, 
or to the passer by, of appeasing and imploring the good and evil spirits 
which are supposed to frequent the neighborhood. At the door and before 
the shrines there are always bits of paper, some rags, copper cash, bouquets 
of flowers and other articles, which have been placed there as propitiatory 
offerings by different devotees. ^ 

The Rio-shen-zhi, the largest of the nine Buddhist temples, was set apart 
by the government authorities for the temporary use of the Commodore dur- 
ing the sta}'- of the squadron. It is situated on the south side of the town, 
and has quite a picturesque aspect, with a precipitous rock of over a hundred 
feet on one side, and a burial ground on the other, extending up the accliv- 
ity of a thickly wooded hiU. Connected with the temple is a kitchen garden 
which supplies the priests with vegetables, and pleasure grounds with beds of 
flowers, tanks containing gold fish, and various plants and trees. A small 
bridge, neatly constructed, leads from the gardens to a flight of steps, by 
which the hill in the rear is ascended. Adjoining the ecclesiastical part of the 
establishment there is a room used for lodgers, which is so constructed with 
sliding doors that it may be separated into several rooms for the accommo- 
dation of many persons, or left as one large apartment. The officers of the 
squadron were comfortably provided for elsewhere, and with an abundant 
supply of mats to sleep upon, good wholesome rice and vegetables to eat, 
plenty of attendants, and everything clean, there was very little reason for 
complaint on the score of the material necessities of life. 

The large Mia, or Sintoo temple, is situated in the same part of the 
town as the Buddhist establishments. A wide street, the broadest in Simo- 
da, leads to an avenue of fir and juniper trees, the vista through which is 
closed by the temple. As the visitor approaches he comes to a bridge which 
is thrown over an artificial fish pond, which breaks the continuity of the 
street, and as he enters the shaded avenue he passes over another miniature 
bridge beautifully constructed of finely carved greenstone. Two grim stat- 
ues of armed men, whose fierce aspect is heightened by the covering of moss 
and lichen which, with their irregular growth, roughen the rude sculpture, 
and, by their mottled color, gi > icu increased savageness to its look, stand, 
one on either side, as guardians vf the temple. Several pairs of caudelabras 
in stone are arranged near by, towards the termination of the avenue, and on 
their right is a square belfry of open woodwork resting upon a high founda- 



474 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

tion of masonry. From the roof swings a beam, which is used to strike the 
bell which hangs within. To the left is a low shed covering six small stone 
images of deified heroes, the flowers and coins lying before which indicate 
the worship of devotees. As the visitor advances he passes under a pavilion 
built over the pathway, and finds within various ofi"erings, some paintings, 
coarsely executed, of junks and shipwrecks, a bow or two, and scores of 
queues, cut ofi" by shipwrecked sailors, and hung up as testimonials of grati- 
tude for the preservation of their lives. 

Leaving the pavilion the visitor reaches a flight of stone steps beyond, 
which lead to the principal hall, which is elevated some six feet above the 
ground. Two stone lions, whose small heads and enormous ungainly bodies 
show that the artist was equally unacquainted with the grace of art and the 
truth of nature, guard the entrance. The porch is sustained by posts which 
are carved with grotesque representations of tigers and elephants' heads, and 
other adornments, showing neither skill of hand nor beauty of design. 
The temple itself is constructed of wood with a covering of thatch. The 
interior is not, like the Buddhist monasteries, supplied with sliding panels, 
but contains two compartments — the main hall and an inner shrine, parti- 
tioned by a latticed bamboo screen. Within the latter is the image of 
Hachiman, the deified hero to whom the temple is dedicated. Standing in a 
niche, on either side, is the figure of an attendant dressed in ancient Japa- 
nese official costume, armed with a bow, as if awaiting the orders, as in life, 
of their superior. Before the god-like Hachiman there is the usual variety 
of devotional offerings. A large number of paintings of no great artistic 
skill, a frame containing the representation of a pagoda constructed of cop- 
per cash, a sword, bow and arrows, and a subscription list of at least thirty 
feet in length, hung from the walls of the shrine. This gigantic subscription 
list contains the names and donation of the contributors towards the expen- 
ses of the temple services. The Japanese priests find, we suppose, as we 
fear it is sometimes found elsewhere, that an imposing display of the muni- 
ficence of their benefactors is a useful reminder of duty to the benevolent, 
and a great encouragement of generosity. The idol of Hachiman is honored 
annually with a festival, termed matzouri, which occurs on the fifteenth day 
of the eighth month, when the subscribers are expected to pay up the amount 
of their contributions, for which their names are down upon the enormous 
list. Before the image there is a box provided for the alms of those who are 
too modest to publish their names, or whose donations are too small to make 
much of a figure on paper. 

As the Japanese structures are unpainted, the wood work soon turns 
brown and decays, requiring frequent repair and removal. There is always 
a sort of guardian or superintendent living on the premises, whose duty it is 
to keep in order the temple and grounds, and most of them are creditable 
evidences of the care of the overseers. There are, however, some of these 



mariner's templEj simoda. 475 

establisliments which show either a careless superintendence or a low state 
of the exchequer, for several show signs of ruin and neglect. 

In addition to the one great Sintoo temple, there are various smaller 
shrines of the same faith dedicated to certain deified heroes, whose services 
are called into requisition by those of some particular occupation, or on the 
occasion of a special emergency. The sites of these humbler places of wor- 
ship have been picturesquely selected on the acclivities, or the summits of 
the wooded hills which bound the town of Simoda landward. The pathways 
which lead to them are handsomely constructed, often with causeways, 
bridges of a single Roman arch, and flight of steps, all of stone, care- 
fully sculptured and substantially built. Various gateways, guarded by 
stone statues of lions, or sometimes merely by pillars, upon which an in- 
scription warns off intruders, divide at intervals the approach, while the 
sides of the avenues are shaded with fine trees of vigorous growth and abun- 
dant foliage. Some of the temples are so embosomed in groves, that they 
are completely hidden from the sight, until their shaded thresholds are 
reached unexpectedly by the stranger. One of these especially is noticed for 
the beauty of its position and the perfection of its structure. It was partic- 
ularly devoted to a patron saint of the sailors, and was called by the Ameri- 
cans " the mariners' temple," and those engaged in occupations connected 
with the sea constantly resort there, to invoke the aid of, or to return thanks 
to the enshrined deity. Groups of fishermen with their baskets laden with the 
successful hauls of the day gathered within the precincts of the sacred place, 
and gratefully symbolized, according to prescribed form, the gratitude of 
their hearts. Shipwrecked mariners prostrated themselves before the idol, 
and fulfilled their vows by the sacrifice of their queues, and other exercises 
of self-imposed penance, which they had pledged for their lives in the agony 
of impending danger. Within the shade of the grove boatmen and fishermen 
were busy repairing their nets, and surrounded with their long oars, their 
baskets, and all the paraphernalia of their business, seemed to be invoking 
a blessing upon their labors, and propitiating the deity for good luck to the 
next day's fishing. The mariners' temple is one of the handsomest structures 
in Simoda. A solid stone causeway, leading over an arched bridge, with a 
low, well constructed wall on either side, leads to the steps of the building. 
The temple is built in the usual style, with a projecting roof of tiles orna- 
mentally arranged in cornices of flowers and graceful scrolls, and supported 
by lacquered pillars. Over the doorway there is a fine specimen of carved 
wood work, representing the sacred crane, on the wing, symbolizing as it 
were the unsettled life of the mariner. The body of the building is closed 
partly with wall and partly with oiled paper casements. The usual stone 
lantern is found on the left, and from the door hangs a straw rope, which, 
being connected with a bell inside, is pulled by the devotee to ring up the 



476 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

deity, that he may be aware of the call, and be wide awake to the spiritual 
necessities of his visitor. 

The expense of these numerous religious establishments must be very 
great, and the tax upon the people of Simoda proportionately burdensome, 
but it was impossible to obtain any very exact data in regard to the amount. 
As the voluntary system prevails to a great extent, and ecclesiastical pros- 
perity depends chiefly upon the generosity of the pious, the priests are very 
naturally stimulated into a very vigorous exercise of their functions, and are 
undoubtedly indefatigable laborers in their peculiar field. 

The country about Simoda is beautifully varied with hill and dale. 
There are the usual signs of elaborate Japanese culture, although from the 
more sparse population of the neighborhood there is more land left in a com- 
paratively barren condition than further up the bay towards the capital. 
The bottoms and sides of the valleys are covered with gardens and fields, 
which are well watered by the streamlets which flow through every valley, 
and which, by artificial arrangement, are diverted from their course, and 
pour their fertilizing waters over the land from terrace to terrace. There 
are four principal villages near Simoda. Kaki-zaki, or Persimmon point, 
lies at the end of the harbor and contains barely two hundred houses. One 
of its monasteries, known by the name of Goku-zhen-zhi, was set apart, like 
the Kio- zhen-zhi, in Simoda, as a place of resort for the foreigners ; and with- 
in the ground attached is the burial-place appropriated to Americans. There 
is a good anchorage at Kaki-zaki for junks, and many of them take in their 
cargoes there rather than at Simoda. 

Passing over the hills in a southeasterly direction, we come to the village 
of Susaki, which, with its two hundred houses or so, hangs upon the acclivity 
of a wooded hillside, with its front extending down to the beach and facing 
the waters of the inlet. Its inhabitants are generally fishermen, and their 
boats, and even larger vessels, can approach the shore at all states of the 
tide. From Susaki a good road leads in a northeasterly direction to the vil- 
lage of Sotowra, a small hamlet, also situated on the seaside, but with a pleas- 
ing landscape inland, varied by cultivated fields and an undergrowth of 
dwarf oaks. A larger place, the town of Shira-hama or White Beach, 
extends its houses along a sandy beach some three miles distant from Sotow- 
ra, and is comparatively a flourishing settlement. Several quarries of 
trachyte, or greenstone, are worked in the neighborhood, and large quanti- 
ties of charcoal are prepared on the forest-crowned hills in the rear. 

Turning westwardly and ascending the hill beyond Shira-hama, the highest 
summit within five miles of Simoda is reached, from which the whole south- 
ern area and breadth of the peninsula of Idzu can be seen at one glance. 
Barren peaks rise to the view out of thickly wooded hills, whose sides open 
into valleys, down which the wild vegetation throngs until checked by the 
culture of the fields that surround the busy hamlets at the bottom. Where 




¥ '"-? 



COUNTRY AROUND SIMODA. 477 

the beholder stands on the summit of the hill there is a small wooden shrine, 
almost hidden in a grove of pines. The numerous pictures, flowers, rags, 
copper cash, and decapitated queues found within, attest the popularity of 
the Zhi-zo-bozats, the deity of the place. 

Descending the hill by its northwestern slope, the largest valley of the 
country round is entered. The river Inodzu-gama, which flows into the 
harbor of Simoda, passes through this, irrigating the cultivated banks and 
sustaining the commerce of the various villages and towns in the interior. 
The hamlet of Hongo, containing about one hundred and fifty houses, is sit- 
uated on the river, which has been dammed at that spot, and turns five 
undershot mills for cleaning rice. This operation is performed by a very 
simcle machine, which consists of a projecting piece of wood or stone attach- 
ed at right angles to the end of a long lever, which plays upon a horizontal 
axis, and is moved up and down, like a pestle working in a mortar. 

This rude machinery is occasionally worked by water, as at Hongo, but 
more frequently by a man, who steps alternately ofi" and on the long end of 
the beam. The river at Hongo is navigable for flat-bottomed boats, which 
frequent the place for charcoal, grain, stone, and other products. The coun- 
try about is beautifully diversified, and the culture of the land is carried on 
to an extent that would hardly be believed by one who was not familiar 
with the populous countries of the east. Every hill is but a succession of 
terraces, rising ore above the other, from the base to the summit, and green 
with the growth of rice, barley, wheat and other grain. At the opening of 
a smaller valley, which branches ofi" from the main one near Hongo, is a 
small village, called Rendai-zhi, from the Lotus terrace monastery near by. 

From Hongo the valley widens more ai.d more until it reaches Simoda, 
where it forms an open expanse, like an alluvial plain. Along the base of 
the range of hills, and up their slopes, in the direction of the harbor, the nu- 
merous farm-houses and abounding granaries, many of them of stone, and 
with substantial walls of the same material, exhibit a cheerful prospect of 
thrift and comfort. Nor are there wanting evidences of luxuriant enjoyment 
in the handsome structure of the dwelling houses, with their pleasure 
grounds adorned with pastures of variegated flowers, artificial ponds of gold 
fish, and fancy dwarf shade and fruit trees. West of Simoda the villages are 
smaller, and the hills which flank them of less height. In that direction 
there are no villages of a shorter distance than five miles from the town of 
Simoda. Near two seaside settlements, towards the southwest, the inhabi- 
tants have excavated large chambers in the clifis, some hundred feet from the 
shore, in which they store the sea weed, which is a favorite article for chew- 
ing, as tobacco is used with us, and whither the fishermen occasionally resort 
for shelter. The lower hills in every direction are covered with wood, from 
which large supplies of charcoal are made, which is extensively used for fuel 
for domestic and manufacturing purposes. 



478 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

The topographical characteristics of Simoda are such as to indicate a 
healthful climate. Its situation on the extremity of a peninsula, looking 
seaward, and the elevated ground which surrounds the town, secure the 
fresh breezes of the sea and a freedom from miasmatic influences. Simoda 
itself lies low, but the soil is dry, and the stream which passes through it 
flows rapidly and with a clear current of pure water. It cannot be very 
cold, as Simoda is at the level of the sea, by the equable temperature of 
which the winter season is necessarily tempered. The hills from under 
which the town snugly reposes protect it from the full severity of the blasts 
from the snowy summits of the distant mountains. The climate is more or 
less variable in the winter and spring. The pressure of snow upon the lofty 
peaks, although there is seldom frost or snow at Simoda itself, and the not 
unfrequent rains with the ever necessary fogs, give an occasional humidity 
and rareness to the atmosphere, which are chilling to the senses, and must be 
productive of occasional inflammatory diseases, such as are frequent in the 
spring and winter with us. The change of the wind alternates often between 
the warm sea breezes from the south, and the cold blasts from the snow-cap- 
ped mountains inland, and produces the usual efi"ects, doubtless, of such vari- 
ations. In the summer it is occasionally very hot in the day time, but the 
nights are refreshed by the sea breezes. From April 19th to May 13th, a 
record of the thermometer gives 72^ as the highest, and 58° as the lowest 
point, and of the barometer 29.38 and 30.00 As the season advances the 
mercury rises, no doubt, much higher, reaching probably 85° of Fahrenheit, 
or more. Simoda is liable to the ordinary afi"ections of temperate climates, 
but there seems no reason to suspect that it has a special tendency to any 
epidemic diseases. 

Since the treaty of Kanagawa, by which the port was opened to inter- 
course with the Americans, Simoda has been separated from the jurisdiction 
of the principality of Idzu, and constituted an imperial city, the authorities 
of which are appointed directly by the government at Yedo. There is 
a governor or general superintendent of the municipal and commercial 
afi"airs of the place, with a fiscal assistant or treasurer, whose particular 
function has regard to the revenues. Subordinate to these two officials, 
there are the same number of prefects or hugio, who again have under them 
various collectors and interpreters, whose business is the practical adminis- 
tration of affairs in the various departments of government and trade. 
The limit of the jurisdiction of the imperial officers is marked by six guard 
stations, neither of which is over a mile and a half from the town, placed 
on all the principal roads leading to Simoda. Beyond these, the inhabitants 
of the country are amenable as before to their own local government, while 
within them all persons are under the newly appointed authorities. 



47 



a 



CHAPTEE XXII. 



Survey and description of the harbor of Simoda. — Discipline in the squadron. — Intercourse with the au- 
thorities of Simoda. — Kura-kawa-kahei, the Prefect. — His disposition to produce trouble. — Treatment 
of the American officers. — Remonstrances of the Commodore. — Equivocation of the Prefect. — He is 
frightened into propriety. — Efforts of two Japanese gentlemen clandestinely to leave their country in 
the squadron. — Commodore's conduct. — Bnddh st temples at Simoda. — Prefect again shows his petty 
hostility. — His prevarications and falsehoods. — Funeral of an American on shore. — Insult offered to 
American officers on .«hore. — Prefect's further falsehoods. — Compelled to apologize, and informed that 
his insoltnce would not be borne in future. — Friendly intercourse with the people. — Departure for Ha- 
kodadi.— Volcano of Oho-sima— The Kuro-siwo, or Japanese " gulf stream." — Straits of Sangar.— 
Fogs. — Harbor of Hakodadi. — Directions for entering. 



N the Commodore's arrival at 
the port of Simoda, he immedi- 
ately organized a surveying party 
for the complete examination of 
the harbor, and, during his stay, 
succeeded in obtaining a thorough 
knowledge of all the points of 
nautical interest to the navigator. 
The harbor of Simoda is near 
the southeastern extremity of the 
peninsula of Idzu, which termi- 
nates at the cape of that name, 
and bears S. W. by W., at a dis- 
tance of forty-five miles from 
Cape Sagami, at the entrance of 
the lower bay or gulf of Yedo. 
To the northward of the harbor, 
a high ridge of mountains inter- 
sects the peninsula, and south 
of this, all the way to the cape, 
the land is broken by innumerable peaks of less elevation. There are sev- 
eral islands and prominent rocks, which are picturesque features in the view, 
and important indications, which require to be carefully considered by those 




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I? OF NIPPON 

Survi-yed liy order of 

COMJIOBORE MC PERKY USlV 

ScaJEofonp Siuiik Mile 



7Xf Smric/irii//, ,ac in }j,,,llsli KitJim. 



Caitre fjf.land 

J^aru, m 7 30 £ 
Tar im j? OO W^ 



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^iM^ 






480 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

approaching Simoda from the sea. Eock island, in latitude 34° 33' 50" 
i^ N., longitude 138° 57' 16" E., is about one hundred and twenty feet high 
and a third of a mile long, with precipitous shores, and a surface of irregu- 
lar outline. Covering the top there is a thick growth of shrubs, grass, 
weeds, and moss. From the summit of this island overfalls were seen, 
bearing N. ^ W.. distant a mile or a mile and a half, which may have been 
caused by rocks or reefs. An effort was made to investigate the cause, but 
without success, in consequence of the strong current and the fresh winds. 
The Japanese fishermen, however, deny that there is any danger to navigation 
in that direction. North by west from Kock island, distant two miles, are 
the Ukona rocks, which are really two in number, though at a distance they 
generally appear as one. The larger reaches a height of seventy feet. Be- 
tween these rocks and Rock island there is a current setting east northea.st- 
wardly, and running at a rate of quite four miles an hour. From Rock, 
Centre island, so called from its being the point from which the treaty 
limits are measured, bears N. ^ E., at a distance of five and a half miles, 
and from the two Ukona rocks, N. by E. ^ E., distant three and a half miles. 
Centre island is high, conical in shape, and is covered with a full growth 
of trees, while through its base passes, from one side to the other, a natural 

Xcave. Its latitude was found, by careful observation, to be 34° 39' 49" N., 
and its longitude 138° 57' 50" E., with a variation of 52' westwardly. 
High water, full and change, five hours. The extreme rise of the tide is 
five feet seven inches upon the shores of the island, and the mean rise three 
feet. Buisako is the name of an islet which, covered with trees and shrubs, 
and about forty feet in height, lies N. N. E. from Centre island. Off the 
villao-e of Susaki, at a distance of one-third of a mile from the shore, is a 
ledge of rocks upon which the swell is always breaking. 

Vessels bound to the harbor of Simoda from the southward and west- 
y^ ward should make Cape Idzu, latitude 34° 32' N., longitude 138° 51' E., 
from which Rock island bears E. S. E. ^ E., distant about six miles. If 
the weather is at all clear, the chain of islands at the entrance of the lower 
bay or gulf of Yedo will, at the same time, be plainly visible. Between 
Rock island and the main land there are a number of rocks projecting above 
water, among which the Japanese junks freely pass; but a ship should not 
attempt the passage inside the island, unless in case of urgent necessity, as 
the northeasterly current which sweeps along this coast, seems to be at this 
point capricious both in direction and velocity. Giving Rock island the berth 
of a mile, the harbor of Simoda will be in full view, bearing N. |- W., dis- 
tant five miles. Vandalia bluff, on the east side of the entrance, may be 
recognized by a grove of pines on its summit, and the village of Susaki, 
which is situated about one-third of the way between the bluff and a sharp 
point called Cape Diamond, making out to the eastward of the entrance to 
the harbor. A vessel standing in from Rock island will probably pass 



HARBOK OF SIMODA. 481 

througli a number of tide-rips ; but soundings will not be obtained by the 
hand-lead until near the entrance of the harbor, when the navigator will find 
himself in from seventeen to twenty-four fathoms. Should the wind be 
from the northward and fresh, it would be expedient to anchor at the mouth 
of the harbor until it lulls or shifts, or until the vessel can be conveniently 
warped in, as the breezes usually blow in flaws and are always baffling. 

Approaching from the northward and eastward, a vessel can pass on 
either side of the island of Oho-sima, from the centre of which Cape Dia- 
mond bears "W. S. W. f W., distant about twenty miles. The navigator ap- 
proaching from the east will not hi .d the harbor opening until he is well 
inside of Cape Diamond. Between Oho-sima and Simoda no dangers are 
known to exist, but the northeasterly current must be borne constantly in 
mind, particularly at night and in thick weather. Its general strength is 
from two to three miles per hour ; but as this, as well as its direction, is 
much influenced by the local winds, headlands, islands, rocks, and other 
causes, neither can be relied on. 

Should Oho-sima be obscured by thick weather before reaching Cape 
Diamond, the pilot should endeavor to sight Kock island, for there are no 
very conspicuous objects on the main land by which the stranger can recog- 
nize the harbor at a distance, and the shore appears as one unbroken line. 
To the northward of Cape Diamond is the bay of Sir: hama, which is quite 
deep, and as it has several sand beaches it may be taken for Simoda ; but as 
this bay is aj)proached. Cape Diamond will shut in the Ukona rocks and 
Rock island to the southward, while in the Simoda roads they are both visi- 
ble from all points. To the westward of the harbor there are several 
beaches and banks of sand, which, as they can be plainly discerned at the 
distance of six or eight miles, will serve as good landmarks. 

A vessel from the southward and eastward should pass to the west of 
Meac-sima, which may be known by a remarkable snow-white cliff on its 
western side, and a patch on the summit toward the north. To the south- 
ward and westward of the island there are groups of dangerous rocks, some 
fifteen or twenty feet high, which were called by the Commodore, Redfield, 
after the well-known scientific investigator of that name. One is in lati- "^ 
tude 33° 56' 13" N., and longitude 138° 48' 31" E.; the other in latitude V 
33° 57' 31" N., and in longitude 138° 49' 13" E. 

There are but two hidden dangers in the harbor. The first is the South- 
ampton rock, so called from the ship which touched upon it, and lying in 
mid-channel, bearing N. ^ W. from Yandalia bluff, between which and Cen- 
tre island it is situated about three-fourths of the way. The rock is esti- 
mated to be about twenty-five feet in diameter, and has two fathoms of 
water covering it. It was marked by the surveyors with a white spar-buoy. 
The other concealed danger is the Supply rock, which bears S. by W., at a 
31 



482 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

short distance from Buisako islet, and has a sharp edge with eleven feet of 
water upon it. A red spar-buoy indicates its position. 

The general discipline of the squadron had been excellent during the 
whole expedition, and under circumstances calculated to test, with some de- 
gree of severity, the government of the officers and the obedience of the 
men. From the necessity of conciliating the strange people of Japan, and 
conforming, in some respects, to their habits of non-intercourse with foreign- 
ers, it required great tact, on the part of those havmg authority on board 
ship, to reconcile the natural desire of occasional liberty on the part of the 
sailors with the rigid reserve of the Japanese. This was, however, accom- 
plished with general success, and there was but little occasion for any but the 
ordinary exercise of the rules of discipline to secure the preservation of that 
good order which was the characteristic of all the ships of the squadron. 
Neglect of duty and small offences were promptly rebuked and punished by 
the usual penalties, and great severity was rarely called for. On the 19th 
of April, however, it was found necessary to convene a general -court-mar- 
tial on board the Mississippi for the trial of several seamen, and the result 
was the finding of two of the men guilty of desertion. It was, however, 
but technical desertion, consisting in what Jack calls " French," meaning 
" taking French leave," by wandering off from a boat ashore, without permis- 
sion, to look for drink. The laws of the service, however, properly enough, 
deem such conduct desertion. The sentence was duly read in all the ships 
of the squadron, and the delinquents suffered the usual penalty of confine- 
ment for a time and stoppage of pay. 

On the third day after reaching Simoda, April 21st, the Commodore, 
accompanied by a small suite of officers, landed, and paid an official visit to 
Kura-Kawa-Kahei, the prefect. The party was received with the usual 
formal courtesies by the Japanese official and Moryama Yenoske, who had 
come to Simoda to exercise his functions as an interpreter, and to aid, by 
his experience, in carrying out the conditions of the treaty just negotiated at 
Kanagawa. The Commodore, after partaking of refreshments, walked 
through the town to take a general survey, and entered various temples, 
which are the chief objects of interest to the stranger at Simoda. On his 
return to the ship he was accompanied by several of the Japanese officials, 
who proposed to make some arrangement for the supply of such provisions 
as might be required by the squadron. 

Presuming upon the privileges secured by the treaty, the officers began 
now to frequent the shore, and stroll freely about the streets of the town 
and the neighboring country. The common people, as had been elsewhere 
observed, seemed very much disposed to welcome the strangers and engage 
in friendly converse with them. They exhibited their usual curiosity, and 
thronged about the Americans, examining their dress, and, with almost 
childish eagerness and delight, fingered the officers' buttons, swords, and 



JAPANESE SURVEILLANCE REPELLED. 483 

gay accoutrements, and, pointing to them, would ask, in their pantomimic 
way, the English names for each article which struck their fancy. It was 
soon discovered, however, that the Japanese authorities were not disposed to 
allow of this free intermingling of the people with the Americans, and no 
sooner was it observed than various armed soldiers or policemen came up 
and dispersed their countrymen. Not satisfied with the exercise of this se- 
vere discipline upon the poor Japanese, the officials seemed determined to 
practise their authority upon the American officers. It was found that, 
wherever the latter went, they were followed by a squad of soldiers, who 
watched every movement, and dogged their steps with the pertinacity of a 
pack of hounds. The people, under the orders of the local authorities, fled, 
and the town, with its shops closed and its streets deserted, was as sad as if 
it had been devastated by the plague. Even in their strolls into the country, 
the American officers found that they could not divest themselves of the 
perpetual presence and jealous watchfulness of the Japanese spies, who were 
evidently resolved to restrict the freedom of their visitors, and put them 
under the most rigid surveillance. 

The Commodore, upon being made aware of this treatment of his officers, 
felt greatly indignant, as it was in violation of the stipulations of the trea- 
ty, and he determined to bring the authorities of Simoda, whom he held 
responsible, to account. He accordingly dispatched his flag lieutenant and 
his two interpreters on shore, to call upon the prefect, and lay before 
him certain complaints which were specified in a memorandum, in which the 
Commodore expressed his dissatisfaction at the manner in which his offi- 
cers were treated on going ashore, and protested against their being followed 
by soldiers, the dispersion of the people, and the closing of the shops. 
These, he declared, were at variance with the stipulations of the treaty ; 
and threatened, if the annoyances should continue, he would sail to Yedo 
with his whole squadron and demand an explanation. The Commodore also 
took occasion to insist upon a suitable place being set apart on shore for a 
resort for himself and officers ; and as he proposed a visit to the island of 
Oho-sima, requested that proper provisions should be made for the journey, 
a junk be provided, and certain Japanese officials selected to accompany the 
American expedition. 

The prefect, upon hearing this protest of the Commodore, replied, that 
the Dutch at Nagasaki were always followed by twelve or fourteen Japanese 
soldiers, and seemed to think that such a precedent should be a rule of con- 
duct for the Americans. He was, however, told that the treatment of the 
Dutch was not to be taken for a moment as a criterion by which the Japa- 
nese authorities were to judge of what was proper in their relations with 
the Americans, who had a " treaty of amity and intercourse " with Japan ; 
and coming, as they did, to Simoda as friends, they would insist upon being 
treated as such, and suffer no infringement of privileges which had been 



484 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

guarantied by a solemn compact. The prefect, moreover, was told that the 
Americans intended no harm to the people, but, on the contrary, desired the 
most friendly relations with them, and the freest intercourse, without being 
watched and restrained by soldiers, acting under the orders of their superiors. 
Such a surveillance as had hitherto been practised was what Americans 
were not accustomed to, and particularly as it would seem to indicate that 
they were intent upon the commission of some outrage. 

This resolute language produced its desired effect upon the prefect, who 
excused his conduct upon the plea that he had left Yoku-hama before the 
signing of the treaty, and had, in consequence, not been aware that it con- 
tained the clause " free intercourse." He would be obliged, he continued, 
to refer to his superiors at Yedo for instructions on this point, and ascer- 
tain how they construed that article; but, in the meanwhile, he would 
give orders that the houses should not be closed, and try the experiment 
of allowing the officers to visit the shore without being followed by sol- 
diers. 

The prefect then readily acceded to the Commodore's demands in regard 
to a place of resort and the visit to Oho-sima, saying that any of the tem- 
ples were at his disposition, where the best accommodation Simoda afforded 
would be prepared for him, and that a junk, two boats, and certain Japa- 
nese attendants would be immediately provided for those persons of the 
squadron the Commodore wished to send to Oho-sima. After an expression 
from the prefect of courtesy, and the hope that trifles would not be permit- 
ted to interrupt the friendly feeling subsisting between the Americans and 
the Japanese, the interview closed. 

The various officers of the squadron now visited the shore daily, and for 
a time there was apparently less disposition to interfere with their move- 
ments, or watch their proceedings. On one of these occasions a party had 
passed out into the country beyond the suburbs, when they found two Japa- 
nese following them ; but, as they were supposed to be a couple of spies on 
the watch, little notice was at first taken of them. Observing, however, 
that they seemed to be approaching as if stealthily, and as though desirous of 
seeking an opportunity of speaking, the American officers awaited their com- 
ing up. On being accosted, the Japanese were observed to be men of some 
position and rank, as each wore the two swords characteristic of distinction, 
and were dressed in wide but short trowsers of rich silk brocade. Their 
manners showed the usual courtly refinement of the better classes, but they ex- 
hibited the embarrassment of men who evidently were not perfectly at their 
ease, and were about doing something of dubious propriety. They cast 
their eyes stealthily about, as if to assure themselves that none of their 
countrymen were at hand to observe their proceedings, and then approach- 
ing one of the officers and pretending to admire his watch-chain, slipped 



A JAPANESE LETTER 485 

within the breast of his coat a folded paper.* They now significantly, with 
the finger upon the lips, entreated secresy, and rapidly made off. 

During the succeeding night about two o'clock, a. m., (April 25th,) the 
officer of the mid watch, on board the steamer Mississippi, was aroused by 
a voice from a boat alongside, and upon proceeding to the gangway, found a 
couple of Japanese, who had mounted the ladder at the ship's side, and 
upon being accosted, made signs expressive of a desire to be admitted on 
board. 

They seemed very eager to be allowed to remain, and showed a very evi- 

* This paper proved to be a letter in Japanese, of which the following is a literal trans- 
lation hy Mr. Williams, the interpreter of the squadron : 

" Two scholars from Yedo, in Japan, present this letter for the inspection of ' the high 
officers and those Avho manage affairs.' Our attainments are few and trifling, as we our- 
selves are small and unimportant, so that we are abashed in coming before you ; we are 
neither skilled in the use of arms, nor are we able to discourse upon the rules of strategy 
and military discipline ; in ti-ifling pursuits and idle pastimes our years and months have 
slipped away. We have, however, read in books, and learned a little by hearsay, what are 
the customs and education in Europe and America, and we have been for many years desirous 
of going over the ' five great continents,' but the laws of our country in all maritime points 
are very strict ; for foreigners to come into the country, and for natives to go abroad, are 
both immutably forbidden. Our wish to visit other regions has consequently only ' gone 
to and fro in our own breasts in continual agitation,' like one's breathing being impeded or 
his walking cramped. Happily, the arrival of so many of your ships in these waters, and 
stay for so many days, which has given us opportunity to make a pleasing acquaint- 
ance and careful examination, so that we are fully assured of the kindness and liberality 
of your excellencies, and your regard for others, has also revived the thoughts of many 
years, and they are urgent for an exit. 

" This, then, is the time to carry the plan into execution, and we now secretly send 
you this private request, that you will take us on board your ships as they go out to sea ; 
we can thus visit around in the five great continents, even if we do in this, slight the pro- 
hibitions of our own country. Lest those who have the management of affairs may feel some 
chagrin at this, in order to effect our desire, we are willing to serve in any way we can on 
board of the ships, and obey the orders given us. For doubtless it is, that when a lame 
man sees others walking he wishes to walk too ; but how shall the pedestrian gratify his 
desires when he sees another one riding ? We have all our lives been going hither to you, 
miable to get more than thirty degrees east and west, or twenty-five degrees north and 
south ; but now when we see how you sail on the tempests and cleave the huge billows, 
going lightning speed thousands and mjTriads of miles, skirting along the five great conti- 
nents, can it not be likened to the lame finding a plan for walking, and the pedestrian see- 
ing a mode by which he can ride ? If you who manage affairs will give our request your 
consideration, we will retain the sense of the favor ; but the prohibitions of our country are 
still existent, and if this matter should become known we should uselessly see ourselves 
pursued and brought back for immediate execution without fail, and such a result would 
greatly grieve the deep humanity and kindness you all bear towards others. If you are 
willing to accede to this request, keep ' wrapped in silence our error in making it' until 
you are about to leave, in order to avoid all risk of such serious danger to life ; for when, 
by-and-bye, we come back, our countrymen will never think it worth while to investigate 
bygone doings. Although our words have only loosely let our thoughts leak out, yet truly 



486 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

dent determination not to return to tlie shore, Iby the desire they expressed 
of casting off their boat, utterly regardless of its fate. The captain of the 
Mississippi directed them to the flag-ship, to which, on retiring to their boat, 
they pulled off at once. Having reached her with some difficulty, in conse- 
quence of the heavy swell in the harbor, they had hardly got upon the lad- 
der and mounted to the gangway, when their boat got adrift, either by 
accident, or from being let gD intentionally. On their reaching the deck, the 
officer informed the Commodore of their presence, who sent his interpreter 
to confer with them and learn the purposes of their untimely visit. They 
frankly confessed that their object was to be taken to the United States, 
where they might gratify their desire of travelling, and seeing the world. 
They were now recognized as the two men who had met the officers on shore, 
and given one of them the letter. They seemed much fatigued by their 
boating excursion, and their clothes showed signs of being travel worn, al- 
though they proved to be Japanese gentlemen of good position. They both 
were entitled to wear the two swords, and one still retained a single one, 
but they had left the other three in the boat which had gone adrift with 
them. They were educated men, and wrote the mandarin Chinese with 
fluency and apparent elegance, and their manners were courteous and highly 
refined. The Commodore, on learning the purpose of their visit, sent word 
that he regretted that he was unable to receive them, as he would like very 
much to take some Japanese to America with him. He, however, was 
compelled to refuse them until they received permission from their govern- 
ment, for seeking which they would have ample opportunity, as the squadron 
would remain in the harbor of Simoda for some time longer. They were 
greatly disturbed by this answer of the Commodore, and declaring that if 
they returned to the land they would lose their heads, earnestly implored to 
be allowed to remain. The prayer was firmly but kindly refused. A long 
discussion ensued, in the course of which they urged every possible argu- 
ment in their favor, and continued to appeal to the humanity of the Ameri- 
cans. A boat was now lowered, and after some mild resistance on their part 
to being sent off, they descended the gangway piteously deploring their fate, 



they are sincere ; and if your excellencies are pleased to regard them kindly, do not doubt 
them nor oppose our wishes. We together pay our respects in handing this in. April 11." 
A small note was enclosed, of which the following is a translation : " The enclosed letter 
contains the earnest request we have had for many days, and which we tried ia many ways 
to get off to you at Yoku-hama, in a fishing-boat, by night ; but the cruisers were too thick, 
and none others were allowed to come alongside, so that we were in great uncertainty how 
to act. Hearing that the ships were coming to Simoda we have come to take our 
chance, intending to get a small boat and go off to the ships, but have not succeeded. 
Trusting your worships wiU agree, Ave will, to-morrow night, after all is quiet, be at Kaki- 
zaki in a small boat, near the shore, where there are no houses. There we greatly hope 
you to meet us and take us away, and thus bring our hopes to fruition. April 25." 



\ 



CONSEQUENCES OF THE VI SIT OF THE JAPANESE. 487 

and were landed at a spot near where it was supposed their boat might have 
drifted. 

On the afternoon of the next day, Yenoske, the chief interpreter, who 
had come to Simoda from Yedo for the express purpose of requesting the 
postponement of the expedition to Oho-sima, which was conditionally grant- 
ed by the Commodore, came on board the Powhatan, and requested to see 
the flag-lieuteuant, to whom he stated, that "last night a couple of demented 
Japanese had gone off to one of the American vessels," and wished to know 
if it had been the flag-ship ; and if so, whether the men had been guilty of 
any impropriety. The flag-lieutenant replied, that it was difficult to retain 
any very precise recollection of those who visited the ships, as so many were 
constantly coming from the shore in the watering boats and on business, but 
he assured the interpreter that no misdemeanor could have been committed, 
or he would have been aware of the fact. The interpreter was then asked, 
whether the Japanese he referred to had reached the shore in safety, to 
which the very satisfactory answer that " they had " was received. 

The Commodore, upon hearing of the visit of the interpreter and the ap- 
parent anxiety of the Japanese authorities in regard to the conduct of the 
two strange visitors to the ships, sent an officer on shore in order to quiet 
the excitement which had been created, and to interpose as far as possible 
in behalf of the poor fellows, who it was certain would be pursued with the 
utmost rigor of Japanese law. The authorities were thanked for the solici- 
tude they had expressed lest the Americans should have been inconvenienced 
by any of their people, and assured that they need not trouble themselves 
for a moment with the thought that so slight a matter had been considered 
otherwise than a mere trivial occurrence unworthy of any investigation. The 
Japanese were further informed that they need give themselves no anxiety 
for the future, as none of their countrymen should be received on board the 
American ships without the consent of the authorities, as the Commodore 
and his officers were not disposed to take advantage of their confidence or 
act in any way that would be inconsistent with the spirit of the treaty. If 
the Commodore had felt himself at liberty to indulge his feelings, he would 
have gladly given a refuge on board his ship to the poor Japanese, who ap- 
parently sought to escape from the country from the desire of gratifying a 
liberal curiosity, which had been stimulated by the presence of the Ameri- 
cans in Japan. There were other considerations which, however, had higher 
claims than an equivocal humanity. To connive at the flight of one of the 
people was to disobey the laws of the Empire, and it was the only true 
policy to conform, in all possible regards, to the institutions of a country by 
which so many important concessions had already been reluctantly granted. 
The Empire of Japan forbids the departure of any of its subjects for a for- 
eign country under the penalty of death, and the two men who had fled on 
board the ships were criminals in the eye of their own laws, however inno- 



488 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

cent they might have appeared to the Americans. Moreover, although 
there was no reason to doubt the account the two Japanese gave of them- 
selves, it was possible they were influenced by other and less worthy motives 
than those they professed. It might have been a stratagem to test Ameri- 
can honor, and some believed it so to be. The Commodore, by his careful 
efforts to impress upon the authorities how trifling he esteemed the offence, 
hoped to mitigate the punishment to which it was amenable. The event 
Y was full of interest, as indicative of the intense desire for information on 
the part of two educated Japanese, who were ready to brave the rigid laws 
of the country, and to risk even death for th# sake of adding to their 
knowledge. The Japanese are undoubtedly an inquiring people, and would 
gladly welcome an opportunity for the ^.xpansion of their moral and intel- 
lectual faculties. The conduct of the unfortunate two was, it is believed, 
characteristic of their countrymen, and nothing can better represent the in- 
tense curiosity of the people, while its exercise is only prevented by the 
most rigid laws and ceaseless watchfulness lest they should be disobeyed. 
In this disposition of the people of Japan, what a field of speculation, and, 
it may be added, what a prospect full of hope opens for the future of that 
interesting country ! 

Some days subsequently, as a party of officers were strolling in the 
suburbs, they came upon the prison of the town, where they recognized the 
two unfortunate Japanese immured in one of the usual places of confine- 
ment, a kind of cage, barred in front and very restricted in dimensions. The 
poor fellows had been immediately pursued upon its being discovered that 
they had visited the ships, and after a few days they were pounced upon 
and lodged in prison. They seemed to bear their misfortune with great 
equanimity, and were greatly pleased apparently with the visit of the Amer- 
ican officers, in whose eyes they evidently were desirous of appearing to ad- 
vantage. On one of the visitors approaching the cage, the Japanese wrote 
on a piece of board that was handed to them the following, which, as a 
remarkable specimen of philosophical resignation under circumstances which 
would have tried the stoicism of Cato, deserves a record : 

" When a hero fails in his purpose, his acts are then regarded as those 
of a villain and a robber. In public have we been seized and pinioned and 
caged for many days. The village elders and head men treat us disdain- 
fully, their oppressions being grievous indeed. Therefore, looking up while 
yet we have nothing wherewith to reproach ourselves, it must now be seen 
whether a hero will prove himself to be one indeed. Regarding the liberty 
of going through the sixty States as not enough for our desires, we wished 
to make the circuit of the five great continents. This was our hearts' wish 
for a long time. Suddenly our plans are defeated, and we find ourselves in 
a half-sized house, where eating, resting, sitting, and sleeping are difficult ; 



BAD TEMPER OF THE PREFECT. 489 

how can we find our exit from this place ? Weeping, we seem as fools ; 

laughing, as rogues. Alas ! for us ; silent we can only be. 

"ISAGI KOODA, 
"KWANSUCHI MANJI." 

The Commodore, on being informed of the imprisonment of the two 
Japanese, sent his flag-lieutenant on shore to ascertain unofficially whether 
they were the same who had visited the ships. The cage was found as de- 
scribed, but empty, and the guards of the prison declared that the men had 
been sent that morning to Yedo, in obedience to an order from the capital. 
They had been confined, it was stated, for going off to the American ships, 
and as the prefect had no authority to act in the matter, he had at once re- 
ported the case to the umperial government, which had sent for the prisoners, 
and then held them under its jurisdiction. The fate of the poor fellows was 
never ascertained, but it is hoped that the authorities were more merciful 
than to have awarded the severest penalty, which was the loss of their 
heads, for what appears to us only liberal and highly commendable curiosity, 
however great the crime according to the eccentric and sanguinary code of 
Japanese law. It is a comfort to be able to add, that the Commodore 
received an assurance from the authorities, upon questioning them, that he 
need not apprehend a serious termination. 

The large Buddhist temple, the Rio-shen-zhi, or great peace monastery, 
was the place appropriated by the authorities, in accordance with the 
demands of the Commodore, for his use and that of his officers. Most of the 
Japanese temples have apartments separate from the ecclesiastical part of 
the establishment, which are used for lodging and entertaining strangers and 
distinguished visitors. They are also employed occasionally for various pub- 
lic gatherings on festival and market days ; and bazaars, for buying and sell- 
ing, are not unfrequently opened ; thus converting the temple into a place 
for the free exercise of all the roguery of trade, if not literally into a " den 
of thieves." As the supply of furniture was scant in the lodging department 
of the Rio-shen-zhi, chairs and other appliances of comfort were brought from 
the ships, and the quarters were made tolerably luxurious. In order to fa- 
miliarize the Japanese people with their presence, the Commodore and his 
officers frequently resorted to tlieir apartments on shore, and found a walk 
in the pleasure grounds which surrounded them, and on the wooded hills at 
the back, a pleasant diversion from the routine of ship's duty. 

There was, notwithstanding the promise of the prefect, very little im- 
provement in the conduct of the authorities, and the Americans still found 
their liberty much restricted, and their privacy interrupted by the jealous 
watchfulness and intrusive officiousness of the soldiers and spies. The Commo- 
dore himself, on one occasion, when proceeding through the town in company 
with several of his officers, found that he was constantly preceded by two 



490 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

Japanese functionaries, wlio ordered all the people tliey met to retire withir 
their houses and close the doors. The shopmen were evidently forbidden to 
sell their wares to the strangers, for the most trifling articles which they 
might desire to purchase could not be obtained on any terms. The Com- 
modore found it necessary again to protest against this illiberal treatment, 
and sent his flag-lieutenant to the prefect to lay before him certain com- 
plaints and to insist upon their causes being immediately removed. The 
prefect was accordingly called upon, and informed that it appeared that he 
was determined to evade the full execution of the stipulations of the treaty, 
since, by allowing his spies or soldiers to follow the Americans, and by order- 
ing the people to withdraw from the streets and to close their houses, he was 
placing every obstruction in the way of that friendly intercourse with the 
Japanese which was guarantied by the compact solemnly entered into be- 
tween Japan and the United States. The prefect was then assured, that if 
these annoyances should continue, the Commodore would stop all relations 
with the town and return to Yedo, as, although he had been eight days at 
Simoda, there had been very little improvement in the conduct of the 
authorities, and his patience was exhausted. 

The prefect excused himself by averring that the Commodore was mis- 
taken in his allegations, and that the soldiers were present for the protection 
of the visitors, and were engaged, not, as was supposed, in ordering the 
people to withdraw and close their houses, but in directing them to welcome 
the Americans, and open their doors to them. Upon the flag-lieutenant, 
however, urging that his personal experience proved the contrary, the 
prefect said then that his orders had been misunderstood, and he would 
renew them and see that they were executed, that the Commodore might 
have no reason to complain thereafter. In regard to trading with the 
Americans, the prefect declared that he had received no instructions to al- 
low of it until the opening of a bazaar. He was then answered that the 
officers merely wanted some small articles for their own use, and any pur- 
chases they might make could not be considered as coming within the tech- 
nical understanding of the term " trade." It was then agreed, after some 
resistance on the part of the prefect and a long discussion, that whenever an 
American wished to buy any article he should give an order for it to the 
shopman, who would be directed to take the order and the purchase to the 
interpreter, by whom the article would be sent to the ships. The prefect 
then referred to the case of the two Japanese who had clandestinely visited 
the steamers, and seemed solicitous of obtaining some information in regard 
to their conduct, but his inquiries were abruptly checked by the answer that 
the Commodore was not to be questioned by any of the subordinates of the 
government. 

As the Americans, subsequent to this last interview with the prefect, 
began to frequent the shops and select articles for purchase, it was found ne- 



AN AMERICAN FUNERAL ON SHORE. 491 

cessary to establish some temporary currency. It was accordingly arranged, 
since the Japanese money, from the strict laws which governed its cir- 
culation, could not be used in dealings with foreigners, that United States 
coins should be received by the shopmen at Simoda. The value of these was 
estimated comparatively with the Chinese copper cash, with which the Japa- 
nese were familiar, at the rate of 1,600 Chinese cash to one silver dollar. 
This the Japanese readily assented to, and became soon as eager as any 
other trading people to become possessed of the money of the Americans. 

On the 2d of May the Macedonian arrived from the Bonin Islands with 
a very welcome supply of j&ne turtles, which were distributed among the sev- 
eral ships of the squadron and greatly enjoyed. The market of Simoda was 
not well supplied with fresh meats ; for, in consequence of the prevailing 
Buddhism and the simple habits of the people, there were but few animals 
which could be obtained for food. The poultry were very scarce, and the 
few cattle in the place were too much valued as beasts of burden to be read- 
ily offered for sacrifice to the carnivorous propensities of strangers ; so the 
arrival of the turtles was very gratefully welcomed by those on board ship 
who, with the exception of a supply of fish and vegetables, had been so long- 
confined to a sea-diet of biscuit and salt junk. 

Two days subsequent to the arrival of the Macedonian the Lexington 
was dispatched for Lew Chew, and on the 6th of May the Macedonian, 
Vandalia, and Southampton preceded the steamers and sailed for Hako- 
dadi. 

One of the sailors on board the Powhatan having unfortunately fallen 
from aloft and died soon after, it became necessary to make some provision 
for his burial. 

The Japanese authorities readily assented to the request that he should 
be buried ashore. A place of interment was accordingly selected in the 
neighborhood of the village of Kaki-zaki, and thenceforward appropriated as 
the burial place for Americans. On the day of the funeral several Japanese 
ofi&cials came on board ship, and saying that their laws required it, asked to 
inspect the body. They, however, politely prefaced their demands with the 
remark that it was a formality about which the prefect and they themselves 
could exercise ro discretion, but that they had no doubt it might be dispensed 
with for the future, on a requisition being made to the commissioners. As the 
coffin was still unnailed, and there seemed no good reason for refusing to 
grant the request of the Japanese officials, they were allowed to see the 
body. The burial then took place, according to the usual Christian cere- 
monies, in the place on shore which had been appropriated for the purpose. 

Everything seemed now to be on the most friendly footing, and it was 
with no little surprise and vexation that the Commodore heard, from the re- 
ports of some of his officers, of an outrage which called for a prompt rebuke, 
and the demand for an apology from the local authorities. The Commo- 



492 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

dore's iSrst impulse, in fact, was to dispatch a guard of marines on shore to 
arrest the Japanese officials who had been guilty, but, upon reflection, he 
determined to send his lieutenant to call upon the prefect and to lay before 
him the facts of the outrage, and to insist upon the fullest explanation and 
apology. The occurrence was simply this : three of the officers went ashore 
to amuse themselves in the neighborhood of Simoda with their fowling- 
pieces, and after a day's shooting, which was prolonged to a late hour, they 
betook themselves to one of the temples as a resting-place. As the evening 
was too far advanced to think of returning to the ships, it was proposed 
that the sportsmen should spend their night in the lodging apartment con- 
nected with the monastery. With a view courteously to avoid any misun- 
derstanding, the officers first informed Tabroske, the interpreter, of their in- 
tention, which was supposed to be in perfect conformity with the understand- 
ing with the authorities, who had specifically declared that either of the 
temples was at the disposition of the Commodore and his officers for a 
resting-place. The three gentlemen had hardly, however, entered, and 
prepared themselves for a night's rest upon the soft mats of the apartment, 
when a great noise at the entrance, and the subsequent thronging in of a 
troop of soldiers, led by Tatsnoske and a number of Japanese officials, 
disturbed their prospect of repose, and greatly aroused the indignation of the 
officers. The Japanese intruded themselves unceremoniously into the sleep- 
ing apartment, and rudely insisted on the Americans leaving on the instant 
and returning to the ships. 

Tatsnoske and another official, finding that their urgent appeals were 
unheeded, left with the intention, as they said, of going to see the Commo- 
dore in reference to the matter. In their absence, the remaining officials 
and soldiers became still more rude and insolent, but were soon brought to a 
civil silence and driven in fright from the apartment by the formidable atti- 
tude of the three officers, who stood to their arms, and significantly cocked 
their revolvers. There was no further interruption to the tranquillity of 
the officers, but a guard was stationed in another part of the temple, where 
they remained during the whole night. 

The prefect was disposed at first to justify the conduct of his subordi- 
nates when the case was laid before him. He declared that the American 
officers were in the wrong for not having given previous notice of their 
intention to stay on shore, and because they had gone to a temple which had 
not been especially designated for their use. 

When the prefect was set right in regard to these false countercharges, 
he shifted his ground, and urged that, as the treaty had not yet gone into 
effect, the Americans could not yet claim the advantages it was supposed to 
secure. This view was, of course, emphatically objected to, and the prefect, 
moreover, was informed that the Commodore was not willing to discuss with 
him the subject of the interpretation of the treaty, as it did not concern him. 



INTERCOURSE AT SIMODA. 493 

It was then proposed by the prefect that the matter complained of should be 
submitted to the commissioners for their arbitration. This was peremptorily 
declined, and an immediate apology for the outrage, or a categorical refusal, 
insisted upon. The Japanese official was not yet willing to come directly 
to the point, and lingered in the discussion of the minor details of the ques- 
tion, in the course of which he stated that it was a Japanese custom to 
appoint guards for the protection of strangers. He was then indignantly 
told that the Americans required no such protection, as they were well able 
to protect themselves on all occasions, and that one of the articles of the 
treaty was framed for the express purpose of securing freedom from that 
very surveillance alluded to. The prefect was then emphatically assured 
that the Americans would never submit with impunity to such treatment, as 
it was not only an infringement of the stipulations of the treaty, but a vio- 
lation of the laws of hospitality, and an outrage. The prefect now disavowed 
the whole proceeding, saying that his subordinates had acted upon their own 
responsibility and without his knowledge, and that he regretted its occurrence. 
This apology was, of course, accepted, with a reminder, however, that for the 
future the Commodore could make no distinction between the prefect's own 
acts and those of his subordinates, but that the former would be held respon- 
sible in all cases. 

The prefect then expressed a desire to restrict the stay of officers during 
the night on shore to cases of necessity, but any such qualification of the 
privilege was positively denied; and as the Japanese "could not, of course, 
judge of the necessity which might require the American officers to remain 
on shore, they must decide that for themselves." 

All difficulty now being removed, there was no further interruption to 
the friendly intercourse between the people of Simoda and their American 
visitors. There were daily and most intimate relations with the authorities, 
who seemed anxious to facilitate the views of the Commodore, and superin- 
tend the supplying of his vessels with water, and all the provisions their 
scant resources afforded. As the day was now approaching the 9th of May, 
which had been appointed for meeting the Japanese officials at Hakodadi, 
the Commodore took his departure for that place in his flag-ship, the Pow- 
hatan, accompanied by the steamer Mississippi. The Macedonian, Vandalia, 
and Southampton had sailed previously for the same port. The store-ship 
Supply was left at Simoda. Previous to the Commodore's departure, he had 
offered a passage to the interpreter Tatsnoske, or any other Japanese person- 
age whose presence might be required at Hakodadi ; this offer, however, was 
declined, as, with their usual ceremonious obedience to their superiors, they 
were fearful of taking any step, however trifling in itself, without being for 
tified by the authority of the imperial government. The Commodore had 
now been twenty-five days in the harbor of Simoda, and as much of his time 
had been spent in tedious negotiation with the local authorities, who perti- 



494 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

naciously disputed at every step what had been previously conceded by 
their superiors, he was glad to vary the dull business in which he had been 
necessarily involved by the disputatiousness of the prefect of Simoda and his 
satellites. He had, however, succeeded in making a thorough survey of the 
harbor, had acquired a considerable knowledge of the place and its resources, 
and, above all, impressed the people with a just idea of the friendly relations 
he wished to establish with them, and taught the authorities that no infringe- 
ment, in the slightest degree, of the stipulations of the treaty of Yoku- 
hama would be allowed to pass with impunity. 

On leaving the outer harbor, Oho-sima and other islands of the cluster, 
lying at the entrance of the Gulf of Yedo, came into full sight. For the 
sake of examining the former, and observing more closely the volcano on it, 
the steamers were steered so as to pass near its southern end. The volcano 
was in a state of active eruption, and there seemed to be either several cra- 
ters, or one of great extent, as the vapor and smoke could be seen rising at 
short intervals and at different places along the crest of a ridge of mountains 
which extended to a distance of four or five miles. After passing Oho-sima, 
the steamers hauled up for Cape King, for the purpose of establishing the 
position of that important headland by the meridian observations. Up to 
the southern end of Oho-sima there was but little current discovered, but 
after reaching the channel between that island and Cape King it was ob- 
served to run with considerable rapidity in a direction nearly east, and on 
doubling the Capes its velocity increased still more. 

In running along the coast between Capes Susaki, Serofama, and Fira- 
tatsi, or as the last is most generally called, Cape King, the three prominent 
southern headlands of the promontory of Awa, there was a good view of the 
land, and every one was struck with the extraordinary extent and perfection 
of its cultivation. Every portion of earth, from the base to the very sum- 
mits of the mountains, was terraced and planted with grain, and innumerable 
towns and villages were seen crowding, in all directions, the hill sides and 
the valleys. 

Cape King, Firatatsi, the southeastern extremity of the island of Nip- 
pon, and included within the district of Awa, is in latitude 34° 53' 15" 
north, and in longitude 140° 18' 50" east, according to the observations 
taken on board the steamers Powhatan and Mississippi during the voyage. 
The headland, which forms the cape, runs off in an easterly direction to a 
low point that rises gradually inland, and about two miles from the extrem- 
ity of this point is a cone-shaped elevation crowned by a tuft of trees. A 
little more than half way between Cape King and Cape Sirofama, near the 
shore, is another conical hill, also topped with trees, which offers a good 
land-mark. A strange navigator, first making this part of the Japanese 
coast, might mistake Cape King for an island. Vessels bound to Simoda 
from the east should endeavor to make Capo King, and after getting it to bear 




V 









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Shanghae 







KURO-SIWO — JAPANESE GULF-STREAM. 495 

north, at a distance of six miles, should steer for the southern end of Oho- 
sima, which can he seen, in this position, in clear weather. After passing 
the southern end of Oho-sima, the navigator should steer west for the har- 
bor. No specific account is here given of the currents, which are rapid and 
irregular throughout the Grulf of Yedo. The only sure guides, therefore, 
are the charts, the cross-bearings of the more prominent islands, and a good 
look-out. Along this part of the coast, the influence of the stream, called 
by the Japanese, Kuro-siivo, was quite perceptible. It never ceases to run 
in a northeasterly direction. 

On this current the observations of our officers are particularly interest- 
ing. A detailed report thereon, was made by Lieutenant Bent. We here 
present merely the general results attained by the gentlemen of the expe- 
dition. They found on the coast of Japan a stream analogoug, in many re- 
spects, to the " gulf stream " on our Atlantic coast. 

This commences on the south end of the island of Formosa, and is un- 
doubtedly part of the great equatorial current of the Pacific. The larger 
portion of this current, when it reaches the point just named, passes off into 
the China sea ; while the other part is deflected to the northward, passing 
along the eastern coast of Formosa, where its strength and character are 
unequivocally shown, and extending itself, at times, as far to the eastward 
as the Lew Chew islands, where the increased temperature of the water 
shows the presence of a torrid current. Its northwardly course, however, 
continues as far as the parallel of 26°, when it bears off to the northward 
and eastward, washing the whole southeastern coast of Japan as far as the 
Straits of Sangar, and increasing in strength as it advances. At the chain 
of islands south of the Gulf of Yedo, about the meridian of 140° E., its 
maximum strength on one occasion was observed to be seventy-two, seventy- 
four, and eighty miles per diem, respectively, on three successive days. 
From the south end of Formosa to the Straits of Sangar, its average velo- 
city was found to be from thirty-five to forty miles per day, at all seasons 
when our ships traversed it. Its precise width south of the Gulf of Yedo 
was not satisfactorily ascertained, but enough was discovered to make it 
certain that it reaches to the southward of Fatsicio, and it extends perhaps 
even to the Bonin Islands in latitude 26° N. 

In the latitude of 40° N. and to the eastward of the meridian 143° E. 
the stream turns more to the eastward, and thus allows a cold counter- 
current to intervene between it and the southern coast of the island of 
Ye?so. Our hydrographers could not positively ascertain the fact, but they 
believed that this hyperborean current, found on the coast of Yesso, passes to 
the westward through the Straits of Sangar down through the Japan sea, 
between Corea and the Japanese islands, finding an outlet through the For- 
mosa channel into the China sea. The data they had. together with the 



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496 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

known fact that a strong southwardly current prevails between Formosa and 
the coast of China, particularly during the northeast monsoon, when the north- 
wardly current along the east coast of Formosa continues unimpeded, would 
seem to give probability to this conjecture of the gentlemen. The south- 
west monsoon may possibly affect this counter-current, and force it to mingle 
its waters with those of the Kuro-siwo, or " Japanese gulf stream," between 
the north end of Formosa and the southwest extremity of Japan. The 
Vandalia was ordered from Hakodadi, to pass westward through the Straits 
of Sangar and proceed to China, on the western side of Japan. One object 
of this was to make observations on current and temperature ; but, unfortu- 
nately, the Commodore left China before the report was made, and it has 
never reached him. 

The existence of this counter-current, however, is so well known by ves- 
sels trading on the coast of China, that they seldom attempt to heai to the 
northward through the Formosa channel, but usually make the passage to 
the eastward of Formosa during adverse winds, even though such winds 
may be stronger on the east side of the island than in the Formosa channel. 
Lieutenant Bent traced also some striking analogies between this Kuro- 
siwo (great stream) of Japan, and our gulf stream. His observations were 
strikingly confirmatory of the views that have been expressed both by Mr. 
Bedfield and Lieutenant M. F. Maury, as to the cause of the deflection of 
the Atlantic gulf stream to the eastward, and the cold counter-current be- 
low or between it and the shore. The first is not caused by the water im- 
pinging on land, and being thereby turned to the east, but by the greater 
rotative velocity of the latitudes at and near the equator, which throw the 
gulf stream eastward ; and the second is produced by the tardy rotation of 
the high latitudes operating on the cold counter-current setting southward 
from the pole and throwing it to the west, along the shores and soundings 
of our Atlantic coast. The Grand Bank itself, Mr. Bedfield thinks, is less 
a cause than an effect. Now there are precisely similar currents, warm and 
cold, with the same relative position, too, on the coast of Japan. It may be 
that the first northward direction of both currents may be produced by the 
configuration of the eastern sides of America and Asia respectively, but 
their turn to the eastward afterwards is probably not influenced by any 
agency of the land in its shape or position. 

There are other analogies which Mr. Bent remarked. These are found 
in the strata of cold water in the gulf stream, marked by professor Bache 
on the charts of the coast survey in the report of 1853, and corresponding 
strata, derived entirely from the observations made on our Japan expedition. 
A comparison of temperatures of the two streams (Atlantic and Pacific) 
showed a striking coincidence. The maximum was the same ; but in the 
Kuro-siwo, the difference between its temperature and that of the ocean, 



VOYAGE TO HAKODADI. 497 

proper to the latitude where taken, was somewhat greater than in the gulf 
stream. 

There is also a sea-weed floating in the Kuro-siwo, similar in appearance 
to the fucus natans of the gulf stream ; specimens of it were collected, 
but unfortunately lost before reaching the hands of the scientific botanists 
to whom it was to be submitted. We cannot therefore say it was the same 
plant in the classifications of science ; but to a sailor's eye there was no 
diflPerence between it and the weed of the gulf stream. Lieutenant M. F. 
Maury is of the opinion that this current in the Pacific has its origin in the 
Indian Ocean, where the temperature is much greater than in the Caribbean 
sea, and where the waters, obstructed on the north by tropical lands, must 
somewhere make a current by which to escape ; but this supposition appears 
to us questionable. 

While steering along the shore to the northward, the steamers, being 
about six miles from the land, and off Isomura, approached a fleet of fishing- 
boats, where there was noticed a discoloration of the water and an unusual 
drift of sea-weed. Soundings were then taken with the deep-sea-lead, and 
seventy-four, and then eighty fathoms, with a bottom of fine black sand, 
were/ound. The vessels still continuing to run along the shore within five 
or six miles, and Dai-ho-saki or White Cape being made, another cluster 
of fishing-boats was noticed under sail, apparently trailing for fish. About 
them the water was observed broken and discolored, and when the steamers 
had reached within a mile of the spot, their engines were stopped, and the 
lead again thrown, when soundings were obtained in thirty fathoms, coral 
bottom. The ships' course being changed from northeast by east to south- 
east, and running slowly and cautiously, they came suddenly on the eastern 
edge of the broken water into twenty-one fathoms, with what is called over- 
falls, and a bottom of coral as before. There seemed every reason to 
believe, from these indications, that there was a dangerous ledge lying 
directly in the way along the coast, at a distance from the land where such 
a danger would be hardly looked for. The Commodore would have an- 
chored and examined this ledge had it not been for the near approach of 
night ; and as for waiting until next day, the necessity of being at Hako- 
dadi on the 19th of May, made it advisable not to lose any time by delay. 
It is true, with good weather, there was every reason to expect that the 
voyage might be accomplished in a day or two before the time appointed, 
but with the frequency of fogs about the Straits of Sangar, and the experi- 
ence of the vexatious detentions caused by those annoyances, there could be 
no certainty in the calculation. 

During the day-time the course was kept along the coast, although at night 

the ships were hauled a little ofi". On the 15th of May, Cape Kurosaki 

came into sight, with its elevated peaks in the interior covered with snow. 

The atmosphere was fresh and invigorating, the mean temperature of the 

32 



498 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

air being 59° of Fahrenheit, and that of the water 55°. The water was 
perfectly smooth, with an oily aspect from the surface, being covered with a 
substance which was supposed to be the excrement of whales, of which 
large numbers of various kinds, as well as of porpoises, were seen. At 
daylight, on the 16th, the course was shaped at an angle approaching the 
coast, and although the land had been for awhile out of sight, it was now 
again made, and traced along until the ships reached the northeastern 
extremity of Nippon, called by the Japanese Sirija Saki. The southern 
and eastern coast of Japan from Cape Sirofama, as far as was observed, 
is not so high as that on the western side of the Gulf of Yedo. It is, 
however, of sufficient height to be observed, in tolerably clear weather, at 
a distance of forty miles. On getting abreast of Cape Sirija Saki, the 
Strait of Sangar, which separates Nippon from Yesso, was full in view, with 
the high land of the latter island distinctly visible ahead. The course was now 
steered directly for Hakodadi, but on getting into the middle of the strait 
a current or tide was encountered, which probably accelerated the eastern 
one, until the two reached a combined velocity of six knots. This power- 
ful current prevented the steamers from reaching port that night, and it 
was thought advisable to put the heads of the steamers seaward. ^This 
would not have been necessary if any reliance could have been placed upon 
the continuance of clear weather. The engines were so managed as to 
expend little coal, and still to retain the position of the vessels ; consequent- 
ly, on taking the cross-bearings at daylight, it was found, notwithstanding 
the current, that the ships had not shifted their places a mile from where 
they had been when night set in. 

Scarcely, however, had the steamers stood again for their destined port 
when a dense fog came on and obscured every object from sight, so that it 
was found necessary to head the steamers towards the east. The sun, how- 
ever, on approaching the zenith, cleared away the fog, and fortunately bearings 
were distinguished which served as a guide to the port. As the cape, called 
by the Japanese Surro-kubo, and which the Commodore named Cape Blunt, 
in honor of his friends Edmund and George Blunt, of New York, was 
approached, there could be discerned over the neck of land which connects 
the promontory of Treaty Point * with the interior, the three ships of the 
squadron which had been previously cispatched, safely at anchor in the 
harbor of Hakodadi. At the approach of the steamers, in obedience to the 
previous instructions of the Commodore, boats came off from the ships with 
officers prepared to pilot in the Powhatan and Mississippi, which finally came 
to anchor at nine o'clock on the morning of the 17th of May. 

The spacious and beautiful bay of Hakodadi, which for accessibility and 
safety is one of the finest in the world, lies on the north side of the Strait 

* So called on the American charts. 




■\>y-* iii^! f ' (i' ' , 



HARBOR OF HAKODADI. 499 

of Sangar, which separates the Japanese islands of Nippon and Yesso, and 
about midway between Sirija-saki,* the northeast point of the former and 
the city of Matsmai. The bay bears from the cape N.W. ^ W. distant 
about forty-five miles, and is four miles wide at its entrance and runs five 
miles into the land. 

The navigation of the Straits of Sangar, as far as it was examined by 
the officers of the expedition, proved to be safe and convenient, and the 
entrauce to the port of Hakodadi as accessible as that of Simoda, which is 
saying everything in its favor. Like Simoda, Hakodadi has an outer and 
inner harbor, the former being formed by the bay, which is somewhat of 
horse-shoe shape. And here, too, as at Simoda, a dangerous obstruction 
was timely discovered and buoyed out, consisting of a long spit of shoal 
water, making out from the centre of the town to an extent of about twelve 
hundred yards. The inner harbor is the southeastern arm of the bay, and 
is completely sheltered, with regular soundings and excellent holding ground. 
For expansiveness and safety from all winds it has not its superior in the 
world, with anchorage of five to seven fathoms, and room to moor a hundred 
sail. The inner harbor is formed by a bold peaked promontory standing 
well out from the high land of the main, with which it is connected by a low 
sandy isthmus, giving it, consequently, in the distance, the appearance of 
an island. It may be readily recognized by the navigator from the outline 
of the land, and, on approaching from the eastward, after passing Cape 
Suro-kubo, or Cape Blunt, which forms a conspicuous headland, twelve 
miles east by south from the town, the junks at anchor in the harbor will 
be visible over the low isthmus. 

To enter the harbor the navigator must, after rounding the promontory 
of Hakodadi, and giving it a berth of a mile to avoid the calms under the 
headland, steer for the sharp peak of Komaga-daki, bearing about north, 
until the east peak of the saddle bearing about N.E. by N., opeus to the 
westward of the round knob on the side of the mountain ; then haul up to 
the northward and eastward, keeping them open until the centre of the sand 
hills on the isthmus, which may be recognized by the dark knolls upon them, 
bears S. E. by E. f E. This will clear a spit which makes out from the 
western point of the town in a north-northwesterly direction, two-thirds of a 
mile. Though this spit would be a danger in entering the harbor, it, in 
fact, makes the anchorage more safe by its forming a natural breakwater, 
sheltering vessels at anchor inside of it from all inconvenient swell. Then 
bring the sand hills a point on the port bow, and stand in until the western 
extremity of the town bears S. W. ^ W., when the best berth will be secured 
with five-and-a-haif or six fathoms water. If it should be desirable to get a 

* S:iki, in the Japanese language, means " cape ; " consequently it should more prop- 
ei'ly be called Cape Sirija. 



500 



EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 



little nearer in, haul up a little to the eastward of south for the low rocky 
peak which will be just visible over the sloping ridge to the southward and 
eastward of the town. A vessel of moderate draught may approach within 
a quarter of a mile of Tsuki Point, where there is a building yard for 
junks. This portion of the harbor is generally crowded with native vessels, 
and unless the want of repairs, or some other cause, renders a close berth 
necessary, it is better to remain further out. 

If the peak or saddle should be obscured by clouds or fog after doubling 
the promontory, it will be necessary to steer N. by E |^ E., until the sand 
hills are brought upon the bearing previously given, when it will be proper 
to proceed as there directed. A short distance from the tail of the spit is 
a detached sand bank, with three-and-a-half fathoms of water upon it, the 
outer edge of which was marked by the officers of the expedition with a 
white spar buoy. Between this and the spit there is a narrow channel, with 
five or six fathoms' depth of water. Vessels may pass on either side of the 
buoy, but it is more prudent to go to the northward of it. Should the 
wind fail before reaching the harbor, there will be found a good anchorage 
in the outer roads, with a depth of from ten to twenty-five fathoms. 




CuiuicU Creek, L.;iy ui llakud 



- :^- ^-t;- 






iy the 
"''ixPEDITIO]^ 




CHAPTER XXIII. 



Visit from the authorities at Hakodadi. — Their ignorance that a treaty had been made. — Visit to authori- 
ties, and explanation of affairs to tlie Japanese. — Answer of tlie officials at Ilakodadi. — Their friendli- 
ness and courtesy. — Visits and rambles of the Americans on shore. — Houses allotted for their tempo- 
rary accommodation.— Description of Hakodadi. — Resemblance to Gibraltar.— Cleanliness of streets. 
— Pavements and sewers. — Division into districts under Ottonas. — Pack horses used, no wheel car- 
riages. — Town very thriving. — Buildings described. — Preparations against fires in the city. — Skill of 
carpenters and house-joiners. — Shops, their construction and goods. — Carvings in wood. — Furniture. — 
Chairs and tables. — Fashion in eating. — Tea, how prepared, fire for boiling tlie kettle. — Kitchens, sta- 
bles, and gardens. — Fire-proof warehouses. — Traffic at the shops. — Buddhist temples. — Grave-yards. — 
Praying by machinery, — Inscriptions on Tombs. — Sintoo temples. — Shrines by the way-side. — Gate- 
ways on the roads. — Prospects for Christianity in Japan. — Weak military defences of Hakodadi. — Sur- 
rounding countrj'. — Look-out for ships approaching. — Japanese telescope. — Geology of the country. — 
Mineral spring. — Natural cave. — Culinary vegetables. — Commerce and fisheries. — Japanese junks. — 
Ship yards.— Few birds. — Fish abundant.' — Wild quadrupeds. — Fox considered as the devil. — Horses 
uiucli used. — Kagos. — Climate of Hakodadi. — Population and physical characteristics of the people. — 
Ainos or hairy Knriles. — Mechanical skill of the Japanese.— Carpentry and masonry. — Coopers. — Iron 
ore workers. — Blacksmitlis, their bellows. — Copper much used in junk building. — Spinning and weav- 
ing. — Dyed cottons. — Silk fabrics. — Lacquered ware. — Printing, drawing, and painting. ^ — Sculpture. — 
Architecture. — General intelligence. — Information, derived through the Dutch at Nagasaki, from Eu- 
ropean publications.— Japanese game of chess.— Cards,— Loto.— Ball and Jackstraws among the 
children. 



with the 



HE steamers liad been 
at anchor hut a few 
hours when a boat, 
which, from the usual 
black striped flag and 
emblazoned standard at 
the stern, was known to 
be a government craft, 
was seen slowly to ap- 
proach the flag-ship. 
Her build was very 
much like those boats 
elsewhere seen, but of 
a heavier make and 
clumsier model. Her 
eight boatmen were 
dressed in the livery — 
dark blue and white — 
and marked on the back 
arms of the dignitary in whose service they were. Their boat was 




1 + 




fp: 



Surveyed Ijyfhe 
, OmCERS ohhi-irs KXPEDITIOIV 
I toJAPAN . 

1«53 ;:l 




„ "? 



Scale a£ mie Hauiic Mile 



502 EXPEDITIONTOJAPAN. 

rowed instead of being sculled, and made less speed than was usual with the 
Japanese government boats. As soon as it arrived alongside of the Pow- 
hatan several Japanese officials came on board. On their arrival they were 
presented with the letter the Commodore bore from the Japanese commis- 
sioners, and a copy of the treaty in the Chinese language. They stated that 
the officers from Yedo, who had been delegated to meet the Americans at 
Hakodadi, had not yet come ; and that the people had been greatly alarmed 
at the arrival of the ships, as there had been no previous intimation of the 
intended visit of the squadron, and they had not even heard of the treaty, 
or of the opening of Simoda. The Japanese officials were then informed that 
on the next day a delegation of his officers would be sent by the Commo- 
dore on shore to confer with the authorities. 

Preparations were immediately made, on the arrival of the steamers, for 
a complete survey of the harbor, and this having once been begun was car- 
ried on diligently during the stay of the ships, until a very effectual exam- 
ination of the whole harbor was made, as had been the case at Simoda. 

On the succeeding morning, (May 18,) as had been appointed, the flag- 
lieutenant, accompanied by two American interpreters, Mr. Williams and 
Mr. Portman, and the Commodore's secretary, paid a visit to the governor. 
On their arrival at the government house, the governor Yendo Matzaimon 
presented himself in company with Ishuka Konzo and Kudo Mogoro, two 
of the principal personages of his suite. The Americans were received with 
the usual ceremonious courtesies, and, being seated in a handsome hall with 
the ordinary appointments of a Japanese apartment, were ready to proceed 
at once to business. The governor was a middle-aged man, with a very be 
nevolent expression of face, and of the characteristic mild and courteous 
manners; and his companions, though obsequious in the presence of their 
superiors, were also very creditable specimens of Japanese gentlemen. The 
conference hall was large, and opened by a wide open doorway from a nar- 
row courtyard, in which could be seen various entrances with carved wood 
cornices, and stair-cases leading to other apartments of the building. 
Windows and doorlights, constructed in form like our own, but with paper 
panes, lighted the place, and handsome mats carpeted the floor, while there 
was but the ordinary meagre supply of furniture, consisting only of a half 
dozen camp stools. A shallow recess at one end of the room, with an 
elaborate carved moulding along the border, contained the usual arm-chair 
and idols, showing it to be dedicated to the rites both of hospitality and of 
family worship. Attendants frequently passed in and out with supplies of 
tea, cakes, confectionary, pipes and tobacco, and the governor and his com- 
panions were never forgetful of their duties as hosts, but politely pressed 
their guests at every moment to refresh themselves. 

The American officers now explained the object of their visit, and stated 
in effect that the Commodore had come to Hakodadi with his squadron to 



HAKODADI. 503 

carry out the stipulations of the treaty between the United States and Ja- 
pan, agreed upon on the 81st of March, and that any deviation from the 
spirit and letter of that treaty on the part of the authorities of Yesso would 
lead to serious consequences. It was then demanded that arrangements 
should be made at Hakodadi, as had been at Simoda, securing to the Ameri- 
cans the privilege of going where they chose, through the streets or out into 
the country, into the shops and public buildings. It was further required 
that the shopkeepers and market people should be allowed to sell their ar- 
ticles, and that a temporary currency be established for the mutual conve- 
nience of buyer and seller ; that three different houses or temples be appro- 
priated by the authorities as places of resort severally for the Commodore, 
the ofl&cers, and the artists of the expedition ; that such supplies as the 
country afforded be furnished to the ships according to a fixed tariff of 
prices, and that not only articles of necessity, but those productions of 
Yesso and specimens of natural history which might be objects of curiosity 
and interest in America, be also provided, for which a just price would be 
paid. 

The governor, on hearing these demands, asked for a delay until the 
officers appointed by the commissioners, whom the Commodore had stated 
he expected, should arrive with instructions from Yedo. The governor 
accounted for the delay in the arrival of the Japanese officials by the long 
distance of the capital from Hakodadi, saying that it was a journey of thirty- 
seveij days' Iciigth in winter and thirty in summer. He also declared that 
he had no special commands himself but what were contained in the letter 
presented by the Commodore, which merely commended the Americans to 
the ordinary welcome and good treatment, and enjoined upon the authori- 
ties to supply the ships with provisions and water. After some discussion, 
in the course of which the American officers reiterated their demands and 
the governor his objections, it was agreed that the views of the authorities 
of Hakodadi should be stated at length in writing, and submitted next day 
for the consideration of the Commodore. 

Accordingly, on the succeeding morning, the following communication 
was received from the governor and his coadjutors : " Hakodadi is an out- 
lying, remote region, and its population sparse and ignorant, so that when 
your honorable ships arrived recently in this place, all, both old and young, 
fled away into the interior, although the local officers ordered them not to 
scatter." 

" You have come to this place under the impression doubtless that it 
was an extensive region and well settled, not with the least desire to rob or 
rudely force your way into it without permission. The common peoiDle 
here being ignorant and easily alarmed, we have been unable to get them to 
come before us, so that we could instruct them in this matter personally, 
for such is their waywardness; and it accounts for their timidity, as you saw 



504 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

yesterday when you and other officers went through the streets, and for 
there being no business doing. But 'after this you may go on shore, no 
obstructions will be put in the way of your walking, nor will the people be 
rude to you." 

'' This place is as it were no bigger than a pill or a speck, and the coun- 
try in its vicinity is sterile, and produces almost nothing. The provisions 
and other necessaries are brought from other principalities, quite unlike the 
rich regions of Simoda and Uraga, and we fear the list now given, (deer 
skins, dried fish, fish oil, salt salmon, surume, a sort of fish, saccharine fucus 
laminaria, and a roe of salmon,) meagre as it is, will by no means meet your 
desires after you have examined it, but rather dissatisfy you. As for what 
has been hitherto supplied no prices are asked." 

" Yesterday you spoke of maintaining friendly relations with us, and this 
surely involves the duty on both sides of adhering to right, and nothing 
should be done to hinder amicable feelings. We are placed here in charge 
of the public halls, and to rule the people, as our chief duty, which cannot 
be evaded ; and though to let you have the halls as you desire might be 
agreeable to you, yet the result would be very heavy and serious to us, and 
the people would hardly know to whom to look as their rulers. If you 
press the matter to this degree, and insist on three buildings, will it be 
consistent with your professions of friendship ? " 

" Yesterday, your gentlemen explained to us several particulars having 
reference to intercourse with us, to wit : that on the 31st of March a treaty 
was formed at Yoku-hama, between the high officers of our respective coun- 
tries, and in compliance with that, you had come to Hakodadi to carry its 
provisions into effect, in the same manner as had been done at Simoda, re- 
specting trade and procuring three houses for resting at, and wherein to make 
drawings." 

"It is a matter of great surprise to us that, since a treaty has been 
formed at Yoku-hama, no orders or letters have reached us from court on 
this matter, nor did the communication you brought us from Uraga contain 
any reference or explanation on these points, which we now learn from your- 
selves for the first time. Yet, to follow out a course of action ourselves, 
before receiving any directions from the throne, is a very serious matter, we 
can assure you ; for the undeviating usage of all our principalities is first to 
attend to those commands, and can we here be expected to transgress it ? 
Whether the matter be of great or small moment, if it appertain to the 
state, it must be referred to the prince, and he makes a clear statement to the 
Emperor, and acts after he obtains special commands. You yourselves, gen- 
tlemen, after all your experience at Yoku-hama and Simoda, cannot but be 
aware that such is the usage and law in this country. Yet such articles of 
provisions as we have here, eggs, fowls, green fish, ducks, and other commodi- 
ties, as well as rambling about the country, going into villages, markets and 



r 



DESCRIPTION OF HAKODADI. 505 

shops, albeit they are contemptible and dilapidated, mean and rude, quite 
beneath the slightest regard or care, are temporarily allowed, and that which 
you require will be furnished." 

After the flag-lieutenant, who had been delegated to receive the above 
communication, had explained in regard to the " hall " alluded to, that it 
was only desired by the Commodore to use those parts of the temples usual- 
ly appropriated to lodgers, as temporary places of resort, and not to take 
possession of their ecclesiastical establishments, the governor seemed greatly 
relieved, as he evidently supposed that it was the intention in some way to 
interfere with their national worship. The governor then having announced 
that it was the intention of " Matsmai Kangeayou, great officer of the fami- 
ly of the Prince of Matsmai," to call upon the Commodore next day, the 
American officers took their leave. 

After this preliminary negotiation, the officers of the ships began daily 
to visit the land, and they walked freely through the streets, frequented the 
shops and temples, and strolled without interference into the neighboring 
country. Three houses were finally, after several conferences, assigned, one 
for the accommodation of the Commodore, another for his officers, and a 
third for the artists, and a bazaar opened daily, where the various articles 
of Japanese art and manufacture could be obtained at fair prices, a dollar, 
which is equal to about three of their silver coins, called itchahoo, passing 
current for 4,800 copper cash. With this greater freedom of intercourse 
on shore, the Americans soon became tolerably acquainted with Hakodadi 
and its people, and we may here appropriately introduce some description 
of them, while we intermit for the present the relation of the further pro- 
gress of the tedious negotiations with the authorities. 

The town of Hakodadi, or Hakodate,* lies on the southern coast of the 
island of Yesso, in latitude 41° 49' 22" north, and longitude 140° 47' 45'^ 
east, being situated on the western bank of a small peninsula, which forms 
one side of the harbor. The meaning of the Japanese word Hakodadi is 
" box shop," but what gave rise to the name it is not easy to understand, as 
some of the best informed inhabitants themselves seem unacquainted with 
the origin of the term. The appearance of the place on entering the harbor 
is striking and picturesque. The town stretches for the space of three miles 
along the base of a lofty promontory divided into three principal peaks, 
which reach a height of from six hundred to a thousand feet. Their lofty 
summits are bare, and often covered with snow j their upper slopes are but 
scantily clothed with underwood and some scattered pines, while below, 
where the mountains begin to rise from the level land, there is a rich profu- 
sion of verdant growth, with groves of wide-spreading cypresses, tall forest 
maples and fruit-bearing trees, the plum and the peach. This abundant 

* Golownin, in his " Recollections," calls the town Chakodade, but erroneously. 



506 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

vegetation presents a pleasing contrast to the bolder and more barren aspect 
of the higher acclivities and summits of the surrounding hills. The town 
thus appears to be nestling in repose under the cover of the shade of the 
trees in the midst of a scene of rural beauty, while all around in the dis- 
tance is the wild, bleak massiveness of nature. A low, sandy isthmus, scan- 
tily verdant here and there with a few patches of kitchen gardens, connects 
the peninsula upon which the houses are built to the main land. Coarse, 
hard rocks of trachyte, thrown up by volcanic agency, separate the alluvial 
sand from the mountainous region in the interior, and add to the wildness 
of the scene. The Japanese have quarried the rocks here and there, and 
various hewn surfaces, with cut blocks lying about, prove the art and busy 
industry of the people. These quarries supply them with stone for con- 
structing their sea walls, jetties, dykes, foundations for their houses, and 
other building purposes. 

The town contains over a thousand houses, which mostly stretch along 
in one main thoroughfare near the seaside, while the remainder, forming two 
or three parallel streets, hang upon the ascent of the hill in the rear. 
Every one on board the ships who had visited Gibraltar was struck with the 
resemblance of Hakodadi, from its position and general aspect, to that 
famous fortified town. There was the isolated hill, on the base and accliv- 
ity of which the houses were built corresponding to the rock of Gibraltar ; 
there was the low neck of land reaching to the elevated region beyond, 
like the neutral ground which separates the English fortress from the Span- 
ish territory, and a receding country and capacious bay surrounding Hako- 
dadi, as well as Gibraltar, to strengthen the resemblance between the two. 
Moreover, the position of the Japanese town on the Strait of Sangar, with 
the high land of Nippon and its towns of Say and Mimaga at the south, like 
that of Gibraltar, overlooking the narrow channel which connects the At- 
lantic and Mediterranean, and commands the opposite and elevated coast of 
Africa, with the towns of Tangier and Ceuta clothing its heights, served to 
confirm the similarity of features with which every one whose travelled ex- 
perience allowed of comparison was greatly impressed. 

Hakodadi belongs to the imperial fief of Matsmai, and is the largest 
town on the island of Yesso, with the exception of Matsmai, from which it 
is distant about thirty miles in an easterly direction. An excellent road 
not far from the seacoast connects the two places, and a large trade is car- 
ried on between them and by both with several small towns on the island of 
Nippon, on the southern side of the Strait of Sangar, or, as it should be 
properly called, T sugar a. 

The town of Hakodadi is regularly built with streets running at right 
angles with each other. They are between thirty and forty feet in width, 
and are carefully macadamized to allow of the proper draining of water. 
There are open gutters on each side, which receive the drippings of the 



HAKODADI. 507 

houses and the washings of the streets, and also well constructed sewers, 
through which the surplus water and the refuse are poured into the bay. 
The side walks, which are frequently paved, are curbed with stone planted 
on edge as with us, but as no wheeled carriages are found in the town, the 
middle of the street is used indiscriminately in dry weather by the pedes- 
trian. Hakodadi, like all the Japanese towns, is remarkably clean, the 
streets being suitably constructed for draining, and kept, by constant 
sprinkling and sweeping, in a neat and healthful condition. Wooden 
picket fences with gates cross the streets at short intervals ; these are 
opened for the passage of the people during the day, but closed at night. 
The same municipal regulations obtain in Hakodadi as in all the other 
towns of Japan ; the inhabitants of the several streets form so many 
separate communities, as it were, responsible for the conduct of each other, 
each governed by an official called '' ottona," who is also held responsible for the 
good order of the people under his especial charge, and these ottonas are also 
made responsible for the conduct of each other. The gates and picket 
fences would seem to mark out the separate fields of duty of these officials. 
At one side of the street, among the houses, there is ordinarily a sentry-box for 
a watchman, whose duty it is to guard the town against disturbance, and give 
early notice of the occurrence of fire. A general quiet pervades the streets 
without those ordinary signs of busy activity which belong to a trading 
city. No carriages or laden wagons rumble along the road, no clamorous 
dealers claim the preference of the purchase of their wares, no busy pedlars 
or itinerant hucksters cry their articles for sale, and no turbulent mob dis- 
turbs the general peace and tranquillity. An almost universal quiet pre- 
vails in the streets, broken only at times by a stout horse-boy yelling to his 
obstinate beast of burden, either an unruly nag or lumbering ox, and an offi- 
cious attendant of some great man shouting out to the people to prostrate 
themselves before his coming master, or perhaps the clanging of the ham- 
mer of a workman busy in some neighboring forge. Still the stranger is 
impressed with the idea that Hakodadi is a thriving town, when he beholds 
the occasional droves of laden pack-horses slowly pacing through the 
streets, the hundreds of junks at anchor in the harbor, the numerous boats 
rapidly gliding across the bay, and the many richly dressed two-sworded 
Japanese gentlemen and officials pompously stalking about or riding richly 
caparisoned horses. 

The buildings in Hakodadi ar emostly of one story, with attics of 
varying heights. The upper part occasionally forms a commodious apart- 
ment, but is ordinarily merely a dark cockloft for the storage of goods and 
lumber, or the lodging of servants. The height of the roofs is seldom 
more than twenty-five feet from the ground. They slope down from the 
top, projecting with their eaves beyond the wall, are supported by joints and 
tie-beams, and are mostly covered with small wooden shingles of about the 



508 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

size of the hand. These shingles are fastened by means of pegs made of 
bamboo, or kept in their places by long slips of board, which have large 
rows of cobble stones put upon them to prevent their removal. The stones 
are, however, said to have the additional advantage of hastening the melting 
of the snow, which during the winter season is quite abundant at Hakodadi. 
The gable ends, as in Dutch houses, face towards the street, and the roofs 
projecting to some distance, serve as a cover and a shade to the doors. All 
the roofs of the houses in front are topped with what at first was supposed 
to be a curious chimney wrapped in straw, but which upon examination 
turned out to be a tub, protected by its straw envelope from the efi"ects of 
the weather, and kept constantly filled with water, to be sprinkled upon the 
shingled roofs, in case of fire, by means of a broom, which is always de- 
posited at hand, to be ready in an emergency. The people would seem to 
be very anxious on the score of fires, from the precautions taken against 
them. In addition to the tubs on the tops of the houses, there are wooden 
cisterns arranged along the streets, and engines kept in constant readiness. 
These latter have very much the general construction of our own, but are 
deficient in that important part of the apparatus, an air chamber, and con- 
sequently they throw the water, not with a continuous stream, but in short, 
quick jets. Fire alarms, made of a thick piece of plank, hung on posts at 
the corners of the streets, and protected by a small roofing, which are struck 
by the watchman, in case of a fire breaking oat, showed the anxious fears of 
the inhabitants, and the charred timbers and rains still remaining where a 
hundred houses had stood but a few months before, proved the necessity of 
the most careful precautions. 

A few of the better houses and the temples are neatly roofed with 
brown earthen tiles, laid in gutter form. The poorer people are forced to 
content themselves with mere thatched hovels, the thatch of which is often 
overgrown with a fertile crop of vegetables and grass, the seeds of which 
have been deposited by vagrant crows. The walls of the buildings are 
generally constructed of pine boards, fastened lengthwise, with a layer 
inside and out, to the framework, which is jointed with admirable skill. 
The boards in front and rear are made to slide horizontally in grooves like 
shutters. At night they are barred fast, and in the day-time entirely re- 
moved, to allow of the light to pass freely through the paper screens behind 
them. As in Simoda, the roofs project beyond the walls of the houses, and 
serve as a shelter, in front for the display of goods, and in the rear for the 
carrying on of various domestic operations. The Japanese wood-work is 
never painted, although in the interior of the houses it is occasionally var- 
nished or oiled; the buildings consequently have a mean and thriftless look. 
In the wintry, moist climate of Hakodadi, the effect of weather upon the 
unpainted pine boards was strikingly apparent, causing them to contract 




JAPANESE PILLOW. 




JAPANESE MUSICAL INSTEUMENTS. 




WRITING IMPLEMENTS. 



DWELLINGS AT HAKODADI. 509 

mould and rot, so that the whole town had a more rusty, ruined appearance 
than its age should indicate. 

Previous to building a house the ground is beaten smooth, and the floor 
is raised about two feet above it, leaving a space in front and by one of the 
sides, which serves for a path to the rear, and a place to store heavy goods, 
as the roof projects over and protects it from the weather. 

In the shops the whole front is often taken out to display their con- 
tents, but in the dwellings and the mechajiics' establishments, there is usual- 
ly a barred lattice of bamboo to hide the inmates from passing observation. 
Each house has a charm placed over the lintel or doorpost, consisting of 
the picture of a god, a printed prayer, or a paper inscribed with some com- 
plicated characters, designed to protect the dwelling from fire or an}^ other 
calamity. 

The raised floor, which covers nearly the whole area of the house, is 
covered with white mats made soft and thick by being lined at the bottom 
with straw. These are very neatly woven and bound with cloth, and are all 
of the uniform size prescribed by law, being three feet by six, and placed in 
rows upon the floor so neatly as to have the appearance of one piece. Up- 
on these mats the people sit to take their meals, to sell their wares, to 
smoke their pipes, to converse with their friends, and lie down at night 
without undressing themselves to go to sleep, adding, however, a quilted 
mat for a cover, and the equivocal comfort of a hard box for a pillow. 
The houses are generally lighted, as has been frequently observed, with 
windows of oiled paper, though mica and shells are occasionally used 
instead. 

The interior of the houses is plain and simple in arrangement, but always 
scrupulously neat and clean. There are in some of the better mansions oc- 
casional wood carvings of exquisite workmanship, though not very elaborate 
in design. The paper windows and sliding screens which divide the apart- 
ments are often adorned with paintings of landscape and birds. In addi- 
tion to the panels, the walls of the room are frequently hung with gaily 
painted paper, which, being arranged as rolling maps are with us, is movable 
at pleasure. The stork, or crane, a bird held sacred by the Japanese, and 
the winged tortoise, and the porpoise, or dolphin of the ancients, are favorite 
designs in all these decorations, whether of wood, carving or painting, in 
the various buildings. 

The furniture of a Japanese house is particularly meagre, consisting in- 
variably of nothing but the floor mats and the household utensils, which are 
few and simple. As squatting, not sitting, is almost the invariable prac- 
tice, there seems no occasion for chairs, although they were sometimes 
found, and invariably supplied on state occasions. These are clumsy contri- 
vances, with coarse leathern seats, and a framework like that of the com- 
mon cauip stool, which is readily folded up when not used. At the confer- 



510 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

ences with the authorities, the subordinate officers, both American and 
Japanese, were seated on sedans or benches covered with a red crape, while 
the Commodore and the highest native dignitaries were honored with stools, 
which occasionally had the comfortable addition of arms and backs to them. 
The national posture of all classes, however, in Japan, when at rest, is 
crouching either upon the knees, or on the haunches with their legs crossed. 
The latter is common among the lower classes, and is pronounced decided- 
ly vulgar by the fashionables, who invariably assume the former. 

Tables are not generally used, but on the occasion of the public enter- 
tainments given to the American officers, the narrow red crape-covered 
benches were appropriated for the spread of the feast, the dishes being raised 
to the proper height for the guest by means of the ordinary lacquered stands 
of a foot in height and fourteen inches square. The Japanese eat from 
these raised trays while squatting upon their mats, and the unsocial practice 
thus obtains of each person taking his food by himself. Some lacquered 
cups, bowls, and porcelain vessels, the invariable chopsticks, and an occa* 
sional earthenware spoon, comprise the ordinary utensils used in eating. 
They drink their soups directly out of the bowl, as a hungry child might, 
after seizing with their chopsticks the pieces of fish which are generally float- 
ing in the liquid. Their tea-kettles, which are always at hand simmering 
over the fire in the kitchen, are made of bronze, silver, or of fire proof earth- 
enware. In the centre of the common sitting room there is a square hole 
built in with tiles and filled with sand, in which a charcoal fire is always 
kept burning, and suspended above is the tea-kettle supported by a tripod. 
There is thus constantly a supply of hot water for making tea, which is 
invariably handed to the visitor on his arrival. The beverage is prepared 
as with us, but very weak. The cup is generally of porcelain, with a wooden 
lacquered cover. The tea is not ordinarily sweetened, though at Hakodadi 
sugar was often used. The better houses are warmed, but very imperfectly, 
by metal braziers placed on lacquered stands containing burning charcoal, 
which are moved readily from room to room as they may be required. In 
the cottages of the poor, there being but little ventilation from their contract- 
ed size, and no places of issue for the smoke, the burning charcoal in the 
fixed central fireplaces becomes a great nuisance. In the more pretentious 
establishments, where there is plenty of space and holes in the roof or in the 
walls for the escape of smoke, while the charcoal is not brought in until per- 
fectly ignited, this mode of heating the apartments is more endurable. At 
Hakodadi the people seemed to sufler a great deal from the wintry weather, 
the poorer classes kept much within doors, huddled about their meagre fires 
in their hovels, which, without chimneys, and with but a scant light from the 
paper windows, were exceedingly cold, gloomy, and comfortless. The richer 
people strove to make themselves more comfortable by enveloping their 



HAKODADI. 511 

bodies in a succession of warm robes, but succeeded indifferently, as they 
were constantly complaining of the severity of the weather. 

It is by the charcoal fires in the centre of the sitting apartment that 
the water for tea is boiled, the saki heated, and sundry small dishes cooked ; 
but in the larger establishments there is a kitchen besides, where the family 
cooking is got up. This is generally provided with a stove, like an ordi- 
nary French cooking apparatus, in which wood is often burned, but this is 
an article they are very economical in using. 

Connected with most of the dwellings in Hakodadi there is a yard, in 
which there are out-houses used for kitchens or stables. There is also fre- 
quently a garden where vegetables in small quantities are raised, flowers 
cultivated, and shade-trees and ornamental shrubs planted. Some of the 
leading men of the place have handsome residences upon elevated situations, 
a little back of the town. Their houses are of the ordinary construction, 
but much larger in dimensions. The superior wealth and luxurious tastes 
of their proprietors are shown chiefly in the handsome gardens and pleasure 
grounds. These are tastefully planted with fruit and shade trees, and 
bounded with green hedges, while beds of variegated flowers contrast their 
bright hues with the green verdure of the foliage and the lawns of grass. 
There seems, in the high fences which guard from the eyes of the passer by 
the sight of these luxurious delights, a desire for that privacy which betokens 
a love of retirement and a fastidious appreciation of the reserved comforts of 
home. 

As in Simoda, there are large fire-proof warehouses, used for the storage 
of valuable goods. They are built with a great deal more care than the or- 
dinary shops and other buildings, and have walls two feet thick, made of 
dried mud and cobbles, and faced with stone, while their roofs are securely 
constructed of earthen tiles. These warehouses are generally two stories in 
height, the upper one having window shutters of wood sheathed with iron. 
Their exterior is sometimes covered with a coat of fine plaster, which, with 
their substantial structure, gives them a neatness and solidity of aspect 
which contrasts greatly with the flimsy stained look of the ordinary houses. 
They are probably depots for the storage of goods which belong to the gov- 
ernment, and are kept with great care and guarded watchfully. 

The shops in Hakodadi generally contain such goods as are of a cheap 
sort, and adapted to the restricted wants of a poor population. The stock 
is made up of a miscellaneous assortment of coarse, thick cottons, inferior 
silks, common earthen and China ware, lacquered bowls, cups, stands and 
chopsticks, cheap cutlery, and ready-made clothing. Furs, leather, felted 
cloths, glass-ware, or copper articles, are rarely seen, nor are books and sta- 
tionery very common. The provision shops contain rice, wheat, barley, 
pulse, dried fish, seaweed, salt, sugar, saki, soy, charcoal, sweet potatoes, 
flour, and other less necessary articles, and all apparently in abundant quan- 



512 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

titles. There is no public market in the town, as neither beef, pork nor 
mutton are eaten, and very little poultry. Yegetables, and a preparation 
made of beans and rice flour, which has the consistency and appearance of 
cheese, are hawked about the streets, and form a considerable portion of the 
diet of the people. The signs of the shops, in accordance with the general 
practice in Japan, are inscribed on the paper windows and doors, in various 
well-known devices and cyphers, either in Chinese or Japanese characters. 
The shopmen were at first very shy, and showed but little disposition to sell 
their goods to the Americans ; but when they became somewhat more famil- 
iar with the strangers, the characteristic eagerness of tradesmen developed 
itself to the full, and the Hakodadi merchants showed themselves as clever 
at their business as any Chatham street or Bowery salesman with us. They 
bustled about the raised platform upon which they were perched, pulled out 
the drawers arranged on the walls, and displayed their goods to the greatest 
advantage when they thought there was a chance of catching the eye and 
pleasing the taste of a passing American. They were always very jealous, 
however, of their prerogatives, and were exceedingly annoyed if any of their 
purchasers stepped upon "the platform, which was their trading sanctum, and 
as carefully guarded against intrusion as the " behind the counter " of a New 
York shopman. The purchaser ordinarily stood under the roof, on the 
ground, in the space which intervened between the sidewalk and the eleva- 
ted shop floor. Some of the more impatient and intrusive Yankees, how- 
ever, would occasionally spring up, and pulling out the goods, handle them 
very unceremoniously, not, however, without a serious protest on the part 
of the sellers, who sometimes were so annoyed that ofiicial complaints were 
made by them to the authorities. The shopkeepers had always a fixed price 
for their goods, and all attempts to beat them down were useless, and gener- 
ally rebuked by an expression of displeasure. 

There are four large Buddhist temples in Hakodadi, one of which, 
called the Zhiogen-zhi, or the country's protector, is a good specimen of 
Japanese architecture. It was built by the townspeople about twenty years 
since, and is kept in excellent repair. The tiled roof rises fully sixty feet 
from the ground, and is supported by an intricate arrangement of girders, 
posts, and tie-beams, resting upon large lacquered pillars. This temple is 
one of the most conspicuous objects seen when entering the harbor. The 
principal apartment in the interior is elaborately carved and richly gilded. 
The carving and sculpture about the altar, the niches, and cornices, are of 
wood and brass, and show very skilful workmanship. The designs are dra- 
gons, phoenixes, cranes, tortoises, and other subjects associated with the re- 
ligious worship of Buddha. The main floor is elevated six feet above the 
gound, and covered, as usual, with thick mats. There are three separate 
shrines, each containing an image, the one in the nave being the largest and 
most highly adorned. A sort of architrave descends between the pillars, so 



TEMPLES OF HAKODADI. 513 

contrived that, with the aid of folding screens, the shrines may be readily 
partitioned off. There are six priests attached to the establishment, and 
their quarters and those which are provided for visitors are models of 
neatness and cleanliness. The temples in Japan, as in China, are often 
used for places of concourse or entertainment, and on such occasions the 
altars and shrines are covered or removed, which so changes the aspect of 
the interior that no one would suspect that he was in a house of worship. 
On the visit of the American squadron one of the temples was appropriated 
for a bazaar — a worldly use that the ecclesiastics, so far from objecting to 
highly approved of, as it added considerably to their revenue, the rent of 
the apartments being their perquisite on the occasion. 

In the enclosure before the Zhiogen-zhi there is a grove of large spread- 
ing cypresses, in the shade of which there are several outer buildings, and a 
shed which covers six small stone images of deities. On either side of the 
avenue which leads to the temple there are pairs of stone candelabras, and 
near by, the statue of a goddess with a child in her arms. A copper nimbus 
or glory surrounds the heads of all these idols, and reminds the Christian 
visitor of what he may have seen in some churches of his own country. 

Next to the Zhiogen-zhi, in a southerly direction, is the Zhetsa-zhi or 
True-acting monastery, an older and somewhat dilapidated building. There 
are several small sheds in the yard in front of this temple, one of which 
protects from the weather a subscription-box and a handsomely sculptured 
stone candelabra. The priests have shown considerable taste in the cul- 
tivation and arrangement of the garden and pleasure grounds in the rear 
of the building. 

Near the main street, which extends along the bay, in an enclosure 
beautifully shaded with willows and firs of remarkable growth, is the Kono- 
zhi, or High Dragon temple, so called from a large dragon carved along the 
entablature in front ; there is also a carp fish, some six feet long, skilfully 
cut out of wood, extending in an upright direction on the right side of the 
porch. This temple is a large edifice, and, although now falling to decay, 
bears in its elaborate ornaments and its expensive appointments signs of 
having been once in great esteem. Within the grounds which enclose it are 
various richly adorned gateways, stone statues, candelabras, and shrines, all 
showing more or less skilful design and workmanship. The fourth and last 
of the Buddhist temples is called the Shiomio-zhi, or the monastery of 
Buddha's name, but presents nothing of especial interest to distinguish it 
from the others. 

Each of these temples has its adjoining grave-yard, filled with tombs 
and monuments characteristic of the Japanese people and their religious be- 
lief. Near each grave, as at Simoda, there are square posts and boards, 
with the names of the dead, quotations from the canonical Buddhist books, 
lines of poetry, and moral and religious apothegms, generally referring to 
33 



514 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

the vanity of this world, and the felicity of Buddha's heaven in the next. 
There was a curious contrivance found in one of the burial places, consist- 
ing of a tall post, in which an iron wheel was inserted. The post was 
placed upright, and being square presented four surfaces, on each of which 
was one or two of the following inscriptions or prayers : 

" The great round mirror of knowledge says, ' wise men and fools are 
embarked in the same boat; ' whether prospered or afflicted, both are row- 
ing over the deep lake ; the gay sails lightly hang to catch the autumnal 
breeze ; then away they straight enter the lustrous clouds, and become par- 
takers of heaven's knowledge." 

" The believing man Hanyo Shenkaman, who no longer grows old." 

" The believing woman, once called Yuenning : Happy was the day 
she left." 

" Multitudes fill the graves." 

"To enable to enter the abodes of the perfect, and to sympathize fully 
with the men of the world, belongs to Buddha. It is only by this one 
vehicle, the coffin, we can enter Hades. There is nought like Buddha ; 
nothing at all." 

" We of the human race with hearts, minds, and understandings, when 
we read the volumes of Buddha, enjoy great advantages." 

" He whose prescience detects knowledge, says: as the floating grass is 
blown by the gentle breeze, or the glancing ripples of autumn disappear 
when the sun goes down, or as the ship returns home to her old shore, so is 
life : it is a smoke, a morning tide." 

" Buddha himself earnestly desires to hear the name of this person, (who 
is buried,) and wishes he may go to life." 

" He who has left humanity is now perfected by Buddha's name, as the 
withered moss is by the dew." 

"The canon of Buddha says, all who reach the blissful land will be- 
come so that they cannot be made to transmigrate, (or change for the 
worse.)" 

The square post upon which these inscriptions were cut was nearly eight 
feet in length, and near the centre, at a convenient height to be reached by 
the hand, was affixed, vertically, a wheel, which moved readily on an axle 
that passed through the post. Two small iron rings were strung upon each 
of the three spokes of the large wheel. Every person who twisted this in- 
strument in passing was supposed to obtain credit in heaven for one or 
more prayers on the post, the number being graduated according to the 
vigor of the performer's devotion, and the number of revolutions effected. 
The jingle of the small iron rings was believed to secure the attention of 
the deity to the invocation of the devotional, and the greater the noise, the 
more certain of its being listened to. This praying by wheel and axle 
would seem to be the very perfection of a ceremonious religion, as it reduces 




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PRAYING BY MACHINERY. 



515 



it to a system of mechanical laws, which, 
provided the apparatus is kept in order, 
a result easily obtained by a little oil, 
moderate use, and occasional repairs, can 
be readily executed with the least possi- 
ble expenditure of human labor, and with 
all that economy of time and thought 
which seems the great purpose of our ma- 
terial and mechanical age. Hue, in his 
interesting account of his travels in Thi- 
bet, speaks of an improvement on the 
machine we have described, where the ap- 
paratus was turned by water power, and 
very appropriately styles it a prayer mill. 
In the course of the progress of the Jap- 
anese in the mechanical arts, this, with 
their usual readiness in adopting new im- 
provements, will no doubt be introduced, 
or perhaps the more effective power of 
steam will be applied to their praying 
machines, and with the introduction of 
steamboats and railroads may commence 
an era of locomotive devotion. 

There are three large Mia^ or Sintoo 
temples, in Hakodadi, called respectively 
the Sheumei, the Hachiman, and the Pen- 
ten, dedicated to national deified heroes 
and gods. They are not in so flourish- 
ing condition as their competitors, the 
Buddhist temples, which have gained the 
ascendancy, and are fast absorbing the 
whole devotional interests of the Jap- 
anese people. The Sintoo places of wor- 
ship are generally got up on a cheaper 
scale, and are much less resorted to. 
They have no burying grounds attached, 
and are not surrounded by any defined enclosure. There are, however, sev- 
eral gateways, with ornaments sculptured on stone spanning the approach, 
but the area which surrounds the temples is open and the public road passes 
through it. A curator with his family, whose duty it is to keep the idols 
polished up and the sacred grounds in a tidy condition, generally resides on 
or near the premises. The Hachiman house of worship presents a pecu- 
liarity in its architecture not elsewhere observed, which consists of a pro- 




V 



516 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

jection from tlie roof like a dormer window, underneath whicli there is au 
entablature adorned with a few carvings in wood. The effect, in an archi- 
tectural point of view, is good, as it relieves the blankness of a great ex- 
panse of roof, and is in harmony with the ornaments of the eaves below. 

Upon the summits and acclivities of the hills in the neighborhood of 
Hakodadi, and in niches and small shrines under shadow of groves of cy- 
press and other trees by the wayside, are frequent stone statues of Buddha, 
venerable with age and moss-grown, about four feet high, elevated upon 
small pedestals, and the innumerable offerings of copper cash, rags, flowers, 
and written papers, strewed before them, prove the large number of devotees 
and the attention of the people to their devotional duties. The Japanese 
resort frequently to these roadside deities, and the higher they are perched, 
and the more inaccessible their aproach, the greater is esteemed the merit in 
invoking them. These idols are supposed to have great power in warding 
off the storms or disasters to which mariners on that inhospitable coast are 
exposed, and most of the offerings are made with a view to propitiate Bud- 
dha and his associate deities in the event of an approaching danger. In addi- 
tion to the statues, there are distributed along the roads and pathways 
frequent stone slabs with inscriptions and a gallows-shaped gateway, fanci- 
fully carved and ornamented beams, with two vertical and a single horizon- 
tal one crossing them at the top. These are never passed by the pious 
Japanese without a genuflexion and the utterance of a passing prayer ; and 
so frequent are the stoppages in consequence, that the American officers, 
when strolling into the country under the guidance of a native, found their 
journey indefinitely prolonged, and their patience sorely taxed. 

The question naturally arises, what, upon a survey of the whole ground, 
are the prospects of now presenting Christianity to the Japanese mind with 
any hope of a favorable reception ? To this subject Mr. Jones, the chap- 
lain, naturally directed his thoughts, and his sound judgment, added to his 
known pious zeal, entitles his opinions to the respect of Christians of all 
denominations. He thus writes : 

" Apart from governmental influence, I think there would be no great 
difficulty in introducing Christianity ; hut the government would interfere 
most decidedly. I performed funeral services on shore four times : once at 
Yoku-hama, twice at Hakodadi, and once at Simoda ; in every instance in 
the presence of the Japanese, and, in most, when large numbers were 
collected. They always behaved well. Japanese officers were present, with 
their insignia, on all occasions. I thus became known among the people 
everywhere as a Christian clergyman^ or, to follow their signs for designa- 
ting me, as ' a praying man.' Instead of this producing a shrinking from 
me, as I had supposed it would, I found that I had decidedly gained by it in 
their respect, and this among officials as well as commoners. At our last 
visit to Simoda we found a new governor, it having now become a royal in- 




i'j:iEaT IN lui.i- Di;ESb, slmoda. 



PROSPECTS FOR CHRISTIANITY. 517 

stead of a provincial town. This governor was an affable, yet dignified, man, 
of very polished manners, and would compare favorably with the best gen- 
tlemen in any country. At the bazaar, amid the buying, &c., I was led up 
to him by one of the officials and introduced as a clergyman. The gover- 
nor's countenance brightened up as my office was announced, and his saluta- 
tion and treatment of me became additionally courteous. I mention this, 
however, for what it may be worth. There was no seeming aversion to me 
because I was a minister of Christianity. The government, however, 
beyond all doubt, is exceedingly jealous about our religion ; but the Japa- 
nese officials, as well as the people, are so inquisitive, and so observant of all 
that comes within their reach, that, doubtless, after a time, they might be 
brought to see the difference between ourselves and the Romanists. Against 
the latter they have a deep-seated dislike. Until they do understand that 
difference, no form of Christianity can probably get foothold in Japan." 

There is little appearance of military defence about Hakodadi, though its 
position would seem to offer advantages for rendering it almost impregnable. 
Beyond the town, however, in an easterly direction, there are two earthen 
forts dug out of the ground, and intended, apparently, to guard the entrance 
to the harbor. Stakes or palisades are driven in along the cuttings to 
prevent the earth from caving in, and to aid in the defence. Two wooden 
buildings stand near by, which are connected with magazines underneath 
the excavated area of the forts. Within these latter is a pavement of stone 
and embrasures of four feet in width, opening in the eastern embankment 
looking seaward, and made apparently for only two guns. On the beach at 
the eastern end of the main street, there is a building, with a broad enclo- 
sure, which seems to be intended for purposes of fortification, although from 
the absence of cannon and other warlike appointments, it may be only used 
for a parade ground. There are better specimens of military defence in 
Japan than those rude constructions, as, for example, at Uraga, where 
several stone forts exist, built according to better principles of art, although 
there are probably none in the whole country which could withstand a slight 
cannonading from European or American ships of war, or even an attack 
from a few well armed boats. 

The country about Hakodadi, though picturesque to the view, did not 
present such attractions for the pedestrian as that in the neighborhood of 
Simoda. The environs are comparatively rude and uncultivated, and the 
land is so broken by the hills and mountainous elevations, that the roads 
are necessarily steep, irregular, and toilsome to the traveller. The isolated 
rock at the base, and on the side of which the town is built, is steep and rough, 
but is ascended by a winding path to the top. The summit commands a 
fine view of the harbor, and was often scaled by the officers of the expe- 
dition, where they were reminded of the high advance in art of the country 
by finding an observatory, or look-out for vessels, supplied with a telescope 



518 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

of Japanese manufacture, being arranged with glasses like our own, inserted 
in a tube of bamboo. 

The geological features of the hill itself are of considerable interest. 
It is composed of a variety of granite, the sienite, generally gray, though 
occasionally of a reddish tint, in which crystals of tourmaline are more or 
less abundantly dififused. On the southwestern side of the promontory, the 
rock has been first torn apart by some subterranean force, leaving a crevice 
about twenty feet in width, and subsequently another upheaving movement 
has forced up, so as to fill the space partially, a rocky substance, similar to 
the mountain in kind, but with no tourmaline, and a softer feldspar, having 
the character of the porphyritic formation. At this point a mineral spring 
issues from the crevices of the rock. It is considerably impregnated with 
sulphuretted hydrogen gas, as was very evident from its taste and odor, is 
warm to the touch, and one of the surgeons reports it as " sitting lightly on 
the stomach." Its gases and odor are lost, however, by being kept even for 
a short time. The water contains chloride of sodium, and probably some 
mineral sulphate or sulphuret. The intelligent medical officer Dr. Green, 
to whose account we are indebted for our information, further reports it to 
be medicinally somewhat diuretic and slighty aperient, and infers that it 
would be probably beneficial in some cutaneous diseases and chronic com- 
plaints, where the secretions are disordered or suppressed. The natives, 
who accompanied the Americans to the spring, made signs that the water 
was not good to drink, but excellent to bathe in; and the erection of a pre- 
siding deity in its neighborhood, and the frequent use of it by the inhabit- 
ants for washing themselves, proved a high appreciation of its qualities. 

A few hundred yards west of the sulphur spring, at the back of the 
town, is a natural cave in the mountain. It opens from the sea into a steep, 
perpendicular cliff, and can be entered only by means of a boat. It is about 
thirty feet high, a dozen or so in width, and the water at the entrance has a 
depth of nearly twenty feet. A party from the ships penetrated it until the 
darkness of the interior became so great that objects could no longer be 
distinguished ; it was found, however, by groping along, that the cave 
branched ofi" to the right and left, with apparently the same depth of water 
and the same height of roof as at the entrance. Within, a perfect calmness 
reigned, the water being almost motionless, and the atmosphere close and un- 
disturbed by a breath of wind. When the light was sufficient, the bottom 
could be seen glistening brightly with a deposit of white sand. When 
storms prevail, there must be a great rushing of waters, and war of the 
winds, through this cavernous channel. The entrance to the cave is arched, 
and the rocky cliff in which it opens has a columnar formation, extending 
from the curve of the arch, high up the rock. At first sight it was sup- 
posed to be basalt, as it had a similar appearance to the columns of the 
Giant's Causeway in Ireland ; but on further investigation, the geological 



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COMMERCE OF HAKODADI. 519 

formation proved to be tlie sienitic form of granite, like the main body of 
the mountain. 

The peninsula on which the town stands affords but a few score of acres 
of arable land lying on the eastern slope of the highest hill, near the fishing 
village of Shirasawaki on the seashore. It is cultivated in vegetables, prin- 
cipally for the consumption of the people of Hakodadi. Onions, a few 
sweet potatoes and radishes, are the chief products, the last of which are a 
very favorite article of food, and are served up raw, being grated and used 
as a condiment with fish, and cooked by stewing and boiling. The low isth- 
mus which connects the site of the town with the main land is mostly left 
uncultivated, although it might be by proper tillage rendered tolerably pro- 
ductive. Further in the interior, the soil is more worked, and large crops 
are obtained, but with very little profit to the farmer, as the country in that 
direction is composed of a flat, sandy plain, which can only be made produc- 
tive by immense labor, and a great expenditure of manure, which is exten- 
sively used. 

There are several beautiful copses of pines and maples, near the town, 
some fruit trees and flowering shrubs, and the vegetation upon the lower 
acclivities of the surrounding hills is vigorous. A large variety of north- 
ern plants, birches, spiroeas, laburnums, wake-robins, and others clothe the 
sides, and afi"ord a scant fuel to the poor. 

The inhabitants of Hakodadi and its neighborhood gaining their liveli- 
hood chiefly from commerce and the fisheries, necessarily pay but little 
attention to agricultural pursuits. They carry on a large trade with the 
interior of the island of Yesso, with Matsmai, and other of the numerous 
towns and villages, which are supplied with the various products of Japan 
by means of the brisk commerce which exists between Hakodadi and the 
shipping ports on the coast of Nippon, Sikok, and Kiu-siu. The junks 
engaged in this shipping trade take from Hakodadi cargoes of dried and 
salted fish, prepared seaweed, charcoal, deers' horns, timber, and other 
produce of Yesso, and bring back rice, sugar, tea, various grains, sweet 
potatoes, tobacco, cloths, silks, porcelain, lacquered ware, cutlery, and what- 
ever else they may need. More than a hundred of the native vessels sailed 
for difierent southern ports of the Empire during the short stay of the 
Commodore, and all had cargoes almost exclusively made up of productions 
of the sea; They generally travel along the western coast, as being less 
boisterous, and affording a greater number of safe anchoring places. These 
junks are all nearly of the same dimensions in burden, corresponding to about 
a hundred tons of our measurement, and in construction, rig, and equipment, 
precisely alike. More than a thousand of these vessels are occasionally 
seen at one time at anchor in the port of Hakodadi. The principal places 
with which this commerce is carried on are Sado, lying south of Matsmai, 
Yedo, Yetchigo, Nagasaki, or Simonosaki, and with Osaka and Owari. Of 



520 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

the craft in which this commerce is carried on the Commodore has fur 
nished the following account : 

"The ramifications of the laws of Japan leave nothing unnoticed, and it 
has been more than once remarked, that in no part of the world are the 
established laws and municipal regulations more thoroughly enforced, and 
so in respect to the construction of vessels, or junks as they are called. 
The builder is not permitted to deviate from a uniform rule, in model, 
size, rig, as well as in the interior arrangement. 

" In the time of Kempfer, the authorized dimensions of Japanese mer- 
chant vessels were, as he tells us, ' fourteen fathoms long and four fathoms 
broad,' (length 84 and breadth 24 feet;) he says nothing of the depth, but 
from their flatness I should judge that the hold could not exceed six or 
eight feet under deck. These proportions have not, in all probability, 
changed for a long period before Kempfer's book appeared, (which was pub- 
lished in the early part of the last century,) down to the present time. 

" Those which came within my observation, and I certainly could not 
have seen less than a thousand, were all of somewhat similar dimensions 
and appearance ; the drawings to which the reader is referred are so accu- 
rate, that any precise description is rendered unnecessary, and it is only 
requisite to say that they all have at this time open sterns, with a strong 
bulkhead aft to keep the water from flowing into the hold. The rudder is 
of large and unwieldy size, and is hoisted up or lowered by means of run- 
ners worked by a windlass fitted in the cabin, which latter is also used in 
connexion with one on the forecastle for hoisting and lowering the mast and 
sail. 

"The cause assigned for requiring the sterns of all vessels to be 
constructed in this way, is to render more convenient the management 
of the rudder ; Kempfer and other writers ascribe it to the suspicious 
policy of the government, which forbids any of its vessels to visit foreign 
countries; and, until the period of our negotiations, the punishment of 
death was adjudged against all who, by design or accident, were thrown 
upon a strange land ; and hence it was very naturally assumed that the navi- 
gators of these frail and open stern craft would not venture beyond the sight 
of land. It is known, however, that the Chinese junks usually have sterns 
and rudders somewhat similar, and a presumption may be reasonably 
advanced that this description of rudder was the first substitute for the 
paddle oar or sweep used in early times for steering, and the recess in the 
stern has been left for the sole convenience of taking the rudder out 
of the water. 

" It will be seen by the drawings that these vessels have a sharp taper- 
ing bow, with a straight projecting stern. They have but one mast, and 
that is placed considerably abaft the centre beam ; one sail only is used, and 
that a lug with a square head. This is worked by braces to the yard and 



JAPANESE JUNKS. 521 

by the usual tacks and sheets, and a number of bow-lines attached to both 
leaches, and extending well up towards the head; these are intended to 
keep the sail flat, when on a wind ; but with all these contrivances it cannot 
be prevented from bellying to such a degree as to render it impossible for 
the vessel to work nearer the wind than seven points on either tack ; and, 
to make the sail still more clumsy and unsuitable, the material of which it 
is made, either cotton or grass cloth, is laced together in vertical breadths, 
instead of being closely sewed, as with us. 

" The main or lower deck is flush, and intended to be sufficiently strong 
and water tight to secure the cargo ; over this and abaft the mast, is a sort 
of half deck, which covers the cabin, and is also of tolerable strength. In 
this cabin the officers, passengers, and servants are quartered, the different 
apartments being formed of movable bulkheads or screens ; here also is the 
altar, surmounted by an image of some patron god. Forward of the mast, 
and above the main or only flush deck, is a sort of pitched roof, with sides 
resting upon the gunwales. This is covered with boards or thatch, and 
serves as a shelter for the crew, averaging about thirty in number, and the 
stowing of the least valuable part of the cargo ; forward of this is the cable 
windlass and a space for working the runner forestay ; here also the anchors 
are stowed when on board." 

" By this description one may well judge of the unfitness of these vessels 
even for navigating the coasts and islands of Japan, made, indeed, more dan- 
gerous by the- prevalence of boisterous and foggy weather in those regions ; 
doubtless many of them are lost, but their pilots (for each has an under 
officer of this class) rarely venture a few miles from the land, excepting 
when running from island to island ; and in these passages they never leave 
port without favorable weather and a fair wind." 

" The boats are large and commodious, and in model not unlike the 
junks ; they are usually propelled by sculls, which are worked at the sides 
on projections from the gunwales, the oars and sculls being long and some- 
what bent. At Hakodadi we noticed that some of the boatmen used their 
oars in the American fashion, excepting that they dropped and raised their 
starboard and port oars alternately, and not uniformly together as we do. 
In sculling, the Japanese stand, and keep perfect measure or stroke with 
their sculls, which is the better preserved by their chaunting a monotonous 
refrain, every alternate man swinging his body in opposite directions, one 
pushing, the other pulling. The rowers thus vibrating half of them one 
way, and half the other, the boat is kept perfectly upright as she dashes 
through, or rather over, the water." 

" AVe saw nothing remarkable in the manner or workmanship of the Japa- 
nese shipbuilders. It is doubtful whether they have any scientific rules for 
drafting or modelling, or for ascertaining the displacement of water by their 



522 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

vessels ; nor perhaps has it been necessary, as the law confined them all to 
one model and size." 

" The tools with which they work are of primitive description, and the 
finest of their work is not remarkable for its neatness ; copper is preferred 
to iron in fastening, when it can be advantageously used, and this is doubt- 
less owing to the great abundance of the former as a native production." 

"It is a singular fact, strongly illustrative of the effect produced upon 
the people of this strange country by our friendly and social communica- 
tions with them, that the law already mentioned, which restricted the con- 
struction of their vessels to one particular model, and that also inflicting 
death upon those of their nation who should return to the Empire after 
having once left it, no matter how, were both suspended; whether annulled 
or not, I cannot say." 

" Keyama Yesaiman, the governor of Uraga, was authorized, as we have 
heard, and instructed to build a vessel after the model of the storeship 
Supply, a very pretty vessel, and the Japanese commissioners who nego- 
tiated with me invited a native we had on board the flag-ship, to whom the 
sailors had given the sobriquet of " Sam Patch," to land and rejoin his 
family, pledging themselves, in my presence, that he should be treated kind- 
ly and provided for, under the immediate protection of one of them. Since 
then there have been, as I understand, no objections made to the return of 
any of the shipwrecked Japanese ; but how far they have improved in ship- 
building, I have not heard." 

" We saw no war junks, and it is probable they have none of any size, 
the country not having been engaged for a long period in war. They con- 
tent themselves, most likely, in putting light swivels or howitzers on the 
larger of their boats, whenever they cannot depend entirely upon their 
many land batteries." 

A very large portion of the population is engaged in the fisheries, which 
supply an abundant product. While the American squadron was in the 
harbor, the seine was frequently drawn by the sailors of the ships, and 
large quantities of excellent fish obtained, consisting of salmon, salmon trout, 
groupers, white fish, porgies, perch, flounders, herrings, whitings, mullets, 
and various other kinds. The salmon we took are not more than half the 
size of those obtained in the United States, but are superior to them in 
flavor. (Specimens of smoked salmon from further north were as large as 
ours.) Crabs, clams of the genus venus, with beautifully-marked shells, 
and the large blue muscle, are found in great abundance. The crabs are 
of considerable size, and proved excellent eating, quite equal to the famous 
ones of the Chesapeake. 

The sportsmen of the expedition, in their occasional rambles, succeeded 
in obtaining but few specimens of birds or animals. Wild geese, ducks, 
quail, and other descriptions of game are, however, abundant in their sea- 




SUB-PEEFECT OF HAKODADI. 



PROSPECTS OF HAKODADI. 523 

sons, but the pheasant is rarely seen; of common birds there are found 
some curlew, plover and snipe. The fox, the wild boar, the deer, and the 
bear, are occasionally hunted. The fox is looked upon by the Japanese as 
possessed of an evil spirit, and is represented in their allegories as a willing 
agent of the devil, and with this belief the animal is pursued to the death. 
The people do not attempt to deprecate the wrath and cunning of his satanic 
majesty and his brood, as in some countries, but manfully hold them in 
defiance, and boldly give them battle. A male and female fox, with another 
animal allied to them in species, were shot, and their skins preserved. 

Hakodadi, in the future, will probably be frequented by our whalers, as 
it is conveniently situated to their usual resorts. Von Siebold states that 
sixty-eight square-rigged vessels were counted by the Japanese as passing 
Hakodadi and Matsmai in one year, and probably nearly all these were 
American, and most of them engaged in the whale fishery. Von Siebold, 
moreover, significantly adds, " and not one daring to approach the shore 
within gunshot." The treaty has, however, dispelled these alarms, and 
American vessels are now secured a safe retreat and a place for obtaining 
necessary supplies. 

Hakodadi will not probably soon become a place of much trade with 
American vessels, but it can readily supply to the whalers and other ships 
good water and abundance of fish, poultry, vegetables, and some timber, 
and other articles, the varieties and quantities of which will no doubt 
increase with the demand. Fish, however, is the great staple food of the 
people throughout the Empire of Japan, and is justly called by them their 
staff of life ; and to express their appreciation of its value, they invariably 
wrap up a bit of it in paper and send it with each gift. Cattle are only 
used for the plough and as beasts of burden, so that it is almost impossible to 
obtain a supply of beef. Horses are used a good deal in Hakodadi and the 
neighborhood for carrying burdens, and also for riding purposes. These 
animals seem of an excellent breed, and though small, are neatly limbed, 
spirited, and of good bottom. The roads, which, by-the-bye, are provided 
with roadside conveniences answering to the French cabinets d^aisances, 
are excellent throughout the country, and are occasionally wide and paved, 
though most frequently they are mere bridle paths, but kept in good order 
for the horsemen, the pack animals, and the sedans or kagos. 

These latter are most generally used for travelling, and consist of small 
wooden boxes, supported by poles, which are carried upon the shoulders of 
the bearers. They are adorned and enriched according to the distinction 
of the proprietors, but are never very comfortable conveyances. 

Hakodadi is several degrees further north than Simoda, and is surround- 
ed like it with mountains, which are, however, more numerous and lofty, 
though at a further distance from the town. These were found to be cov- 
ered at their summits and on their upper acclivities with snow, as late as 



524 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

the month of June. The climate of Hakodadi is, therefore, colder than 
that at Simoda in winter and spring, and the fogs are both frequent and 
dense. The range of the thermometer from May 18 to June 3 was from 
51° to 66°, and that of the barometer 29^ 45' to 30° 05'. 

The changes of temperature and humidity are sudden and extreme, and 
therefore render the inhabitants liable to inflammatory diseases, but proba- 
bly not more so than in the northern cities with us. 

There are apparently no sources of miasma, as the town is situated at 
the base and on the side of a considerable mountain ; while such is the care- 
ful cultivation and draining of the Japanese farmers, there probably can 
be no causes of ill health from the low sandy isthmus and the level plains 
which connect the peninsula, upon which Hakodadi is situated, with the 
distant range of mountains. It may, then, be reasonably inferred, that 
both Hakodadi and Simoda are free from malignant endemic diseases, and 
may be resorted to with advantage by our ships of war on the China sta- 
tion, particularly at that period of the year — the latter part of summer and 
autumn — when dysentery and fevers are usually prevalent there. This 
opinion has, however, more particular reference to the climate ; for, if true, 
as Golownin says, that the inhabitants of the island of Yesso are subject to 
scurvy, it will be necessary for vessels to provide against the chances of 
this disease. It is quite probable that the statement of Grolownin may be 
correct, as occasionally a scarcity of vegetable food — a frequent source of 
scurvy — might occur towards spring, as the winters are so long, and the 
space so short for culture, which, moreover, is the exceptional occupation 
of the people along the coast, who are mostly engaged in commerce and in 
the fisheries. Vessels, therefore, on a long cruise, should make provision for 
the possible want of vegetable supplies at Hakodadi. 

The town contains from six to eight thousand inhabitants, who, from 
their manly occupations in connexion with the sea, are a comparatively 
vigorous and spirited people. 

There are still some of the indigenous race of Ainos existing upon the island 
of Yesso, but they are rarely seen in the neighborhood of Hakodadi. There 
was, however, during the expedition sent by the Commodore to Volcano 
Bay, an opportunity of obtaining a casual glance at these strange people, 
who are described as being of a stature less than that of Europeans, averag- 
ing a little over five feet in height, but well proportioned and with intelli- 
gent features. Their color is quite dark, and their hair black and coarse, 
which is clipped behind, but allowed to straggle in thick matted locks down 
in front, in a confused cluster with their long beards, which are never cut or 
shaven. Their legs are bare of artificial covering, but are grown over with 
a plentiful crop of coarse hair, which, together with the abundant growth 
on their heads and faces, has given them the name, by which they are better 
known, of " Hairy Kuriles." Their dress was a coarse and ragged blue 




^<is£r/^r:s.sc. 



CABINET WAEE. 




JAPANESE CLOCK. 




SHOES WORN KY JAPANESE. 



SKILL OF JAPANESE MECHANICS. 525 

undergarmeiit reacliing below the knees, over wliich was thrown carelessly 
a brown sack with wide sleeves, made of grass or skins. Their dishevelled 
hair and rude costume gave them a wild look, and they had a dirty, poverty- 
stricken aspect. Their chief occupation is that of fishing, which they carry 
on under the eye and for the benefit of their Japanese taskmasters, to whose 
absolute will they are subject. 

Though the people of Hakodadi are generally engaged in the fisheries, 
and occupations connected with a nautical life, there are, of course, to be 
found in the town persons of all classes, trades, and occupations. 

In speaking, moreover, in the course of the following remarks, upon 
Japanese life, as illustrated by manners, habits, customs, and occupations, 
chiefly observed at Hakodadi, it must not be inferred that what is said 
applies exclusively to the inhabitants of that place, as a more general bear- 
ing is intended. 

In the practical and mechanical arts, the Japanese show great dexter- 
ity ; and when the rudeness of their tools and their imperfect knowledge of 
machinery are considered, the perfection of their manual skill appears 
marvellous. Their handicraftsmen are as expert as any in the world, and, 
with a freer development of the inventive powers of the people, the Japa- 
nese would not remain long behind the most successful manufacturing -ir 
nations. Their curiosity to learn the results of the material progress of 
other people, and their readiness in adapting them to their own uses, would 
soon, under a less exclusive policy of government, which isolates them from 
national communion, raise them to a level with the most favored countries. 
Once possessed of the acquisitions of the past and present of the civilized 
world, the Japanese would enter as powerful competitors in the race for 
mechanical success in the future. 

Every American admired the skilful workmanship of the carpenters as 
displayed in the construction of the wood-work in the houses, the nice 
adjustment and smooth finish of the jointing, the regularity of the flooring, 
and the neat framing and easy working of the window casements and mov- 
able door panels and screens. The general designs of the houses and public 
buildings were very inferior to the execution of the details of construction. 
The former were uniform, and probably in accordance with the ancient 
models, and showed a constraint of inventive power within rules doubtless 
prescribed by government, while the latter evinced that perfection of finish 
which belongs alone to progressive experience. As in the carpentry, so in 
the masonry, there was no freedom nor boldness of conception, but the 
most complete execution. Their stone was well cut, and their walls strong- 
ly and regularly built, generally in the massive cyclopean style. 

The coopers were found to be very expert at Hakodadi, where a large 
number of barrels was constantly in the process of manufacture for pack- 
ing the dried and salted fish. The barrels are firkin-shaped, bulging at the 



^' 



526 



EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 



top, and are rapidly and skilfully hooped with plaited bamboo. There are 
many workers in metal for ornamental and useful purposes. The Japanese 
understand well the carbonizing of iron, and the temper of much of their 
steel is good, as was proved by the polish and sharpness of their sword- 
blades. The cutlery, however, in common use at Hakodadi was of an infe- 
rior kind, and the barber of one of the ships pronounced a razor, purchased 
in the town, as abominably bad, neither cutting nor capable of being made 
to cut. The blacksmiths are numerous and busy in the town, but their 
work is of a small kind, as they do not use the base metals in large masses, 
but chiefly as parts of various implements and articles, of which wood 
forms the larger portion. 

Their bellows are peculiar, being a wooden box with air chambers, con 
taining valves and a piston, which is worked horizontally at one end like a 
hand pump, while the compressed air issues from two outlets at the sides. 




Blacksmith's Bellows. 

Charcoal is generally used as the fuel, of which large quantities are 
made in the forests of the mountains of the interior, and brought to the 
town by droves of pack-horses, which are seen constantly trotting through 
the streets. 

As the commerce of Hakodadi is extensive, the ship, or rather junk 
yards, showed much activity, and great numbers of vessels were constantly 
seen there in progress of construction. Pine is the material of which the 
vessels of all sizes are built, and copper is used extensively for bolting and 
for other purposes. The models are much superior to those of the Chinese ; 
but of this department of industry we have already spoken fully. 

Nothing was seen of the higher and more complicated branches of in- 
dustrial art in operation, although the shops were supplied with fabrics 
which proved no little skill and perfection in various manufactures. The 
people seemed, however, to be unacquainted with woollen tissues, and exhib- 
ited great curiosity in examining the cloth dresses of the Americans. Cotton 
is much worn by the lower classes, and is generally coarsely woven, being 
ordinarily made in private looms at home. Every Japanese woman is more 



JAPANESE ART. 527 

or less an adept at handling the wheel, the spindle, and shuttle, and they 
were often seen busy in preparing the threads and weaving the rude fabric 
of which the garments of the poorer classes are commonly made. 

Their cottons are occasionally printed with colors, forming neat calico 
patterns, but their tints readily fade and will not bear washing. The width 
of the calico pieces, like that of the silks and crapes, is uniformly eighteen 
inches. This is not suited to an American or European market. Their 
silks are rich and heavy, and somewhat like our brocade in texture, but 
stouter and less flexible. They are often of very elaborate figured patterns, 
interwoven with golden threads, and exceedingly beautiful. These are 
mostly used for the state robes of the high officials and dignitaries of the 
land. A ver}^ high price was generally demanded for these silks, though, in 
one instance, one of the officers, from some cause or other, purchased a piece 
at Hakodadi at thirteen cents per yard. The various colored crapes are 
some of them very flimsy, and are an essential part of Japanese upholstery, 
being often seen as coverings to divans or seats, and hangings to apartments. 
Other pieces are superior to Chinese crapes. 

The lacquered ware has all the lightness, neatness of cabinet-work 
structure, and exquisite polish, that seems possible in work of that descrip- 
tion, and the porcelain is equal to the choicest specimens of similar Chinese 
work. The forms and ornamentation of the various articles, although 
frequently grotesque, showed much grace and skill, and proved great 
advancement in the application of the arts of design to manufacturing pur- 
poses. 

In examining into the character of art exhibited by the Japanese in 
the illustrated books and pictures brought home by the officers of the 
expedition, of which several specimens are now before us, the same surpris- 
ing advancement of this remarkable people, as they have shown in so many 
other respects, is strikingly observable. To the archaeologist there is 
presented in these illustrations a living example of the archaic period of a 
national art, when the barbaric character of the past seems to be fast losing 
its rude features in the early and naive beginnings of a sober and cultivated 
future. We are reminded, in a degree truly surprising, of the monochro- 
matic designs upon the Etruscan vases. We find simplicity of expression 
rather than, as might be expected, extravagance and grotesqueness ; and a 
soberness of coloring so far removed from the gaudy tendencies of oriental 
taste, that, as we look, we are almost persuaded that we have here a begin- 
ning of that unextravagant expression of nature which, in the early Greek 
efl"orts, though crude, is so interesting to the antiquarian and artist. The 
character and form in these Japanese illustrations, though apparently much 
in advance of Chinese art, are still typical rather than naturalistic ; yet they 
arc marked by an observation of nature which removes them from anything 
like conventionalism or manner. 



528 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

One of these specimens is a book in two volumes, written by tbe Prince 
Hayashi, the chief member of the imperial commission appointed to negotiate 
the treaty, and presented by him to Commodore Perry. The subject treated 
of is " The Points of a Horse," and the work is illustrated by a large num- 
ber of pictures. These illustrations are from woodcuts of bold outline, and 
apparently printed with a tint to distinguish each in the various groups of 
the animal, by sober greys, reds, and blacks. The style might be classed as 
that of the mediaeval, and the horses might pass for those sketched in the 
time of Albert Durer, though with a more rigid adherence to nature. They 
exhibit, what may be noticed in the Elgin marbles, a breed of small stature 
and finely formed limbs, such as are found in southern countries. There is 
great freedom of hand shown in the drawing. The animals are represented 
in various attitudes, curvetting, gambolling, and rolling upon the ground, 
positions requiring and exhibiting an ability in foreshortening, which is 
found, with no small surprise, in Asiatic art. 

Another example of Japanese art before us is a species of frieze, if we 
may so call it, cut in wood and printed on paper in colors. It presents a 
row or line of the huge wrestlers of whom we have spoken on a previous 
page. The chief point of interest in this illustration, considered in an 
artistic sense, is, that, apart from its being a successful specimen of printing 
in colors — a process, by the way, quite modern among ourselves — there is a 
breadth and vigor of outline compared with which much of our own draw- 
ing appears feeble, and above all things, undecided. Whatever the Japanese 
may lack as regards art, in a perception of its true princijDles, the style, 
grace, and even a certain mannered dexterity which their drawings exhibit, 
show that they are possessed of an unexpected readiness and precision of 
touch, which are the prominent characteristics in this picture of the wrest- 
lers. There is no stiffness or angularity aboat it. There is also a picture 
of an amphitheatre, in which the wrestlers appear, which serves to correct an 
error found in former writers as to Japanese ignorance of perspective. 

In illustration of the rapidity and dexterity with which the Japanese 
artists work we have the testimony of the chaplain of the Mississippi, the 
Rev. Mr. Jones, who employed an artist at Hakodadi to paint for him a set 
of screens. Mr. Jones sat by the painter and watched him at his work. 
He made no previous sketch, but drew at once the various portions of the 
landscape, putting in his houses, ships, horses, trees and birds, with wonder- 
ful readiness, the whole being a fancy piece ; and when he came to paint the 
foliage of some pines, he used two brushes in one hand at the same time, so 
as to expedite his work. The result was, though not a production of high 
art, yet a much better specimen of ornamental screen than could readily be 
found in the most pretentious manufacturing establishments of our own 
country. And here we may add, that a very remarkable specimen of 
Japanese linear drawing in perspective fell under Mr. Jones's observation. 



JAPANESE DRAWINGS. 529 

On the first visit of the squadron to Japan, as we have stated, intense inter- 
est was excited among the natives by the engines of the steamers. Their 
curiosity seemed insatiable, and the Japanese artists were constantly em- 
ployed, when they had opportunity, in making drawings of parts of the 
machinery, and seeking to understand its construction and the principles of 
its action. On the second visit of the squadron, Mr. Jones saw, in the 
hands of a Japanese, a perfect drawing, in true proportion, of the whole 
engine, with its several parts in place, which he says was as correct and good 
as could have been made anywhere. The Japanese artist had made it, and 
valued it very highly, being unwilling to part with it at any price ; Mr. 
Jones would have gladly bought it, and offered to do so, that he might bring 
it home as a specimen of Japanese skill. 

In regard to anatomical markings, there is, in the specimens of Japanese 
drawings we have before us, no lack of such a degree of correctness as may be 
obtained by close outward observation of the parts. The muscular develop- 
ment of the horses, both in action and at rest, is shown in lines sufficiently 
true to nature to prove a very minute and accurate observation, on the part 
of the artist, of the external features of his subjects. This is very striking 
in the frieze of the wrestlers alluded to above. It is characterized by 
remarkable precision in this respect, and while preserving in the figures all 
the peculiar features of the Asiatic stock, the outer angle of the eye running 
upward, the small corneas, &c., there is distinctive expression, yet with simi- 
larity, and a height of art is reached in the drawings corresponding, as 
regards naturalistic characters, with what has been found in some of the 
Nineveh fragments. 

The third example of Japanese art is afforded by an unpretending, 
illustrated child's book, purchased in Hakodadi for a few Chinese copper 
" cash." This humble little primer suggests a thousand points of interest in 
connexion with the Japanese, and acquaints us at once as we turn over the 
very first page, with an important fact as regards their advance in art. We 
here find evidence that, unlike the Chinese, the artists of Japan have, as we 
have already hinted, a knowledge of perspective. There is a balcony pre- 
sented in angular perspective, with its rafters placed in strict accordance 
with the principle of terminating the perspective lines in a vanishing point 
abruptly on the horizon. On another page there is what appears to be some 
Tartar Hercules or Japanese St. Patrick clearing the land of reptiles and 
vermin, and the doughty destroyer is brandishing his sword in the most 
valiant style. This is drawn with a freedom and humorous sense of the 
grotesque and ludicrous that are rarely found in similar books prepared for 
the amusement of children with us. In one of the illustrations there is a 
quaint old shopman peering through a pair of spectacles stuck upon his nose, 
and made precisely like the double-eyed glasses just now so fashionable, 
without any side wires or braces to confine them to the head. A number of 
34 



530 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

tea-cliests are heaped one above another at his side, and the perspective of 
these is perfectly correct. A glass globe of gold fish, which have awakened 
the hungry instincts of a cat that wistfully watches their movements in the 
water, is among the pictures. A couple of chairmen, who have put down 
their sedan to take their rest, are engaged lighting their pipes ; and a pro- 
fessor, seemingly of phrenology, is standing amid the paraphernalia of his 
art, whatever it be, and is taking the measure with a pair of compasses of a 
bald-headed disciple. All these scenes occur among the illustrations of this 
little book. All show a humorous conception and a style of treatment far in 
advance of the mechanical trash which sometimes composes the nursery 
books found in our shops. A people have made some progress worth study- 
ing who have a sense of the humorous, can picture the ludicrous, and good- 
naturedly laugh at a clever caricature. The constant recurrence on the 
margin of the pages of these Japanese books of what is usually called by ar- 
chitects " the Greek fret or border," is certainly curious. We are surprised 
by a classic form that we would not have expected to find an established 
feature in Oriental art. Not less surprising also is it to find another archi- 
tectural form belonging to what is usually termed the " Gothic " style. If 
the reader will turn to the end of chapter XXI. he will find, delineated on 
a gong, the perfect representation of the trefoil of the modern architect ; it 
is an accurate copy from the original. Our artist has also sketched another, 
in which the " Gothic " pattern is plainly seen. These are singular coinci- 
dences. 

There is great scope for sculpture in the image-worship of the religion 
of the Japanese, and, accordingly, statues of stone, metal and wood, abound 
in the temples, shrines, and by the waysides. The mechanical execution 
of these generally exhibits much manual skill, but none of them are to be 
named as works of art. The wood carving is often exquisitely cut, and 
when representing natural objects, particularly the lower animals and fa- 
miliar parts of vegetation, are often remarkably close to truth. The sculp- 
tured cranes, tortoises, and fish, which are among the most frequent subjects 
carved upon the entablatures and cornices of the houses and temples, were 
continually admired for their fidelity to nature. 

With the exception of a temple or a gateway here and there, which, in 
comparison with the surrounding low houses, appeared somewhat imposing, 
there were no buildings seen which impressed the Americans with a high 
idea of Japanese architecture. The most creditable specimens of this branch 
of art are found in some of the stone causeways and bridges which are often 
built upon single bold Roman arches, and in design and masonry are equal 
to the most scientific and artistic structures anywhere. 

There were no printing establishments seen either at Simoda or Hako- 
dadi, but books were found in the shops. These were generally cheap works 
of elementary character, or popular story books or novels, and were evident- 




JAPANESE HOSSS. 




JAPANESE HORSE. 



INTELLECTUALITY OF THE JAPANESE. 531 

ly in great demand, as the people are universally taught to read, and are 
eager for information. Education is diffused throughout the Empire, and 
the women of Japan, unlike those of China, share in the intellectual ad- 
vancement of the men, and are not only skilled in the accomplishments 
peculiar to their sex, but are frequently well versed in their native litera- 
ture. The higher classes of the Japanese with whom the Americans were 
brought into communication, were not only thoroughly acquainted with their 
own country, but knew something of the geography, the material progress, 
and contemporary history of the rest of the world. Questions were fre- 
quently asked by the Japanese which proved an information, that, consider- 
ing their isolated situation, was quite remarkable, until explained by them- 
selves in the statement that periodicals of literature, science, arts, and poli- 
tics, were annually received from Europe through the Dutch at Nagasaki ; 
that some of these were translated, republished, and distributed through 
the Empire. Thus they were enabled to speak somewhat knowingly about 
our railroads, telegraphs, daguerreotypes, Paixhan guns, and steam-ships, 
none of which had they ever seen before Commodore Perry's visit. Thus, 
too, they could converse intelligently about the European war, about the 
American revolution, Washington, and Buonaparte. As strikingly illus- 
trative of the extent of their information as to passing events out of the 
Empire, Lieutenant Bent relates that when he was there in the Preble in 
1849, after the close of the war with Mexico, the interpreters, in their very 
first interview with Captain Glynn, said : " You have had a war with Mexi- 
co ? " " Yes." " You whipped them ? " Yes." " You have taken a part 
of their territory ? " " Yes." " And you have discovered large quantities 
of gold in it ? " And after the seamen, whom Captain Glynn went to de- 
mand, were given up, they stated to our officers that, from the guards of 
their prisop in Matsmai (many hundred miles from Nagasaki), they had 
heard of every battle we had with the Mexicans, and of every victory we 
gained. The Japanese learned the facts from the Dutch. 

As the better classes showed an intelligent interest in all they saw on 
"board the ships and steamers that was novel to them, so the common people 
exhibited an importunate curiosity about all that pertained to the dress and 
persons of the Americans whenever they visited the land. The Japanese 
were constantly besetting the officers and sailors in the streets, making all 
kinds of pantomimic inquiries about the English names of some part of 
their persons and apparel, from hat to boots, taking out their paper and 
pencil and making memoranda of the newly acquired English words. 

The Japanese are hard workers, but they compensate themselves with 
occasional holidays, and the evenings and hours of leisure with frequent 
games and amusements. One day, at Hakodadi, Dr. Green, the fleet sur • 
geon, and Mr. Jones, the chaplain, were strolling through the streets, when 
a shower of rain drove them for shelter into a sort of military station or 



532 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

guard house, at hand. On entering, they found some of the inmates play- 
ing at a game very similar, as it appeared, to chess. This interested the 
Doctor, who forthwith set about studying it, until, finally, with the aid of 
the interpreters, he succeeded, after some sittings, in mastering its mys- 
teries. The game is called Sho-Ho- Ye, and is a great favorite among the 
Japanese. The Doctor's account of it will be found below.* 

Besides this, they have a game analogous to ours with cards. They 
play with flat pieces of horn, ivory, or bone. These are about an inch and 
two-thirds long, and little more than an inch wide. There are forty-nine 

* JAPANESE GAME OF SHO-HO-YE, ANALOGOUS TO OUR GAME OF CHESS. 

This game is played by two persons, with forty pieces, (twenty on either side,) and upon 
a chequer board of eighty-one squares (nine upon each side). The board is of one uniform 
color, though the squares might be colored, as with us, for the sake of convenience. The 
pieces are also of one uniform color, as they are used, (at pleasure,) by either party, as his 
own, after being captured from the adversary. They are of various sizes, are long and 
wedge-shaped, being at the same time sharpened from side to side, in front, and the names 
of each piece are inscribed upon it, both the original, and the one assumed, upon being 
reversed or turned over (as below). Each player knows his men, or pieces, by their pointed 
and thin end being always forward or from him. But they would be more readily distin- 
guished if the back parts of all were painted with some decided and striking color, as that 
part of his own men is seen by each player only — and if the fronts of all the men were 
painted of some other color, as that part of the adversary's pieces is seen by either player 
only. They are laid flat upon the board, (front forward,) and thus their names are plainly 
visible. They capture, as in chess, by occupying the places of the captured pieces. The 
King, Oko-sMo, being the chief piece, cannot remain in check, and when checkmated, the 
game is lost. 

The pieces are named, and are placed upon the board, as follows, viz. : 

Oho-shio, (King,) centre square, first row. 

Kin-shio, (Gold, or chief councillor,) upon first row, and one on either side of Oho-shio, 

Gin-shio, (Silver, or sub-councillor,) upon first row, and one on each square, next out- 
side Kin-shio. 

Kiema, (Flying horse,) upon first row, and one on each square, next outside Gin-shio. 

Kio-shia, (Fragrant chariot,) one upon each corner square, first row. 

Eishia, (Flying chariot,) on second square, second row, right side of the board, 

Kakulco, (The horn,) on second square, second row, left side of the board. 

Eo-hei, (The soldiery,) on all the nine squares of the third row. 

The moves and powers of the pieces are as below, only noting, that in capturing, there 
is no deviation from them, as with us, in the case of pawns. 

Oho-shio moves and takes on one square in any direction. 

Kin-shio^ as the Oho-shio, except that he cannot move diagonally backward. 

Neither of the above are ever reversed or acquire different powers ; but all the pieces 
below may be reversed, (at the option of the player,) when they move to or from any square, 
in any of the adversary's three first rows, and thereby they acquire different powers, as 
well as different names. 

Gin-shio moves and takes as the Oho-shio, except that he cannot move directly on either 
side, or directly backward. When reversed, or turned over, he becomes a Gin-.Vari-Kin, 
and acquires all the powers (and those alone) of the Kin-shio, 




1. Oho-shio, (King,) centre square, first row. 

2. Kin-shio, (Gold, or cliief councillor,) upon first 

row, and on either side of OJio-sJdo. 

3. Gin-shio, (Silver, or sub-councillor,) upon first 

row, and one on each square, next outside 
Kin-shio. 

4. Kiema, (Flying horse,) upon first row, and one 

ou each square, next outside Gin-shv). 



5. Kioshift, (Fragrant chariot,) one upon each 

comer square, first row. 
G. TlisUa, (Flying chariot,) on second square, 

second row, on right side of the hoard. 

7. Kahihi, (The horn,) on second square, se- 

cond row, left side of the hoard. 

8. Uo-hd, (Tlie soldi eiy,) on all the nine squares 

of the tlyrd row. 



GAMES OF THE JAPANESE. 533 

pieces, marked by three different colors, blue, red, and wbite, to indicate 
the different suits, and also by lines and dots to signify the value of the 
piece. The games played with these are, as with our cards, numerous, and 
are generally played for money. The Japanese shuffle and cut them pre- 
cisely as is done with us, sometimes by lifting off a part of the pack, and at 
others expressing satisfaction with them as they are, by tapping the knuckle 
on the top of the heap. Another common game is played with small black 
and white stones, and seems to be somewhat of the character of loto, so 
much played in the gardens and estaminets of Paris and Hamburgh, fre- 
quented by the lower classes. It was a cheerful reminder of one's child- 
hood, and another bond of sympathy between the various branches of the 
human race, however remotely separated from each other, to find the little 
shaven-pated lads playing ball in the streets of Hakodadi, or jackstraws 
within the domestic circle at home. 

Note. — For the remarks made in this chapter on the specimens of Japanese art alluded 
to, we would make our acknowledgments to the accomplished instructor in drawing, &c., 
in the Free Academy of New York, Professor Duggan. The specimens were submitted to 
him with a request that he would examine them artistically, and favor the compiler with 
his opinion. 



Kiema has the move of our knight, except that he is strictly confined to two squares 
forward and one laterally, and can in no case make more than four moves as a Kiema. 
When reversed he becomes a Kiema-Nari-Kin, with all the powers (and those alone) of the 
Kin-shio. 

Kioshia moves directly forward only^ but that may be any number of steps. He may be 
reversed upon either of the first three rows of the adversary, and then becomes a Kioskia- 
Nari-Kin, with all the powers (and those alone) of the Kin-shio. 

Hishia has the entire p ^wers of our castle, and when reversed, he assumes the name of 
Riokio, (the dragoo,) an^ acquires, in addition to his former moves, all those of the 
Oho-shio. 

Kakuko has the entire powers of our bishop, and when reversed, he assumes the name 
of Eiome, (the dragoness,) and acquires, in addition to his former moves, all those of the 
Oho-shio. 

Ho moves forward one step only at a time, and may be reversed upon either of the first 
three rows of the adversary ; when so reversed, he becomes a Ho-Nari-Kin, and acquires 
all the powers of the Kin-shio. 

Besides the preceding moves and powers, any piece which has been taken may be 
replaced upon the board, at the discretion of the captor, as follows, viz. : when it is his 
move, instead of moving one of his men, he can replace any one of the captured pieces upon 
any unoccupied square whatever, observing to keep that side up to which it was entitled 
originally ; but it may be reversed at any move thereafter, if to or from any square in the 
before-mentioned three first rows of the adversary, and observing further, that he cannot 
replace a IIo, or (soldier,) on any column upon which there is ah-eady one of his own, i. e., 
he cannot double a Ho, or (soldier). 

It may be further stated, that no piece can pass over the head of any other piece in its 
move, except the Kiema. 



CHAPTER XXIV 



Interview between the Commodore and the representative of the Prince of Matsmai.— Southampton sen 
to explore Volcano bay, including Endermo harbor.— Report of the survey. — Poverty of the region 
around the bay. — Eruption of a volcano at midnight. — Ainos. — Boundaries of Americans at Hakodadi 
left to be settled with the imperial commissioners.— Good understanding between the Americans and 
people of Hakodadi.— Japanese delighted with the exhibition of the "Ethiopian minstrels " on board 
ship. — Squadron theatricals. — Interest of Japanese in the machinery and fire-arms of the ships. — An- 
swer of Hakodadi authorities to Commodore's inquiries as to European or American vessels wrecked 
in Japan during the last ten years. — Answer of the imperial commissioners to similar inquiries. — 
Macedonian sails for Simoda. — Vandalia dispatched for China by the western passage. — Japanese offi- 
cers desire a conference with the Commodore. — Flag-Lieutenant sent ashore to bring them on board 
— Disrespectful conduct of the officers. — Flag-Lieutenant returns without them. — Japanese officers 
finally come off in their own boat. — Not allowed to see the Commodore until they apologized for their 
behavior. — Apology accepted. — Conference results in nothing but a further illustration of Japanese 
finesse. — Burials of Americans at Hakodadi. — Eespect shown for the ceremonies by the Japanese,— 
Buddhist priest performs his funeral ceremonies after the Americans retire. — Services in a Buddhist 
temple. — Japanese erect a fence around the American graves. — Sailor's epitaph composed by his ship- 
mates. — Block of granite presented by the Japanese at Hakodadi for the Washington monument. — 
Volcano of Oho-sima. — Arrival at Simoda. — Meeting with the commissioners. — Boundaries at Hako- 
dadi settled. — Appointment of pilots and harbor-master agreed on. — Value of Japanese and American 
money respectively fixed. — Additional regulations between the commissioners and Commodore agreed 
to and signed. — Coal supplied at Simoda.— Its comparative quality and value.— Cost of various articles 
furnished to the ships. — Another block of stone for the Washington monument presented by the im- 
perial commissioners at Simoda.— Japanese present of dogs to the President. — Sam Patch has an in- 
terview with the officials of his country. — Refuses to go on shore or leave the ship.— Praiseworthy 
conduct of a marine toward Sam.— "Dan Ketch."— Japanese punishment of crucifixion. — Practice of 
the "hari kari" or " happy dispatch." — Departure from Simoda. — Macedonian and Supply sent to 
Formosa and Philippines. — Eedfield rocks. — Party sent on shore for observation of Oho-sima. — Arri- 
val at Lew Chew. — Southampton ordered to Hong Kong. — Powhatan and Mississippi come to anchor 
at Napha. 

N tlie afternoon of May 
19, the Commodore, 
having shifted his flag 
temporarily to the Mis- 
sissippi , received on 
board of that ship 
Matsmai Kangsayu, the 
great officer of the 
family of the prince of 
Matsmai, who had come, 
as had been announced, 
to meet the Americans 
on behalf of his supe- 
^ rior. He was accom- 
panied by Yen do Mata- 
zaimon, the hungo or 
governor of Hakodadi, 
[shuko Kenso, the Chinese interpreter, and several attendants. Af- 




SURVEY OF VOLCANO BAY. 535 

ter the usual interchange of compliments, the Commodore asked when he 
was to expect the arrival of the Prince of Matsmai himself Kangsayu 
replied, that it was impossible to say, as he was at Matsmai, and no com- 
munication had been received from him in reference to his coming. The 
Commodore then remarked, that if the prince did not come to see him he 
would be obliged to go and see the prince, since there was no one at Hako- 
dadi with whom a conference could be held in regard to the treaty. Upon 
this the Japanese rejoined, that, as the prince could not leave Matsmai 
himself, he had delegated his highest ofl&cer to meet the Commodore as 
his substitute, who was ready to put the treaty in operation. It was, 
however, added, that the Americans were asking for some things not speci- 
fied, inasmuch as the treaty was not to go into effect before the lapse of 
a year from its date. It was then explained to the Japanese, that this 
condition had reference to merchant vessels, but that the Commodore had 
made subsequent arrangements with the high commissioners about his pres- 
ent visit, the objects of which he was now desirous of accomplishing if 
Kangsayu had full powers to act in the matter. This dignitary then an- 
swered that he was clothed with complete local authority, but that neither 
he nor his prince could settle the boundary within which American inter- 
course was to be restricted without instructions from the court at Yedo. 

The wind now commenced blowing very hard, and the bay was so rough 
that the Japanese preferred remaining for some time on board the Missis- 
sippi, where they were handsomely entertained, and shown all the points 
and novelties of the steamer. After a long stay, in the course of which 
the Japanese were evidently gratified by all they saw (manifesting therein 
their usual intelligent interest) and by the attentions they received, they 
returned to the shore. 

On che next day the Southampton was dispatched by the Commodore 
to make a survey of Volcano Bay, including Endermo harbor, about sev- 
enty miles from Hakodadi, at the southeastern end of Yesso ; and it may 
be here appropriate, though somewhat anticipating the chronological order 
of events, to dispose of this part of our story, by giving a general report 
of the result of the survey. The ship arrived off the southern promon- 
tory of Volcano Bay at five o'clock on the afternoon of the day of her 
departure from Hakodadi. The wind soon lulled to a dead calm, and the 
bay was not entered until the next morning. The weather being very 
thick the ship bore away for the harbor of Endermo, and shortly after noon 
made the land ahead, which, being approached to within two miles, was 
coasted in ten fathoms of water, taking care to keep off when shoaling in 
that depth. The fog was so thick, and the breakers were so far off the 
shore, that it was not deemed prudent to approach too near the land ; and, 
consequently, the entrance to the harbor of Endermo, which is quite nar- 
row and shut in by adjacent points, could not be seen. Its position, how- 



536 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

ever, having been passed, and the ship continuing to run along the land by 
the lead until seven o'clock in the evening, came then to anchor in front 
of a small village. As the night advanced, the atmosphere cleared, for a 
moment, sufficiently to allow of the sight of several junks anchored near a 
large town about three miles distant. The fog soon gathered again, and con- 
tinued so thick all the rest of that night and the next day, with fresh 
breezes from E.S.E., that it was deemed more prudent to remain at anchor, 
and the ship did not again get under way until the 27th of May. 

At sunrise on that day, the fog having partly dispersed, the Southamp- 
ton stood for the eastern coast, sounding with a boat in five fathoms to 
within a mile and a half of the shore, and also running a line of soundings 
in the ship. As the morning advanced the fog cleared off, and revealed to 
view a charming scene of picturesque beauty. The land rose from the 
sandy beach in undulating heights covered with trees of dark green foliage, 
interspersed here and there with yellow spots of culture, while innu- 
merable houses were seen everywhere grouped at the openings of the 
ravines toward the sea, into which streams of fresh water poured, after 
irrigating the cultivated fields on the hill sides and the fertile bottoms of 
the valleys, and passing though the villages. 

The meridian observation having been taken, which gave the latitude 42° 
17', the ship, heading east, made for an indentation in the land, supposed 
to be the entrance to the harbor of Volcano Bay, and with a depth of 
water of seventeen fathoms and a fair wind, before which she was going at 
nine knots, the whole circuit of the large bay soon opened to the sight. 
An amphitheatre of lofty mountains, with summits covered with snow, 
surrounded the land, whicV. gradually lessened in height as it descended 
toward the hills and uplands that rose immediately from the shore. To 
the northeast were two volcanoes in active eruption, throwing out convul- 
sively their thick smoke, which, as it swept before the breeze, darkened with 
its passing but ever recurring shadow the snow which glittered like silver 
upon the sunlit summits of the neighboring mountains. 

Passing a small island, called Olason, from one of Captain Broughton's 
men who was buried there, the Southampton stood up the channel of Ender- 
mo, and anchored in the evening near the land, where a few houses, a forti- 
fication upon an adjacent hill, and some sheds upon the shore, indicated a 
settlement. Soon two officials came off in a boat, rowed by a number of 
Indians, (as they are called,) the native ainos, and upon reaching the ship 
the Japanese functionaries produced a bit of paper in which was wrapped 
some rice and a piece of wood, and displaying the contents, pointing at the 
same time to some water, asked, by signs, if either of these was required. 
The chief dignitary, who, in addition to the usual Japanese official costume, 
wore an outside coat with a red collar and a great deal of embroidery, and 
seemed to be a military personage, was not apparently disposed to be very 



ENDERMO BAT. 537 

friendly towards his visitors. Upon his being made to understand that if 
any fish, vegetables, eggs, or poultry could be obtained from the land, the 
Americans would be glad to purchase them, the Japanese officer sent his 
boat ashore, apparently with the view of ascertaining. Upon its return, 
the only article brought back was a bundle of stems, looking like those of 
the rhubarb plant, with the information that, in consequence of the weather, 
there were no fish, and only three chickens in the place. 

Next morning a surveying party commenced their operations in the bay, 
and continued them during the stay of the ship. Little was to be had from 
the shore in the way of provisions, but the bay abounded in clams, mus- 
cles, and fish, and large supplies were obtained. The inhabitants, who 
were mostly ainos, had been very much alarmed at the arrival of the 
Southampton, and were seen hurrying away from the harbor and village 
with all their property heaped upon their backs, so that the land was quite 
deserted. The few Japanese officials became gradually more friendly, and 
frequently visited the ship and partook of its hospitalities. Nothing 
occurred of especial interest during the visit to Endermo Bay beyond 
the blazing up one night of another volcano, making three which were 
seen from the ship in a state of active eruption at the same time. The 
sudden starting up of a broad and vivid flame from the summit of a moun- 
tain in the midst of the night, dispelling at once the darkness which envel- 
oped sea and land, produced a grand eff'ect. The other two volcanoes 
merely emitted smoke, while the third continued in a blaze. 

Lieutenant Boyle, commander of the Southampton, visited Olason 
island, at the mouth of Endermo Bay, previous to his departure, and 
found the grave of the buri?d sailor left there by Captain Broughton. 
The Japanese authorities had h?spected the remains, though they had been 
interred more than three-fourths of a century, and built on the spot where 
they rested one of the usual tombs of the country, with the ordinary marks 
of mourning. The survey having been completed, the ship sailed to join 
the squadron at Simoda, pursuant to orders. 

The Commodore, on the next day after the visit from Kangsayu, went 
on shore to call upon this dignitary, who, after having presented his cre- 
dentials from the Prince of Matsmai, and emphatically declared that the 
latter could not possibly come to Hakodadi, was officially recognized as 
the representative of his superior. He, however, refused to settle defini- 
tively the question of the boundary within which the Americans, in their 
intercourse with the place, were to be restricted, and the subject was finally 
disposed of by a mutual agreement that it should be referred to the com- 
missioners who were to meet the Commodore at Simoda. During the fre- 
quent visits of the Americans on shore, occasional disagreements arose in 
regard to their relations with the shopkeepers and the extent and freedom 
jf their walks in the town and about the country. These little troubles, 



,j615 expedition TO JAPAN. 

which, although they gave rise to much tedious negotiation, were uniformly 
settled by mutual explanations, produced in the end the establishment of an 
excellent understanding, and the most friendly feelings between our coun- 
trymen and all classes of the Japanese. 

The governor and his attendants continued to visit the ships frequent- 
ly, when they were uniformly entertained with refreshments, and sometimes 
invited to a more ceremonious dinner, of which they always partook with a 
proper appreciation both of the viands and the courtesy. On one occasion, 
some of the sailors got up a concert of " Ethiopian minstrels," which seemed 
to give as much delight to the natives at Hakodadi as it had done to the 
commissioners in the bay of Yedo. The performance undoubtedly showed 
that talent for grotesque humor and comic yet sentimental melody which 
are, as some think, characteristic of the sailor, the monotony of whose life 
on shipboard is often compensated by that hearty flow of animal spirits with 
which natures, invigorated by a hard and hazardous occupation, console 
themselves for its risk and privation. The sentimental strain, too, in which 
the sailor sometimes indulges, is naturally the antagonistic tone with which 
the mind, surrounded by its rude associations, opposes their petrifyiug in- 
fluence. All the sailors' rough humor is hence toned down by a gentler 
touch of feeling. The negro minstrelsy, which not only wrinkles the face 
with a broad and noisy laugh, but also can moisten the eye with a tear, is 
consequently a great favorite with Jack. The sailors performed their parts 
with a sympathetic interest and an earnest intensity, which would have 
carried with them the frequenters of Christy's, and produced a marked eiiect 
even upon their sedate Japanese listeners, and thus confirmed the universal 
popularity of " the Ethopians" by a decided hit in Japan. Everything was 
arranged appropriately as to dresses and scenery, much as it would have 
been at home. Bills of the performance, too, were printed by the aid of 
the press, which was on board one of the ships of the squadron, and freely 
worked within the dominions of the Emperor of Japan, without regarding 
any censorship that he might possibly be disposed to establish. American 
like, our men stuck to the principle of a " free press," on the ground that 
the press itself and popular opinion are about the best correctives of the 
abuse of the press. And here we may remark, that theatrical performances 
in the squadron were not confined to " Ethiopian minstrelsy." Histrionic 
ambition took a higher flight, and ventured on the " legitimate drama." 
There was more than one company of Thespians in the squadron, composed 
of the men, who acquitted themselves very creditably. They generally 
selected some good-natured ofiicer, known to have a taste for theatricals, to 
give them some general instructions, and help them at rehearsals, and with 
such aid, added to natural cleverness and quickness of parts, they succeed- 
2d very weU. The female characters were allotted to boys, and all the 



SHIPWRECKS IN YESSO. 539 

appliances of scenery and appropriate costume were called in to give great- 
er effect. 

The Japanese officials took especial interest, on the occasion of their 
frequent visits to the ships, in the inspection of the armament, and were 
often gratified with the exercise of the guns, the filling of the shells, and 
other matters of military discipline and practice. Though, in their later 
history a pacific people, the Japanese, as we have already said, are fond of 
military display, and seemed particularly desirous of scrutinizing all the 
warlike appointments which made their A'isitors so formidable; as if they 
felt the necessity, in the new relations which were opening with foreigners, 
of studying and adopting the best means of attack and defence, should 
either ever become necessary by any future collision with the great powers 
of the west. With proper training, no people would make better soldiers. 
E very opportunity was afforded them, without restriction, of satisfying their 
curiosity, which was naturally directed toward those points in which they 
were conscious of their greatest weakness ; and this liberality of the Amer- 
icans, in the free exposition of their power, deeply impressed the Japanese 
with a conviction of the pacific intentions of their visitors, who desired to 
show that they looked to a friendly intercourse, and not to a violent invasion, 
for those mutual benefits which were to accrue from more intimate relations 
between the United States and Japan. 

A valuable communication was received from the authorities at Hako- 
dadi, in answer to certain inquiries made by the Commodore in regard to 
the various American and European vessels which were supposed to have 
been wrecked at different times upon the coast of the Empire. There was 
reason to suppose that several vessels which had been lost, and never heard 
of in the countries from which they had sailed, had been wrecked on the 
shores of the island of Yesso ; and it was thought possible, from the hitherto 
inhospitable conduct of the Japanese government towards foreigners, that 
some who had been cast by calamity upon its mercy might yet be held in 
captivity. It was, therefore, a great satisfaction to receive the following 
answer from the Hakodadi officials : 

" From the third year of Ohoka to the third of Kayee, [1847 to 1851,] 
there were five foreign vessels wrecked by storms on our coasts, whose crews 
have all been sent on to Nagasaki, thence to be sent by the Dutch back to 
their homes ; not one now remains in Japan. 

" In 1847, June, seven American sailors were drifted ashore at Yetoroop 
in a boat. 

"In 1847, June, thirteen American sailors in three boats were thrown 
ashore at Yeramachi, N. W. of Matsmai. 

" In 31arch, 1849, three men from an American ship went ashore at 
Karafto, the south end of Saghalien, and then went off. 



540 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN, 

"In May, 1850, an English ship was wrecked at Mabiru, in Yesso, from 
which thirty-two men came ; but where they came from we know not." 

The Commodore also addressed to the imperial commissioners, with 
whom the terms of the treaty were negotiated, a communication on the 
same subject, and received the following reply : 

" To His Excellency Commodore Ferry : 

*' The undersigned have well understood your written communication in 
reference to ships navigating the Pacific, the Chinese, and Japanese seas, 
which have never been heard of at their ports of destination ; and the prob- 
able fate of their crews being uncertain, his majesty the President has 
ordered inquiries to be made on the subject, and ships-of-war have been 
sent to Borneo, Formosa, and other islands ; and that two ships were again 
to sail to Formosa, by your order, for a similar purpose. 

" In reply to your request for a list of all the ships which have been 
wrecked in Japan for the last ten years, we have the honor to state as 
follows : 

" In 1847, some Americans, shipwrecked in the principality of Matsmai, 
were sent to Nagasaki to take passage in the Dutch trading ships. 

" In 1848, some Americans shipwrecked in the same principality were 
sent to Nagasaki, and thence taken away by an American ship-of-war. 
[This was the Preble.] 

" In the year 1850, some Americans and Englishmen, shipwrecked, 
were sent to Nagasaki, to go in the Dutch trading ships. 

" Beside the three instances just mentioned, there has been no ship- 
wreck, and there are no foreigners now in Japan. The local authorities 
having settled this business, we are not able to give you the names of the 
shipwrecked persons. 

" We have the honor to be, with great respect, 

"BY THE IMPERIAL COMMISSIONERS. 

" Seal attached by the order of the high gentlemen. 

" MORYAMA YENOSKE." 

On the morning of the 31st of May the Macedonian sailed for Simoda, 
and the Vandalia for Shanghai, the latter vessel being directed by the Com- 
modore to take the western passage by passing through the Straits of San- 
gar, the Japan sea, and China gulf. The steamers still remained at Hako- 
dadi, to await the arrival of those personages whom the commissioners had 
promised to send there to meet the Americans and settle the stipulations of 
the treaty in regard to that place. The Commodore was naturally some- 
what impatient at the delay in the coming of the expected delegation, as, 
in accordance with his agreement to that eflfect, he was obliged to return to 



RUDENESS OF JAPANESE OFFICERS. 541 

SImoda on the 15tli day of June, and tlie last day of the previous month 
had now passed. On the morning of the 1st of June, however, a communi- 
cation was received by the Commodore, written in Japanese, Chinese, and 
Dutch, of which the following is an English translation : 

" The Japanese imperial government officers, Amma Zhium-noshin and 
Harayama Kenzhiro, and others, desire a conference with his excellency the 
plenipotentiary of the United States and other officers. 

" They have received orders from the court to go to Karafto, and, learn- 
ing that your ships were at Hakodadi examining its harbor, in accordance 
with the treaty of Kanagawa, have come, as these distant frontier places are 
not fully apprised of all these matters, and perhaps there may be some 
mistake or misapprehension. We have requested of our superior officer 
presently to come and deliberate upon such matters as may come up, as was 
done at Yoku-hama ; but he has taken a passage by sea, and has already 
gone on to Karafto. We are unable, therefore, to tarry behind him for 
more than three days in order to confer with your honor. 

" We wish you much peace." 

This was not very explicit, but it seemed apparent that, although these 
dignitaries affected, in their letter, merely to have called, as it were, in pass- 
ing, they were delegated by the government to make the visit. In accord- 
ance, however, with the indirect policy of Japanese diplomacy, it was 
deemed expedient to make use of a subterfuge, by which the intention of the 
government, of deferring all negotiation until the meeting of the commis- 
sioners, might be accomplished and yet concealed, for fear of offending the 
sensibilities of the Americans by this change in the original arrangement. 
The flag-lieutenant, Mr. Bent, was sent by the Commodore to meet the 
Japanese delegates, and inform them that they would be received on board 
the Powhatan at any time they might appoint. One o'clock was accordingly 
named, and at that hour the boat was sent ashore to receive the Japanese 
officials and bring them to the ship. On the flag-lieutenant's arriving at the 
government house, and sending word that he was in waiting to conduct the 
deputies to the Commodore, he was told that these gentlemen were at lun- 
cheon. After a due exercise of patience for more than an hour, the chief 
deputy and two of his suite presented themselves, and very deliberately, 
instead of proceeding to the boat, took their seats in the custom-house, and 
leisurely refreshed themselves with tea and pipes. The flag-lieutenant very 
courteously reminded them that it was time to go ; but these dignitaries, 
with the greatest self-composure imaginable, continued to sip their tea and 
smoke their pipes, and showed by their manner that, such was the idea of 
their own importance, that not only time and tide, but flag-lieutenants, should 
wait their leisure. This conduct was the more remarkable from a people so 
habitually ceremonious and polite. The officer, therefore, very properly said 
that the boat sent by the Commodore was at the steps, and was then going 



542 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

off to the ship, and if they chose to take passage in it he would he pleased to 
have their company ; if not, they would be obliged to find their own convey- 
ance; but, as the appointed hour had long since passed, it was doubtful 
whether they would be received by the Commodore at all. They then re- 
plied, without, apparently, making any effort to hurry themselves, that they 
were waiting for their companions. 

The flag-lieutenant now, without more ado, took his departure, and, get- 
ting into the boat, put off for the ship. On his way thither he was met by a 
messenger from the Commodore, with the command to wait no longer for 
the deputies, unless they had some good reason for their delay. On the 
flag-lieutenant's making his report, orders were given to prepare for another 
visit to the land, with a stronger demonstration of earnestness. The depu- 
ties, however, in the mean time arrived, and, as they presented themselves 
at the gangway of the Powhatan, the flag-lieutenant demanded, in the name 
of the Commodore, an explanation of their delay. The Japanese function- 
aries then having offered as an apology that they had been delayed in pur- 
chasing a few articles as presents for the American ambassador, were treated 
as if they told the truth, and conducted to the Commodore's cabin, where 
they held a short conference, and refreshments were hospitably set before 
them. They repeated in conversation the tenor of their note, and said they 
had no authority to settle the boundaries in Hakodadi. Of course there 
was no occasion to confer further with them, and the Commodore no longer 
pressed the matter, but determined to postpone all negotiations until he 
should meet the imperial commissioners at Simoda, the appointed time for 
which meeting was now rapidly approaching. 

On parting with these Japanese ofiicials, the Commodore took occasion, 
while expressing his gratification at the general kindness and courtesy of 
the authorities and people at Hakodadi, to remark, that the inhabitants still 
seemed suspicious of the Americans, as they continued to shut their houses 
and remove the women from observation. To this the deputies returned a 
written reply, which, as it presents a document singularly characteristic of 
the gentle, conciliatory tone of the Japanese, and of their ingenuity in the 
work of self-justification, and also exhibits the moderate style of their official 
communications, we give at length : 

" To hear from the Commodore that, since his arrival in Hakodadi, he 
has been much pleased with his intercourse and communications with the 
local authorities, is truly a great gratification to us. With regard to going 
through the streets, and seeing shops and houses shut, with neither women 
nor children in the ways, let it be here observed, that at Yoku-hama this 
very matter was plainly spoken of by Moryama, the interpreter, at that 
place. The customs of our country are unlike yours, and the people have 
been unused to see people from foreign lands; and though the authorities 
did what they could to pacify them, and teach them better, they still were 



FUNERAL AT HAKODADI. 543 

disinclined to believe, and many absconded or bid tbemselves. If the Com- 
modore will recall to mind the day when he took a ramble to Yoku-hama, in 
which some of us accompanied him, he will recollect that in the villages and 
houses we hardly saw one woman during the whole walk. If he saw more 
of them at Simoda, as he went about, it was because there the people were 
gradually accustomed to the Americans, and their fears had been allayed, so 
that they felt no dread. 

" On these remote frontiers, many miles from Yedo, the usages of the 
people are so fixed that they are not easily influenced and altered ; but, pray, 
how can the inhabitants here think of regarding Americans with inimical 
feelings ? Even when they see their own officers, with the persons of whom 
they are not familiar, they also run aside, and, as from fear, seek to escape 
us. This is the custom of our country that officers should accompany visit- 
ors about — a custom not to be so soon changed. Still, the disposition of 
the men here is ingenuous, brave, upright, and good, and that of the women 
retiring and modest, not gazing at men as if without bashfulness. Such 
characteristics and such usages must be considered as estimable, and we 
think that you also will not dislike them. 

" In general, when upright, cordial propriety marks intercourse, then 
peace, good feeling, and harmony are real between the parties ; but if harsh- 
ness, violence, and grasping characterize it, then hate and distrust with col- 
lision arise, and love will not be found to bring the hearts of the people to- 
gether. This is a rule of heaven, concerning which no one can have any 
doubt." 

The authorities of Hakodadi had set apart and fenced off, for the inter- 
ment of the American deadTa portion of a small, neglected burial ground, 
situated in an easterly direction, beyond the town and near the forts. The 
spot is exceedingly picturesque, and commands a fine view of the harbor, the 
Straits of Sangar, and the adjacent coasts. It was the melancholy duty of 
our countrymen to deposit there the remains of two of their shipmates, who, 
after a long illness, died during the stay of the squadron in that port. The 
funerals were conducted with the usual naval and religious ceremonies. 
After a short preliminary service on board ship, the escort, consisting of seve- 
ral officers and a number of seamen and marines, in four boats, conducted 
the bodies ashore, the boats and all the ships with flags at half-mast. On 
reaching the land, the procession was formed, and as it marched with slow 
step and muffled drums to the burial place, a large concourse of Japanese 
collected and followed it to the grave. The chaplain, the Rev. Mr. Jones, 
read the burial service of the Protestant Episcopal church, and, after the 
services had terminated, many of the natives gathered around him, (he wear- 
ing his clerical gown, by which they understood his character as a minister 
of religion,) and, although they evinced much curiosity, they never forgot the 
respect which they seemed to think due to his religious office. This was the 



544 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

fourth funeral among the Americans in Japan, and knowing the very strong 
prejudice against Christianity, and, indeed, the very violent opposition to it 
manifested by the Japanese, Mr. Jones had felt uncertain, when his duty 
required him to ojficiate at the first interment, how far he would be permit- 
ted to proceed unmolested. He accordingly asked the Commodore for 
directions, and was told, " Do exactly as you always do on such occasions, 
no more, nor no less;" and in answer to his inquiry how he should act if 
interrupted, the answer was, " still go on and have your usual service." No 
opposition, however, was made, and the chaplain felt that it was a day to be 
remembered, that, after the lapse of centuries, a minister of Christ stood, in 
his person, upon the soil qf Japan, and, unmolested, performed one of the 
rites of his faith. He could not but remember, that, more than two hundred 
years before, it had been written in Japan, " so long as the sun shall warm 
the earth, let no Christian be so bold as to come to Japan ; and let all know 
that the king of Spain himself, or the Christian's God or the great God of 
all, if he violate this command, shall pay for it with his head." The first 
funeral was at Yoku-hama, the second at Simoda, and the last two at Hako- 
dadi. Respect for the ceremonies was shown by the Japanese at all ; and at 
the latter place the natives often alluded, in their intercourse with Mr. 
Jones, to his officiating at the grave, and called him, in their language, " the 
praying man;" and instead of losing standing among them from his office, 
as he expected to do, he found himself treated with increased friendliness 
and attention. 

By the burial ground at Hakodadi, which was allotted to our countrymen, 
and had been long used by the Japanese themselves, there is a Buddhist temple, 
surrounded with an enclosure containing large roughly carved stones, intended 
to represent deities, and inscribed with various devices and religious apo- 
thegms. There are also several of the rotary praying machines, already de- 
scribed ; and when the chaplain turned inquiringly to the apparatus, the Japa- 
nese put their hands together, signifying that it was intended for prayer, and 
then pointed to the prayer-book in Mr. Jones's hands, implying that it was 
used for the same purpose ; an explanation which the good chaplain felt to 
be anything but a compliment to his much valued manual of devotion. By 
the way, on the subject of prayer, the chaplain had an opportunity to obtain 
further information. One day he wandered into a Buddhist temple when 
the Japanese were at worship. There was a large altar exactly similar to 
that in a Romish church, with a gilt image in its recess ; two handsome 
lamps lighted, two large candles burning, artificial flowers, &c., with an 
abundance of gilding ; there were also two side altars with candles on them 
burnino-. Before the principal altar, within an enclosure, were five priests, 
robed and on their knees, the chief one striking a small saucer-shaped bell, 
and three others with padded drumsticks striking hollow wooden lacquered 
vessels, which emitted a dull sound. They kept time, and toned their 



JAPANESE PRAYERS. 545 

prayers to their music in chanting ; after chanting, they knelt again, and 
touched the floor with their foreheads ; after which they repaired to the 
side altars, and had a short ceremony before each of them. When all was 
over, one of the priests approached, and, pointing to an image, asked Mr, 
Jones what it was called in America. He answered : " Nai," " we have it 
not." He then pointed to the altars and asked the same question, to which 
he received the same reply. When the chaplain left the temple, as he 
walked on, his official attendant asked him " if the people prayed in Amer- 
ica ? " He was answered in the affirmative, and Mr. Jones, dropping on one 
knee, joined his hands, and with upturned face, closed his eyes, and pointed 
to the heavens, to intimate by signs that we pray to a Being there. He 
then asked his attendants if they prayed to that Bc'ng ? He replied : 
" Yes ; we pray to Tien," their word for heaven or Grod. 

To return to our narrative of matters connected with the funeral, it was 
found, in a few days after the interment of our countrymen, that the Japa- 
nese authorities had caused to be erected a new picket fence around the 
American graves, before it was known to our officers.* 

After a farewell visit of ceremony on shore, and an interchange of 
courtesies and presents, (among which was a block of granite for the Wash- 
ington monument,) the Powhatan and Mississippi, which were the only 
vessels of the squadron left, took their departure for Simoda on the 3d of 
June, 1854. The steamers, however, had hardly got under way at early 
sunrise, when they were obliged to anchor again at the mouth of the bay, 
in consequence of a dense fog. It was providential that the weather had 
remained clear a sufficient time to allow of securing some bearing for a safe 
anchorage. As the day advanced the fog was dissipated, and the two 
steamers, weighing again, got clear of the straits before night. 

* The seamen of tlie Vandalia, to the crew of which ship the deceased had helonged, 
with a pious reverence for their departed shipmates sleeping in that distant land, erected a 
gravestone, upon which was inscrihed an epitaph of their own composition, in the following 
words, cut by the Japanese in English letters from a copy furnished them : 

" Sleeping on a foreign shore, 
Rest, sailor, rest ! thy trials o'er ; 
Thy shipmates leave this token here, 
That some, perchance, may drop a tear 
For one that braved so long the blast, 
And served his country to the last." 

The want of poetic inspiration in this humble tribute may well be forgiven for the sake 
of its mingled affection and patriotism. Poor Jack may not be able to write poetry, and 
yet his heart may feel as strongly as another man's those deep emotions of our nature 
which underlie the poet's work, when, " with his singing-robes about him," he soars aloft 
with his impassioned gushes of spirit-stirring song, or, it may be, in gentler mood, breathes, 
as it were, on .(Eolian harp-strings, making the sadder " music that can move to tears." 

35 



54G EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

On the fiftbi day out, the smoke of the volcano of Oho-sima was discov- 
ered in the distance, and the land was soon distinctly made ; but the weather 
becoming very thick from the rain and mist, it was found necessary to 
put the ships' heads off shore, and continue under low steam during the 
night. The fog continuing while the ships were among the islands in the 
Gulf of Yedo, caused a delay of full twenty-four hours, and they conse- 
quently did not arrive at Simoda until the 7th of June, which, however, 
was one day before the time appointed for a meeting of the Commodore 
with the commissioners. Nothing of especial interest occurred during the 
passage. A very large number of whales was observed, and the strong 
eastward current was remarked as before. 

At noon, the Powhatan, passing Yandalia bluff at the entrance of Simo- 
da harbor, ran in and came to anchor in her former berth, followed by her 
consort the Mississippi. The store-ship Supply was found at anchor in the 
harbor. Shortly after anchoring, some of the Japanese officers came on 
board the flag-ship, and cordially welcoming the Commodore on his return 
to Simoda, informed him that the commissioners had arrived from Yedo with 
an addition of two to their number. As the Commodore was very desirous 
of completing his business with these functionaries, who, judging from past 
experience, would probably be somewhat slow in all their movements, he 
sent his flag-lieutenant on shore to propose an immediate interview. It 
was ascertained by this officer that the commissioners were out of town, but 
very soon after a message arrived, to the effect that they would return at 
once, and be in readiness to meet the Commodore the next day at noon. 

The Commodore landed with a suitable escort on the next day, and was 
received at the temple by the commissioners, with the usual formal compli- 
ments. The two new members of the commission were presented by their 
names and titles as Tzudsuki, Suraga-no-kami, (prince of Suraga,) and Take- 
no-uchisetaro, comptroller of the revenues : the chief commissioner then stated 
that Simoda had been made an imperial city, and that Izawa, Prince of 
Mimasaki, and Tzudsuki had been appointed its governors, with Kura-kawa- 
kahei and Ise-sin-toheiro as lieutenant-governors. In consequence of this 
new organization, the commissioners declared that it would be necessary to 
establish certain boundaries to the city by means of walls and gates, in 
order to define the limits of the imperial jurisdiction ; and asked whether 
the Commodore would object to the erection of such, with the understand- 
ing that the Americans should have the privilege of going where and when 
they pleased within them, and beyond them, on ashing permission^ which 
permission would always readily be granted. The Commodore replied that 
he had no desire to interfere with any plans of the government, provided 
they did not violate the stipulations of the treaty ; and, reminding them 
that the Americans had a perfect right, guaranteed to them by that docu- 
ment, of moving unmolested within the limits of seven li or W, said tha^ 



CONFERENCES WITH THE COMMISSIONERS. . 547 

of course, lie would leave what was beyond that distance to be governed by 
their own regulations.* It was then mutually agreed that three American 
oflScers should accompany the Japanese officers appointed to affix the 
boundaries, and regulate the erection of the walls and gates at Simoda. 
The Commodore, however, positively refused to consent that Americans 
should ask any permission of the Japanese officers, or of any one else, to go 
anywhere within the limits of the seven ri fixed by the treaty, they, of 
course, conducting themselves properly and peaceably. 

The great discussion, however, was concerning the boundaries within 
which our countrymen might go at Hakodadi. These had not yet been 
settled at all. The Japanese wished to confine the Americans within the 
city itself; but as the Commodore protested most strongly against this, the 
subject was postponed for future consideration. The commissioners having 
stated that a special place had been set apart for the burial of the Ameri- 
cans, asked permission to have the body of the man buried at Yoku-hama 
removed to Simoda. This was granted, and a promise made that proper 
persons from the squadron should be selected to assist in the removal. 

The suggestion of the Commodore that pilots and a harbor-master 
should be appointed, was readily acceded to by the commissioners, who 
promised that suitable persons should be chosen and made acquainted with 
their duties. The conference then closed, and was resumed on the following 
day, in the course of which the question again came up in regard to the 
limits at Hakodadi, but its settlement was, for the second time, postponed. 
A general conversation ensued over the refreshments with which the Japa- 
nese entertained their guests, in which the commissioners showed, by their 
inquiries, that lively interest which was uniformly exhibited among the 
educated classes in the events transpiring in difi'erent parts of the world. 
They were very curious to know something about the products and manu- 
factures of the United States, and asked our views in regard to China and 
its revolution, and concerning the war between Russia and Turkey. 

Another conference took place on the succeeding day, but without any 
definite result in regard to the limits at Hakodadi, although the question 
was discussed for several hours. An attempt was made by the commission- 
ers to obtain the consent of the Commodore to a regulation prohibiting the 
Americans from remaining on shore after sunset, which was positively 
refused. Two (the newly appointed commissioners) had been chosen 
expressly to settle the question in regard to the comparative value of 
the Japanese and United States currencies, and Pursers Speiden and 
Eldridge were selected by the Commodore to confer with them on that 

* A n is equal to 2 -y%^^jj English statute miles ; 6 feet is equal to 1 ken ; 60 kens make 
1 choo ; 36 chocs make 1 ri. The fans of the Japanese are of uniform size, six of them 
making five English feet. They are used as measures, recognized by the laws. 



548 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

subject. An important result ensued, embodied in an interesting and 
valuable report made by those gentlemen to tbe Commodore.* 

After a succession of daily conferences, which continued from the 8th to 
the 17th of June, a mutual agreement was finally adjusted on the latter day, 
in regard to the various disputed points of detail not specified in the treaty. 
These are embodied in the following additional regulations : 

* The following correspondence embraces the official action on tHs point : 

United States Flag-ship Powhatan. 

Simoda, June 12, 1854. 
Gentlemen : You are hereby appointed to the duty of holding communication -with 
certain Japanese officials delegated by the imperial government, in conformity with the 
treaty of Kanagawa, to arrange with officers, alike delegated by me, the rate of currency 
and exchange which shall for the present govern the payments to be made, by the several 
ships of the squadron, for articles that have been and are to be obtained ; also to establish, 
as far as can be done, the price at which coal, per picul or ton, can be delivered on board at 
this port of Simoda. 

It is not to be understood that the rate of currency or exchange which may be agreed 
upon at this time is to be permanent ; on the contrary, it is intended only to answer im- 
mediate purposes. Neither you nor myself are sufficiently acquainted with the purity and 
value of the Japanese coins to establish a fixed rate of exchange, even if I had the power 
to recognize such arrangement. 

It will, however, be very desirable for you to make yourselves acquainted with all the 
peculiarities of the Japanese currency, and also, if practicable, with the laws appertaining 
thereto, as the information will be valuable in facilitating all future negotiations upon the 
subject. 

You will, of course, before entering into any agreement which may be considered 
binding, refer to me. 

Very respectfully, your obedient servant, 

M. C. PERRY, 
Gommanderin-Chief of the United States Naval Forces in the 
East India and China Seas. 
Purser William Speiden, United States Navy. 
Purser J. C. Eldridge, United States Navy. 



United States Steam-frigate Powhatan, 

Simoda, June 15, 1854. 

Sir : The committee appointed by you, in your letter of the 12th instant, to confer with 
a committee from the Japanese commissioners in reference to the rate of exchange and 
currency between the two nations in the trade at the ports opened, and to settle the price 
of coal to be delivered at this port, beg leave to report : 

The Japanese committee, it was soon seen, came to the conference with their minds 
made up to adhere to the valuation they had already set upon our coins, even if the alter- 
native was the immediate cessation of trade. The basis upon which they made their cal- 
culation was the nominal rate at which the government sells bullion when it is purchased 
from the mint, and which seems also to be that by which the metal is received from the 
mines. The Japanese have a decimal system of weight, like the Chinese, of cattj'^, tael, 



ADDITIONAL KEGULATIONS. 549 

Additional regulations, agreed to between Commodore Matthew C. Perry, 
special envoy to Japan from the United States of America, and H.a- 
yashi Daigaku-no-kami ; Ido, Prince of Tsus-sima ; Izawa, Prince of 
Mimasaki ; Tsudzuki, Prince of Suruga ; TJdono, member of the 
board of revenue : Take-no-uchi Shcitaro, and Matsusaki Michitaro, 
commissioners of the Emperor of Japan, on behalf of their respective 
governments. 

Article I. — The imperial governors of Simoda will place watch stations 
wherever they deem best, to designate the limits of their jurisdiction ; but 
Americans are at liberty to go through them, unrestricted, within the limits 



mace, candareen, and cash, by which articles in general are weighed ; hut gold and silver 
are not reckoned above taels. In China, a tael of silver, in weight, and one in currency, 
are the same, for the Chinese have no silver coin ; but in Japan, as in European countries 
the standard of value weight and that of currency weight differ. We were told that a tael 
weight of silver has now come to be reckoned, when it is bullion, as equal to 225 canda- 
reens, or 2 taels, 2 mace, 5 candareens ; but, when coined, the same amount in weight is 
held to be worth 6 taels, 4 mace. It is at the bullion value that the government has de- 
cided to receive our dollar, the same at which they take the silver from the mines ; assert- 
ing that, as its present die and assay give it no additional value, it is worth no more to 
them. In proportion to a tael a doUar weighs 7 mace, 11-5 candareen, which, at the rates 
of bullion value, makes it worth 1 tael, 6 mace, or 1,600 cash. Thus the Japanese gov- 
ernment will make a profit of 66-| per cent on every dollar paid them of fuU weight, with 
the trifling deduction of the expense of re-coining it. The injustice of this arrangement 
was shown, and the propriety of paying to the seller himself the coin we gave at this depre- 
ciated rate urged, but in vain. 

For gold the rate is more, as the disparity between the value of bullion and that of coin, 
among the Japanese, is not so great. A tael weight of gold is valued at 19 taels in cur- 
rency, and a mace at 1 tael, 9 mace. The gold dollar weighs almost 5 candareens, but the 
Japanese have reckoned it as the twentieth part of a $20 piece, which they give as 8 mace, 
8 candareens ; and, consequently, the dollar is only 4 candareens, 4 cash. This weight 
brings the gold doUar, when compared with the tael of bullion gold worth 19 taels, to be 
worth 836 cash, and the $20 piece to be worth 16,720 cash, or 16 taels, 7 mace, 2 canda- 
reens. This, when converted into a silver value, makes a gold dollar worth 52:^ cents, and 
a $20 piece worth $10 45, at which the Japanese propose to take them. But this valuation 
of the gold dollar at 52^ cents, when reckoned at 836 cash, its assessed value by the Ja- 
panese government, suffers the same depreciation as our silver ; and its real value, when 
compared with the inflated currency in use among the people, is only about 174 cents. 
Consequently, by this estimate, gold becomes 50 per cent, worse for us to pay in than sil- 
ver. The currency value of a gold dollar, taking the ichihu as of equal purity, and com- 
paring them weight for weight, is only 1,045 cash, or nearly 22 cents in silver ; so that the 
actual depreciation on the part of the Japanese is not so great as silver — being for the two 
metals, when weighed with each other, for silver as 100 to 33|-, and for gold as 22 to 17. 
The elements of this comparison are not quite certain, and therefore its results are some- 
what doubtful ; but the extraordinary discrepancy of both metals, compared with our coins 
and with their own copper coins, shows how the government has inflated the whole mone- 
tary system in order to benefit itself. 



550 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

of seven Japanese ri, or miles; and those who are found transgressing 
Japanese laws may be apprehended by the police and taken on board their 



Article II. — Three landing-places shall be constructed for the boats of 
merchant ships and whale-ships resorting to this port ; one at Simoda, one 
at Kakizaki, and the third at the brook lying southeast of Centre Island. 
The citizens of the United States will, of course, treat the Japanese officers 
with proper respect. 

Article III. — Americans, when on shore, are not allowed access to mil- 
itary establishments or private houses without leave ; but they can enter 
shops and visit temples as they please. 

Article IV. — Two temples, the Rioshen at Simoda, and the Yokushen 
at Kakizaki, are assigned as resting-places for persons in their walks, until 
public houses and inns are erected for their convenience. 

Article V. — Near the temple Yokushen, at Kakizaki, a burial-ground 
has been set apart for Americans, where their graves and tombs shall not be 
molested. 

Article YI. — It is stipulated in the treaty of Kanagawa, that coal will 
be furnished at Hakodadi ; but as it is very difficult for the Japanese to 



The parties coiild come to no agreement, as we declined to consent to the proposals of 
the Japanese, who were decided to adhere to their valuation of a silver dollar at 1 tael, 6 
mace, or 1,600 cash ; neither would they consent to do justly hy us in relation to the 
moneys paid them at this place hefore our departure for Hakodadi, at the rate of only 1 tael, 
2 mace, or 1,200 cash, to the dollar, hy which they had made a profit of 75 per cent, on 
each dollar, stating that the money paid them at this rate had passed out of their hands . 
and, moreover, that the prices placed upon the articles furnished had heen charged at re- 
duced prices with reference to the low value placed upon the dollar. 

For the amount due and unsettled, for supplies received at Yoku-hama, and on account 
of which Purser Eldridge paid Moryama Yenoske, imperial interpreter, $350 in gold and 
silver, that they might he assayed and tested at Yedo, they consent to receive the dollar at 
the valuation now placed on them ; that is, at the rate of 1,600 cash for the silver dollar. 

We carefully investigated the price of the coal to he delivered to vessels in this port. 
"We learn that 10,000 catties or 100 piculs have arrived; and this, at the rate of 1,680 
catties to a ton of 2,240 pounds, or 16 4-5 piculs, costs 262 taels, 6 mace, 5 candareens, 3 
cash, or |164 16 ; making the rate to he $27 91 per ton. The Japanese state that the 
price of coal would he considerably reduced as the demand for it increased, and their faciH- 
ties for mining became more perfect. 

In conclusion, we take pleasure in expressing our thanks to Messrs. Williams and Port- 
man, whose services as interpreters were indispensable, and from whom we received im- 
portant aid in our investigations. 

We have the honor to be, respectfully, your obedient servants, 

WILLIAM SPEIDEN, Purser United States Navy. 
J. C. ELDRIDGE, Purser United States Navy. 
Commodore M. C. Perry, 

Commander-in-dmf of the United States Naval Forces in the East India and China Seas, 



QUESTION OF LIMITS. 551 

supply it at that port, Commodore Perry promises to mention this to his 
government, in order that the Japanese government may be relieved from 
the obligation of making that port a coal depot. 

Article VII. — It is agreed that henceforth the Chinese language shall 
not be employed in official communications between the two governments, 
except when there is no Dutch interpreter. 

Article VIII. — A harbor-master and three skilful pilots have been 
appointed for the port of Simoda. 

Article IX. — Whenever goods are selected in the shops, they shall be 
marked with the name of the purchaser and the price agreed upon, and 
then be sent to the Groyoshi, or government office, where the money is to be 
paid to Japanese officers, and the articles delivered by them. 

Article X. — The shooting of birds and animals is generally forbidden 
in Japan, and this law is therefore to be observed by all Americans. 

Article XI. — It is hereby agreed that five Japanese ri, or miles, be the 
limit allowed to Americans at Hakodadi, and the requirements contained 
in Article I. of these Regulations, are hereby made also applicable to that 
port within that distance. 

Article XII. — His Majesty the Emperor of Japan is at liberty to 
appoint whoever he pleases to receive the ratification of the treaty of Kan- 
agawa, and give an acknowledgment on his part. 

It is agreed that nothing herein contained shall in any way affect or 
modify the stipulations of the treaty of Kanagawa, should that be found to 
be contrary to these regulations. 

In witness whereof, copies of these additional regulations have been 
signed and sealed in the English and Japanese languages by the respective 
parties, and a certified translation in the Dutch language, and exchanged 
by the commissioners of the United States and Japan. 

SiMODA, Japan, June 17, 1854. 

M. C. PERRY, 
Commander-in-chief of the U. S. Naval Forces East India, 

China, and Japan Seas, and Special Envoy to Japan. 

These regulations were agreed to on the part of the commissioners only 
after a very hard struggle. The question of limits to the Americans, both 
at Simoda and Hakodadi, was the one most difficult of adjustment, in con- 
sequence, as it appeared, of the trouble in reconciling the imperial and local 
jurisdictions. The commissioners ul-ged that the authority of the Empire 
did not extend as far as the seven Japanese W, or sixteen English miles 
guaranteed to the Americans by the treaty of Kanagawa. The Japanese 
officers had pointed out three positions to the American officers, who had 
been designated by the Commodore to be present, as the sites for the gates 
and walls. Neither of these was distant more than a mile and a half from 



552 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

Centre Island, the starting point agreed upon from which to mark the 
boundary. The gates were finally erected at the spots indicated, when the 
commissioners formally proposed that the Commodore should now assent to 
a regulation making it necessary for Americans desiring to pass beyond them 
to obtain permission first from the Japanese officer on duty. But the Com- 
modore peremptorily refused, and was firm in resisting all efforts, great or 
small, to weaken, in the slightest degree, the concessions already made to 
the Americans by the treaty. He intimated, however, a willingness to assent 
to such regulations as were undoubtedly necessary to govern the Japanese 
authorities as well as the Americans ; but as for modifying or in any way 
altering the treaty, he wished them distinctly to understand that it was 
entirely impossible. In regard to the limits at Hakodadi, the commissioners 
at first wished to confine them to one street, then to the whole town, then to 
the projecting promontory extending toward the sea, next to three Jap- 
anese ri, and then to three and a half. Like a brave retreating army, they 
thus contested the ground, inch by inch. The Commodore proposed that 
the Americans should enjoy the same extent of boundary as had been grant- 
ed at Simoda ; but this was so pertinaciously opposed that it was thought 
expedient to compromise for five Japanese ri, or twelve English miles ; and 
as the country in the neighborhood of Hakodadi is mountainous and sparse- 
ly settled, this restriction will prove of no great consequence. Nothing, 
however, was more apparent than that the Japanese, admonished by their 
old Portuguese experience, were exceedingly reluctant to allow Christian 
foreigners to come among them at all, even for temporary purposes. 

The Japanese authorities had, in accordance with their agreement, sup- 
plied the steamers at Simoda with some of their native coal. It had been 
brought from some of their mines, at considerable trouble and expense, 
in hampers made of rice-straw. Notwithstanding the country is said to 
produce large quantities of this mineral, and the people are reported to 
have been long familiar with its uses, the coal they supplied appeared to 
be surface coal, and to have been obtained from mines which had not been 
opened thoroughly and worked. On being tried on board the steamers, the 
engineers reported that it was of a quality so inferior that they were unable 
to keep up steam with it. They have, however, very good coal, and the 
experiments practically made on specimens brought home by the squadron 
give the following results. A careful chemical analysis made at the navy 
yard laboratory, Brooklyn, will be found in the Appendix. 

" Navy Yard, New York, January 8, 1856. 
" Sir : In compliance with your order of November 5, to subject to 
suitable tests samples of Japan and Formosa coals, with a view to ascertain 
their respective qualities as fuel, we respectfully report, as follows, viz. : 



COMPARATIVE EVAPORATION OF COAL 



553 



*' As both the Japan and Formosa coals are of bituminous character, 
"we have used, as a standard of comparison, the best quality of Cumberland 
coal, and conducted the test upon a scale sufficiently large, that incidental 
causes, of a minor character, always attending experiments, would not be 
likely to materially affect the correctness of the results obtained. 

" The test was made in a boiler of the drop-flue form, having thirty- 
nine square feet of grate surface. The engine worked from this boiler has 
a cylinder of thirty-six inches diameter, with four feet length of stroke, and 
operates the machinery in the machine shop of this yard ; the work is so 
nearly equal, at each moment of time, that the resistance may be considered 
constant. 

" The experiments were conducted for consecutive days with the differ- 
ent kinds of coal, and the quantity consumed at the expiration of each 
day's work accurately noted, which was required to maintain as nearly an 
equal pressure of steam as possible. 

The following table embraces the results obtained of the comparative 
evaporative effect of the two coals, and also the comparative stowage : 

CUMBEELAND COAL. 



Date. 


Hour. 


Steam 
pressure. 


Remarks. 


Date. 


Hour. 


Steam 
pressure. 


Remarks. 


1855. 
Dec. 27 


8 a.m. 


14 




1S55. 
Dec.28 


8 A.M. 


15 






9 A. M. 


15 






9 A. M. 


16 






10 a.m. 


15 






10 A. M. 


15 






11 A. M. 


13 






11 A. M. 


14 






12 A. M. 
IP. M. 


14 
15 


Coal consumed, 1,900 lbs. 




12 A. M. 
1 P. M. 


15 
13 


Coal consumed, 1,950 lbs. 




2 P. M. 


13 






2 p. M. 


15 






3 P. M. 


14 






3 P. M. 


14 






4 p. M. 


14 






4 P.M. 


14 






4.30 P. M. 


15 






4.30 P. M. 


13 


40 cubic feet displaced 
for one ton of coal. 



FOEMOSA COAL. 



Date. 


Hour. 


Steam 
pressure. 


Remarks. 


Date. 


Hour. 


Steam 
pressure. 


Remarks. 


1855 
Dec. 29 


8 a.m. 


16 




1S55. 
Dec.31 


8 a.m. 


16 






9 a.m. 


14 






9 A. M. 


15 






10 A. M. 


13 






10 A. M. 


14 






11a.m. 


15 






11 A. M. 


14 






12 A. M. 
IP. M. 


13 
14 


Coal consumed, 2,957 lbs. 




12 A. M. 
IP. M. 


13 
15 


Coal consumed, 3,036 lbs. 




2 P. M. 


16 






2 P. M. 


14 






3 P.M. 


13 






3 P. M. 


14 






4 p.m. 


14 






4 p. M. 


13 






4.30 p. m. 


14 






4.30 p. M. 


14 


40 cubic feet displaced 
for one ton of coaL 



554 



EXPEDITION TO JAPAN 



JAPAN COAL. 



Date. 


Hour. 


Steam 
pressure. 


Remarks. 


Date. 


Hour. 


Steam 
preuure. 


Remark*. 


1856. 
Jan. 2 


8 a.m. 


14 




1856. 
Jan. 3 


8 A. M. 


12 






9 A. M. 


13 






9 a.m. 


13 






10 A. M. 


13 






10 A. M. 


14 






11 A. M. 


12 






11 A. M. 


13 






12 A. M. 
IP.M. 


14 
18 


Coal consumed, 3,700 lbs. 




12 a.m. 
1p.m. 


14 
15 


Coal consumed, 3,648 lbs. 




2 p. M. 


15 






2 p.m. 


14 






3 p.m. 


14 






3 p.m. 


14 






4 p.m. 


14 






4 p.m. 


15 






4.30 p. M. 


13 






4.30 p. m. 


14 


37 cubic feet displaced 
for one ton of coal. 



" The Formosa coal burns freely, leaving but a small amount of ashes 
and scoria. 

" The Japan coal produces considerable scoria and ashes. The sample 
of this coal was taken from the out-croppings of the yein, and will, un- 
doubtedly, yield a much superior quality at a greater depth. 
"JESSE GAY, Chief Engineer. 
"WILLIAM E. EVERETT, Chief Engineer. 
" Captain Abraham Bigelow, 

" C(ymmandant Navy Yard^ New York. " 

Whether the shrewd Japanese (as is not unlikely) supplied an inferior 
quality to deceive their visitors, or whether from ignorance of the article 
and want of mining skill they innocently brought that which was inferior, 
cannot be certainly decided ; but as good coal certainly exists in Japan, and 
as the natives not only use it, but, according to Yon Siebold, know very 
well how to mine it, the probabilities are that they purposely furnished the 
poorest samples. When the Preble was at Nagasaki, and they saw the 
armorer on board at work at his forge, they pretended that they did not 
know what coal was, and actually took a piece on shore as a curiosity, 
expressing, with well feigned astonishment, their surprise at seeing a 
"stone" that would burn. The coal that was obtained was charged at the 
enormous rate of about $28 per ton; but the Japanese stated that the price 
would be probably much reduced as the deuiand for it increased, and their 
facilities for obtaining it improved. We are inclined to think, after a care- 
ful examination of the particulars of all the interviews and conferences 
with them on all topics, that on no one subject did they misrepresent more 
unscrupulously than on that of coal. There is no doubt that they have an 
abundance, and some of it very good. 

As the negotiations with the commissioners had now terminated, the 
Commodore prepared for his final departure, and accordingly was desirous 



PROTEST OF THE COMMODORE 



5rDr^ 



of settling the accounts of the ships with the local authorities. Proper 
officers were accordingly sent on shore to receive from the governor a 
statement, with the prices of the various articles with which the squadron 
had been furnished.* 

Among other accounts was a bill for spars, whch had been ordered 
previous to leaving for Hakodadi ; but upon investigation it was found that, 
although charged, they had not yet been prepared or delivered, and that 
even the trees from which they were to be made had not yet been cut down. 
The bazaar had also been opened for several days, and was supplied with 
the various articles of Japanese manufacture which the Americans desired 
to purchase and take home as memorials of the expedition. The prices 
charged, however, were so exorbitant that the Commodore was obliged to 
protest against the conduct of the authorities in this respect, and to rebuke 
them for the neglect, not to call it by a harsher term, in not having the 
spars ready, although they had been charged for as if furnished. 

The protest and complaints of the Commodore having been laid before 
the governor. Prince Agawa, that functionary sent Moryama Yenoske, the 
interpreter, on board the flag-ship, with a respectful rejoinder, to the effect 
that the prices of articles offered for sale in the bazaar had been arranged 
at Yedo, and that they were not above the usual market valuation. It 
was then explained by the flag-lieutenant that, although the prices in Chi- 



* The cost of various supplies, wliich are those ordinarily required by foreign vessels, is 
here given, as it may be of interest and value to future navigators. 

Prices of supplies at Simoda. 

2 spars, 47 fans 3 inches long, di- 
ameter 8 inches - _ _ 

2 ditto, 52 fans 8 inches long, diam- 
eter 8 inches _ _ - _ 

2 ditto, 39 fans 6 inches long, di- 
ameter 6.4 inches - - - 

2 ditto, 55 fans long, diameter 8 in. 

1 ditto, 66 fans long, diameter 1 
fan 1.2 inches - - - - 

1 ditto, 44 fans long, diameter 7.2 
inches ---____ 

2 ditto, 49 fans long, diameter 8 in. 
2 ditto, 46 fans long, diameter 7.2 

inches ------ 

2 ditto 30 fans 8.5 in. long, diame- 
ter 7.2 in. ----- 

2 ditto, 49 fans 5 in. long, diameter 
1 fan 1.2 in. - _ - - 

2 ditto, 33 fans long, diameter 4.8 
inches ------ 

2 ditto, 55 fans long, diameter 1 fan 
2.8 inches ----- 







1,200 Cash=U' 


Wood - 


- 


- $6 75. 


Eggs - 


- 


- 7 for 10 cents. 


Chickens 


- 


- 39 cents each. 


Fish - 


- 


- from m to 29 cents each. 


Cray-fish 


- 


- 3^ cents each. 


Ditto - 


- 


- 11| cents per cattee. 


Cabbage 


- 


- 18 cents per sack. 


Radishes 


- 


- 12| cents per sack. 


Potatoes 


- 


- 38 cents per sack. 


Onions - 


- 


- 10 cents per sack. 


(The 


sack holds a little more than an 


EngUsh bushel.) 



Six fans =5 English feet. 

1 spar, 82 fans long, diameter 1 fan 

3.6 inches ----- $108 80 

2 spars, 50 fans 6 inches long, di- 

ameter 8 inches - - - 27 00 
2 ditto, 73 fans 7 in. long, diameter 

1 fan 2.8 in. - - - - 176 10 



^25 50 


27 00 


10 40 


30 00 


54 40 


7 80 


25 50 


19 50 


13 00 


95 20 


7149 


163 20 



55b EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

nese ^^cash^'' might not appear exorbitant to the Japanese, yet that they 
were really so to the Americans, who were obliged to pay in dollars at a 
depreciation much below their value. Moryama Yenoske explained the 
affair of the spars, by declaring that he was responsible for what he was 
pleased to term the error, as he supposed that all the Commodore had asked 
for was the cost of spars, and did not understand that an order had been 
given for a supply of them. Subsequently, the Commodore and some of 
his officers went on shore and partook of a handsome collation, at the earnest 
solicitation of the commissioners, who, on the occasion, made an ample 
apology for the various errors and misunderstandings which had interrupted 
the friendly intercourse between the Americans and the authorities. The 
Commodore explained that it was a principle he had been contending for, 
and not the comparatively unimportant consideration of a few hundred 
dollars, more or less, as his government had placed ample means in his 
hands, and he was disposed to pay liberally for all he had; but neither the 
United States nor he were at all willing to be imposed upon. Moryama 
Yenoske, who was always the most active of all the officials, and was now 
the chief spokesman, said that the Americans might purchase any articles 
they pleased at their own valuation. This offer was of course rejected : 
and Yenoske then assumed, in behalf of himself and his fellow-interpreter 
Tatsnoske, the whole blame, not only in regard to the spars, but the exor- 
bitant prices and all the other wrongs which had given rise to complaint. 
Indeed, these two worthy gentlemen seemed to be convenient mediums 
through which their superiors might render a vicarious expiation for their 
offences. They were ever ready to shoulder all the responsibility for any- 
thing wrong. Yenoske, however, was very civilly told that although the 
Commodore could appreciate the self-sacrificing devotion with which he 
shouldered all the blame, yet that it was not a victim that was sought, but 
merely a correction of certain evil practices which, if not checked in the 
beginning, might lead to disaffection and serious quarrel. A perfect 
reconciliation then ensued, which was appropriately sealed by a present 
from the commissioners of a block of stone for the Washington monument, 
which was to be carried to the United States as a tribute from Japan to the 
memory of the great father of our republic. Nothing afterwards occurred 
to interrupt friendly relations, and frequent intercourse, which grew more 
and more intimate as the day of departure approached, took place with all 
classes on shore. Handsome presents were exchanged, and some choice 
articles of Japanese manufacture were received from the authorities as gifts 
for the President and for the officers of the ships. Among the gifts were 
three Japanese dogs, sent to the President. These were of the small span- 
iel breed, already alluded to, very highly esteemed in Japan, and purchas- 
able only at a very large price. The Commodore succeeded in bringing 
them to the United States, and they now thrive at Washington. The 



THE JAPANESE "SAM PATCH." 557 

Commodore obtained two for himself, one only of wliicli reached the United 
States. 

A few days previous to the departure of the Commodore, Moryama 
Yenoske, in company with several other officials, came on board the 
Powhatan to request that the Japanese " Sam Patch," of whom we have 
spoken, should be allowed to remain in Japan. They were told that the 
Commodore had no objection whatever to the man's remaining, if he 
wished ; but that it must be by his own free will, and that the commission- 
ers must give a written pledge that the man should not, in any way, be pun- 
ished for his absence from Japan. Moreover, as he had suffered shipwreck, 
and had been thrown, by God's providence, on American protection, and 
had entered on board an American ship by his own choice, he was entitled 
to all the protection and security of an American citizen ; consequently the 
Commodore could allow of no coercion being resorted to to make the man 
remain in Japan. The Japanese officials ridiculed the idea of his suffering 
any harm or hurt by his remaining in Japan, and said that the commis- 
sioners would cheerfully give any guarantee required that he should in no 
way be molested, but be allowed at once to return to his friends, who were 
very anxious to see him. Sam was now called up, but all the eloquence and 
persuasiveness of the Japanese were insufficient to induce him to leave the 
ship. The truth is that Sam never, during the whole stay of the squadron 
in Japan, appeared fully to understand the independence and safety of his 
position. Long habit had so impressed upon him the cowardice of trembling 
servility before his superiors in Japan, that it was very obvious the inter- 
view with the officials produced no emotion but abject fear. He fell on his 
knees before them after the manner of his country, and would have remained 
in that position if Lieutenant Bent, who was determined that no such 
obsequiousness should be shown on the deck of an American man-of-war, and 
under the flag of the United States, to any thing wearing the human form? 
had not peremptorily ordered him immediately to rise to his feet. 

Sam had taken his place as one of the crew, and had won the good will 
of his shipmates generally by his good nature. All pitied his misfortunes, 
and one of the marines named Groble, a religious man, had taken a special 
interest in him; finding in his docility and intelligence promise of good 
fruit from a properly directed religious training, Groble had begun with him 
a system of instruction which he hoped would not only make the Japanese 
a fair English scholar, but a faithful Christian. Sam came to the United 
States in the Mississippi, and accompanied his benevolent shipmate and 
devoted teacher to his home in the interior of New York, where Goble has 
property. At the last accounts they were living there together, and it is 
not unreasonable to hope that Sam, with the education of his faithful 
American friend, may be an instrument, in the event of his return to 
Japan, under a further development of our relations with that Empire, of 



558 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

aiding in the introduction of a higlier and better civilization into his own 
country. All honor be to the American Christian marine for his benevo- 
lence ! 

It will be recollected that, of the several Japanese who had been picked 
up on the coast of California and taken to Shanghai, with a view of restor- 
ing them to their own country, Sam Patch was the only one who accompa- 
nied the expedition to Japan. The rest were all afraid, and Sam went with 
fear and trembling. On the return of the Mississippi to China, on her way 
home, another of the Japanese expressed a wish to visit the United States, 
and was gratified in his desire ; this was the young man whom we have 
mentioned on a former page. His Japanese name is something like Dans- 
Kevitch,' but the sailors, with their usual fondness for christening those 
adopted into their roving family, soon called him Dan-Ketch. It was fortu- 
nate for the poor fellow that he escaped the more usual nautical cognomen of 
Jack ; for that, however respectable in itself, would have made a much less 
reputable combination in union with the Americo- Japanese Ketch ; and 
poor Dan might have found himself undesirably elevated to the office of a 
hangman, without precisely understanding the process which conferred the 
unenviable rank. Dan is under the protection of the Commodore, and evinces 
great intelligence, with an eager desire for knowledge. Should he ever 
return to Japan, as at present he purposes, after learning more about us, he 
will doubtless carry home with him no small amount of information about 
our country. 

The Commodore now transferred his broad pennant from the Powhatan 
back to the Mississippi, and the two steamers got under way and moved 
down to the outer roads of Simoda, where they anchored preparatory to 
their final departure. Moryama Yenoske, in company with some of the 
other officials, paid a farewell visit to the Commodore on that day, bringing 
with him the closing accounts of the ships, and some specimens of natural 
history as presents. A handsome entertainment was spread before the 
visitors in the cabin, and in the course of the friendly conversation around 
the table, a Japanese picture, representing the punishment of crucifixion, 
was shown to Yenoske. This had been purchased at Simoda, by some of 
our officers, and its presence turned the conversation on the subject of 
capital punishments in Japan. The Commodore was glad of the opportu- 
nity to procure accurate information on this point, inasmuch as some writers, 
later than Kgempfer, have denied his statement that crucifixion is a Japa- 
nese mode of execution. Yenoske said that the picture itself was illustra- 
tive merely of a scene in one of their popular farces ; but, he added, that 
regicides were executed somewhat in the manner represented in the picture, 
being first nailed to a cross and then transfixed with a spear. In the picture 
the man was merely tied to the cross. Decapitation, however, he said, was 
the usual mode of capital punishment for murderers, but never strangulation 



559 

or hanging. Upon Yenoske being asked if the practice of the Hari-kari or 
'' Happy dispatch " still prevailed, he replied that one of his fellow inter- 
preters had committed suicide in that way, in his presence, while at Naga- 
saki. The Commodore then inquired if it were true that the governor of 
Nagasaki had destroyed himself, after the visit of Captain Pellew in 1808 ; 
and Yenoske declared that not only the governor had done so, but that two 
other high officers and ten subordinates had followed his example. The 
Japanese, after a prolonged conviviality, took their farewell of the Ameri- 
cans, with many expressions of warm attachment to their visitors, and pulled 
off for the land. 

The ships were now all in readiness for departure. The Southampton, 
which had arrived from Volcano Bay on the tenth of June, and had dis- 
charged her cargo of coal into the steamers, the Macedonian, which reached 
Simoda on the eleventh, and the store-ship Supply that had been stationary 
in that port for several months, with the Mississippi, now the flag-ship, and 
the Powhatan, composed the whole squadron, and were anchored in the 
outer bay, preparatory to sailing for their respective destinations. Arrange- 
ments had been made to carry out the regulations agreed to with the 
authorities in regard to the appointment of a harbor-master and three 
pilots, and these now, at the last moment, were completed by the signature 
of Kura-kawa-kahei, the deputy-governor, to a written contract,* copies of 
which were made in English and Dutch, and deposited with the Japanese 
officials at Simoda. The harbor-master and the pilots, after having been 
selected by the local authorities, were brought to the Commodore for his 
confirmation of their appointment. The Commodore, having signified his 



* JiegiUations respecting pilots, and the supplying of American vessels entering the port of 

Simoda. 

A look-out place shall be established at some convenient point, from which vessels ap- 
pearing in the offing can be seen and reported, and when one is discovered making ap- 
parently for the harbor, a boat shall be sent to her with a pilot. 

And in order to carry this regulation into full effect, boats of suitable size and quality 
shall always be kept in readiness by the harbor-master, which, if necessary, shall proceed 
beyond Rock island, to ascertain whether the vessel in sight intends entering the harbor or 
not. If it may be the desire of the master of said vessel to enter port, the pilot shall con- 
duct her to safe anchorage, and during her stay shall render every assistance in his power 
in facilitating the procurement of all the supplies she may require. 

The rates of pilotage shall be : for vessels drawing over 18 American feet, fifteen dol- 
lars ; for all vessels drawing over 13 and less than 18 feet, ten dollars ; and for all vessels 
under 13 feet, five dollars. 

These rates shall be paid in gold or silver coin, or its equivalent in goods, and the same 
shall be paid for piloting a vessel out as weU as into port. 

When vessels anchor in the outer harbor, and do not enter the inner port, only half the 
above rates of compensation shall be paid to the pilot. 

The prices for supplying water to American vessels at Simoda shall be fourteen hun- 



560 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

approval of the choice, gave to the harbor-master a spy-glass, to be kept 
always at the look-out place and to pass to his successor in office ; to each 
of the pilots a comfortable overcoat and two American ensigns, to be dis- 
played on board the pilot-boats when going to any vessels that may appear 
oflF the harbor. The surveyors had marked the rocks, buoys, and prOiiiinent 
headlands with signal flags, but as the Japanese authorities objected to 
them as seeming to imply some evidence of right to possession, it was rea- 
dily conceded that the Japanese should substitute for them their little white 
and black striped flags. 

On the morning of the 28th of June, 1854, the whole squadron got un- 
der way ; but the wind shifting to the southward, the Macedonian and Sup- 
ply were obliged to anchor again. The Commodore, accordingly, ordered 
these vessels to warp into a safe berth, and sail when the wind and weather 
should permit, and to keep company, if possible, to Kelung, in Formosa, 

dred cash per toat-load, (the casks being furnished by the vessel.) And for wood delivered 
on board, about seven thousand two hundred cash per cube of five American feet. 

SILAS BENT, Flag Lieutenant. 
KURA-KAWA-KAHEI, Lieutenant Governor. 
United States Steam-Frigate Mississippi, at Sea, June 28, 1854. 

Approved : M. C. PERRY, 

Commander-in-Chief United States Naval Forces East India, China and Japan Seas. 
United States Steam -Frigate Mississippi, Simoda, Japan, June 23, 1854. 

Bepalingen met hetrelcking tot loodsen, en het leveren van bevodigdheden aan Amerikaansche 
schepen in den haven van Simoda. 

Op eene daartoe geschikte plaats zal een uitkyk worden opgerigt van waar schepen in 
de nabyheid komende kunnen worden gezien, alsdan zal de overheid daarvan verwittigd, en 
een boot met een loods aan boord naar het schip afgezonden worden als hetzelve naar deze 
haven schynt te komen. 

Ten einde deze bepaling ten voile uit te voeren zuUeu booten van gcncegzame grootte 
altyd door den havenmeester in gereedheid worden gehouden, welke booten als zulks nodig 
mogt zyn zoover als Rots eiland (Mikomoto Sima) zullen gaan om te onderzoeken of het 
schip in gezigt al of niet in den haven zal komen. Als nu de schipper van zulk een schip 
den haven will binnen loopen, zal de loods hetzelve naar een veilige ankerplaats brengen, en 
gedurende deszelfs verblyf aldaar al het mogelyke aanwenden, om het verkrygen van wat 
hetzelve nodig mogt hebben, gemakkelyk te maken. 

Het loon van den loods zal zyn voor schepen meer den achttien Amerikaansche voeten 
diep in het water, vyftien dollars ; voor schepen meer dan dertien en minder dan achttien 
voeten diep in het water, tien dollars ; en vyf dollars voor schepen minder dan dertien 
Amerikaansche voeten diep in het water. 

Dit loon zal betaald worden in gouden of zilveren munt, of met eene gelyke waarde in 
goederen en evenveel zal betaald worden voor het tiitloodsen, als voor het naar binnen 
loodsen. 

Als schepen niet in den binnen haven komen, doch in den buiten haven ten anker gaan , 
zal alleen de helft van de hierboven vastgestelde loonen worden betaald. 

Amerikaansche schepen in den haven van Simoda, zullen kunnen verkrygen water aan 
boord tegen veertien honderd pitjes (cash) voor een volgeladen boot, (de watervaten door 



SAFETY OF THE HARBOR OF SIMODA. 561 

where they were bound. There seemed no occasion to wait for them, as 
their destination was different, and any further delay on the part of the 
steamers would only result in an unnecessary consumption of coal ; so the 
Mississippi and the Powhatan, with the Southampton in tow, stood out to 
sea and shaped a course to the southward and westward. 

In passing out beyond Rock Island a high sea was encountered, which 
gave additional proof that the outer as well as the inner harbor of Simodais 
perfectly safe. The violence of the sea being in a considerable degree 
broken by the ledge of rocks extending, though not continuously, from Rock 
Island to Cape Idzu — but these channels were not thoroughly explored by 
the officers of the expedition — " I should not like," says the Commodore, " to 

het schip geleend wordeade) en brandhout aan boord geleverd voor ongeveer zeven duizend 
twee honderd pitjes per kubiek iki, of kubiek van vyf Amerikaansche voeten. 

SILAS BENT, Luitenant Adjudant. 
KURAKAWA KAHEI, Luitenant Gouverneur. 
Goedgekeurd : M. C. PERRY, 

Opperhevelhehher van de Oorlogmnagt van de Vereenig de Staten 

in de zeeen van Oost Indie, China, en Japan. 
Eene ware vertaUng, A. L. C. PORTMA.N. 

V. S. Stoom-Fregat I\Iississippi, Simoda, Japan, den 23sten Juny, 185i. 



United States Steam-Frigate Mississippi, at Sea, June 27, ISoi. 
This is to certify that Yohatsi, Hikoyemon, and Dshirobe have been appointed pilots for 
American vessels entering or departing from the port of Simoda, and that the following 
rates for pilotage have been established by the proper authorities, viz : 

For vessels drawing over eighteen American feet, $15 00 

For vessels drawing over thirteen and less than eighteen feet 10 00 

For vessels drawing under thirteen feet 5 00 

These rates shall be paid in gold or silver coin, or its equivalent in goods ; and the same 
shall be paid for piloting vessels out as well as into port. 

"NYlien vessels anchor in the outer roads, and do not enter the inner harbor, only half the 
above rates of compensation shall be paid to the pilots. 
By order of the Commander-in-Chief: 

SILAS BENT, Flag Lieutenant. 
Approved : M. C. PERRY, 

Commander-in-chief of the United States Naval Forces in the 

Fast India, China, and Japan Seas. 
United States Stea:m-Frigate Mississippi, > 

Simoda, Island of Nipjhon, Japan, June 22, 1851 > 

Dit dient om te verklaren, dat Yohatsi, Hikoyemon, en Dshirobe benoemd zyn als lood- 
sen voor schepenvan de Vereenigde Staten de haven van Simoda binnenkomende, of uit- 
gaande ; en dat het loon voor de loodsen door de bevoegde overheid is vasgesteld geworden 
als volgt: 

Voor schepen over 18 Amerikaansche voeten diep in het water $15 00 

Voor schepen over 13 en minder dan 18 voeten diep 10 00 

Ycor schepen onder 13 Am : voeten diep 5 00 

36 



562 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

venture througli either of them, and would not recommend others to do so. 
It is more prudent to go outside of Rock Island, by which ships will not be 
so much endangered by the influence of the rapid current seemingly setting 
at all times to the eastward." 

After leaving Simoda, the Commodore directed the steamers to be steered 
to the southward, in order to obtain another observation of the Redfield 
rocks, discovered on the passage during the previous month of February. 
On coming up with them it was found that their positions had been very 
correctly established by former notes, but care was taken to verify these by 
fresh observations. From the Redfield rocks a course was made for the 
northeast end of Oho-sima, the island claimed to have been discovered by 
Commander Griynn. On the previous passage to Japan, the western shore 
of Oho-sima and the adjacent islands had been carefully observed. It was 
now determined to examine very closely the eastern coast, and, consequently, 
in the morning of the 29th of June, the northern point of Oho-sima was 
made with this view. It was found that this part of the island bore N. 82° 
W., and that the bearings, therefore, on the chart, were erroneous. The 
steamers continuing their course, passed between Oho-sima and Kikai-sima, 
or Bungalow Island, and traversed the eastern coast of the former so closely, 
that all its sinuosities, bays, inlets, could be marked with much accuracy. 
Having at meridian obtained excellent observations of latitude and longitude, 
as the result of the notes of the three ships, it was practicable to determine 
the positions of the most prominent headlands by a series of angles deduced 
from these observations. 

Before the visit of the United States squadron to these seas, a French 
chart, constructed by Monsieur N. Guerin, capitaine de vaisseau, and pub- 
lished in Paris in 1848, was the most approved guide. This chart has been 
improved by the observations and notes of the officers of the expedition, 
and, although there are doubtless many hidden dangers yet to be discovered 
and accurately reported, it can be said, with honest pride, that the Ameri- 
cans have contributed very much towards the hydrographical information 
of that part of the world, and especially of the gulf and bay of Yedo, waters 
hitherto almost unknown to foreign navigators. 

Dit loen zal betaald worden in gouden of zilveren munt of met eene gelyke waarde 
in goederen ; en hetzelfde zal betaald worden voor het binnen komen als wel als voor bet 
uitgaan. 

Als schepen in den bnitenhaven ankeren er niet naar binnen gaan, zal alleen de lielft 
van de hierboven vastgestelde loonen worden betaald. 
Op last van den Opperbevelhebber : 

SILAS BENS, Luitenant Adjndant. 
M. C. PERRY, 
Opperbevelhebber van de Oorlogstnagt van de Vereenig de Staten in 

de zeccn van Oost Indie, China, en Japan. 
Eeno ware vertaling, A. L. C. PORTMAN. 

V. S. Stoom-Fkkcjat Mississippi, Simoda. Japan den 22sten Juni/, 1854. 



BOARD AN ENGLISH SHIP. 563 

After the meridian observations had been calculated, Commodore Perry 
dispatched two of the boats of the Mississippi, in charge of Lieutenants 
Maury and Webb, to visit a little bay of the island of Oho-sima, about two 
miles distant abreast the ships. These officers landed, and found only a 
small hamlet, and a squad of miserably clad natives drawn up on shore to 
meet them, armed with clubs, stones, and one old firelock. The inhabitants, 
however, notwithstanding their warlike aspect, were very civil, and gave, in 
exchange for bread and pork, some fowls and vegetables. A few botanical 
specimens were also obtained, but there was no time, or, what is even more 
important, no coal to spare for any lengthened exploration. This was pro- 
bably the first time a Christian had ever landed upon Oho-sima. These islands, 
however, deserve a more complete examination, and it is hoped that our gov- 
erment will, ere long, send suitable vessels for such a purpose. One small 
steamer and a schooner of about a hundred and twenty tons, with a store-ship 
for carrying coals and provisions, would be adequate for the work. 

Keeping as near as safety would permit to the chain of islands lying be- 
tween Oho-sima and Lew Chew, the steamers were steered southward and 
westward during the night, and at daylight made the northern end of Great 
Lew Chew and the other islands in the neighborhood. On rounding the 
former a ship was discovered, about five miles distant, steering north with a 
fair wind. As soon, however, as she saw the steamers approaching, she 
tacked and stood to the southward and westward. The Commodore ordered 
two blank cartridges to be fired as a signal for the ship to heave to. At first 
she did not seem inclined to do so, but finding that the squadron was closing 
in upon her very fast, she tacked again, and, running down towards the 
steamers, she finally hove to. The flag-lieutenant then boarded in a boat 
from the Mississippi, and learned that the vessel was an English ship from 
Shanghai bound to England. The captain explained the cause of his suspi- 
cious movements by saying that, having heard of the war with Russia, he 
had supposed at first that the American ships were the Russian squadron, 
and was greatly alarmed until he succeeded in making out distinctly the 
United States colors. He showed his friendly disposition by sending to the 
Commodore an English paper. AVithin ten miles of Napha, and as night 
approached, it became so dark that it was deemed imprudent to enter the 
harbor, and the vessels were accordingly kept merely under steerage-way 
until daylight, when the Powhatan cast ofi" the Southampton, which had 
orders to proceed direct to Hong Kong. Both steamers then entered the 
port of Napha, and came to anchor on the 1st of July, 1854. 



CHAPTEK XXV 



Preparations for final departure from the Japanese waters.— Macedonian and Supply ordered to Formosa. 
— Instructions to Captain Abbot, of the Macedonian, to toucli at the Philippines on his way from For- 
mosa to China. — Mississippi, Powhatan, and Southampton proceed lo Lew (]hew. — State of affairs in 
Lew Chew. — Supposed murder of an American by Lew Chewans — Trial of Lew Chewans for murder 
by their own authorities on the Commodore's demand. — Description of a Lew Chew court of justice. — 
Accused made to plead by punches in the ribs. — Accused convicted and brought to the Commodore for 
punishment. — He hands them over to their own authorities. — They are banished. — New Tears cus- 
toms. — Coal removed from the depot to the ships. — Compact or ti-eaty made vrith Lew Chew. — Present 
from the Lew Chewans to the Commodt)re. — A stone for the Washington monument. — Efibrt of a 
Japanese to come off in the squadron to the United Slates. — Parting entertainment to Lew Chew au- 
thorities. — Departure i f the squadron for Cliina. — Macedonian's visit to Formosa. — Unavailing Search 
for Americans supposed to have been wrecked on the island. — Explorations by Chaplain Jones for coal. 
— Found in abundance and of good quality. — Survey of the harbor of Kelung. — Lying and cunning of 
the Furmosaus. — Kun to Manilla. — Very stormy passage. — Marine volcanoes in the neighborhood of 
Formosa — Inquiries at Manilla into the murder of certain Americans. — Satisfactory conduct of the 
Spanish authorities in the matter. — Delivery by Captain Abbot to the Governor of six Sillibaboes that 
had been picked up at sea by Lieutenant Commanding Boyle, of the Southampton, floating in an open 
boat. — Eemarkable distance that they had drifted. — Physical appearance of the Sillibaboes. — Voyage 
of Macedonian to Hong Kong.— Captain Kelly's handling of the Chinese pirates and imperial troops? 
forces them to make reparation. — Chastisement of the Chinese by the joint action of the officers and 
men of the Plymouth and of Her Britannic Majesty's ships Encounter and Grecian.— The Commo 
dore, by leave from the navy department, turns over the command to Captain Abbot, and returns 
home by the overland route. — On the arrival of the Mississippi in New York, on the 23d of April, the 
Commodore repairs on board, aud formally hauling down his Hag, terminates the expedition. 




sloop-of-war, instead of 



HE story we are telling will perhaps 
be better understood if, before pro- 
ceeding further, we recapitulate as 
^ to the disposition that had been 
j made of the several ships of the 
squadron. The Saratoga sloop-of- 
war was on her way home, as we 
have stated, with the copy of the 
treaty in the custody of Captain 
Adams, who had been dispatched on 
the 4th of April, as a special mes- 
senger by the Commodore, to deliver 
the important document into the 
hands of the proper authorities. The 
steamer Susquehanna had been sent 
on the 24th of March, just one week 
before signing the treaty, and at the 
first moment at which she could be 
spared, to place herself at the dis- 
posal of the Hon. Mr. McLean, our 
minister to China. The Vandalia 
returning with the other ships from Hakodadi to 



AFFAIRS IN LEW CHEW. 565 

ffimoda, had been ordered to make her way from the former port to China, 
by passing through the Straits of Sangar, and down on the western side of 
Japan to Shanghai. The store-ship Southampton having surveyed Volcano 
bay, and Endermo bay within it, just on the northern or Yesso side of the 
eastern entrance of the Straits of Sangar, had rejoined the Squadron, and 
was now ordered to China. The Plymouth, it will be remembered, had 
been left at Shanghai to protect American interests there, and was not with 
the squadron on the second visit to the Bay of Yedo ; while the store-ship 
Lexington was sent back from Simoda to Lew Chew, during the previous 
month of May. There were, therefore, collected at Simoda, after the visit 
to Hakodadi, but five ships of the squadron, viz : the steamers Mississippi 
and Powhatan, the Macedonian sloop-of-war, the Southampton, which hav- 
ing finished the survey of Volcano bay,, there rejoined the squadron, and the 
store-ship Supply, the last named having remained at Simoda during the ab- 
sence of the others. 

As the discovery of coal was an important object, and as, beside, there 
were various causes making a visit to Formosa necessary, the Commodore, 
as has been said, ordered the Macedonian and Supply to that island, with 
instructions to Captain Abbot, in command of the former vessel,, to stop at 
the Philippines on his way back,, to join the squadron in China. As to the 
steamers, he proceeded with them and the Southampton direct to Lew Chew. 
This was the fifth and last visit to Napha ; we shall first speak of that, 
reserving for a future page the results of the voyage of the Macedonian 
to Formosa. 

When the squadron left Lew Chew on its last visit, two master's mates 
named Randall and Bierbower, had boen left in charge of the coal depot 
established at Tumai,. and now, on the Commodore's return, he found that 
matters during his absence had not proceeded quite as amicably as he could 
have wished. Randall had his little complaints to make, and had preferred 
them to his superior. Lieutenant Commanding Grlasson, when he arrived in 
the Lexington in May, and this latter officer now reported them to the Com- 
modore. They amounted to but small grievances, however ; one consisted 
of a complaint that some of the children in Lew Chew had thrown stones, 
which fell near some of the American seamen who were walking on shore; 
another was, that a Lew Chew butcher had quarelled with one of the seamen 
while engaged in traffic with him, and beaten him with a club. Lieutenant 
Glasson had called on the mayor of Napha to ask an explanation. As to the 
first, the mayor stated that it was an accident, occurring while the children 
were engaged in sport, and was not an intentional act of aggression toward 
the seamen. As to the case of the butcher, the mayor stated that one of the 
sailors attempted in the market to take from the butcher certain of his meats 
without paying for them. The butcher naturally endeavored to secure his 
property, when the sailor struck at him with his knife ; a scuffle ensued, in 



566 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

which the sailor was beaten with a club. Lieutenant Glasson told the 
mayor that the butcher, instead of resorting to force, should have reported 
the sailor ; and that he (the mayor) well knew the Commodore, on such a 
state of things, would have caused the man to be punished, and would have 
amply reimbursed the butcher for his loss ; but that the latter should not 
have violated the law of Lew Chew and resorted to such desperate remedies. 
To this the mayor readily assented. These, however, were minor matters, 
and the probability is that the general feeling on board the ships was that 
the sailor got no more than his deserts, as the matter seems to have gone 
no further. 

But there was a far more serious incident to be reported by Lieutenant 
Glasson ; this was no less than the supposed murder of one of his crew by 
the Lew Chewans. It seems, that on the 12th of June, a man named Board 
was found dead in Napha, under circumstances which justified a strong 
suspicion that he came to his end by violence. The Commodore had not 
yet reached the island, and Lieutenant Glasson appointed five officers of the 
ship to investigate the circumstances and report thereon to him. These 
gentlemen, after making a post-mortem examination and hearing witnesses, 
reported as their opinion that the man came to his death from blows inflicted 
on his head by some person or persons unknown to them, and by subsequent 
immersion in the water for a considerable time while insensible from the 
blows he had received. They further added, that the testimony of the Lew 
Chew witnesses was very equivocal and unsatisfactory. Soon after this the 
Commodore arrived, when Lieutenant Glasson immediately reported to him 
all the facts and documents in his possession connected with the case ; and, 
among the rest, that he had demanded a full and fair investigation by 
the local authorities of Lew Chew, to which demand he had received no 
satisfactory answer. 

The Commodore, upon inquiry, soon became convinced that the man's 
death, though unlawfully produced, was probably the result of his own most 
gross outrage on a female, and, in such case, not undeserved ; still he felt 
that, for the security of others, both Europeans and Americans, who might 
subsequently visit the island, it was important to impress upon the authori- 
ties the necessity for the full investigation and proper punishment by the 
local authorities, of acts of violence committed upon strangers who might 
visit them. He therefore made a peremptory demand upon the regent or 
superintendent of aff"airs to cause a judicial trial to be instituted, conforma- 
bly to the laws of Lew Chew. 

This demand was at once complied with, the court consisting of six 
superior judges, and the regent and first treasurer giving their constant per- 
sonal attendance during the entire proceedings. 

The facts, as well as they could be ascertained, appeared to be these. 
On the 12th of June three American sailors, one of whom was named 



HOMICIDE AT LEW CHEW. 567 

Board, passing through the streets of Napha, forcibly entered the house of 
one of the inhabitants, and taking therefrom som.e saki soon became intoxi- 
cated. Two of them found a sleeping place in the gutter, but Board, clam- 
bering over a wall, entered a private house, where he found a woman, named 
Mitu, and her niece, a young girl. He brandished his knife, threatened the 
woman, and attempted the foulest outrage ; she cried out until she fainted 
and became insensible. Her cries brought some Lew Chew men to the spot, 
and the circumstances clearly showed the purpose of Board. Some of the 
Lew Chewans seized him and threw him to the ground. More than half 
drunk, he rose and fled towards the shore, seeking to escape. Many persons 
had by this time assembled, and pursued Board, throwing stones at him, 
some of which struck him, and, according to the statements of the native wit- 
nesses, in his drunkenness he fell into the water and was drowned. Whether 
this latter particular was precisely in accordance with the fact was some- 
what doubtful. 

At any rate, the Lew Chew authorities, declaring that it was " altogether 
illegal to throw stones and wound persons, causing them thereby to fall into 
the water and be drowned," convicted six persons, one as principal and the 
others as accessories. After the conviction the regent and first treasurer 
appeared on board the Mississippi with the ringleader bound, and desired to 
deliver him to the Commodore to be dealt with according to the laws of the 
United States. The Commodore, of course, declined to receive him, and 
explained to the Lew Chewans that it was not his wish or purpose to inter- 
fere in any mode with the administration or execution of the Lew Chew laws ; 
that he only wished them to enforce them on proper occasions, when wrong 
or injury was done to any foreigners who might chance to visit the island. 
He accordingly remanded the prisoner to the regent, who expressed many 
thanks to the Commodore for the act. The end of the matter was, that the 
accessories were banished to a neighboring island for a time, and the prin- 
cipal was banished for life. It seems doubtful, however, whether these sen- 
tences were rigorously executed, although the authorities solemnly promised 
the Commodore that they shoald be. 

The Commodore, however, ordered the trial by a court martial of the 
two surviving An.ericans who commenced the disturbance, and they were 
dealt with according to their deserts. The whole affair was a subject of 
deep regret to the Commodore, and was the only instance of any seriously 
unpleasant occurrence during the whole intercourse of the Americans with 
the Lew Chewans, in their five visits to the island. 

It in ay not be uninteresting to lay before the reader the forms of a Lew 
Chew judicial proceeding, as the customs of a country, in so grave a matter, 
are necessarily illustrative of the national character. The flag-lieutenant 
Mr. Bent, and Mr. Williams, the interpreter, had been selected by the Com- 
modore to attend the trial, in accordance with the request of the Lew Chew 



568 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

authorities that some of our officers should be present. These gentlemen, on 
reaching the hall, were furnished with seats at the head of the room, imme- 
diately opposite to the regent and treasurer ; on their left sat three of the 
judges on mats ; and opposite to them, on a line with the regent and trea- 
surer, were the three other judges similarly seated. The prisoner on trial 
knelt on the ground outside the hall (which was open on that side), with 
his head just above the flooring of the balcony, and facing the interior of the 
hall. Questions were put to him by the judges, and if he proved intractable 
or stubborn in responding, his elbows were tied together behind his back 
and, on the slightest hesitation, a policeman on either side of him punched 
him severely in the ribs with large sticks, about two inches in diameter and 
four feet in length. These never failed to loosen the fellow's tongue, but 
whether to utter truth or falsehood was, to our gentlemen, very questionable. 
This, if not equal in severity to the old "peine forte et dure'''' of our anees" 
tors, proceeds on the same principle. 

On each successive visit to the island, the gentlemen of the expedition 
gathered additional scraps of information as to customs, one of which is so 
similar, in the feeling which prompts it, to our own New Year's congratula- 
tions, that it is worthy of a passing notice. In the spring, when the new 
year opens in Lew Chew, and perhaps in Japan also (though of the latter we 
cannot speak certainly), the usage of the islanders is to offer the expression 
of their good wishes and friendly feelings, in the form of inscriptions at- 
tached to the houses of each other, or sent to the inmates. Mr. Williams 
translated several of these, a few of which we subjoin as specimens : 

" Gay clouds meet the rising^ glorious sun; ten thousand joys greet 
the opening spring y 

" Let all sing these days of general peace^ and rejoice together in the 
opening spring y 

" May all joys clamber about your happy abode ; may a thousand 
lucks collect at this gate^ 

" May every door have luck and joy, and every land he blessed with 



^^ 3£ay your felicity be as broad as the eastern sea your age enduring 
as the southern hills.'''' 

" The peach tree in fairy land ripens in thirty centuries; may the sea- 
side house be blessed with ninety more autumns^ 

" We joyfully hope the brightening year ivill meet a flourishing time 
as the bloom of spring begins to shine upon this humble door^ 

" May the three stars, peace, office, age, enter your door ; and sons, 
riches, honors, bless your gate^ 

"Happiness descends from heaven^ 

" As the wind and light go their circuits through the world, so does the 
gladsome spiking from heaven to us come down^ 



NEGOTIATION IN LEW CHEW. 569 

While the judicial proceedings in the case of Broad's death were in pro- 
gress, the Commodore, who was anxious to lose no time, employed, with the 
aid and approval of the Lew Chew authorities, native lighters to transport 
to the steamers all the coal remaining in the coal-shed at Tumai; and 
causing the building itself to be put in order, left it in charge of the native 
authorities, with an assurance that they would look carefully to its preserva- 
tion for future use, and the reception of any deposit of coal the United States 
might wish to make there in time to come. 

There remained, however, one important piece of business yet to be done. 
This was the making of a compact or treaty between our government and 
that of Lew Chew. Accordingly, the flag-lieutenant, Mr. Bent, and the 
interpreter, Mr. Williams, were deputed by the Commodore, under suitable 
instructions as to terms, to confer with the regent of Lew Chew ; and these 
gentlemen, on the 8th of July, met that official on shore by appointment, 
and discussed with him the proposed compact, a rough draft of which they 
presented. The preamble to this recognized Lew Chew as an independent 
nation. To this recognition the regent objected, saying that such an as- 
sumption on their parts would get them into trouble with China, to which 
country they owed allegiance ; that, as to the articles of the compact, they 
would cheerfully assent to them, and faithfully fulfil them, nor would they 
hesitate to affix their seals to the instrument, but that it had better not bear 
on its face the assertion or appearance of their claiming absolute indepen- 
dence. There was none of the delaying, crooked policy of the Japanese in 
these negotiations. The Lew Chewans were made fully to understand what 
had transpired in Japan, and probable derived confidence and candor from 
their knowledge of the Japanese treaty, which was shown to them. 

After the discussion our officers returned on board to report to the Com- 
modore their proceedings, and submit the terms proposed and accepted. On 
the 10th, the same gentlemen were sent to hold another interview with the 
regent, when they soon succeeded in arranging all the terms of the compact 
satisfactorily to both parties, and obtained from the regent a promise that 
a bazaar should be opened on shore, on the succeeding Wednesday and 
Thursday, for the officers of the ships. It was also arranged that the Cdni- 
modore would visit the regent at an appointed hour on the morrow. On the 
next day, in the morning, the Commodore sent on shore a number of presents 
for the regent, treasurer, and other officers of the island, consisting of re- 
volvers, lorgnettes, a dressing-case, and numerous valuable agricultural im- 
plements. He was also particularly careful to send a handsome present to the 
poor woman who had been the subject of Board's outrage. At noon he 
landed himself, and, with a small escort of marines, visited the regent at the 
town-hall. 

After the usual compliments, and a formal delivery of the presents he 
had sent on shore, the articles of agreement or compact that had been made 



570 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

were produced, written in the Englisli and Chinese languages, and read, and 
the instruments were duly signed and sealed, and copies exchanged, by the 
Commodore, regent, and treasurer of Lew Chew, the English version being 
as follows : 

" Compact between the United States and the kingdom of Lew Chew, signed 
at Napha, Great Lew Chew, the 11th day of Jidy, 1854. 

" Hereafter, whenever citizens of the United States come to Lew Chew, 
they shall be treated with great courtesy and friendship. Whatever articles 
these persons ask for, whether from the officers or people, which the country 
can furnish, shall be sold to them ; nor shall the authorities interpose any 
prohibitory regulations to the people selling; and whatever either party 
may wish to buy shall be exchanged at reasonable prices. 

" Whenever ships of the United States shall come into any harbor in Lew 
Chew, they shall be supplied with wood and water at reasonable prices ; 
but if they wish to get other articles they shall be purchasable only at 
Napha. 

" If ships of the United States are wrecked on Grreat Lew Chew, or on 
islands under the jurisdiction of the royal government of Lew Chew, the 
local authorities shall dispatch persons to assist in saving life and property, 
and preserve what can be brought ashore till the ships of that nation shall 
come to take away all that may have been saved ; and the expenses incurred 
in rescuing these unfortunate persons shall be refunded by the nation they 
belong to. 

" Whenever persons from ships of the United States come ashore in Lew 
Chew they shall be at liberty to ramble where they please, without hindrance, 
or having officials sent to follow them, or to spy what they do ; but if they 
violently go into houses, or trifle with women, or force people to sell them 
things, or do other such like illegal acts, they shall be arrested by the local 
officers, but not maltreated, and shall be reported to the captain of the ship 
to which they belong, for punishment by him. 

" At Tumai is a burial-ground for the citizens of the United States, where 
their graves and tombs shall not be molested. 

^' The government of Lew Chew shall appoint skilful pilots, who shall be 
on the look-out for ships appearing off the island ; and if one is seen coming 
towards Napha, they shall go out in good boats beyond the reef to conduct 
her in to a secure anchorage ; for which service the captain shall pay the 
pilot five dollars, and the same for goiog out of the harbor beyond the 
reefs. 

" Whenever ships anchor at Napha, the local authorities shall furnish 
them with wood at the rate of three thousand six hundred copper cash per 
thousand catties ; and with water at the rate of six hundred copper cash 



COMPACT CONCLUDED. 571 

(43 cents) for one thousand catties, or six barrels full, each containing thirty 
American gallons. 

" Signed in the English and Chinese languages, by Commodore Matthew 
C. Perry, commander-in-chief of the United States naval forces in the East 
India, China, and Japan seas, and special envoy to Japan, for the United 
States; and by Sho Fu Fing, superintendent of affairs (Tsu-li-kwan) in Lew 
Chew, and Ba Rio-si, treasurer of Lew Chew, at Shui, for the government 
of Lew Chew ; and copies exchanged this 11th day of July, 185-1, or the 
reign Hien Fung, 4th year, 6th moon, 17th day, at the town hall of 
Napha." 

As soon as this business was thus happily completed, a handsome enter- 
tainment, furnished by the Lew Chew authorities, was served, of which the 
Americans partook, and great kindness and cordiality characterized the fes- 
tivities. At four o'clock the Commodore returned to his ship. On the next 
day, the 12th, there was sent off to the Commodore a large bell, as a present 
from the regent ; whether of Lew Chew casting is not known, though the 
probability is it was made in Japan, and, at any rate, it is no discreditable 
specimen of foundry work. A little circumstance that occurred on this last 
visit to Lew Chew was highly gratifying to the feeling with which every 
American thinks of the character of Washington. Various parts of the world, 
as is known, have testified their appreciation of the exalted virtues of the 
father of our country, by contributing a stone to be wrought into the monu- 
ment which is rising at Washington, to perpetuate the memory of one who 
presented a specimen so rare of the qualities which ennoble humanity. There 
is something at once impressive and beautiful in such a tribute, coming from 
the men of various lands and tongues, as if all were anxious to claim their 
kindred share in a glorious possessor of human nature, and to attest their 
respect fbr such an illustration of human purity. It serves to show that as 
a man Washington belonged to the world, and men everywhere are justly 
proud of their brotherhood ; such pride is their tribute to human virtue ; as 
the leader of our army who perilled all he had on earth for his country, and 
as the head of our republic, he belonged indeed to us ; but we are willing 
and glad that good men everywhere should seek to catch inspiration from his 
virtues. When these poor Lew Chewans knew that a stone from their far 
distant island would be acceptable, even they understood what it meant, they 
had heard of " the great mandarin," as they called him, and the stone was 
sent. So, too, the rocks of Japan and Formosa have furnished their quota 
of material, and thus the broad lands of earth's continents, and the remote 
islands of oriental seas, have alike brought together their enduring tributes 
to a memorial which is meant 

*• To give the world assurance of a man ! " 



572 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

It was during tliis last visit, also, that a circumstance occurred which 
served to show that some of the common Japanese, at least, had seen enough 
of the world and of other people than their countrymen to make them de- 
sirous of seeing more. While the squadron was lying at anchor at Napha, a 
native of Japan, who was in Lew Chew, in what capacity we know not, 
swam from the shore to the Lexington with a bundle of clothing, and beg- 
ged to be received on board and to be brought to the United States. The 
officer in command of the Lexington sent him to the flag-ship ; and while 
the Commodore would have made no objection provided the assent of the 
Japanese authorities had been obtained, yet, knowing their severe restric- 
tions on the subject of natives leaving the kingdom, and, scrupulously 
anxious not to give offence, he declined receiving the man, and ordered 
him to be set on shore again. The only Japanese who came home in the 
squadron were part of the shipwrecked crew of a junk, of which we have 
already spoken. These men were taken from San Francisco to China, and 
there two of them shipped themselves as landsmen on board the Susque- 
hanna, and both are now in the United States. Frequent intercourse with 
one of them — a young man of some twenty-two years — enables us to say that 
he is remarkably intelligent, reads and writes Japanese, both Kata-kaua and 
Hira-kana, has learned to speak (though imperfectly) and to write English, 
is very desirous of information, conforms to our customs and fashion in dress, 
and is most scrupulously clean and tidy. His wish is to learn more of our 
country and language, and then to return to Japan. 

On the evening of the 14th the Commodore gave a parting entertain- 
ment on board his ship to the authorities of Lew Chew. All passed off 
pleasantly, and at nine o'clock the guests returned on shore, after uttering 
many thanks for the attentions the Commodore had shown them on his re- 
peated visits, and expressing and seemingly feeling great gratification in the 
courtesies that had been shown them. On the next day the Lexington was 
ordered to Hong Kong and sailed immediately ; and on the 17th the Com- 
modore left in the Mississippi, accompanied by the Powhatan, these being 
the only remaining vessels of the squadron, and the harbor of Napha was 
left to the quiet in which it reposed when our ships fii'st anchored in its 
waters. 

Whatever satisfaction their departure may have afforded the Lew 
Chewans was doubtless enhanced by the fact that the ships took away Dr. 
Bettelheim. This gentleman had been superseded by the Rev. Mr. More- 
ton, who was on the ground ; and Dr. Bettelheim's family had left some time 
before for China in the Supply. The earnestness of application to the 
Commodore to take Dr. Bettelheim away with him forcibly demonstrates 
the very little prospect there was of any useful labors, on his part, among 
the natives ; and, indeed, their desire to be rid of Mr. Moreton also, 



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EXPEDITION TO FORMOSA. 573 

would seem to hold out but small hope, at present^ of evangelizing Lew 
Chew.* 

The Powhatan, pursuant to orders, took her course for Ning-po-fou, 
Fuh-chow-fuh, and Amoy, on the coast of China, to inquire into the in- 
terests of Americans resident in those places, and was instructed to pro- 
ceed from Amoy to Hong Kong. The Mississippi proceeded direct to the 
last named port. 

And now, while she is on her passage, we will return in our narrative to 
the expedition to Formosa, the incidents of which occurred simultaneously 
with those which form the subject of the previous part of this chapter. It 
will be remembered that the Macedonian, Captain Abbot, and the Supply, 
Lieutenant Commanding Sinclair, had been sent from Simoda, before the 
squadron left that port, with instructions to visit Formosa, and the former 
ship was also ordered on her way thence to China, to stop at the Philip- 
pines. There was more than one object contemplated in the visit to For- 
mosa. Certain of our countrymen, as our authorities at home had been in- 
formed, navigating near Formosa, had been shipwrecked and thrown upon 
that island, where they remained, either in a state of captivity or because 
they were unable to get away. Instructions were therefore given by the 
navy department to the Commodore to make research and inquiry into this 

* Frx)m the authorities of Lew Chew to Commodore Perry : 

A prepared statement. She Fu-fing, general superintendent of affairs in the kingdom 
of Lew Chew, and Ba Rio-si, treasurer at Shui, earnestly beg your excellency's kind con- 
sideration of some circumstances ; and that, to show compassion on our little country, you 
will take away back to their own land Bettelheim and Moreton, who have remained 
here long. ******* 

In the years 1844 and 1846 some French officers came, and the Englishman Bettelheim 
also brought hither his wife and children to reside, and they all required something to be 
daily given them, to our continual annoyance and trouble. "WTienever an English or a 
French ship came in, we earnestly represented these circumstances to them, and besought 
them to take these people away with them. The Frenchmen, knowing our distresses, went 
away in the year 1848 to their own country, and have not hitherto returned ; but Bettel- 
heim has loitered away years here and not gone, and now, further, has brought Moreton 
with his family to take his place, and live here, greatly to the discomfort of the people, 
and distress and inconvenience of the country. 

"We have learned that your excellency has authority over all the East Indian, China 
and Japan seas, and not a ship of any western country can go from one of these seas to 
the other but you know and regulate its movements. Wherefore we lay before you our gad 
condition in all its particulars, humbly beseeching your kind regard upon it, and request- 
ing that, when your fine ships return, you will take both Bettelheim and Moreton away 
with you. This wiU solace and raise us up from our low condition, and oblige us in a 
way not easy to be expressed. We wish your life may be prolonged to a thousand autumns, 
in the enjoyment of the highest felicity. 
July 10, 1854. 



574 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

matter. Again, the importance of an abundant supply of coal for the use of 
steamers, not only of our own, but of other nations that may reasonably be 
expected ere long to throng these seas, furnished another motive for the visit 
to Formosa, as there was reason to think the mineral existed in abundance on 
that island. There was also a particular reason for touching at the Philip- 
pines, which we will detail presently. 

On the 29th of June, the Macedonian and Supply left Simoda. On the 
second day out the Supply disappeared, and was not seen again until she en- 
tered the harbor of Kelung in Formosa, on the 21st of July, ten days after 
the arrival' at that place of the Macedonian, which had made the run from 
Simoda in about twelve days, encountering an opposing current, head winds, 
and tempestuous weather through nearly the entire voyage. The island was 
made at its northern end, and the entrance to Kelung was not very plain. 
Certain landmarks, however, were noted by the officers, upon further ac- 
quaintance with the locality, and by these and the charts made by the sur- 
veying party during the stay of the ship, information was obtained which 
may be relied on. Very violent currents were found at the north end of the 
island, though these may have been stronger than usual at the arrival of the 
Macedonian, as there had then been a tempest of some days' continuance. 
A pilot came off and took the ship safely into the harbor. 

As to our supposed shipwrecked and captive countrymen, Captain Abbot 
made the most diligent investigation, through the medium of his Chinese 
steward, but could gain no intelligence, although his inquiries were made, 
not only of the mandarins or officials in and about Kelung, but also of all 
classes of the people. The report from all was uniform ; they declared that 
they neither knew nor had heard of any shipwreck of any American or 
European vessel on any part of the island; nor had they ever known or heard 
of the existence of the crew, or any part thereof, of any such vessel anywhere 
in Formosa, and Captain Abbot became quite convinced that, in this partic- 
ular, they told the truth, and reported to the Commodore accordingly, that 
he had " no belief that any of our missing countrymen are alive on the island 
of Formosa." 

But after this conclusion had been reached, and no doubt correctly, a 
specimen of cunning was exhibited, on the part of the island authorities, 
such as meets us at every turn in the story of our intercourse with all the 
eastern people, and indeed seems characteristic of oriental negotiation. The 
chief mandarin of Kelung came to Captain Abbot, just as he was about sail- 
ing (he had doubtless purposely deferred his visit until that moment, to 
forestall the possibility of strict inquiry), and informed him that he had been 
making more particular investigations concerning shipwrecks, and had 
learned that some six or seven years before a ship had been wrecked, forty 
or fifty miles from Kelung, on the western side of the island, having a num- 
ber of black men on board as well as white ; that the white men took the 



COAL IN FORMOSA. 575 

boat and went off to an adjacent island, while the black men were left, and 
all died on board the ship ; and that he would send some of his war-junks 
with the Macedonian to show Captain Abbot the place. This story was a 
lie too transparent to deceive Captain Abbot for a moment, and was evidently 
a ruse by which the Formosan hoped to induce the commander of the Macedon- 
ian to do what, for several days, he had been unavailingly persuading him to 
perform. He had been endeavoring to prevail on him to take the ship, in 
company with some of his war-junks, to the western side of the island, a run 
that, in going and returning, would occupy, he said, four or five days only, 
and there assist him in driving off the rebels who were there collected, with 
whom his troops had lately had a fight and been beaten, with a loss of thirty 
men killed and wounded. The fact was that he lived in constant fear of an 
invasion from Amoy. He told Captain Abbot that if he would render him 
this assistance, he would, immediately on his return, make him a present of 
a large ship-load of coal. It is needless to say that Captain Abbot paid no 
attention to his proposals for a moment ; he then seemed very anxious that 
the ship should prolong her stay at Kelung, as he supposed her presence 
there would insure the place from any attack by the rebels during her stay. 

As to another object of the mission to Formosa, the search for coal, this 
was confided to the chaplain, Mr. Jones, of the Mississippi ; and Midshipmen 
Breese and Jones, with Mr. Williams, master's mate, all of the same ship, 
were detailed for special duty as assistants. Sufiice it here to say, that he 
found an abundance of coal, of excellent quality, admirably situated for 
transportation from the mines to the water at very little expense ; and that 
he had reason to believe that a considerable part of the island, around 
Kelung, at least, was underlaid with coal. Several tons were purchased and 
brought away, though in the negotiation, the Formosans, high and low, 
showed themselves to be such adepts in falsehood and cunning, that even the 
equanimity of the good chaplain was disturbed, and his really mild and 
amiable spirit was roused to meet the prevarications of the chief mandarin, 
by bidding the interpreter say to him, "that he had trifled with us, had lied, 
and tried to deceive us from the beginning, and that he would be trifled with 
no longer;" and this, from the lips of Mr. Jones, will appear to those who 
know his eminently peaceful temper, to be terribly energetic language. It 
may well be doubted whether he ever before told any body, in good whole- 
some English, that " he lied;" and yet the squadron, probably, did not con- 
tain a more resolute and fearless man. 

On the 23d of July, the Macedonian left Kelung, for Manilla, in the 
island of Luconia. The Supply was ordered to remain, to take in the coal 
and sail, as soon as she could, for Hong Kong. On this part of her voyage, 
the Macedonian encountered terrible weather, having met with the border 
of a typhoon soon after getting clear of the northern shores of Formosa. 
This providentially carried the ship very rapidly on her course to the south- 



576 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

ward of the south end of the island before the tempest became so violent 
that she could not run. In the long experience of Captain Abbot, (so he 
reports,) he never before encountered such weather at sea. " We had," says 
he, "a constant succession of heavy, tempest squalls, with hard, drenching 
rains, some of them peculiarly severe and frightful in appearance. The ship 
suffered more, during this short passage, in her sails and rigging, than on her 
whole passage out from the United States." 

But this is emphatically the region for phenomena and convulsions of 
nature. The vessels of the squadron had a varied experience in these waters. 
Some met typhoons, and some suddenly found themselves alongside of marine 
volcanoes. It was within ten miles of Formosa that Lieutenant Command- 
ing Boyle, in the store-ship Southampton, when on his way from the United 
States to join the squadron at Hong Kong, came near a marine volcano. He 
thus describes it : " On the 29th of October, 1853, near the island of For- 
mosa, I discovered a volcano, distant from the land about ten miles, in a 
violent state of eruption, throwing out columns of vapor to a great height, 
resembling in appearance a similar phenomenon to which I was witness some 
years ago on the coast of Sicily; this, however, was of greater magnitude 
and force than that, although no lava was visible, by reason of the dense 
bank of vapor which hung around it. The depth of water here is much 
greater than on the Sicilian coast, and hence my conclusion as to the cause 
of not seeing lava. When last seen, at 3 p. m., it was in a lively state of 
activity, and bore N.N.W., distant about ten miles. It was in latitude about 
24° N., and longitude 121° 50' E. ; there was no sail in sight. 

" Shortly after passing the neighborhood of the volcano, we passed 
through a very heavy over-fall or rip, so much so, that the executive officer 
and others, at first, supposed that there were breakers. I had seen such an 
appearance before, and decided that it was, what it proved to be, an effect 
of the volcano merely. On arriving, a few days afterwards, at Lew Chew, 
I found that they had had a few shakes. ****** 

" On my discovery of the phenomenon off Formosa, I had at the mast- 
head, in addition to the usual look-out, a seaman, called Gilbert Lee, in 
whom I had great confidence, who at first thought the appearance was caused 
by a steamer. One of the petty officers, A. L. Benton, also, took particular 
notice of it; several on deck said they did not know what to make of it. As 
I have before stated, it had the same appearance as when Grraham's island 
rose from the ocean off the coast of Sicily." * 

* It would seem that this part of the ocean exhibits this phenomenon with considerable 
frequency. We have before us a letter from Lieutenant Jones, addressed to Lieutenant 
Bent, in which he describes a similar convulsion, to which he was a witness, in January, 
1850, and not far from the spot designated by Lieutenant Commanding Boyle. Mr. Jones 
was, at the time, in command of the United States sloop-of-war St. Mary's, and thus writes: 
"It was in latitude about 20^ 56' N., and longitude 134° 45' E. I was in the St. Mary's. 



lilQUIRY INTO A MURDER. 577 

As no opportunity was ever lost by the squadron of obtaining accurate 
information that might benefit nautical men of all countries, while the Mace- 
donian was at Kelung, Lieutenant Preble was employed, under Captain 
Abbot's orders from the Commodore, in making a survey of the harbor; in 
this work Passed Midshipman Jones volunteered as an assistant, and a chart 
was prepared by these gentlemen, the correctness of which may be relied on. 
The object of the Conamodore in directing the Macedonian to proceed from 
Kelung to the Philippines was twofold. In the month of March, 1853, a 
shocking murder had been committed by several Spaniards on two Ameri- 
cans, at a rope-factory at Santa Mesa, within the jurisdiction of the governor 
and captain general of the Philippines. Captain Abbot was instructed re- 
spectfully to ask of the authorities what measures, if any, had been taken to 
discover and bring to punishment, under the Spanish law, the perpetrators 
of the homicide. The Marquis de Novaleches, the governor-general, in reply 
to Captain Abbot's inquiries, very promptly informed him that the courts 
had been employed ever since the murder occurred, in ferreting out and 
punishing the guilty; that some of those concerned had been detected and 
sentenced ; that two of the criminals had not yet been found, but that, if in 
the islands, the court, which had not relaxed its zeal and diligence, would 
find and punish them ; that instructions had been received from the govern- 
ment at home most earnestly to prosecute the matter to the fullest penalties 
of the law on all who were guilty ; and finally, that all which had been done 
had been fully reported to the Government of her Catholic Majesty, and 
probably through that channel to the authorities of the United States. 

The other cause for Captain Abbot's visit was occasioned by an act of 
humanity on the part of our countrymen. On the morning of the 5th of 
August, 1853, in about latitude 18° 46' N., longitude 124° E., the store- 
ship Southampton, Lieutenant Commanding Boyle, was steering S.W. by 

We were bound from the Sandwich Islands to Hong Kong. The wind at the time was 
moderate from the eastward, and the sea smooth. At about 11 p. m., the ship going seven 
or eight knots, the wind suddenly died away, the sea became troubled, the air heated, and 
a sulphurous smell was, to some of the men, very apparent. There were puflfs of wind from 
different quarters, but before the yards could be braced around, it would be calm again. 
This lasted about twenty-five minutes, when the wind came out as before from the east- 
ward, and when I came on deck, at midnight, there was nothing unusual in the appearance 
of the weather or sea. Unfortunately, the officer of the deck did not take the temperature 
of the air or the water, nor did he think of sounding. 

" My information was derived immediately after the watch, from the officers and men 
of the watch. All noticed the wind dying away suddenly, and most of them the heated air. 
A number observed the sea, and thought they were in a tide-rip, but a larger one than 
they had ever before seen. Only a few remarked the sulphurous smell, but they were posi- 
tive and to be relied on; they were intelligent men. The officer of the deck I think was 
one, also the quartermaster. Though all did not give the same account, there was no con- 
tradiction." 

37 



578 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

W., the wind blowing from the northward and westward a fresh top-gallant 
breeze, with considerable swell, when a boat was discovered to windward. 
The ship was hove to, and presently succeeded in getting on board, the boat 
and its contents. When hoisted in and measured, the craft was found to be 
twelve feet long, four wide, and seventeen inches deep. On board of the 
boat, when the ship thus picked her up, were six males, four of whom were 
adults, and two were boys, the one about ten and the other fourteen years 
of age. They were all of healthy appearance, of medium stature, of a dark 
color, the hair cut close, not tattooed, and did not appear to be much ex- 
hausted. Captain Boyle supposed, from their appearance, that they might 
have been adrift some two or three days. They had in the boat about two 
or three dozen ears of Indian corn (maize), a few sweet potatoes, some pre- 
pared betel nuts, a cask, two gongs, a fishing net, an axe, a small piece of 
grass cloth as a sail, and a colored piece supposed to be a flag. Of water 
they had none ; but from the frequent showers encountered by the ship, 
Captain Boyle concluded they had not suffered much from the want of it. 

To what nation or people these poor creatures belonged no one could tell, 
as nobody on board could understand their language. It was observed, how- 
ever, that the word most frequently on their lips was Sil-li-ha-hoo. The 
nearest land to the ship was Cape Engano, the N.E. point of Luconia, dis- 
tant about one hundred miles. The Babuan and Bashee group were about 
one hundred and eighty miles directly to windward ; and the first conjec- 
ture was that possibly they might belong to these. Their dress consisted of 
wide-legged trowsers extending a little below the knee, with a dark-colored 
gown enveloping the entire person, and secured around the neck by a draw- 
ing string ; their heads they would sometimes bind around with a cotton 
handkerchief, after a fashion not unlike that used by the blacks of the South- 
ern States. Though seemingly not much exhausted when they were taken 
on board the ship, yet they evidently experienced great difficulty in walking, 
from their long confinement in a cramped position. Sleep, with suitable diet, 
however, soon restored them to their usual condition. 

When the ship came near and passed through the group of islands just 
named, the commander watched closely to observe if they showed any mark 
of recognition. Their attention was called to them by signs, and they seemed 
to understand the pantomimic inquiry, for they invariably shook their heads 
as if to imply that their home was not there, and pointing towards the east- 
ward, said, " Sil-li-ha-hoo.'''' Soon after the ship arrived at Com-sing-moon, 
in China, and here great pains were taken to discover, if possible, where 
these poor adventurers belonged. There were many ships lying there, and 
the Commodore directed that diligent search should be made among them 
all, in the hope that, perchance, some one might be found who could com- 
municate with them. They were visited by many from the various vessels, 
and, from their timidity, they fell at first under the suspicion that they were 



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THE SILLIBABOOS. 579 

anxious to remain unknown ; but Captain Boyle became quite convinced that 
their shyness, and repugnance to leave the ship, proceeded from fear alone. 
They were taken on board each of the trading ships at Cum-sing-moon, and 
out of the numerous tongues spoken on board not one was found like that 
spoken by these men. At length they uttered some words when on the 
deck of the English ship Bombay, which Captain Jamieson, the commander, 
thought he recognized as belonging to the language of the natives of the 
Bentinck Isles. On perceiving that their words were attracting notice, 
they made their usual salaam, and uttering Sil-li-ha-hoo, afterwards held 
their peace. There is an island called by that name, and mentioned by 
Horsburg as being in latitude 4° N., longitude 127° E.,but this is so remote 
from the spot where they were picked up, some twelve or fifteen hundred, 
miles, that Captain Boyle could not suppose it possible they had drifted such 
a distance. The wind had, indeed, for several days been strong from the south- 
ward and eastward, just before the boat was seen, though at the time they 
were picked up it was from the northward and westward. Notwithstanding 
this, however, it seemed most improbable that in their frail craft they coul d 
have floated so many miles. Captain Jamieson and his crew interested 
themselves much for these poor creatures, and persevered in their efforts to 
communicate with them by means of the slight vocabulary they had ac- 
quired in their voyagings ; and though such communication was very imper- 
fect, of course, yet it was plain some words were understood, and the unfor- 
tunate men were evidently pleased, and sought opportunities of mingling 
with those who could comprehend any portion, however small, of their lan- 
guage. With these imperfect means of knowledge, the best account Captain 
Jamieson could gather from them was, that they did come from Sil-li-ba-boo, 
distant as it was ; that they left the land in their boat with some articles of 
food for a vessel in the offing, met a fresh breeze which carried them out to 
sea, and, by its continuance, prevented their return to land, and that they 
had been in the boat fifteen days when the Southampton picked them up. 
By direction of the Commodore, two of the surgeons of the squadron made 
a minute examination of these Sil-li-ba-boos, and reported in substance as 
follows : 

" The Sil-li-ba-boos are of medium height and well set, with moderate 
muscular development, and, though possessed of no great strength, are active 
in movement. Destitute of the fatty tissue beneath the skin which generally 
gives roundness and fullness to the forms of northern races, the Sil-li-ba- 
boos have, from this deficiency, a sharp and angular contour, that deprives 
them of all claim to physical beauty. Their features have the irregular ex- 
pression of the negro, though their color resembles that of the mulatto. 
Their heads are small and round, with a large disproportionate development 
of the posterior part of the skull ; their faces are oval, their foreheads mod- 



580 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

erately Ligh, their eyes dark, but not very brilliant or intelligent, and their 
chins broad and massive. Their noses are long and flat, their lips thick and 
prominent, and their large mouths display strong, well-formed teeth, which, 
however, are generally blackish, from the use of the betel nut. The skin is 
smooth, with a small supply of black coarse hair in those parts where it is 
usually found, except on the head ; there it grows profusely and straight, but 
is worn short. Their limbs are lithe, and their hands and feet small. Their 
language is soft and agreeable to the ear, but, although it is supposed to be 
a derivation from the Malayan, it is not intelligible to those on board familiar 
with the ordinary dialect of the Malays. They are, however, believed to be 
of Malay origin, much modified by the effects of climate and accidental causes. 
The intelligence of the Sil-li-ba-boos is so far blunted as to place them with- 
in the category of the savage races, to which, in habits and social character- 
istics, they are closely allied." 

One purpose of the visit of the Macedonian to Manilla was to hand over 
the Sil-li-ba-boos to the governor-general of the Philippines, that they 
might be protected and sent home. The governor, with many expressions of 
gratitude for the kindness that had been shown toward these involuntary 
wanderers, received them ; and we may indulge the hope that, long ere this, 
they have reached their native island, there to tell to their wondering coun- 
trymen the story of their providential preservation and marvellous adven- 
tures. 

On the 17th of August, the Macedonian (her officers having been shown 
the greatest civility and kindness both by the authorities and the American 
residents) left Manilla for Hong Kong, and her voyage presented a strong 
contrast to what she had experienced in the run from Formosa to Manilla. 
Captain Abbot reported that for the first five days he had either a dead 
calm, or light, baffling winds from the north and northwest, which did no 
more than enable him to make an offing from the land ; and after that, either 
calms or moderate breezes had prevailed, with pleasant weather, and the very 
unusual circumstance of scarcely any southing in the winds. On the 26th, 
the Macedonian was at her anchorage at Hong Kong. 

Our artists, as usual, busied themselves in sketching scenes and objects 
of interest on this their last visit to China, and directed their attention par- 
ticularly to the manipulations connected with the preparation of agricultural 
products for market. The rice-hulling machine falls far behind that of the 
Japanese worked by water. 

Nor is the mode of whipping cotton, which fell under their observation, 
more worthy of admiration. It is a clumsy and laborious contrivance, which 
Yankee ingenuity would soon supersede, provided the Emperor of the Celes- 
tials would grant " a patent for the invention," which could be protected. 
Without that, we think Jonathan will not tax his ingenuity. 



CHINESE AGGRESSIONS. 581 

It will be remembered that we left the flag-ship, the Mississippi, on her 
way from Lew Chew to Hong Kong. She arrived after a short passage, 
and the Commodore now turned his attention to affairs in China. The 
reader will not have forgotten that the Plymouth, Commander Kelly, had 
been left at Shanghai to watch over the interests of our countrymen there, 
and did not accompany the squadron on the second visit to the Bay of Yedo. 
And now it was found that the Chinese imperial troops had given both the 
English and ourselves some work to do during the Commodore's absence. 
The first acts of aggression were shown in the latter part of February and 
begginning of March, very soon after our squadron had left for Japan on the 
second trip. The imperial troops were at that time encamped around the 
settlement of the foreigners at Shanghai, and the imperial fleet was an- 
chored off the place. They soon began their acts of violence and robbery on 
the land, by tearing down buildings that the foreigners were erecting, and 
stealing the materials ; while their fleet, without the slightest previous 
notice, commenced firing upon and searching all boats passing up or down 
the river. Complaints were made in the first instance to the general com- 
manding the Chinese troops, and to the Taoutae^ or commander-in-chief of 
the fleet. These functionaries at length acknowledged their inability to 
prevent such acts of aggression, and said that the foreigners would have to 
protect themselves. 

It so happened that on the 6th of March a pilot boat, under the Ameri- 
can flag, and belonging to three of the foreign residents, Ayers, Linklater, 
and Donaldson, all American citizens, was passing on the river with her en- 
sign flying, when, without hail or warning, she was fired upon by one of the 
imperial fleet, the Sir H. Compton, and ordered alongside. The order was 
perforce complied with. On reaching the Compton she was immediately 
boarded from that vessel by a body of armed men, who forthwith hauled 
down the American ensign, draggei the crew of the boat up the side of the 
ship, and made them fast by lashing their long Chinese queues to the main- 
mast. Commander Kelly was informed of these facts by the American 
consul at seven o'clock that evening, when, in a very few minutes. Lieutenant 
Guest had his orders, and was under way for the Compton, in one of the 
ship's cutters, manned by eleven men, armed, and accompanied by the 
owners of the pilot boat. His instructions were to release the boat and 
crew, and demand of the captain by what authority he had dared thus to 
insult the American flag. Lieutenant Guest, of course, interpreted his in- 
structions to mean that, if necessary, he should use force to release the boat 
and her crew. He was soon alongside of the Compton, and, pursuant to orders, 
inquired first for her captain, to whom Commander Kelly had addressed a 
note on the subject of the outrage. He was told that the captain was on 
board the Agnes, another Chinese vessel of war ; he pulled to her, and was 
there told that he was on shore. Lieutenant Guest did not suppose it to be 



582 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

his duty to seek for him any further, and was soon hack to the Compton. 
This vessel was anchored in the middle of the Chinese fleet, mounted some 
ten or twelve guns, and had about forty men on her deck, renegades and scoun- 
drels of all nations. On getting alongside, the lieutenant immediately 
ascended the vessel's side, accompanied by the owners of the boat, ordering 
his eleven men to remain in the cutter, and to come when he called them, 
but not before. On reaching the deck he asked for the officer in command, 
when a Portuguese stepped forward and claimed that rank. Lieutenant 
Guest then asked him how he dared to fire upon and make prisoners of 
men under the protection of the American flag, and demanded that they 
should be immediately released and their boat given up. He replied that 
he did not do it, and that in the captain's absence he had no authority to 
release either men or boat. He then conferred with another official (a 
Chinaman), and he confirmed his decision. Lieutenant Gruest then called out 
to his men, " come on board," and with wonderful alacrity and speed they 
were on the deck, each with cutlass in hand, and in a moment had released 
the prisoners from their confinement to the mainmast. About this time the 
crew of the Compton had assumed a menacing attitude, and Mr. Donaldson 
called out to the lieutenant that some of the men on the poop-deck were 
levelling their muskets at the Americans. Fortunately the Portuguese 
commanding officer was at that moment very near Lieutenant Guest. In- 
stantly drawing and cocking his pistol, the American officer levelled it at 
the Portuguese, and told him that on the first shot fired he would blow out 
his brains. On hearing this threat, he called loudly to his men on the 
poop to desist, and no further obstacle was interposed to the taking away 
of either boat or men. One of the owners examined the pilot boat before 
her removal, and reported to the lieutenant that his property was all safe, 
and she was then taken with her crew to a place of safety, within gun-shot 
of the Plymouth. 

The next morning (the 17th) Commander Kelly informed the Taoutae, 
or commander of the imperial fleet, through our consul, that as the Compton 
had insulted the American flag, she had an act of public atonement to render, 
which consisted in her hoisting our national colors at her fore-royal mast- 
head in open day, and saluting them with twenty-one guns ; and he made a 
demand accordingly. The Taoutae seeming not disposed to make this act 
of reparation for unprovoked insult, Commander Kelly, after the allowance 
to him of a reasonable time, got under way, and proceeded to the anchorage 
of the imperial fleet for the purpose of enforcing his demand by arguments, 
less gentle indeed, but probably more effective than any he had yet used. 
The Plymouth, however, had scarcely gained her position, before the cap- 
tain of the Compton came on board, and informed Commander Kelly that he 
was ordered by the Taoutae to make any concession he, the American captain, 
mif'-ht demand, and that on the following day he would hoist the American 



BRUSH WITH THE CHINESE. 583 

flag at the fore, and at noon salute it with twenty-one guns. Commander 
Kelly thought he might as well stay where he was and see it done, as he was 
determined it should be, and on the next day, at noon, it was done accord- 
ing to promise, when the Plymouth returned to her old anchorage off the 
American consulate. 

One would have supposed that the Chinese might have learned from this 
transaction that there was a limit to the patience and forbearance of the 
foreigners at Shanghai ; but, though we hear no more of their insolence 
on the water, the aggressions of the land troops still continued in the out- 
skirts of the settlement ; and although they were frequently warned by the 
consul of every nation of the probable consequences of such conduct, it 
availed nothing, and at last the old reply came, that the foreigners must 
take care of themselves. The foreigners then resolved to take the Chinese 
at their word and protect themselves. 

The marauding celestials were not long in forcing them to execute their 
resolution. On the third of April some of the imperial troops commenced 
destroying a building, which one of the foreigners was erecting, and carrying 
off the timbers. The owner, on hearing of it, repaired with a friend to the 
spot, where his remonstrances were answered by an attack on both the gen- 
tlemen with swords. Providentially one of them had a revolver, with 
which he defended himself and wounded two of his assailants, who then re- 
treated. Very soon after, however, they began to assemble from the differ- 
ent camps, and attacking a lady and gentleman, compelled the former to flee 
for her life, pursued by these miscreants, and inflicted several wounds on the 
latter. It was now obvious that the time had come to deal with these ver- 
min, and the alarm was given. Her Britannic Majesty's ships Encounter 
and Grrecian were in the harbor, as well as the Plymouth, and from the for- 
mer a small body of marines had been previously put on shore for the pur- 
pose of giving protection. As soon as the alarm was given, these repaired 
to the race-course, where the Chinese were assembled in large numbers, and 
were immediately fired upon. The ground in the vicinity is literally covered 
with tombs, and behind these the little handful of marines were obliged to 
seek temporary shelter until reinforcements could arrive. The blue jackets 
and marines were soon landed from the English ships and from ours, and the 
Chinese were driven back to their encampments, one of which was captured 
and destroyed. The English and Americans then retired for the night, 
keeping up strong patroles. The next morning early a conference was held 
by the English and American consuls, Captain O'Callaghan, of the English 
service, and Commander Kelly, who came to the conclusion that it was 
necessary for the safety of the foreign settlement and population, that the 
entrenched encampments of Chinese, in the vicinity of the race-course, should 
be abandoned by them ; and the gentlemen resolved to inform the Chinese 
general and the commander of their fleet that they must be so abandoned by 



584 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

four o'clock on that day, failing whicli, they would be destroyed. To this 
communication no reply had been received at half-past three, when the 
foreigners proceeded to their work. Captain O'Callaghan, with about one 
hundred and fifty sailors and marines from the English ships, and the Shang- 
hai volunteers, occupied the right; the sailors and marines from the -Ply- 
mouth, in number about sixty, together with thirty men from the American 
merchant ships, and two private field-pieces, worked by American citizens, 
who placed themselves under Captain Kelly, occupied the left, the whole of 
this later detachment being under the orders of Commander Kelly. This 
detachment had also a twelve-pound howitzer, with which at four o'clock it 
commenced throwing shells into the encampment. This was continued for 
some fifteen or twenty minutes, when, no return being made from the entrench- 
ment, Commander Kelly ordered the firing to cease, with the view of charging 
into the camp. The men advanced accordingly, when thay found themselves 
separated from the encampment, at a distance of about thirty yards from it, 
by a creek twenty feet wide and seven deep. Here the Chinese opened a 
smart fire of musketry and gingals from behind their mud walls, while our 
men were totally unprotected. The fire continued here about ten minutes 
when Commander Kelly directed a flank movement to the left, where were 
numerous mounds, which would afford the assailants some protection, and 
whence they could also throw their shot into the enemy's camp. In about 
eight minutes the Chinese fled in great disorder, leaving behind them a 
number of wounded and dead. 

While these things were passing on the left. Captain O'Callaghan had 
assaulted them on the right, captured their entrenchments on that side, and 
set their encampment on fire. He then marched up to the rear of that 
entrenchment which Commander Kelly had attacked in front, so that it was 
between the two detachments, and set fire to that encampment also. The 
English and Americans then retired for the night. The next morning, at 
daylight, they were again on the spot, when a hundred Chinese coolies were 
set to work, and soon levelled all the embankments. The casualties to the 
English and Americans were equal; each had one man killed and three 
wounded. After this the Chinese behaved themselves quietly. 

And now the Commodore, having finished the work assigned him by his 
country, and worn down by long-continued anxiety of mind, ill health of 
body, aggravated, doubtless, by his solicitudes and cares for many months 
and an increasing debility, began to look toward the rest of home, which he 
so much needed. He had written to the Hon. Secretary some time before, 
asking leave, when his work was done, to turn over the command to the 
officer next in rank, and return to the United States. At Hong Kong he 
found awaiting him dispatches from the Navy Department, conveying the 
leave he asked, leaving it optional with him to return in the Mississippi, or 
by the overland route from India. He chose the latter, and delivering to 



CLOSE OF THE EXPEDITION. 585 

Captain Abbot the command of the squadron, now composed of the Mace- 
donian, Powhatan, and Yandalia only (the rest having been all ordered 
home), after a most friendly acknowledgment of his services by his country- 
men living in China, and a kind farewell expressed in a correspondence be- 
tween himself and the great commercial houses of Russel, Nye, Wetmore, 
King, and indeed all the American firms and residents, — ^he embarked, in 
company with his flag lieutenant, in the English mail steamer Hindostan, 
and arrived in New York on the 12th day of January, 1855, having been 
absent from the United States two years and two months. 

On the 23d of April, 1855, the Mississippi reached the navy yard at 
Brooklyn, and on the next day the Commodore, repairing on board, and 
formally hauling down his flag, thus consummated the final act in the story 
of the United States expedition to Japan. 



SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTEE. 



commander Adams arrives in the United States with the treaty. — Submitted by the President and ratified 
by the Senate. — Commander Adams sent back with authority to exchange ratifications. — Arrives at 
Simoda after an absence of little more than nine months. — Altered aspect of the place from the eflfects 
of an earthquake. — Japanese account of the calamity. — Loss of Russian ship-of-war Diana. — Russians 
make a treaty exactly like ours, with a substitution merely of Nagasaki for Napha as one of the three 
ports. — French ship brings in two shipwrecked Japanese. — Authorities refuse to receive them except 
from under our flag, having no treaty with France. — Men taken on board the Powhatan, and then re- 
ceived by their countrymen. — Energy of Japanese in rebuilding Simoda. — Freedom of intercourse 
with the people. — No more espionage. — Brisk traffic at the shops.— Delivery to Captain Adams of some 
religious tracts left at Simoda by Mr. Bittinger. — Japanese had learned to manage the locomotive, but 
not the telegraph. — Moryama Yenoske promoted. — Message from the Commissioners to Commodore 
Perry. — Ratifications exchanged. 



HE Narrative of tlie Japanese Ex- 
pedition, properly speaking, ended 
with the act recorded in the clos- 
ing sentence of the last chapter; 
but for the completion of the 
story, it is thought it will prove 
not unacceptable to our country- 
men to present the subsequent 
transactions connected with the 
treaty up to the exchange of rati- 
fications by the respective repre- 
sentatives of Japan and our own 
government. 

Commander Adams, it will be 
remembered, was dispatched home 
with a copy of the treaty, on the 
4th of April, 1854, in the Sara- 
toga. On the 1st of May, he 
reached Honolulu, and took the 
first vessel that off'ered for San 
Francisco, and thence, taking the 
usual route, via Panama, reached the City of Washington on the 12th of 
July thus making the travel from Japan to our seat of government in 




EARTHQUAKE AT SIMODA. • 587 

three months and eight days. The treaty was submitted by the President 
to the Senate, and was by that body promptly and unanimously ratified ; 
and on the 30th of September Commander Adams left New York with the 
ratified copy for Japan. On reaching England, he took the overland route, 
and arrived at Hong Kong on the 1st of January, 1855. The Powhatan 
was ordered by Commodore Abbot immediately to convey Commander 
Adams to Simoda, where he arrived on the 26th of January, 1855, with 
full powers as the representative of the United States to exchange with the 
Japanese authorities the ratifications of the treaty. The journey back to 
Simoda occupied three months and twenty-seven days, and the whole time 
that elapsed between the signing of the treaty and the arrival of it in 
Japan, duly ratified by the President and Senate, was nine months and 
twenty-two days. 

On the arrival of Commander Adams at Simoda, he found a great and 
sad change in the physical aspects of the place. In the interval during his 
absence from Japan, (on the 23d of December, 1854,) an earthquake had 
occurred which was felt on the whole coast of Japan, doing some injury 
to the capital, Yedo, completely destroying the fine city of Osaca on the 
southeastern side of Niphon, and leaving abundant evidences of its ruinous 
ejffects at Simoda. One who should now visit the place, would find the 
description of it given in our narrative and the pictured illustrations of 
our artists no longer appropriate. They represent Simoda as it Was, Every 
house and public building on the low grounds had been destroyed ; a few 
temples and private edifices that stood on elevated spots were all that 
escaped, and but sixteen structures were all that was left of what was once 
Simoda. The inhabitants told Commander Adams that the destruction was 
not caused by the immediate agitation of the earth, but by the action of 
the sea which it occasioned, and which regularly followed the shocks. 
According to the statements of the Japanese, the waters in the bay and near 
the shore were first observed to be violently agitated ; they soon began rap- 
idly to retreat, leaving the bottom of the harbor, where usually there were 
five fathoms of water, nearly bare. The water then rushed in upon the land in 
a wave five fathoms above its usual height, and, overflowing the town up to 
the tops of the houses, swept everything away. The frightened inhabitants 
fled to the hills for safety, but before they could reach their summits they 
were overtaken by the climbing waters and hundreds were drowned. The 
waters retreated and returned in this manner five several times, tearing 
down everything, and strewing the adjacent shores with the wrecks and 
ruins of houses prostrated and vessels torn from their anchorage. The 
Russian frigate Diana, bearing the flag of Admiral Pontiatine, was lying 
in the harbor at the time. The Russian ofiicers told Commander Adams 
that when the waters retreated, the mud boiled up from the bottom in a 
thousand springs. When they came in they boiled like a maelstrom, and 



588 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

such was their velocity and force that the frigate actually made forty- three 
complete revolutions in the space of thirty minutes. The officers and crew 
were made giddy by this rapid turning. Their anchor had been let go in six 
fathoms ; when the waters retreated they could see it, and had but four feet 
of water alongside. The ship's rudder, stern-post, and a great part of her 
keel, were knocked off and lost, and her bottom was very much injured. 
After the effects of the earthquake had somewhat subsided, and the sea 
became comparatively tranquil, she was found to leak badly. Her guns 
were landed, and as there was no suitable place in Simoda to heave her 
down. Admiral Pontiatine sent to look for some contiguous spot fit for the 
purpose ; and it may subserve the interests of navigation here to record, 
that he informed Commander Adams that he found a most excellent and 
sheltered harbor, resembling that of Hakodadi, but smaller, and completely 
land-locked, with an abundance of water. It is about sixty miles from 
Simoda, at a place called Hed-do^ situated at the head of the bay which lies 
westward of the peninsula of Idzu. Here the Russian admiral attempted 
to take his disabled ship and repair her, but a gale came on, and she foun- 
dered near the shore, the officers and crew with difficulty saving their lives. 
They were all in Japan during the stay of Commander Adams, and, at that 
time, with little prospect of getting away. They, however, subsequently 
chartered the American schooner Foote, as we have related on a previous 
page, and sailed in her for Petropaulowski. The Russians were in distress, 
and Captain McCluney, of the Powhatan, generously supplied them with all 
the provisions he could spare from his ship. The object of the admiral was 
to make for his country a treaty with Japan, and it was concluded after the 
loss of his ship, and during the stay of Commander Adams; who was 
informed by the admiral that it was exactly like that made hy Commodore 
Perry for us, with the single change of a substitution of the harbor of 
Nagasaki for that of Napha in Lew Chew ; this, we venture to suggest, is 
no improvement, inasmuch as the long continued and tame submission of the 
Dutch at Dezima has taught the Japanese officials there to be very arro- 
gant and insolent toward foreigners. But, although Admiral Pontiatine 
thus succeeded in making a treaty, to Commander Adams the Japanese 
'' appeared to entertain no goodwill toward the Russians." They are prob- 
ably suspicious of their ultimate purposes. 

While the Powhatan was at Simoda, a Prench ship arrived there and 
anchored in the outer harbor, having on board two Japanese seamen who 
had been taken off the wreck of a junk about three years before by an 
American whale-ship. The authorities ordered the vessel off, would permit 
none of their people to go on board of her, and positively refused to receive 
the shipwrecked seamen. They had, they said, no treaty with France, and 
French vessels had no right to come there under any pretext. At the 
intercession, however, of Commander Adams and Captain McCluney, they 



EFFECT OF EARTHQUAKE ON THE HARBOR. 589 

agreed to receive their shipwrecked countrymen from the Powhatan, if 
Captain McCluney would first receive them on board his ship, and then 
deliver them as coming from an American man-of-war. This plan was 
adopted. The men were kept all night on board the Powhatan, and land- 
ed the next morning. They were immediately, however, compelled to lay 
aside their European clothing, and conform in all respects to the Japanese 
costume ; besides which they were placed under a strict surveillance, which 
continued, at any rate, as long as the ship remained. 

Notwithstanding the calamities caused by the earthquake, there was 
shown a resiliency, in the Japanese character, which spoke well for their 
energy. They did not sit down and weep over their misfortunes, but, like 
men, went to work, seemingly but little dispirited. They were busily 
engaged, when the Powhatan arrived, in clearing away and rebuilding. 
Stone, timber, thatch, tiles, lime, &c., were coming in daily from all quar- 
ters, and, before the Powhatan left, there were about three hundred new 
houses nearly or quite completed, though occasional and some pretty strong 
shocks, during the ship's stay, were admonishing them of a possible recur- 
rence of the calamity. 

The outlines of the haibor of Simoda, Commander Adams states, were 
not altered at all by the earthquake, but the holding ground seems to have 
been washed out to sea, leaving no bottom scarcely but naked rocks. This, 
however, will be resupplied, as it was furnished in the first instance, by the 
washings from the land, whch will probably accumulate rapidly. The Pow- 
hatan, for want of holding ground, dragged with three anchors ahead, the 
wind blowing across the harbor, and no sea. Indeed, she was obliged to 
rely on her steam to keep off the rocks. 

From the place we now turn to the people. The Japanese were much 
more disposed to be friendly and sociable than on the former visit. The 
officers of the ship roamed over the country undisturbed, went into the vil- 
lages, and were received with a welcome everywhere. Espionage seemed 
to have been laid aside, for there was no attempt to follow or watch them. 
The shops having all been destroyed, and not yet replaced, a bazaar was 
opened in a temple repaired for the purpose, and was soon filled with a 
variety of beautiful articles brought from Yedo and the interior towns. 
The officers were not only invited but importuned to buy, which they did 
very freely. An anxious wish was expressed by the people to Commander 
Adams, that trading vessels from America would soon begin to visit them, 
and the governor of Simoda (who was one of the commissioners that made 
the treaty) intimated to the Commander that it would be very agreeable to 
him, personally, if a consul from the United States should be appointed to 
reside at Simoda. 

The Japanese were exceedingly desirous of obtaining English books, 
particularly on medical and scientific subjects ; and many valuable works 



590 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 

were given to them by our officers. But they coveted our books on any 
subject except religion. One circumstance occurred which, says Command- 
er Adams, " made me feel a little ashamed." " The governor of Simoda 
sent off a bundle of religious books which he said ' Bittinger ' (one of the 
chaplains of Commodore Perry's squadron) had left there clandestinely, 
which was contrary to Japanese law, and ' not right ; ' and he begged me to 
take them away with me, which I agreed to do." 

Commander Adams found that they had learned to manage the locomotive 
which the President had sent to the Emperor ; they had also the life-boat 
afloat with a trained crew, but the magnetic telegraph they said was too 
hard for them yet. Every day, when Commander Adams was not employed 
on shore, the lieutenant governor or some official of high rank came off to 
visit him, and their meetings were those of old friends. Some of them 
indeed were old acquaintances ; the governor of Simoda was Isawa, Mima- 
saki Nokami, one of the treaty commissioners, and our old friend the inter- 
preter, Moryama Yenoske, who assisted in making our translation of the 
treaty (he understood English) was also at Simoda, having been very 
deservedly promoted ; others of the commissioners were also there for the 
purpose of exchanging ratifications, and Commander Adams was not allowed 
to feel as if he were among strangers. The commissioners inquired with 
great interest about Commodore Perry, sent many messages of friendship 
and remembrance, and charged Commander Adams to say to him that his 
" name would live for ever in the history of Japan." 

As to the exchange of ratifications, the Japanese, at first, interposed 
two objections ; these, however, did not arise from unwillingness to abide 
by their engagements, but were rather technical, and founded upon their 
scrupulous interpretation of the terms of a written contract, and upon 
their profound respect for ceremonials. The objections were, first, that 
their copy of the treaty said it was to be ratified after eighteen months ; 
ours said within eighteen mouths ; but as the Dutch and Chinese transla- 
tions agreed with our English copy, and as that had been taken as the 
original, from which all the translations, including their Japanese version, 
had been made, they became convinced that the discrepancy arose from the 
ignorance of their translator, and having had explained to them what was 
meant by our English word " within," as here used, they very gracefully 
withdrew all objection on this score. The other objection was to the 
Emperor's affixing his sign manual to the Japanese copy for our govern- 
ment. They said the Emperor never signed any document, but the supreme 
council only. Commander Adams represented to them that the President 
and Secretary of State had signed the copy he had brought for them, and 
beside, the Emperor was the party named in the instrument as having made 
the treaty, and therefore he wished his signature. Finally, it was conclud- 
ed that both the Emperor and supreme council should sign it, and it was 



EXCHANGE OF RATIFICATIONS. 591 

accordingly done. On the 21st of February the exchanges were formally 
made, and as soon as it was done, the Powhatan immediately showed the 
Japanese flag at the fore and fired a salute of seventeen guns. 

The commissioners also gave Commander Adams a ratified copy of the 
" additional regulations " made between the Commodore and the Japanese 
commissioners, which they seemed to consider part of the treaty, with a 
request that he would deliver it to the President, and ask him to send out, 
by some American ship, the American ratification as soon as it was com- 
pleted. On the day after the ratification, February 22, the Powhatan left 
Simoda, and our new and, as we trust, enduring friendly relations with 
Japan are thus associated, in date at least, with the name of Washington. 



APPENDIX 



Sailing directions for the harbor of Simoda^ hy Lieut. Wm. L. Maury ^ 

U. S. N. 

Vessels bound to the harbor of Simoda, from the southward and west- 
ward, should make Cape Idzu, from which Rock island bears ESE. J E., 
distant about six miles ; and if the weather is at all clear, the chain of 
islands at the entrance of the Gulf of Yedo will at the same time be plainly 
visible. 

Between Rock island and the main land there are a number of rocks 
awash and above water, among which the Japanese junks freely pass, but a 
ship should not attempt a passage inside of Rock island, unless in case of 
urgent necessity, particularly as the northeasterly current which sweeps 
along this coast, seems to be, at this point, capricious, both in direction and 
velocity. 

Giving Rock island a berth of a mile, the harbor of Simoda will be in 
full view, bearing N. |- W., distant five miles. 

Vandalia bluff, on the east side of the entrance, may be recognised by a 
grove of pine trees on the summit of the bluff, and the village of Susaki, 
which lies about one third of the way between it and Cape Diamond. Cape 
Diamond is a sharp point making out to the eastward of the entrance of the 
harbor. 

Standing in from Rock island, you will probably pass through a number 
of tide-rips, but not get soundings with the hand-lead until near the entrance 
of the harbor, when you will be in from seventeen to twenty-four fathoms. 

Should the wind be from the northward, and fresh, a vessel should 
anchor at the mouth of the harbor until it lulls or shifts, or until she can 
conveniently warp in, as it is usually flawy and always baffling. 

Approaching from the northward and eastward, a vessel can pass on 



APPENDIX. 593 

either side of Oho-Sima, from the centre of which Cape Diamond bears 
W. by S., distant about seventeen miles. 

Between Oho-Sima and Simoda no dangers are known to exist ; but the 
northeasterly current must be borne constantly in mind, particularly at night 
and in thick weather. Its general strength is from two to three miles per 
hour ; but as this, as well as its direction, is much influenced by the local 
winds, headlands, islands, &c., neither can be relied upon. 

Should Oho-Sima be obscured by thick weather before reaching Cape 
Diamond, endeavor to sight Rock island, for there are no very conspicuous 
objects on the main land by which a stranger can recognise the harbor at a 
distance, and the shore appears as one unbroken line. 

To the westward of the harbor there are several sand-beaches, and three 
or four sand-banks. These can be plainly discerned when within six or 
eight miles, and are good landmarks. 

A vessel from the southward and eastward should pass to the westward 
of the island of Kozu-Sima,* which may be known by a remarkable snow- 
white cliff on its western side. There is also a white patch on its summit 
to the northward of the cliff. From this island the harbor bears N. by 
W. I" W., distant about twenty-six miles. 

There are but two hidden dangers in the harbor. The first is the 

SOUTHAMPTON KOCK, 

which lies in mid-channel, bearing N. -^ W. from Yandalia bluff, about 
three-fourths of the way between it and Centre island. The rock is about 
twenty-five feet in diameter, and has two fathoms water upon it. It is 
marked by a white spar-buoy. 
The secozji is the 

SUPPLY ROCK, 

bearing S. by W., a short distance from Buisako islet ; is a sharp rock, 
with eleven feet water upon it. Its position is designated by a red spar- 
buoy. 

Both of these buoys are securely moored, and the authorities of Simoda 
have promised to replace them, should they by any cause be removed. 

Centre island, which receives its name from being the point from which 
the treaty limits are measured, is high, conical, and covered with trees. A 
cave passes entirely through it. 

In the outer roads, or mouth of the harbor, a disagreeable swell is some- 
times experienced ; but inside of the Southampton rock and Centre island, 
vessels are well sheltered, and the water comparatively smooth. Moor with 
an open hawse to the southward and westward. 

There are good landings for boats in Simoda creek, and at the village of 
Kakisaki. 

A harbor-master and three pilots have been appointed ; wood, water, 

* This is the most south-western island of the chain of islands lying off the Gulf of Yedo. 



i 



594 APPENDIX. 

fish, fowls, and eggs, also sweet potatoes and other vegetables, may be pro- 
cured from the authorities. It is necessary to supply them with casks to 
bring the water off. 

Latitude Centre island, 34° 39' 49" N. ; longitude, 138° 57' 30" E. 
Variations, 52' westerly. High water, F. & C, Y hr. Extreme rise of 
tide, 5 feet 7 inches. Mean rise of tide 3 feet. 

To make the foregoing directions more easily comprehended, they have 
been rendered as concise as possible ; but to furnish further information to 
navigators bound to or passing the port, the following additional remarks 
are appended : 

The harbor of Simoda is near the south-eastern extremity of the peninsula 
of Idzu, which terminates at the cape of that name. To the northward of 
the harbor, a high ridge intersects the peninsula, and south of this, all the 
way to the cape, it is broken by innumerable pea'ks of less elevation. 

The harbor bears SW. by W. from Cape Sagami, at the entrance of 
Yedo bay, distant about 45 miles. 

Rock island is about 120 feet high, and a third of a mile long, with pre- 
cipitous shores and uneven outlines. It has a thick matting of grass, weeds, 
moss, &c., on the top. 

From the summit of this island overfalls were seen, bearing N. |- W., 
distant a mile, or a mile and a half. These may have been caused by a 
rock or reef An attempt was made to find it ; but the strong current and 
fresh wind prevented a satisfactory examination. The Japanese fishermen, 
however, deny the existence of any such danger. 

N. by W. from Rock island, distant two miles, are the Ukona rocks. 
These are two rocks, though they generally appear as one. The largest is 
about 70 feet high. Between these and Rock island, the current was found 
setting east-northeasterly, fully four miles an hour. 

Centre island bears from Rock island N. -J- E., distant five and a half 
miles, and from Ukona rocks N. by E. ^ E., distant three and a half miles. 

Buisako islet lies NNE. from Centre island. It is about 40 feet high, 
and covered with trees and shrubs. 

Should the buoy on Southampton rock be removed, the east end of 
Centre island, on with the west end of Buisako, will clear the rock to the 
westward. 

Off the village of Susaki, and distant one-third of a mile from the shore, 
is a ledge of rocks, upon which the swell is always breaking ; give them a 
berth of two cables in passing. 

Due west from Vandalia bluff, about one third of the way to the opposite 
shore, is a deep hole, with upwards of 30 fathoms water. 

Approaching from the eastward, the harbor will not open until you get 
well inside of Cape Diamond. 

To the northward of Cape Diamond is the bay of Sirahama, which is 



Sailing directions for JEaJcodadi, hy Lieut. Wm. L. Maury^ U. S. N. 

This spacious and beautiful bay, which for accessibility and safety is one 
of the finest in the world, lies on the north side of the straits of Sangar, 
which separates the Japanese islands of Nippon and Yesso, and about mid- 
way between Cape Sirija Saki * (the NE. point of Nippon,) and the city of 
Matsmai. It bears from the cape NW. ^ W., distant about 45 miles, and 
is about 4 miles wide at the entrance, and 5 miles deep. 

The harbor is the southeastern arm of the bay, and is completely shel- 
tered, with regular soundings and excellent holding-ground. It is formed 
by a bold peaked promontory standing well out from the high land of the 
main, with which it is connected by a low sandy isthmus, and, appearing in 
the distance as an island, may be readily recognised. 

The town is situated on the northeast slope of this promontory, facing 
the harbor, and contains about 6,000 inhabitants. 

Approaching from the eastward, after passing Cape Suwo Kubo, named 
on our chart Cape Blunt, which is a conspicuous head-land 12 miles 
E. S. E. ^ E. from the town, the junks at anchor in the harbor will be 
visible over the low isthmus. 

FOR ENTERING THE HARBOR. 

Rounding the promontory of Hakodadi, and giving it a berth of a mile, 

* Saki in the Japanese language means cape ; consequently it should be more properly 
called Cape Sirija ; but to prevent mistakes it has been thought advisable to adopt the 
Japanese names. 



^ 



APPENDIX. 595 

quite deep, and, as it has also several sand-beaches, it may be mistaken for 
Simoda; but as you approach this bay. Cape Diamond will shut in the 
Ukona rocks, and Rock island to the southward, whilst in the Simoda roads 
they are visible from all points. 

Cape Idzu— latitude, 34° 36' 03" N. ; longitude, 138° 48' 51" E. Rock 
island— latitude, 34° 33' 50" N. ; longitude, 138° 57' 16" E. 

To the southward and westward of Kozu-Sima there are two patches of 
dangerous rocks, 15 or 20 feet high, which have been named Redfield rocks. j 
They are in latitude 33° 56' 13" N., longitude 138° 48' 31" E., and lati- "^ 
tude 33° 57' 31" N., longitude 138° 49' 13" E. 

These positions may not be strictly correct, but it is believed they are 
not much out of the way. 

By order of Commodore M. C. Perry, U. S. N. 

SILAS BENT, 
Flag Lieutenant 

U. S. Steam-Frigate Mississippi, 
Napa J Lew- Chew ^ July 7, 1854. 



?< 



596 APPENDIX. 

to avoid the calms under the high land, steer for the sharp peak of Komaga- 
daki, bearing about north, until the east peak of the Saddle, bearing about 
NE. by N., opens to the westward of the round knob on the side of the 
mountain ; then haul up to the northward and eastward, keeping them open 
until the centre of the sand-hills on the isthmus bears SE. by E. f E. (these 
may be recognised by the dark knolls upon them.) This will clear a spit 
which makes out from the western point of the town in a north-northwesterly 
direction two-thirds of a mile ; then bring the sand-hills a point on the port 
bow, and stand in until the western point of the town bears SW. ^ W., 
when you will have the best berth, with 5^ or 6 fathoms water. If it is 
desirable to get nearer in, haul up a little to the eastward of south for the 
low rocky peak which will be just visible over the sloping ridge to the 
southward and eastward of the town. A vessel of moderate draught may 
approach within a quarter of a mile of Tsuki Point, where there is a 
building-yard for junks. This portion of the harbor, however, is generally 
crowded with vessels of this description ; and unless the want of repairs, or 
some other cause, renders a close berth necessary, it is better to remain 
outside. 

If the Peak or Saddle is obscured by clouds or fogs, after doubling the 
promontory, steer N. N. E., until the sand-hills are brought upon the bearing 
above given, when proceed as there directed. 

A short distance from the tail of the spit is a detached sand-bank with 
3J fathoms on it, the outer edge of which is marked by a white spar-buoy. 
Between this and the spit there is a narrow channel with 4 and 5 fathoms 
water. Yessels may pass on either side of the buoy, but it is most prudent 
to go to the northward of it. 

Should the wind fail before reaching the harbor, there is a good anchor- 
age in the outer roads, in from 25 to 10 fathoms. 

Excellent wood and water may be procured from the authorities of the 
town; or if preferred, water can be easily obtained from Kamida creek, 
which enters the harbor to the northward and eastward of the town. 

The season at the time of our visit was unfavorable for procuring sup- 
plies ; a few sweet and Irish potatoes, eggs and fowls, however, were 
obtained, and these articles at a more favorable period of the year will, no 
doubt, be furnished in sufficient quantities to supply any vessels that may 
in future visit the port. 

Our seine supplied us with fine salmon and a quantity of other fish, and 
the shores of the bay abound with excellent shell-fish. 

During our stay in this harbor, from the 17th May to 3d June, the 
weather was generally pleasant until the 1st June, when the fog set in. It 
was usually calm in the morning, but towards the middle of the day a brisk 
breeze from SW. sprung up. 

Latitude mouth of Kamida creek, 41° 49' 00" N. ; longitude, 140° 47' 



APPENDIX. 597 

45" E. ; variation, 4° 30' W. ; high water, F. & C. V hours ; extreme rise 
and fall of tide, 3 feet. 

Our chronometers were rated at Napa Kiang, Lew-Chew, from the 
position of that place as given by Captain Beechy, R. N. 

By order of Commodore M. C. Perry, U. S. N. 

SILAS BENT, 

Flag Lieutenant. 
U. S. Steam-Frigate Mississippi, 

At Sea, July 18, 1854. 



Sailing directions for Yedo Bay, hy Lieut. Wm. L. Maury, U. S. Navy. 

Vessels from the southward bound to this bay, should pass up to the 
westward of the chain of islands lying off the Gulf of Yedo, and are cau- 
tioned against mistaking the deep bight of Kawatsu bay for the entrance 
of Uraga channel, for on the northeast side of this bay there is a ledge of 
rocks several miles from the shore, bearing from Cape Sagami about WNW., 
distant ten miles, upon which one of the vessels of our squadron grounded. 
A stranger without a correct chart would naturally make this mistake, as 
the opening of the channel is not seen at a distance from this quarter, the 
shore appearing as an unbroken line. 

The entrance to the channel bears from the centre of Oho-Sima NE. J 
N., distant about twenty miles. Stand in upon this line, and the saddle-hill 
to the northward of Cape Sagami will be readily recognised, as well as the 
round black knob on the eastern side of the channel. On approaching Ura- 
ga, the Plymouth rocks will be plainly seen ; give these a berth of half a 
mile to clear the Ingersoll Patch, a sunken rock with but one fathom on it, 
and which is the only known danger in the channel. 

Between Plymouth rocks and Cape Kami-Saki the ground is clear and 
the anchorage good, if care be taken to get pretty well in, so as to avoid the 
strong tides which sweep round the latter with great rapidity. A spit 
makes out a short distance to the southward of Kami-Saki; but to the 
northward of the cape, the shore is bold and the water very deep. 

On rounding Cape Kami-Saki, if bound for the city of Yedo, steer NW. 
by N. until Perry island bears S. by W. f W., so as to clear Saratoga spit, 
which extends well out from the eastern shore ; then haul up, keeping Perry 
island upon this bearing until the beacon on the low point to the southward 
of Yedo bears WNW. This clears the shoal off the point, and here there 
is good anchorage in about ten fathoms water, in full view of the city of 
Yedo. 

At this point our survey terminated ; the boats, however, found a clear 
channel with plenty of water for the largest vessels several miles farther to 
the northward, and within a few miles of the city 



598 APPENDIX. 

If bound to the American anctorage, from Cape Kami-Saki steer NW. 
and anchor in eight or ten fathoms water, "with Perry island hearing SSE., 
and Webster island SW. by S. 

To the southward of Webster island there is also good anchorage in six 
and seven fathoms. Near this anchorage there are two snug coves, very 
accessible, in which vessels may conveniently repair and refit. 

Susquehanna bay, three miles WNW. from Cape Kami-Saki, is well 
sheltered, but it contains a number of reefs and rocks, and is therefore not 
recommended as an anchorage. 

Mississippi bay is four miles north of the American anchorage ; it is well 
sheltered from the prevailing winds. Upon anchoring, it is necessary to 
give the shore a good berth, to avoid a shoal which extends out from a half 
to three-quarters of a mile. The conspicuous head-land or long yellow bluff 
on the north side of this bay is called Treaty Point ; a shoal surrounds the 
point from two-thirds of a mile to a mile distant. 

Between the American anchorage and Treaty Point the soundings are 
irregular, shoaling suddenly from twelve to five fathoms on a bank of hard 
sand. 

To the northward of Treaty Point and NNW. from Cape Kami-Saki, 
distant fourteen miles, is Yokuhama bay. To reach this anchorage, bring 
the wooded bluff which terminates the high land on the north side of the 
bay to bear N. by W. |- W., and steer for it until Treaty Point bears SW. 
by S. — this clears the spit off the point ; then haul up about NW. by N. for 
the bluff over the town of Kanagawa, and anchor in five and a half or six 
fathoms, with the Haycock just open to the eastward of Mandarin bluff. 
Mandarin is the steep bluff a mile to the northward of Treaty Point. 

A Sat extends out from the northern shore of this bay, between Kana- 
gawa and Beacon Point from one to two miles ; off Mandarin bluff there is 
also a shoal extending a mile to the northward. 

The bay of Yedo is about twelve miles wide, and thirty deep, with ex- 
cellent holding-ground, and capable of sheltering the fleets of the world. 

Our survey embraced the western shore only, from Cape Kami-Saki to 
Beacon Point. We had no opportunity of examining the eastern side. 
The soundings from Treaty Point across in an ESE. direction are regular, 
and three fathoms were found about a mile and a half from the opposite 
shore. 

Of Uraga channel, a reconnoissance was made of the western shore only. 

During our stay in the bay, from the 17th of February to the 18th of 
April, the weather was generally fine, being occasionally interrupted by 
strong winds and heavy rain. The gales came up suddenly from the south- 
ward and westward with a low barometer, and continued for a short time, 
when the wind hauled round to the northward and westward and moderated. 
We had no easterly blows ; in fact, the wind was rarely from this quarter. 



APPENDIX. 



599 



except when hauling round from the northward (as it invariably did) by 
east to the southward and westward. 

The tide is quite strong out in the bay ; and off the tail of Saratoga spit, 
Perry island, and Cape Kanii-Saki, its velocity is much increased. But at 
the anchorage in the bay of Yokuhama it was scarcely felt. At Yokuhama 
the Japanese authorities supplied us with wood and water, and a few vege- 
tables, fowls, eggs, oysters, and clams. 

Latitude Cape Sagami, 35° 06' 30" N. ; longitude, 139° 42' 45" E. Lati- 
tude Webster island, 35° 18' 30" N. ; longitude, 139° 40' 34" E. Latitude 
of Treaty building, north end of Yokuhama, 35° 27' 15" N. ; longitude, 
139° 40' 23" E. Variation, 25' westerly. High water F. and C, VL Rise 
and fall at Yokuhama, 6 feet. 

By order of Commodore M. C. Perry. 



U. S. Steam-Frigate Mississippi, 

Song-Kong^ September 4, 1854. 



SILAS BENT, 

Flag Lieutenant. 



Sailing Directions for Napha, Island of Great Lew Chew. 

This is the principal sea-port of the island, and perhaps the only one 
possessing the privileges of a port of entry. 

Its inner, or " Junk Harbor," has a depth of water of from two to three 
fathoms, and though small, is sufficiently large to accommodate with ease, 
the fifteen or twenty moderate sized junks which are usually found moored 
in it. These are mostly Japanese, with a few Chinese and some small coast- 
ing craft, which seem to carry on a sluggish trade with the neighboring 
islands. 

The outer harbor is protected to the Eastward and Southward by the 
main land, whilst in other di»*3ctions it is surrounded by merely a chain of 
coral reefs, which answer as a tolerable breakwater against a swell from the 
Northward or Westward, but affords of course no shelter from the wind. 
The holding ground is so good, however, that a well found ship could ride 
out here almost any gale in safety. 

The clearest approach to Napha from the Westward, is by passing to the 
Northward of the Amakarima islands and sighting Agenhu island, from 
whence steer a S. E. course for the harbor, passing on either side of Reef 
Islands, being careful, however, not to approach them too near on the West- 
ern and Southern sides, as the reefs below water in these directions, are 
said to be more extensive than is shown by the charts. 

After clearing Reef Islands, bring Wood Hill to bear S. S. E., when 
standing down for it, until getting upon the line of bearing for South chan- 
nel. This will carry you well clear of Blossom Reef, yet not so far off but 



GOO APPENDIX. 

that the White Tomb and clump of trees or bushes to the Southward of 
Tumai Head (see view No. 3 on chart,) can be easily distinguished. An 
E. N. E. 1-4 E., or E. N. E. course will now take you in clear of all 
dangers, and give a good anchorage on or near the Seven-fathom bank, about 
half a mile to the Northward and Westward of False Capstan Head. This 
channel being perfectly straight, is more desirable for a stranger entering 
the harbor, than Oar channel^ which, though wider, has the disadvantage 
of its being necessary for a vessel to alter her course some four or five points, 
just when she is in the midst of reefs which are nearly all below the surface 
of the water. 

TO ENTER BY OAR CHANNEL. 

Bring the centre of the island in Junk harbor (known by the deep ver- 
dure of its vegetation,) to fill the gap between the forts at the entrance of 
Junk harbor, (see view No 2 on chart,) and steer a S. E. 1-2 E. course, until 
Capstan Head bears East, when haul up to E. N. E. and anchor as before 
directed. 

THE NORTH CHANNEL 

t 

Is very much contracted by a range of detached rocks making out from 
the reef on the West side, and should not under ordinary circumstances be 
attempted by a stranger; as at high water the reefs are almost entirely 
covered, and it is difficult to judge of your exact position, unless familiar 
with the various localities and landmarks. To enter by this (North) chan- 
nel, bring a remarkable notch in the Southern range of hills, in line with a 
small hillock just to the Eastward of False Capstan Head (see view No. 1 on 
chart,) and stand in on this range S. by E. 1-2 E. until Tumai Head bears 
E. 1-2 N., when open a little to the Southward, so as to give the reef to the 
Eastward a berth, and select your anchorage. 

There is a black spar-buoy anchored on Blossom reef half way between 
its Eastern and Westerr, extremities, a red spar-buoy on the point of reef 
to the W. N. W. of Abbey point, and a white spar-buoy on the Southeast 
extremity of Oar reef. Flags of corresponding colors are attached to all 
these buoys, and they afi"ord good guides for the South and Oar channels. 
There are two large stakes on the reefs to the Eastward and Westward of 
North channel, planted there by the natives, this being the channel mostly 
used by junks trading to the northward. 

An abundance of water can always be obtained at the fountains in Junk 
river, where there is excellent landing for boats. There is a good spring 
near the tombs in Tumai blufi", but unless the water is perfectly smooth the 
landing is impracticable, and under any circumstances it is inconvenient 
from the want of sufficient depth, except at high tide. 

It is directed by the Commander-in-chief that the vessels of the squadron 
under his command, shall heave to, on approaching Napha, and make signal 



APPENDIX. 601 

for a pilot, when an ofl&cer familiar with the localities and landmarks will 
be sent ojff from the vessel in port to pilot her in, or point out to her com- 
mander the position of the dangers to be avoided. 

Should there, however, be no vessel in port, then boats are to be sent 
ahead, and anchored upon the extremities of the reefs between which the 
vessel intends to pass. 

By order of Commodore M. C. Perry. 

SILAS BENT, 
Lieut. U. S. Navy. 

Macao, Oct 1st, 1853. 

Note. — The spar-buoys above described, were securely moored at the 
time they were placed in their respective positions, by order of Commodore 
Perry, but may be displaced, or entirely removed, by the heave of the sea, 
or by the natives, and should therefore not be entirely relied upon. 

S. BENT. 
U. S. Steam-Frigate Powhatan, Harbor of Hakodadi, 
Island of Yesso, Japan, May 27th, 1854. 



The Kuro-Siwo, or Japan Stream, 

Is an immense oceanic current on the east coast of Asia, which will be 
found on the adjoining chart as delineated from the observations made by 
the Expedition, and bears a striking analogy, in every essential point, to the 
Gulf Stream of the Atlantic. 

The results of these observations show quite conclusively that the stream 
has its origin in the great equatorial current of the Pacific, from which it is 
separated by the south end of Formosa, about the latitude of 22° N., long. 
122° E., whence it is deflected to the northward along the east coast of For- 
mosa, until reaching the parallel of 60° North, when it bears off to the north- 
ward and eastward, washing the whole south-east coast of Japan as far as 
the Straits of Sangar. 

Near its origin the stream is contracted, and is usually confined between 
the islands of Formosa and Majico-Sima, with a width of one hundred miles, 
but to the northward of the latter it rapidly expands on its southern limit, 
and reaches the Lew Chew and Benin groups, attaining a width to the 
northward of the latter of five hundred miles. 

The north-western edge of the stream is strongly marked by a sudden 
thermal change in the water, of from 10° to 20°, but the southern and eastern 
limit is less distinctly defined, there being a gradual thermal approximation 
of the air and water. 

Along the borders of the stream where it chafes against the counter 
currents and torpid waters of the ocean ; as also in its midst, where whirls 
and eddies are produced by islands and the inequalities in its bed, strong 



602 APPENDIX. 

tide rips are encountered, often resembling heavy breakers on reefs or shoals. 
Its average velocity, between the south end of Formosa and the Straits of 
Sangar, was found to be from 35 to 40 miles per twenty-four hours. Yet, 
upon one occasion, off the Grulf of Yedo, its maximum strength is recorded 
as high as 80 miles per day. 

To the northward of the parallel of 40° N. in long 143° E. there is a cold 
counter current intervening between it and the south coast of Yesso, as 
shown by a sudden thermal change in the water, of from 16° to 20°, which, 
it is believed, sets to the westward, through the Straits of Sangar, but the 
limited stay of the squadron in that vicinity, and the harassing prevalence 
of fogs, prevented such observations being made as to satisfactorily deter- 
mine whether or not there was a predominant current flowing in either 
direction, or whether it was merely the ebb and flow of the tides through 
the Straits. To the westward, however, of a line connecting the north end 
of Formosa and the south-western extremity of Japan, a cold counter cur- 
rent was again found, which sets to the southward through the Formosa 
channel into the China sea, and it does not, therefore, seem unreasonable to 
believe that a hyperborean current will be found in the Japan sea, setting 
to the southward between the Japanese islands and the main coast of Asia, 
fed by that on the south coast of Yesso, and supplying that one setting 
through the Formosa channel. 

The Japanese are well aware of the existence of the Great Stream which 
washes the South-Eastern shore of their Empire, and have given it the name 
of Kuro-Siwo, or Black Stream, from its deep blue color when compared 
with the neighboring waters of the ocean. 

It was also noticed by Captains Cook, Kruzenstern and other explorers, 
but no systematic series of observations, it is believed, has ever before been 
made upon it. 

The average maximum temperature of the Kuro-Siwo is 86° and the 
difference between its temperature and that of the ocean due to the Latitude 
is about 12°. There is no counter current intervening between the Kuro- 
Siwo and the coast of Japan, to the southward of the Straits of Sangar, and 
nothing was found to manifest the existence of such a current as under- 
running that stream, and although the observations indicate strata of cool 
water, lying in the Longitudinal direction of the Kuro-Siwo, yet their temper- 
ature varied but a few degrees from the main body of the stream, and was 
almost invariably superior to that of the atmosphere above them. The 
insular position of Japan, and the separation of the cold counter current 
from the Kuro-Siwo, allowing the latter to hug close along the south-eastern 
shores of the islands, have a modifying influence upon the climate of the 
Empire, making it milder and more equable than in corresponding latitudes 
on the east coast of the United States. There is a floating sea-weed found 



APPENDIX. 603 

in the Kuro-Siwo, similar in appearance to the Fucus natans of the Gulf 
stream. 

In the passage of the Mississippi from Simoda to the Sandwich Islands 
the thermometer showed a cold aqueous space between the meridians of 
155° E. and 170° W. and the Parallels of 30° and 35° N. which bears a 
general correspondence in the Pacific to the position of the Sargassa Sea in 
the Atlantic. 



INDEX. 



Abbey point, Lew Chew, 176, 223, 
Abbot (Capt.), misled by Yon Siebold's charts, 879. 
inquiries at Formosa, 577. 
report of squalls near Formosa, 576. 
Adams, "William, pilot of the Dutch fleet, his ac- 
count of his visit to Japan, 35. 
his letters sent to England, 43. 
Adams (Capt.), conferences with Japanese officials, 
413, 414 
conversation with Japanese officials respecting 

the death of the emperor, 385. 
delivers American presents to the Japanese, 

414. 
conversation with Tezaiman, 897. 
discussion respecting Uraga, 387. 
interview with Japanese officials at Uraga, 396. 
Adams (Commander), interview with the governor 
of Uraga, 273, 277. 
interview with the mayor of Napha, 827. 
bearer of treaty to United States, 458. 
arrives home, 586. 

returns with ratified treaty to Simoda, 587. 
his numerous visits at Simoda, 590. 
Admiral, title of, used for that of Commodore in 

treating with the Japanese, 284. 
Agriculture of the Japanese, their grains, — tea, 66. 
Advanced state of Lew Chew, 256. 
Agriculturist, his share in the products of the land, 

252. 
Ainos, Tesso, 524. 

Alexander the Great, fleet of, visits Ceylon, 140. 
Althea, Lew Chew, 194. 
Amahs, Chinese nurses, 841. 
Amakirima islands near Lew Chew, 821. 
Amaral, Portuguese governor of Macao, plot against, 

349. 
America, Japanese knowledge of, 531. 
America, commercial houses of, high character of 
among the Chinese, 160. 



American merchants at Shanghai claim protection, 
171. 

anchorage, bay of Uraga, 808. 

anchorage, bay of Yedo, 380. 

merchants at Hong Kong make application of, 
to Com. Perry, 336. 

sailor captive in Japan, 396. 

ships, intercourse of, with Japan, 407, 409. 

limits in Japan, 419. 

ships in Japan, supplies for, 422. 

intercourse with the Japanese, 547. 

intercourse with Japan, treaty regulations re- 
specting, 549. 
Americans shipwrecked at Formosa, 573. 
Anatomical drawing, Japanese, 529. 
Antidote for poison in use in the Indian seas, 148. 
Arch, peculiar, at Nagaguska, Lew Chew, 195. 
Architecture, Japanese, 509. 
Areca tree, Bonin islands, 227. 
Argonaut, visit of the ship to, Japan, 49. 
Arms of Izawa, emblazoned, 401. 
Arrack tree, Bonin islands, 22i. 
Art, Japanese, 527. 
Arts of design in Japan, 64. 

Arzobispo, a name given to the Bonin islands, 280. 
Astronomical knowledge of the Japanese, 73. 
Awa, province of Japan, 266. 

capes of, 494. 
Ayahs, Chinese nurses, 341. 



B 



Baby, Japanese, 461. 

Bache, Prof, charts of the coast survey, 496. 
Baggass, or crushed sugar cane, 364. 
Bailey islands, 226, 
Ballastier, Mr., visit to Siam, 146. 
Bamboo range of mountains, Mauritius, 182. 
Bamboo, Lew Chew, 363. 
fences, Lew Chew, 208. 



ec6 



INDEX 



Banner rock, Lew Chew, 193. 

Banyan, Lew Chew, 363. 

Barometrical observations in the Indian ocean, 126. 

Barrels, Hokodadi, 525. 

Barrow's bay, Lew Chew, 197, 198, 200, 204 

Bastions, substitutes for, in the Fort of Nagaguska, 

Lew Chew, 195. 
Baths, public, Simoda, 469. 

Battas, a tribe of the Malays, their dainty cannibal- 
ism, 155. 
Batteries, Japanese, bay of Tedo, 400. 
Beacon fires, Japanese, bay of TJraga, 271. 
Beard, a full, black, a distinctive mark of the Ja- 
panese and Lew Chewans, 365. 
Beech tree. Peel island, 240. 
Beechey (Capt.), names the Bonin islands, 226. 
his nomenclature of the islands disowned, 230. 
position in his chart of Cape Lloyd erroneous, 

282. 
account of the Lew Chewans, 253. 
Beggars, commutation with, at Canton, 342. 
Begging, mode of, Canton, 342. 
Belcher (Capt.), account of the Lew Chewans, 253. 
Bell, a large, presented to Com. Perry by the regent 

of Lew Chew, 571. 
Bellows in blacksmith's shop at Napha, 251. 

Japanese, 526. 
Bent (Lt.), his MS. journal, iv. 

pilots the expedition in Napha harbor, 173. 
survey of the bay of Uraga, 274. 
conversation with Japanese respecting America, 

531. 
rebukes servility of Sam Patch, 557. 
commissioner of treaty with Lew Chew, 569. 
Bettelheim (Dr.), a missionary at Lew Chew, visits 
Com. Perry, 176, 177. 
remark on the old regent of Lew Chew, 247. 
believes Lew Chew a part of Japan, 254. 
remarks on education in Lew Chew, 256. 
history of, and his operations in Lew Chew, 258. 
a layman, 258. 
removal of, 371. 
leaves Lew Chew, 572. 

Lew Chew official declaration, concerning, 572. 
Biny, Japanese rouge, 460. 
Birds, scarcity of. Lew Chew, 199. 

Bonin islands, 233. 
Bishops bay, Macao, 165. 
Bettinger (Eev.), visits Kanagawa, Japan, 419. 
his exchange of American for Japanese coin, 

419. 
his kind treatment by the Japanese, 420. 
coins obtained by, returned, 426. 
Blacksmiths, Japanese, 526. 
Blacksmith's shop, Napha, 251. 
Blunt Cape, near Hakodadi, 498. 
Boar, wild, Lew Chew, 207. 

Peel island, 236. 
Board, supposed murder of, at Napha, 566. 
Boas of Ceylon, 143. 
Boatmen, Canton, 343. 
Boats, Japanese, 520. 
Bocca Tigris, Canton river, 161. 



Buonaparte, Napoleon, remarks on war to Basil 

Hall, 369. 
Bonham, Sir George, conference with Com. Perry, 

respecting the Bonin islands, 352. 
Bonin islands, 226, 243. 

discovery of the, by the Japanese, 227. 
advantages of establishing a naval station at the, 

242. 
described, 231. 
sovereignty of the, 229. 
Capt. Kelly's visit to the, 331. 
English claim to the, 852. 
Books in Japan, 74. 
in Lew Chew, 257. 
Japanese, 531. 
Borodino islands, 245. 
Bosquett (M.), a writer on hurricanes, 187. 
Boundaries, American, Simoda, 550.— Hakodadi, 

551. 
Boundary of American intercourse in Japan, 546. 
Bourboulon (M. De), French minister at Canton, 

351. 
Boyle (Lt.), assists the Macedonian, aground in the 
bay of Yedo, 379. 
places a buoy on a rock, bay of Yedo, 466. 
visits Obason island, 537. 
report of a marine volcano, near Formosa, 576. 
treatment of the Sillibaboos, 578. 
Brabant mountains, Mauritius, 132. 
Broom corn. Lew Chew, 196. 
Broughton rocks, bay of Yedo, 378. 
Brown (Mr.), daguerreotypist, 178. 
Buchanan (Commander), conducts regent of Lew 
Chew over the Susquehanna, 247. 
interview with the governor of Uraga, 273, 281. 
leads the escort of Com. Perry, 293. 
first American who landed in Japan, 294. 
conversation with the governor of Uraga, 806. 
Buddha, statues of, in the graveyard of Simoda, 471. 
Buddhism, extent of its influence, 26. 

in Ceylon, 145. 
Buddhist priest at a funeral, Japan, 412. 
temples, Simoda, 470, 473. 
offerings, 474. 
gardens, 476. 
religious services, 544. 
temples, Hakodadi, 512. 
occasionally used as places of concourse, 513. 
Building erected to receive the letter of the Presi- 
dent, Japan, 295. 
Burial customs. Lew Chew, 370. 
of a siilor at Kakizaki, 491. 
Butting a part of Japanese wrestling, 433. 
Buttons, Japanese taste for American, 41T. 



Cabinets d''Aisance, public, Japan, 523. 
Caffre war, consequences of the, 128, 126. 
Caffres, description of, 125. 
Camoens, history of, 165. 
cave of, 165. 



INDEX 



607 



Camp Perry, Lew Chew, 192. 
Camphor tree in Japan, 77. 
Cannibalism, daintiness in, 155. 
Canton, visit to, 159. 

annual trade of, 162. 

charitable asylums of, 343. 

river, 159. 
Cape Colony, population of, 124. 
Cape de Verde Islands, the Harmattan observed at, 

111. 
Cape of Good Hope, route to, from England, 121. 
Cape Town, visit to, 121. 
Cards, Japanese game of, 533. 
Cassa, sent to Japan by Sir Stamford EaflSes, 55. 
Castles of Lew Chew, 211. 
Cats and hogs, wild, hunted in the Bonin islands, 

233. 
Catherine, Empress of Eussia, directs shipwrecked 

Japanese to be sent home, 57. 
Cattle at Simoda, 491. 

Cecille (Admiral), explores Lew Chew, 263. 
Cedars, Japanese, large size o^ 77. 
Centipede boats, 182. 
Centre islands, Simoda harbor, 480. 
Ceylon, visit to, 188. 
Chairs, Lew Chew, 217. 
Chama gigas, Bonin islands, 232. 
Chang- YueUj the Lew Chew guide, 195. 
Chapin (Aldin B.), visits the Bonin islands, 200, 250. 

an early settler of the Bonin islands, 354. 
Charcoal, Japanese custom respecting, 369. 
Charitable institutions. Canton, 343. 
Charms on gravestones, Toku-hama, 472. 
Charts of Japanese waters in use, incorrect, 378. 
Chess, Japanese game of, 533. 
Chimneys, absence of, Simoda, 467. 
Chin-chin to Com. Perry, 177. 
China laws regulating etiquette on the death of an 
emperor, 3T4. 

benefit of American trade to, 410. 

American treaty with, 445, 446. 

sea, navigation of the, 156. 
China street, Canton, 161. 
China, imitation of, in Lew Chew, 256. 
Chinese, their claims to have colonized Japan, 10. 

language not understood by the Japanese, 11. 

commerce with Singapore, 150. 

traders, activity of, at Hong Kong, 158. 

coolies inefficient, 198. 

coolie, treatment of a sick, 205. 

lack of sympathy for a dying comrade, 224. 

emigrants, Com. Perry's remark on the trans- 
portation of, to California, 243. 

claim sovereignty over Loo Choo, 254. 

account of the origin of the Lew Chewans, 255. 

treated as strangers in Lew Chew, 255. 

emigrants to Lew Chew, 256. 

books in Lew Chew, 257. 

revolution, inquiry > f a Japanese respecting, 
803. 

abstemiousness of the, 339. 

Bervants, comprador, 340. 



feet, women averse to showing, 841. 
higher classes, 344. 
preponderance in Macao, 347. 
treaty with the United States, a copy of fur- 
nished to the Japanese commissioners, 408. 
imperial troops, conduct to American citizens, 

581. 
imperial troops, assaults on American mer- 
chants, Shanghai— English and American at- 
tack upon, 584. 
Chow-Hwang, his account of the origin of the Lew 

Chewans, 254. 
Christianity, its early introduction into Japan 
doubtful, 27. 
early introduction into Ceylon, 145. 
the common people of Lew Chew favorably dis- 
posed towards, 258. 
introduction of into Japan, 516. 
in Japan, 544. 
Chun-ching, castle of. Lew Chew, 211. 
Cleanliness of Lew Chew, 221. 
Cleopatra islands. Lew Chew, 377. 
Clergyman, treatment of a, in Japan, 516. 
Clifford (Lt.), forms the Lew Chew Naval Mission, 

258. 
Climate of St. Helena, 115. 

of Simoda, 478. 
Clipped camellia. Lew Chew, 201. 
Clock, Japanese, 69. 
Contee (Lt), 179. 
Coals, abundant in Japan, 76. 

supplies of, a prominent object of the Japanese 

expedition, 96, 98. 
opportune supply of, 188. 
depot at Singapore, 153. 
at Lew Chew, 330. 
at Bonin islands, 352. 

the United States desirous to procure, from Ja- 
pan, 298. 
building for storing, Lew Chew, 830. 
at Shah bay. Lew Chew, 361. 
Japan, 397, 407. 
at Simoda, 552. 
analysis of 553. 
supply of, from Formosa, 575. 
Cockes, Eichard, first director of the English feo- 

tory in Japan, 46. 
Cocoa nut in Ceylon, 141. 
Coffin (Capt.), visits the Bonin islands, 229. 
Coffin islands, 229, 283. 
Color printing, Japan, 528. 
Columbus examines Marco Polo's writings, 5. 
Columbus, visit of the, to Japan, 267. 
Commercial treaty, the Japanese decline making a, 

447. 
Compradors of European households in China, 840. 
Compton, the Sir H., of the Chinese imperial fleet, 
attack on an American pilot boat, 581. 
forced to make reparation, 582. 
Conference at Hakodadi, 503. 
Confucian temples, schools at, 256. 

writings, text books at Lew Chew, 257. 



608 



INDEX. 



Confucian writings, remark of the Bishop of Yictoria 

on, 258. 
Congress waters at Shanghai, 168. 
Constantia vineyards, visits to, 124. 
Consul, American, in Japan, 435, 447. 

date of appointment, 448. 
Consular fees of the United States often insufficient 

for support, 139, 
Consuls, American, In Japan, 439. 
Contee (Lt.), his MS. journal, iv. 

conference with the deputy governor of Uraga, 
273. 

conversation with the governor of Uraga, 306. 
Coolies at the Mauritius, 133. 

of Lew Chew commended, 190, 198, 202. 
Coopers, Hakodadi, 525. 

Copper abundant in Japan— mode of casting, 76. 
Coral in Napha harbor, Lew Chew, 178. 

reef, China sea, 156. 

reefs, 497. 

rock. Lew Chew, 361. 
Corpse, Japanese official inspection of a, 491. 
Costume of the sexes similar in Lew Chew, 182. 
Cotton weaving, Japan, 527. 

whipping, Hong Kong, 580. 
Courses of a Japanese entertainment, 218. 
Courteous deportment of Japanese officials, 282. 
Crows, precautions against, Simoda, 467. 
Crucifixion, Japanese punishment of, 558. 
Crumeno, a tree, Bonin islands, 240. 
Crustacea, Bonin islands, 232. 
Cultivator, an American, at the cape of Good Hope, 

124. 
Cumberland coal, analysis of, 553. 
Oum-sing-moon, China, 578. 

near Hong Kong, rendezvous of the squadron 
at, 337. 
Cunq-qua, or Khan, Lew Chew, 189, 197, 201. 
Cunning of mandarin of Kelung, 575. 

of the inhabitants, 575. 
Currency, the Lew Ohewans do not possess a, 260. 
Current at sea observed, 102. 

at the Cape of Good Hope, 127. 

between Lew Chew and Japan, 263. 

south east of Formosa, 358. 

near Hakodadi, 498. 
Currents, 113, 

near Japan, 317. 
Custom dues, Uraga, 279. 
Cutlery, Japanese, inferior, 526. 
Cyclone, near Mauritius, 136. 



Daguerreotypists of the expedition, 223. 

Dai-ho-saki, or "White Cape, 497. 

Dairi, or ecclesiastical emperor of Japan, 315. 

Dans Kevitch, a Japanese, 558. 

Dead, respect for the, in Lew Chew, 259. 

Death of a Chinese opium eater, 224. 

Decorations of the Treaty House, Japan, 401. 



Defences, military at Uraga, 277. 

Demons, boxes for feeding hungry, Simoda, 407. 

Dezima, factory at, 4. 

the residence of the Dutch in Japan, 8. 
described, 41, 
Diamond, cape, Simoda harbor, 480. 
Diana, the Eussian frigate at Simoda, 453. 
Diaz, discovery of the Cape of Good Hope, 122. 
Diet, Simoda, 464. 
Dinner to the regent of Lew Chew, on board the 

Susquehanna, 247. 
Dinners, Japanese, unsubstantial, 443. 
Disappointment island, position of, 244. 
Discipline of the expedition in Japan, 482. 
Disembowelment, practice of, among the Japanese, 

20. 
Dishes served up in Lew Chew, 218. * 

Divine service at sea, 224. 
Docks, Simoda, 467. 
Doeff, a writer on Japan, 4, 8. 

his intrigues against the English in Japan, -80. 
his treatment of the expeditions of Baffles, 54, 
56. 
Dogs, Peel island, poor hunters, 237. 
presented by the Japanese, 429. 
Japanese, 429. 
introduced in England, 429. 
Dogwood, tree resembling the. Peel island, 24]. 
" Dollar boats," "Whampoa, 159. 
Domestic animals running wild, Bonin islands, 233, 

241. 
Domestic life. Lew Chew, 196. 
Dosia, a preparation imparting flexibility to a corpse, 

also administered to the living, 71. 
Doty (Mr.), his letters respecting the treatment of 

Americans at Simoda, 454. 
Drainage, Japanese, 524. 
Drawings, Japanese, 529, 
Dress of dignitaries at Lew Chew, 248. 

of the Japanese, 460, 
Duer (Lt), observation of a meteor, bay of TJraga, 

271. 
Duggan (Prof.), remarks on Japanese art, 533. 
Dutch, intercourse of the, with Japan, 39, 445. 
extent of their knowledge of Japan, 8. 
expedition to Japan, W. A-dams' account of, 38. 
deny the authority of papal grants, 34. 
and English carry on joint buccaneering enter- 
prises, 34, 
aid the Japanese in making war on the native 

Chiistians, 38. 
removed to Dezima, 41. 
concessions to Japanese opinions, 41, 
do not trample on the cross, 42, 
officials formerly visited the Emperor of Japan, 

42. 
intercourse out of their factory with the Japa- 
nese, 42, 
induce Japanese to refuse intercourse with the 

English, 49. 
their foothold in India destroyed by Clive and 
Hastings, 50. 



INDEX. 



609 



rutch, answer to their claim to have assisted the Ja- 
panese expedition, 80, 85. 

in 1844 recommend Japan to abolish her ex- 
clusive system, 81. 

proposed treaty, 82. 

possession of St. Helena, 114. 

possession of Mauritius, 132. 

possessions in Ceylon, 140. 

treaty with Japan, 452. 

nostrum for sale in Japan, 468. 
Duyong, alleged mermaid qf Singapore, 155. 
Dwarf trees of the Japanese, 66. 



E 



Earthquake, Japan, 587. 

East India Company construct roads in St. Helena, 

115. 
Education in Japan, 73. 

of the Lew Chewans, Dr. Bettelheims evidence 
respecting, 256. 
Ehrenberg, his examination of the Harmattan, 112. 
Eldridge (J. C), purser, report on Japanese curren- 
cies, 548. 
Elephants of Ceylon, hunting, 143, 
"Elevated inclosure of fragrant festivities," Shui, 

Lew Chew, 217. 
Emperor of Japan, death of, 373. 

reception of his reply to the letter of the Presi- 
dent of the United States, 407. 
his official signature, 590. 
Endermo harbor, survey of, beauty of its shores, 

537. 
Engines, disconnecting, 128. 
English, intercourse of the, with Japan, 4, 44. 

deny the authority of papal grants of newly 

discovered countries, 34. 
trade with Japan at first unprofitable, 46. 
closed voluntarily in 1623, 43. 
attempts to reopen trade, 47. 
refused intercourse with the Japanese, 49. 
colonial policy hinders their progress in Japan, 

50. 
in 1808 send a man-of-war to Japan in pursuit 

of Dutch ships, 50. 
treaty with Japan, 80, 452. 
possession of Mauritius, 132. 
possessions in Ceylon, 133. 
temporary possession of the Bonin islands, 230. 
Japanese restrictions upon the, 448. 
ship encountered by the expedition, 563. 
Epitaphs, Simoda, 472. 

Escort of Com. Perry at TJraga, chosen by lot, 292. 
Espionage, official, in Japan, 16. 
effects of, 19. 
anecdotes of, 20. 
Ethiopian minstrels, Japanese interest in their per- 
formances, 533. 
Ethnological resemblances between Lew Chew and 

Japan, 256. 
European periodicals read and translated in Japan, 
531. 



Everett (Edward), his reply to Com. Perry, 108. 
Exchange, rate of, established with the Japanese, 

491. 
Exclusive policy of the Japanese, its origin, 23. 
Executioners in Japan, how selected, 18. 



Factories at Canton, 160. 

Fahs (Dr.), exploration of Peel island, 234. 

survey of Peel island, 239. 

report on the ethnology of Lew Chew, 366. 
Fans, Japanese, 312. 
Farm houses, near Simoda, 477. 
Fatsicio island, Japan, 316. 

Fatcisko (Tokushumo), Japanese interpreter, 281. 
Fees at "show places," 136. 
Feki, a prince, story of, 25. 
Female servants in China, 341. 
Ferns, Lew Chew, 363. 
Fertility of Peel island, 232, 236, 
Fi-ija, a stream in Lew Chew, 208. 
Filial reverence, the chief virtues in Lew Chew and 

China, 258. 
Fillmore (Millard), Ls Japanese diplomacy, 94 

letter of, to the emperor of Japan, 296. 

letter of credence of Com. Perry from the 
President of the United States, 301. 
Fine Arts, Lew Chew, 368. 

Fingoos, of the Cape of Good Hope, described, 125. 
Fir trees forced to an enormous size, 67. 
Firando, first factory of the Dutch at, 38. 
Firatatsi, cape, 494. 
Fire arms, astonishment of the Lew Chewans at the 

American, 207. 
Fischer, a writer on Japan, 4, 7. 

account of the ingenuity of a Japanese fisher- 
man, 69. 
Fish in Napha harbor, Lew Chew, 178. 

Japanese mode of presenting, 429. 

in Japanese waters, 522. 

a favorite gift, 523. 
Fishermen, Lew Chew, 251. 
Fishing boats, near Macao, 157. 

at Port Lloyd, Bonin islands, 232. 
Flora of Peel island, 240. 
Flowers, Lew Chew, 200. 

in graveyard, Simoda, 472. 
Fogo, indistinct view of. 111. 
Fogs off the Chinese coast, 166. 

common on the Japanese coast, 264, 288. 
Foot balls, Lew Chew, 369. 

Foote, C. E., the American schooner at Simoda, 453. 
Forcade (Father), remark of Siebold on, 91. 
Foreigners, Japanese jealousy of, 451. 
Forks, bamboo sticks used as, Lew Chew, 218. 
Formosa coal, analysis of, 553. 

expedition to, 565. 
Fortifications, Japanese, 463. 
Fortress of Nagaguska, Lew Chew, 195. 
Forts, Chinese, at the mouth of Canton river, 161. 

bay of Uraga, 272. 



39 



610 



INDEX. 



Fourtli of July, 1853, celebration of, by the expedi- 
tion, 264. 
Fox, Japanese ideas respecting the, 523. 
Francis (John W.), anecdote of Basil Hall, 369. 
Fraissinet, his opinion on Pinto's visit to Japan, 29. 

acquits the Dutch of persecuting the Japanese 
Christians, 39. 
Frederick, visit of the ship, to Japan, 49. 
Free negroes at the Cape of Good Hope, 126. 

at Mauritius, 133. 
French, intercourse of the, with Japan, 4. 

possession of the isle of France, or Mauritius, 
132. 

inhabitants of Mauritius, 134. 
Fryers (Lt.), a writer on hurricanes, 137. 
Fudsi-Jamma, a mountain of Japan, 9. 
Funchal, 103, 104. 
Funeral, American at Hakodadi, 543. 

of a marine, Japan, 411. 
Fusi the Great, a mountain, Japan, 265, 266. 

Mount, Japan, 316, 
Fusi-Yama, bay of Yedo, summit of, 378. 



Gale experienced by the expedition on entering 

Yedo, 378. 
Garden seeds distributed to settlers, Bonin islands, 

242. 
Geological features of Lew Chew, 361. 

formation of the Bonin islands, 232. 
Geology of Lew Chew, Kev. Mr. Jones' report on, 
210. 

of Peel island, 240. 
Gingerbread, tough, Shui, Lew Chew, 217. 
Giumaraes, Gov. of the Portuguese navy. Hong 

Kong, 348. 
Glass, manufacture of by the Japanese, 64. 
Glasson (Lt.), at Napha, 565. 
Glynn (Commander), enforces release of American 
seamen in Japan, 61. 

urges intercourse with Japan, 97. 

discovery of Olio-sima in 1846, 376. 
Gneiss, Lew Chew, 200. 
Goats, wild, numbers of on Stapleton island, Bo- 

nins, 241. 
Goble (Mr.), his interest in " Sam Patch," 557. 
Goebroken Eilander, 264. 

Gohei, an ornament of the Japanese temples, 24. 
Gokai or "five laws " of Buddhism, 26. 
Goku-zhen-zhi, a monastery, Simoda, 476. 
Gold abundant in Japan, 76. 
Golownin (Capt.), his account of Japan, 8. 

Ms visit to Japan, 59. 

says scurvy is prevalent in Yesso, 524. 
Gomera indistinctly seen, 109. 
Gordon (Capt.), of the British navy, visits Japan in 

1818, 56. 
Gori-Hama, village of Japan, 292. 
Government of Japan, 18. 

Gozeman, a book-keeper of the Dutch factory car- 
ried off by the English, 50. 



Gozeman released, 52. 

Grades, classification of the Lew Chewans into four 
251. 

of Lew Chewan population, 259. 
Granaries, Lew Chew, 364. 
Grand Port, Mauritius, 135. 

sea fight at, 129; 
Granite, Lew Chew, 203. 
Grass cloth robes worn by dignitaries at Napha, 248. 

jackets. Lew Chew, 209. 
Grasses, Peel island, 241. 
Graveyards, Simoda, 471. 

Hakodadi, 513. 
Green (Dr.), account of mineral water, Hakodadi, 

518. 
Green turtle, Bonin islands, 232. 
Guerin (N.), chart of Japanese seas, 562. 
Guest (Lt.), his course with Chinese vessel of war, 

the Sir H. Compton, 581. 
Guilds of Porters, Canton, 342. 

of beggars, 342. 
Gulf stream, analogy with the Kuro-Siwo, 496. 
Gutzlaf^ remark of Slebold on, 91. 



Hachiman, a Sintoo deified hero, 474. 

Sintoo temples, Hakodadi, 616. 
Hail Columbia at Shui, Lew Chew, 216. 
Hair, Lew Chew mode of wearing the, 256, 259. 
Hair pin, Lew Chew, 259. 

Hakodadi, opened to trade by the United States, 88, 
426. 

governor of, reply to Messrs. Heed and Dough- 
erty, 456. 

harbor of, 499. 

survey of, 502. 

negotiations respecting the reception of the ex- 
pedition at, 50. 

products of, 506. 

environs of, 506. 

stone quarries, resemblance to Gibraltar, 506. 

streets quiet and cleanly, 507. 

buildings, roofs, precaution against fire, fire en- 
gines, 508. 

walls, sliding partitions, shops, 509. 

fire engines, 508. 

internal decorations of houses, furniture, 509. 

stools, tables, cooking apparatus, tea and tea- 
cups, fuel, 510. 

kitchens, stoves, outhouses, gardens, fire-proof 
warehouses, 511. 

shops, commodities, signs, shopmen, fixed 
prices, Buddhist temples, 512. 

graveyard epitaphs, 513. 

prayer wheel, 514. 

Sintoo temples, roadside shrines, 515. 

defences of, 517. 

environs, observatory, telescope, 517. 

geology of mineral spring, cave, 518. 

vegetables, trees, trade, junks, 519. 

birds, animals, a depot for whalers, 528. 



INDEX. 



611 



Hakodadl, cattle, horses, roads, sedans, mountains, 
climate, fogs, 523. 

temperature, healthy climate, 524. 

ship yards, 526. 
Ha-koo-shoo, peasants. Lew Chew, 259. 
Hall (Capt. Basil), occupies a house at Lew Chew, 
183. 

erroneous statements of, 185. 

erroneous description of the Lew Chewans, 252. 

remark on the Lew Chewans to Napoleon Bo- 
naparte, 369. 

his remark on his account of Lew Chew, 369. 
Hampton (Mr.), taken sick during the exploration 

of Peel island, 238. 
Hansiro, a Japanese convert to Christianity, 24. 
Hara-kiri, or disembowelment, 246. 
Harmattan, a wind passing over Africa, 112. 

its alleged effects, 12. 
Harris, purser, his MS. journal, iv. 
Hatchee-Matchee, or red cap. Lew Chew, 216, 247. 
Hayashi-daigaku-nokami, Prince of Daigaku, Japan, 
390. 

letter of to Com. Perry, 393. 

Japanese commissioner, 403. 

of Japanese presents by, 428, 

at the dinner given by Com. Perry, 437. 

enjoys Negro minstrelsy, 438. 
Haze, noticed at sea. 111. 
Hed-do, harbor of, Japan, 588. 
Heine (Mr.), artist of the expedition, 172. 

sketches Pino, 191. 
Heraldic devices of the Japanese emperor and com- 
missioners, 406. 
Hide-yosi, or Fide-oosi, his history, 14. 
Higher classes in China, 344. 
Hindoo idolatry in Lew Chew, 365. 
Hirakana, Japanese, 257. 
Hog lane. Canton, 161. 
Honesty, a conventional virtue with the Chinese, 

344. 
Hongo, near Simoda, 477. 
Hongs at Canton, 160. 
Hong Kong, 158. 

Horsburg, remark on the action of the barometer 
in the Indian ocean, 128. 

remark on tides in the tropics, 156. 

mention of Sillibaboo island, 579. 
" Horse, the points of a," Japanese drawings of, 528. 
Horses, humane treatment of, at Singapore, 154. 

of Lew Chew, 182, 220. 

Japanese, 294 
Horticulture of the Japanese, 66. 
Hospitality at English colonial settlements to 

United States officers, 134. 

of foreign merchants in the east, 161. 
Host, incident of disrespect to the, at Macao, 348. 
Hot water drunk in Lew Chew, 204. 
House at Lew Chew refused to the expedition, 183. 
House court yards, Simoda, 468. 
Houses, construction of, Uraga, 276. 

at Simoda, 468. 

interior arrangements o^ Simoda, 468. 



Houses, number of^ Simoda, 469. 
uniformity of in Japan, 525. 
Howland & Aspinwall, acknowledgment of their 

services by Com. Perry, 138. 
Hue (M.), account of the Portuguese settlement at 
Macao, 164. 
travels in China, 345. 
description of a praying machine, 515. 
Humboldt (Baron), remark on Teneriffe, 109. 
Hurricanes at the Mauritius, 129, 136. 
Huts of natives, Lew Chew, 193. 
Hydrographic survey of the harbor of Lew Chew, 
186. 
report on the Bay of Uraga, 277. 



Ichirazichi, coft interpreter. Lew Chew, 219, 247. 
Ido-Iwami-no-Kioai (Prince -sf Iwami), Japanese 

Commissioner, 404. 
Ido (Prince of Tsusima), Japanese Commissioner, 

404. 
Idzu, or Negatsuo Cape, Japan, 264. 
Ingenuity of the Japanese, 70. 
Inodzu-gama, the river, Japan, 477. 
Inquisition at Macao, 346. 
Internal trade of the Japanese, 67. 
Interpreter, court. Lew Chew, 219. 
Iron in Japan, 76. 
Irrigation, Lew Chew, 252, 362. 
Ishirashi, bridge of, Lew Chew, 328. 
Ishee, or Lingam, Lew Chew, 196. 
Isitza, Lew Chew, 199. 
Isomuru, Japan, 497. 
Itchaboo, a Japanese coin, 505. 
lyeyas, his history, 15. 

his letter to the King of England, 45. 



Jamestown, St. Helena, 165. 
anchorage at, 117. 

Jamieson, Commander of the English ship Bom- 
bay, 579. 

Japan, derivation of the name — its extent — divi- 
sions, 7 ; objects of curiosity relating to, 3 ; 
writers on, 4; physical aspect of, 7; rivers — 
roads— bridges— canals— climate, 9 ; colonized 
by the Chinese, 10 ; duplicate sovereignty of, 
13 ; its political subdivisions, 17 ; its Council 
of State, 18 ; its Governor of the Empire, 19 ; 
introduction of Christianity into, 27; visited 
by Pinto, 28; Portuguese intercourse with, 
30; missions, 30; letter of Emperor to the 
King of England, 45 ; progress of industrial 
arts in metal works, 63 ; silver, copper, quick- 
silver, lead, tin, iron, coal, sulphur, precious 
stones, pearls, found in, 76; Eussian Expedi- 
tion to, in 1S53, 79; Admiral Stirling con- 
cludes a treaty with, 69; treaty between and 
other nations proposed by the Dutch, 82 ; sup- 
posed laws regulating etiquette on the death 
of an Emperor, 374; an American sailor cap- 



C12 



INDEX 



tive in, 396 ; coal abundant in, 897 ; polygamy 
unknown in, 462. 
Japanese people, origin of, 10 ; language not under- 
stood by the Chinese, 10 ; alphabet, or sylla- 
barium, dialects, construction of languages, 
pronunciation, Keempfer's theory of their 
origin, 11; language, its analogies to other 
languages, color of the, of rank resemble Euro- 
peans in color, 12 ; resemblance to the Tartar 
family, 12 ; their claims to antiquity as a na- 
tion, 13 ; hereditary rank among the, priests, 
rank of merchants, peasantry, leather manu- 
facturers, executioners, 17 ; government sec- 
retaries, official espionage among the, 19; 
disembowelment, 20; reason of their un- 
changeable customs, interdiction of inter- 
course with Europeans, falsehood among offi- 
cials a result of their system, 21 ; not com- 
mon to the people in general, 22 ; severity of 
their laws, mode of trial, prison?, 23 ; religion 
known as Sintoo — religion, difficulty of ob- 
taining information respecting, 19 ; liberal in 
their religious views, number of sects among, 
refusal to banish Jesuits and monks, 27 ; pro- 
clamation expelling the Portuguese, 33; 
their reception of the Dutch, 35 ; extirpate 
the native Christians, 39; officials dealing 
with the Dutch required to trample on the 
cross, 41; intercourse with the English, li- 
cense to the East India Company, 43 ; inter- 
course with Eussia, 56; refuse to take back 
their sailors shipwrecked on the Eussian 
coast, 57 ; decline the overtures of Eesanoff, 
58 ; officials, conversation with the leaders of 
the English Expedition to that country in 
1673, 47 ; refuse intercourse with the English, 
49 ; imprison Golonin, 59 ; intercourse with the 
United States— refuse to take back their sail- 
ors shipwrecked on the United States coast, 
treatment of the ships Morrison, Yincennes 
and Preble, 60 ; refuse trade with any nation 
but Holland — imprison United States sea- 
men, 61; tabular view of the attempts at 
intercourse with the, 62 ; their skill in lac- 
quered woodwork and carving, 63; manu- 
facture of glass, porcelain, paper, 64; woven 
fabrics and leather by— shoes of straw, 65 ; 
agriculture, live stock; horticulture, 66; 
dwarfed trees, 67; cultivation, Lew Chew, 
191 ; marine navigation, vessel's compass, 67 ; 
their scientific knowledge, clock, 68; inge- 
nuity, mermaids, 69; knowledge of medicine, 
post morimfi examination not permitted, 
medical works, 71; Dosia, 72; their astro- 
nomical knowledge, similar to that of the 
Muiscas ofUogota, 73 ; colleges, schools, books, 
music, 74; drawing, painting, wood engrav- 
ing, bas-reliefs, architecture, syakfdo, or ena- 
mel, 75; mineral wealth, 76; cedars, cam- 
phor tree, 77; conduct to be observed to- 
wards the, by the Expedition, 173; embassy 
at Lew Chew, 177; junks, 177; official. Lew 
Chew conversation with, 183; possess fire- 



arms, spies, 185; guides. Lew Chew, 187; 
cultivation. Lew Chew, 188; discovery of the 
Bonin Islands, 225 ; account of the Bonin Is- 
lands, 226; junk driven into Port Lloyd, 
228 ; wrecked on Stapleton Island, survivors 
taken off by a French ship, wreck seen by 
officers of the Susquehanna, 229 ; garrison a1 
Napha, Lew Chew, 254; officials, conjectured 
at — inform Com. Perry that they claim juris- 
diction over Lew Chew, 255; Expedition 
makes the first full exploration of the coast 
of the northern Lew Chew Islands, 263 ; at 
Tedo, admiration of the Susquehanna by the, 
265; coasting vessels, bay of Yedo, 266; 
guard boats, crews, oars, flags, 267 ; forts, 272, 
275; diplomacy, 274; soldiers, Uraga — de- 
fences, Uraga, 275; junks, Uraga, 277; at- 
tempt to interrupt the survey of the bay of 
Uraga, 278; fond of whiskey and brandy, 
their geographical knowledge, 286; officials, 
their inspection of the Susquehanna, swords, 
287; internal trade, activity of, 288; official 
etiquette, 290 ; preparations for the reception 
of the letter of the President of the United 
States, 291 ; standards, 292 ; official uniform, 
293 ; screens of painted cloth, 292 ; oarsmen, 
dexterity of, 293 ; army, appearance of the — 
horses, 294; cannon — uniform, 295; conces- 
sion of the, in the reception of the letter of 
the President at Uraga, 305 ; friendly inter- 
course with Americans of the squadron, 310 ; 
intercourse with forbidden by Japanese offi- 
cials, 311 ; officials carry away remnants of a 
collection in their sleeves, 310; lacquered 
ware, silks, fans, pipes, 312; curiosity re- 
specting steam vessels, 315; comparison of the 
with the Lew Chewans, black beards of the, 
365 ; vocabulary compared with that of Lew 
Chew, 366; harbors, provision for securing 
vessels — charts, slight value of — mode of na- 
vigation, 378; courtesy and scrupulous ho- 
nesty, instance of— offers of assistance to the 
Macedonian, 379; officials prevented from 
boarding the American ships, 380; officials 
received by Capt. Adams, 381 ; officials change 
the place of delivery of Emperor's letter, 382 ; 
commissioners endeavor to prevent a survey 
of the Bay of Yedo, 384 ; officials, frequent 
visits of the, return naval buttons, urge re- 
moval of the American squadron to Uraga — 
officials, offer supplies as presents, 385; eti- 
quette respecting presents, 386; officials re- 
fuse to receive Com. Perry except at Kama- 
kura, or Uraga, 387 ; officials treat invitation 
to "bring their ladies with them" to the ce- 
lebration of Washington's birthday as a joke, 
388 ; boats steady in a rough sea — curiosity 
respecting the Americans — present remnants 
of feasts to their guests, 391 ; intercourse with 
Americans, crew rescued by an Americau 
merchantman, 896; ambassadors, credentials 
of, 897; winter— boatmen, rugged health of, 
398; batteries, Bay of Yedo, 400; commis- 



INDEX 



613 



sioners, arrival of at Yoku-hama, 402 ; their 
personal appearance, 404; deference to rank, 
mode of obeisance — interpretep, 405; reply 
to the letter of the President of the United 
States, 407 ; drinking custom, respect for the 
dead, 411 ; interest in the American railroad 
and telegraph, 416, 433 ; curiositj- respecting 
American dress, taste for pictures, for sketch- 
ing, intercourse with the American squadron, 
taking notes, 417 ; non-communicative, com- 
mon people more disposed than the officials 
to have intercourse with the Americans, imi- 
tative like the Chinese, 418 ; commissioners, 
note of the, to Com. Perry, 420 ; report of 
conference relative to the treaty with the 
United States, 425; neatness, 428; wrestlers, 
430 ; presents to the United States placed in 
the store ship Supply, 434; officials, convi- 
viality of, at the dinner given by Com. Perry, 
437 ; officials carry away fragments of a feast, 
437; entertainment in honor of the treaty, 
dinners unsubstantial, 443; commissioners, 
notes of their conferences with Com. Perry, 
447; unlike the Chinese, 450; qualifications 
of the treaty, 450 ; jealousy of foreigners, 451 ; 
treaty with Russia, 452; treaty with Eng- 
land, 452 ; treaty with the Dutch, 452 ; curi- 
osity respecting American women, treatment 
of Americans and Eussians at Simoda, 453; 
proclamation to the Americans at Simoda, 
455 ; tooth dye— women, 460 ; women rouge 
their lips, 460 ; women work in the fields, 
dress, baby, common people, courtesy of the 
common people, 461; women good-looking, 
women, social position of, 462; policy to- 
wards the Expedition, 463; stone dressing, 
boat-building yards, 465 ; buildings unpaint- 
ed, 474; inclined to intercourse with the 
members of the Expedition, restrained by 
their officials, 483 ; scholars, 400 ; request to 
sail with the Expedition, 486 ; confined in a 
cage, 488 ; official inspection of a corpse, 491 ; 
officials, insult to American officers, 492 ; apo- 
logy for, 493; boat, Hakodadi, 502; vessels. 
Com. Perry's account of, 520; navigation, 
boats, sculling, rowing, ship models, 521 ; 
tools, war junks, fisheries, 522; ideas of the 
fox, of demoniacal influence, caMnets d'ai- 
somce, public, cattle, horses, roads, sedans 
523 ; drainage, 524 ; dexterity in the mecha- 
nical arts, curiosity respecting neat work- 
manship, houses, carpentry, masonry, - stone 
cutting, coopers, barrels, 525; steel, swords, 
cutlery, razors, blacksmiths, bellows, 526; 
cotton fabrics, silks, lacquered wares, porce- 
lain, art, 527 ; spectacles, drawings, drawings 
of steam engine, screen painter, 52S ; prince, 
529; sculpture, 530; architecture, books, 
knowledge of European periodicals, of Ame- 
rica, 531 ; curiosity, 532 ; chess, cards, game 
of loto, 532, 533 ; official uniform, 536 ; respect 
to the dead, 537; officials, their interest in 
the armament of the expedition, 589; embas- 



sy respecting boundaries at Hokodadi, official 
communication, 542; respect for the dead, 
544; cun-encies, exchange of, 548; commis- 
sion, Simoda, 546 ; knowledge of European 
affairs, 547; coal, 552; mining, pretend to be 
ignorant of coal, 554; piices, accounts, 555; 
dogs sent to the President of the United 
States, 556 ; in the United Statesi, 557 ; capi- 
tal punishments, 558; treaty with Eussia, 
shipwrecked seamen, energy, 588; friendli- 
ness to Americans, anxious for trade, for 
English books, 589; send away religious 
tracts, technicalities respecting ratifications, 
590.— xSee Hakodadi and Simoda. 
Jesuits endeavor to destroy the Dutch visitors to 

Japan, 36. 
Jewels in Japan, 76. 
Johnson (Charles), visits to the Bonin islands, 230. 

an early settler of the Bonin islands, 354. 
Jones (Lt), report of volcanic phenomena at sea, 

576. 
Jones (Eev. Mr.), his MS. journal, iv. 

observations of the zodiacal lights, 114. 

zodiacal observations, 157. 

sketches, a plan of the fortress of Nagaguska, 

195. 
report on geology of Lew Chew, 210. 
conducts an exploration of the interior of Lew 

Chew, 361. 
reads the burial service in Japan, 412. 
views on the introduction of Christianity into 

Japan, 516. 
observations on Japanese paintings, 529. 
applies for directions respecting funeral ser- 
vices, 544. 
conversation with Japanese on prayer, 545. 
exploration for coal at Formosa, 575. 
Journal kept by the Peching of the exploration of 

Lew Chew, 201. 
Journals, MS., of the expedition, iii. 

officers of the expedition Invited by Com. Per- 
ry to prepare, 110. 
promotion of the publication o:^ by members of 
the expedition. 111. 
"Judge" (the). Peel island, 256. 
Jungle weed, Peel island, 241. 
Junks, Japanese, 177, 267, 279. 

large number of in the bay of Uraga, 288. 



Ka-ei-silsi-neu, letter of, 897. 
Ksempfer, 8. 

a writer on Japan, 4. 

his theory of the derivation of the Japanese, 11, 

remark on profits of Portuguese commerce 
with Japan, 31. 

agency of the Dutch against Japanese Chris- 
tians, 39. 

concessions of the Dutch in religious obser 
vances, 40. 

remark on the population of Japan, 67. 

account of Japanese minerals, 75. 



6U 



INDEX. 



account of the Bonin islands, 227. 

account of Japanese vessels, 520. 
Ka-goo, or Lew Chew chair, 195, 205, 360, 523. 
Kakekigo, a general, story of, 26. 
Kaki-zaki, Simoda, 476. 
Kama-kura, Japan, 382. 
Kami, divinities of, 26. 
Kami nu si, or priests of the temple, 26. 

origin of, 26. 
Kanagawa, bay of, Yedo, 311, 402. 
Kanaka, inhabitants of the Bonin islands, 205. 
Kangsayu, Matsmai, interview with Com. Perry, 

534. 
Kantosits, chronicles, accuracy of the, 329. 
Kelly, harbor master at Port Louis, 129. 
Kelly (Commander), of the Plymouth, forces the 
Sir H. Compton to salute the American flag, 
attacks Chinese intrenchments at Shanghai, 
582. 
Kelung, Formosa, 574. 

survey of the harbor, 577. 

mandarin of, 574. 
Keppel (Capt.), British navy, rescue of an English- 
man from justice at Macao, 349. 
Kettal, tree of Ceylon, 142. 
Kikai-sima, or Bungalow island, survey of, 562. 
Kindaka, Lew Chew, 331. 
King (0. W.), account of the visit of the Morrison 

to Japan, 60. 
King, Cape, near the Gulf of Tedo, 494. 
Kings of the Central, Southern and Northern Hills 

Lew Chew, 253. 
Kingfisher described, 172. 
Kiu-siu, an island of Japan, 7. 

color of the inhabitants of the coast of, 12. 
Kiyemon, a Japanese fisherman, raises a sunken 

vessel, 70. 
E^aproth, comparison of the Japanese with other 
languages, 12. 

translation of a Japanese account of the Bonin 
islands, 227. 

account of the sovereignty of Lew Chew, 254. 
Kockebecker, a Dutch director, aids the Japanese 

against the native Christians, 39. 
Komaga-daki, near Hakodadi, 499. 
Konazaki, bay of Tedo, 311. 
Kono-zhi, a Buddhist temple, Hakodadi, 513. 
Koyanagi, a Japanese wrestler, 431. 
Koye. the Chinese dialect of Japan, 10. 
Kuan-tong, 160. 

Kung-Kwas, no schools in the, 256. 
Kura-kawa-Kahie, a Japanese official, 381. 

visits the American squadron, 412. 

frequent visits to the expedition, 418. 
Kuriles, Hairy, 524. 
Kurosaki, cape, 497. 
Kuro-siwo, a current, Lt. Bent's report on, 495. 



Laboring classes of China, 344. 

class, Lew Chew, 252. 
Lacquered ware, Japanese, 63, 312, 428, 527. 



Lampacayo, Portuguese merchants of, settle Ma- 
cao, 164. 
Land, tenure of, Lew Chew, 362. 

held by the government. Lew Chew, 252. 
Land crabs, Peel island, 235. 
Language of Lew Chew, 257. 
Latham (Dr.), remarks on the origin of the Ja 

panese, 13. 
Laxman, a Eussian officer, his visit to Japan, 57. 
Lead in Japan, 76. 

Leather manufacturers, treatment of in Japan, 17. 
Lennox, Lt. of the garrison at Point de Galle, his 

elephant hunting, 143. 
Letter of credence of the Emperor of Japan to Toda, 
Prince of Idzu, 288. 

the President of the U. S., 296. 

delivery of to the Japanese Commissioners, 302. 
Lew Chew islands. Com. Perry proposes the occu- 
pation of the ports of the, 106. 

acceded to by the United States, 108. 

visit to, 175. 

officers startled by report of a cannon, 179. 

exploration of, 182. 

view from the summit ridge of the island, 190. 

exploration of by a gentleman attached to the 
Saratoga, 249. 

origin of the population of, 253. 

sovereignty of, 254. 

their statements of Japanese garrison at, 254. 

trade confined to Japan, 255. 

pay tribute to China, 255. 

imitation of the Chinese in, 256. 

authorities endeavor to drive Dr. Bettelheim 
from the island, 258. 

naval mission, 258. 

agricultural products, live stock and fertility ofi 
260. 

condition of the laboring classes in, 260. 

a portion of the coast unvisited, 263. 

its northern islands first fully explored by the 
Japan expedition, 262. 

regent of, letter to Com. Perry, 326. 

Com. Perry's fourth visit to, 359. 

exploration of the interior of, 361. 

its soil, climate, temperature, salubrity, tennre 
of land, agriculture, irrigation, 362. 

products, 363. 

sugar mills, 364. 

granaries, rats, population, origin, comparison 
with the Japanese, 365. 

vocabulary compared with that of Japan, 366. 

commerce of Sakee, fine aits, architecture, 
dwellings, furniture, food, 368, 

amusements, football, unarmed, government, 
369. 

youth of, sent to China for education, 370. 

espionage, literature, religion, Bowses, burial 
customs, 370 ; fabrics, spies, 371. 

contemplated " surveillance " of, by the Ameri- 
can expedition, 375. 

islands, northern group of, 376. 

Japanese control over, 424 

trial at, 568. 



INDEX 



615 



New Tear compliments, 569. 
treaty with the United States, 570. 
Che wan, a, desires to join the American squad- 
ron, 572. 
Lew Chewans induced to accept pay for provisions, 
223. 
inexpert in the use of knives and forks, 248. 
appreciation of an European dinner, 248. 
grades among, 251. 
terror of spies, 251. 
their personal appearance, 256. 
black beards of the, 366. 

good figures, courtesy, bearing, 367 ; commerce, 
368. 
Licentiousness of Japanese towns, 462. 

of Japanese, 469. 
Lieou Kieou, or Lew Chew, 174. 
Light house, Board of the United States, remark 

QT^ 130. 
Lignite, Lew Chew, 197. 
Lingam, Lew Chew, 196. 
Literary men. Lew Chew, 251. 
Literati of Lew Chew wear gold and silver hair 

pins, 259. 
Literature in Japan, 73. 
Live stock in Japan, 66. 

Lodges, arrangements respecting, Simoda, 468. 
Leather, manufacture and use of by the Japanese, 

65. 
Lee (Commander), services to the Macedonian 

aground in the bay of Yedo, 379. 
Left hand, the Japanese place of honor, 389. 
Leite (Lieut), attack on at Macao, 349. 
Lemons, Peel island, 237. 
Longwood St. Helena, visited, 115. 
Loo rock, anchorage at the, 103. 
Loom, Lew Chew, 197, 251. 
Lorchas, Macao, Portuguese boats, 346. 
Loreiro (Capt.), of the Portuguese Navy, Hong 

Kong, 348. 
Loto, Japanese game of, 532. 

Lutke (Capt.), of Kussian Navy, takes possession of 
the Bonin islands, 230. 



M 



MacFarlane, remark on Japanese deception, 22. 

on the Sintoo worship, 24. 
McLane (R. M.), U. S. Commissioner to China, 351. 
McLeod, Capt. of the Alceste, inaccurate account 

of the Lew Chewans, 253. 
Macao, visit to, 163. 

salubrity of, 338. 

population of, 345. 
Mascarenhas, discovers Mauritius, 131. 
Macedonian, the, run aground in the bay of Yedo, 

379. 
Machinatoo, Lew Chew, 209. 
Madeira, coast of| 103. 
Mahommedans in Ceylon, 144. 
Mail routes from England and the United States to 
China, letter of Com. Perry on, 243. 



Malabars of Ceylon, 144. 

Malacca, straits of, passage through, 147. 

Malaria, burning wood a defence against, 339. 

Malay race, extent of, 155. 

Mimasaki, prince of, receives the American presents 

to the Japanese, 432. 
Man milliner, China, much esteemed by American 

residents, 342. 
Mandarin, Japanese, enjoying a railroad ride, 416. 

dialect understood by the educated classes in 

Japan, 10. 
Mangusteen, fruit of the, Singapore, 153. 
March (J. H.), his hospitality, 104. 
Marco Paulo, his account of Zipangu, 5. 

account of, 6, 

visits Ceylon, 140. 
Marine volcano, near Formosa, 576. 
" Mariners' temple," Simoda, 475. 
Market, Lew Chew, 330. 
Marquesas, native of the, at Peel island, 286. 
Marshall, Humphrey, his intercourse with the expe- 
dition, 171. 
Marshes unknown in Lew Chew, 362. 
Mats used as floor cloths and beds at Lew Che ff, 

250. 
Matsmai, a port of Yesso, 8. 

incident in the history of, 20. 

discussion relative to opening the port of, 424. 

road to, 506. 
Matsusaki Michitaro, Japanese commissioner, 405. 

his conviviality, 437. 

friendly in his cups, 438. 
Matzaimon, Yendo, governor of Hakodadi, 502. 
Matzouri, a religious festival, Simoda, 474. 
Mauritius, visit to, 129. 

Maury (M. P.), observations on the Gulf stream, 496. 
Maury (Lt.), survey of the bay of Yedo by, 384. 
Mazara (Mattheo), visits the Bonin islands, 230. 

an early colonist of the Bonin islands, 353. 
Meac-sima, island of, 48L 
Medical knowledge of the Japanese, 71. 
Men, the drones of Lew Chew, 250. 
Merchandise, a term not understood in Japan, 451. 
Merchants, rank of in Japan, 17. 
Mermaid-manufacture in Japan, 69. 
Metal workers, Hakodadi, 526. 
Metals found in Japan, 63. 

wrought by the Japanese, 66. 
Meteor, bay of Uraga, 271. 
Meylan, 8. 

description of a Japanese clock, 69. 

on the Japanese religion, 24. 

speaks of a fourth Japanese religion, 27. 
Mia, or Sintoo temples, Hakodadi, 515. 

Simoda, 470, 473. 
Miako, the chief seat of learning in Japan, 73. 
Mijako-sima, Lew Chew, 377. 
Mikados, the founder of the, 13. 

mode of government, 14, 16. 

history of the dynasty, 13. 
Mildtchamp (Eichard), visits the Bonin islands, 230. 
Milllchamp, an early colonist of the Bonin islands, 

353. 



613 



INDEX 



Mills, Lew Chew, 364. 

Mima-saki, prince of. Japanese commissioner, 404 

Minerals of Japan, 76. 

Ming dynasty, China, 254, 

Missikiya, Lew Chew, 198. 

Missionary station, our American colony at Port 

Lloyd would form a desirable, 244. 
Missionaries at Lew Chew, 258. 

in China, their observations, 345. 
Mississippi, the, her good conduct at sea, 102. 
Malva, Lew Chew, 194. 
Monasteries, Buddhist, Simoda, 470. 
Money value of foreign coins understood in Lew 

Chew, 185. 
Monsoons at Ceylon, 141. 
Montravel (M. de), French commodore at Canton, 

347. 
Mooring vessels, mode of at Port Louis, Mauritius, 

129. 
Moreton (Eev. Mr.), succeeds Dr. Bettelheim at 

Lew Chew, 572. 
Moro, a Portuguese, plots against the Japanese, 32. 
Mosquitoes annoying at Lew Chew, 192. 
Moustache, worn in Lew Chew and Japan, 366. 
Music, in Japan, 74. 
Muster, or Chinese pattern, 342. 
Mjjako-sima islands. Lew Chew, 377. 



N 



N'agagusko fortress, Lew Chew, 253. 
Nagasaki, 4, 9. 

first occupied by the Portuguese, 4 

Japanese endeavor to restrict American com- 
merce to, 424. 
Nagazima (Saboroske), vice governor of TJraga, 269. 

appearance of in his state dress, 293. 
Napha, Lew Chew, 179. 

visit to, 181. 

mayor of, visits the expedition, 179. 

the mayor of invites Com. Perry to a feast, 213. 

return to, 246, 320. 

new regent of, 246. 

school at, 256. 

interview of Com. Adams with the mayor of, 
823. 

view of Napha, 328, 

difl&culties with the inhabitants o^ 565. 
Napoleon at St. Helena, 115. 

conduct of England to, 116. 

tomb of, 116. 
Navigation of the Japanese by sea, inland, 68. 

of the Chinese coast, 166. 

of the Japanese close in shore, 520. 
Navy of the United States backwards in adopting 

improvements in steam vessels, 128. 
Megatsus, or Idsu, cape, Japan, 264. 
Negro guards of Com. Perry, 295. 
New Year congratulatory phrases, Lew Chew, 568. 
N'ight signals of the expedition, picturesque effect 

of, 224. 
Nippon, a work on Japan, by Siebold, 4 



Nippon, volcanoes o^ 9. 

the modern Zipanga, 5. 

Dai, Japanese name of Japan, 7. 

an island of Japan, 7. 
Novaleches, (Marquis of), governor of the Philip- 

pine island, 577. 
Ny-komma, Lew Chew, 203. 



Oars, Japanese, management of, 280. 
Observatory, Japanese, 517. 

O'Callaghan (Capt.), of British navy, attack on Chi- 
nese intrenchments, Shanghai, 584 
Officers of state. Lew Chew, 251. 

of the Expedition requested to keep journals, 
111. 
Oho-sima, 263, 265, ?16, 481, 494 

discovery of, 376. 

Com. Perry's visit to, 484 

visit to, 563. 
Oki-nawa-sima, or Great Lew Chew, 37T. 
Olason island, Endermo harbor, 537. 
Oo-bang, public slaves. Lew Chew, 25i 
Opium eater, death of a Chinese, 224 
Orsa, a Japanese village, 312. 

Osaca, Japan, destruction of, by an earthquake, 510. 
Otaheitan at Peel island, 236. 
Otsu, village of, bay of Tedo, 381. 
Overfalls, Simoda harbor, 477. 
Owari, the prince of, his history, 14 
Oxen used in drawing carriages in Funehal, 105, 

at the Cape of Good Hope, 125. 
Oysters, presented by the Japanese to Coni. Perry, 
387. 



Pacific mail routes, 243. 
Palace, Shui, Lew Chew, 217. 
Palisades in front of Tedo, 463. 
Palma latina. Peel island, 237. 
Palmer (Aaron H.), an early advocate for an expe- 
dition to Japan, 98. 
Palms, Peel island, 241. 
Palmyra palm in Ceylon, 142. 
Panama, isthmus of, interoceanic communication 

at the, known to the Japanese, 286. 
Pandanus, Peel island, 237. 

Lew Chew, 199. 
Paper, manufacture of by the Japanese, 64 

burnt by the Lew Chewans, 211. 
Paps, the, mountains on the Bonin islands, 240. 
Parasitic plants, thick growth of. Peel island, 235. 
Parker (Dr.), Canton, 341. 
Patriarchal authority the basis of the government 

of Lew Chew, 257. 
Paul and Virginia, foundation of the story of, 185. 
Pavement, Lew Chew, 211. 
Payment made for supplies. Lew Chew, 223. 
Peacock, visit of the, to Siam, 146. 
Pearl fishery of Ceylon, 142. 



INDEX 



617 



Pearls fonnd in Japan, 76. 
Peasantry of Lew Chew, 221. 

rank of, in Japan, 17. 
Pe-ching, or Lew Cbew guide, 192. 
the, escorts Com. Perry, 216. 
or guide. Lew Chew, keeps a journal, 201. 
presents to the, 222. 
Peel island, 225. 

European settlers at, 233. 
colony of, Bonins, 332. 
Pellew (Capt.), Japanese remarks on, 448. 

visit to Japan, 559. 
I Perry (Com. M. C), wishes in regard to this publi- 
^ cation, his MS. journals, iii; his revision of 

the narrative, v; attestation, vii; declines 
admitting Russian ships in the American 
squadron, 79; avoided intercourse with the 
Dutch in Japan, 88; declines giving Siebold 
a place in the expedition, 89 ; never saw Sie- 
bold's letter of advice, 92 ; expresses the wish 
to the Japanese commissioners that other na- 
tions should share in the benefits of the 
treaty, 94 ; first to formally propose an expe- 
dition to Japan, 97; aids in the adjustment 
of the fishery question, 99 ; declines applica- 
tions from at home and abroad for situations 
in the expedition, 99 ; departure from Anna- 
polis, 100; letter written at Madeira to the 
Secretary of the Navy, 105 ; his view of the 
object of the expedition, 106 ; order forbid- 
ding the transmission home of journals, 110 ; 
requests officers to prepare journals, 110; 
shows how St. Helena could be attacked, 118 ; 
economy in the use of coal, 120 ; visits a Con- 
stantia vineyard, 124; remark on treatment 
of savage aborigines, 125; visits a captive 
chief at Cape of Good Hope, 125; opinion as 
to the best course from the Cape to Mauritius, 
127; hospitality extended to, at Mauritius, 
1S4 ; letter of, to Phar-Pen-Clow-Chow-Yon- 
Hon, a prince of Siam, 146 ; endeavors to open 
communication with Siam, 146; visits a 
Chinese temple at Singapore, 151 ; remark on 
hospitalities of foreign nations, and "table 
money," 158 ; remark on Canton river, 159 ; 
disappointed at the appearance of the city, 
160; hospitable treatment of, at Canton, 160; 
opinion of Shanghai as a naval depot, 167 ; 
his views on the revolution in China, 
170 ; admits Bayard Taylor in the expedition, 
175 ; receives a Chin-chin at Lew Chew, vi- 
sited by Mr. Bettelheim at Whang-cha-ching, 
177; directs an exploration of Lew Chew, 
178 ; receives the Mayor of Lew Chew, 179 ; 
announces an intention to return the visit, 
180 ; directs a sick officer to occupy a house 
at Tumai, 1S3; letter of Shangey-ta-mu to, 
184; declines invitation of the Mayor of Lew 
Chew, 213; receives banquet sent on board 
ship, refuses to abandon his visit to Shui, 214 ; 
his progress to Shui, 215 ; curiosity of the Lew 
Chewans to witness, with his escort, 216: his 
Interview with the regent of Lew Chew, 217; 



healths proposed by, at Shui, 219 ; remark on 
the cleanliness of Lew Chew, happy eflPectt 
of his determination, reliance of the Japanese 
on, 221, remark on acceptance of payment by 
the Lew Chewans, sends presents to the 
Queen, regent, and other dignitaries at Lew 
Chew, 222 ; attends a burial at sea, 224 ; ob- 
servations of the anchorage of Port Lloyd 
harbor, 232; leaves live stock on Peel and 
North islands, Bonin island, 233; orders an 
exploration of Peel island, 234 ; orders an ex- 
ploration of Stapleton island, Bonins, recom- 
mends Peel Island as a stopping place for 
steam vessels between California and China, 
241 ; distributes garden seeds to settlers, Bo- 
nin islands, purchases land for a landing place 
and coal depot — letter of, to the Navy De- 
partment on steam navigation and mail routes 
in the Pacific, 242 ; remark on the commer- 
cial importance of Shanghai, note on the ad- 
vantages of establishing a naval station at the 
Bonin islands, 243; proposes the establish- 
ment of an American colony at Port Lloyd, 
Bonin islands, 244; determines the position 
of Disappointment island, 245 ; dinner to the 
new regent of Lew Chew on board of the 
Susquehanna, 247; presents garden seeds to 
the regent of Lew Chew, entertains him 
with the music of the band, 249 ; classifies 
the Lew Chewans in four grades, 251; re- 
mark on the misery of the Mexican peers, on 
the lower classes of the Lew Chewans, 251 ; 
remark on the investigations of Hull, Mc- 
Leod, Beechey, Belcher, and the Japanese 
expedition, respecting the origin of the Lew 
Chewans, 253; information obtained by, re- 
specting the ownership of Lew Chew, 255; 
his opinion on the mixed origin of the Lew 
Chewans, 256 ; leaves Napha for Japan, 261 ; 
prepares for action on entering the bay of 
Yedo, 265; forbids the Japanese to visit the 
squadron at Japan, 267; prevents the Ja- 
panese from boarding or surrounding the 
squadron in the bay of Craga, 267 ; his recep- 
tion of the deputy governor of Uraga, 269 ; 
his policy towards the Japanese, 270; re- 
mark on a meteor, bay of Uraga, 271 ; recep- 
tion of Keyamon Tezaimen, governor of Ura- 
ga, 273 ; enforces a survey of the bay of Uraga, 
274; refuses to go to Nagasaki, 275; threat- 
ens to land at Yedo, 277 ; dispatches the Mis- 
sissippi towards Yedo, 278; his letter to the 
Emperor of Japan, 281 ; refuses to communi- 
cate with the Japanese through the Dutch or 
Chinese, refuses to go to Nagasaki, 282 ; sti- 
pulations with the governor of Uzama rela- 
tive to the delivery of the letter of the Pre- 
sident of the United States, 284, 285 ; prepa- 
rations for the delivery of the letter of the 
President of the United States, 293, 294; de- 
livery of his credentials and the letter of the 
President to the Japanese. 296; announces 
his departure and return, letters to the Em. 



618 



INDEX. 



peror of Japan, 300, 302 ; letter of credence, 
301; orders the squadron up the bay of TJra- 
ga, after the reception of the letter of the 
President, 305; insists on his right to take 
soundings in the bay of Uraga, 309 ; advances 
to within ten miles of Tedo, 311 ; presents 
American seeds, and cases of wine to the go- 
vernor of Uraga, 313; refuses presents from 
the Japanese unless they receive presents in 
return, 313 ; desirous of protecting American 
commerce in China, 315 ; his reasons for not 
waiting for a reply from the Emperor of Ja- 
pan, 315 ; names islands near the coast of Ja- 
pan, 316 ; departure from the Bay of Uraga, 
316 ; concessions obtained by, from the Ja- 
panese, 317 ; orders the Saratoga to Shanghai, 
317 ; the Plymouth to explore the shore of 
Oho-Sima, 317; negotiations at Lew Chew 
respecting intercourse with strangers, 321; 
propositions to the authorities of Lew Chew, 
321; letter to the Tsung-li-kwan of Lew 
Chew, 322 ; interview with the regent of Ka- 
pha, 323 ; directs survey of Melville harbor, 
331; instructions to Com. Kelly respecting 
Lew Chew, 331 ; his remarks on the eflfects of 
his intercourse upon the Lew Chewans, 334; 
his arrangements for the protection of Ame- 
rican commerce in China, 337 ; takes a house 
at Macao, 338 ; examines foot of a Chinese 
■woman, 341; his opinion of the laboring 
classes of China, 344; favorable opinion of 
Chinese honesty, 344; residence at Macao, 
845; proposes forming a naval station at 
Hong Kong, 347 ; his sojourn at Macao, 347; 
arrangements for the protection of American 
interests, 350 ; recognition of this service by 
the American merchants at Canton, 350 ; de- 
psi'ture from Hong Kong, 351 ; his letter to 
Sir I. Gr. Bonham respecting the Bonin isl- 
ands, 354 ; letter to the secretary of the navy, 
856; his second visit to Shui, 360; endeavors 
to obtain Japanese coins in exchange at Lew 
Chew, 360; objects accomplished by him in 
Lew Chew, 371 ; receives information of the 
death of the Emperor of Japan, 372 ; letter 
respecting the death of the Emperor of Ja- 
pan, 373; suspects the rumor to be a ruse, 
874; course contemplated by him in, case of a 
refusal by the Japanese to negotiate, 375 ; ob- 
jects of his mission to Japan, 375; return to 
the bay of Yedo, 376 ; directions for the re- 
lief of the Macedonian aground in the bay of 
Tedo, 379 ; refuses to go to Kama-kura, or to 
Uraga, 382; refuses to interrupt the explora- 
tion of the harbor of Yedo, 384; letter re- 
specting removal of the squadron to Uraga, 
885: proposes to visit Tedo, 387; letter to 
the Japanese authorities, 888; asks for wood 
and water from the Japanese, 393; refuses to 
go to Uraga, his letter on the subject, 395; 
policy adopted by, in his intercourse with 
the Japanese, 394; consents to receive the 
Emperor's letter at Toku-hama, letter of, to 



the Japanese commissioner, 395; refuses t* 
allow the men of the expedition to land in 
Japan, 396; causes screens surrounding tho 
Treaty House to be removed, 402 ; prepara- 
tions for the reception of the Emperor's let- 
ter, 403; his interview with the Japanese 
commissioners, 404; proposes the formation 
of a treaty to the tJapanese commissioners, 
notes by, handed to the Japanese commis- 
sioners, 409; reasons presented to the Ja- 
panese in favor of a treaty, 409 ; arrange- 
ments for the burial of a marine, proposes to 
purchase a burial place for Americans, in Ja- 
pan, 411; meets Japanese commissioners at 
the Treaty House, 414; his replies to the 
terms proposed for the Japanese treaty, 414 ; 
discussion of the treaty with the Japanese 
commissioners, 415; assents to the substitu- 
tion of Hakodadi for Matsmai, 426; reception 
of the presents of the Emperor of Japan, 428 ; 
presents to the Japanese, 429; presents of 
the Japanese government to, 429; remarks 
upon Japanese dogs, 429 ; examines Koyana- 
gi, a Japanese wrestler, 431 ; conversation on 
the treaty with Tenoske, 434; claims privi- 
leges for members of the expedifion, 435 ; 
dinner to the Japanese commissioners, 436 ; 
conference respecting the treaty, 439; signs 
the treaty between the United States and 
Japan, 440 ; proposes the American limits in 
Japanese ports, 441 ; presents Hyasthi with 
an American flag, 442; Japanese entertain- 
ment to, in honor of the treaty, 443 ; scope of 
his instructions, 444; circulates a Japanese 
translation of the China treaty, 447; novelty 
of his position, 447 ; notes of his conferences 
with the Japanese commissioners, 447; re- 
fuses to allow communications to pass 
through the hands of the Dutch, 445 ; his 
proposals to the Japanese respecting an Ame- 
rican Consul, 447; remark on Japanese jea- 
lousy of foreigners, 447 ; looks forward to a 
commercial treaty with Japan, 447 ; does not 
interpret the treaty as a commercial treaty, 
457 ; sends the treaty to the United States, 
458 ; his walk in the neighborhood of Kana- 
gawa, 459; his visit to a Japanese mayor, 
460 ; sails toward Tedo, 463 : his reasons for 
not visiting Tedo, 464 ; explores Webster isl- 
and, 465 ; leaves the bay of Tedo, 465 ; re- 
mark on the bay of Simoda, 466 ; lodged in a 
Buddhist temple at Simoda, 472; orders a 
survey of the harbor of Simoda, 479 ; visit to 
Kura-Kawa-Hahei, at Simoda, 482 ; his visit 
to Oho-sima, 483; remonstrance against the 
spy system, 483; declines to allow two Ja- 
panese scholars to sail with the expedition, 
486; lodged in the Eio-shen-thi, Buddhits 
temple, 489 ; sails for Hakodadi, 493 ; account 
of Japanese vessels, 420; interview with 
Matsmai Kangsayu, 534 ; visits M^itsmai Kang- 
sayu, 587; directions respecting funeral ser- 
vices, 543 ; returns to Simoda, interview with 



INDEX 



619 



Japanese commissioners, 545; suggests ap- 
pointment of pilots, Simoda, 547 ; letter re- 
specting Japanese currencies, 548 ; his course 
respecting American boundaries, Japan, 551 ; 
resists imposition at Simoda, 555 ; his course 
respecting "Sam Patch," 557; approves of 
Japanese pilots, 559; Simoda, 560; presents 
the harbor-master with a spy-glass, 560 ; re- 
mark on navigation near Kock island, 561; 
presents to the regent of Lew Chew, 569 ; 
signs treaty with Lew Chew, 569 ; parting 
entertainment by the authorities, Lew Chew, 
571 ; exertions in behalf of the Sillibaboos, 
578; directs a surgical examination of the 
Sillibaboos, 579; correspondence with Ame- 
rican merchants, China, returns home, 585 ; 
respect for, in Japan, 590. 

Perry (Mr.), his MS. journal, iv. 

Perry island, bay of Uraga, 312. 

Persimmon point, Simoda, 476. 

Perspective, Japanese knowledge of, 528. 

Petrel, Benin islands, 231. 

Phaeton, British ship of war, visit to Japan, 51. 

Phallic worship, emblems of. Lew Chew, 196. 

Physical conformity of the Japanese and Lew Chow- 
ans, 365. 

Pickering (Dr.), considers the Japanese of Malay 
origin, 11. 

Pictures, Simoda, 471. 

Pigs, sacred, at Canton, 161. 

Pi-ko, Lew Chew, 209. 

Pilotage, rates of, Simoda, 561. 

Pilots, danger of trusting entirely to, 148, 

Pine, Lew Chew, 188. 

Pines, large, Lew Chew, 204. 

Pino, Lew Chew, 190. 

Pinto, his visit to Japan, 28. 

Pipes, Japanese, 312. 

Pirate, the land crab, Benin islands, 233. 

Pirates, Chinese, on Canton river, 161. 

Plains, fertile, Benin islands, 240. 

Plymouth, the, left at Shanghai, 171. 

Point de Galle, visit to, 138. 

Polygamy non-existent in Japan, 462. 

Pontratine, Admiral, of the Portuguese navy in 
Japan, 587. 

Pope (Commander), letter respecting, Simoda, 438. 

Population of Lew Chew, origin of, 253. 

Porcelain, Japanese, 64, 527. 

Port, the United States desirous to obtain access 
to a Japanese, 298. 

Port Lloyd, Bonin islands, 232. 

the crater of an extinct volcano, 239. 

Port Louis, Mauritius, 134. 
visit to, 129. 

Portman (Mr.), Dutch interpreter, conversation of 
with a Japanese, 268. 

Portuguese, intercourse of the, with Japan, 4. 

missionaries, their information respecting Ja- 
pan, 8. 
discovery, 28. 

intercourse with Japan, 29. 
how interrupted, 31. 



Portuguese, insult the Japanese, 32. 

allies, their naval system, 34. 

attribute their expulsion to Dutch intrigues, 35, 

possession of Mascarenhas, afterwards Mauri- 
tius, 131. 

ofSt. Helena, 114. 

possession of Ceylon, 140 

possession of Macao, 164. 

in Macao, 345. 

fortifications, Macao, 346. 

Japanese restrictions upon the, 448. 
Postal service of the Japanese, 68. 
Prayer, Japanese, 545. 

Wheel, Hakodadi, 515. 
Praying machine, Japanese, 544. 
" Praying man," Japanese respect for a, 516. 
Preble, U. 8. man of war, her visit to Japan, 61. 
Preble (Lt.), survey of harbor of Kelung, 577. 
Precipices, Peel island, 238. 

Presents to the Japanese, quality of, proposed by 
Com. Perry, 107. 

of Japanese refused, 179. ^ 

from the United States to the Emperor of Ja- 
pan, 296. 

of the American Government to the Emperor 
of Japan, 313. 

policy of the expedition respecting, 318. 

law respecting, Japan, 413. 

to the Japanese, list of, 415. 

delivery of, 415. 

of the Japanese to the United States, 429. 
President of the United States, letter of the, to the 

Emperor of Japan, 276, 283. 
Price of labor in Canton, 341. 
Priests, support of, Simoda, 476. 
Priesthood, Lew Chew, 251. 
Primer, Japanese, 529. 
Prince, young of Lew Chew, 217. 
Princeton, the, unable to join the squadron, 98. 
Prisons in Japan, 23. 
Proas of Malacca, beauty of models o:^ 150. 



Queen dowager, Lew Chew, 214, 217, 221. 
Quicksilver in Japan, 76. 



Eaffles (Sir Stamford), attempts, as governor of 
Java, to oust the Dutch from Japan, 55. 
his services to Singapore, 152. 

Eailroads of the United States, known to Japanese 
officials at Uraga, 286. 

Kajah of Jahore and Singapore, 152. 

Eank indicated by dress in Lew Chew, 259. 

Eats, how served up in China, 339. 
abundance of. Lew Chew, 364. 

Eaven with a broad beak. Lew Chew, 193. 

Eazor, Japanese, 526. 

Eeceipt, the Japanese, for the letters transmitted t« 
the Emperor, 302. 

Eed eard, presentation of a, 361. 



620 



INDEX 



Redfield (W. 0.), observations on the Gulf-stream, 

496. 
Redfield rocks, near Simoda, 481. 

survey of, 56. 
Eeed and Dougherty (Messrs.), communication to 

the Governor of Hakodadi, 455. 
Reed (Mr.), his letters respecting the treatment of 

Americans at Simoda, 456. 
Regent, Lew Chew, his reception of Com. Perry, 
217. 
entertainment by the, to Com. Perry, 219. 
dignity of, proof against the effects of good li- 
quors, 249. 
new, of Lew Chew, 246. 
Religion, Simoda, 470. 
Resanoff, a Russian officer, his visit to Japan, 58. 

orders a hostile attack, 59. 
Residence, American, in Japan, 439. 
Reviews and military exercises of the expedition at 

Lew Chew, 222. 
Rhubarb, plant resembling, 537. 
Rice, Japanese customs respecting, 429. 
bearded, Lew Chew, 188. 
cultivation of, Lew Chew, 362. 
cultivation, Simoda, 467. 
fields. Lew Chew, 193. 
mills, Hongo, 477. 
Rioboo-Sintoo, a Sintoo sect, 26. 
Rio-shen-zhi, a Buddhist temple, Simoda, 473. 
Rocks, remarkable masses of, Lew Chew, 194. 

entrance of the bay of Yedo, 378. 
Rock island, Simoda harbor, 479. 

near Simoda, 561. 
Rodgers (Commander), letters to Messrs. Reed and 

Dougherty, 456. 
Roman Catholic missionaries at Lew Chew, 258. 

Japanese dislike of, 517. 
Roofs of dwellings, Simoda, 467. 
Roquemausel, Com. of the French navy, pleasant 

intercourse with, 158. 
Eosario, identity of, with Disappointment island, 

245. 
Rouge applied by Japanese women to their lips, 

460. 
Russia, apparently desirous of sharing the honors of 

the Japanese expedition, 78. 
Russian intercourse with Japan, 56. 
possessions adjacent to Japan, 56. 
advantages to her from the possession of Japan, 

57. 
visit to Japan in 1853, 78. 
temporary possession of the Bonin islands, 230. 
expedition to Nagasaki, 426. 
treaty with Japan similar to the American, 452. 
expedition at Simoda, 587. 
Russians, intercourse of the, with Japan, 4. 



S 



Baboroske, impertinent curiosity of, on board the 

Susquehanna, 307. 
Baddies islands, near Shanghai, 172. 



Sagani, Cape, 265. 
shores of, 266. 
Sago palm. Peel island, 235. 
Sail-boats, Lew Chew, 203. 
Sailing directions for Simoda, 48. 
Sailing fish of Singapore, 155. 
Sailing observations, 264, 317. 
Sailor epitaph, Japan, 545. — 
Sailors of the expedition, misconduct of three of, at 

Lew Chew, 567. 
Sakee, 218. 

Sakee, Lew Chew, 368. 
Saki, Lew Chew, 250. 
Saki, 444, 460. 

Saltness of sea waters. Lew Chew, 200. 
Salute Chinese, three guns, 169. 
" Sam Patch," a Japanese, 396. 

before the Japanese officials, 398. 
the Japanese, 557. 
Samuns, the, teachers in Lew Chew, 256. 
Sandwich islands, expedition to the Bonin islands 
from, 250. 
islanders on the Bonin islands, 234. 
Sangar, Straits of, fogs about, 497. 
Straits of, navigation of, 498. 
Sau Kokp Tsoir Kan To Sits, a Japanese writer, 

account of the Bonin Islands, 227. 
Santa Mesa, Philippine islands, murder of an Ame- 
rican at, 577. 
Saris (John), an English sea captain visits Japan, 45. 
has an interview with the Emperor, 45. 
visit to Japan in 1613, 429. 
Satskasi, the rainy season of Japan, 9. 
Satzuma, Prince of, Lew Chew, a dependency of, 
175. 
Japanese Prince of, his revenue, 377. 
Savory (Nathaniel), an American resident at the 
Bonin islands, 230. 
robbed by sailors under the American flag, 251. 
an early settler of the Bonin islands, 354. 
Sakya-Sinha, founder of Buddhism, 26. 
Scientific knowledge of the Japanese, 6S. 

men not of the navy, applications of to join the 
expedition declined, 99. 
Scott (Mr.), his intercourse with the Lew Chewan&, 

223. 
Screens of cloth set up as mock fortifications by tLo 
Japanese, 272. 
painted cloth, Japanese, 291, 308. 
Scribe, Japanese, 405. 
Sculling Japanese, 521. 
Sculls and oars, 391. 
Sculpture, Japanese, 530. 
Simoda, 471, 473, 475. 
Scurvy in Yedo, 524. 
Sea weeds of the Kuro-siwa, 497, 
Sedan chair of Com. Perry, 215. 
Sedgewick (Mr.), a writer on hurricanes, 137. 
Senmimar, founder of a fraternity of the Japanese 

clergy, 25. 
Sirofama, Cape, 494. 
Serpents of Ceylon, 148. 
Shah baj--. Lew Chew, coal at, 861. 



INDEX 



621 



Shanghai, visit to, 169. 

Com. Perry on commercial importance ofi 243. 
Shang Hung Hiun, new regent of Lew Chew, 247, 
249. 

regent of Lew Chew, 326. 
Shang-Ta-Tmu, regent of Lew Chew, letter of to 

Com. Perry, 1S4 
Sharks, taken by dogs, Bonin islands, 232. 
Sheude, capital of Lew Chew, 1S8. 
Shiomis-zhi, a Buddist temple, Hakodadi, 513. 
Ship yards, Hakodadi, 526. 
Shipwrecked sailors, American, in Japan, 445. 
Shira-hama. Simoda, 476. 
Shirasawaki, near Hakodadi, 519. 
Shoes, Japanese, of straw, 65. 
Sho-Ho-TcS or Chess, 533. 
Shops, Simoda, 46S. 
Shrines, Simoda, 46S. 

of temples, Simoda, 470. 

roadside, Hakodadi, frequent genuflexions at, 

516. 
Shrubs, new varieties of, Lew Cbew, 193. 
Shui, an " University " at, 256. 
Shunteen dynasty of rulers of Lew Chew, 253. 
Shutters, Simoda, 468. 

Siamese naval commander visits Com. Perry, 145. 
Sida, or Indian gooseberry. Peel island, 236. 
Siebold, a writer on Japan, 4, 8. 

his comparison of the language of Japan vrith. 
that of the adjacent shores, 12. 

remark on the Sintoo worship, 24. 

remarks on Japanese teas, 66. 

his opinion of the Japanese expedition, 78. 

story of his banishment from Japan, 88. 

desirous of joining the Japan expedition, 90. 

bis pamphlet, 90. 

letter to an official of the Japan expedition, 90. 

remark on Gutzlafif and Forcade, missioaaries, 
9L 

account of Oho-sima, or Tatao, 263. 

inaccuracy of his map of the bay of Yedo, 379. 

accounts of whale ships, Japan, 523. 

on Japanese mining, 554. 
Signs of shops, Simoda, 468. 
Sikai, or " ten counsels of Buddhism," 26. 
Silks, Japanese, 312, 527. 

woven by criminals, 65. 
Sillibaboos, picked up at sea by the Southampton, 
578. 

surgical examination of the, 579. 

left to be sent home from Manilla, 580. 
Silver, abundant in Japan, 76. 
Simoda, opened to trade by the United States, 88. 

discussion relative to opening the port of, 424. 

approval of as an American port, 440. 

Japanese proclamation to the Americans at, 
455. 

Japan, 465. 

beauty of the environs of; 666. 

its antiquity, 467. 

docks, streets, sewers, houses, shops, 467. 

officials, baths, diet, vegetables, 469. 

rice, religion, temples, monasteries, 470. 



Simoda, shrines, sculpture, pictures, demons, grave- 
yards, 471. 

festivals, " Mariners' Temple," 475. 

environs of, 476. 

its topographical characteristics, 478. 

government of, 478. 

harbor of, 479. 

Com. Perry's return to, 546. 

regulations respecting American vessels at, 560. 

earthquake at, 587. 

harbor unaffected by the, 589. 
Simpson (Alex.), letter respecting the Bonin isl- 
ands, 354. 
Sinagawa, harbor of Yedo, 311. 

a suburb of Yedo, 401. 
Singapore, visit to, 150. 
Sintoo, religion of Japan, 24. 

its deities, idols, temples, 24. 

priests, question of their marriage, 25. 

pilgrimages, 25. 

duties, 25. 

festival services, 25, 

sects, 26. 

temple, Simoda, 470. 

shrine, Simoda, 471. 
Sira-hama, bay of, near Simoda, 476. 
Sirija Saki, Nippon, 498. 

Sirocco, the, compared with the Harmattan, 112. 
Sitkokf, an island of Japan, 7. 
Siutoo, a Japanese belief, its rules, 24 
Slave, value of a Lew Chewan, 259. 
Slavery, sj^stem of in Lew Chew, 259. 
Sledges, carriages drawn on, at Funchal, 105. 
Smith (Sir Thomas), licensed as governor of the 
East India Company to trade with the Ja- 
panese, 43. 
Society in China, 345. 
Socks, Japanese, 404. 
Sorghum, or millet. Lew Chew, 196. 
Sotowra, near Simoda, 476. 
Soundings, bay of Uraga, 266. 
Southampton rock, near Simoda, 481. 
South east bay. Peel island, 238. 
Sovereignty of the Bonin islands, 245. 
Sowas. a metal made by the Japanese, 63. 
Spaniards, intercourse of the, with Japan, 4. 
Spaniel, an English species of, possibly introduced 

from Japan, 429. 
Spars, purchase of at Simoda, 555. 
Spectacles, Japanese, 529. 

Speiden (W.), purser, report on Japanese curren- 
cies, 548. 
Sphynx, H. B. M. ship, visit to Napha, Lew Chew, 

246. 
Spies, 222, 251, 489. 

at Lew Chew, 181, 184, 196, 201, 251, 259, 328. 

in the bay of Uraga, 271. 

vigilance of, relaxed at Lew Chew, 333. 

bad effects of the system of, 334. 

Japanese, 381, 405, 413. 

follow American officers in Japan-, 483. 
Springs, Peel island, brackish, 240. 
Squadron, disposition of for the return voyage, 565. 



622 



INDEX. 



St Gevan, shipwreck of the French vessel, the 
foundation of the story of Paul and Virgi- 
nia, 135. 
Spooner (Mr.), hospitality of, 163. 
8t. Helena, visit of the expedition to, 114. 

military strength of, 117. 

greediness for money of the people of, 117. 
St. Pierre, Bernardin, 135. 

St. Thomas, said to have preached in Ceylon, 145. 
Standards, Japanese, 292. 
Stapleton island, Bonin islands, goats on, 233. 
Steam engine, astonishment of the Japanese at, 180- 

not unknown to the Japanese, 287. 
Steel, Hakodadi, 526. 

Stirling (Admiral), makes a treaty with Japan, 79. 
Stone worked by Japanese, 465. 
Storms off the Cape of Good Hope, 128. 
Streets of Simoda guarded by gates, 467. 
Styx, H. B. M. steamer, 128. 
Subscription list in a Sintoo temple, 474. 
Sugar cane, Lew Chew, 363. 
Sugar crop at Mauritius, 133. 
Sugar loaf island, Lew Chew, 203. 
Sugar mills. Lew Chew, 364. 
Sugar, use of Lew Chew, 364. 
Sulphur in Japan, 76. 

spring, Peel island, 240. 
Sunday, observance of by the expedition, 276. 
Supplies for whale ships at the Bonin islands, 232. 

for American ships in Japan, 413. 

cost of, Simoda, 555. 
Supply rock, near Simoda, 481. 
Supply, the, nearly wrecked, 167. 
Suraga-no-kami, Japanese commissioner, 546. 
Surro-kubp, or Cape Blunt, 498. 
Survey of the bay of Uraga, 275, 277, 310, 311 

ofYedo, 384. 

signals for the, 413. 

of Volcano bay, Endermo harbor, 537. 
Surveys, Kelung, 577. 

of the Japanese harbors, copies of the, present- 
ed to the Japanese government, 408. 
Susaki, Simoda, 476. 

Cape, 494. 
Susquehanna bay, Japan, 311. 
Swell from the N. W. at sea, 109. 
Swords, Japanese, 287, 526. 
Syakfdo, a species of enamel work, 75. 



T 



Table bay, visit to, 121. 

Table cloth, a cloud on Table Mountain, 122. 

Table Mountain, 122. 

Tailoresses, street, China, 340. 

Takahasi, his connection with Siebold, 89. 

Take-no-uchistaro, Japanese commissioner, 547. 

Talipot, tree of Ceylon, 142. 

Tanka boats, 344. 

boat girls, 344. 

at Macao, 163. 
Taontae, commander-in-chief of Chinese fleet, 582. 



Taontai, or governor of Shanghai, 169. 
Taro plant, Peel island, 240. 
Tatao, one of the Lew Chew islands, 263. 
Tatznoske, Japanese interpreter, 281. 

his facility in the acquisition of languages, 286. 

his conviviality, 286; and shrewdness, 306. 
Tayko opposes the Portuguese, 33. 
Tayko-sama, his history, 15. 
Taylor (Bayard), his MS. journal, iv. 

description of Lew Chew from the sea, 177. 

joins the expedition, 175. 

account of the harbor of ISTapha by, 175. 

first landing on Lew Chew, 181. 

exploration of Peel island, 235. 
Tea and pipes served to guests in Lew Chew, 183. 

culture of, by the Japanese, 65. 

drinking, Lew Chew, 249. 
Teen- Sun, the first ruler of Lew Chew, 253. 
Teeth dying in Japan, 460. 
Telegraph, magnetic, in Japan, 415. 
Temperature at sea, near Japan, in July, 264. 

bay of Uraga, 276. 

of Simoda, 480. 
Temple at Lew Chew, visit to, 182. 
Ten Fathom Hole, Port Lloyd, Bonin islands, 232. 
Ten-sio-dai-zin, the patron divinity of Japan, 24. 
Ten-sio-dai-sin, the most sacred of Japanese 

shrines, 25. 
Testacea, Bonin islands, 233. 

Theatrical performances by sailors of the expedi- 
tion, 538. 
Thermometric range at Point de Galle, Ceylon, 140. 
Thieves, Chinese, 162. 
Thom (Dr.), a writer on hurricanes, 137. 
Thunberg, a writer on Japan, 4, 8. 

his account of Japanese rouge, 460. 
Tides in the straits of Malacca, 148. 

of Cochin China, 156. 

at Shanghai, 166. 

Napha, Lew Chew, 223. 

bay of Yedo, 317. 
Tigers, ferocity of, at Singapore, 154. 
Tima-gusho, ruins of the castle of, Napha, 828. 
Tin in Japan, 76. 
Titsingh, a writer on Japan, 4, 8. 

account of the operation of the Dosia powder, 
7L 
Toasts, drinking, in Lew Chew, 219. 
Tobacco, Peel island, 237. 

smoking, Lew Chew, 260. 
Toda-Idzu-no-Kami, Japanese commissioner, 290. 
Todo, Japanese commissioner, 296. 
Torigasaki, a Japanese village, 312. 
Tomatoes, Peel island, 240. 
Tombs, Lew Chew, 167, 168. 
Tomes (Eobert), his share in the authorship of this 

publication, iv. 
Town hall, Tumai, Lew Chew, 183. 
Trade winds, northern, boundary of. 111. 

encountered by the expedition, 112. 
Treaty between Japan and the United States, 409. 

of commerce, terms proposed by the Japanese, 
421. 



INDEX. 



623 



Treaty, Commodore Perry's replies to, 423. 

conversation between Yenoske and Com. Perry 
respecting the, 435. 

conference respecting the, 439. 

between the United States and Japan, 440. 

objects secured by the, 445. 

difficulties incident to its formation, 446. 

progress of the formation of the, 447. 

discussion as to the time when it shall go into 
effect, 449. 

patience required for its negotiation, 450. 

qualifications of the, inserted by the Japanese, 
451. 

advantages secured by, 452. 

the, sent to the United States, 458. 

ratified by the Senate, 587. 

terms of ratification of in Japan, 590. 
"Treaty house," Toku-hama, 401. 
Treaty Point, near Hakodadi, 498. 
Trees of Japan, 77. 

Trials, mode of conducting among the Japanese, 22, 
Tsuki Point, near Hakodadi, 500. 
Tunnels, natural, in the Bonin islands, 231. 
Turcomans, of Asia Minor use ladles similar to 

those of the Japanese, 181. 
Turtle, Peel island, 236. 

Green, 232. 
Turtles from the Bonin islands, 49L 
Typhoon near Formosa, 575. 
Typhoons felt at Lew Chew, 362. 
Tzudsuki, Japanese commissioner, 404. 



Udono, Japanese commissioner, 404. 
Ukona rocks, near Simoda, 481. 
Uniform, Japanese, 268, 273. 

United States Commercial agent at Point de Galle, 
Ceylon, imprisoned for debt, 139. 

correspondence of the, with Holland, relative 
to Japan, 87. 

intercourse with Japan, 60. 

expedition of 1849, 61. 

priority of their treaty with Japan, 94. 

seamen imprisoned in Japan, 61. 

forced to trample on the cross, 61. 

released, 61. 

the " Middle Kingdom," 95. 
Un-na, Lew Chew, 204. 
Uraga, Japan, 266. 

bay of, Japan, 266. 

city of, 266. 

vice-governor of, received on board the squad- 
ron, 263. 

picturesque shores of the bay of, 272. 

survey of the bay of, 308, 310. 

proposed as a place of negotiation, 381. 

discussion respecting a meeting at, 287, 402. 



Vandalia, voyage of the. to Lew Chew, : 
Vandalia blufi", Simoda harbor, 481. 



Van Twist, Duymaer, letter to Com. Perry, an- 
nouncing the death of the emperor of Japan, 
373. 
Vegetables, Simoda, 469. 
Vegetation, peculiar of the Bonin islands, 241. 

luxuriant, of the bay of Yedo, 459. 
Vessels, sea, of the Japanese, 67. 
Victoria, Hong Kong, 158. 

the English bishop of, his account of his official 
visit to Lew Chew in 1850, 255. 

remark on the writings of Confucius, 256. 

account of Dr. Bettelheim, 258. 
Village, Lew Chew, description of, 249. 
Villages, Lew Chew, 199. 

Virgin and child, image of, found in a heathen tem- 
ple in Singapore, 151. 
Vocabulary of Lew Chew and Japanese words, 866. 
Volcanic formation of Peel island, 239. 
Volcano bay, survey of, 535. 
Volcanoes, 9. 

in Endermo harbor, 535. 
Vries island, or Oo-sima, bay of Tedo, 265. 

Japan, 316. 
Vulcan island, Japan, 316. 



"W 



"Wages of laborers, Lew Chew, 252. 

"Walls of coral in Lew Chew, 178. 

"Whampoa river, 162. 

"Wardenaar, his connection with, the expedition of 

Baffles, 54, 
Washington George, remark of Lew Chew official 
on, 183. 

" very great mandarin," 219. 

known to the Japanese, 287. 

styled the great mandarin at Lew Chew, 571. 

monument, Japanese stone for, 556. 

stone contributed to from Lew Chew, 571. 
"Washington's birthday, celebration of by the Am. 

squadron in Japan, 389, 390. 
"Water bufi'alo, of Singapore, 155. 
"Wax plant. Lew Chew, 194. 
"Webster island, Japan, 466. 
"Whale ships, supplies for, Bonin islands, 243. 

fishery off Japan, opened by the treaty, 243. 

fishers, protection to shipwrecked, demanded 
of the Japanese, 298. 
"Whaling depot, Hakodadi, 523. 
"Whampoa, a Chinese merchant at Singapore, his 
hospitality, 102. 

anchorage at, 159. 

pagoda, 159. 
"Williams ("Wells), interpreter, 177. 
Wind, direction of. 111. 
Winds, encountered off the Cape, and in the Indian 

ocean, 127. 
Winter, severity of, Japan, 398. 
Women, seclusion of the Lew Chew, 221. 

industry of Lew Chew, 251. 

position of. Lew Chew, dress, 367. 

foreign, not wanted in Japan, 451. 



624 



INDEX. 



"Women, American at Simoda, 454. 

driven away on approacli of Com. Perry, 459. 

Japanese, visited by Com. Perry, 460. 

work in the fields, 461. 

social position of in Japan, 462. 
"Wood dense, Lew Chew, 302. 
"Wood-cuts, Japanese, 529. 
"Woosung, village of, 16T. 

"Wives, importance of the number of, in China, 345. 
"Woven fabrics of the Japanese, 65. 
"Wrecks of American vessels, Japan, communication 

respecting, 539. 
"Wrestlers, Japanese, 431, 483. 

Japanese drawings of, 529. 
Wrestling match, Japanese, 432. 
Writing, hand, Lew Chew, 257. 



Xavier, his mission in Japan, 31. 

establishes Christianity in Ceylon, 145. 



Tang-tse-Keang river, 166. 
Yedo, 8, 9. 

town observed on the bay of, 278. 

plan of, shown to Japanese oflScials, 290. 

port of, in sight, 311. 

advantages of the survey of the bay of, 318. 

shores of the bay of, in winter, 379. 

bay of, 380. 

Japanese refuse to receive the expedition at, 
393. 

bells of, heard by the American expedition, 392. 

surveying boats of the expedition approach 
within four miles of, 395. 

populousness of the bay of, 400. 

an American officer on his way to, 419. 

glimpse of, through a fog, 463. 

Com. Perry's reasons for not visiting, 464. 

scurvy, Ainos, 524. 
f enoske, an interpreter, 405, 482. 

Japanese interpreter, 418. 



Tenoske, reply to the letter of the President of 
the United States, 40T. 
visits Com. Perry, 434. 
duplicity of, 459. 
readiness to assume blame, 556. 
his farewell visit to Com. Perry, 557. 
Yezaimen, Keyamon, governor of Uraga, visits 
Com. Perry, 273. 
his second visit, 281. 
his third visit to Com. Perry, 282. 
bearer of a letter from the emperor of Japan to 

Com. Perry, 288. 
visit to the Susquehanna on the day of the re- 
ception of the letter of the president, 293. 
conversation with Capt. Buchanan, 306. 
his examination of the engine of the Susque- 
hanna wHen in motion, 307. 
Ms visit of expostulation on the advance of the 

squadron, 309. 
his appreciation of good cheer, 310. 
brings presents to Com. Perry, 313. 
his friendliness, 313. 
parting health to the Americans, 314. 
Tezaiman, governor of Uraga, visits the squadron, 
392. 
visits the Powhatan, 396. 
takes charge of a letter from " Sam Patch " of 

Japan, 396. 
conversation with Captain Adams, 397. 
makes arrangements for the delivery of the 
emperor's letter, 398. 
Tokuhama, Japan, 401. 
Tomi, the pure Japanese dialect, 10. 
Yoritinis, his history, 25. 
Tuitz, a Sintoo sect, 26. 



Zhetsa-zhi, a Buddhist monastery, Hakodadi, 512. 
Zhiogen-zhi, a Buddhist temple, Hakodadi, 513. 
Zhi-zo-bogats, a Japanese deity, 475. 
Zimzoons, or temporal sovereigns of Japan, 14, 19. 
Zin-mu-ten-woo, the fotmder of the Japanese sov^ 

reignty, 13. 
Ziogoon, how dethroned, 15. 
Zipangu, 5. 



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